PASSAGE REPORT TO PANAMA FROM COLUMBIA:

with Check-In Procedure at El Porvenir

Recently, SV ATARAXIA sailed from northern Columbia to Panama.  They wanted to visit a very unique and special part of Panama: the Guna Yala Archipelago, also known as the San Blas Islands before.  The Archipelago is in northeastern Panamanian waters and is home to the Guna (or Kuna) Yala people, the largest Panamanian indigenous group.  The archipelago is known for being a jewel of Panama with palm covered islands amid clear turquoise water.

SV ATARAXIA wanted to visit this archipelago upon entering Panamanian waters pushing on to the more formal and bustling city of Colon on Panama’s mainland, at the northern end of the Panama Canal.  Below Skipper Ludwig shares from his passage notes their experience entering Panama through El Porvenir:

Well, we were right : you should have come. Guna Yala is really beautiful.

We left Cartagena de Indias, Colombia 2 days ago and last night was a pretty calm night. We sailed under main alone and we still were making good enough speed that we had to turn a circle at sea before entering El Porvenir, allowing us to come in during daylight.

We anchored and went ashore to ask where immigration was. El Porvenir is in fact just 1 airstrip for small planes and that explains why there is immigration. But first you need to visit the Comarca Guna Yala congresso office to pay to the indigenous people that own these islands for a ‘cruising permit’, something like an entry fee for paradise. Then it is on to the immigration office. Given there are only 2 buildings or rather structures, it wasn’t all that difficult to find even if you hadn’t slept much the previous night.

When it was finally our turn to be cleared in, all we needed was some extra photocopies (conveniently available at the congresso for 50 cts) and we got our immigration stamps. What about customs? “Go and do that in Colon” we were told. OK, nothing can be perfect not even in paradise.

Noonsite says that you can clear immigration in El Porvenir, and indeed they do. They stamp both your passport and your exit zarpe from Colombia. It looks like a stamp is the only thing they have, so they do not produce any paper, they just….stamp. We had our agent, Erick Galvez request a cruising permit for us beforehand. In fact, we set that in motion a month before arriving in Panama. It still wasn’t ready when we got to El Porvenir, an unusual slow process that has since (we were there early June 2024) been sped up. Either way, we were assured by every instance be it official or non-official that our immigration stamps were really the critical ones and we had those!  We received our cruising permit while we were back in the USA and our boat on the hard. While this sounds ‘different’ from other places, to the Panamanians it seemed pretty obvious. And every single official was friendly, …and so were we.

While we were anchoring at first light, 2 canoes with Guna women were paddling towards us. We had some trouble finding the right spot to anchor and so these ladies had their rowing workout cut out for them, chasing ATARAXIA.

It is not my preferred thing to do, bartering over molas or other stuff after being awake for half a night, but it was clear these ladies were not going to give up, so we have some very nice molas already to fly home with us.

Then we moved the boat to Lemon Cays, one of these smaller archipelagoes where all the islands end in ‘dup’ (Bandup, Nuriandup or some other tongue twister). Upon arrival we were greeted by a canoe with 3 fishermen who held up a lobster in the international language of trade. We signaled to hold off a bit so that we could anchor but once that was out of the way, we bought 4 lobster for 5USD per piece. We didn’t even try to get a lower price. With that, you know what Louis, our crew-chef is working on right now.

Time for the restless to go and explore the underwater world and they came back with all the wonderful things they saw including a shark (a real one, not a nurse shark). While they were doing that, I stayed back to defend the fort, hey someone got to do it, and sure enough we were invaded by a clever bird that flew into the cabin, picked open the plastic packaging of a baguette and decided those baguettes are really good. I agreed and therefore I chased him away. We want to eat that baguette (at least the other part of it).

We intend to stay 2 nights here in this anchorage as there is a lot more to explore.

SV ATARAXIA  Ludwig – Etap Yachting 46’

 

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE LUDWIG!