DISCOVERING MAKATEA 
THE WORLD’S TALLEST ATOLL
By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND
The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon. Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide. Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon. The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day. The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small. On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.
While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift. 40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea. This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited. Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level. Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level. While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs. The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.
Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa. It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt. We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.
On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor. The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain. Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available. With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef. We marveled at the scene. While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea. WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore. It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore. Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring. (Thank you Captain!).
The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores. A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region. A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens. A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.
Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea. The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks. There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.
It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits. Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s. The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s. Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea. The mining industry was quickly established. Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site. Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island. According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory. At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”
And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind. During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated. An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts. People came and people went. Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were. The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart. Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.
A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment. The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished. One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.
While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat. It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast. Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination. Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special. There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking. The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.
Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade. This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018. The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet. We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line. We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim and deeply refreshing cooldown. I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.
The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea. His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well. He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era. Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit. I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.
The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018. Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in. The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future. May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island. So far, it looks good!
Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea – Alajeula 48′
