NAWI ISLAND 🇫🇯 SPONSORS THE OCEAN POSSE
NAWI ISLAND 🇫🇯 SPONSORS THE OCEAN POSSE
16° 46.566’S 179° 20.1’E
BULA !
Nawi Marina is proud to sponsor the Ocean Posse with discounted rates!
AMENITIES & SERVICES
MARINA
- 132 fully serviced berths
- 21 dedicated superyacht berths for vessels up to 85m
- 2m to 5.4m draft at mean sea level (msl).
- 16amps 3 phase from April 2023 and this will increase up to 250-300amps 3 phase from Dec 2023
- Fresh Water, Fuel & Gas facilities
- Sewer pump out facility by June 2023
- Garbage Disposal services
- High speed wireless internet
- 24/7 cctv security services with controlled marina gate access
- Restaurant & Bar
- Harbour Master Building
- Yacht Agency and authority clearance services
- Chandlery
- Grocery Store
- Restrooms, showers & laundry
- ATM
- Retail & Kiosk services
BALAGA BOATYARD FACILITIES *
- Cyclone pits and storage bays
- Maintenance Shed & Back of House Area
- Haul out facility (75tonne)
- Boat ramp
- Fueling pontoon
- Wash Bay
- Engineering and welding workshop
- Paint and antifouling workshop
- Open maintenance areas for catamarans
- Office, restroom and outdoor lounge area with parking
*BALAGA BOATYARD FACILITIES
CONTACT
E: marketing@nawiisland.com
P: +679 893 1082
W: nawiisland.com
FB: facebook.com/nawiFiji
I: https://www.instagram.com/nawi.island
A: PO Box 101, Lot 12, Nawi Island, Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji Islands
RATES
FJD x Meter x Day
Live Aboard Rate 7.50 per day
Electricity Metered
Water Included in Berth Fee -but please conserve
* All rates are per lineal meter defined by LOA (other than Moorings)
* All prices inclusive of 9% Government Taxes
* All berthing to be paid in advance
* Free WIFI included in berthing – conditions apply
* Other marina services will have separate fees & charges
LOCATION
OFFICIAL WEBSITE >>
TO STOP OR NOT TO STOP IN THE GALAPAGOS?
TO STOP OR NOT TO STOP
IN THE GALAPAGOS?
The Galapagos is undeniably on many a cruisers bucket list. However, depending on ones drive, timeline, and/or cruising budget, the in's and outs of navigating the entry requirements and fees can be anywhere from reasonable and attainable to impractical and impossible. Every year Ocean Posse boats are crossing the Pacific Ocean. Some boats plan a stop in the Galapagos, some boats make an emergency stop, while others still pass by en route to the Southern Pacific Islands further west. Erick and Jennifer from SV WINDSONG are among the fleet that planned their stop, made it happen, and adventured through the Galapagos. Here they share their experience getting the approval to stop, the real fees they incurred, and their adventures during their stay. Please Note: regulations and requirements change often so the exact requirements today may be slightly different. Resources are provided to get up to date information.
ERICK REPORTS:
As sailors begin to prepare their journey from the Americas to the South Pacific, the decision on whether or not to stop at the Galapagos islands looms for many. For most cruisers, the choice boils down to three factors: the activities and attractions in the islands, the cost of entry, and the hassle for cruisers to prepare and visit the islands. When my wife and I began our sail to the South Pacific from Panama in early 2023, we were enticed by the Galapagos and had ultimately decided to make the stop. We had no regrets, in fact, it was one of our favorite places we have ever been to. I hope this article gives readers a better understanding about the positives and negatives concerning the Galapagos stop, or at least give the readers better insight before making their decision.
Ocean Posse members work with Yacht Agents Galapagos: (/yachtagentsgalapagos.com) to handle all of the clearance and entry requirements. Agents are required for visiting yachts, and we were very happy working with Javier and his crew. For details and specific information regarding many of the requirements, costs, activities, restrictions and opportunities for cruising yachts, visit their website.
The very first factor cruisers should consider is why they should or shouldn’t stop in the Galapagos at all. For us, the islands hosted a wide array of incredible experiences that we couldn’t pass up. We were always enticed by the natural wonders of the islands, mostly as animal lovers and the opportunity to come face-to-face with unique and intense creatures. From the very moment you arrive at San Cristobal to clear in, you are greeted by the sea lions frolicking around the anchorage, audible with their distinctive barks. Many will be seen sleeping alone or in groups on unattended local boats, or even on some unprepared cruising yachts. We found them hilarious and endlessly entertaining. Other boats found them to be loud, stinky, obnoxious and more of a hassle. Aside from the sea lions, the islands offer wild experiences encountering sea turtles, giant land tortoises, a variety of unique birds, penguins and more! Our first warning here is: if you are not at all interested in animal encounters, you may not want to consider the Galapagos.
The islands offer a wide array of activities for many different interests and budgets. Many will enjoy world class scuba diving with abundant sea life that is rarely rivaled in the world; others will want to experience as much of the diverse landscapes such as the various volcanoes through hikes and tours, along with the intimate animal encounters wherever you go. A little known secret of the Galapagos islands is the world class surfing to be had for all ability levels. The exceptional and uncrowded surf breaks were the icing on the cake for us and our visit. While cruising between islands in the Galapagos, we experienced the most consistent and exciting offshore fishing on our entire cruise between Florida and Fiji. We had more tuna and mahi mahi than we knew what to do with, and made some life-long friends on other boats by sharing our catch.
When considering the long passage from the Americas to French Polynesia, the Galapagos islands seem like a nice stop along the way, particularly after the often frustrating slog through the doldrums. However, if the activities and abundant wildlife do not sound like something you are seriously interested in discovering, then I would suggest possibly skipping the Galapagos. Many cruisers we have heard of who chose to enter just for a convenient stop, rest and refuel are often the ones who will speak poorly of the experience. Many do not appreciate the frisky sea lions trying to board their vessel, find the cost of entry too much for just a convenient stop, and the entry requirements an extreme hassle.
If the wildlife and activities sound like a great idea to you, the next consideration would be the cost of entry. We knew this was a bucket-list item for us, and we would forever regret sailing past the islands. However, we are a low-budget boat, so we saved and trimmed other expenses to specifically afford the trip to the Galapagos. The fully loaded cost for entry for our vessel with 2 people was $2,277.60, including the Pacific Posse discount. The details of each cost are shown in the invoice image below. Certain costs scale by the amount of people on each boat, and the type of permit you seek for cruising. Please be mindful these costs were for our visit in March 2023, prices are subject to change.
Beyond the cost of entry, the cost of staying in the islands should be considered. We spent our full 30 day stay included in our fees, maximizing our time and value for the cost. By being able to stay on our own boat, we ultimately saved money for a comparable month-long stay by flying in and paying for lodging, food without our own kitchen, travel between islands, etc. Once in the islands, cost of living is not expensive especially compared to places down the line such as French Polynesia. Budget eating is easily accomplished, with delicious $5 USD Ecuadorian lunch specials that typically include a hearty stew, filling entree and fresh juice. Combined with the decently priced fresh produce, one can eat well on a budget with the boat’s galley available. There are also restaurants and bars for every other budget, including some great fine dining.
While in the islands, your activities can be tailored to your budget. We aimed to avoid costly tours as much as we could; opting to entertain ourselves with self-guided hikes, snorkeling from shore, walking to or taking cheap taxis (land and water) to different surf breaks, renting bikes to get around instead of cars, etc. Scuba diving and many of the more extensive tours will cost extra, as well as trips to the remote islands where cruising yachts do not have access.
The final consideration for stopping in the Galapagos for many cruising yachts is the hassle of entry. The requirements for entry are described on Yacht Agents Galapagos’ website, and their agents made the process easy to follow with checklists and frequent communication every step of the way. We can only speak of our experience preparing for the trip from Panama, where not only did Yacht Agents Galapagos make our lives easy, but also Ocean Posse Panama Canal agent Erick Galvez from Centenario Consulting. Erick offered extremely valuable services by arranging for many of the pre-trip requirements including the required bottom cleaning and fumigation certificates, as well as full service exit clearance help with the customs and immigration in Panama City. We had the benefit of beginning preparation many weeks ahead of our departure. If your schedule is very tight from transiting Panama or other ports to the Galapagos, then the hassle of preparation might be too much.
Beyond the preparation, the arrival procedures for the Galapagos islands can seem overwhelming, another potential turn-off for some cruisers. We first arrived at San Cristobal, the traditional check-in port for cruisers, and were greeted by a boat with divers who inspected our hull bottom before we anchored. We had stopped one day out from arrival in calm seas to give our hull one last cleaning, which we found necessary as some small barnacles had grown on our passage from Panama. If the boat bottom has growth, the officials will require you to sail far offshore and have a professional clean your boat before arriving. The divers found our work to be satisfactory, and had us proceed into the anchorage to await the clearance formalities.
After a brief wait at anchor, a boat arrived with an impressive amount of people from various sectors of the government, including our agent’s crew to aid with the process. We have a smallish boat, and have never hosted large gatherings before. The 10 people who came to our boat represented the most people we have ever had on our boat at one time! While overwhelming, we found the process was not overburdensome nor too intrusive. We were well prepared for the process and what would be inspected thanks to the checklists and instructions provided by the yacht agents, and after about 30 minutes we had all of our clearances and were prepared to enjoy the islands.
In summary, each yacht has different aims in what they want from their cruising adventure. If the unique natural environment, animals and world class activities available in the islands appeal to you; consider the cost and potential hassle of entry. If each consideration passes your muster, begin preparation as soon as possible by contacting Yacht Agents Galapagos and get the ball rolling. Like us, you may find that this stop becomes one of the most amazing parts of your entire cruise and an unforgettable experience.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE!
SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸 Erick & Jennifer - Downeaster Cutter 38′
Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish Across the Oceans
Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish
Across the Oceans
People living coastally or on islands are deeply connected to the ocean for their sustenance. Eating raw fish is common across many cultures around the globe, each with its own unique traditions and methods for preparing and enjoying this delicacy. Here are several different ways raw fish is eaten as a main dish across the Oceans that the Ocean Posse cruises:
1. Ceviche (Latin America)
Ceviche has it’s roots in the northwestern region of South America that are now
known as Ecuador and Peru. Overtime the dish has spread throughout Central America with each country, each region, each family adding their own touch of individuality. Ceviche is the result of fish (often Mahi mahi, snapper, or corvina) and/or other seafood (for example shrimp, conch, or Octopus) being submerged in salt and lime juice. The chemical process that occurs is similar to fish getting ‘cooked’ in which the flesh turns opaque and gets firm…although the fish is not truly cooked.
The additional ingredients, the presentation, the size, and the accompaniments vary greatly depending on where you are. For instance, along the Gold Coast in Mexico ceviche is commonly a mix of fish or mixed seafood with tomatoes, onions, jalapenos, and cilantro served on a large platter with a basket overflowing with various large corn disks called tostados. Further south, in Panama, ceviche is commonly served in small individual servings with diced onions and lots of juice and a small singular packet of crackers. Further south still to Peru, the birthplace of ceviche, raw fish is marinated in lime juice, as well as thinly sliced onion. The dish is served with sweet potato slices, small portions of toasted corn, and plantain chips. They are all DELICIOUS ….just different….and sampling ceviche along the route is highly recommended.
2. Poisson Cru (Polynesian and South Pacific Islands)
The name poisson cru literally translates to "raw fish" in French. For many centuries native Polynesians and people of the South Pacific Islands were harvesting reef fish and pelagic fish and coconuts as a mainstay of their diet. The preparation was once as simple as pouring fresh squeezed coconut milk over raw fish and has evolved to include lime juice after the Europeans introduced citron (limes). Poisson Cru has a distinctive flavor and texture that is generally more mild that ceviche. While it is sometimes compared to ceviche due to the use of raw fish and citrus juice, poisson cru has its own unique preparation and cultural significance. Poisson Cru is often served with or over rice or taro with cucumbers and/or tomatoes. Seasonal and regional twists include adding fruits like mango or papaya or other vegetables like carrots or avocados. Salt and Pepper may be added for flavor.
Poisson Cru is made at home, during celebrations, and often served at communal gatherings or feasts. It is considered a symbol of hospitality and represents a longstanding connection to the sea. The preparation and sharing of poisson cru are deeply embedded in the social fabric of Polynesian life.
Overall, poisson cru is more mild and creamy while ceviche is more tangy and snappy. Both are fresh, crunchy, and scrumptious.
3. Poke (Hawaiian Islands)
The word 'poke' (like 'okay') was a Hawaiian word that meant 'to cut crosswise into pieces'. The dish that has taken on the name Poke is one that stems from one of the staple foods of the early Polynesian people of Hawaii. The early Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands lived off the sea. It is said they often cut crosswise and salted raw reef fish cutoffs and seasoned this with seaweed and roasted kokui nuts. Over time, after the arrival of people from the continents to the east and the west, this staple food began to evolve and take on tastes and flavors from both sides of the ocean. For example in the late 19th century many Japanese workers immigrated to Hawaii as sugar and pineapple plantation laborers. Instead of using salt and seaweed to season their raw fish they used shoyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil. They would eat this fish with white rice. In this way, some say that the Japanese immigrants also introduced the rice base to the modern day Poke. Westerners are said to have introduces spices, onions, and chili peppers. Poke of today is a serious fusion of flavor traditions that appeals to the culinary tastes across many cultures. While the dish has evolved greatly and spread far from Hawaii, Poke is still known as an adaptable delicious Hawaiian dish. Poke can be savory and sweet, spicy or mild. The fish is still marinated in a salty medium with seaweed is often served in bowl over rice with an added assortment of fresh, thinly cut colorful vegetables, fruit, and roasted nuts.
4. Pickled Herring (Northern Europe)
Pickling as a preservation method for fish has been around for over two millennia, and herring, being one of the most abundant fish in European waters, was an ideal candidate for pickling. The process of pickling, which involves immersing fish in a brine or vinegar solution, allowed people to preserve the catch for long periods, particularly in the colder months when fresh fish was scarce.
The earliest records of pickled fish date back to the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks were known to use vinegar and salt to preserve fish, and Roman texts suggest that pickled herring was a common foodstuff. The Romans also had a type of fermented fish sauce called garum, which was made from fish, including herring. During the medieval period, pickled herring became essential for the European diet, especially in coastal regions and inland areas with limited access to fresh fish. The Hanseatic League, a medieval trade network of merchants in Northern Europe, played a key role in the spread of pickled herring trade, especially from the Netherlands, where herring fishing was a major industry.
Herring fishing and pickling became especially prominent in the Netherlands in the 15th and 16 century during the Dutch Golden Age. Herring from the North Sea was abundant, and the Dutch perfected the art of preserving it by salting and pickling to export it to cities across Europe. In the 1400s, Dutch fishermen discovered a method to "cure" herring by packing it in barrels with salt and vinegar, effectively preserving it for long voyages or storage. The Dutch developed the technique of "zout-haring" (salt herring), which involved using the fish's own brine and salt to preserve it. The "New" Herring: The practice of pickling herring became so widespread that the beginning of each fishing season was marked by the arrival of the new herring, which was considered a delicacy. This was especially true in places like Amsterdam, where herring was not only a common food for the lower classes but also a symbol of prosperity and trade.
Over time, pickled herring became deeply ingrained in the culinary traditions of many Northern European cultures. It was particularly important in the Nordic countries, the Baltic states, and Germany. In countries like Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, pickled herring (known as sill in Swedish) is a beloved part of the traditional holiday table. It is often served during holidays such as Midsummer, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Swedish pickled herring, or inlagd sill, is often flavored with ingredients like mustard, onions, and dill. In Germany, herring is often served with onions, apples, and mustard, and in the Netherlands, it is commonly served raw or marinated and eaten with rye bread or on a bun. Dutch herring, also known as "Hollandse Nieuwe," is particularly famous. It is a type of herring that is eaten shortly after being caught, before it has been heavily salted or pickled. It is usually served raw and dipped in onions or eaten straight from the fishmonger's stall.
By the 19th century, with the development of refrigeration and other preservation techniques, the necessity of pickling fish for preservation decreased. However, pickled herring continued to be popular as a flavorful and nostalgic food. European immigrants, particularly from Scandinavia, Germany, and the Netherlands, brought the tradition of eating pickled herring to America, especially to cities with large immigrant populations like New York. In the U.S., pickled herring became a common dish in Jewish delicatessens and is a part of Eastern European Jewish cuisine (particularly among Ashkenazi Jews), where it is often served as an appetizer with rye bread. In the 20th century, the canning of pickled herring became widespread, making it more accessible around the world. Canned herring became popular not just as a snack but as a component of many ready-to-eat meals.
Today, pickled herring continues to be enjoyed in many parts of the world, from Scandinavia to Germany, and it remains an important part of traditional meals. Modern variations of pickled herring can be found in many supermarkets and gourmet shops, where it may come in different flavors, including spicy, sweet, or mustard-infused varieties.
Pickled herring has evolved from an essential preservation method to a beloved culinary tradition in many Northern European and Scandinavian cultures. Its history reflects the ingenuity of people in maritime regions, who turned abundant fish into a flavorful and lasting foodstuff. Whether served raw, marinated, or in sauces, pickled herring remains a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, offering a glimpse into the cultural importance of preserving food for long-term enjoyment.
Eating raw fish is a global practice, with each culture putting its unique spin on how the fish is prepared, seasoned, and served. Whether marinated in citrus, salted and dried, or simply sliced fresh, raw fish continues to be an essential and cherished part of culinary traditions worldwide.
Minamitorishima Island, Japan
Minamitorishima Island, Japan
roughly translates to "Southern Bird Island"
By Maurisa Descheemaeker on SV WHIRLWIND
Sources: https://www.nature.com/articles/d42473-020-00525-x
https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2024/06/22/japan/science-health/tokyo-island-rare-metals-find/
https://www.t-borderislands.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/en/minamitorishima/
MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS
MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious
Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world. Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents. Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe. Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.
There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris). No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales. The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons. Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells. The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'. Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.
As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras. The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy. Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned. In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies. One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned. It's a win-win! Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.
Manta rays live up to 50 years. The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age. Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!). Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years. Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.
Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world. In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom. In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon. In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune. Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.
Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways. Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.). In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine. It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.
Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them. Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them. However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.
According to Mantatrust.org :
Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it.
....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.
Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts. People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.
If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish. Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.
SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS
IN THE END,
WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT
Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific. They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences. Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:
SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600
THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!
DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
DISCOVERING MAKATEA 
THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND
The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon. Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide. Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon. The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day. The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small. On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.
While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift. 40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea. This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited. Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level. Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level. While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs. The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.
Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa. It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt. We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.
On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor. The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain. Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available. With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef. We marveled at the scene. While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea. WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore. It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore. Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring. (Thank you Captain!).
The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores. A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region. A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens. A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.
Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea. The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks. There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.
It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits. Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s. The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s. Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea. The mining industry was quickly established. Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site. Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island. According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory. At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”
And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind. During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated. An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts. People came and people went. Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were. The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart. Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.
A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment. The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished. One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.
While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat. It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast. Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination. Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special. There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking. The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.
Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade. This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018. The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet. We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line. We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim and deeply refreshing cooldown. I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.
The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea. His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well. He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era. Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit. I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.
The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018. Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in. The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future. May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island. So far, it looks good!
Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'
PASSAGE REPORT: SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
SV VIVA SHARES PASSAGE REPORT:
SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS
POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS
☎️ Free Weekly live calls on Mondays via dedicated LINE.me group
The Ocean Posse has weekly, live, in-season calls dedicated to five different regions where posse members are cruising:
- The Pacific Americas Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The Caribbean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The Atlantic Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The Mediterranean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The South Pacific Route (In process now ending November 4th)
During the Weekly calls members join in to:
- Share any emergency or emergency relay needed
- update one another on location, any issues they may be having, or fun stuff they are doing
- Receive weather report from Captain Dietmar
- Questions people have for one another.
This weekly communication is a a little bit like a net and fulfills all the same functions.