TO STOP OR NOT TO STOP IN THE GALAPAGOS?
TO STOP OR NOT TO STOP
IN THE GALAPAGOS?
The Galapagos is undeniably on many a cruisers bucket list. However, depending on ones drive, timeline, and/or cruising budget, the in's and outs of navigating the entry requirements and fees can be anywhere from reasonable and attainable to impractical and impossible. Every year Ocean Posse boats are crossing the Pacific Ocean. Some boats plan a stop in the Galapagos, some boats make an emergency stop, while others still pass by en route to the Southern Pacific Islands further west. Erick and Jennifer from SV WINDSONG are among the fleet that planned their stop, made it happen, and adventured through the Galapagos. Here they share their experience getting the approval to stop, the real fees they incurred, and their adventures during their stay. Please Note: regulations and requirements change often so the exact requirements today may be slightly different. Resources are provided to get up to date information.
ERICK REPORTS:
As sailors begin to prepare their journey from the Americas to the South Pacific, the decision on whether or not to stop at the Galapagos islands looms for many. For most cruisers, the choice boils down to three factors: the activities and attractions in the islands, the cost of entry, and the hassle for cruisers to prepare and visit the islands. When my wife and I began our sail to the South Pacific from Panama in early 2023, we were enticed by the Galapagos and had ultimately decided to make the stop. We had no regrets, in fact, it was one of our favorite places we have ever been to. I hope this article gives readers a better understanding about the positives and negatives concerning the Galapagos stop, or at least give the readers better insight before making their decision.
Ocean Posse members work with Yacht Agents Galapagos: (/yachtagentsgalapagos.com) to handle all of the clearance and entry requirements. Agents are required for visiting yachts, and we were very happy working with Javier and his crew. For details and specific information regarding many of the requirements, costs, activities, restrictions and opportunities for cruising yachts, visit their website.
The very first factor cruisers should consider is why they should or shouldn’t stop in the Galapagos at all. For us, the islands hosted a wide array of incredible experiences that we couldn’t pass up. We were always enticed by the natural wonders of the islands, mostly as animal lovers and the opportunity to come face-to-face with unique and intense creatures. From the very moment you arrive at San Cristobal to clear in, you are greeted by the sea lions frolicking around the anchorage, audible with their distinctive barks. Many will be seen sleeping alone or in groups on unattended local boats, or even on some unprepared cruising yachts. We found them hilarious and endlessly entertaining. Other boats found them to be loud, stinky, obnoxious and more of a hassle. Aside from the sea lions, the islands offer wild experiences encountering sea turtles, giant land tortoises, a variety of unique birds, penguins and more! Our first warning here is: if you are not at all interested in animal encounters, you may not want to consider the Galapagos.
The islands offer a wide array of activities for many different interests and budgets. Many will enjoy world class scuba diving with abundant sea life that is rarely rivaled in the world; others will want to experience as much of the diverse landscapes such as the various volcanoes through hikes and tours, along with the intimate animal encounters wherever you go. A little known secret of the Galapagos islands is the world class surfing to be had for all ability levels. The exceptional and uncrowded surf breaks were the icing on the cake for us and our visit. While cruising between islands in the Galapagos, we experienced the most consistent and exciting offshore fishing on our entire cruise between Florida and Fiji. We had more tuna and mahi mahi than we knew what to do with, and made some life-long friends on other boats by sharing our catch.
When considering the long passage from the Americas to French Polynesia, the Galapagos islands seem like a nice stop along the way, particularly after the often frustrating slog through the doldrums. However, if the activities and abundant wildlife do not sound like something you are seriously interested in discovering, then I would suggest possibly skipping the Galapagos. Many cruisers we have heard of who chose to enter just for a convenient stop, rest and refuel are often the ones who will speak poorly of the experience. Many do not appreciate the frisky sea lions trying to board their vessel, find the cost of entry too much for just a convenient stop, and the entry requirements an extreme hassle.
If the wildlife and activities sound like a great idea to you, the next consideration would be the cost of entry. We knew this was a bucket-list item for us, and we would forever regret sailing past the islands. However, we are a low-budget boat, so we saved and trimmed other expenses to specifically afford the trip to the Galapagos. The fully loaded cost for entry for our vessel with 2 people was $2,277.60, including the Pacific Posse discount. The details of each cost are shown in the invoice image below. Certain costs scale by the amount of people on each boat, and the type of permit you seek for cruising. Please be mindful these costs were for our visit in March 2023, prices are subject to change.
Beyond the cost of entry, the cost of staying in the islands should be considered. We spent our full 30 day stay included in our fees, maximizing our time and value for the cost. By being able to stay on our own boat, we ultimately saved money for a comparable month-long stay by flying in and paying for lodging, food without our own kitchen, travel between islands, etc. Once in the islands, cost of living is not expensive especially compared to places down the line such as French Polynesia. Budget eating is easily accomplished, with delicious $5 USD Ecuadorian lunch specials that typically include a hearty stew, filling entree and fresh juice. Combined with the decently priced fresh produce, one can eat well on a budget with the boat’s galley available. There are also restaurants and bars for every other budget, including some great fine dining.
While in the islands, your activities can be tailored to your budget. We aimed to avoid costly tours as much as we could; opting to entertain ourselves with self-guided hikes, snorkeling from shore, walking to or taking cheap taxis (land and water) to different surf breaks, renting bikes to get around instead of cars, etc. Scuba diving and many of the more extensive tours will cost extra, as well as trips to the remote islands where cruising yachts do not have access.
The final consideration for stopping in the Galapagos for many cruising yachts is the hassle of entry. The requirements for entry are described on Yacht Agents Galapagos’ website, and their agents made the process easy to follow with checklists and frequent communication every step of the way. We can only speak of our experience preparing for the trip from Panama, where not only did Yacht Agents Galapagos make our lives easy, but also Ocean Posse Panama Canal agent Erick Galvez from Centenario Consulting. Erick offered extremely valuable services by arranging for many of the pre-trip requirements including the required bottom cleaning and fumigation certificates, as well as full service exit clearance help with the customs and immigration in Panama City. We had the benefit of beginning preparation many weeks ahead of our departure. If your schedule is very tight from transiting Panama or other ports to the Galapagos, then the hassle of preparation might be too much.
Beyond the preparation, the arrival procedures for the Galapagos islands can seem overwhelming, another potential turn-off for some cruisers. We first arrived at San Cristobal, the traditional check-in port for cruisers, and were greeted by a boat with divers who inspected our hull bottom before we anchored. We had stopped one day out from arrival in calm seas to give our hull one last cleaning, which we found necessary as some small barnacles had grown on our passage from Panama. If the boat bottom has growth, the officials will require you to sail far offshore and have a professional clean your boat before arriving. The divers found our work to be satisfactory, and had us proceed into the anchorage to await the clearance formalities.
After a brief wait at anchor, a boat arrived with an impressive amount of people from various sectors of the government, including our agent’s crew to aid with the process. We have a smallish boat, and have never hosted large gatherings before. The 10 people who came to our boat represented the most people we have ever had on our boat at one time! While overwhelming, we found the process was not overburdensome nor too intrusive. We were well prepared for the process and what would be inspected thanks to the checklists and instructions provided by the yacht agents, and after about 30 minutes we had all of our clearances and were prepared to enjoy the islands.
In summary, each yacht has different aims in what they want from their cruising adventure. If the unique natural environment, animals and world class activities available in the islands appeal to you; consider the cost and potential hassle of entry. If each consideration passes your muster, begin preparation as soon as possible by contacting Yacht Agents Galapagos and get the ball rolling. Like us, you may find that this stop becomes one of the most amazing parts of your entire cruise and an unforgettable experience.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE!
SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸 Erick & Jennifer - Downeaster Cutter 38′
Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish Across the Oceans
Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish
Across the Oceans
People living coastally or on islands are deeply connected to the ocean for their sustenance. Eating raw fish is common across many cultures around the globe, each with its own unique traditions and methods for preparing and enjoying this delicacy. Here are several different ways raw fish is eaten as a main dish across the Oceans that the Ocean Posse cruises:
1. Ceviche (Latin America)
Ceviche has it’s roots in the northwestern region of South America that are now
known as Ecuador and Peru. Overtime the dish has spread throughout Central America with each country, each region, each family adding their own touch of individuality. Ceviche is the result of fish (often Mahi mahi, snapper, or corvina) and/or other seafood (for example shrimp, conch, or Octopus) being submerged in salt and lime juice. The chemical process that occurs is similar to fish getting ‘cooked’ in which the flesh turns opaque and gets firm…although the fish is not truly cooked.
The additional ingredients, the presentation, the size, and the accompaniments vary greatly depending on where you are. For instance, along the Gold Coast in Mexico ceviche is commonly a mix of fish or mixed seafood with tomatoes, onions, jalapenos, and cilantro served on a large platter with a basket overflowing with various large corn disks called tostados. Further south, in Panama, ceviche is commonly served in small individual servings with diced onions and lots of juice and a small singular packet of crackers. Further south still to Peru, the birthplace of ceviche, raw fish is marinated in lime juice, as well as thinly sliced onion. The dish is served with sweet potato slices, small portions of toasted corn, and plantain chips. They are all DELICIOUS ….just different….and sampling ceviche along the route is highly recommended.
2. Poisson Cru (Polynesian and South Pacific Islands)
The name poisson cru literally translates to "raw fish" in French. For many centuries native Polynesians and people of the South Pacific Islands were harvesting reef fish and pelagic fish and coconuts as a mainstay of their diet. The preparation was once as simple as pouring fresh squeezed coconut milk over raw fish and has evolved to include lime juice after the Europeans introduced citron (limes). Poisson Cru has a distinctive flavor and texture that is generally more mild that ceviche. While it is sometimes compared to ceviche due to the use of raw fish and citrus juice, poisson cru has its own unique preparation and cultural significance. Poisson Cru is often served with or over rice or taro with cucumbers and/or tomatoes. Seasonal and regional twists include adding fruits like mango or papaya or other vegetables like carrots or avocados. Salt and Pepper may be added for flavor.
Poisson Cru is made at home, during celebrations, and often served at communal gatherings or feasts. It is considered a symbol of hospitality and represents a longstanding connection to the sea. The preparation and sharing of poisson cru are deeply embedded in the social fabric of Polynesian life.
Overall, poisson cru is more mild and creamy while ceviche is more tangy and snappy. Both are fresh, crunchy, and scrumptious.
3. Poke (Hawaiian Islands)
The word 'poke' (like 'okay') was a Hawaiian word that meant 'to cut crosswise into pieces'. The dish that has taken on the name Poke is one that stems from one of the staple foods of the early Polynesian people of Hawaii. The early Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands lived off the sea. It is said they often cut crosswise and salted raw reef fish cutoffs and seasoned this with seaweed and roasted kokui nuts. Over time, after the arrival of people from the continents to the east and the west, this staple food began to evolve and take on tastes and flavors from both sides of the ocean. For example in the late 19th century many Japanese workers immigrated to Hawaii as sugar and pineapple plantation laborers. Instead of using salt and seaweed to season their raw fish they used shoyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil. They would eat this fish with white rice. In this way, some say that the Japanese immigrants also introduced the rice base to the modern day Poke. Westerners are said to have introduces spices, onions, and chili peppers. Poke of today is a serious fusion of flavor traditions that appeals to the culinary tastes across many cultures. While the dish has evolved greatly and spread far from Hawaii, Poke is still known as an adaptable delicious Hawaiian dish. Poke can be savory and sweet, spicy or mild. The fish is still marinated in a salty medium with seaweed is often served in bowl over rice with an added assortment of fresh, thinly cut colorful vegetables, fruit, and roasted nuts.
4. Pickled Herring (Northern Europe)
Pickling as a preservation method for fish has been around for over two millennia, and herring, being one of the most abundant fish in European waters, was an ideal candidate for pickling. The process of pickling, which involves immersing fish in a brine or vinegar solution, allowed people to preserve the catch for long periods, particularly in the colder months when fresh fish was scarce.
The earliest records of pickled fish date back to the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks were known to use vinegar and salt to preserve fish, and Roman texts suggest that pickled herring was a common foodstuff. The Romans also had a type of fermented fish sauce called garum, which was made from fish, including herring. During the medieval period, pickled herring became essential for the European diet, especially in coastal regions and inland areas with limited access to fresh fish. The Hanseatic League, a medieval trade network of merchants in Northern Europe, played a key role in the spread of pickled herring trade, especially from the Netherlands, where herring fishing was a major industry.
Herring fishing and pickling became especially prominent in the Netherlands in the 15th and 16 century during the Dutch Golden Age. Herring from the North Sea was abundant, and the Dutch perfected the art of preserving it by salting and pickling to export it to cities across Europe. In the 1400s, Dutch fishermen discovered a method to "cure" herring by packing it in barrels with salt and vinegar, effectively preserving it for long voyages or storage. The Dutch developed the technique of "zout-haring" (salt herring), which involved using the fish's own brine and salt to preserve it. The "New" Herring: The practice of pickling herring became so widespread that the beginning of each fishing season was marked by the arrival of the new herring, which was considered a delicacy. This was especially true in places like Amsterdam, where herring was not only a common food for the lower classes but also a symbol of prosperity and trade.
Over time, pickled herring became deeply ingrained in the culinary traditions of many Northern European cultures. It was particularly important in the Nordic countries, the Baltic states, and Germany. In countries like Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, pickled herring (known as sill in Swedish) is a beloved part of the traditional holiday table. It is often served during holidays such as Midsummer, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Swedish pickled herring, or inlagd sill, is often flavored with ingredients like mustard, onions, and dill. In Germany, herring is often served with onions, apples, and mustard, and in the Netherlands, it is commonly served raw or marinated and eaten with rye bread or on a bun. Dutch herring, also known as "Hollandse Nieuwe," is particularly famous. It is a type of herring that is eaten shortly after being caught, before it has been heavily salted or pickled. It is usually served raw and dipped in onions or eaten straight from the fishmonger's stall.
By the 19th century, with the development of refrigeration and other preservation techniques, the necessity of pickling fish for preservation decreased. However, pickled herring continued to be popular as a flavorful and nostalgic food. European immigrants, particularly from Scandinavia, Germany, and the Netherlands, brought the tradition of eating pickled herring to America, especially to cities with large immigrant populations like New York. In the U.S., pickled herring became a common dish in Jewish delicatessens and is a part of Eastern European Jewish cuisine (particularly among Ashkenazi Jews), where it is often served as an appetizer with rye bread. In the 20th century, the canning of pickled herring became widespread, making it more accessible around the world. Canned herring became popular not just as a snack but as a component of many ready-to-eat meals.
Today, pickled herring continues to be enjoyed in many parts of the world, from Scandinavia to Germany, and it remains an important part of traditional meals. Modern variations of pickled herring can be found in many supermarkets and gourmet shops, where it may come in different flavors, including spicy, sweet, or mustard-infused varieties.
Pickled herring has evolved from an essential preservation method to a beloved culinary tradition in many Northern European and Scandinavian cultures. Its history reflects the ingenuity of people in maritime regions, who turned abundant fish into a flavorful and lasting foodstuff. Whether served raw, marinated, or in sauces, pickled herring remains a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, offering a glimpse into the cultural importance of preserving food for long-term enjoyment.
Eating raw fish is a global practice, with each culture putting its unique spin on how the fish is prepared, seasoned, and served. Whether marinated in citrus, salted and dried, or simply sliced fresh, raw fish continues to be an essential and cherished part of culinary traditions worldwide.