SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT

with help from Russell Descheemaeker age 14

Polynesia covers a vast stretch of Pacific Ocean Islands that has a longstanding history of distinctly self-sufficient island people who spoke their own unique language that had a rich seafaring life in common.  What is known as modern day surfing once went by many different names from “Hōrue” (Tahitian for gliding on the waves) to heʻe nalu (Hawaiian for wave sliding).  While the word for the activity varied by dialect, early water sliding and gliding dates as far back as the 12th century in Polynesia.  Many believe that this water activity had religious significance and was seen as an important part of ancient Polynesian life and culture before making tis way to Hawaii where it developed and grew substantially.  Formally, surfing was recorded by Joseph Banks aboard the Endeavour during the first journey of  the famous Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1769.  

Joseph banks wrote in Captain Cook’s journal

…their chief [sic] amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out as far as the outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness. Sometimes they were carried almost ashore…”

In Tahiti and Samoa, surfing was a popular activity that was often used as part of warriors’ training.  Said warriors would often be seen by early Europeans paddling to surf breaks spending many hours bravely paddling head-on into large surf and riding waves.  Canoes often went with surfing parties and the men would often swap between canoeing and paddling boards.  

In the late 1700’s missionary’s spread the word of God through Polynesia.  Much native culture, language, and spirituality was suppressed as a direct result of contact with early missionaries.  (Side Note: The Shark God by Charles Montgomery is an interesting story tracing the history of missionaries in Polynesia)  Wave sliding was deemed a form of Devil worship and was thereby among the suppressed native activities.  However, the sport was so widespread across the Pacific Ocean that it was not fully stamped it out.  In Hawai’i, surfing had become ingrained into the very fabric of Hawaii’an religion and culture that it managed to withstand many tests through time, conflict, and diseases brought by early Europeans.  Some estimates speculate that the native population of the Hawaiian islands was about 800,000 people before European germ contact dessimated the native population to 40,000.  There were surfers among the survivors and the sport continued to entertain, interest, and connect people to the water.  In 1890, a man named Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was born.  In his lifetime, he changed the sport, restoring its popularity and fanfare.  Duke was a two time gold mettle Olympic swimmer and he loved the water.  His love was contagious.  

Duke died at the age of 77 on January 22, 1968.  The sport continued to grow and his memory and influence live on. Fast forward to the present and surfing is enjoyed by enthusiasts both recreationally as a relaxed water activity and by olympic athletes as a modern and extreme sport.

France is currently hosting the 2024 Surfing Olympics on the South side of the island of Tahiti, an island in western French Polynesia.  The world famous blue barrel wave called Teahupo’u was so big on Thursday July 29, that the surfing games are on hold until Saturday, Aug 3rd.

A very interesting graphic and description of the wave and how it is uniquely formed by off the mountainous reef fringed reef is here:

https://www.reuters.com/graphics/OLYMPICS-2024/SURFING/akpeoxnyopr/