KASTOMS IN VANUATU

Mount Yasur is a volcano on Tanna Island, Vanuatu, 1,184 ft high above sea level. It has been erupting nearly continuously for several hundred years.  Although it can usually be approached safely, its eruptions often occur several times an hour.

The glow of the volcano was apparently what attracted Captain James Cook on the first European journey to the island in 1774. Today, the mountain is a sacred area for the John Frum cargo cult. Members of the cult revere John Frum, a deified messenger who foretold the bringing of wealth to the island by American forces, and believe he resides in Mount Yasur with his countrymen.

Kastom is a pidgin word (Bislama/English) used to refer to traditional culture, including religion, economics, art and magic in Melanesia.

The word derives from the Australian English pronunciation of custom. Kastom is mostly not written only passed down through teachings and stories. It is concentrated through:

• Kastom House – sites where objects and rituals are stored.

• Kastom stories – myths, legends and communal histories.

• Kastom tabu – objects of special power, significance and symbolism.

There are designated Kastom villages in Vanuatu which are open to tourists, dedicated to preserving Kastom.

Languages in Vanuatu

Vanuatu boasts 113 distinct languages and innumerable dialects. Out of the three official languages, Bislama is the most spoken in Vanuatu, followed by English, and lastly French. Symbols and items used day to day especially in the outer islands which highlight the kastom way of life:

• nakamal / men’s house or meeting ground

• namele leave /signs for taboo

• pigs tusk, red mat / signs of chiefly hood

• Naghol / land Diver first step from child hood to become man

• Circomsion / During the time of circumcise it is taboo to go near the place custom believes

• Navenue leave / someone holding a navenue leave working through into the village on which she or he left long ago the message is to say that he / she belongs to the place / that village

• Bamboo leave / when someone gives you a bamboo leave it means you belong to the tribe

• Basket with a bush knife holding in hand / going to the garden

• A women in a village with a tattoo sign or a broken front tooth / the girl is engaged

• Tattoos in the village/ symbol customary origin eg: spider, sharks, turtle, etc…

• Also a coconut leave or navele palm leaf across a beach / taboo sign

• Sand Drawing/ passing of messages and stories through kastom art on sand and song

Sailing into the islands of Vanuatu, a yachtsman is immediately struck by the contrast between the modern world and the deeply rooted traditions that define these remote communities. As the anchor drops and the sounds of the sea give way to the distant echo of drums, the realization dawns that this is not just a tropical paradise, but a land where ancient customs, known as “kastoms,” are still very much alive.

A Glimpse into Kastom

Kastom is the term used by the Ni-Vanuatu to describe their traditional customs, beliefs, and practices. For the visiting yachtsman, kastom is more than just a cultural curiosity; it is the heartbeat of the islands, influencing every aspect of life from social structures to land ownership and spiritual beliefs.

As you step ashore, you may notice that each village has its own version of kastom, which can vary significantly from island to island. These differences are a reflection of the diverse histories, languages, and environments of Vanuatu’s many islands. However, despite these variations, the core principles of respect for elders, communal living, and a deep connection to the land and sea remain constant.

Welcoming Ceremonies and the Role of Chiefs

One of the first encounters with kastom that a yachtsman might experience is the welcoming ceremony. In many villages, visitors are required to participate in a formal greeting ceremony before they can explore the area or engage with the local community. This ceremony is not just a formality; it is an important kastom practice that shows respect for the local chief and the community’s traditions.

The chief, or “big man,” plays a central role in village life. His authority is derived from kastom, and his decisions are respected by all. As a visitor, it is essential to show deference to the chief, as his approval is crucial for gaining access to the village and its resources. The welcoming ceremony often involves the presentation of a small gift, known as a “sevu-sevu,” which is typically a bundle of kava roots or other locally valued items. This gesture symbolizes the visitor’s respect for the local culture and their willingness to abide by its rules.

Land and Sea: The Foundations of Kastom

For the Ni-Vanuatu, the land and sea are not just resources to be exploited; they are sacred entities that are deeply intertwined with kastom. Land is communally owned and is passed down through generations according to traditional rules. As a yachtsman, it is important to understand that access to land and certain marine areas may be restricted or require permission from the local chief. Trespassing on these areas without proper authorization can be seen as a serious violation of kastom.

The sea is equally revered, and many kastom practices are centered around the ocean. Traditional fishing methods, such as the use of stone fish traps or communal fishing expeditions, are still practiced in many areas. These methods are not just about catching fish; they are rituals that reinforce community bonds and respect for the ocean’s bounty. Yachtsmen who wish to fish or dive in these waters should always seek guidance from the locals to ensure they are not infringing on sacred or restricted areas.

Kastom and Spiritual Beliefs

Kastom is also deeply connected to the spiritual beliefs of the Ni-Vanuatu. Ancestor worship and the belief in spirits, or “tambu,” are central to many communities. Sacred sites, known as “nasara,” are places where rituals are performed to honor the spirits and maintain harmony with the natural world. These sites are often off-limits to outsiders, and it is important for yachtsmen to respect these boundaries.

In some villages, traditional dances and ceremonies are performed to communicate with the spirits or to mark important events. These performances are not just for entertainment; they are powerful expressions of kastom and are often accompanied by the beating of slit drums and the chanting of ancient songs. As a visitor, witnessing such a ceremony can be a profound experience, but it is important to approach it with the appropriate reverence.

Challenges to Kastom in the Modern World

While kastom remains a vital part of life in Vanuatu, it is not without its challenges. The encroachment of modernity, tourism, and external influences has put pressure on traditional practices. For yachtsmen, it is important to be aware of these dynamics and to approach the islands with sensitivity.

Respecting kastom means more than just following the rules; it involves understanding the context in which these traditions exist and the challenges they face. Engaging with the local community in a respectful and meaningful way can help to support the preservation of kastom and ensure that these ancient practices continue to thrive in the face of change.

Practical Tips for Visiting Yachtsmen

• Seek Permission: Always seek permission from the local chief before venturing into a village or engaging in activities such as fishing or diving. This shows respect for kastom and ensures that you do not inadvertently violate any sacred or restricted areas.
• Participate in Ceremonies: If invited, participate in welcoming ceremonies or other kastom rituals. These experiences can provide valuable insights into the local culture and are a way to show respect for the community.
• Be Mindful of Dress and Behavior: In many villages, modest dress is expected, and certain behaviors, such as public displays of affection, may be frowned upon. Observing these customs shows respect for the local culture.
• Respect Sacred Sites: Avoid entering nasara or other sacred sites without explicit permission. These areas are often of great spiritual significance and should be treated with the utmost respect.
• Support Local Communities: Consider contributing to the local economy by purchasing handmade crafts, hiring local guides, or participating in community-led tours. This not only supports the community but also helps to preserve kastom practices.

 

Sand Drawings

Sand drawings are one of the most remarkable and visually captivating expressions of Vanuatu’s kastom. These intricate designs are created by tracing patterns in the sand with a single continuous line, often using just one finger. The drawings are more than just artistic expressions; they are a form of communication, storytelling, and knowledge transfer. Each design carries specific meanings, representing everything from navigation routes and genealogies to myths, legends, and natural elements.

For visiting yachtsmen, witnessing a sand drawing is like watching a living document come to life. These drawings are often accompanied by explanations or stories told by the artist, who may be an elder or a respected member of the community. The designs themselves are ephemeral, easily erased by the wind or tide, which emphasizes their spiritual and transient nature. This practice serves as a reminder of the importance of oral traditions in preserving knowledge and cultural heritage in Vanuatu.

Water Music

Water music is another unique and enchanting aspect of Vanuatu’s kastom. Practiced primarily by the women of the northern islands, particularly on Gaua and Ambae, water music involves creating rhythms and melodies by slapping, scooping, and splashing water with their hands. The women stand waist-deep in water and perform intricate, synchronized movements that produce a variety of sounds, from deep bass notes to high-pitched splashes.

For yachtsmen, witnessing a water music performance is a mesmerizing experience. The music, which often accompanies rituals or celebrations, is deeply connected to the natural environment. The sounds mimic the rhythms of the ocean, the rainfall, and the wind, reflecting the close relationship the Ni-Vanuatu have with their surroundings. Water music is not just entertainment; it is a form of expression that conveys the harmony between the people and the elements of nature.

Rom Dance

The Rom dance is one of the most iconic and powerful kastom ceremonies in Vanuatu, particularly on the island of Ambrym. This dance is performed during important rituals, such as initiations, harvest celebrations, and other significant communal events. The dancers wear elaborate costumes made from banana leaves, masks carved from wood, and headdresses adorned with feathers and shells. The Rom masks are particularly significant, often representing ancestral spirits or deities.

As a visiting yachtsman, witnessing a Rom dance is an unforgettable experience. The dance is a dramatic and solemn affair, with deep, resonant drumbeats setting the rhythm. The dancers move in unison, their steps echoing the ancient traditions that have been passed down through generations. The Rom dance is more than just a performance; it is a spiritual act that connects the dancers and the audience to the ancestors and the natural world. It is a vivid reminder of the living presence of kastom in Vanuatu.

Wood Carving

Wood carving is a highly respected art form in Vanuatu, with each island and community having its own distinctive style and motifs. The carvings often depict ancestral figures, animals, and symbols that are deeply embedded in kastom beliefs. These carvings are not only used in rituals and ceremonies but also serve as everyday objects, such as bowls, canoes, and tools.

For yachtsmen visiting the islands, wood carvings offer a tangible connection to the cultural heritage of the Ni-Vanuatu. Purchasing a carved figure or other wooden object is not just buying a souvenir; it is acquiring a piece of the local culture, imbued with spiritual significance. The carvings often tell stories or represent aspects of the natural world, and they are made with great skill and care, reflecting the deep respect the carvers have for their craft and the traditions they uphold.

Witch Doctors

The role of the witch doctor, or “clever man,” is another fascinating aspect of kastom in Vanuatu. Witch doctors are highly respected figures within their communities, possessing knowledge of traditional medicine, spiritual practices, and the ability to communicate with the spirit world. They are often called upon to heal the sick, protect the village from harm, and perform rituals that ensure the community’s well-being.

For a yachtsman, encountering a witch doctor can be both intriguing and mysterious. These individuals hold a unique place in Ni-Vanuatu society, blending the roles of healer, spiritual guide, and mediator between the physical and spiritual realms. Witch doctors may use a variety of tools and substances in their practices, including herbs, charms, and talismans. Their knowledge is passed down through generations, and their authority is derived from both their skill and their connection to the ancestral spirits.

While the idea of witch doctors might seem exotic or even eerie to outsiders, it is important for visitors to approach these practices with respect and an open mind. The belief in the power of witch doctors is deeply rooted in kastom and plays a crucial role in maintaining the social and spiritual fabric of the community.

Land Diving (Naghol): The Precursor to Modern Bungee Jumping

Land diving, known locally as “Naghol,” is one of Vanuatu’s most spectacular and culturally significant traditions. Taking place on Pentecost Island, this ritual is an ancient form of bungee jumping, but without the modern safety equipment. Instead, participants leap from tall wooden towers with only vines tied to their ankles. This incredible tradition is deeply rooted in the kastom of the island and is believed to ensure a good yam harvest, as well as to prove the strength and bravery of the men who participate.

The Significance of Land Diving

For the Ni-Vanuatu people, land diving is more than just a daring feat; it is a sacred ritual with profound cultural and spiritual meaning. The origins of land diving are steeped in legend, with one popular story recounting how a woman named Tamalie escaped from her abusive husband by climbing a tree and tying vines to her ankles before jumping. When her husband followed her and jumped after her, he did not tie the vines properly and fell to his death. The men of the village then began performing the jump themselves to ensure their own safety and to honor the woman’s courage.

Today, the land dive is performed annually during the yam harvest season, usually between April and June. The ritual is believed to bless the soil and guarantee a bountiful harvest. It is also a rite of passage for young men, who prove their manhood by participating in the dive. The higher the platform from which a man dives, the greater his bravery is considered.

The Construction of the Tower

The preparation for a land dive is as impressive as the dive itself. A massive tower, sometimes reaching heights of 20 to 30 meters (65 to 100 feet), is constructed using only materials from the surrounding forest. The tower is a masterpiece of traditional engineering, built by the villagers using ropes made from vines and wood lashed together. The platforms from which the men dive are placed at different heights, with the highest reserved for the most experienced and daring divers.

The vines used for the dive are carefully selected based on their elasticity and strength. They must be just the right length to ensure that the diver’s head or shoulders lightly brush the ground at the end of the fall, symbolizing the blessing of the earth. The selection of the vines is a critical part of the preparation, as a miscalculation could result in serious injury or death.

The Dive: A Test of Courage

On the day of the land dive, the atmosphere is charged with anticipation. The divers, clad only in traditional nambas (penis sheaths) and decorated with body paint, climb the rickety tower to their designated platforms. The villagers gather below, singing, dancing, and chanting to encourage the divers and to invoke the spirits for protection.

Each diver stands on the edge of the platform, gripping the vine attached to his ankles. The moment of the dive is a powerful one, filled with tension and ritual significance. With a final breath and a prayer to the ancestors, the diver leaps from the platform, plummeting towards the earth. The crowd erupts in cheers and chants as the diver’s fall is arrested by the vines, just as his head or shoulders graze the ground. The diver is then quickly helped up, often dazed but unharmed, to the adulation of the onlookers.

For the diver, completing the land dive is a deeply spiritual experience, reaffirming his connection to the earth, his ancestors, and the community. It is a test of courage, faith, and physical endurance that few outsiders can truly comprehend.