FIJIAN CULTURE AND THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

FIJI: THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

In traditional villages in Fiji Sevusevu is and has been the central component of all life-cycle rituals, social gatherings, healing ceremonies and community meetings.  Significant and ancient in Fiji, the “sevusevu” also marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village.

In more formal settings, Sevusevu includes a complete performance where each male from the village has a specific role to play. Traditional attire is worn with pride, collected rain water is poured from bamboo shafts, pounded kava is strained through hibiscus bark and each bilo (drinking bowl from the half-shell of a coconut) is delivered deliberately and seriously in absolute silence (aside from the sound of deep ‘Cobo’ claps in acceptance and thanks of each ‘bilo’)

Every Sevusevu is not as formal as pictured above however there is a distinct and courteous process visitors must follow.  Further, understanding the significance of Sevusevu, respecting, and adhering to the tradition of this process helps to keep this aspect of Fijian Culture strong.

Longtime Ocean Posse member Chris on SV SEAGLUB has been living in Fiji for several years.   He shares the following about his experience with the Sevesevu:

In Fiji, when visiting smaller settlements, a visitor must seek out the village chief and present him with a small token or gift as a sign of respect and to ask permission to visit. This not only gives visitors permission to interact with the villagers but also to stay in the town and to visit any local scenery (such as beaches, waterfalls etc). Not doing so shows disrespect for their culture, but is also the equivalent of trespassing – for example pitching a tent in someone's backyard without permission.

‘Sevusevu’ is the name given to the actual gift or token that visitors present the chief with, most commonly a half-kilo bumdle of waka (kava root).  When arriving in the village, visitors should ask for the Turaga ni Koro (pronounced as too-ranga nee koro) or the village headman, as they usually have good English skills and will help with the translations. The headman will take visitors to the chief’s house for introduction. Remember no hats are to be worn once in the village and you should take your shoes off at the door before entering houses. Sitting cross legged on the floor, the kava root is then presented to the chief.

To ensure you are respectful of this important tradition, there are a few points of etiquette to follow. Firstly, everyone at the ceremony should dress in a sulu, which is a Fijian skirt regarded as their national dress. Women should also cover their shoulders. Men should sit cross-legged, ensuring that their sulu covers their knees, and women should sit with knees and feet together. Do not take photographs or videos throughout the ceremony, until the Turaga ni Koro lets you know that it’s okay to do so. Silence during the ceremony itself is crucial.

The ceremony itself is poignant. Afterwards you'll be welcomed as nothing less than family.

SV SEAGLUB 🇺🇸 Chris -Hylas 46'

 

Anchorage in Fulaga, Fiji

 


Marquesas named UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Marquesan Flag

Marquesas named

UNESCO World Heritage Site

 

 

The Marquesan Islands are the most isolated island group on the planet in the northern reaches of French Polynesia.  They have abundant fresh water, fertile soil, many valleys, and an year round growing season.  They were once the home of tens of thousands of Polynesians.  Now the 12 islands are home to under 10,000 people.

According to the World Heritage Convention, The Marquesan Islands were recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its "exceptional testimony to the territorial occupation of the Marquesas archipelago by a human civilization that arrived by sea around the year 1000 CE and developed on these isolated islands between the 10th and the 19th centuries. It is also a hotspot of biodiversity that combines irreplaceable and exceptionally well conserved marine and terrestrial ecosystems. Marked by sharp ridges, impressive peaks and cliffs rising abruptly above the ocean, the landscapes of the archipelago are unparalleled in these tropical latitudes. The archipelago is a major centre of endemism, home to rare and diverse flora, a diversity of emblematic marine species, and one of the most diverse seabird assemblages in the South Pacific. Virtually free from human exploitation, Marquesan waters are among the world’s last marine wilderness areas. The property also includes archaeological sites ranging from monumental dry-stone structures to lithic sculptures and engravings." https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1707

The ancient Marquesan anthropomorphic sculptures or tiki have received wide attention since they were first noted in 1595.  Oral stories of their significance are difficult to come by as many have been lost.  The Marquesan language has been all but lost to French in the islands although, presently there are many people trying to study it, use it, and keep it alive.  Beginning in 1980's, there have been academic efforts to trace the history of Marquesan language, spirituality, and stone structures. Stylistically the Marquesan stone tiki followed certain social rules with similar characteristics to tattoos and material objects.

Copra, drying on the left, is a very common economy for local Marquesans
There are huge basalt pinnacles on Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas

 


SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT

SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT

with help from Russell Descheemaeker age 14

Polynesia covers a vast stretch of Pacific Ocean Islands that has a longstanding history of distinctly self-sufficient island people who spoke their own unique language that had a rich seafaring life in common.  What is known as modern day surfing once went by many different names from “Hōrue” (Tahitian for gliding on the waves) to heʻe nalu (Hawaiian for wave sliding)While the word for the activity varied by dialect, early water sliding and gliding dates as far back as the 12th century in Polynesia.  Many believe that this water activity had religious significance and was seen as an important part of ancient Polynesian life and culture before making tis way to Hawaii where it developed and grew substantially.  Formally, surfing was recorded by Joseph Banks aboard the Endeavour during the first journey of  the famous Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1769.  

Joseph banks wrote in Captain Cook's journal

...their chief [sic] amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out as far as the outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness. Sometimes they were carried almost ashore...”

early sufing photo from Hawaii

In Tahiti and Samoa, surfing was a popular activity that was often used as part of warriors' training.  Said warriors would often be seen by early Europeans paddling to surf breaks spending many hours bravely paddling head-on into large surf and riding waves.  Canoes often went with surfing parties and the men would often swap between canoeing and paddling boards.  

In the late 1700's missionary’s spread the word of God through Polynesia.  Much native culture, language, and spirituality was suppressed as a direct result of contact with early missionaries.  (Side Note: The Shark God by Charles Montgomery is an interesting story tracing the history of missionaries in Polynesia)  Wave sliding was deemed a form of Devil worship and was thereby among the suppressed native activities.  However, the sport was so widespread across the Pacific Ocean that it was not fully stamped it out.  In Hawai'i, surfing had become ingrained into the very fabric of Hawaii'an religion and culture that it managed to withstand many tests through time, conflict, and diseases brought by early Europeans.  Some estimates speculate that the native population of the Hawaiian islands was about 800,000 people before European germ contact dessimated the native population to 40,000.  There were surfers among the survivors and the sport continued to entertain, interest, and connect people to the water.  In 1890, a man named Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was born.  In his lifetime, he changed the sport, restoring its popularity and fanfare.  Duke was a two time gold mettle Olympic swimmer and he loved the water.  His love was contagious.  

Duke is considered one of the Fathers of Surfing.
Duke on a visit to new Zealand to promote surfing and play.

Duke died at the age of 77 on January 22, 1968.  The sport continued to grow and his memory and influence live on. Fast forward to the present and surfing is enjoyed by enthusiasts both recreationally as a relaxed water activity and by olympic athletes as a modern and extreme sport.

France is currently hosting the 2024 Surfing Olympics on the South side of the island of Tahiti, an island in western French Polynesia.  The world famous blue barrel wave called Teahupo'u was so big on Thursday July 29, that the surfing games are on hold until Saturday, Aug 3rd.

A very interesting graphic and description of the wave and how it is uniquely formed by off the mountainous reef fringed reef is here:

https://www.reuters.com/graphics/OLYMPICS-2024/SURFING/akpeoxnyopr/

Looking out from the Teahupu'u Barrel to the mountains of Tahiti

OAXACA & MOLE

Oaxaca City in the Centro District in the Central Valleys region of the state. Heritage and cultural tourism makes up an important part of the city's economy, and it has numerous colonial-era structures as well as significant archeological sites and elements of the continuing native Zapotec and Mixtec cultures.

It is the site of the month-long cultural festival called the "Guelaguetza", which features Oaxacan dance from the seven regions, music, and a beauty pageant for indigenous women.


 

The city is also known as "la Verde Antequera" and the variety of structures built from a native green stone. The name Oaxaca is derived from the Nahuatl name for the place, Huaxyacac, which was Hispanicized to Guajaca, later spelled Oaxaca. In 1872, "de Juárez" was added in honor of Benito Juárez, a native of this state who became president, serving from 1852 to 1872.

Zocalo

The Plaza de la Constitución, or Zócalo, was planned out in 1529 by Juan Peláez de Berrio. During the entire colonial period this plaza was never paved, nor had sidewalks, only a marble fountain that was placed here in 1739. This was removed in 1857 to put in the bandstand and trees were planted. In 1881, the vegetation here was rearranged and in 1885, a statue of Benito Juárez was added. It was remodeled again in 1901 and a new Art Nouveau bandstand installed. Fountains of green stone with capricious figures were installed in 1967. The bandstand in the center hosts the State Musical Band, La Marimba and other groups

Museum

Museo De Arte Contemporaneo De Oaxaca
is housed in the so-called Casa de Cortés. It is one of the oldest buildings in the city and one of the most representative of non-religious buildings.   Although it has been modified somewhat over the years, it still conserves its basic layout with rooms surrounding three courtyards. The architectural style is basically Andalucian modified by Oaxaca traditions.  The main portal is Spanish Baroque and has three levels. In the first, there are two "tritóstila" columns that support the balcony which has wrought iron railings.  At the top of the window is seal of the Jesuits. The third level contains a central niche with a sculpture of an archangel as well as the coats of arms of the Laso de la Vega and the Pinelo families.

Museum

The architectural style is basically Andalucian modified by Oaxaca traditions.  The main portal is Spanish Baroque and has three levels. In the first, there are two "tritóstila" columns that support the balcony which has wrought iron railings.  At the top of the window is seal of the Jesuits. The third level contains a central niche with a sculpture of an archangel as well as the coats of arms of the Laso de la Vega and the Pinelo families.

Mercado Benito Juárez is located one block south of the Zócalo on Flores Magón and Las Casas but it takes up the entire city block

MercadoBenitoJuárez

OAXACA City Map & Regional Map
Oaxaca

Narrow streets are paved with stones extracted from the nearby mountains

One of the local culinary hot spots RESTAURANT  "LAS QUINCE LETRAS"

Serene setting in the inner courtyard

Delectable and  affordable dishes

And the Favorite "Bichos al Plato III"

SEVEN STYLES OF MOLE

Mole from Nahuatl mōlli, "sauce" is a traditional marinade and sauce originally used in Mexican cuisine. |
In contemporary Mexico the term is used for a number of sauces - see below

 

1. MOLE NEGRO

The “typical” savory-sweet mole mentioned above, and the one most frequently found.onion, garlic, whole spices like cinnamon, cloves, black pepper and cumin, dried chiles, pumpkin and sesame seeds, herbs like hoja santo (which contributes to the dark color) and cilantro, bread for thickening and sometimes dried fruit for extra sweetness.

 

 

2. MOLE ROJO

Red mole, also known as mole poblano,  using many of the same spices and base ingredients and also contains chocolate, but less. Instead, this sweeter, spicier and  versatile version is amped up with several kinds of dried red chile like pasilla, guajillo and ancho as well as pulverized raisins and almonds or peanuts. When the sauce is done, browned chicken, pork or beef is typically added and stewed until tender .

3. MOLE COLORADITO  

This brew translates to “a shade of red,” or “on the nifty side,” depending on what you’re doing in the kitchen. Somewhere between rojo and negro in color, this brown mole shares the base ingredients of whole spices, onions, garlic, seeds and chocolate and features  secret ingredients for thickening and sweetening: mashed ripe plantain.

4. MOLE AMARILLO

Picture all the goodness of the first three moles without the sweet and chocolate stuff and you have a delicious basic sauce to pour over or use as a cooking base   It’s not unlike a simple Indian curry sauce, the sky’s the limit.

MOLE AMARILLO

5. MOLE VERDE

White on the outside, green on the inside — that’s a pumpkin seed. Extra pepitas or pipian, along with fresh tomatillos, jalapenos and cilantro are the key ingredients in bright green mole verde. It can be diluted with chicken stock when it’s finished and poured over cooked chicken to make a soupy sauce mopped up with tortillas or bread.

Mole Verde

6. MOLE CHICHILO 

This one’s a little more intense. Round up all the beef bones y as you’re going to need them. This dark, spicy sauce starts with rich, homemade beef stock. The stock rehydrates dried chiles de arbol, anchos and guajillos which you then blend with the usual slow-cooked garlic and onions. Mole chichilo is thickened with either masa harina, lime-cured corn flour, or crushed fresh tortillas. No chocolate here but excellent for braises.Mole CHICHILO

7. MOLE MANCHAMANTEL 

This  mole is between the bright red chorizo grease, tomatoes and ancho chiles, you do not want to get this stuff on anything white. Featuring fresh pineapple in addition to plantain, manchamantel is a sweet, spicy, fruity sauce . Hence the name - translated into "tablecloth-staining"

MOLE MANCHAMANTEL

HOW TO MAKE MOLE AMARILLO

Mole amarillo (yellow mole) is a traditional Oaxacan dish known for its unique flavor profile, combining chilies, spices, and masa to create a vibrant yellow sauce. Here's a detailed recipe to make mole amarillo:

Ingredients

For the Mole

  • 4 dried guajillo chilies, seeds and stems removed
  • 2 dried chilhuacle amarillo chilies, seeds and stems removed (or substitute with aji amarillo or yellow bell pepper if unavailable)
  • 4 tomatillos, husked and washed
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 small onion, quartered
  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 2 tablespoons masa harina (corn dough flour)
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
  • Salt to taste

For the Dish

  • 1 lb chicken thighs or pork shoulder, cut into bite-sized pieces
  • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • 2 chayotes, peeled and cubed
  • 1 zucchini, cubed
  • 1 bunch green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
  • 1 ear of corn, kernels removed
  • Fresh cilantro for garnish

Instructions

Prepare the Mole Sauce

  1. Toast the Chilies:
    • Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast the guajillo and chilhuacle amarillo chilies until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes. Be careful not to burn them.
  2. Soak the Chilies:
    • Place the toasted chilies in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let them soak for about 20 minutes until softened.
  3. Blend the Sauce:
    • In a blender, combine the soaked chilies, tomatillos, garlic, onion, cumin seeds, oregano, cinnamon, cloves, and masa harina. Add 1 cup of the soaking water from the chilies and blend until smooth.
  4. Cook the Sauce:
    • Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot over medium heat. Pour in the blended sauce and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
    • Add the chicken or vegetable broth gradually, stirring constantly. Bring to a simmer and let it cook for about 20-30 minutes, or until the sauce thickens. Season with salt to taste.

Prepare the Dish

  1. Cook the Meat:
    • In a separate pot, cook the chicken or pork with a bit of salt until fully cooked. Remove and set aside.
  2. Cook the Vegetables:
    • In the same pot used for the meat, add the potatoes, chayotes, zucchini, green beans, and corn. Add enough water to cover the vegetables and cook until tender but not mushy.
  3. Combine and Serve:
    • Add the cooked meat to the pot with the vegetables.
    • Pour the mole amarillo sauce over the meat and vegetables. Stir gently to combine and heat through.
    • Serve hot, garnished with fresh cilantro.

Enjoy your mole Amarillo with warm tortillas ( blue corn if you can )

 

 

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