Marquesas named UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Marquesan Flag

Marquesas named

UNESCO World Heritage Site

 

 

The Marquesan Islands are the most isolated island group on the planet in the northern reaches of French Polynesia.  They have abundant fresh water, fertile soil, many valleys, and an year round growing season.  They were once the home of tens of thousands of Polynesians.  Now the 12 islands are home to under 10,000 people.

According to the World Heritage Convention, The Marquesan Islands were recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its "exceptional testimony to the territorial occupation of the Marquesas archipelago by a human civilization that arrived by sea around the year 1000 CE and developed on these isolated islands between the 10th and the 19th centuries. It is also a hotspot of biodiversity that combines irreplaceable and exceptionally well conserved marine and terrestrial ecosystems. Marked by sharp ridges, impressive peaks and cliffs rising abruptly above the ocean, the landscapes of the archipelago are unparalleled in these tropical latitudes. The archipelago is a major centre of endemism, home to rare and diverse flora, a diversity of emblematic marine species, and one of the most diverse seabird assemblages in the South Pacific. Virtually free from human exploitation, Marquesan waters are among the world’s last marine wilderness areas. The property also includes archaeological sites ranging from monumental dry-stone structures to lithic sculptures and engravings." https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1707

The ancient Marquesan anthropomorphic sculptures or tiki have received wide attention since they were first noted in 1595.  Oral stories of their significance are difficult to come by as many have been lost.  The Marquesan language has been all but lost to French in the islands although, presently there are many people trying to study it, use it, and keep it alive.  Beginning in 1980's, there have been academic efforts to trace the history of Marquesan language, spirituality, and stone structures. Stylistically the Marquesan stone tiki followed certain social rules with similar characteristics to tattoos and material objects.

Copra, drying on the left, is a very common economy for local Marquesans
There are huge basalt pinnacles on Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas

 


MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE

MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE

Kevin & Carla

SV GARGOYLE on anchor

From the moment Kevin and Carla departed Vancouver BC on May 31, 2019, their first “real” goal was to be in Barra de Navidad in time for the 2019 Panama Posse kickoff meeting at the end of November. That first five months and 4,000 + NM set the tone for the crew of SV Gargoyle, a 2011 Beneteau Oceanis 50. Kevin, Carla, along with their two cats, Sam and Dean, have been sailing proudly under a Posse banner of one flavor or another ever since.

Posse in Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua...on COVID lockdown

2020 highlights included being locked down in Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua with a number of other posse members. Once they were allowed to leave, Gargoyle beat upwind for nine days to the Galapagos to be one of the first yachts post-COVID to be allowed into these magical islands. After two months in paradise with the islands to themselves, it was time to head East for their first Panama Canal transit and a planned May 2021 Atlantic transit. Insert the Omnicom variant into the story and with Portugal telling them they wouldn’t be allowed into the Azores; they made a 180 degree turn back to Panama for canal transit number two. The decision was now to go the other way to the Med, via the Pacific!

Departing from Marina Papagayo in March 2022 with Dietmar wishing us fair winds from the dock, Gargoyle made a 30-day passage to Nuku Hiva, followed by a season cruising French Polynesia and Fiji. Spending cyclone season in New Zealand, they experienced not one but two cyclones. Leary of the Red Sea they decided to ship Gargoyle with Posse Partner Sevenstar Yacht Transport from Auckland to Cork Ireland in May 2023.

SV GARGOYLE on the Transport through the Panama Canal for the third time.

After Gargoyle made her 3rd Panama Canal transit, albeit without her crew, what followed was a magical summer in Ireland and Scotland before a late summer run to Spain, Portugal and then the Med. A winter in Tunisia followed by this season’s cruising in Malta, Sicily, Italy, up to Venice, Greece and now where they sit anchored off Bodrum, Turkey. 24 countries, 40,000NM and yes, Sam and Dean are still rocking it with their human crew.

Carla and Sam in the cockpit.
Dean's got it made in the shade.

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Kevin and Carla are always available as well for a call or email exchange with their fellow cruisers. sailinggargoyle@gmail.com

SV GARGOYLE 🇨🇦 Kevin & Carla - Beneteau Oceanis 50

 

THANK YOU KEVIN & CARLA FOR BEING A PART OF THE POSSE FOR SO MANY YEARS!


GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE

GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE

Nuku Hiva, Marquesas

8°54.8555'S, 140°13.4389'W

At Anchor
SV WHIRLWIND in Baie Marquesienne: Looks like we are anchored in a desert!

Baie Marquesienne is on the western facing side of the island of Nuku Hiva.  The Trade Winds generally blow from the East or SE; the swell is similar so this anchorage is generally in the lee of the island making the anchorage very calm and surprisingly dry.  Since the water is calm, the clarity is pretty good too and there is a nice spot to snorkel on the N side of the anchorage.  I saw sharks, dolphins, and lots of very colorful fish among large boulders and small bits of coral here and there.  The bay is surrounded by rocky hillsides that appear to be dry with patches of green vegetation where wild goats roam and bleat all day long.  A valley winds up into a steep canyon.

The head of the bay is a rather steep too so landing is not really an option.  We have four people onboard and were fortunate to have two that wanted to stay onboard and two that wanted to explore.  So, we got dropped off on the beach, brought a radio, some water, and headed off into the wild.  There is no marked trail to follow but there are waterways (some dry, some running, some rushing) that we followed up and up and up...until we could not go up any more.  As we travelled up the valley we found an oasis and a waterfall, wild pigs and goats, many different flowering trees and plenty of shade to stay cool.

The head of the Bay is like a steep and rocky dam separating a small (this time of year) estuary from the bay
The vegetation along the dry creek bed getting greener as we go into the valley.
Exploring up the valley from the Bay we found an oasis.
Palm Tree reaching for the sun in the steep and deep desert like canyon.
A small but mighty waterfall found. The picture does not do justice to the fact that we could not go any further up from here.
The explorers: Mike and Maurisa enjoying the Polynesian Paradise and the Desert Oasis
The sunsetting on the rocky outcropping lining the dry creek bed we followed up and down from the Bay.

https://goodnautical.com/french-polynesia/anchorage/anse-uea-bai-marquisienne


GOOD NAUTICAL ON THE WEST COAST OF THE BAJA: BAHIA SAN QUINTIN

GOOD NAUTICAL ON THE WEST COAST OF THE BAJA:

BAHIA SAN QUINTIN, MEXICO Flag of Mexico

30° 23.7384′ N, 115° 55.5760′ W

Posse members on the West Coast are beginning to set their sights on the southbound journey.  Consider a stopover in Bahia San Quintin on the west cost of the Baja Peninsula.  Whale watching, sport fishing and fantastic seafood bring tourists to San Quintin. Oysters, mussels and abalones are harvested from the crystal clear waters of the bay so please avoid dumping waste of any kind overboard. The lagoon provides great opportunities for dinghy exploration and the remains of an abandoned British colony lie in the shore of the inner bay.

Western Baja has many beautiful beaches like this one in San Quintin

Anchorage

The anchorage on the east side of the bay is open to the SW and feels quite exposed with surf breaking even a mile offshore. Anchor on a sandy bottom in 5-10m just outside the shoal line which is marked by small breakers.

https://goodnautical.com/mexico-pacific/anchorage/bahia-san-quintin

Bahia San Quintin

BAHIA SAN QUINTIN

Bahía San Quintín, located on the Pacific coast of Baja California, Mexico, is a hidden gem for sailors seeking an authentic and tranquil maritime adventure. This natural harbor, about 190 nautical miles south of San Diego, offers a unique blend of pristine beauty, rich marine life, and a glimpse into the unspoiled wilderness of Baja California.

Geography and Navigation

Bahía San Quintín is a broad, sheltered bay framed by volcanic hills and sandy beaches, providing excellent protection from the Pacific’s swells. The bay is about 6 miles wide and 11 miles long, offering ample anchorage space with good holding ground in sand and mud. The entrance to the bay can be tricky, especially for first-time visitors, due to shifting sandbars and shallow areas. It is advisable to enter during daylight with good visibility and to use updated nautical charts. Depth sounders and GPS are essential tools for navigating safely into the bay.

Weather and Climate

The climate in Bahía San Quintín is typically mild and dry, with average temperatures ranging from the mid-50s to the mid-70s Fahrenheit. The area enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with dry summers and mild, wet winters. Fog can be a common occurrence, especially in the mornings, so sailors should be prepared for reduced visibility at times. Winds are predominantly from the northwest, providing favorable sailing conditions for those heading south.

Flora and Fauna

Bahía San Quintín is a haven for nature lovers. The bay and its surrounding areas are home to a diverse array of wildlife. Birdwatchers will be delighted by the presence of numerous bird species, including the endangered black brant, as well as various shorebirds and waterfowl. The bay’s waters teem with marine life, making it a popular spot for fishing and snorkeling. Anglers can expect to catch species such as halibut, sea bass, and yellowtail.

Activities and Attractions

For sailors looking to stretch their legs, the area offers plenty of onshore activities. The surrounding landscape is perfect for hiking, with trails leading through volcanic rock formations and coastal dunes. The nearby fishing village of San Quintín provides a glimpse into the local culture and an opportunity to sample fresh seafood, particularly the region’s renowned oysters and clams. Visiting the local oyster farms can be a fascinating experience, offering insights into the aquaculture practices that sustain the local economy.

Services and Facilities

While Bahía San Quintín is relatively undeveloped compared to more popular tourist destinations, it offers essential services for visiting sailors. There are a few basic facilities, including fuel, provisions, and some repair services available in the village of San Quintín. It is advisable to stock up on necessary supplies before arriving, as options may be limited. For those needing more extensive services, the port of Ensenada, located about 130 nautical miles to the north, provides a wider range of amenities, including marinas, chandleries, and professional repair services.

Conservation and Sustainability

Bahía San Quintín is part of a protected natural area, and visitors are encouraged to respect the environment and practice sustainable boating. Efforts to preserve the bay’s natural beauty and biodiversity are ongoing, and sailors can contribute by following Leave No Trace principles, minimizing waste, and avoiding damage to sensitive habitats such as seagrass beds and bird nesting areas.

Conclusion

Bahía San Quintín offers a serene and rewarding destination for sailors looking to explore the less-traveled waters of Baja California. Its natural beauty, abundant wildlife, and tranquil atmosphere make it an ideal spot for those seeking to experience the unspoiled charm of Mexico’s Pacific coast. Whether anchoring in its calm waters, exploring its diverse ecosystems, or engaging with the local community, sailors will find Bahía San Quintín to be a memorable and enriching part of their maritime journey.

Landing on the Beach in High Surf

Landing on the beach in high surf at Bahía San Quintín can be challenging and requires careful planning and execution. The key to a successful landing is timing and understanding the wave patterns. It is essential to observe the surf for a period to identify any lulls between sets of larger waves. When ready, approach the beach at a 90-degree angle, maintaining enough speed to stay ahead of the breaking waves. As you near the shore, reduce speed and be prepared to jump out and pull the dinghy up the beach swiftly to avoid it being swamped by incoming waves. Ensure all equipment and passengers are secure, and wear appropriate safety gear such as life jackets. Landing in high surf can be risky, so if conditions seem too dangerous, it might be best to wait for calmer seas or find a more sheltered landing spot within the bay.

Bahia San Quintin


MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG - Erick & Jenny

MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG

Erick & Jenny

Turning a dream into reality, Erick and Jenny are sailing through the South Pacific.

It was a lifelong dream of mine to sail my own boat to beautiful remote places in search of perfect, empty surf breaks, enjoying fishing and other adventures along the way. Around 2007, after my first few years of office work after college, I decided to chase the dream and see if I could make it a reality. Having no prior experience, I took a few sailing lessons to see if it was something I would enjoy and was immediately hooked. Instead of taking a sensible route towards boat ownership, I dove headfirst into buying a derelict project boat and spent the next 10 years fully rebuilding Windsong, a 1975 Downeaster 38 Cutter, into a practically brand new (yet still old) boat.  Having little to no relevant skills, I had to learn everything as I went, which in the end gave me a great set of knowledge and experience concerning the ins and outs of the boat.

Once Windsong was as complete as she could be in late 2019, my partner Jenny and I got married, and within a month we moved aboard and set sail for our honeymoon.  Leaving from our home port, St. Augustine, FL, and bounced our way down the Florida intercoastal waterway to get a feel for life on the move and at anchor. We started our journey with our senior boxer dog, Koda, who took to cruising life with great happiness as she was able to spend all day, every day with us.  After a month or so of Florida coastal cruising, we crossed over to the Bahamas and island hopped for the next few months until Covid shut most of the country down.  We sailed back to the US and spent the next summer between South Carolina and Florida. Unfortunately, Koda was not long for the world at this time, so she was put to rest. While it was a devastating moment for us, it did free us up to sail greater distances.  We went back to the Bahamas and spent a full season sailing from the Abacos all the way down to Great Inagua. From there we crossed directly to Panama on our first long passage across the Caribbean Sea.

WINDSONG setting out to sea.

We spent almost two years in Panama, mostly in Bocas Del Toro on the Caribbean side. With great surfing, protected anchorages, affordable living, and fantastic people; it was hard to not stay forever. However, we decided our sailing days were not done, and wanted to cross the Pacific and experience the remote South Pacific tropics. We geared the boat up a bit more, and once all was ready, we first crossed the Panama Canal and set sail to the Galapagos.  We applied for and received a 1-year visa for French Polynesia, so after 24 days at sea from the Galapagos we arrived in the Marquesas and then took our time going through the French Polynesian islands, savoring each bit along the way.  One year later, we set sail from French Polynesia and with some stops along the way we are now in Fiji, where we will spend the rest of the 2024 cruising season.   We do not know where the winds will take us next, but we are looking forward to exploring these lovely islands for as long as they captivate us.

Erick loves to surf and looks for it where they sail
Jenny with a view

SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸Erick & Jenny - Downeaster Cutter 38′

Erick - WindsongJenny - Windsong