CANAL CROSSING NOTES
CANAL CROSSING NOTES
Many Ocean Posse members cross the Panama Canal at some point on their journey. When this time comes people often wonder about the actual logistics of the transit, what food and beverages make for an easy day and happy line handlers, etc...
SV BRIGADOON III recently crossed the Panama Canal and is sharing the notes they shared of their experience to "give some friends a feel for what to expect and see it from my perspective".
The night before the transit, the four line-handlers arrived with the fenders and lines. One of the line-handlers was (Posse Sponsor and Canal Agent) Erick (Galvarez)’s son, Juan and another was Juan’s uncle “Junior”. Junior seemed to be the head line handler and gave the others direction. They slept one on each salon sofa, one in the aft quarter berth and Junior slept in the cockpit because, as he said, he snores.
The line-handlers arrived on time, as planned, at 6:30 pm and we had dinner ready for them -Spanish style meatballs in a roasted pepper sauce on Orzo, bean-corn salad and grapes for dessert. They devoured everything and all wanted to know what orzo was. They also drank water and Coke. I had read that they like Coke; regular not diet.
We had dinner before they arrived to simplify things. After dinner, they took off and Junior stayed and went to bed. Doug and I also went to bed and didn’t hear a peep from anyone.
We got up at 2:30 am and left the marina at 3:15 am to travel to a point between markers 2 and 4 to pick up our advisor. This area is just outside of Playita Marina. It took a while for Carlos, our advisor, to show up in the big pilot boat but eventually did and readied himself in the rocky seas for a very heroic leap to our boat. Once the advisor was aboard, all the line-handlers, except uncle Junior, went back to bed and we travelled in the dark under the Bridge of the Americas to the first lock which is about 7.5 miles from where we had picked up Carlos at about 4:15 am.
It was just getting light when we entered the first lock. The advisor gave us instructions and explanations for everything we needed to know as we went along, such as what to expect in the lock and that it takes 8 minutes for the water to fill the lock. He also explained how and when we would raft up to the other sailboat we were travelling with.
Because we were up-locking, we would travel behind the commercial ship. At the other end we would be down-locking and would be in front of the commercial ship.
We cleared the third lock at about 8 am so I got the coffee on and had oranges and muffins for everyone to tide them over while I made breakfast - rice and beans, eggs, avocado and salsa plus orange juice and more oranges. They love rice and beans.
As expected, the three younger line handlers went below to bed or rest and we carried on through Gatun Lake passing huge freighters going the opposite way.
At 12 noon and before we got to the Gatun locks, I made lunch - Chicken Chorizo Paella, grapes and watermelon. They also had water, coke and orange juice. Again, they gobbled it all up and helped with the dishes. Phew, no more dinners. We continued through the Gatun locks and about 20 minutes later the pilot boat showed up for Carlos the advisor. The three line-handlers continued on with us to Shelter Bay and Erick was waiting for them to transport them back home.
I want to add a comment on the line-handlers. Generally, when they are not needed, they are happy to hang out inside the boat. They were professional, tidy and kept their bags away and out of sight. They seemed to have a sixth sense of when they were needed as they would appear topsides, ready to work, out of nowhere. I suspect Erick has coached them because they were quiet, pleasant and thanked me for every meal. As for food, they liked the rice dishes and fruit. They had seconds of these dishes and they can pack away the food. They were not too interested in sweets such as muffins but did eat a bit of the chocolate that I had. According to Erick, they also like pasta. Remember, lunch is their main meal of the day. They appreciate water and Coke and enjoyed the orange juice I had.
SV SUMMERBREEZE followed in the wake of SV BRIGADOON III and found the notes super helpful.
SY BRIGADOON III Doug & Patty – Saga 43’ & MV SUMMERBREEZE 🇺🇸 Sam & Kurtis - Bestway 46'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR NOTES AND YOUR COMMUNITY SPIRIT WITH ONE ANOTHER!
ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND PART 1
ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND
PART 1: ISLA TABOGA
Cruisers visiting Panama find adventures on land and out on the water. Over the years Posse members have collectively seen so much of what the country has to offer. There are so many great adventures to chose from. A quick list includes: Isla Taboga, the mountain towns of Boquette and El Valle, the Canal Museum in Casco Viejo, the sloth sanctuary in the Gamboa Reserve, cruising the Coiba group, cruising the Perlas Islands, walking up Ancon hill overlooking Panama City, touring the Miraflores Lochs....and many many more. Part 1 of ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND will explore the interesting history and adventure opportunities at Isla Taboga, Panama.
Rich in historical significance and boasting a relaxed getaway charm, Isla Taboga is an excellent place to visit near Panama City. The island is so close to the city that there are multiple daily 30 minute ferries that bring people to and from the island for $17 round trip. People visit to enjoy the beach, restaurants, hotels, multiple hiking trails, and the history.
Isla Taboga was discovered in 1513 by the Spanish explorer Vasco Nunez de Balboa. Many subsequent explorers who crossed the Atlantic from Seville, Spain would disembark in what is now Portobello on the Caribbean coast of Panama, cross the isthmus of Panama on foot or by horseback until they reached Panama City. They would then board canoes to the galleons anchored off Taboga. Deep waters with good holding surround the island and made it an excellent place for large vessels to find safe harbor from which to explore and conquer new lands near and far.
Like the ships of old the same anchorage is used today by modern transporters awaiting passage through the Panama Canal.
Going back 500 years again: By 1524 Father Hernando de Luque founded a church in the center of town and christened the town San Pedro. The Church, while noted for being one of the oldest churches in the Western Hemisphere, is still standing and well cared for.
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In the late 1500’s the island was renamed Taboga. “Aboga” means “abundant fish” in the indigenous language of Taboga’s early inhabitants. In the 1500’s many of Taboga’s inhabitants on record were slaves from Venezuela and Nicaragua. The first Catholic saint of the Americas is said to have been born on the Island. There is a cross in her honor on a hilltop with a beautiful view. Today many people think of Taboga as the ”Island of Flowers” for all the flowers cascading over walls (from the most well maintained to the ancient, crumbling ones) and growing in the jungle. The island is 12 square km; town itself, like many on the nearby islands, is quite densely packed and surrounded by wild jungle.
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Today, one can travel along all the residential footpaths or in golf carts on the narrow streets in an afternoon and could spend days and days meandering through the jungle in search of treasure, wildlife, or relics of the past. |
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Treasure: Early prosperity turned Taboga into a target for piracy. In the 1600’s pirates became a formidable force in the area and Taboga was no stranger to their presence and pillaging. Infamous Pirate Henry Morgan among others is said to have sacked the island and used it as a base while attempting to sack Panama City and other nearby islands. Legend has it that there are ashes of pirates inside the walls of the church and treasures buried on the island. One can walk to a monument called Los Tres Cruzes to see the three graves of pirates that attempted to disturb the peace on Taboga. They lost their lives in the fight and have remained as a symbol to all who visit. Taboga is not to be sacked ever again. Wildlife: Taboga is a volcanic Island that rises above the sea with a dense and healthy tropical forest. While hiking through the forest we were treated to many (74) poison dart frog sightings, the smell of flowers, the sound of rain paddling the canopy overhead, the refreshing cool of mist hanging in the air slowly dripping down to the dark brown forest floor. On the highest peak we enjoyed being at eye level with the largest and smallest of birds, from the black headed vultures to bright green teeny-tiny hummingbirds. Relics of the past: In the 1840’s the Pacific Mail and Steamship Company set up a shipping company on Taboga thinking they would move mail and produce throughout the region. They ended up moving gold and gold diggers to and from California during the Gold Rush. There are remnants of their shipyard operation on Isla Morro which is connected to Taboga by a sand spit. In 1885 a medical center was built on the island while the French were making their attempt at the Panama Canal construction. Many workers would take ill and go to Tabogo for care and quarantine. While convalescing on Taboga, French painter Paul Gauguin, painted a scene of the bay that is appreciated to this day. Additionally, the US military build a base on the island during WWII. A bunker was built on the highest point with a 360 degree view that today offers a welcome breeze and incredible views of Taboga Bay, Panama City, the perlas Islands, and ships awaiting Canal transit. |
