MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

in 2017 UNESCO named Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia a world heritage site for its outstanding universal value, exceptional testimony to 1,000 years of pre-colonial mā'ohi civilization, and central location in the 'Polynesian Triangle'.  The 'points' on the Polynesian triangle are New Zealand, Hawaii, and Rapa Nui.  Taputapuātea is in the very center of this triangle of oceanic islands.  Both the cultural landscape and seascape on Ra’iātea make this a unique and remarkable place one must see.  Taputapuātea is an area that goes from the mountains through forested valleys spanning across a portion of lagoon and coral reef and a strip of open ocean.  In the center is the Marae of Taputapuātea.

The dark rectangular stone space is part of the Taputapuātea Marae complex: a political, ceremonial and funerary center on the edge of the lagoon surrounding the island. photo credit: P.F. Amar

The Marae of Taputapuātea is considered to be the most sacred pre-colonial Polynesian archeological sites in French Polynesia. UNESCO describes this site as:

"dedicated to the god ‘Oro and the place where the world of the living (Te Ao) intersects the world of the ancestors and gods (Te Po). It also expresses political power and relationships. The rise in the importance of Taputapuātea among the marae on Raiatea and in the wider region is linked to the line of Tamatoa ari’i (chiefs) and the expansion of their power. Taputapuātea was the centre of a political alliance that brought together two widespread regions encompassing most of Polynesia. The alliance was maintained by regular gatherings of chiefs, warriors and priests who came from the other islands to meet at Taputapuātea. The building of outrigger canoes and ocean navigation were key skills in maintaining this network.

A traditional landscape surrounds both sides of the Taputapuātea marae complex. The marae complex looks out to Te Ava Mo'a, a sacred pass in the reef that bounds the lagoon. Atāra motu is an islet in the reef and a habitat for seabirds. Ocean-going arrivals waited here before being led through the sacred pass and formally welcomed at Taputapuātea. On the landward side, ’Ōpo’a and Hotopu’u are forested valleys ringed by ridges and the sacred mountain of Tea’etapu. The upland portions of the valleys feature older marae, such as marae Vaeāra’i and marae Taumariari, agricultural terraces, archaeological traces of habitations and named features related to traditions of gods and ancestors. Vegetation in the valleys is a mix of species, some endemic to Raiatea, some common to other Polynesian islands and some imported food species brought by ancient Polynesians for cultivation. Together, the attributes of the property form an outstanding relict and associative cultural landscape and seascape."

Throughout Polynesia the Marae are communal or sacred sites in village life. In order to build a marae in another location, it is said that one must start with a stone from Taputapuātea.  The marae are places with different functions.   They are places where the world of the living intersected with the world of village ancestors and Polynesian gods.  They are places where people gather for ceremony, dance, connecting with the past and with community.

People gather in the Taputapuatea marae for ceremony.  photo credit GIE Tourisme

This video is a product of the cumulative effort of cultural and historical groups presenting the significance of Taputapuātea in the past, the present, and for the future.

https://youtu.be/wXbJXHR8-3g?t=391

People navigated to and from Taputapuatea in the past and continue today.  photo credit GIE Tourisme
Fishing in the waters of Taputapuatea is a part of traditional life.  photo credit: A. Wickel
Marine biodiverity in Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama
Coral shelf surrounding Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama

 

Mountains of Taputapuatea photo credit: P.F. Amar

SAFEFTY AND SECURITY: REDUCING FIRE RISK

SAFEFTY AND SECURITY: REDUCING FIRE RISK WITH SMART PLUGS

 

Many members of the Ocean Posse are tied to a dock either presently, have been, or will be at some point along the way.  If and when one decides to 'Plug In' it is important to know the risks and available safer options available today.

A significant risk when plugging one boat in to shore power is fire risk.  The power to the pedestals along a dock may not be consistent.  There may be surges, outages and or just regularly inconsistent flow of power.  This variability can pose a risk within the pedestal and worse it can pose a risk aboard ones vessel at the connection.

Recently, Posse members aboard SV SERENITY shared their experience with this risk on the Posse Line Ap.  It is a shout out to other member to be aware and check their power cords:

For those of you with 30 or 50 Amp power that get close to it’s limit on a continuous basis (e.g. running AC while cooking with electric).  For the second time in two years, our standard cable and socket shorted. This time, the insulation in the socket between hot and neutral melted and the wires actually touched. It’s worth the investment to prevent a fire hazard.

evidence of high heat
Insulation inside the socket melted

The only place one can control is where and how the power comes aboard their boat is one their boat.  Serenity has now installed a 'Smart Plug'.  This is a branded receptacle and plug for the boat side of the 'Plug In' process.  The Smart Plug is a huge help AND one still needs to check it for damage regularly as seen above!

With the Smart Plug one can replace the power inlet onboard.
One can also have a modified cord that plugs into the modified power inlet. This combination reduces the fire risk greatly.

SV SERENITY was lucky.  They lost a cord and a plug, but did not sustain any damage to their boat.  Years ago Posse Member, Rob Murray on SV AVANT, saw smoke billowing out of the stern of a neighboring vessel.  The fire had started at the cord inlet.  He acted fast and doused the fire before any help even arrived.  Here he shows a concise visual on the steps he took to get the fire out fast:

SYSERENITY 🇺🇸 Mark & Kathryn – Antares 44′ & SY AVANT 🇨🇦 Rob & Debra – Beneteau 43.5

THANK YOU FOR SHARING MARK AND ROB!


FIJIAN CULTURE AND THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

FIJI: THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

In traditional villages in Fiji Sevusevu is and has been the central component of all life-cycle rituals, social gatherings, healing ceremonies and community meetings.  Significant and ancient in Fiji, the “sevusevu” also marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village.

In more formal settings, Sevusevu includes a complete performance where each male from the village has a specific role to play. Traditional attire is worn with pride, collected rain water is poured from bamboo shafts, pounded kava is strained through hibiscus bark and each bilo (drinking bowl from the half-shell of a coconut) is delivered deliberately and seriously in absolute silence (aside from the sound of deep ‘Cobo’ claps in acceptance and thanks of each ‘bilo’)

Every Sevusevu is not as formal as pictured above however there is a distinct and courteous process visitors must follow.  Further, understanding the significance of Sevusevu, respecting, and adhering to the tradition of this process helps to keep this aspect of Fijian Culture strong.

Longtime Ocean Posse member Chris on SV SEAGLUB has been living in Fiji for several years.   He shares the following about his experience with the Sevesevu:

In Fiji, when visiting smaller settlements, a visitor must seek out the village chief and present him with a small token or gift as a sign of respect and to ask permission to visit. This not only gives visitors permission to interact with the villagers but also to stay in the town and to visit any local scenery (such as beaches, waterfalls etc). Not doing so shows disrespect for their culture, but is also the equivalent of trespassing – for example pitching a tent in someone's backyard without permission.

‘Sevusevu’ is the name given to the actual gift or token that visitors present the chief with, most commonly a half-kilo bumdle of waka (kava root).  When arriving in the village, visitors should ask for the Turaga ni Koro (pronounced as too-ranga nee koro) or the village headman, as they usually have good English skills and will help with the translations. The headman will take visitors to the chief’s house for introduction. Remember no hats are to be worn once in the village and you should take your shoes off at the door before entering houses. Sitting cross legged on the floor, the kava root is then presented to the chief.

To ensure you are respectful of this important tradition, there are a few points of etiquette to follow. Firstly, everyone at the ceremony should dress in a sulu, which is a Fijian skirt regarded as their national dress. Women should also cover their shoulders. Men should sit cross-legged, ensuring that their sulu covers their knees, and women should sit with knees and feet together. Do not take photographs or videos throughout the ceremony, until the Turaga ni Koro lets you know that it’s okay to do so. Silence during the ceremony itself is crucial.

The ceremony itself is poignant. Afterwards you'll be welcomed as nothing less than family.

SV SEAGLUB 🇺🇸 Chris -Hylas 46'

 

Anchorage in Fulaga, Fiji

 


First Aid Kit(s) for Cruising

First Aid Kit(s) for Cruising

Courtesy of  Rob Murray from SV AVANT

When we prepared Avant for offshore six years ago,  we looked carefully at what we would pack for first aid preparedness. We could easily imagine a wide range of scenarios where one or the other of us, or another cruiser or local, was injured (grievously), and needed first aid in an inconvenient, remote location. You know, unconscious bleeding from a compound fracture surrounded by crocodiles while darkness falls in some mangrove swamp, or something like that. We determined that:

  1. We needed to be able to react to a broad variety of potential medical emergencies quickly and comprehensively;
  2. That we would likely be short handed in responding (so the response would have to be easily transported by one person);
  3. That the emergency may happen aboard Avant, aboard another vessel, or ashore so we would need to be able to move the appropriate materials for response to the injured person, and then move the injured person from the site of the incident back to Avant or from the site of the incident to another place for treatment or evacuation;
  4. That we would be at least hours, and might be days or even weeks from professional medical facilities and professional medical help (so we would need enough supplies to treat issues for a prolonged period with instructions on how to use them);
  5. That there were ‘levels’ of response that would be appropriate, so segregating supplies into appropriate kits suited to different levels of response would make sense; and
  6. We would need reference materials suited to the kind of ‘medicine’ we would be practicing.

Before you carry on reading, please note that we’re over prepared. Period!

First, we looked for organizations that had worked systematically to solve this set of problems so we could emulate their methods and techniques. The military immediately came to mind, as they have applied science and rigour to responding to emergency medical situations in rustic locations (although they admittedly seem to focus on gunshot wounds and extreme blunt force trauma as the primary sources of injury). We also read up on mountaineering and other wilderness response experiences, and found the ‘prepper’ community had many guidelines, tips and resources that seemed useful. The Ministry of Transport in the UK also had relevant resources. While many sources suggested that buying supplies separately would be cheaper than buying a kit, we found the reverse to be true, and that the kits we looked at offered value as well as convenience.

So after our obsessive research, we equipped ourselves with a simple ‘boo-boo kit’ for day to day stuff.

Sample first aid kit.

This is the type of kit you see in a larger drug store, Costco, Walmart, or some other big box store. You can buy them online at Canadian Safety Supplies. They are also available from the Red Cross, St Johns Ambulance or similar organizations online. It’s portable, so we don’t have to drip blood on the way to the bandaids; soft sided so it’s easy to store, and reasonably comprehensive for small injuries. It unzips and flops open to display the contents when in use. There is plenty of room in the carry bag to augment the contents.

Kit Supplies

Supplies in this type of kit are usually similar to a list like this:

  • 12 plastic bandages, 1.9 cm x 7.6 cm (0.75 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 10 junior plastic bandages, 1 cm x 3.8 cm (0.4 in. x 1.5 in.)
  • 6 fabric bandages, 2.2 cm x 7.6 cm (0.9 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 2 large fabric bandages, 5.1 cm x 7.6 cm (2.0 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 3 knuckle fabric bandages, 3.8 cm x 7.6 cm (1.5 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 3 fingertip fabric bandages, 4.4 cm x 7.6 cm (1.7 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 5 butterfly skin closures, 1 cm x 4.4 cm  (0.4 in. x 1.7 in.)
  • 4 sterile gauze pads, 7.6 cm x 7.6 cm (3.0 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 2 sterile non-woven sponges, 7.6 cm x 7.6 cm (3.0 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 1 sterile abdominal pad 12.7 cm x 22.9 cm (5.0 in. x 9.0 in.)
  • 2 sterile Telfa, non-adherent pads, 5.1 cm x 7.6 cm (2.0 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 1 roll conforming stretch bandage, 5.1 cm x 180 cm (2.0 in. x 70.8 in.)
  • 1 roll conforming stretch bandage, 7.6 cm x 180 cm (3.0 in. x 70.8 in.)
  • 1 compress bandage, 10.2 cm x 10.2 cm (4 in. x 4 in.)
  • 1 Woundseal topical powder
  • 1 non-compressed, triangular bandage, 101.6 cm x 101.6 cm x 142.2 cm (40 in. x 40 in. x 56 in.)
  • 1 package of assorted safety pins
  • 4 sterile cotton-tipped applicators, 7.6 cm (3.0 in.)
  • 2 individually wrapped tongue depressors, 1.9 cm x 15.2 cm (0.7 in. x 6.0 in.)
  • 1 roll clear plastic tape, 2.5 cm x 140 cm (1 in. x 55.1 in.)
  • 1 roll elastic compression bandage, 7.6 cm x 170 cm (3.0 in. x 66.9 in.)
  • 16 antiseptic towelettes
  • 12 alcohol antiseptic swabs
  • 3 Bacitracin antibiotic ointment, 1 g (0.04 oz.) each
  • 2 Water-Jel, 3.5 g (0.12 oz.) each
  • 1 eye dressing pad
  • 1 large instant cold pack
  • 3 After Bite treatment swabs
  • 1 St. John’s Ambulance pocket guide, bilingual
  • 1 paramedic scissors
  • 1 pair of nickel-plated, blunt end splinter forceps
  • 1 package of splinter out
  • 2 Nitrile, medical examination gloves
  • 1 CPR face shield with filtered valve
  • 2 antimicrobial hand towelettes
  • 6 hand cleansing moist towelettes
  • Hand sanitizer
  • 1 infectious waste bag
  • 2 thermometers
  • 1 foil/Mylar emergency blanket, 142.2 cm x 203.2 cm (56 in. x 80 in.)
  • 2 candles
  • Waterproof tipped matches
  • Purified drinking water, 125 ml (4.3 oz.)
  • 2 plastic bandages, 1.9 cm x 7.6 cm (0.75 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 5 junior plastic bandages, 1 cm x 3.8 cm (0.4 in. x 1.5 in.)
  • 2 fabric bandages, 2.2 cm x 7.6 cm (0.9 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 1 knuckle fabric bandage, 3.8 cm x 7.6 cm (1.5 in. x 3.0 in.)
  • 1 fingertip fabric bandage, 4.4 cm x 5.1 cm (1.7 in. x 2.0 in.)
  • 2 sterile gauze pads, 5.1 cm x 5.1 cm (2.0 in. x 2.0 in.)
  • 2 antiseptic towelettes
  • 2 alcohol antiseptic swabs
  • 1 Bacitracin antibiotic ointment, 1 g (0.04 oz.)
  • 2 After Bite treatment swabs
  • 1 fist aid response card, bilingual
  • 2 hand cleansing moist towelettes

We added to the kit with:

  • Some tincture of Benzoin for pre swabbing where you want Bandaids to stick (that stuff is magic),
  • A big box of assorted Bandaids,
  • Extra medical tape, various widths,
  • Quality tweezers for dealing with slivers,
  • Extra antiseptic wipes,
  • Extra gloves,
  • Extra antibiotic ointment,
  • Saline and syringes for wound washing,
  • Eyedroppers.

This is stored within easy reach in the head, and we hope to never exceed the treatment these supplies will support.

This represents our first tier response. Small cut, burn, sliver, blister, ‘boo-boo’, something like that; everything we need to deal with it can be grabbed and delivered, to the person with the ouch, quickly.

Then, for when things get over the top, a major SHTF (SHTF is an acronym for ‘excrement – mechanized ventilator collision’) kit, similar to what you can purchase online at Live Action Safety, based on a medical bag designed and apparently used in the military. If you google for ‘m17 first aid kit’ or ‘fa110 first aid kit’ you will find something similar. Different vendors supply kits with different contents, so do shop around.

SHTF first aid kit

It can be carried by a shoulder strap or backpack style, and opens in three folds exposing six zippered compartments that allow access to contents in use. There is plenty of room in the carry bag to augment the contents. It’s about 13.5” long by 10”wide and 16” tall stowed or folded up for transport, and unfolded to expose the interior compartments, the bag measures about 36” long by 10” wide.

The contents of these typically look like this:

  • 5 – Bleed Stop Bandages
  • 4 – Sterile Pads, 4″x4″
  • 2 – Triangular Bandage
  • 2 – Ammonia Inhalants
  • 2 – Suture Sets
  • 2 – Stainless Steel hemostats
  • 1 – Tweezers
  • 10 – Abdominal Pads, 5″x9″
  • 2 – Airways
  • 10 – Butterfly Strips
  • 5 – Tape, Rolls, Adhesive, 1″
  • 1 – EMT Shears, 7.25″
  • 5 – Multi Trauma Dressings
  • 1 – EFA First Aid Book
  • 14 – Pain Relievers/Aspirin
  • 6 – Pairs Latex Examination Gloves
  • 15 – Antiseptic BZK Wipes
  • 2 – Burn Aid Packages
  • 15 – Iodine Wipes
  • 1 – Tourniquet (Basic Rubber Latex)
  • 12 – Elastic bandage 2”
  • 100 – Bandage Strips, 1”x3”
  • 2 – Elastic Bandages, 6″
  • 1 – Pen Light
  • 1 – CPR Mask
  • 1 – Hand Sanitizer 2 oz
  • 4 – Triple Antibiotic Packages
  • 1 – Scalpel Handle #3
  • 2 – Scalpel Blades
  • 2 – Eye Pads
  • 6 – Safety Pins
  • 1 – stethoscope
  • 1 -Skin and Eye Wash
  • 10 – Knuckle Bandages
  • 3 – Instant Ice Packs
  • 1 – Calamine Lotion, 6 oz.
  • 2 – Tongue Depressors
  • 6 – After Bite Wipes
  • 1 – SAM Type Universal Splint
  • 1 – Hand Soap
  • 15 – Alcohol Wipes
  • 10 – Sterile Pads, 2″x2″
  • 1 – Skin Probe
  • 1 – Burn Spray
  • 1 – Lip Treatment
  • 4 – First Aid Cream Packages
  • 3 – Petroleum jelly
  • 1 – Box of 100 Cotton Tips
  • 15 – Clean Wipes
  • 2 – Pill Bottles

We topped up/overfilled the kit with:

  • More gauze (lots more gauze),
  • More triangular bandages,
  • More safety pins (dollar store),
  • Extra medical tape, various widths,
  • More BZK and Alcohol wipes,
  • Package of ‘Wet-ones’ cleaning wipes (for cleaning around wounds),
  • Crazy glue (stitch substitute),
  • CAT tourniquet, similar to this one,
  • Several quick-clot stop bleeding bandages,
  • An extra SAM Splint,
  • A headlamp,
  • A flashlight,
  • Lots of extra gloves,
  • A couple of space blankets,
  • Duct tape (three or four 25’ lengths rolled on golf pencils),
  • Big orange garbage bags (ground cover/rain cover/blood catcher)
  • A few wound treatment/dressing change trays, similar to this one  (mostly for convenience, these are most everything you need for immediate treatment or re-dressing of a more than ‘boo boo’ issue in a single sterile kit, super easy to grab and use),
  • A couple of surgical staplers, similar to this one,
  • A ‘surgery’ kit, similar to this one,
  • Saline solution for wound cleaning,
  • Hydrogen peroxide,
  • 90% Isopropyl alcohol,
  • Syringes for wound cleaning,
  • Eyedroppers,
  • Eyewash bottle,
  • Cervical collar,
  • A selection of Catheters,
  • Some spray on ‘Bandage’ material,
  • Some ‘second skin’ for burns or blisters.
  • Finger splints,
  • Finger cots,
  • Other things we generally thought were a good idea while browsing in the first aid section.

All contents were repackaged as we saw appropriate in heavy duty Ziplock freezer bags. We made sure everything in the boo-boo kit was replicated in the SHTF list so we would not need to bring both.

We looked at the larger, upscale adventure medical kits and more current issue military kits (fa138 or fa140) for inspiration on what to add, although the price of these scared us off and there did not seem to be a huge difference in the actual supply of contents.

We also carry a couple of burn treatment kits like these ones you can get at Canadia Safety Supplies (two because they’re mostly consumables and the kits were cheaper than buying more of the contents). One in the SHTF kit, one in the head next to the boo-boo kit.

These contain burn specific treatments, usually a bill of materials something like this:

  • 1 Burn Dressing – 5.1 x 15.2 cm (2″ x 6″)
  • 1 Burn Dressing – 10.1 x 10.1 cm (4″ x 4″)
  • 1 Burn Gel Bottle 59gr (2 oz)
  • 6 Burn Gel Packet 3.5ml (1/8 oz)
  • 1 Conforming Stretch Gauze Bandage Roll – 10.1cm (4″)
  • 1 Vinyl Medical Examination Gloves, Powder Free (Pair)
  • 1 Paramedic Bandage Scissors 5.5″
  • 1 Roll of first aid tape – 1.25cm x 4.5m (1/2″ x 5yd)
  • 2 Cotton Tip Applicators, Sterile – 6″ [1]
  • 1 Nylon bag with carry handle

After getting the appropriate (we hope) response materials to the injured person, the problem then becomes getting the injured person to the appropriate place (aboard, ashore, whatever).

To solve this problem, we got a SKEDCO stretcher.  Basically a semi-flexible sheet of some kind of HDPE with straps that roll it over on the edges and foot to transform it into a surprisingly rigid stretcher that tightly controls and constrains the enclosed patient.

According to the Sked company, these are “equipped for horizontal hoisting by helicopter or vertical hoisting in caves or industrial confined spaces. When the patient is packaged, the stretcher becomes rigid. The durable plastic provides protection for the patient while allowing extrication through the most demanding confined spaces. The stretcher is rolled for storage in a tough cordura backpack, which is included with the system.” The design and materials allow it to be carried or dragged as terrain and personnel allow, and it stows in a very small space (about 30” long and 8” in diameter).

We packaged this with an Oregon Spine Splint (OSS). According to the company that makes it, the “OSS II provides for safe removal of patients from injury sites without doing further damage to the spine. The unique criss-crossing shoulder strap design provides superior immobilization without restricting breathing and, for clavical fractures, can be re-configured to retract and immobilize the shoulders. The OSS II is designed to provide easy access to the patient’s chest or abdominal area for treatment or diagnostic procedures. It can be used in place of a conventional short backboard and as a hip or leg splint.”

While these items cost a fortune new, they often show up as cheap army surplus on eBay. We got the Sked and OSS for less than ~$250 Canadian for the set on eBay. As an added bonus, the packaging was an attractive camouflage, and it was already dirty! The spine splint stores inside the stretcher. They are designed to be easy to transport when empty with a shoulder strap or backpack style and easy to carry or drag when loaded. We keep this stored under a berth.

We also considered modifying one or some of the under berth plywood supports to make traditional long boards and spine boards like those in the diagram, but decided to go the Sked route instead. (Pretty easy to do with a hole saw, jig saw, some epoxy and wood for the runners and time. Just add some straps and padding and you’re good to go. You can leave them wide as long as the holes for the straps are in the right places.)

So if we have to respond to an off-board emergency, everything is waterproof, floats, is man-portable and easy to transport. The Sked stretcher (with the Oregon Spine Splint inside) and SHTF kit carry bags also have six foot 1/2” three strand nylon lanyards and snaps spliced to them to augment their backpack style cases and shoulder straps for securing/transporting.

We don’t have a dedicated dental kit, but we do have OraGel topical painkiller, oil of cloves, 5 minute epoxy and crazy glue, so I think we can fake it. It’s stored in the head cabinet.

For medication, we have a list similar to what you see on the Safety and Seamanship Resources from the Cruising Club of America. We store it separately from the other stuff as it goes off after a few years and isn’t needed with the same urgency as, for example, a bandage or splint. I think you can always wait 30-60 min for antibiotics. We have found these types of antibiotic easily available over the counter and inexpensive in Mexico or other Central American countries. We don’t carry any serious pain killers, as opioids can cause trouble with customs. We’re strictly over the counter on pain medication.

While we have taken first aid courses over the years, they won’t have taught us everything we might need to know and we may have forgotten a few things over time, so we keep some reference materials at hand. We have e-copies of:

  • The Ship Captain’s Medical Guide
  • Where there is no doctor’,
  • Where there is no dentist’, and
  • a paper copy of ‘Marine Medicine, A Comprehensive Guide’, by Eric A. Weiss, M.D. and Michael Jacobs, M.D.
  • Military first aid manuals are surprisingly comprehensive, googling for the “Special Operations Forces Medical Handbook” or the “Ranger Medic Handbook” or similar titles can get you some very useful manuals that have comprehensive suggested packing lists for remote areas.

These are more suited to longer term or more remote care, as most first aid or medical books are written with the idea that you will be tended to by professionals within 20-30 minutes of injury. These books assume you’re under the care of your shipmates for hours or even days, and don’t assume a lot (or any) medical training.

Other goods we have now learned to carry include anti fungal creams (don’t ask, yes you want this aboard), a couple of extra litres of hydrogen peroxide and a couple of extra litres of 90% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning (while discredited in current practice as too aggressive, these traditional disinfectants work and have their place), iodine for disinfecting, and cortisone cream for bites/rashes.

Annual maintenance is simply changing the batteries in the flashlights and headlamps, and making sure nothing has burst or leaked. (Editors note: if using a zippered bag to store your first aid kit, clean and lube the zippers at least once a year.  Zippers tend to get crusty in the salty environment of your boat and the last thing you want is a first aid kit that won’t open when you need it).  While most supplies have expiry dates, on things like gauze, we ignore them, and on medication we are perhaps a bit liberal. We think that the efficacy of medication may decline a bit past the due date, but it doesn’t stop working, so we let most medications stay aboard longer than the best before dates suggest.

Worst problem so far? Pinched finger needing a bandaid. Ouch!


STORIES FROM DISTANCE SHORES

STORIES FROM DISTANT SHORES

Full sails down heading out for a new adventure

Steve, from SV Wine N Down, has had many sailing adventures.  He did a loop from Fort Lauderdale to the Caribbean, the Leeward / Windward Islands, Grenada and back.  Then he sailed to Mexico, Belize, Panama to the San Francisco Bay.   Now he is off anew on another voyage.  Here he shares about their new adventure:

We are happy to be back out to sea.  Our current trip so far: Right now, my three buddies and I are on a fishing adventure. Our lady friends/wife’s are flying in and meeting us at different locations throughout our planned four trips.

  • Trip one will include our departure from SF on September 1 and ending in Long Beach. I need to return to Sonoma temporarily for grape and olive harvest time.
  • Trip two will take us to La Paz, Mexico, with lots of fishing planned.
  • Trip three will take us across the Sea of Cortez, with many stops along the way.
  • Trip four should put us in for a stop in Puerto Vallarta and with a final home base in Barra de Navidad by around February 1st.

The adventure continues.

Fishing is off to a great start off the coast of California

Here’s to Great Fishing!

Happy Captain

Pelicans on the Jetty in Half Moon Bay.

Steve says, “It’s all about taking our time and enjoying everything about cruising and enjoying our beautiful planet.”

SV WINE N DOWN  🇺🇸  Steve & Crew – Leopard 58′

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR JOY STEVE!

Ocean Posse Members, please share your stories by sending them to editor@oceanposse.com.

Maurisa, the editor, is always happy to receive your stories and share them out.  Together we can inspire one another!

 


LOGISTICAL PREPARATIONS

LOGISTICAL PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING HOME WATERS AND ENTERING NEW COUNTRIES

Certain Papers are required for entering and exiting new countries. Be Prepared.
Roatan Port Captains' office.

Leaving ones home waters and entering a new country is certainly a big change and there are many essential details not to forget.  Checklists are handy tools for preparing for Entry and Exit Requirements.  Beyond the obvious boat essentials like checking your systems, having safety equipment onboard, topping your fluids, and changing your zincs, please see the checklist below for details not to be forgotten when setting out on a long distance voyage with the Ocean Posse.

  • If an EPIRB is onboard a US flagged vessel, register it with the NOAA.  Before leaving confirm that all information is current.  This includes vessel name, your primary phone number, emergency contact name/s and address/es: https://beaconregistration.noaa.gov/RGDB/registrationRequirements
  • A Ship Stations License is required by the FCC for travelling in international territories: https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/maritime-mobile/ship-radio-stations/ship-radio-stations
  • Make sure the MMSI number of your vessel is registered in your name: https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/maritime-mobile/ship-radio-stations/maritime-mobile
  • Have your boat documentation or registration up to date and in order.  NOTE: most countries (and the Panama Canal Authorities) are requiring international navigation documentation indicating nationality and ownership over state registration.  Check with your destination country.
  • If the boat is documented or registered in the name of someone not present or the name of a business or organization: a letter notarized by the documented vessel owner authorizing the captain and crew to be operating the vessel is required to enter other countries (and transit the Panama Canal).  It is imperative to have both the original and copies of all notarized documents.
  • Depending on the country you enter you will buy a Temporary Import Permit which allows the vessel to enter the country.  This is an important document to keep with the vessel the entire time in the country of entry.  This document is also required upon exiting many countries.
  • Current passport for everyone onboard ideally good for the duration of your stay abroad.
  • Many countries require a Crew List upon entry which states everyone onboard, their Date of Birth, their rank on the vessel and their passport number.
  • If navigating into Mexico, Mexican Liability Insurance is required to Navigate in Mexican waters.
  • If navigating in Mexico, the captain is required to show a boaters education card, ASA certification, or a captains license upon exiting the country.
  • Outside of the United States, when exiting one country and entering another you will need an authorized document of exit (called a zarpe throughout Central America) from one country in order to enter the next country.
  • Wherever you go along the route, be prepared for entry and exit requirements and seasonal changes.

It is not entirely uncommon for requirements to vary port to port.  The best practice is to be prepared with everything and not be asked for them than to be asked for something you do not have.

Adventure calls.

 


THREE GREAT STOPS EN ROUTE TO THE KICK OFF PARTY

THREE WEST COAST DESTINATIONS 
 JUST SOUTH FROM THE WEST COAST OF THE USA

EN ROUTE TO SEASON 8
KICK OFF PARTY IN BARRA

After clearing into Mexico in Ensenada, we raised our courtesy flag and continued south.

The Ocean Posse highly recommends checking into Mexico in Ensenada as opposed to Isla Cedros.  Mainly, if you are looking for a more efficient check-in, Ensenada has localized, reliable office hours and staffing in comparison to Isla Cedros.  Either way, once your vessel and crew are cleared in you are free to begin voyaging the Mexican coast at your leisure.  While making your way to the Season 8 Kick Off Party in Barra De Navidad, Mexico there are many incredible destinations along the way.  3 destinations are highlighted below: Islas San Benito del Oeste, Man of War Cove (or Puerto Magdalena in Bahia Magdalena), and Isla Isabela.

Each incredible.  Each unique.  Each only accessible by boat.

DESTINATION 1: Islas San Benito del Oeste, 🇲🇽 Mexico  

Latitude: 28°18.11N  Longitude: 115° 34.66

isla san benito
View of Isla San Benito del Oeste, MX from the southern anchorage.

The Islas San Benito is a group of three small islets that lie in the Pacific Ocean off the west coast of the Baja Peninsula, about 225nm SE of Ensenada and 55nm NW of Bahia Turtugas.  The islands are surrounded by rocks and patches of algae so careful watch is required. Many birds and marine mammals are on, along, and surrounding these shores.  There is a small community on the island; the 2001 census recorded a population of two people in Benito del Oeste The other islands are not inhabited.  There is a cooperative abalone aquafarm there worked by people from nearby islands.  If you are lucky enough to have the weather window to drop your hook, do not miss the chance.

Neighboring Isla Cedros at Sunrise.

DESTINATION 2: Man of War Cove (or Puerto Magdalena in Bahia Magdalena) 🇲🇽 

Latitude: 24°38.918'N  Longitude: 112°08.013W

Man of War Cove (or Puerto Magdalena) is merely the beginning of the wonder that is Bahia Magdalena.  After spending time on the ocean along the pacific side of the Baja, turning into the expansive and protective bay of Bahia Magdalena is quite a sight.  Bahia Magdalena is all but cut off from the ocean by a varied stretch of long, narrow, tall barrier islands.  Inside the 325 square mile bay there are expansive estuaries, sand dunes, and mangroves that a wide variety of wildlife call home.  Northern Grey Whales migrate there annually from January to April to breed and have their calves.  Bahia Magdalena is their sanctuary and it is a truly special place to enter into.  In the small village of Puerto Magdalena one may find a small tienda with light provisions.  There are multiple options in the larger town of San Carlos further east into the bay.

man of war cove mexico
Big boats are safely anchored off the village of Puerto Magdalena in the background as we dinghy tour up the nearby estuary.
The sand dunes in Magdalena Bay are great for running off your sea legs.

DESTINATION 3: Isla Isabel  🇲🇽 Mexico

21° 50.4960' N, 105° 52.9730' W

isla isabella
Blue footed boobies court, mate, and nest on Isla Isabella.

Crossing ESE from the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula, Isla Isabella is a small island found 15nm off mainland Mexico south of Mazatlan.  This island is a bird sanctuary that some people refer to as the Galapagos of Mexico.  The island is teaming with blue footed boobies, frigate birds, and iguanas.  The near shore waters are frequented by humpback whales and dolphins and home to a myriad of small fish.  The island can be explored on foot on multiple trails, in the water with a snorkel mask, or along the tide line at low tide.  There are three main anchorages each providing protection from a different wind and sea states and yet the island is a small isolated offshore island so getting a weather window to stop and enjoy Isla Isabella is an opportunity to be thankful for.  It is definitely unforgettable.

isla isabella
Frigate birds overlooking tide pools and the southern anchorage on Isla Isabella.
Ilsa Isabella is in Good Nautical
Isla Isabella is on Good Nautical.

https://goodnautical.com/mexico-pacific/anchorage/isla-isabella


POSSE PERK: 📹 Free Video EDUCATIONAL Seminars

POSSE PERK: 📹 Free Live & Video

EDUCATIONAL

Navigation Software Open CPN Seminars

opencpn

A huge Posse Perk is access to both live and recorded seminars on a variety of relevant cruising topics.  Of particular relevance are the navigational seminars related to using OPEN CPN for navigation.   Open CPN allows you access to multiple views (from different satellite views to different charts) of one location in one location.  One can plan routes and load in weather files among other capabilities.  There is a lot to learn in order to use Open CPN to it's potential which is why the Ocean Posse offers educational seminars.

LIVE Navigational Cruising Seminars coming up in San Diego:

  1. Open CPN - installation and integration (PC + MAC )
  2. Weather Weather Weather – planning – routing – underway
  3. Open CPN – Satellite Charts – Use Cases and Satellite Chart creation
  4. Chart Accuracy, Navigation Trips and Tricks & Tracking

Navigational seminars currently available to Ocean Posse members online:

  1. OPEN CPN MAKE CHARTS
  2. CREATE .MBTILES WITH SASPLANET
  3. OPEN CPN WITH ROB FROM AVANT OCT 23
  4. ADVANCED SAT2CHART: MAKE GOOGLE EARTH CHART OVERLAYS WITH PAUL HIGGINS
  5. OPEN CPN USE CASE

Posse members can click on this link to log into the site to view all these and more.

In Open CPN one can plan routes, record tracks, export and import tracks.

MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park, Dominica

MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park,

Dominica 🇩🇲

Location of Morne Trois Pitons

Morne Trois Pitons National Park is on the Island of Dominica in the southeastern Caribbean Sea.  The volcanic island is quite heavily forested and mountainous, rich in water and fertile soil, and still has a number of (rarely) active volcanoes, volcanic vents, bubbling mud ponds, and hot springs.  The National Park was established by the Dominican government in 1975 and made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 for its uniquely stunning geologic (volcanic) formations, its biodiversity, and its huge stores of water.  Nearly all the headwaters of the streams and rivers that hydrate and power the southern half of the Island begin in Morne Trois Pitons National Park.

Waterfall into Emerald Pool in Morne Trois Pitons National Park
Boiling Lake is steaming HOT!

The National Park encompasses a lake called Boiling Lake, so named for the gasses that bubble from beneath it and keep the water temperature to over 95 degrees Celsius.  The mountainous landscape is punctuated by three main peaks (hence Trois Pitons) that are steep and rugged with waterfalls, freshwater lakes, and a huge variety of flaura and fauna, several endemic to Dominica.

blue headed hummingbird pollinates rain or shine.
Dense tropical flora boast rare Caribbean habitats including elfin/cloud forest
The Mountain Chicken frog of Dominica is capable of reaching up to 1kg in weight.

Preserving Wildlife is important to this Island nation that considers nature prime importance to their survival and food security.  In addition to abundant fruit, The Mountain Chicken frog was once considered the nation's unofficial national dish.  A decline in their numbers led to conservation efforts including hunting season regulations and scientific attention.  However, no amount of regulations can hold back mother nature and both a soil borne fungus and a volcanic eruption resulted in significant reduction in many amphibious animals including the Mountain Chicken.  Therefore, in spite of conservation efforts, their species numbers have continued to decline and they are on the brink of extinction.  As of November 2023 scientists believe there were 30 known Mountain Chicken Frogs left.

There is hope in that Dominica has actually made tremendous strides that offer hope to the survival of the species identifying genes of resiliency that can be treated to eliminate the fungus illness in the frogs.  Time will tell.

 


Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest: Hazards and Resources

Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest:

Hazards and Resources

By Rob and Debra Murray from SV AVANT as previously published in Currents Magazine


About the Hazards

As you set out on your sail to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest, there are numerous hazards you will encounter. For most, the only defense is a good watch.

Fishing Boats

Most vessels inshore are commercial fishing boats, and many do not use AIS, so other fishermen don’t know where they are fishing. At night, they usually light up like stadiums hosting a World Cup game and are easy to spot. They tend to congregate on offshore banks or directly offshore from ports on the coast. Some fishermen have begun using AIS beacons on fishing gear, which is a bonus.

Debris

Floating debris, especially logs, can be an issue, particularly during or immediately following heavy rains or large tides, and especially off of larger rivers or inlets.

Crab Pots

Crab pots are endemic. While there has been an effort to create a crab pot free zone down the coast, its observance is marginal and equipment drifts into the the lanes anyways. The consortium that manages the lanes hasn’t met to update the agreement since 2017.  Note that in areas subject to strong current, commercial crabbers will generally use two buoys, one to hold the line up and a second on a further 10 feet or so of line that will still be visible and retrievable, even when the first buoy has been pulled under by the current. It’s easier to tangle a buoy in your prop if the current is slack and both buoys are lying idle on the surface.

Bars

Of course, everyone worries about the dreaded ‘bar crossings’ that may be encountered. After all, they do call the Columbia Bar the ‘Graveyard of the Pacific’, right? But if you’re crossing at a slack or flood in weather that isn’t horrible, none of the bar crossings are difficult. In Avant’s passage down the coast, we entered Astoria (the aforementioned ‘graveyard of the Pacific’), Coos Bay and Humboldt Bay/Eureka (widely considered the second worst bar crossing), and had no trouble at all. Our timing had us arriving at each bar on or near slack water, with a slight edge to the flood tide. Many mariners recommend using the last of the flood tide as the optimum time for a bar crossing, when the water is deepest. Waves at each entrance were under two feet, and the period was long, as predicted by the forecasts we sailed under. Charting was universally excellent.

Each harbour with a bar has a coast guard station that can offer advice, an up-to-the-minute bar report, and will even send out a cutter or other boat to guide you in if conditions warrant (we availed ourselves of this at Coos Bay when visibility dropped to under 200’). If you get caught out by a closed bar, you just have to gut it out until the bar reopens, but with modern weather forecasts and a modicum of planning,

 

this is highly unlikely. (Note that the coast guard definition of a ‘small craft’ in bar closing advisories is a vessel under 65’ in length.)

Available Resources

The following resources can make this specific passage more pleasant and perhaps less challenging:

Weather Information

No doubt you have attended courses, read books, downloaded software, studied weather patterns, learned how to download a variety of GRIBs, receive weather faxes, decode 500mb charts, toss chicken bones and generally worked really hard to prepare for cruising by becoming your own expert weather forecaster. Well, on this trip, those skills can be used for entertainment value or simply allowed to rest. (Don’t worry, you will use those skills south of the USA/Mexico border).

weather forecast zones: inshore and offshore

The NOAA forecasters are as good as it gets, and there are dedicated teams in each of Washington, Oregon and Northern California working around the clock to deliver the most accurate weather forecast possible. These forecasts are available via VHF on the usual WX channels to a considerable range offshore (usually at least 50 miles, often 100+). The forecast zones extend to 250 miles offshore in discrete steps, and the forecast zones are quite small. In addition to the forecast, each weather office provides a ‘discussion’, which underscores the reasons for the forecast offered, how the models informed (or did not inform) the forecasts, what’s likely to follow the forecast period, and any other juicy tidbits the forecaster(s) think might be interesting. You can find the discussion by going to the forecasting office’s webpage and looking for the ‘discussion’ button.

If you want to ‘play along’ with the forecaster, you can download the GRIBs (GFS and NDFD editions) and see if you get the same conclusions.

Live and near live weather observations are also available from the national weather service by finding the ‘observations’ button on the left side of the forecast page. These vary in frequency from every few hours to live, depending on location and observation station type. There are dozens of these between Neah Bay and San Francisco.

Enjoy the weather forecasts. They end at the Mexico USA border and it becomes far more basic there.

Wave Patterns

Waves offshore contribute substantially to the (dis)comfort the crew experience on the passage. Aboard Avant, we have found waves change character at depths of about 60m/200’. When the depths we sail in are under 60m, the waves seem to have a different character, a more insistent vertical component, than they do in greater depths. We always aim to be in depths greater than 60m/200’ whenever possible. When closing the coast, expect waves to ‘feel’ stronger, even if they are not visibly any bigger. Also when closing the coast, watch for secondary wave trains from reflections off shorelines where the shores are steep to, or a change in wave direction where a wave train may wrap a point or headland. And there are also outliers such as this one.

Generally, wave height has very little to do with discomfort aboard; it is the ratio of wave height to period that creates difficulty. When waves are ‘square’ (wave height in feet = wave period in seconds), no one will have any fun aboard, whether the waves are 3’ or 8’ high. We choose not to sail in square waves. When the period extends to 1.5x the wave height, conditions become much more tolerable. When the period is 2x or greater wave height, the gentle rise and fall is barely noticeable after a while.

When traveling with the wave train, the apparent period will be longer, and when traveling against the wave train the apparent period will be shorter. Take this into account when evaluating wave predictions.

Guidebooks

The NOAA Coast Pilot 7 is a free download and covers the coast from Neah Bay to the Mexican border. You will want to read chapter three, and use chapters seven to thirteen in reverse order as you transit south. This volume, over 700 pages, is a comprehensive mariners guide to the coast, its character, and its hazards. It is updated weekly, so make sure you have the latest edition downloaded.

There are commercial cruising guides available for the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, but we found they added little to what the Coast Pilot provided for free.

The USCG has produced a general bar crossing guide with lots of relevant information. Individual bar crossing guides are available as well, and some can be found on this list. The following bar crossing guides (in pdf format) provide specific information about hazards for each bar crossing:

US Coast Guard

The US Coast Guard is a highly professional military search and rescue operation, and operates multiple stations up and down the coast. From late May through Labor Day, they also operate a number of seasonal stations, some located on the jetties surrounding bar crossings. They can be reached by VHF or by telephone (numbers are in the Coast Pilot, or on their website. Note them down before you go). Their VHF coverage is typically at least 25-50 miles offshore, and we found cell coverage was passable at 8-10 miles offshore and excellent at 5. It is ALWAYS worth calling by VHF or cell phone to get a bar forecast before committing to crossing any bar on the coast.

Charts

NOAA charts (both raster and vector) are free downloads and can be used in navigation programs like OpenCPN. They are frequently updated, and OpenCPN has a chart downloader that will automatically update your electronic charts directly from NOAA. Proprietary e-chart sets like C-Map or Navionics are also updated, but not as frequently. Like milk, bread and beer, charts are best fresh, so do use the free resources to ensure you have the most up to date information aboard. Paper charts for backup can be purchased individually, or you can get a ‘chart book’ that covers large sections of the coast. We elected to do the latter, buying two MAPTECH Chartbooks that covered the coast from the Canadian border to the Mexican border.

SY AVANT 🇨🇦 Rob & Debra – Beneteau 43.5