SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS
IN THE END,
WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT
Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific. They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences. Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:
SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600
THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!
EVERY SEASON STARTS WITH THE ROAR OF THE HOWLER MONKEY
EVERY SEASON STARTS WITH
THE ROAR OF THE HOWLER MONKEY
Like the sound of the conch sounding as the sun meets the horizon pronouncing the beginning of sunset,
the Ocean Posse likes to start every season with the roar of the Howler Monkey.
Watch this video to hear the loudest mammal above ground roar at it - you can hear them 3 nm through then densest of jungles. Howlers are stoutly built bearded monkeys with a hunched appearance and thickly furred tails that are naked on the underside of the tip to afford a better grip. The hair is long and dense and, depending on species, is typically black, brown, or red.
Endemic to the southern tip of Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, and Colombia - the howler monkey is an endangered species but shall not go quietly into the night!
NAUTICAL MEASUREMENTS
NAUTICAL MEASUREMENTS:
ONE SHOT AT A TIME
By Mike Descheemaeker of SV WHIRLWIND
The nautical mile, not to be confused with the statute mile, is the basis for ocean navigation ... but why?
I thought it would be fun to explore the different nautical words and the variations of actual lengths and depths of different forms of sea people measurements. The 'knot', the 'fathom', the 'cable', the 'shot', the 'shackle' are all different ways to look at length, distance, and speed. In our modern way of navigating our vessels many of these expressions have really become archaic and less important to the modern navigator. Nonetheless, a general idea of there usages and their origins is quite interesting.
THE KNOT: UNRAVELLED
Obviously, we all are familiar with the knot as a measurement of speed. One nautical mile per hour is equivalent to one knot. The nautical mile deals directly with measuring a curved surface. From my trusty Celestial Navigation: A Step By Step Procedure For The Complete Idiot I will borrow this excellent description of measurement:
“We measure straight lines by inches, feet and statute miles. 12 inches equals one foot, 5,280 feet equals one statute mile. We measure angles and arcs by seconds, minutes and degrees, 60 seconds equals one minute, 60 minutes equals one degree and 360 degrees equals one complete circle.”
So because the earth is a big round sphere it is measured using minutes of arc. If we take the 360 degrees the sun appears to travel around the earth each day and divide by 24, the sun appears to travels 15 degree of arc every hour or 900 miles per hour. This rapid speed rotation of the earth makes the sun appear to move. 900 (miles/hour) times 24 (hours/day) is 21,600 miles/day...the entire circumference of the earth sees the sun each day. To check the numbers another way, one can multiply 360 degrees times 60 minutes of arc to get 21,600 minutes. One minute of arc is equivalent to one nautical mile based on the circumference of our planet.
The term knot to designate speed derived from the common log used on board sailing ships beginning in the 17th century. A spool of knotted line was lowered over the stern with a wooden triangle attached to the end upon release it was timed with an hour glass the number of knots that came out in the time on the glass was how many knots or nautical miles per hour the the ship was traveling thru the water.
THE FATHOM: UNVEILED
As mariners gathered information underway like their speed in combination with a dead reckoning and a noon site hopefully every day, the ancient mariner could keep a pretty good idea of their place on earth. Knowing one's location on the earth is of great importance and so is knowing how much water is under the keel. This notion of depth was traditionally expressed in fathoms. This word came from various ancient languages in what is now Europe and the Mediterranean. A fathom meant outstretched arms or about six feet. This measurement could vary from five to seven feet depending on nationality and merchant or naval service. The term deep six comes from burials at sea. Naval Service required that sailors be buried in waters over six fathoms. 'By the deep six' would signify almost seven fathoms. Eventually, the British formally declared a fathom as " a thousandth of a nautical mile". Back in the 17/1800's, when ships were made of wood and men were made of iron, finding the bottom involved having someone in 'the chains' which was a platform where the shrouds terminated at the hull. A person could stand on the platform and swing a lead line to find soundings. With a breast rope over his chest to hold him on board, he would swing and cast. This was exhausting and wet work. One had to swing, cast, and retrieve a heavy lead bell shaped 7-14lb weight repeatedly to continuously monitor the bottom. The weight would need to increase depending on depth and speed of the vessel. Fathoms were used to simplify the process of assessing depth. The leaded lines were as long as 20 fathoms marked at 2,3,5,7,10,15,20 fathoms. This development gave a quick and fairly accurate way to sound the bottom.
Taking the depth a step further mariners developed a way to asses the bottom composition as well. A shallow cup at the bottom of the lead could hold a scoop of tallow. This way when the lead hit the bottom the makeup of the bottom could be determined by looking at what stuck in the scoop upon retrieval. This information was was useful anchoring as well as determining location such as distance from shore or a river mouth. Sometimes multiple men would be swinging leads to keep up with boat speed. Remember, the British Navy didn’t take kindly to their Captains sticking ships on reefs. Losing a King's ship due to negligence was a sure way to find your way high and dry begging on the docks if you weren’t introduced to the hangmen’s noose first. While the use of a lead line to asses depth is an old technique made obsolete by modern depth sounders, we keep and use a lead line on SV WHIRLWIND to measure depth in anchorages that we recon in our dinghy.
THE CABLE, SHOT AND SHACKLE: UNHOOKED
Anchors in these days of old were attached to the ship with cables which were large hemp ropes laid up left handed with three right hand laid hemp ropes. A cable in England was 85-100 fathoms long, the length of the rope walk where the ropes were made being the determining factor. A cable length was 1/10 of a nautical mile and used to express measurements of distance under one mile. People may have said, "We are 2 cable lengths from the anchorage or the reef lays 3 cable lengths off the starboard beam."
As hemp gave way to chain to make up anchor cables the designation of shots and shackles came into use. A shot of chain was used by the US Navy as 15 fathoms or 90 feet and a shackle of chain was used in the British Navy was 12 fathoms. Shots or shackles were connected together to create chain cables of up to 100 fathoms or larger. Because of its weight, chain requires less scope than a rope rhode and certainly a lot less worry around sharp rocks and coral. As chain came into favor, however, Captains found it prudent to still carry hemp cables for certain circumstances like sending out a kedge anchor or taking anchorage near a drop off. Near a subsurface dropoff the possibility of the anchor sliding off the ledge before or during retrieval made bringing up the anchor much harder if it was all chain and hanging anchor so they may use hemp cable instead. In general. fighting ships could retrieve an anchor much faster with a hemp cable than chain because anchors were weighed by man power. Capstan hemp was much lighter therefore much faster.
While many of these terms and technologies have been left behind and traded for modern convenience and a rapid acquisition of data, it is still a thrill to remember the past mariners, their ways, and their speech that got us where we are today. As we take a glimpse into the past examining terms and technologies when speed was measured by knotted line and bottoms were found with tallowed lead may we hold fast like an anchor to the spirit of adventure and exploration.
NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES
⚠️ NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES ⚠️
Captains and crew aboard cruising vessels are wise to be on constant alert day or night. Night Passages are inherently more dangerous than daytime passages due to a distinct change in how we see and what we do and do not see in the darkness. Passages made between sunset and sunrise have a particular set of best practices that are important to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Please review the following list and consider what you can do to make every night passage safe and thereby fun.
- Before the onset of darkness prep topsides. Make sure everything is well stowed or tied down. If sailing, choose a comfortable and prudent sail configuration.
- Consult all navigational charts along your planned course. Be sure to zoom in to look for any rocks or obstructions that may only be visible on a closer look. Additionally, navigating coastal and offshore waters along the Ocean Posse routes outside of US Waterways mariners will find places where the charts do not match up with the actual contour of the land and sea. Being aware of this as a fact is imperative to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Charts are not always GPS accurate. Use multiple sources of information like radar, OpenCPN, and Sat charts as an additional aid to navigation.
- Set a watch schedule and make sure that everyone on watch understands how to use navigational and safety equipment including AIS.
- If entering or leaving an anchorage, harbor, or port be sure to give a wide berth to headlands.
- Run radar, throughout the night. If possible overlay your radar image over your electronic chart to verify both with one another. If there is a discrepancy, trust the radar over the electronic chart. The radar is also great for looking for squalls.
- Check for other marine traffic. If your vessel is equipped with and AIS make sure everyone on watch knows how to use it to see other vessels that may be in your range or on your course. Note: Not every vessel on the ocean is equipped with AIS so this equipment, while an exceptional safety advancement, does not take the place of visually scanning the area for lights or shapes on the water.
- Know how to read navigational and ship lights at night. There are international rules on light color and placement aboard vessels of different sizes carrying different loads. The lights will show what part of the vessel is in view and the direction of travel.
- Objects at night have come up a lot faster.
Be aware, be cautious, be vigilant, and, most importantly,
be safe so you can enjoy all your sunrises and sunsets out at sea.
by Maurisa Descheemaeker, Ocean Posse editor
AZORES CREATES LARGEST MARINE PROTECTED AREA IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AZORES 
CREATES LARGEST
MARINE PROTECTED AREA
Cruising the Azores Just Got Better
The Azores, an archipelago situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, is a sailor’s paradise. Comprised of nine volcanic islands, underwater mountain ranges, and rich biodiversity on land and in the surrounding sea this autonomous region of Portuguese territory offers a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, rich culture, and ideal sailing conditions. For yachts and sailboats, cruising the Azores provides an opportunity to explore unspoiled nature, vibrant communities, and a wide array of maritime experiences. The islands are about 900 nautical miles west of mainland Portugal, making them accessible from both Europe and North America. Navigation in the Azores is generally straightforward, thanks to well-marked channels and reliable nautical charts. However, sailors should be prepared for variable weather conditions and the occasional challenge posed by the archipelago’s volcanic topography. The nine islands are divided into three groups: the Eastern Group (São Miguel and Santa Maria), the Central Group (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico, and Faial), and the Western Group (Flores and Corvo). Each group offers distinct attractions and cruising experiences.
Last year a global pact was adopted by the United Nations to protect 30% of the Earth's land and sea by 2030. This month, the a regional assembly of Portugal's Azures Islands took the leading step towards this goal by designating expansive marine protection which now represents the largest Marine Protected Area in the North Atlantic. The protection creates two areas: a fully protected area of sea marking it as a safe haven for biodiversity and natural resources, and a highly protected area of sea surrounding the islands. The distinction being that in the latter selective and light fishing is permitted.
World leaders are gathered this week in Columbia for the UN Biodiversity Conference COP16 and this recent announcement by the Azures will hopefully be an inspiration to other nations to make strides to protect their 30% of the earth's land and sea that they can to preserve the world's biodiversity. According to Oceanographic Magazine, "Marine Protected Areas are widely recognized as the most effective tool in the global effort to reverse biodiversity loss and build ocean resilience against climate change. The Azores leadership has been earmarked by commentators as ‘particularly inspiring’ given that only 2.8% of the world’s oceans are currently fully or highly protected.
A report issued by Greenpeace International earlier this week warns that at the current rate of development in ocean protection, the United Nations stands to miss its critical 2030 target by a full eight decades. This means the ambitions of the 30×30 target – at the current pace of success – won’t be realized until 2107."
José Manuel Bolieiro, president of the Regional Government of the Azores said, “The Azores has long been known for its unique ocean nature, and with this decision, we are driving the way forward to a productive, vibrant ocean. The sea is an integral part of our collective identity, being vital socially, culturally, and economically. We are committed to protect and recover our ocean to support a healthy blue economy. Our decision through a science-based and participatory process leading to the protection of 30% of our seas serves as an example that other regions must follow now to ensure the future health of the planet.”
The process by which the Regional Government of Azores achieved this protection may also be an example to other nations. This decision was not made by an authoritarian ruler at the expense of livelihoods and local sustainability. Rather the decision to create the largest marine protection area in North America was reached through "an extensive participatory process". This process included over 40 meetings with representatives from various sectors, including those within fishing, maritime transport, maritime tourism, and environmental non-governmental organizations.
“The result was the collaborative design of a network of marine protected areas that benefits people, nature, and the economy, based on the best available science in the region,” said representatives of the Azores.
Cruising the Azores with the new Marine Protected Area offers an unparalleled yachting and sailing adventure. The archipelago’s diverse landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and excellent sailing conditions make it a premier destination for sailors. Whether exploring the historical streets of Angra do Heroísmo, hiking the volcanic trails of Pico, or enjoying the serene beauty of Graciosa, the Azores provide a wealth of experiences for every sailor. Navigating these enchanting islands requires preparation and respect for the natural environment, but the rewards are well worth the effort. The Azores’ unique blend of maritime tradition, natural beauty, and welcoming communities ensure that every cruise is a memorable journey.
DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
DISCOVERING MAKATEA 
THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND
The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon. Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide. Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon. The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day. The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small. On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.
While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift. 40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea. This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited. Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level. Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level. While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs. The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.
Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa. It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt. We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.
On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor. The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain. Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available. With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef. We marveled at the scene. While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea. WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore. It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore. Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring. (Thank you Captain!).
The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores. A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region. A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens. A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.
Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea. The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks. There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.
It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits. Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s. The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s. Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea. The mining industry was quickly established. Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site. Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island. According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory. At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”
And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind. During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated. An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts. People came and people went. Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were. The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart. Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.
A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment. The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished. One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.
While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat. It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast. Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination. Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special. There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking. The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.
Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade. This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018. The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet. We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line. We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim and deeply refreshing cooldown. I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.
The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea. His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well. He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era. Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit. I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.
The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018. Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in. The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future. May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island. So far, it looks good!
Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'
POSSE PERK: FREE PRINTABLE REFERENCE CHARTS
POSSE PERK: 🗺️ FREE PRINTABLE REFERENCE CHARTS
*Emergency Backup To Your Electronics*
Paper charts are an excellent navigational aid ESPECIALLY if electronics fail. An Ocean Posse Perk gives members access to printable charts along the main routes of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.
Printable Charts are also available in the Atlantic and many European countries.
IN THE OCEAN POSSE YOU CAN SAIL YOUR OWN SCHEDULE
WITH HARD COPY CHARTS
AVAILABLE FOR PRINT TO ALL MEMBERS
PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
MV HO’OKIPA is cruising in the Baltic Sea. They keep record of their voyage and have shared with the Ocean Posse a part of their recent journey from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel Germany with many stops along the way. Thank you Ho’okipa for this window into cruising in the Baltic Sea: the beauty, the oops'ies, the lessons and the realities along the way. Below is a screenshot of their track. To zoom in on their various spots follow this link.
MV HO’OKIPA writes:
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN TO KIEL, GERMANY
Sunday September 1st, 2024 From Stockholm we headed back out to the archipelago the way we came in and headed to an anchorage, Soviken. It’s 52 nm. It takes us 7 hrs. 10 min at 7.25 knots average speed. Location: 58 47 .603N 017 51.050E It’s a secluded anchorage with protection from the no. winds. The chart was confusing, and we almost went into an area thinking that was the anchorage. It was a shallow area and had we kept going it would have been terrible, rocks everywhere. Luckily, our instincts told us to drop anchor where we were in 24 ft. When in doubt don’t do it.
The next morning cruise forty miles to Harstena Flisjarden. Instead of going down the coast we are going to go across the bay (about 3.5 hours) where Norrkoping is and directly to these islands east of Valdemarsvik. Per usual, as we have come to learn, we must pass through a narrow shallow cut to get to the deeper bay and anchorage. 58 15 .659N 017 09. 491E Stunning place. In the summer, this place will have 50 boats. Thankfully, there are just 3 others now. It’s a big enough bay that we all have room and privacy. It felt like being on a lake in the Sierras with the pine trees and rock outcrops. We did notice jelly fish surrounding our boat, just like the previous anchorage. They appear to be ones that do not sting. Of course, with the cold-water temperature I am not going swimming in any case.
Choppy today with 2-3 ft swell. Had to find a protected anchorage. We opt for Mjödö around some islands along the mainland. Requires following the buoy system through the shallow waters. 40 nm takes 6 hrs. 34 min. average speed 6.13kts. 57 46.809N 016 41.586E It’s empty of course as the season is over. But clearly a summer camp area. We normally would spend more time at these anchorages and meander more. However, the season has ended and although the weather has been unusually nice, we must be in Malmö, Sweden Sept 19th where we have an appointment with Swedish Immigration to apply for a temporary resident permit. Plus, we need the transformer work done and the European rep must meet us and do the work before September 28th.
In the morning, we continued south about 40 nm to an anchorage in Tillingeo. It’s near a port and lies off a quaint suburban area. We anchor i20 feet in a small cove. 57 16 .833N 016 29 463E
Depart early to head south but the anchor caught on a buried cable. Had to spin the boat 360 degrees to detach. Was a little unnerving. Could have been a big problem. Of course, had we looked at the chart carefully we would have seen the symbol for a cable running right under where we anchored. Good lesson. That’s what that means. Don’t anchor near a cable as you may hook your anchor around it. Doink!
Heading to Kalmar, an old historic walled town on the coast. It’s 42.8 nm, 6 hours at 7kts. 56 39.614N 016 21.907E We get a slip for 2 nights (660 SEK. Or $33 a night) alongside the dock at the small marina near the center of old town with its cobblestone streets. It’s a quaint town, and the castle with its moat are walking distance from the marina.
We learn that the marina in Copenhagen cannot import the transformer and ensure that the VAT is waived. The European rep suggests we have the work done in Germany, where he’s from, and that we will not have to pay the VAT in Germany. On his advice we have the transformer shipped to Kiel, Germany and we will now head there for the installation.
Saturday September 7, 2024, We leave Kalmar. We decide to go all the way to Utklippan, a tiny island off Sweden. About 51nm. Tomorrow, we think we will head to Bornholm Island which is part of Denmark and stay there until the rough weather heading this way passes. Then we will press on to the German coast. Utklippan is just a rock posing as an islet. You can walk around it in minutes except when the tiny harbor is in the way. There is a very narrow walled entrance (100ft wide) to the outer small harbor and then a slit into the inner harbor which is even smaller. Very intimidating. We must tie up along the cement dock which is high. The cleats are big bollards. It’s windy but sheltered. 55 57 .284N 015 42.218E
Weather is moving in so in the morning we make straight for Borlholm Island and the town of Hasle on the west coast. 55 11.211N 014 42.209E It’s 60.58nm and takes 9 hr. 4 min. at 6.68 kts average speed. This Danish island is in the Baltic Sea southeast of Sweden north of Germany. There is a small marina at Hasle, a fishing town that was once famous for its smoked fish houses. We can pay for the slip using a credit card at the machine by the Kiosk. $62 a night. There are a few other boats and a sauna across from the marina. We can easily walk to town. We stayed 4 nights to wait for a mild weather window to do the overnight passage to Kiel. The island is beautiful countryside with a few small towns. We get the motorcycle down and explore. Tour a small glass blowing factory and artisan studio, dine at a traditional old fish smoke house, visit the main town of Ronne, and walked around its old cobblestone streets, and admire the old Lutheran Church with a stain glass window over the alter featuring a fishing boat.
Thursday Sept 12, 2024. The forecast was for 3-foot seas and winds to 14 knots with gusts 18. The problem was swell wind was on our nose. And the swell period was 3-4 seconds. Not great at all. Changed course to get a smoother ride and it was a 2-hour delay. The entire day was like this. I felt like we were not making headway. in the early afternoon, the autopilot went off. “Drive Stopped” error. Not good. While I was steering the boat, C went to trouble shoot and checked all the connections. Nothing. We have Starlink SAT connection so checked online and on a Raymarine Forum a tech said sometimes you can tap on the device with a mallet and get the sensor (?) brushes unstuck. Charles tried it and it worked!!! Lots of cargo ships, tankers and cruise liners are out. This is a major throughfare. Wind farms dot the coasts too. When it’s dark lights are everywhere from various ships, buoys, lighthouses. Took two-hour shifts at the helm. We had calm seas all night for which we were grateful.
We reached the start of the passage that takes us between Fehmarn Island and the main coast of Germany. Still not light enough to see but the Flir infrared camera helps, and the chart is spot on. We slow down to let the morning light pick up. Perfect timing. After passing the first set of buoys we could start to see the outlines of the green and red buoys that were not lit. The buoys are only spaced 350 feet apart. No other vessels. Going under bridges is fun. As soon as we got out of the gap the wind and swell picked up. Nice and choppy again but at least it’s not right on the nose. Spend the next couple of hours getting to the outskirts of Kiel and our Marina Rajhe. But first we had to avoid the German military area. I just happened to zoom in on the chart to see what all the dotted lines meant. It’s a danger zone with active military shooting exercises. We had to circle around it instead of a straight shot across the bay to the inlet that leads to the canal and the city of Kiel. Took an extra hour or so. Lots of sailboats and ships coming and going. Marina Rajhe is a mile west of the canal entrance which is a mile west of Kiel. We made it into the marina at 1300. 54 23.124N 010 09.979E
MV HO'OKIPA 🇺🇸 Lisa & Chuck - Selene 43'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES ON THE WATER IN THE BALTIC SEA!!
PASSAGE REPORT: SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
SV VIVA SHARES PASSAGE REPORT:
SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART ON CRUISING SEASON ON THE PACIFIC COAST
VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART
ON CRUISING SEASON IN MEXICO, COSTA RICA, & PANAMA
SY PERCEPTION 🇺🇸 Jim & Melinda & Grace - Lagoon 42'
SV ZORBA 
Tomer & Limor – Tayana 48’
