EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS
Emergency Communications
By Rob Murray on SV AVANT
Cruisers spend big dollars on emergency communications, and in most cases never use them. What are some of the options, their pros and cons, and use cases aboard?
EPIRB
EPIRBs (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon(s)) are the gold standard in reliability and durability. Designed by an international consortium of search and rescue agencies in the 1980s, these use the SARSAT (Search And Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) system of satellites (a combination of government operated LEOSAR, GEOSAR, and MEOSAR satellites) combined with a network of 29 MCCs (Mission Control Centers) which communicate with national RCCs (Rescue Coordination Centers).
When you activate your EPIRB, a SARSAT satellite will pick up the signal within minutes and relay it to the MCC nearest the satellite via their Local User Terminal. The MCC will relay the transmission to the national authority’s RCC you have registered your EPIRB with (typically your flag country). Then ‘your’ RCC will relay the information to the RCC responsible for the area you are in and reach out to the emergency contacts registered with your beacon, and the RCC local to your location will begin a rescue operation. This is typically done in less than an hour.
COSPAS-SARSAT System Overview
The downside of EPIRBs is they are one-way communicators – they simply relay your call for help, and do not indicate if it’s a fire, sinking, or medical emergency.
Once purchased, EPIRBs are free to operate (no subscription fee), and the only ongoing cost is periodic replacement of the batteries (depends on unit specifications). Most units are water activated, so they should be stored where rain or spray won’t set them off inadvertently. They are specified to operate for a minimum of 48 hours, but typically will operate for much longer.
EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.
PLB
PLBs (Personal Locator Beacon(s)) are basically EPIRBs in short pants. Smaller and lighter than EPIRBs, they are typically less expensive as well. The broadcast at the same power as EPIRBs (5.0 watts) but have half the battery life (24 hours minimum vs 48 hours with an EPIRB). As with EPIRBs, they will typically operate much longer than the minimum specified.
Similar to EPIRBs, they must be registered with a national authority and have no operating cost beyond periodic battery replacement.
PLBs, like EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.
SEND
SENDs (Satellite Emergency Notification Device(s)) are devices like the InReach, InReach Mini, Garmin InReach Messenger, Zoleo, Spot, Spot X, Yellowbrick, ACR Bivy Stick, Motorola Defy Satellite Link and so on.
These use various commercial satellites or commercial satellite constellations and allow emergency ‘send help’ communications, typically with a dedicated SOS button. They also typically allow two-way communications, like a text or SMS on your phone (some allow this in a self-contained method, some require tethering with a smartphone or tablet). Most operate on the Iridium Satellite Network, which is generally considered to be of the highest quality and offers global coverage. Some use other networks like Globalstar, which does not offer global coverage. They typically operate at about 1.5 watts of transmit power.
Most use the IERCC (International Emergency Response Coordination Center) as their emergency response partner ( WWW.IERCC.COM ). Spot uses Overwatch Rescue ( WWW.OVERWATCHXRESCUE.COM ).
When you press ‘SOS’ on the device, it sends a message via the satellite or satellite constellation to the emergency response partner and they act in a way like the EPIRB response mechanism above, but they call/text you back (if your device allows) as well as calling your emergency contacts.
If the device allows you to send and receive messages you can also initiate a two-way conversation with a shoreside contact for a serious but not life-threatening situation, such as an engine or medical problem.
Most SENDs also support the sending of ‘breadcrumb’ trails while cruising. This is useful to allow shoreside contacts to follow you and leaves a record of your journey should you ‘go dark’ in an emergency that incapacitates you and your crew such that you are unable to activate any of your devices, giving search and rescue teams a starting place to look for you.
Each of these devices, being commercial, requires a subscription. Costs vary.
SENDs are rechargeable and can be used again and again. Battery life varies between units.
There is a good comparative review of many units at ( https://www.treelinereview.com/gearreviews/best-personal-locator-beacons )
DSC Distress Calls
Marine radios (VHF and MF/SSB) can send a DSC (Digital Selective Calling) alert, usually by pressing a red button on the radio. The button usually must be held down for more than 3 seconds to activate it (this to limit the chance of false alerts). This sends a GPS position if your radio contains or is connected to a GPS, plus your MMSI (Marine Mobile Service Identity).
VHF is monitored for these alerts worldwide (withing coverage limits), but coverage via MF/SSB is spotty. (There are propagation issues, and some rescue authorities no longer monitor the frequency. The USCG stopped monitoring the 2182Hz rescue frequency in 2013.)
VHF DSC alerts will be picked up by other vessels within radio range.
This is cost-free.
How do you contact Search and Rescue directly wherever you are?
Each country has SEARCH AND RESCUE NUMBERS. These can be found on the Ocean Posse website for each area we operate in:
https://oceanposse.com/aruba/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/azores/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/bahamas/#emergencies
etc
https://oceanposse.com/italy/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/mexico/#emergencies
Ocean Posse members can substitute the country you are in to get to the right numbers
What about Cell Phone Satellite Communications?
Some newer cell phones from Apple or Google/Pixel have limited SOS satellite connectivity, and Samsung has announced forthcoming satellite capability. Somewhat klugey, they require manual alignment of the device and use the GlobalStar network. Not all devices have the feature, and some are limited by the carrier. The geographic coverage is quite limited. These should be considered back-ups until the technology becomes more mature.
What should you do to get ready for an emergency?
Select and install your chosen devices and set them up appropriately.
For EPIRBs and PLBs, that means registering them with the appropriate national authorities and mounting their storage brackets in suitable locations. Each device has a testing schedule and protocol, so add reminders to your calendar to ensure you keep up with the schedule.
For SEND devices, ensure you have the appropriate subscription in place and the emergency contacts are registered, and the appropriate contacts are in the device’s address book or contact list. If the device tethers with a smart phone or other device, ensure the appropriate software is installed and up to date, and the tethering connection(s) have been tested. Having the tethering connection enabled on multiple devices adds redundancy. Most send devices get firmware updates from the manufacturer, so find out how your device updates and schedule a check every 90 days or so to ensure you’re up to date. Ensure you have a charging/battery replacement protocol in place so that the device is always charged up or, if it has replaceable batteries, you have spares on hand.
For DSC Alerts, make sure your radio(s) have your MMSI programmed in and have access to a reliable GPS signal, and that the radio(s) have a first-class antenna connection (testing with an SWR meter is the best way to ensure this).
Once the hardware and software are established, train your crew in the use of these devices and make sure they know how and when to use them. Preparing a ‘Cheat Sheet’ of simple instructions that can be posted in a handy spot ensures they are not falling back on memory in an emergency.
You have an emergency, what should you do?
If you are faced with a life-threatening situation or there is an imminent threat of danger such as loss of life, potential loss of life, loss of the vessel, potential loss of the vessel, sinking, fire, loss of the rig, or other serious emergency you should activate all of your emergency communications all at once. If you have all three, use the EPIRB, SEND and DSC alert all at the same time.
- The EPIRB will get SAR resources mobilized rapidly on a nation-to-nation basis. It is hands down the most reliable distress signaling mechanism.
- The SEND will typically allow two-way communication on the nature of the emergency and what aid is required.
- The VHF DSC Alert will summon any nearby vessels to your aid.
If you are faced with a potential life-threatening situation or there is the potential for an imminent threat of danger to develop, you should initiate a two-way communication with a shoreside contact to seek advice and/or advise them of the situation (ideally with one of the emergency contacts for your EPIRB or SEND). This could be via any means available, Cell Phone, Starlink (email, teleconference, etc.), SEND, or whatever works. Nearby vessels should be alerted via a normal VHF radio call. This allows them to be aware of what’s going on and be ready to scale up response appropriately as the situation demands.
Posse Perk
Ocean Posse members have access to additional help from other Posse members who may be nearby and from Posse HQ. Members can send a message on the Posse line Ap to reach out for nearby vessels. The Posse Team has assisted in rescue coordination and has connections in many regions with search and rescue and other resources to assist if required. Contact Dietmar at dietmar@oceanposse.com or text him at ( +1 (702) 861-9823 ) to set the team in motion!
MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS
MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious
Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world. Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents. Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe. Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.
There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris). No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales. The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons. Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells. The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'. Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.
As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras. The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy. Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned. In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies. One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned. It's a win-win! Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.
Manta rays live up to 50 years. The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age. Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!). Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years. Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.
Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world. In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom. In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon. In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune. Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.
Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways. Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.). In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine. It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.
Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them. Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them. However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.
According to Mantatrust.org :
Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it.
....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.
Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts. People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.
If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish. Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.
SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS
IN THE END,
WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT
Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific. They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences. Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:
SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600
THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!
EVERY SEASON STARTS WITH THE ROAR OF THE HOWLER MONKEY
EVERY SEASON STARTS WITH
THE ROAR OF THE HOWLER MONKEY
Like the sound of the conch sounding as the sun meets the horizon pronouncing the beginning of sunset,
the Ocean Posse likes to start every season with the roar of the Howler Monkey.
Watch this video to hear the loudest mammal above ground roar at it - you can hear them 3 nm through then densest of jungles. Howlers are stoutly built bearded monkeys with a hunched appearance and thickly furred tails that are naked on the underside of the tip to afford a better grip. The hair is long and dense and, depending on species, is typically black, brown, or red.
Endemic to the southern tip of Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, and Colombia - the howler monkey is an endangered species but shall not go quietly into the night!
NAUTICAL MEASUREMENTS
NAUTICAL MEASUREMENTS:
ONE SHOT AT A TIME
By Mike Descheemaeker of SV WHIRLWIND
The nautical mile, not to be confused with the statute mile, is the basis for ocean navigation ... but why?
I thought it would be fun to explore the different nautical words and the variations of actual lengths and depths of different forms of sea people measurements. The 'knot', the 'fathom', the 'cable', the 'shot', the 'shackle' are all different ways to look at length, distance, and speed. In our modern way of navigating our vessels many of these expressions have really become archaic and less important to the modern navigator. Nonetheless, a general idea of there usages and their origins is quite interesting.
THE KNOT: UNRAVELLED
Obviously, we all are familiar with the knot as a measurement of speed. One nautical mile per hour is equivalent to one knot. The nautical mile deals directly with measuring a curved surface. From my trusty Celestial Navigation: A Step By Step Procedure For The Complete Idiot I will borrow this excellent description of measurement:
“We measure straight lines by inches, feet and statute miles. 12 inches equals one foot, 5,280 feet equals one statute mile. We measure angles and arcs by seconds, minutes and degrees, 60 seconds equals one minute, 60 minutes equals one degree and 360 degrees equals one complete circle.”
So because the earth is a big round sphere it is measured using minutes of arc. If we take the 360 degrees the sun appears to travel around the earth each day and divide by 24, the sun appears to travels 15 degree of arc every hour or 900 miles per hour. This rapid speed rotation of the earth makes the sun appear to move. 900 (miles/hour) times 24 (hours/day) is 21,600 miles/day...the entire circumference of the earth sees the sun each day. To check the numbers another way, one can multiply 360 degrees times 60 minutes of arc to get 21,600 minutes. One minute of arc is equivalent to one nautical mile based on the circumference of our planet.
The term knot to designate speed derived from the common log used on board sailing ships beginning in the 17th century. A spool of knotted line was lowered over the stern with a wooden triangle attached to the end upon release it was timed with an hour glass the number of knots that came out in the time on the glass was how many knots or nautical miles per hour the the ship was traveling thru the water.
THE FATHOM: UNVEILED
As mariners gathered information underway like their speed in combination with a dead reckoning and a noon site hopefully every day, the ancient mariner could keep a pretty good idea of their place on earth. Knowing one's location on the earth is of great importance and so is knowing how much water is under the keel. This notion of depth was traditionally expressed in fathoms. This word came from various ancient languages in what is now Europe and the Mediterranean. A fathom meant outstretched arms or about six feet. This measurement could vary from five to seven feet depending on nationality and merchant or naval service. The term deep six comes from burials at sea. Naval Service required that sailors be buried in waters over six fathoms. 'By the deep six' would signify almost seven fathoms. Eventually, the British formally declared a fathom as " a thousandth of a nautical mile". Back in the 17/1800's, when ships were made of wood and men were made of iron, finding the bottom involved having someone in 'the chains' which was a platform where the shrouds terminated at the hull. A person could stand on the platform and swing a lead line to find soundings. With a breast rope over his chest to hold him on board, he would swing and cast. This was exhausting and wet work. One had to swing, cast, and retrieve a heavy lead bell shaped 7-14lb weight repeatedly to continuously monitor the bottom. The weight would need to increase depending on depth and speed of the vessel. Fathoms were used to simplify the process of assessing depth. The leaded lines were as long as 20 fathoms marked at 2,3,5,7,10,15,20 fathoms. This development gave a quick and fairly accurate way to sound the bottom.
Taking the depth a step further mariners developed a way to asses the bottom composition as well. A shallow cup at the bottom of the lead could hold a scoop of tallow. This way when the lead hit the bottom the makeup of the bottom could be determined by looking at what stuck in the scoop upon retrieval. This information was was useful anchoring as well as determining location such as distance from shore or a river mouth. Sometimes multiple men would be swinging leads to keep up with boat speed. Remember, the British Navy didn’t take kindly to their Captains sticking ships on reefs. Losing a King's ship due to negligence was a sure way to find your way high and dry begging on the docks if you weren’t introduced to the hangmen’s noose first. While the use of a lead line to asses depth is an old technique made obsolete by modern depth sounders, we keep and use a lead line on SV WHIRLWIND to measure depth in anchorages that we recon in our dinghy.
THE CABLE, SHOT AND SHACKLE: UNHOOKED
Anchors in these days of old were attached to the ship with cables which were large hemp ropes laid up left handed with three right hand laid hemp ropes. A cable in England was 85-100 fathoms long, the length of the rope walk where the ropes were made being the determining factor. A cable length was 1/10 of a nautical mile and used to express measurements of distance under one mile. People may have said, "We are 2 cable lengths from the anchorage or the reef lays 3 cable lengths off the starboard beam."
As hemp gave way to chain to make up anchor cables the designation of shots and shackles came into use. A shot of chain was used by the US Navy as 15 fathoms or 90 feet and a shackle of chain was used in the British Navy was 12 fathoms. Shots or shackles were connected together to create chain cables of up to 100 fathoms or larger. Because of its weight, chain requires less scope than a rope rhode and certainly a lot less worry around sharp rocks and coral. As chain came into favor, however, Captains found it prudent to still carry hemp cables for certain circumstances like sending out a kedge anchor or taking anchorage near a drop off. Near a subsurface dropoff the possibility of the anchor sliding off the ledge before or during retrieval made bringing up the anchor much harder if it was all chain and hanging anchor so they may use hemp cable instead. In general. fighting ships could retrieve an anchor much faster with a hemp cable than chain because anchors were weighed by man power. Capstan hemp was much lighter therefore much faster.
While many of these terms and technologies have been left behind and traded for modern convenience and a rapid acquisition of data, it is still a thrill to remember the past mariners, their ways, and their speech that got us where we are today. As we take a glimpse into the past examining terms and technologies when speed was measured by knotted line and bottoms were found with tallowed lead may we hold fast like an anchor to the spirit of adventure and exploration.
NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES
⚠️ NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES ⚠️
Captains and crew aboard cruising vessels are wise to be on constant alert day or night. Night Passages are inherently more dangerous than daytime passages due to a distinct change in how we see and what we do and do not see in the darkness. Passages made between sunset and sunrise have a particular set of best practices that are important to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Please review the following list and consider what you can do to make every night passage safe and thereby fun.
- Before the onset of darkness prep topsides. Make sure everything is well stowed or tied down. If sailing, choose a comfortable and prudent sail configuration.
- Consult all navigational charts along your planned course. Be sure to zoom in to look for any rocks or obstructions that may only be visible on a closer look. Additionally, navigating coastal and offshore waters along the Ocean Posse routes outside of US Waterways mariners will find places where the charts do not match up with the actual contour of the land and sea. Being aware of this as a fact is imperative to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Charts are not always GPS accurate. Use multiple sources of information like radar, OpenCPN, and Sat charts as an additional aid to navigation.
- Set a watch schedule and make sure that everyone on watch understands how to use navigational and safety equipment including AIS.
- If entering or leaving an anchorage, harbor, or port be sure to give a wide berth to headlands.
- Run radar, throughout the night. If possible overlay your radar image over your electronic chart to verify both with one another. If there is a discrepancy, trust the radar over the electronic chart. The radar is also great for looking for squalls.
- Check for other marine traffic. If your vessel is equipped with and AIS make sure everyone on watch knows how to use it to see other vessels that may be in your range or on your course. Note: Not every vessel on the ocean is equipped with AIS so this equipment, while an exceptional safety advancement, does not take the place of visually scanning the area for lights or shapes on the water.
- Know how to read navigational and ship lights at night. There are international rules on light color and placement aboard vessels of different sizes carrying different loads. The lights will show what part of the vessel is in view and the direction of travel.
- Objects at night have come up a lot faster.
Be aware, be cautious, be vigilant, and, most importantly,
be safe so you can enjoy all your sunrises and sunsets out at sea.
by Maurisa Descheemaeker, Ocean Posse editor
AZORES CREATES LARGEST MARINE PROTECTED AREA IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AZORES 
CREATES LARGEST
MARINE PROTECTED AREA
Cruising the Azores Just Got Better
The Azores, an archipelago situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, is a sailor’s paradise. Comprised of nine volcanic islands, underwater mountain ranges, and rich biodiversity on land and in the surrounding sea this autonomous region of Portuguese territory offers a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, rich culture, and ideal sailing conditions. For yachts and sailboats, cruising the Azores provides an opportunity to explore unspoiled nature, vibrant communities, and a wide array of maritime experiences. The islands are about 900 nautical miles west of mainland Portugal, making them accessible from both Europe and North America. Navigation in the Azores is generally straightforward, thanks to well-marked channels and reliable nautical charts. However, sailors should be prepared for variable weather conditions and the occasional challenge posed by the archipelago’s volcanic topography. The nine islands are divided into three groups: the Eastern Group (São Miguel and Santa Maria), the Central Group (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico, and Faial), and the Western Group (Flores and Corvo). Each group offers distinct attractions and cruising experiences.
Last year a global pact was adopted by the United Nations to protect 30% of the Earth's land and sea by 2030. This month, the a regional assembly of Portugal's Azures Islands took the leading step towards this goal by designating expansive marine protection which now represents the largest Marine Protected Area in the North Atlantic. The protection creates two areas: a fully protected area of sea marking it as a safe haven for biodiversity and natural resources, and a highly protected area of sea surrounding the islands. The distinction being that in the latter selective and light fishing is permitted.
World leaders are gathered this week in Columbia for the UN Biodiversity Conference COP16 and this recent announcement by the Azures will hopefully be an inspiration to other nations to make strides to protect their 30% of the earth's land and sea that they can to preserve the world's biodiversity. According to Oceanographic Magazine, "Marine Protected Areas are widely recognized as the most effective tool in the global effort to reverse biodiversity loss and build ocean resilience against climate change. The Azores leadership has been earmarked by commentators as ‘particularly inspiring’ given that only 2.8% of the world’s oceans are currently fully or highly protected.
A report issued by Greenpeace International earlier this week warns that at the current rate of development in ocean protection, the United Nations stands to miss its critical 2030 target by a full eight decades. This means the ambitions of the 30×30 target – at the current pace of success – won’t be realized until 2107."
José Manuel Bolieiro, president of the Regional Government of the Azores said, “The Azores has long been known for its unique ocean nature, and with this decision, we are driving the way forward to a productive, vibrant ocean. The sea is an integral part of our collective identity, being vital socially, culturally, and economically. We are committed to protect and recover our ocean to support a healthy blue economy. Our decision through a science-based and participatory process leading to the protection of 30% of our seas serves as an example that other regions must follow now to ensure the future health of the planet.”
The process by which the Regional Government of Azores achieved this protection may also be an example to other nations. This decision was not made by an authoritarian ruler at the expense of livelihoods and local sustainability. Rather the decision to create the largest marine protection area in North America was reached through "an extensive participatory process". This process included over 40 meetings with representatives from various sectors, including those within fishing, maritime transport, maritime tourism, and environmental non-governmental organizations.
“The result was the collaborative design of a network of marine protected areas that benefits people, nature, and the economy, based on the best available science in the region,” said representatives of the Azores.
Cruising the Azores with the new Marine Protected Area offers an unparalleled yachting and sailing adventure. The archipelago’s diverse landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and excellent sailing conditions make it a premier destination for sailors. Whether exploring the historical streets of Angra do Heroísmo, hiking the volcanic trails of Pico, or enjoying the serene beauty of Graciosa, the Azores provide a wealth of experiences for every sailor. Navigating these enchanting islands requires preparation and respect for the natural environment, but the rewards are well worth the effort. The Azores’ unique blend of maritime tradition, natural beauty, and welcoming communities ensure that every cruise is a memorable journey.
DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
DISCOVERING MAKATEA 
THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND
The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon. Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide. Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon. The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day. The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small. On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.
While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift. 40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea. This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited. Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level. Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level. While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs. The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.
Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa. It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt. We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.
On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor. The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain. Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available. With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef. We marveled at the scene. While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea. WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore. It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore. Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring. (Thank you Captain!).
The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores. A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region. A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens. A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.
Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea. The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks. There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.
It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits. Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s. The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s. Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea. The mining industry was quickly established. Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site. Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island. According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory. At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”
And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind. During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated. An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts. People came and people went. Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were. The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart. Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.
A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment. The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished. One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.
While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat. It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast. Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination. Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special. There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking. The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.
Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade. This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018. The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet. We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line. We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim and deeply refreshing cooldown. I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.
The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea. His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well. He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era. Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit. I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.
The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018. Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in. The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future. May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island. So far, it looks good!
Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'
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PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
MV HO’OKIPA is cruising in the Baltic Sea. They keep record of their voyage and have shared with the Ocean Posse a part of their recent journey from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel Germany with many stops along the way. Thank you Ho’okipa for this window into cruising in the Baltic Sea: the beauty, the oops'ies, the lessons and the realities along the way. Below is a screenshot of their track. To zoom in on their various spots follow this link.
MV HO’OKIPA writes:
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN TO KIEL, GERMANY
Sunday September 1st, 2024 From Stockholm we headed back out to the archipelago the way we came in and headed to an anchorage, Soviken. It’s 52 nm. It takes us 7 hrs. 10 min at 7.25 knots average speed. Location: 58 47 .603N 017 51.050E It’s a secluded anchorage with protection from the no. winds. The chart was confusing, and we almost went into an area thinking that was the anchorage. It was a shallow area and had we kept going it would have been terrible, rocks everywhere. Luckily, our instincts told us to drop anchor where we were in 24 ft. When in doubt don’t do it.
The next morning cruise forty miles to Harstena Flisjarden. Instead of going down the coast we are going to go across the bay (about 3.5 hours) where Norrkoping is and directly to these islands east of Valdemarsvik. Per usual, as we have come to learn, we must pass through a narrow shallow cut to get to the deeper bay and anchorage. 58 15 .659N 017 09. 491E Stunning place. In the summer, this place will have 50 boats. Thankfully, there are just 3 others now. It’s a big enough bay that we all have room and privacy. It felt like being on a lake in the Sierras with the pine trees and rock outcrops. We did notice jelly fish surrounding our boat, just like the previous anchorage. They appear to be ones that do not sting. Of course, with the cold-water temperature I am not going swimming in any case.
Choppy today with 2-3 ft swell. Had to find a protected anchorage. We opt for Mjödö around some islands along the mainland. Requires following the buoy system through the shallow waters. 40 nm takes 6 hrs. 34 min. average speed 6.13kts. 57 46.809N 016 41.586E It’s empty of course as the season is over. But clearly a summer camp area. We normally would spend more time at these anchorages and meander more. However, the season has ended and although the weather has been unusually nice, we must be in Malmö, Sweden Sept 19th where we have an appointment with Swedish Immigration to apply for a temporary resident permit. Plus, we need the transformer work done and the European rep must meet us and do the work before September 28th.
In the morning, we continued south about 40 nm to an anchorage in Tillingeo. It’s near a port and lies off a quaint suburban area. We anchor i20 feet in a small cove. 57 16 .833N 016 29 463E
Depart early to head south but the anchor caught on a buried cable. Had to spin the boat 360 degrees to detach. Was a little unnerving. Could have been a big problem. Of course, had we looked at the chart carefully we would have seen the symbol for a cable running right under where we anchored. Good lesson. That’s what that means. Don’t anchor near a cable as you may hook your anchor around it. Doink!
Heading to Kalmar, an old historic walled town on the coast. It’s 42.8 nm, 6 hours at 7kts. 56 39.614N 016 21.907E We get a slip for 2 nights (660 SEK. Or $33 a night) alongside the dock at the small marina near the center of old town with its cobblestone streets. It’s a quaint town, and the castle with its moat are walking distance from the marina.
We learn that the marina in Copenhagen cannot import the transformer and ensure that the VAT is waived. The European rep suggests we have the work done in Germany, where he’s from, and that we will not have to pay the VAT in Germany. On his advice we have the transformer shipped to Kiel, Germany and we will now head there for the installation.
Saturday September 7, 2024, We leave Kalmar. We decide to go all the way to Utklippan, a tiny island off Sweden. About 51nm. Tomorrow, we think we will head to Bornholm Island which is part of Denmark and stay there until the rough weather heading this way passes. Then we will press on to the German coast. Utklippan is just a rock posing as an islet. You can walk around it in minutes except when the tiny harbor is in the way. There is a very narrow walled entrance (100ft wide) to the outer small harbor and then a slit into the inner harbor which is even smaller. Very intimidating. We must tie up along the cement dock which is high. The cleats are big bollards. It’s windy but sheltered. 55 57 .284N 015 42.218E
Weather is moving in so in the morning we make straight for Borlholm Island and the town of Hasle on the west coast. 55 11.211N 014 42.209E It’s 60.58nm and takes 9 hr. 4 min. at 6.68 kts average speed. This Danish island is in the Baltic Sea southeast of Sweden north of Germany. There is a small marina at Hasle, a fishing town that was once famous for its smoked fish houses. We can pay for the slip using a credit card at the machine by the Kiosk. $62 a night. There are a few other boats and a sauna across from the marina. We can easily walk to town. We stayed 4 nights to wait for a mild weather window to do the overnight passage to Kiel. The island is beautiful countryside with a few small towns. We get the motorcycle down and explore. Tour a small glass blowing factory and artisan studio, dine at a traditional old fish smoke house, visit the main town of Ronne, and walked around its old cobblestone streets, and admire the old Lutheran Church with a stain glass window over the alter featuring a fishing boat.
Thursday Sept 12, 2024. The forecast was for 3-foot seas and winds to 14 knots with gusts 18. The problem was swell wind was on our nose. And the swell period was 3-4 seconds. Not great at all. Changed course to get a smoother ride and it was a 2-hour delay. The entire day was like this. I felt like we were not making headway. in the early afternoon, the autopilot went off. “Drive Stopped” error. Not good. While I was steering the boat, C went to trouble shoot and checked all the connections. Nothing. We have Starlink SAT connection so checked online and on a Raymarine Forum a tech said sometimes you can tap on the device with a mallet and get the sensor (?) brushes unstuck. Charles tried it and it worked!!! Lots of cargo ships, tankers and cruise liners are out. This is a major throughfare. Wind farms dot the coasts too. When it’s dark lights are everywhere from various ships, buoys, lighthouses. Took two-hour shifts at the helm. We had calm seas all night for which we were grateful.
We reached the start of the passage that takes us between Fehmarn Island and the main coast of Germany. Still not light enough to see but the Flir infrared camera helps, and the chart is spot on. We slow down to let the morning light pick up. Perfect timing. After passing the first set of buoys we could start to see the outlines of the green and red buoys that were not lit. The buoys are only spaced 350 feet apart. No other vessels. Going under bridges is fun. As soon as we got out of the gap the wind and swell picked up. Nice and choppy again but at least it’s not right on the nose. Spend the next couple of hours getting to the outskirts of Kiel and our Marina Rajhe. But first we had to avoid the German military area. I just happened to zoom in on the chart to see what all the dotted lines meant. It’s a danger zone with active military shooting exercises. We had to circle around it instead of a straight shot across the bay to the inlet that leads to the canal and the city of Kiel. Took an extra hour or so. Lots of sailboats and ships coming and going. Marina Rajhe is a mile west of the canal entrance which is a mile west of Kiel. We made it into the marina at 1300. 54 23.124N 010 09.979E
MV HO'OKIPA 🇺🇸 Lisa & Chuck - Selene 43'
