FLEET UPDATE 2019-03-09
1) Bahia Balena, Costa Rica
Octopus Garden update in Bahia Balena CR - we’ve stayed in this beautiful place over a week now bouncing between the south anchorage (town of Tambor) and north anchorage (beach of your dreams). It’s too nice here to leave. Everything you need, nothing you don’t. Store, bar, restaurants, taxi to the little town. Really enjoyed eating casada de pescado at Christina’s, pizza at Henry’s and the beach volleyball tournament
PICTURE OF THE WEEK
Jim & Susy
OCTOPUS GARDEN
2) Zihuatanejo, MX
Venue for the Zihuatanejo Guitar Fest - an array of incredible musicians opening night, with lots more to come this week.
Plus there’s pickleball here!
Katy & Bill
KLICKITAT II3) Las Perlas, Panama
Here we are in Las Perlas and still loving it.
Since we got back from Europe we have been trying to decide where to go next! Panama really is a crossroads but having come from the north and already crossed the Pacific from the west it leaves east into the Caribbean or the south down the west coast of South America. Strong easterly trade winds make sailing in the southern Caribbean difficult before the end of March and then the hurricane season kicks in at the beginning of June, leaving us only couple of months to enjoy cruising there. We kicked around the idea of sailing south down to Equador but beating against the SE trades and the Humbolt Current did not really appeal and the few people we know who have been there were not terribly enthusiastic about it. So after mucho deliberation we have decided to stay here on the Pacific coast of Panama for the next few months . . . Da . . . Daaa!
There were a couple of other factors which weighed in: firstly we thought we’d set up shop doing BnB/sailing tours on the boat. Contadora is easily accessible from Panama City and Islas Las Perlas is a beautiful archipelago with plenty of sheltered bays for kayaking and beachcombing and reefs for snorkeling and fishing; great for 4-5 days tours. We figured it would be fun to show people our lifestyle, it motivates us to explore more of the islands and it will replenish our dwindling boat fund. We’ve had four groups of guests this month, it’s been a pleasure having them on board so it’s all going well so far.
We are also keen to get involved in cleaning up the islands beaches in some way. Although the beaches look pristine most of them have plastic debris scattered along the high tide line. Exposed to sunlight the plastic breaks down into smaller plastic particles which are washed back out to sea and are easily ingested by various forms of marine life. The best way to break this cycle is to stop putting plastic into the oceans, the next best way is to remove the plastic when it is trapped on the beach. Here endeth the lesson!
We are trying to work out a system to remove all existing plastics from the beaches and dispose of it via recycling and/or landfill, and to write a proposal in order to secure the necessary funding to make it happen. To scope out the project we cleaned up 50m of beach on the west side of Isla Mogo Mogo. It took four very hot and sweaty man hours and we collected about 1m3 of plastic. With over 8000m of beach distributed around 200 islands, this is no mean feat! What our role in all this might be we don’t know, perhaps we’ll combine sailing tours with plastic collection so you can come and have a holiday in paradise and feel good about contributing to cleaning up marine plastic. If you have any suggestions or ideas please get in touch – we’d love to hear from you.
Isla Contadora is a great little island to base ourselves at. It is the playground of the uber-rich and famous from Panama City who occasionally visit their mansions but tend to stay behind closed gates. Most of the other houses are owned by expats who live here semi-permanently or are small hotels or BnBs. A trickle of tourists come and go on the daily ferry from the City and at weekends a flotilla of gleaming white motor launches arrives and the anchorage is transformed; tents scattered on the beach, throbbing music, and jetskis zapping about.
The tiki bar at the Mar y Oro hotel on the beach has a happy hour and we have met quite a few of the locals and tourists – it’s getting to be quite sociable. On Saturday evenings Neil has been playing keyboards with John, a local guitarist, in the hotel restaurant. They play laid back blues and attract a bit of a crowd – it’s good fun.
A couple of weeks ago the World ARC rally arrived in the anchorage. This is a group of some twenty five yachts that are cruising around the world together over a period of about thirteen months. They started in St. Lucia in the Caribbean in November, have just come through the Canal and gathered in Contadora to start Leg #3 – Panama to Galapagos. Distant Drummer was suddenly surrounded by yachts, the radio buzzed with British and other European accents and the beach was crowded with dinghies. It was great to meet some other yachties and hear their tales from Caribbean shores.
They only stayed for a couple of days then it was time to move on (they move a bit faster than we do!) We puttered amongst them in the dinghy as they gathered at the start line for the departure to Galapagos. It was quite a spectacle with their brightly coloured spinnakers raised to catch the light northerly breeze. As they sailed over the horizon we listened to their chatter on the radio and breathed a sigh of relief to be living life in the slow lane.
Although we have been here for a couple of months now we are still exploring islands we haven’t visited yet. Isla Pacheca is a small island with a swathe of beautiful white sand beach and amazing clear turquoise water. We took a short walk in land looking for coconuts and stumbled upon a group of green-footed boobies nesting on the ground. They are totally unafraid of humans and sat on their nests making a croaky hissing sound to warn us to keep away. A half grown chick was strutting around showing off it’s fluffy white downy plumage, it was a treat to watch.
Isla Saboga is a large island which lies just to the west of Contadora and supplies the power and the workforce to its more glamorous sister. We went over to have a look around and to meet Alex, Yaiza and Jacob who run a campsite and sailing school there. One of their other projects is collecting garbage from the beach. They recycle the tins and glass but most of the plastic they currently burn. They have been experimenting with melting different types of plastic at specific temperatures to make plastic bricks for building construction but it is difficult to do without an oven to maintain an accurate temperature. It was interesting to hear about their experience and hopefully we can work together with them in the future.
The only downside of our Contadora “paradise” is the very limited water supply on the island so next week we will head back to Panama City to fill our water tanks. While we are there it will also be Carnival which is a major holiday in Central and South America. For four days before Lent people are celebrating in the street with parades, street parties, music, dance and feasting. It should be lots of fun!
More great posts at https://carmody-clan.com/2019/03/05/
Neil & Suzy
DISTANT DRUMMER4) Marina Papagayo Panama Posse Party, Costa Rica
Blessed - Floating Stones - Figment - Carinthia - Footloose - Ay Caramaba - Sonomara - Paradisea - Mai Tai - Toccata
Panama Posse Get together
Presentation of the Burgee to Dan Eaffaldano and Marina Papagayo
Pool Shark Michelle / AY Caramaba !
Cheryl /Floating Stones and Lisa / Footloose
3 Motor Vessels, 4 Catamarans & 3 Sailboats
Going over the anchorages south of here at the awesome cruisers lounge at Marina Papagayo, Costa Rica
10° 38.4496 N 085° 39.2371 W
VHF 23A Tel: +506 2690 3600
Tel: +1 888-863-0301
info@marinapapagayo.com
For Rental cars in the Cocos area and in the marina contact Toyota
They bring cars directly to the Marina for about 50 US x day
Call +506 6054-3279
Francisco Bolaños - Zone Coordinator
fbolaños@toyotarent.com
5) Red Frog Marina, Bocas de Toros, Panama
We are now picking our way through the Trade Winds in the Caribbean but would like to let everyone know about Red Frog Marina in Bocas Las Toros on the Caribbean side of Panama. Truly a great find! A beautiful and protected location, reasonably priced considering La Playita and Shelter Cove. Friendly staff and access to all the resort amenities.... restrauants, edgeless pool, electric carts to take you around, and great WiFi! All at a discount ! We then spent a couple of weeks on Isla Providencia with some great cruisers and are now discovering Roatan while waiting for the Trades to die down.
Doug & Nancy
FISHVICIOUS
6) Chiapas, MX
Marina Chiapas buses: Walking up the exit from the marina to the main road, after maybe a tenth of a mile, you cross the road and you can catch one of the Combi buses (vans) going into the main town of Tapachula to the left. The van has a dolphin on the side and goes by the main airport and the first stop in town is the Sam’s Club. Next is Walmart with the Home Depot across the street. The cost of the van is 25 pesos. It’s about a half hour to Walmart. You pay when you exit the van.
In the Walmart mall, there are other shops like optical shops, shoes, GNC, etc. and a little food court. To get back home, just catch a van going the other way.
Robert & Carol
Singularity
7) Marina Ixtapa, MX IXTAPA update. The dredging of the main channel is finished. There are no longer restrictions on entry times. We saw the dredger working the sides.
The tide chart for our arrival predicted a +.5’ tide and with our 7’ draft we saw 1.1’ under the keel just after the outer entrance.
While this was the only ‘shallow’ place, be sure to consult the tide chart when there are much larger tidal swings.
Jessica & Adam
VOLARE
8) Additional long term planning dates
Golfito Marina Village an IGY Destination Golfito, Costa Rica May 1st ’19)
Rally Completion & Award Event Vista Mar Panama May 25th ’19)
9) FREE GOOD NAUTICAL MEMBERSHIP
All relevant knowledge and fleet updates are being compiled into
Good Nautical an official 501(c)3 non-profit organization
All Fleet Update contributors will of course have access to all the shared data from Mexico through Panama.
Fuel docks, Anchorages, Marinas, National Parks, Routes, a.m.o.
Please email us to get your free login credentials and tutorial.
10) WEEKLY 2018-2019 PANAMA POSSE FLEET CHECK IN and MORNING NET on MONDAY'S at 16:00 UTC via LINE
It's a new way of doing things - please download and install LINE https://line.me/en-US/Â
Works on Android / ios / Windows / MAC OS
- Register using your vessel name as the USERNAME ie SV SEAGLUB
- Next search for panamaposse or SV Carinthia or Seaglub and befriend us -
- wait and accept your PANAMAPOSSE GROUP INVITE
11) PANAMA POSSE HOWLER MONKEY MARKETING and PROMOTIONPlease help us promote the Panama Posse with sailors, marinas, yachtclubs and chandleries
- if you are currently near a marina please print out this PDF in color and post it on the wall.
For extra fun (we did this last year) print it out and take a selfie with it on your vessel !
https://route.panamaposse.com/artwork/NOTICE_OF_A_RALLY_l.pdf
The Official Panama Posse Press Release - please forward it to your contacts and friends in the media
https://panamaposse.com/for-immediate-release-2018
12) Please reply to this email with any updates - your vessel location -
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Dietmar & Suzanne
SV Carinthia
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FLEET UPDATE 2019 - 03 - 03
1) Picture of the week
Vistamar Marina, Panama on the last full moon.
From the Free Spirit Crew
Jon, Kristi & Crew
FREE SPIRIT
2) Puesta del Sol Marina, Nicaragua
Nicaragua is very special to us. We have been traveling to Northern Nicaragua to surf for the past 4 years. The first time I arrived in Aposentillo to my friends' surf camp, I fell in love with the people, the tranquility, the beauty, the beaches and the surf. We went on a boat trip in the estuary and as we passed Puesta del Sol Marina I said "someday I'm gonna bring my boat here" and four years later we made good on that promise.
Puesta del Sol is worth the stop. Nicaragua has some big city problems but out at the beach, an hour away from the nearest city, you would never know, it's muy tranquilo.
The entrance to the estuary has plenty of water but the channel is narrow and winding and some of the channel markers have gone astray so be sure to arrive during daylight. Try to email Juanita at the marina at least two or three days ahead of time if possible. When you approach the channel hail the marina on the VHF it may take a while to get a response. It's a pretty sleepy operation. A lot of the marina crew does double duty as security and maintenance staff as well. Either way you will be met at the dock with extra hands to help you tie the lines. Port Captain, Immigration and Customs come to the marina for a very easy check in... It's all pretty casual. They don't get a ton of cruisers so just be sure to double check that all the passports have been stamped and name of vessel is correct, etc. Juanita speaks English and will stand by to help with any questions or clarification.
The marina facilities are beautiful and well maintained. The staff is extremely friendly and helpful. Juanita manages the marina and hotel and she is the most wonderful lady. The marina showers are inside the main building behind the office. The restaurant serves a variety of delicious food. It closes as 6pm. The bar overlooking the estuary is open later. Be sure to go get your complimentary welcome drink (Toña Beer or Rum and Coke). There is a self service laundry room behind the main building. It takes US quarters. There is 24 hour security. The wifi was complimentary when we were there. Make sure to walk out to the Beach Palapa. You will probably have it all to yourselves. You can bring your own snacks and swim in the beautiful infinity pool overlooking the ocean. The security guard has a fridge full of cold beers and sodas and you can charge them to your marina account. The tennis courts are fun if you have your own gear. One of the best things about Marina Puesta del Sol is the well stocked veggie truck that makes deliveries straight to the marina on Sundays, Tuesdays and Fridays. Just be sure to tell Juanita you would like to get veggies and she will tell the security guard to flag down the veggie truck as it comes through town. It usually comes between 11:30 am and 1pm. Some days a little later. You know... Nica Time.
Within walking distance of the Marina... If you go right just outside the marina gate on the main road towards the fishing village you will see a tiendas on the right just across from the school. It's owned by an American expat named Bodhi. He can also arrange boat trips for fishing or checking out some of the many surf breaks near by. The tienda is well stocked and he can order anything in from chinendega if you have a few days to wait. He also has horses for riding on the beach and surfboards for rent. Also in the fishing village are Joe's hostal serving cheap local food and a small bar across from the panga landing with pool tables and a juke box. Dirt floors, very local flavor. If you go straight out of the marina gate on the main road first on your right is a well stocked tienda. Next on the right is Badaboom hostal, great for snacks and drinks at somewhat local prices. Right next to Badaboom is Tanya's Fritanga (or Nica style BBQ). Tanja sets up tables in her back patio and is open most nights. The food is delicious, cheap and filling. Bring a to go container for leftovers. Further up the road on the left is Pedro's. He's got WiFi and can fix cell phones, set you up with a sim card. The breakfast is yummy and the smoothies are so good. He also rents motos and bicycles that have surfboard racks. For local entertainment try to catch a baseball, kickball or soccer game on Sundays at the field across the school in Aserradores or down the road in Manzanillo. Also check out Badaboom Hostal for weekend festivities. While we were there they had a new years party, bocce ball tournaments, volleyball tournaments and what is best described as Nica Style Highland games with pig wrestling where the prize is the pig you wrestle, and pole climbing where you work as a team to get the bottle of rum at the top of a slippery telephone pole. Las Dunas beach resort has salsa night on Thursdays.
Further afield but worth the effort... If you get yourself a moto or a car it opens up so many possibilities. A nearby surf spot is at Playa Aposentillo. You will meet friendly locals and expats on the beach and the waves are good for learning or longboarding. At Nahualapa Bay the waves are a little bigger but the rides are longer. Perfect for longboarding on a small day. After surfing spend an afternoon relaxing at Tapas and Surf. Good food, good drinks, good vibes. If you crave carbs and good drinks head up the hill to Al Cielo. Owned by two French guys, they make awesome pizza, pasta, infused rum drinks and keep a well stocked wine cellar. If you ask nicely, they will even send you home with fresh french bread right out of the oven. The views are spectacular so make sure to get there to watch the sunset.
Chinendega is an easy 45 minute ride by car. Longer but much cheaper on the chicken bus, ask Juanita about bus times. You can get most anything you need there. There is a Maxi Pali and for imported grocery items, La Colonia. There is a municipal market where you can score on prices but even the locals keep close tabs on their wallets here. The banks are all on the same intersection in middle of town and if you are looking for a yummy local lunch spot, try La Parrillada. Buffet style, cheap and delicious. Just outside of Chinendega is Flor de Caña Rum Distillery. They do a great tour for $10 USD per person. And if you have time, try to catch a baseball game at the stadium. It's a hoot and you can get box seats where the bartender comes to you for $15 USD. The most fun game I've been to. If you are up for a hike and some adventure, head to Leon and try volcano boarding on Cerro Negro Volcano. Leon also has a french bakery and the mojitos at Bigfoot hostal are delicious. The main plaza in Leon is beautiful and you can go up to the roof of the white church for some awesome rooftop photos.
If you are into volunteering, there are definitely opportunities. We threw a Christmas party for the kids at the school in Aserradores. There is an organization called Waves of Hope that does a ton of work with the local schools. Or just bring a trash bag with you and do a beach clean when you go surfing.
A few last things. The sailing off the coast of Nicaragua has been some of the most pleasant and enjoyable we have had since, well since leaving California. Steady fresh breezes, comfortable wind angles, clear blue water. We waited for good weather windows and were rewarded with really fun passages. We even snuck out of the marina to go booze cruising with friends at sunset a few times because the sailing was that good.
We have since moved on to Costa Rica, but will definitely returning to Nicaragua for mas olas, amigos, y Toña time!
Pictures 1. Here's a picture of the salt water pool at playa Aposentillo, look for it near the rocky point at low tide.
2. Beisbol game at the stadium in Chinendega with Pati and Eic from SV Shearwater. Vamos Tigres!
3. The view from the marina pool with San Cristobal smoking in the distance.
Victoria, Rowan & Crew
TALIESIN ROSE
3) Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Shearwater got their burgee delivered !
4) Ixtapa Zihuatanejo, MX
Want to give a shout out to two local businesses and their proprietor's. Pariso Escondido in the playa Norte anchorage of Isle Grande is owned by Juan, his family started in 1950's. He was a great host and makes everyone feel at home in short order "Tequila" Tina was great as well. Good seafood under the palapa great staff. They hosted our daughters 15th B day party got us a great cake and had great zarendiado snapper. It's a easy water taxi ride to the town and a great surf spot at playa Linda. Juan also introduced us to the Verboonen's a Las Gatas family who have had restaurants on the playa for multiple generations. Hiram is a pro Mexican surfer as well as his daughter Pamela. They were nice enough to take our daughter Violet surfing on multiple occasions. Hiram and His wife Erika were wonderful hosts. Their families have several restaurants at Las Gatas beach. We ate at Hirams family restaurant "Che Arnoldo" without a doubt this is the best seafood we have had in Mexico and possibly some of the best seafood ever. Unique presentation and dishes in a amazing setting. Can't recommend it enough great stuff!!
La India Huatulco, MX
We hoped to stop in Puerto Angel but the harbor is more or less filled with panga moorings and the open areas are all exposed to the swell. We continued on to La India which we had not been in for 15 years. we were happy to find it in the same state as when we had left. The reefs are buoyed off to keep people from anchoring on but it is still a great spot to sit out the weather in the gulf on flat super clear clean water. A bow stern is advised and there is room for several boats. The tourist boats fill it up in the day but keep crew on board so not a problem.
Chiapas, MX
Had a great visit loved the Puebla Madera and Tapalachula. This is a true big city and very easy ride from the marina. Can get pretty much whatever you want or need, a whole city block of dentists.
Bahia Del Sol, El Salvador
Nice people, great spot to work on the boat in flat water. Would not approach the bar here in anything other than mild conditions. The northern and southern options to hold over make a foul or questionable wx crossing here unnecessary.
Off to points south soon.
Timothy “Jake”, Burgandy & Violet
SASSAFRASS
5) Isla Grande Ixtapa, MX
Rick & Diana ( headshot & pictures please - part of next years posse )
Tiki Notion
6) SAVE THESE DATES & SPONSORS
Wednesday, May 1st - Panama Posse Labor Day Party @ Golfito Marina Village an IGY Destination, Costa Rica
Saturday, May 25th - Season Finale - Panama Posse 18-19 Yacht Fest @ Vista Mar Marina - Panama
For the list of all Sponsors please go to
https://www.panamaposse.com/sponsors
7) Huatulco Waterfalls, MX
Did the Huatulco inland waterfalls and old coffee farm tour with Enrique Pinacho's crew and enjoyed it enormously. A few notes to add tho. Tour was in a taxi, no big deal to us, but it might mater to you. Coffee farm does not appear to be really active with coffee, but they make a killer Tamarindo pork! The waterfalls we're super fun! Good day away from the boat before we jump on a four day passage!
Juan & Michelle
Ay Caramaba !
8) Chiapas, MX
We just arrived outside Chiapas, drifting until the marina opens to give us a slip. Dep Acapulco 0945 23Feb and sailed/drifted until we arrived off Puerto Angel the night of 26Feb. Still no wind on the 27th, but we continued sailing very slowly toward Chiapas until we snagged a poly long-line at approx 15-30.7N 96-08.5W. Fortunately, we weren’t motoring at the time. The fishermen came up in their boat and were able to cut the line, remove it from the prop and tie it back together. We started the engine and headed toward Chiapas a little faster.
We came across several more long-lines in the next 5-10 miles. I think the best strategy is to look for the flag at the end of the line, then head directly toward the flag until you can determine which side of the flag the line is going and then steer around the correct side of the flag. You can see the flag from a couple miles away. You cannot count on the fishermen being anywhere close to the line. Three times they were - once, they unhooked us, the next guy pushed two floats together to drop the line enough for us to pass and the third guy just watched us go over the line without giving us any direction - (fortunately, the line was low enough for the boat to pass over). About three other lines were totally unmanned.
We sailed when we had wind and motored when we didn’t and took about 48 hours to cross the Tpec bay and arrive here; timing it to arrive after sunrise. The forecast was mostly accurate. When the wind came up at first, it was directly astern. The beam wind didn’t start until we were close to the center.
We sailed a straight line from Puerto Angel 15-35.397N 96-30.536W to 14-41.608N 92-25.497W. Doing it over, I would probably go 5nm further offshore from Angel and maybe we would have missed all those long lines. Once we arrived in Marina Chiapas and waited for the customs, Puerto de Capitanía officer, and Navy to inspect the vessel. You have to go through the inspection before checking into the marina office and going to the fuel dock. We heard that the concrete dock of the fuel dock is too far out of the water except at high tide. If the tide is low, there is a possibility that the bottom of the concrete would be above the toe rail. So we’ll need to fuel tomorrow.
We also learned that we have to travel to the Guatemalan boarder to have our TIP cancelled. About $1,000mx for that trip.
We plan to stay for at least a week and probably longer to do some touring of the area. The restaurant in the Marina is very good with a unique Piña Colada recipe with cinnamon. They also hand-make the salsa at the table with mortar and pestle.
Wi-FI in the marina is NOT good. The restaurant’s free wi-FI with Facebook check-in was very good, so we may be spending some time over there.
Fuel dock in Chiapas. I would highly recommend going at high tide. These pics were taken at high tide.
Robert & Carol
SINGULARITY
9) Mechanic in Playas del Coco, Costa Rica
Simple Life, on the hook at Playas del Coco. Plenty of wind last few days, all offshore, nice flat sea. Landing on beach not so bad, if one is prepared to get wet. Had a few things to fix here - replace steering cable, fix fuel supply issue. All good now, so I’ll head out next day or so.
If anyone needs a mechanic in Playas del Coco, Alan at Coco Marine will tackle anything. He’s done some good work for me on replacing steering cable, and solving a tricky engine fuel issue. He also works on outboards. +506 8410-8419
Eamonn & Catherine
SIMPLE LIFE
10) Punta Cabeza Negra, MX
Anchored in Punta Cabeza Negra with stern anchor to point us.
18°36'N 103°41' WBig 8'+ seas from Zihuatinejo entire 25 hrs. Super Dog Sam needs a beach break!
Phillip Jay & Kelley
JO
11) Panama Canal, Panama
My Panama Canal advice...FWIW....
Work with Erik Galvez ( note he is our official Panama Posse Canal Agent )
Everything was done in Panama City and it would have been easier to just go there directly but the marinas are very expensive and anchorage are rolly. Balboa Yacht Club was $40/night for nothing but a mooring ball and boat to shore service.
Now that I’ve done it and had time to reflect I think I’d do this:
Go to Panama City directly and anchor on east side of Flamenco Island. Email Erik and tell him you’re there and want Measurement the next day. Dinghy in to Flamenco Marina and check in with Port Captain and Immigration. In the same building and easy. Apply for cruising permit at Port Captains office. Can take 1-3 days (!) so it’s good to be close. Go to Playita Anchorage next morning by 7 AM for Canal Measurement and expect to wait 1-5 hours. Easy process once they show up by boat. Go back to Flamenco anchorage then to Port Captain to check on Cruisers Permit. Expect to have to come back the next day. Go explore Old City. Keep going back to port captains office until you get Prermit. Go to Vista Mar Marina for best rate in world and prepare for Canal transit. Eric
SPREZZATURA
12) Please reply to this email with ... anything really
- your updates
- contenders for picture of the week - links to your favorite SONGS
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and we'll include it in the next FLEET UPDATE - Keep em 'coming
Dietmar & Suzanne
CARINTHIA
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