DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

DISCOVERING MAKATEA 🇵🇫 THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND

Outer Fringing Reef of Makatea

The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia.  The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon.  Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide.  Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon.  The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day.  The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small.  On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.

SV WHIRLWIND on anchor in the lagoon of Rangiroa

While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift.  40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea.  This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited.  Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level.  Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level.  While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs.  The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.

Sunrise at Makatea

Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa.  It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt.  We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.

On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor.  The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain.  Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available.  With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef.  We marveled at the scene.  While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea.  WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore.  It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore.  Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring.  (Thank you Captain!).

The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores.  A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region.  A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens.  A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.

Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea.  The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks.   There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.

Makatea Harbor today

It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits.  Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s.  The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s.  Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea.  The mining industry was quickly established.  Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site.  Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island.  According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory.   At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”

Early 1900s after phosphate extraction began large ships would moor offshore awaiting loads of ore
Makatea harbor in the mid 1900's

The phosphate ore was all hand dug and men were paid by the wheelbarrow load
Eventually, rail lines were laid and rail cars were used to transport material to the harbor

And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of  weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind.  During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated.  An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts.  People came and people went.  Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were.  The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart.  Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.

A jungle vine growing up a concrete wall
The extrated phosphate was in the form of dust that sat in these limestone 'holes'

A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment.  The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished.  One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.

While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat.  It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast.  Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination.  Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special.  There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking.  The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.

Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade.  This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018.  The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet.  We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line.  We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim  and deeply refreshing cooldown.   I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.

Looking across the zipline out to the Ocean from a bridge along the Via Ferrata
Walking along the Via Ferrata
Snorkel Masks make exploring the deep, clear water cave even more amazing!

The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea.  His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well.  He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era.   Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit.  I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.

The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018.  Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in.  The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future.  May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island.  So far, it looks good!

Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.

SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND


INFINITY YACHTS BOAT FOR SALE IN MEXICO

INFINITY YACHTS BOAT FOR SALE IN MEXICO

1986 Custom Pinta Exception 52 Trimaran for sale - YachtWorld

Infinity Yachts is also highlighting: 1990 Sceptre 43 | 43ft  

FOR SALE in La Cruz Mexico. Asking $149,000.

 

AND: 1996 Beneteau First 42s7 | 42ft

FOR SALE in La Cruz Mexico. Asking 95k USD

PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA

PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA

MV HO’OKIPA is cruising in the Baltic Sea.  They keep record of their voyage and have shared with the Ocean Posse a part of their recent journey from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel Germany with many stops along the way.  Thank you Ho’okipa for this window into cruising in the Baltic Sea: the beauty, the oops'ies, the lessons and the realities along the way.    Below is a screenshot of their track.  To zoom in on their various spots follow this link.

MV HO'OKIPA's track from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel, Germany.
Chuck scans their first anchorage in Soviken.

MV HO’OKIPA writes:

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN TO KIEL, GERMANY

Sunday September 1st, 2024  From Stockholm we headed back out to the archipelago the way we came in and headed to an anchorage, Soviken. It’s 52 nm. It takes us 7 hrs. 10 min at 7.25 knots average speed.  Location: 58 47 .603N 017 51.050E  It’s a secluded anchorage with protection from the no. winds. The chart was confusing, and we almost went into an area thinking that was the anchorage. It was a shallow area and had we kept going it would have been terrible, rocks everywhere. Luckily, our instincts told us to drop anchor where we were in 24 ft.  When in doubt don’t do it.

The next morning cruise forty miles to Harstena Flisjarden. Instead of going down the coast we are going to go across the bay (about 3.5 hours) where Norrkoping is and directly to these islands east of Valdemarsvik. Per usual, as we have come to learn, we must pass through a narrow shallow cut to get to the deeper bay and anchorage.  58 15 .659N 017 09. 491E Stunning place. In the summer, this place will have 50 boats. Thankfully, there are just 3 others now.  It’s a big enough bay that we all have room and privacy. It felt like being on a lake in the Sierras with the pine trees and rock outcrops. We did notice jelly fish surrounding our boat, just like the previous anchorage.  They appear to be ones that do not sting. Of course, with the cold-water temperature I am not going swimming in any case.

The beautiful anchorage in Harstena is usually crowded with about 50 boats.  Ho'okipa was pleased to anchor in the company of a mere 3 other boats.
Marker along the way.
Mjödö, offered us a very protected anchorage after a choppy day underway.  So peaceful in Mjödö.

Choppy today with 2-3 ft swell. Had to find a protected anchorage. We opt for Mjödö around some islands along the mainland. Requires following the buoy system through the shallow waters. 40 nm takes 6 hrs. 34 min. average speed 6.13kts. 57 46.809N 016 41.586E  It’s empty of course as the season is over. But clearly a summer camp area. We normally would spend more time at these anchorages and meander more. However, the season has ended and although the weather has been unusually nice, we must be in Malmö, Sweden Sept 19th where we have an appointment with Swedish Immigration to apply for a temporary resident permit. Plus, we need the transformer work done and the European rep must meet us and do the work before September 28th.

In the morning, we continued south about 40 nm to an anchorage in Tillingeo. It’s near a port and lies off a quaint suburban area. We anchor i20 feet in a small cove.  57 16 .833N 016 29 463E

Depart early to head south but the anchor caught on a buried cable. Had to spin the boat 360 degrees to detach. Was a little unnerving. Could have been a big problem. Of course, had we looked at the chart carefully we would have seen the symbol for a cable running right under where we anchored. Good lesson. That’s what that means. Don’t anchor near a cable as you may hook your anchor around it. Doink!

Heading to Kalmar, an old historic walled town on the coast. It’s 42.8 nm, 6 hours at 7kts. 56 39.614N 016 21.907E  We get a slip for 2 nights (660 SEK. Or $33 a night) alongside the dock at the small marina near the center of old town with its cobblestone streets. It’s a quaint town, and the castle with its moat are walking distance from the marina.

Historic walled town of Kalmar

We learn that the marina in Copenhagen cannot import the transformer and ensure that the VAT is waived. The European rep suggests we have the work done in Germany, where he’s from, and that we will not have to pay the VAT in Germany. On his advice we have the transformer shipped to Kiel, Germany and we will now head there for the installation.

Saturday September 7, 2024, We leave Kalmar. We decide to go all the way to Utklippan, a tiny island off Sweden. About 51nm. Tomorrow, we think we will head to Bornholm Island which is part of Denmark and stay there until the rough weather heading this way passes. Then we will press on to the German coast. Utklippan is just a rock posing as an islet. You can walk around it in minutes except when the tiny harbor is in the way. There is a very narrow walled entrance (100ft wide) to the outer small harbor and then a slit into the inner harbor which is even smaller. Very intimidating. We must tie up along the cement dock which is high. The cleats are big bollards. It’s windy but sheltered. 55 57 .284N 015 42.218E

Weather is moving in so in the morning we make straight for Borlholm Island and the town of Hasle on the west coast. 55 11.211N 014 42.209E  It’s 60.58nm and takes 9 hr. 4 min. at 6.68 kts average speed. This Danish island is in the Baltic Sea southeast of Sweden north of Germany. There is a small marina at Hasle, a fishing town that was once famous for its smoked fish houses. We can pay for the slip using a credit card at the machine by the Kiosk. $62 a night. There are a few other boats and a sauna across from the marina. We can easily walk to town. We stayed 4 nights to wait for a mild weather window to do the overnight passage to Kiel. The island is beautiful countryside with a few small towns. We get the motorcycle down and explore. Tour a small glass blowing factory and artisan studio, dine at a traditional old fish smoke house, visit the main town of Ronne, and walked around its old cobblestone streets, and admire the old Lutheran Church with a stain glass window over the alter featuring a fishing boat.

Ronne, Bornholm
Fehmarn Island Bridge
Near Inlet to Kiel and Kiel Canal

Thursday Sept 12, 2024. The forecast was for 3-foot seas and winds to 14 knots with gusts 18. The problem was swell wind was on our nose. And the swell period was 3-4 seconds. Not great at all. Changed course to get a smoother ride and it was a 2-hour delay. The entire day was like this. I felt like we were not making headway. in the early afternoon, the autopilot went off. “Drive Stopped” error. Not good. While I was steering the boat, C went to trouble shoot and checked all the connections. Nothing. We have Starlink SAT connection so checked online and on a Raymarine Forum a tech said sometimes you can tap on the device with a mallet and get the sensor (?) brushes unstuck. Charles tried it and it worked!!!  Lots of cargo ships, tankers and cruise liners are out. This is a major throughfare. Wind farms dot the coasts too. When it’s dark lights are everywhere from various ships, buoys, lighthouses. Took two-hour shifts at the helm. We had calm seas all night for which we were grateful.

 We reached the start of the passage that takes us between Fehmarn Island and the main coast of Germany. Still not light enough to see but the Flir infrared camera helps, and the chart is spot on. We slow down to let the morning light pick up. Perfect timing. After passing the first set of buoys we could start to see the outlines of the green and red buoys that were not lit. The buoys are only spaced 350 feet apart. No other vessels. Going under bridges is fun. As soon as we got out of the gap the wind and swell picked up. Nice and choppy again but at least it’s not right on the nose. Spend the next couple of hours getting to the outskirts of Kiel and our Marina Rajhe. But first we had to avoid the German military area. I just happened to zoom in on the chart to see what all the dotted lines meant. It’s a danger zone with active military shooting exercises. We had to circle around it instead of a straight shot across the bay to the inlet that leads to the canal and the city of Kiel. Took an extra hour or so. Lots of sailboats and ships coming and going. Marina Rajhe is a mile west of the canal entrance which is a mile west of Kiel. We made it into the marina at 1300.  54 23.124N 010 09.979E

Raising their courtesy flag in Germany
Ho'okipa tied to the dock at Marina Rajhe, Kiel, Germany

MV HO'OKIPA 🇺🇸  Lisa & Chuck - Selene 43'

 

 

 THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES ON THE WATER IN THE BALTIC SEA!!


ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO

ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO

Hurricane Otis devastated and destroyed much of the Port of Acapulco in October 2023. Today the City is still recovering and once again welcoming people by land, air, and sea.

Hurricane Otis was the result of a tropical storm that rapidly intensified off the coast of Acapulco in October 2023.  No one expected it and everyone was caught off-guard.  In the dark of night three 20 foot waves came through the bay and destroyed everything.  In one fell swoop the entire Acapulco Yacht Club was thrown on land.  Four marinas were obliterated.  Boats got swamped and sunk rapidly.  650 boats were destroyed or sunk.  Some people escaped with their lives, others did not.

A longtime friend of the Posse, Vincente, who lived in the bay and managed several mooring buoys experienced a horrific tragedy.  He and his wife, son, and grandson were sleeping aboard their boat the night Otis hit.  His boat was among those quickly destroyed and sunk.  He was the only one aboard who survived.  The city was an absolute mess immediately following the Hurricane.  Power, water, and cell towers were out and it took weeks to discover that Vincente had survived.  Many Posse members pooled donations to help him and he was very grateful.  The memorial for his loved ones is this weekend;

Vincente's family memorial announcement

In the aftermath of Otis's devastation, the Mexican government sent in assistance to help lift the boats out of the bay and get the city out from under the rubble.  It has been a long road and true to many Mexican coastal towns the spirit of recovery has gotten them far and, by the sounds of it, the people of Acapulco are still working to get their Port town back.  We reached out to Vincente to see how he is doing and what he could share for Posse members cruising to Acapulco this season.

Vincente shares:

Buenas noches Capitán envío las respuestas a sus cuestionamientos que me fueron enviados:
A un año del huracan Otis le puedo decir que nos estamos recuperando lentamente en todos los aspectos y confiamos en que muy pronto tendremos el Acapulco de antes del Huracán Otis.
El turismo no a dejado de visitarnos tanto nacional como internacional poco pero siempre tenemos turismo en el Puerto.
La costa actualmente está bien dentro de lo que cabe.
La bahía en este momento puede recibir a todos los visitantes que vienen navegando y tenemos ya listas las bollas de amarre para darles un excelente servicio cuando sean requeridos.
Informo a usted que no fueron recuperados ninguno de los barcos porque el gobierno los retiró como chatarra.
Los amarres en la bahía se siguen gestionando a la hora que sean requeridos.
Informo a usted también que seguimos desembarcando en el mismo lugar de siempre.
Reafirmó a usted que quedó a sus órdenes para cualquier servicio o acciones en las cuales podamos apoyarlos anexo mi tarjeta y quedó a sus órdenes saludos

(TRANSLATION)

Good evening Captain, I am sending the answers to your questions that were sent to me:
A year after Hurricane Otis I can tell you that we are slowly recovering in all aspects and we trust that very soon we will have the Acapulco that we had before Hurricane Otis.
Tourism has not stopped visiting us, both nationally and internationally, but we always have tourism in the Port.
The coast is currently doing well within what is possible.
The bay can currently receive all the visitors who come sailing and we already have the mooring bollards ready to give them an excellent service when they are required.
I inform you that none of the boats were recovered because the government removed them as scrap.
The moorings in the bay are still being managed at the time they are required.
I also inform you that we continue to land in the same place as always.
I reaffirm to you that I remain at your service for any service or actions in which we can support you. I enclose my card and I remain at your service. Regards.

Vincente comes by with a smile to offer assistance to cruisers on his mooring balls

Contact him here >>>

OTIS 2023

The financial toll of the storm is estimated to be between $12 billion and $16 billion, making it one of the most costly tropical cyclones in Mexico's history. The storm devastated the region, destroying over 51,000 homes, damaging more than 250,000 others, and displacing over 34,000 households. Additionally, around 80% of Acapulco’s hotels were affected, severely disrupting the local tourism industry, which is crucial to the region’s economy. Hurricane Otis caused significant damage to vessels, especially in Acapulco. The storm destroyed 480+ public tourist boats, and at least 33 vessels sank in Acapulco Bay. Additionally, some boats were rescued near Playa Manzanillo, and others were found in the bay of Puerto Marqués.


SV GARGOYLE PASSED THROUGH THE CORINTH CANAL IN GREECE

SV GARGOYLE PASSED THROUGH THE CORINTH CANAL IN GREECE

 

Gargoyle and her crew are enjoying the last few weeks of the season cruising with family in Greece. This week we've made the transition west from the Saronic Gulf to the Ionian Sea via the incredible Corinth canal. To make things perfect, our daughter and son-in-law have joined us for a ten day stay before we head towards our winter home, Malta's Manoel Island Yacht Marina. Cheers from warm and sunny Greece!


BERMUDA DIGITAL CHARTS

BERMUDA DIGITAL CHARTS IN MBTILES FORMAT

THE ABOVE FILES ARE FOR LOGGED IN USERS ONLY


SAILING NOTES FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR OCEAN VOYAGERS

Sailing Notes from the South Pacific for Ocean Voyagers

Geologically young and dramatically, steep, mountainous Marquesan islands jut skyward out of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Tikis and coconut palms look out to sea.
The Ocean Posse is working to bring three posses together: the Atlantic posse, the Panama posse and the Pacific Posse so that we will have better overlap to share information and benefits across the oceans that we sail.  Some have crossed oceans that others are considering crossing.  Here, I will share notes from the South Pacific for people considering sailing to the South Pacific, or for those that just want to vicariously enjoy the cerulean blues, coconut palms, island communities spread throughout the South Pacific.
Presently, SV WHILRWND is underway in the Tuamotus, the second of five island groups in French Polynesian that we have visited since making landfall from Panama in May 2024. The Tuamotus, are sometimes referred to as ‘the dangerous islands’ for all the low lying fringing coral reefs boats can and have run aground on which require careful navigation.  So far, with a person on bow watch, the charts on Navionics, and multiple satellite overlays in OPEN CPN navigating the Tuamotus has been very fun.  There is a timing element one must consider when entering and exiting the atolls, between atolls we are sailing in the open ocean with ocean swell instantly, and within the atolls we are sailing in lagoons with little to no waves navigating coral bommies looking for a calm spot in the sand to drop our anchor.
So many different shades of blue in the Tuamotus atoll lagoons.
Slivers of fringing reef encircle blue lagoons studded with coral heads called "bommies"
Over the past two months, We have had the good fortune to see an abundance of coral and undersea life, more blue hues than I knew existed, and a few of the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales that come annually to the oceanic islands of the South Pacific to breed and calf.  According to a cruising marine biologist friend the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales will be turning back towards their summer feeding grounds off Antarctica in the next few weeks. There is a singular raised atoll in the NW part of the Tuamotus called Makatea where, in settled conditions, one can anchor outside the atoll on the leeward side and possibly see whales this time of year.  Looking at the weather with this possibility in mind we saw a sweet weather window that looked perfect for an adventure: two days of downwind sailing from Fakarava to Makatea in time for the wind to die off for three calm days anchored in the lee of the island, followed by wind from the south to carry us north to Tikihau where there is a manta ray feeding station, and on Rangiroa the second larges atoll in the world.  We have friends coming in on October 11th and as all cruisers know this hard stop commitment presents an added element into every sailing schedule.  Guests visiting the Tuamotus fly into Tahiti and then take an inner island flight to the Tuamotus. Interestingly, many atolls have airports: Fakarava and Rangiroa being the two largest atolls have airports that are more frequented than others. So, (Option 1) we could stay in and around Fakarava until our guests come (very relaxing) or (Option 2) we could go on a little atoll tour and make our way to Rangiroa to meet them (an adventure). We decided that the weather window looked good for an adventure and the plan was sound.
Our 'plan' was to sail from Fakarava for two days, spend a few days on the leeward side of Makatea, then sail to Tikihau for a few days and around to Rangiroa to pick up our friends.
Downwind sailing with the mainsail, mizzen, and spinnaker
We weighed anchor in time to catch the high water slack and sail through the exit in the southern pass.  After exiting the atoll, one is in the ocean immediately and we noted a long slow 1m southerly swell. The conditions were great and we set our kite for a smooth downwind sail.  A few hours in our buddies received an email from a French weather service sending out an alert to all mariners of a significant southern swell developing and moving north into the Tuamotus. We pulled up the weather and, sure enough, although the wind was still forecast to be settled in a few days around Makatea the swell was going to be too big to comfortably anchor on the outside of the atoll much less enter through the pass of an atoll.  We decided to reroute to Tikihau and save Makatea for another time.
There is a 'plan' and then there is the reality that unfolds when new information comes to light, conditions change, and the route must change as well.
We arrived outside Tikihau in the night, hove to outside the entrance, and waited for the low slack at first light. Upon arriving in Tikihau the weather forecast changed multiple times over the course of the day. In the southern hemisphere winter has just turned to spring and now this northern hemisphere sailor can say the spring weather down here is as fickle as one might expect in the spring: changing so often it’s hard to hang you hat on much beyond the immediate conditions. There are significant blows coming in and out of the forecast and still a large swell coming with mixed forecasts on how long it will affect this part of the Tuamotus. Based on these changing forecasts and the expected conditions in the passes when the swell arrives we have now determined that today, seems to be the best day in the next ten (when our friends are to arrive) to make our way from Tikihau to Rangiroa, so we are underway once more.
No matter the ocean, the weather calls the shots.  So far, sailing in the South Pacific has been nothing short of a dynamic adventure demanding that we constantly keep an eye on the weather and a sharp lookout over the bow.  While on lookout this morning we saw manta rays entering the Pass into Tihihau and dolphins surfing our bow as we set out into the ocean to Rangiroa...and we still could see a whale.
Sailing to Rangiroa: the second largest atoll in the world.
For cruisers looking to the South Pacific for adventure; crossing the ocean to get here is an epic adventure in and of itself.  Most people set sail for the South Pacific from points west in the late winter/early spring.  Presently, many cruisers are beginning to rub their palms together, eyeing up routes and weather patterns, running through their inventory of parts and spares, making lists, reading about storm tactics and high sea debacles, and/or taking care of a host or pre-departure maintenance or upgrades.  Shaking down our fears can also be a big part of mentally preparing for a ocean voyage.  Some, like my friend, may be wondering, "What were your scariest moments on the passage (to French Polynesia)?"
Taking a panoramic shot aboard SV WHIRLWIND out at sea while rocking and rolling.  Fear can feel like this: exaggerated and out of control.
In jest, my husband and our captain said, "the day we realized we didn't bring enough rum."  That was more sad really, but nothing we can't get over.
More sincerely, he said, "The day the autohelm and went a little wacky and (he) had visions of the rudder breaking loose."  Terrifying!  Indeed, one of our worst nightmares.  That 'wackiness' was rectified at sea with no major drama.  And we installed a back up autohelm before leaving Panama Bay.
In my most sincere and more lengthy response, I shared:  We spent 30 days at sea: they were both utterly glorious and unexpectedly difficult at times. A huge realization for me was that the infamous Coconut Milk Run starts west of French Polynesia….or maybe in French Polynesia…or maybe to the east...it’s the Eden out there somewhere, the Fair Winds and the Following Seas of every sailors dreams.  As we set out to cross the Pacific we actually thought we were on the Coconut Milk Run from Panama to the Marquesas.  So when we got out there and spent far longer in confused seas than we ever imagined could be part of a 'Coconut Milk Run' we joked, desperately at times while tossing chaotically in a confusion of seas and open sky, saying “this is coconut milk!? I imagined something sweet and smooth not a frothy mess" Or, "If this is coconut milk, I’ll stick to beer (or rum)!” Crossing the ocean can easily be romanticized…in my experience it is with the adventure ahead of me or behind me that I can romanticize really well about it.  When I am in it, it is usually....well...a Whirlwind of calm joy, uncertainty, chaos, thrill, or somehwere in between.
In preparation, I tried hard to be realistic, to plan for the worst and hope for the best, to be ready for the voyage and not simply long for the destination, to pack the boat full of provisions and spares, to check everything twice sometime thrice.  While the dream to cross the Pacific was years in the making for us and I had years to consider the magnitude of this voyage, still he scariest moment for me was somewhere SW of the Galapagos when I realized how far offshore we were, how much further we had to go, and that there would be no real rest until we were in French Polynesia.  It was nighttime and I woke out of a sleep to my husband, Mike, and our 13 year old son, Russell, reefing the main in sloppy seas and having a heck of a time.  I hopped up to help and the sky was SO big and SO black, spotted more stars than I had ever seen.  I could not immediately see Mike or Russell but somehow the wavetops were illuminated, so swift and heaving.  I was struck with a desperate feeling knowing there was no turning back, still so far to go, and only us to make that happen.  In that moment reefing the main felt goliath, possibly insurmountable, and I had to have a serious talk with myself!  I had to take the task at hand for just the task at hand, not the hundreds of miles we had come or the thousands of miles to go.  I had to just focus and reef the main.  'Stay calm.  Stay Steady.  We got this,' I reminded myself.  Finally, we prevailed.  For whatever reasons, reefing was more than difficult that night and with some mighty cursing and some steady determination we did it.  And then we just moved right along.  The boat settled nicely due to the reef, mind you the seas did not miraculously settle, but the motion certainly improved.  The boys went back on watch, and I to easily slipped back into bed.  For whatever reason, that was my scariest moment.  Basically, when the breadth of what we had set out to do actually hit me like it never quite had before - we were in the middle of the ocean and I felt like an absolute imbecile for only then realizing what I had gotten myself and my family into?!  I thought I had thought it through but in that moment I did not think I had.  I felt enormously overwhelmed by how easily we could get swallowed up.  I also felt that there was no turning back.  (Now in hindsight I know that is not entirely true, but it was certainly how I felt and continuing west was certainly the best option.)  Still, I felt I was stuck and incomprehensibly vulnerable which was truly scary.  The other side of these completely humbling feelings was how absolutely beautiful the stars, the ocean, and the sky were.  Steering away from the overwhelm of fear I definitely made a point to take comfort in the grandeur and holdfast.  It is wild when terrifying can also be infinitely impressive.  There is no doubt the ocean is mighty!  The colors and the expansiveness are nothing short of awe-inspiring making the trials of the adventures worth it....especially when I am on the other side of that particular part of this adventure and can romanticize all about it.
Romantic and Real: Tuamotu sunset.
Lagoon sailing can be exceptionally pleasant.

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND


TRIP REPORT: COLUMBIA INLAND

TRIP REPORT: COLUMBIA INLAND

WITH MV NEXT CHAPTER

MV NEXT CHAPTER sailed from Shelter Bay Marina in August to Cartagena, Colombia.  They explored the city and then travelled inland off the boat.  Their photos and enthusiastic report of their time so far in Colombia follows:

After leaving Panama it is time to raise the Colombian flag

Colombia exceeded our expectations in every way! We weren’t 100% sure what to expect but what we found was incredible people, safe walkable cities, delicious food and affordable prices for work and goods.

Cartagena, Colombia
That's Right.
Fruit Vendor on the street in Cartagena, Colombia
Taking a horse drawn carriage ride through the narrow streets of Cartagena, Colombia.

We stayed at Club de Pesca (they are a posse sponsor and a great marina) if you message their WhatsApp, Maricela Speaks great English and can help with your reservations) book very early as their marina is small and space fills up quickly.

Also at Club de Pesca is phenomenal workers! We had our bright work completely redone, some small fiberglass repairs, a wash and wax. Javier and his team were the best we have ever worked with! If you are stopping there and want his contact info I would be happy to pass it along

We also took side trips (it’s super affordable to fly within Colombia) to Medellín and Bogota. Both cities were incredible, rich culture so much to see and do!

Checking into the city/country was also pretty easy- Jose our agent was $300 and handled all of our paperwork and brought the officials to our boat, applied for our cruising permit and TIP.  You have to check into and out of every major port in Colombia but it’s pretty quick and easy.

Tram in Medellín, Colombia
Palace of Culture in Medellín, Colombia
Shawna and Lexi loving Colombia.
Fernando Botero's Woman on a Bull in Medellin.

Hope this helps other boaters feel comfortable stopping into Colombia! It’s in my opinion and must see country.

Presently, MV NEXT CHAPTER is underway to Santa Marta, Columbia.

MY NEXT CHAPTER 🇺🇸 Chris & Shawna & crew - Selene 59′

  Fair winds MV NEXT CHAPTER, thank you for sharing your inland adventures!

 SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES  
is the heart and soul of the Ocean Posse 

Please share pictures of your adventures, your award entries, your breathtaking sunsets, and picturesque anchorages on our group communications platform for others to enjoy in real time and/or email Maurisa at editor@oceanposse.com to share in the upcoming newsletter.  Maurisa is a sailor among us.  She is part of the Ocean Posse crew and enjoys writing fun and helpful updates to the Ocean Posse.


The Birth of the United States Navy

THE BIRTH OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY:

A Mad Idea that Stuck.

By Mike Descheemaeker of SV WHIRLWIND

George Washington’s secret navy's first ship: the schooner Hannah

Both the Revolutionary events in Massachusetts in the year of 1775 and the need to keep the British Army under siege in Boston led to the early formation of the US Navy.  The British were surrounded by the Continental army in Boston and the people of the colonies wanted a voice and a say in the running of their colony.  At this point the 13 colonies were only rebelling against the tyranny of the parliament and hoped the King would see that colonists were in the right and simply give them representation.  While history has shown that kings do not view their reign as tyrannical, time and time again people hope for more autonomy without a fight.  Many hoped war was not the answer and yet obtaining their goal was otherwise quite complicated.  The colonies were dependent on Britain in many ways and Continental Leadership knew that challenging the Royal Navy on the high seas was, as Samuel Chase of Maryland said, the Maddest Idea; they could be no match.  In spite of the madness of the idea, the congress slowly debated whether or not there was a genuine need for a true American Navy.  The congress was concerned that the creation of a navy would be seen as an act of aggression or a move toward sovereignty a threat to the crown.  While the debate wore on the continental congress gave the commander of the Continental Army, George Washington, authorization to spend money as he saw fit in an emergency.  As it was, Washington saw fit to secretly and, at first, privately funded the arming of two schooners, the Hannah and Warren, for potential military purposes.

A typical 20 gun frigate of the Royal Navy circa 1770s: well funded and well built.

Working with the New England maritime community to ready two ships of merchant service for naval service quickly turned into more than Washington anticipated.  With lack of gunpowder and cannons combined with a New England sense of independence and Sea Lawyer obstinance among the volunteers who manned these ships, it’s amazing they were able to accomplish what they did. Using the small rocky harbors to the north and south of Boston Harbor, Washington's ships were able to rush out and intercept a merchant ship arriving from England or Canada sent to supply the besieged British Army in Boston proper. The British army and loyalist citizens of Boston were slowly whittled down to starvation rations; they began tearing down structures and stealing furniture inside abandoned rebel leader mansions to gather fuel for cooking fires.  Firewood and fresh food was being imported from Maine and Nova Scotia because of the siege. These early schooners of the continental army had limited oversight and often took advantage of their interceptions as opportunities to enrich themselves with the spoils of war thereby making themselves no more than privateers with captain and crews.  In the beginning they captured as many friendly ships as they did enemy ships.  At the time with the lines of independence being still blurred it was difficult to determine what was a legal prize. Many of the core families of the initial rebellion were involved in merchant shipping on the New England coast and into the Caribbean. Needless to say Washington had more than one awkward meeting with a angry rebellion financier questioning why Washington’s secret navy had captured one of their legitimate merchant ships.

After the first two schooners started to see some success in capturing actual military supply vessels and independence seemed the only path forward the congress approved a navy.  Washington quietly let them know what he had been up to with his secret navy.  Some of the challenges the young Navy faced was competing with privateers and there financiers for capable ships, commanders and armament for effective naval combat. It’s rather amusing to see the work orders from the captain of one ship requesting top masts and yards, studding sail spars, and a quiver of sails needed to capture or flee from a well canvased enemy. The simple working sail plan of a New England fishing schooner was not adequate for a military vessel facing the dreaded Royal Navy and its well honed ships and crews.

After a rough and quiet start, the young US Navy had, by wars end, fitted out close to fifty ships and captured two hundred enemy ships some with military munitions bound for the British war effort. With really no chance of going broadside to broadside against the British, snatching a prize lost in the fog or separated from its escort was a common tactic in the early days.   Captain John Paul Jones and others did have success in the North Sea in direct action against the British towards the wars' end. This action gave Jones title to the first American Naval vessel to force an enemy naval vessel to strike her colors.

Captain John Paul Jones captained the first American Naval vessel to force an enemy naval vessel to strike her colors.
Author and his kids at the John Paul Jones statue in Washington, DC

In 1778, France allied with the United states and joined in the fight for independence from Great Britain.  Subsequently, the small but growing US Navy was joined by a large French Naval force.  This alliance made way for a gradual change in direction for the colonies.  Finally, with a fleet of 36 French naval ships, a blockade of Yorktown from the sea, and a combined French and US army Cornwallis was forced to surrender.  This surrender brought a decisive victory for the United States an end to the Revolutionary War.  In 1783, the Paris Peace Treaty was signed with Great Britain.  This treaty recognized the United States as a sovereign nation.

Upon Independence, the fledgling US Navy was quickly regarded by some as not necessary and definitely expensive.  This new nation, however, was ready to get out in the world, cross oceans, and continue trade with other nations.  The Navy took on a new task with the turning of the tide in French - US relations.  Circumstances in France quickly changed with the French Revolution which brought a change in heart amongst the former allies in the American Revolution.  The French Revolutionaries were using public guillotines to chop the heads off aristocrats to make their point and get their way.

Execution of Louis XVI on the Place de Republique 1793, painting from Pierre de Machy's studio. French Revolution, France, 18th century. (Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images)

Washington and Hamilton were appalled by the bloodshed of the French approach to revolution.  Concurrently, Jefferson and Madison looked past the gore and considered themselves loyal allies to French. The US congress stood with the Washington and Hamilton opinion and decided not to uphold the alliance with France after the American Revolution.   The US Congress declared that the new French government with their violent actions was not the government the treaty was originally signed with.  This departure brought the US into Qusai conflict with French Naval vessels and privateers in the Caribbean.  The US Navy quickly became indispensable.  The French preyed on US merchant ships doing trade in the Caribbean with the British.  In 1796-1797 the French captured 316 American merchant vessels with a loss of 12-15 million dollars in goods and vessels. In 1794 congress approved the creation of six heavy frigates to protect American shipping abroad.  Unfortunately the frigates came off the ways slowly and only served in the latter years of this Quasi-War with France...too late to stop a French privateer from snatching up a prize off the coast of New York in May of 1798.
The Frigates United States, Constellation and the famous Constitution were the first three ships off the ways in 1797 with three more to follow in the following years, the frigates President, Congress, and Chesapeake.  These six ships are regarded as the official first ships of the United States modern day navy. Fortunately, for American ship builders having the forests of the new world at their disposal was a great advantage for trying to compete with Old World Naval powers. The American shipbuilders were matching nearly unlimited wood sources with superior craftsmanship blended by naval architects with new visions of speed and strength. Knowing that six ships would be no match for the large navies of Europe these six ships were built heavy for defense and the ability to carry a lot of cannons but with big rigs to maximize speed.

The US Constellation was one of the first official ships built for the US Navy

The USS Constitution which is still in active service took over 60 acres of forest to construct.  Her nickname old Ironsides came from her ribs being so tightly spaced that it’s difficult to place a hand between them. With thick oak planking laid over these ribs cannon balls would just bounce off.  Like many a Navy build, these first naval ships were over budget and late on delivery especially for the beginning of the Quasi-War with France.  However by 1798 the first three frigates were sent to stations centered around commerce hubs in the Caribbean. The frigate captains were given orders not to engage with the French naval ships.  They were to capture the French privateers who patrolled the surrounding waters.  Eventually, the early naval frigates saw action with the French on multiple occasions. By 1800-1801 the Quasi-War was brought to an end through treaties and renewed trade agreements.  The fledgling navy was sent into common service and sent home to sit idle at the dock once more.

Meanwhile, the young nation of the United States was tired of paying ransom to the Barbary Pirates on the northern coast of Africa Tunis, Tripoli and Algiers. For hundreds of years the Barbary Pirates or corsairs were in the habit of raiding mostly Christian villages in Spain and Italy and enslaving those they captured. Their treatment was less than wholesome and most of the captives lived out their lives enslaved. Later on, the pirates preyed on merchant vessels plying the Mediterranean and the Atlantic around the Straits of Gibraltar.  Once captured these vessels would be taken back to the Barbary strongholds, their ship and crew enslaved and held for ransom. Lucky crews were freed from the horrors of enslavement when the ships owners paid up.  Unlucky crews were left to rot. This became so common that the British and other European nations paid a flat rate to the pirates so they would leave their ships alone.  America, being young and poor, couldn’t afford to make the payments so American shipping soon became prey for the Corsair pirates.

Morocco actually sent the yet to be formed United States a trade agreement in 1778 but apparently everybody in power was too busy fighting a war and organizing a government that they failed to acknowledge or respond to this request.  In 1784, acting on behalf of the Sultan of Morocco, US merchant vessel Betsy was captured and used for leverage to bring the US to the bargaining table.  A free trade agreement was struck and all seemed well except the Corsairs were basically a mercenary force that worked for the different Sultans along the Mediterranean. In Algeria things were not going well for the US.  For a decade two US ships and there crews were held captive in horrific conditions until some sort of release was secured.  Many in power in the US didn’t want to continue to pay the tribute money because they figured it would just keep going in the wrong direction which it constantly did. The monetary tribute amounts were constantly increased with added demands like Algiers requesting the United States build them a naval vessel. All of this was occurring in much of the same time period as the Quasi-War with France so as things really started to come to a head in the Mediterranean the young Navy was really looking ready to handle this global dilemma.

In 1800 Captain William Bainbridge on the USS George Washington arrived in the Port of Algiers with tribute money and other gifts for the Dey. After getting the anchor down they were informed that the ship would be used to transport the Dey around the Mediterranean to conduct his business. Now the ship had already sailed into the harbor under the protection or threat of the large coastal batteries served by the Deys troops. Bainbridge felt like he didn’t have much choice so he essentially surrendered the vessel to the Dey's demands.  Back home in the US the nation was not happy about this turn of events. This was the beginning of the end for the US sending tributes to the Sultans.  In fact, President Jefferson, with approval from congress, sent the Navy in force.

In 1803 commodore Preble arrived in the Mediterranean with the Constitution and the rest of his ships. Unfortunately, the new fleet consisted of heavy deep draft vessels which had a difficult time negotiating the shallows and reefs that protected the ports of Northern Africa. In an ambitious action Bainbridge in the USS Philadelphia chasing a Corsair vessel ran hard aground off of Tripoli. Under attack from small gunboats of the Tripolis and unable to refloat the vessel Bainbridge surrendered. Thinking they had flooded the vessel beyond salvage they were horrified to see the USS Philadelphia float in to Tripoli harbor from there new accommodations in the prison. There they sat for almost two years. The Americans knew they needed to recapture or scuttle the Philadelphia before it could be repaired and put back into service against them.  So in February 1804 lieutenant Stephen Decatur with his crew brought a captured Tripoli merchant ketch renamed USS Intrepid into the harbor with the assistance of Sicilian pilot who knew the local waters. They trimmed the rig down to make it look like a local trading vessel and roughed it up to make it look like they had been through a bad storm.  They brought the ketch right along side the Philadelphia under the cover of darkness and attacked the small guard crew.  However, they were unable to cut out the Philadelphia so they set charges and destroyed her at her mooring.

The fleet continued blockades and bombardments of the harbors to some effect but it was a land force of US Marines backing the exiled brother of the ruling Pasha of Tripoli that turned this tide of war. From Alexandria the forces of US marines, led by the former US consul to Tunis, William Eaton, and a mercenary force of the exiled Pashas brother were marched along the coast to capture Derna, Benghazi and eventually Tripoli. With success in Derna the Pasha surrendered to the land force and the constant naval bombing from the USS Constitution.

This, however, did not bring an end to hostilities in the Mediterranean because the British were not happy with the foot hold that the United States was gaining in trade.  Britain used their position to try and squeeze the young nation out of the game.  Determined to defend their trade position, the US sent another force led by Stephen Decatur which defeated the British backed Algerian fleet.  Subsequently, the United States was able to achieve a period of somewhat free trade into the Mediterranean for a time. These actions by the British were fueling the flames of the next war on the horizon in 1812.  And so it was that by this time the United States Navy had proved herself as a valuable and effective tool for the United States to defend, expand, and stand her ground to become a thriving nation.


THE OCEAN POSSE WELCOMES THE ATLANTIC POSSE

THE OCEAN POSSE CROSSES OCEANS

& WELCOMES THE ATLANTIC POSSE

The Ocean Posse crosses oceans.  Beginning with Season 8 in June 2024, the Ocean Posse welcomed the Panama Posse.  And now, beginning on October 1, 2024, the Ocean Posse extends its most jubilant welcome to the Atlantic Posse.  This means all marinas and perks work across Posses: Atlantic Posse perks extend to Ocean Posse perks and Ocean Posse perks extend to the Atlantic.   Zulip will have areas for all members to communicate in an organized manner.  There will continue to be a LineAp discussion group and weekly call for location specific cruising.