Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish Across the Oceans

 Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish

Across the Oceans

People living coastally or on islands are deeply connected to the ocean for their sustenance.  Eating raw fish is common across many cultures around the globe, each with its own unique traditions and methods for preparing and enjoying this delicacy. Here are several different ways raw fish is eaten as a main dish across the Oceans that the Ocean Posse cruises:

1. Ceviche (Latin America)

Peruvian ceviche

Ceviche has it’s roots in the northwestern region of South America that are now
known as Ecuador and Peru.  Overtime the dish has spread throughout Central America with each country, each region, each family adding their own touch of individuality.  Ceviche is the result of fish (often Mahi mahi, snapper, or corvina) and/or other seafood (for example shrimp, conch, or Octopus) being submerged in salt and lime juice.  The chemical process that occurs is similar to fish getting ‘cooked’ in which the flesh turns opaque and gets firm…although the fish is not truly cooked.

The additional ingredients, the presentation, the size, and the accompaniments vary greatly depending on where you are.  For instance, along the Gold Coast in Mexico ceviche is commonly a mix of fish or mixed seafood with tomatoes, onions, jalapenos, and cilantro served on a large platter with a basket overflowing with various large corn disks called tostados.  Further south, in Panama, ceviche is commonly served in small individual servings with diced onions and lots of juice and a small singular packet of crackers.  Further south still to Peru, the birthplace of ceviche, raw fish is marinated in lime juice, as well as thinly sliced onion. The dish is served with sweet potato slices, small portions of toasted corn, and plantain chips.  They are all DELICIOUS ….just different….and sampling ceviche along the route is highly recommended.

2. Poisson Cru (Polynesian and South Pacific Islands)

Poisson Cru

The name poisson cru literally translates to "raw fish" in French.  For many centuries native Polynesians and people of the South Pacific Islands were harvesting reef fish and pelagic fish and coconuts as a mainstay of their diet.  The preparation was once as simple as  pouring fresh squeezed coconut milk over raw fish and has evolved to include lime juice after the Europeans introduced citron (limes).  Poisson Cru has a distinctive flavor and texture that is generally more mild that ceviche. While it is sometimes compared to ceviche due to the use of raw fish and citrus juice, poisson cru has its own unique preparation and cultural significance.  Poisson Cru is often served with or over rice or taro with cucumbers and/or tomatoes.  Seasonal and regional twists include adding fruits like mango or papaya or other vegetables like carrots or avocados.  Salt and Pepper may be added for flavor.

Poisson Cru is made at home, during celebrations, and often served at communal gatherings or feasts.  It is considered a symbol of hospitality and represents a longstanding connection to the sea.  The preparation and sharing of poisson cru are deeply embedded in the social fabric of Polynesian life.

Overall, poisson cru is more mild and creamy while ceviche is more tangy and snappy.  Both are fresh, crunchy, and scrumptious.

3. Poke (Hawaiian Islands)

Hawaiian Poke was once a very simple dish made of locally sources ingredients: fish, salt, and seaweed from the sea, seasoned with roasted tree nuts.

The word 'poke' (like 'okay') was a Hawaiian word that meant 'to cut crosswise into pieces'.  The dish that has taken on the name Poke is one that stems from one of the staple foods of the early Polynesian people of Hawaii.  The early Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands lived off the sea.  It is said they often cut crosswise and salted raw reef fish cutoffs and seasoned this with seaweed and roasted kokui nuts.  Over time, after the arrival of people from the continents to the east and the west, this staple food began to evolve and take on tastes and flavors from both sides of the ocean.  For example in the late 19th century many Japanese workers immigrated to Hawaii as sugar and pineapple plantation laborers.  Instead of using salt and seaweed to season their raw fish they used shoyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil.  They would eat this fish with white rice.  In this way, some say that the Japanese immigrants also introduced the rice base to the modern day Poke.  Westerners are said to have introduces spices, onions, and chili peppers.  Poke of today is a serious fusion of flavor traditions that appeals to the culinary tastes across many cultures.  While the dish has evolved greatly and spread far from Hawaii, Poke is still known as an adaptable delicious Hawaiian dish.  Poke can be savory and sweet, spicy or mild.  The fish is still marinated in a salty medium with seaweed is often served in bowl over rice with an added assortment of fresh, thinly cut colorful vegetables, fruit, and roasted nuts.

4. Pickled Herring (Northern Europe)

Pickled herring has long been a staple food in Northern Europe and people on the Mediterranean Sea

Pickling as a preservation method for fish has been around for over two millennia, and herring, being one of the most abundant fish in European waters, was an ideal candidate for pickling. The process of pickling, which involves immersing fish in a brine or vinegar solution, allowed people to preserve the catch for long periods, particularly in the colder months when fresh fish was scarce.

The earliest records of pickled fish date back to the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks were known to use vinegar and salt to preserve fish, and Roman texts suggest that pickled herring was a common foodstuff. The Romans also had a type of fermented fish sauce called garum, which was made from fish, including herring.  During the medieval period, pickled herring became essential for the European diet, especially in coastal regions and inland areas with limited access to fresh fish. The Hanseatic League, a medieval trade network of merchants in Northern Europe, played a key role in the spread of pickled herring trade, especially from the Netherlands, where herring fishing was a major industry.

Herring fishing and pickling became especially prominent in the Netherlands in the 15th and 16 century during the Dutch Golden Age.  Herring from the North Sea was abundant, and the Dutch perfected the art of preserving it by salting and pickling to export it to cities across Europe.  In the 1400s, Dutch fishermen discovered a method to "cure" herring by packing it in barrels with salt and vinegar, effectively preserving it for long voyages or storage. The Dutch developed the technique of "zout-haring" (salt herring), which involved using the fish's own brine and salt to preserve it.  The "New" Herring: The practice of pickling herring became so widespread that the beginning of each fishing season was marked by the arrival of the new herring, which was considered a delicacy. This was especially true in places like Amsterdam, where herring was not only a common food for the lower classes but also a symbol of prosperity and trade.

Over time, pickled herring became deeply ingrained in the culinary traditions of many Northern European cultures. It was particularly important in the Nordic countries, the Baltic states, and Germany.  In countries like Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, pickled herring (known as sill in Swedish) is a beloved part of the traditional holiday table. It is often served during holidays such as Midsummer, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Swedish pickled herring, or inlagd sill, is often flavored with ingredients like mustard, onions, and dill.  In Germany, herring is often served with onions, apples, and mustard, and in the Netherlands, it is commonly served raw or marinated and eaten with rye bread or on a bun. Dutch herring, also known as "Hollandse Nieuwe," is particularly famous. It is a type of herring that is eaten shortly after being caught, before it has been heavily salted or pickled. It is usually served raw and dipped in onions or eaten straight from the fishmonger's stall.

By the 19th century, with the development of refrigeration and other preservation techniques, the necessity of pickling fish for preservation decreased. However, pickled herring continued to be popular as a flavorful and nostalgic food.  European immigrants, particularly from Scandinavia, Germany, and the Netherlands, brought the tradition of eating pickled herring to America, especially to cities with large immigrant populations like New York. In the U.S., pickled herring became a common dish in Jewish delicatessens and is a part of Eastern European Jewish cuisine (particularly among Ashkenazi Jews), where it is often served as an appetizer with rye bread.  In the 20th century, the canning of pickled herring became widespread, making it more accessible around the world. Canned herring became popular not just as a snack but as a component of many ready-to-eat meals.

Today, pickled herring continues to be enjoyed in many parts of the world, from Scandinavia to Germany, and it remains an important part of traditional meals. Modern variations of pickled herring can be found in many supermarkets and gourmet shops, where it may come in different flavors, including spicy, sweet, or mustard-infused varieties.

Pickled herring has evolved from an essential preservation method to a beloved culinary tradition in many Northern European and Scandinavian cultures. Its history reflects the ingenuity of people in maritime regions, who turned abundant fish into a flavorful and lasting foodstuff. Whether served raw, marinated, or in sauces, pickled herring remains a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, offering a glimpse into the cultural importance of preserving food for long-term enjoyment.

Eating raw fish is a global practice, with each culture putting its unique spin on how the fish is prepared, seasoned, and served. Whether marinated in citrus, salted and dried, or simply sliced fresh, raw fish continues to be an essential and cherished part of culinary traditions worldwide.


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Minamitorishima Island, Japan

Minamitorishima Island, Japan

roughly translates to "Southern Bird Island"

Minamitorishima is located about 1,848 kilometers (1,149 miles) southeast of Tokyo, making it one of Japan's most distant territories.
Minamitorishima, also known as Minami Torishima or Marcus Island, is a remote, uninhabited raised coral atoll in the Pacific Ocean.  It is part of the Ogasawara Islands chain, which belongs to Japan.  This small (less than 1 square mile) low lying island (less than 400 ft above sea level) was once mined heavily for guano, serves as a strategic location for airspace and maritime surveillance and is now the site of major sub sea floor rare-earth metal mining research and possibilities.  Rare-earth metals are crucial in the making of high-tech products such as electric vehicles and batteries, and most of the world has relied on China for almost all of its needs.  After China restricted exports of strategic rare-earth oxides (REO's) in 2009 Japan began to explore its sea floor for deposits.   Among the rare metals found around Minamitorishima Island are cobalt and nickel — both essential for lithium-ion batteries.
Manganese nodules found in the seabed around Minamitorishima
Minamitorishima Island samples held by scientists from the University of Tokyo
Minamitorishima is considered Japan’s easternmost territory and plays a role in Japan's control over its exclusive economic zone (EEZ) in the Pacific Ocean.  The island is off limits to civilians except for Japan Meteorological Agency staff, although reporters, documentary makers, and scientific researchers can sometimes get an entry permit. No commercial boat tours or flights visit the island, and civilians are currently not allowed access to Minamitorishima for tours or sightseeing, due to its use by the JSDF as an observation station.
The Research operation investigating the existence, location, and concentration of rare-earth metals has been focusing their efforts to collect samples from the sub-sea floor from around Minamitorishima island because this atoll makes a great base of operations.  In 2013 a deep sea research vessel obtained seven deep sea mud core samples some 5000m below the sea level that revealed extremely concentrated REO in a mud layer 2-4m beneath the seabed around the island. 
Researchers think that the deposits found are the result of hot plumes from hydrothermal vents that over hundreds of thousands of years have pulled materials out of the seawater and deposited them into the muddy seabed.
An effort began in 2018 to create detailed maps of rare-earth elements distribution.   Researchers have found 16 million tons of REO mineralized sediments within the studied area which some say is equivalent to 75-100 years worth of rare-earth materials underneath Japanese waters — enough to supply to the world on a "semi-infinite basis," according to a study published in Nature Publishing Group's Scientific Reports.  That supply term depends on the demand of course and it remains to be seen what and how human demands for products that utilize these REO's will change in time...especially if there are more suppliers than China.
Japanese Research Vessel Kaityo Maru 2 is supporting the acoustic mapping operation around Minamitorishima Island
The mapping and sampling process requires a wide range of specialists and organizations, cutting edge technology and equipment, and time.  There are marine geologists using new high resolution acoustic profiling technology that creates a narrow acoustic beam that transmits information about the soft seafloor 6000m to 11,000m deep.  The beam is then able to penetrate 200m into the sub-seafloor allowing researchers for the first time to gather sub-seafloor data.  Concurrently, researchers have taken hundreds of deep sea core samples which is very slow and difficult work as well.  One sample taken 5000m deep can take an entire day.  Samples are sent to laboratories in Tokyo for analysis.  Together they are building an understanding of the geologic history of the area like never before and hope that they will be able to discover where the soft sediment with the material from the ocean vents has settled.
Deep sea piston coring device.
Piston with lowers the core sampler. 700 samples have been taken in three years.
In addition to the islands particular geology, Minamitorishima is known to have a unique ecosystem, and though 'uninhabited' by humans, it provides a habitat for various bird species, hence the name, "Southern bird Island". Its isolation and distance from the mainland has allowed it to remain relatively undisturbed by human activity, which is important for preserving its natural environment.  The island is also a significant site for marine life, with surrounding waters providing a rich habitat for marine species. With this in mind, while the researchers have made many findings about the geology of the surrounding seafloor, their efforts are colossal and not without impact.  The drivers believe that results could be worth the effort.  In the long term and in the short term one cannot forget to ask, What are the risks?  Will the risks be outweighed by the rewards?  What are the impacts of this work on the surrounding environment, the local, pelagic, and migratory animals.  Could the repeated core sampling affect the plate tectonics?  Could the acoustic beams disrupt other ocean acoustics?  Have they already?  What could be affected that is not being considered or seen at this time?
As all these questions begin to bubble up it is clear is that Minamitorishima’s isolation, strategic role, and environmental uniqueness make it an intriguing part of Japan’s territorial holdings in the Pacific.  Japan is being strategic and hopefully considering so much more than the potential political and economic value of the extracted minerals for the human species.
It was the possibility of darkness that made the day seem so bright. -Stephen King

By Maurisa Descheemaeker on SV WHIRLWIND

 

Sources: https://www.nature.com/articles/d42473-020-00525-x

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2024/06/22/japan/science-health/tokyo-island-rare-metals-find/

https://www.t-borderislands.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/en/minamitorishima/


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DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

DISCOVERING MAKATEA 🇵🇫 THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND

Outer Fringing Reef of Makatea

The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia.  The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon.  Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide.  Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon.  The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day.  The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small.  On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.

SV WHIRLWIND on anchor in the lagoon of Rangiroa

While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift.  40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea.  This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited.  Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level.  Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level.  While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs.  The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.

Sunrise at Makatea

Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa.  It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt.  We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.

On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor.  The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain.  Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available.  With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef.  We marveled at the scene.  While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea.  WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore.  It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore.  Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring.  (Thank you Captain!).

The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores.  A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region.  A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens.  A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.

Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea.  The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks.   There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.

Makatea Harbor today

It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits.  Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s.  The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s.  Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea.  The mining industry was quickly established.  Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site.  Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island.  According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory.   At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”

Early 1900s after phosphate extraction began large ships would moor offshore awaiting loads of ore
Makatea harbor in the mid 1900's

The phosphate ore was all hand dug and men were paid by the wheelbarrow load
Eventually, rail lines were laid and rail cars were used to transport material to the harbor

And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of  weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind.  During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated.  An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts.  People came and people went.  Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were.  The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart.  Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.

A jungle vine growing up a concrete wall
The extrated phosphate was in the form of dust that sat in these limestone 'holes'

A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment.  The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished.  One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.

While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat.  It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast.  Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination.  Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special.  There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking.  The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.

Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade.  This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018.  The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet.  We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line.  We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim  and deeply refreshing cooldown.   I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.

Looking across the zipline out to the Ocean from a bridge along the Via Ferrata
Walking along the Via Ferrata
Snorkel Masks make exploring the deep, clear water cave even more amazing!

The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea.  His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well.  He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era.   Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit.  I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.

The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018.  Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in.  The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future.  May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island.  So far, it looks good!

Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.

SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND


INFINITY YACHTS BOAT FOR SALE IN MEXICO

INFINITY YACHTS BOAT FOR SALE IN MEXICO

 


PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA

PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA

MV HO’OKIPA is cruising in the Baltic Sea.  They keep record of their voyage and have shared with the Ocean Posse a part of their recent journey from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel Germany with many stops along the way.  Thank you Ho’okipa for this window into cruising in the Baltic Sea: the beauty, the oops'ies, the lessons and the realities along the way.    Below is a screenshot of their track.  To zoom in on their various spots follow this link.

MV HO'OKIPA's track from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel, Germany.
Chuck scans their first anchorage in Soviken.

MV HO’OKIPA writes:

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN TO KIEL, GERMANY

Sunday September 1st, 2024  From Stockholm we headed back out to the archipelago the way we came in and headed to an anchorage, Soviken. It’s 52 nm. It takes us 7 hrs. 10 min at 7.25 knots average speed.  Location: 58 47 .603N 017 51.050E  It’s a secluded anchorage with protection from the no. winds. The chart was confusing, and we almost went into an area thinking that was the anchorage. It was a shallow area and had we kept going it would have been terrible, rocks everywhere. Luckily, our instincts told us to drop anchor where we were in 24 ft.  When in doubt don’t do it.

The next morning cruise forty miles to Harstena Flisjarden. Instead of going down the coast we are going to go across the bay (about 3.5 hours) where Norrkoping is and directly to these islands east of Valdemarsvik. Per usual, as we have come to learn, we must pass through a narrow shallow cut to get to the deeper bay and anchorage.  58 15 .659N 017 09. 491E Stunning place. In the summer, this place will have 50 boats. Thankfully, there are just 3 others now.  It’s a big enough bay that we all have room and privacy. It felt like being on a lake in the Sierras with the pine trees and rock outcrops. We did notice jelly fish surrounding our boat, just like the previous anchorage.  They appear to be ones that do not sting. Of course, with the cold-water temperature I am not going swimming in any case.

The beautiful anchorage in Harstena is usually crowded with about 50 boats.  Ho'okipa was pleased to anchor in the company of a mere 3 other boats.
Marker along the way.
Mjödö, offered us a very protected anchorage after a choppy day underway.  So peaceful in Mjödö.

Choppy today with 2-3 ft swell. Had to find a protected anchorage. We opt for Mjödö around some islands along the mainland. Requires following the buoy system through the shallow waters. 40 nm takes 6 hrs. 34 min. average speed 6.13kts. 57 46.809N 016 41.586E  It’s empty of course as the season is over. But clearly a summer camp area. We normally would spend more time at these anchorages and meander more. However, the season has ended and although the weather has been unusually nice, we must be in Malmö, Sweden Sept 19th where we have an appointment with Swedish Immigration to apply for a temporary resident permit. Plus, we need the transformer work done and the European rep must meet us and do the work before September 28th.

In the morning, we continued south about 40 nm to an anchorage in Tillingeo. It’s near a port and lies off a quaint suburban area. We anchor i20 feet in a small cove.  57 16 .833N 016 29 463E

Depart early to head south but the anchor caught on a buried cable. Had to spin the boat 360 degrees to detach. Was a little unnerving. Could have been a big problem. Of course, had we looked at the chart carefully we would have seen the symbol for a cable running right under where we anchored. Good lesson. That’s what that means. Don’t anchor near a cable as you may hook your anchor around it. Doink!

Heading to Kalmar, an old historic walled town on the coast. It’s 42.8 nm, 6 hours at 7kts. 56 39.614N 016 21.907E  We get a slip for 2 nights (660 SEK. Or $33 a night) alongside the dock at the small marina near the center of old town with its cobblestone streets. It’s a quaint town, and the castle with its moat are walking distance from the marina.

Historic walled town of Kalmar

We learn that the marina in Copenhagen cannot import the transformer and ensure that the VAT is waived. The European rep suggests we have the work done in Germany, where he’s from, and that we will not have to pay the VAT in Germany. On his advice we have the transformer shipped to Kiel, Germany and we will now head there for the installation.

Saturday September 7, 2024, We leave Kalmar. We decide to go all the way to Utklippan, a tiny island off Sweden. About 51nm. Tomorrow, we think we will head to Bornholm Island which is part of Denmark and stay there until the rough weather heading this way passes. Then we will press on to the German coast. Utklippan is just a rock posing as an islet. You can walk around it in minutes except when the tiny harbor is in the way. There is a very narrow walled entrance (100ft wide) to the outer small harbor and then a slit into the inner harbor which is even smaller. Very intimidating. We must tie up along the cement dock which is high. The cleats are big bollards. It’s windy but sheltered. 55 57 .284N 015 42.218E

Weather is moving in so in the morning we make straight for Borlholm Island and the town of Hasle on the west coast. 55 11.211N 014 42.209E  It’s 60.58nm and takes 9 hr. 4 min. at 6.68 kts average speed. This Danish island is in the Baltic Sea southeast of Sweden north of Germany. There is a small marina at Hasle, a fishing town that was once famous for its smoked fish houses. We can pay for the slip using a credit card at the machine by the Kiosk. $62 a night. There are a few other boats and a sauna across from the marina. We can easily walk to town. We stayed 4 nights to wait for a mild weather window to do the overnight passage to Kiel. The island is beautiful countryside with a few small towns. We get the motorcycle down and explore. Tour a small glass blowing factory and artisan studio, dine at a traditional old fish smoke house, visit the main town of Ronne, and walked around its old cobblestone streets, and admire the old Lutheran Church with a stain glass window over the alter featuring a fishing boat.

Ronne, Bornholm
Fehmarn Island Bridge
Near Inlet to Kiel and Kiel Canal

Thursday Sept 12, 2024. The forecast was for 3-foot seas and winds to 14 knots with gusts 18. The problem was swell wind was on our nose. And the swell period was 3-4 seconds. Not great at all. Changed course to get a smoother ride and it was a 2-hour delay. The entire day was like this. I felt like we were not making headway. in the early afternoon, the autopilot went off. “Drive Stopped” error. Not good. While I was steering the boat, C went to trouble shoot and checked all the connections. Nothing. We have Starlink SAT connection so checked online and on a Raymarine Forum a tech said sometimes you can tap on the device with a mallet and get the sensor (?) brushes unstuck. Charles tried it and it worked!!!  Lots of cargo ships, tankers and cruise liners are out. This is a major throughfare. Wind farms dot the coasts too. When it’s dark lights are everywhere from various ships, buoys, lighthouses. Took two-hour shifts at the helm. We had calm seas all night for which we were grateful.

 We reached the start of the passage that takes us between Fehmarn Island and the main coast of Germany. Still not light enough to see but the Flir infrared camera helps, and the chart is spot on. We slow down to let the morning light pick up. Perfect timing. After passing the first set of buoys we could start to see the outlines of the green and red buoys that were not lit. The buoys are only spaced 350 feet apart. No other vessels. Going under bridges is fun. As soon as we got out of the gap the wind and swell picked up. Nice and choppy again but at least it’s not right on the nose. Spend the next couple of hours getting to the outskirts of Kiel and our Marina Rajhe. But first we had to avoid the German military area. I just happened to zoom in on the chart to see what all the dotted lines meant. It’s a danger zone with active military shooting exercises. We had to circle around it instead of a straight shot across the bay to the inlet that leads to the canal and the city of Kiel. Took an extra hour or so. Lots of sailboats and ships coming and going. Marina Rajhe is a mile west of the canal entrance which is a mile west of Kiel. We made it into the marina at 1300.  54 23.124N 010 09.979E

Raising their courtesy flag in Germany
Ho'okipa tied to the dock at Marina Rajhe, Kiel, Germany

MV HO'OKIPA 🇺🇸  Lisa & Chuck - Selene 43'

 

 

 THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES ON THE WATER IN THE BALTIC SEA!!


ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO

ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO

Hurricane Otis devastated and destroyed much of the Port of Acapulco in October 2023. Today the City is still recovering and once again welcoming people by land, air, and sea.

Hurricane Otis was the result of a tropical storm that rapidly intensified off the coast of Acapulco in October 2023.  No one expected it and everyone was caught off-guard.  In the dark of night three 20 foot waves came through the bay and destroyed everything.  In one fell swoop the entire Acapulco Yacht Club was thrown on land.  Four marinas were obliterated.  Boats got swamped and sunk rapidly.  650 boats were destroyed or sunk.  Some people escaped with their lives, others did not.

A longtime friend of the Posse, Vincente, who lived in the bay and managed several mooring buoys experienced a horrific tragedy.  He and his wife, son, and grandson were sleeping aboard their boat the night Otis hit.  His boat was among those quickly destroyed and sunk.  He was the only one aboard who survived.  The city was an absolute mess immediately following the Hurricane.  Power, water, and cell towers were out and it took weeks to discover that Vincente had survived.  Many Posse members pooled donations to help him and he was very grateful.  The memorial for his loved ones is this weekend;

Vincente's family memorial announcement

In the aftermath of Otis's devastation, the Mexican government sent in assistance to help lift the boats out of the bay and get the city out from under the rubble.  It has been a long road and true to many Mexican coastal towns the spirit of recovery has gotten them far and, by the sounds of it, the people of Acapulco are still working to get their Port town back.  We reached out to Vincente to see how he is doing and what he could share for Posse members cruising to Acapulco this season.

Vincente shares:

Buenas noches Capitán envío las respuestas a sus cuestionamientos que me fueron enviados:
A un año del huracan Otis le puedo decir que nos estamos recuperando lentamente en todos los aspectos y confiamos en que muy pronto tendremos el Acapulco de antes del Huracán Otis.
El turismo no a dejado de visitarnos tanto nacional como internacional poco pero siempre tenemos turismo en el Puerto.
La costa actualmente está bien dentro de lo que cabe.
La bahía en este momento puede recibir a todos los visitantes que vienen navegando y tenemos ya listas las bollas de amarre para darles un excelente servicio cuando sean requeridos.
Informo a usted que no fueron recuperados ninguno de los barcos porque el gobierno los retiró como chatarra.
Los amarres en la bahía se siguen gestionando a la hora que sean requeridos.
Informo a usted también que seguimos desembarcando en el mismo lugar de siempre.
Reafirmó a usted que quedó a sus órdenes para cualquier servicio o acciones en las cuales podamos apoyarlos anexo mi tarjeta y quedó a sus órdenes saludos

(TRANSLATION)

Good evening Captain, I am sending the answers to your questions that were sent to me:
A year after Hurricane Otis I can tell you that we are slowly recovering in all aspects and we trust that very soon we will have the Acapulco that we had before Hurricane Otis.
Tourism has not stopped visiting us, both nationally and internationally, but we always have tourism in the Port.
The coast is currently doing well within what is possible.
The bay can currently receive all the visitors who come sailing and we already have the mooring bollards ready to give them an excellent service when they are required.
I inform you that none of the boats were recovered because the government removed them as scrap.
The moorings in the bay are still being managed at the time they are required.
I also inform you that we continue to land in the same place as always.
I reaffirm to you that I remain at your service for any service or actions in which we can support you. I enclose my card and I remain at your service. Regards.

Vincente comes by with a smile to offer assistance to cruisers on his mooring balls

Contact him here >>>

OTIS 2023

The financial toll of the storm is estimated to be between $12 billion and $16 billion, making it one of the most costly tropical cyclones in Mexico's history. The storm devastated the region, destroying over 51,000 homes, damaging more than 250,000 others, and displacing over 34,000 households. Additionally, around 80% of Acapulco’s hotels were affected, severely disrupting the local tourism industry, which is crucial to the region’s economy. Hurricane Otis caused significant damage to vessels, especially in Acapulco. The storm destroyed 480+ public tourist boats, and at least 33 vessels sank in Acapulco Bay. Additionally, some boats were rescued near Playa Manzanillo, and others were found in the bay of Puerto Marqués.


SV GARGOYLE PASSED THROUGH THE CORINTH CANAL IN GREECE

SV GARGOYLE PASSED THROUGH THE CORINTH CANAL IN GREECE

 

Gargoyle and her crew are enjoying the last few weeks of the season cruising with family in Greece. This week we've made the transition west from the Saronic Gulf to the Ionian Sea via the incredible Corinth canal. To make things perfect, our daughter and son-in-law have joined us for a ten day stay before we head towards our winter home, Malta's Manoel Island Yacht Marina. Cheers from warm and sunny Greece!


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