Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish Across the Oceans

 Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish

Across the Oceans

People living coastally or on islands are deeply connected to the ocean for their sustenance.  Eating raw fish is common across many cultures around the globe, each with its own unique traditions and methods for preparing and enjoying this delicacy. Here are several different ways raw fish is eaten as a main dish across the Oceans that the Ocean Posse cruises:

1. Ceviche (Latin America)

Peruvian ceviche

Ceviche has it’s roots in the northwestern region of South America that are now
known as Ecuador and Peru.  Overtime the dish has spread throughout Central America with each country, each region, each family adding their own touch of individuality.  Ceviche is the result of fish (often Mahi mahi, snapper, or corvina) and/or other seafood (for example shrimp, conch, or Octopus) being submerged in salt and lime juice.  The chemical process that occurs is similar to fish getting ‘cooked’ in which the flesh turns opaque and gets firm…although the fish is not truly cooked.

The additional ingredients, the presentation, the size, and the accompaniments vary greatly depending on where you are.  For instance, along the Gold Coast in Mexico ceviche is commonly a mix of fish or mixed seafood with tomatoes, onions, jalapenos, and cilantro served on a large platter with a basket overflowing with various large corn disks called tostados.  Further south, in Panama, ceviche is commonly served in small individual servings with diced onions and lots of juice and a small singular packet of crackers.  Further south still to Peru, the birthplace of ceviche, raw fish is marinated in lime juice, as well as thinly sliced onion. The dish is served with sweet potato slices, small portions of toasted corn, and plantain chips.  They are all DELICIOUS ….just different….and sampling ceviche along the route is highly recommended.

2. Poisson Cru (Polynesian and South Pacific Islands)

Poisson Cru

The name poisson cru literally translates to "raw fish" in French.  For many centuries native Polynesians and people of the South Pacific Islands were harvesting reef fish and pelagic fish and coconuts as a mainstay of their diet.  The preparation was once as simple as  pouring fresh squeezed coconut milk over raw fish and has evolved to include lime juice after the Europeans introduced citron (limes).  Poisson Cru has a distinctive flavor and texture that is generally more mild that ceviche. While it is sometimes compared to ceviche due to the use of raw fish and citrus juice, poisson cru has its own unique preparation and cultural significance.  Poisson Cru is often served with or over rice or taro with cucumbers and/or tomatoes.  Seasonal and regional twists include adding fruits like mango or papaya or other vegetables like carrots or avocados.  Salt and Pepper may be added for flavor.

Poisson Cru is made at home, during celebrations, and often served at communal gatherings or feasts.  It is considered a symbol of hospitality and represents a longstanding connection to the sea.  The preparation and sharing of poisson cru are deeply embedded in the social fabric of Polynesian life.

Overall, poisson cru is more mild and creamy while ceviche is more tangy and snappy.  Both are fresh, crunchy, and scrumptious.

3. Poke (Hawaiian Islands)

Hawaiian Poke was once a very simple dish made of locally sources ingredients: fish, salt, and seaweed from the sea, seasoned with roasted tree nuts.

The word 'poke' (like 'okay') was a Hawaiian word that meant 'to cut crosswise into pieces'.  The dish that has taken on the name Poke is one that stems from one of the staple foods of the early Polynesian people of Hawaii.  The early Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands lived off the sea.  It is said they often cut crosswise and salted raw reef fish cutoffs and seasoned this with seaweed and roasted kokui nuts.  Over time, after the arrival of people from the continents to the east and the west, this staple food began to evolve and take on tastes and flavors from both sides of the ocean.  For example in the late 19th century many Japanese workers immigrated to Hawaii as sugar and pineapple plantation laborers.  Instead of using salt and seaweed to season their raw fish they used shoyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil.  They would eat this fish with white rice.  In this way, some say that the Japanese immigrants also introduced the rice base to the modern day Poke.  Westerners are said to have introduces spices, onions, and chili peppers.  Poke of today is a serious fusion of flavor traditions that appeals to the culinary tastes across many cultures.  While the dish has evolved greatly and spread far from Hawaii, Poke is still known as an adaptable delicious Hawaiian dish.  Poke can be savory and sweet, spicy or mild.  The fish is still marinated in a salty medium with seaweed is often served in bowl over rice with an added assortment of fresh, thinly cut colorful vegetables, fruit, and roasted nuts.

4. Pickled Herring (Northern Europe)

Pickled herring has long been a staple food in Northern Europe and people on the Mediterranean Sea

Pickling as a preservation method for fish has been around for over two millennia, and herring, being one of the most abundant fish in European waters, was an ideal candidate for pickling. The process of pickling, which involves immersing fish in a brine or vinegar solution, allowed people to preserve the catch for long periods, particularly in the colder months when fresh fish was scarce.

The earliest records of pickled fish date back to the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks were known to use vinegar and salt to preserve fish, and Roman texts suggest that pickled herring was a common foodstuff. The Romans also had a type of fermented fish sauce called garum, which was made from fish, including herring.  During the medieval period, pickled herring became essential for the European diet, especially in coastal regions and inland areas with limited access to fresh fish. The Hanseatic League, a medieval trade network of merchants in Northern Europe, played a key role in the spread of pickled herring trade, especially from the Netherlands, where herring fishing was a major industry.

Herring fishing and pickling became especially prominent in the Netherlands in the 15th and 16 century during the Dutch Golden Age.  Herring from the North Sea was abundant, and the Dutch perfected the art of preserving it by salting and pickling to export it to cities across Europe.  In the 1400s, Dutch fishermen discovered a method to "cure" herring by packing it in barrels with salt and vinegar, effectively preserving it for long voyages or storage. The Dutch developed the technique of "zout-haring" (salt herring), which involved using the fish's own brine and salt to preserve it.  The "New" Herring: The practice of pickling herring became so widespread that the beginning of each fishing season was marked by the arrival of the new herring, which was considered a delicacy. This was especially true in places like Amsterdam, where herring was not only a common food for the lower classes but also a symbol of prosperity and trade.

Over time, pickled herring became deeply ingrained in the culinary traditions of many Northern European cultures. It was particularly important in the Nordic countries, the Baltic states, and Germany.  In countries like Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, pickled herring (known as sill in Swedish) is a beloved part of the traditional holiday table. It is often served during holidays such as Midsummer, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Swedish pickled herring, or inlagd sill, is often flavored with ingredients like mustard, onions, and dill.  In Germany, herring is often served with onions, apples, and mustard, and in the Netherlands, it is commonly served raw or marinated and eaten with rye bread or on a bun. Dutch herring, also known as "Hollandse Nieuwe," is particularly famous. It is a type of herring that is eaten shortly after being caught, before it has been heavily salted or pickled. It is usually served raw and dipped in onions or eaten straight from the fishmonger's stall.

By the 19th century, with the development of refrigeration and other preservation techniques, the necessity of pickling fish for preservation decreased. However, pickled herring continued to be popular as a flavorful and nostalgic food.  European immigrants, particularly from Scandinavia, Germany, and the Netherlands, brought the tradition of eating pickled herring to America, especially to cities with large immigrant populations like New York. In the U.S., pickled herring became a common dish in Jewish delicatessens and is a part of Eastern European Jewish cuisine (particularly among Ashkenazi Jews), where it is often served as an appetizer with rye bread.  In the 20th century, the canning of pickled herring became widespread, making it more accessible around the world. Canned herring became popular not just as a snack but as a component of many ready-to-eat meals.

Today, pickled herring continues to be enjoyed in many parts of the world, from Scandinavia to Germany, and it remains an important part of traditional meals. Modern variations of pickled herring can be found in many supermarkets and gourmet shops, where it may come in different flavors, including spicy, sweet, or mustard-infused varieties.

Pickled herring has evolved from an essential preservation method to a beloved culinary tradition in many Northern European and Scandinavian cultures. Its history reflects the ingenuity of people in maritime regions, who turned abundant fish into a flavorful and lasting foodstuff. Whether served raw, marinated, or in sauces, pickled herring remains a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, offering a glimpse into the cultural importance of preserving food for long-term enjoyment.

Eating raw fish is a global practice, with each culture putting its unique spin on how the fish is prepared, seasoned, and served. Whether marinated in citrus, salted and dried, or simply sliced fresh, raw fish continues to be an essential and cherished part of culinary traditions worldwide.


Minamitorishima Island, Japan

Minamitorishima Island, Japan

roughly translates to "Southern Bird Island"

Minamitorishima is located about 1,848 kilometers (1,149 miles) southeast of Tokyo, making it one of Japan's most distant territories.
Minamitorishima, also known as Minami Torishima or Marcus Island, is a remote, uninhabited raised coral atoll in the Pacific Ocean.  It is part of the Ogasawara Islands chain, which belongs to Japan.  This small (less than 1 square mile) low lying island (less than 400 ft above sea level) was once mined heavily for guano, serves as a strategic location for airspace and maritime surveillance and is now the site of major sub sea floor rare-earth metal mining research and possibilities.  Rare-earth metals are crucial in the making of high-tech products such as electric vehicles and batteries, and most of the world has relied on China for almost all of its needs.  After China restricted exports of strategic rare-earth oxides (REO's) in 2009 Japan began to explore its sea floor for deposits.   Among the rare metals found around Minamitorishima Island are cobalt and nickel — both essential for lithium-ion batteries.
Manganese nodules found in the seabed around Minamitorishima
Minamitorishima Island samples held by scientists from the University of Tokyo
Minamitorishima is considered Japan’s easternmost territory and plays a role in Japan's control over its exclusive economic zone (EEZ) in the Pacific Ocean.  The island is off limits to civilians except for Japan Meteorological Agency staff, although reporters, documentary makers, and scientific researchers can sometimes get an entry permit. No commercial boat tours or flights visit the island, and civilians are currently not allowed access to Minamitorishima for tours or sightseeing, due to its use by the JSDF as an observation station.
The Research operation investigating the existence, location, and concentration of rare-earth metals has been focusing their efforts to collect samples from the sub-sea floor from around Minamitorishima island because this atoll makes a great base of operations.  In 2013 a deep sea research vessel obtained seven deep sea mud core samples some 5000m below the sea level that revealed extremely concentrated REO in a mud layer 2-4m beneath the seabed around the island. 
Researchers think that the deposits found are the result of hot plumes from hydrothermal vents that over hundreds of thousands of years have pulled materials out of the seawater and deposited them into the muddy seabed.
An effort began in 2018 to create detailed maps of rare-earth elements distribution.   Researchers have found 16 million tons of REO mineralized sediments within the studied area which some say is equivalent to 75-100 years worth of rare-earth materials underneath Japanese waters — enough to supply to the world on a "semi-infinite basis," according to a study published in Nature Publishing Group's Scientific Reports.  That supply term depends on the demand of course and it remains to be seen what and how human demands for products that utilize these REO's will change in time...especially if there are more suppliers than China.
Japanese Research Vessel Kaityo Maru 2 is supporting the acoustic mapping operation around Minamitorishima Island
The mapping and sampling process requires a wide range of specialists and organizations, cutting edge technology and equipment, and time.  There are marine geologists using new high resolution acoustic profiling technology that creates a narrow acoustic beam that transmits information about the soft seafloor 6000m to 11,000m deep.  The beam is then able to penetrate 200m into the sub-seafloor allowing researchers for the first time to gather sub-seafloor data.  Concurrently, researchers have taken hundreds of deep sea core samples which is very slow and difficult work as well.  One sample taken 5000m deep can take an entire day.  Samples are sent to laboratories in Tokyo for analysis.  Together they are building an understanding of the geologic history of the area like never before and hope that they will be able to discover where the soft sediment with the material from the ocean vents has settled.
Deep sea piston coring device.
Piston with lowers the core sampler. 700 samples have been taken in three years.
In addition to the islands particular geology, Minamitorishima is known to have a unique ecosystem, and though 'uninhabited' by humans, it provides a habitat for various bird species, hence the name, "Southern bird Island". Its isolation and distance from the mainland has allowed it to remain relatively undisturbed by human activity, which is important for preserving its natural environment.  The island is also a significant site for marine life, with surrounding waters providing a rich habitat for marine species. With this in mind, while the researchers have made many findings about the geology of the surrounding seafloor, their efforts are colossal and not without impact.  The drivers believe that results could be worth the effort.  In the long term and in the short term one cannot forget to ask, What are the risks?  Will the risks be outweighed by the rewards?  What are the impacts of this work on the surrounding environment, the local, pelagic, and migratory animals.  Could the repeated core sampling affect the plate tectonics?  Could the acoustic beams disrupt other ocean acoustics?  Have they already?  What could be affected that is not being considered or seen at this time?
As all these questions begin to bubble up it is clear is that Minamitorishima’s isolation, strategic role, and environmental uniqueness make it an intriguing part of Japan’s territorial holdings in the Pacific.  Japan is being strategic and hopefully considering so much more than the potential political and economic value of the extracted minerals for the human species.
It was the possibility of darkness that made the day seem so bright. -Stephen King

By Maurisa Descheemaeker on SV WHIRLWIND

 

Sources: https://www.nature.com/articles/d42473-020-00525-x

https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2024/06/22/japan/science-health/tokyo-island-rare-metals-find/

https://www.t-borderislands.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/en/minamitorishima/


MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS

MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious

Each Manta ray can be identified by their unique markings on their underside.  Photo Credit: SV WANDERLUST

Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world.  Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents.   Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe.  Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.

There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris).  No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales.  The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons.  Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells.  The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'.  Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.

Manta in the pass to Tikihau Atoll, French Polynesia. Photo Credit: Planet Ocean

As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras.  The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy.  Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned.  In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies.  One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned.  It's a win-win!  Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.

Manta rays live up to 50 years.  The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age.  Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!).  Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years.  Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.

The manta ray can be seen in Polynesian art and design

Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world.  In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom.  In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon.   In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune.  Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.

Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways.  Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.).  In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine.   It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.

Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them.  Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them.  However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.

Satellite telemetry (tagging) has been used on dozens of marine species. This map highlights the diversity of species tagged in just one study; the Tagging of Pelagic Predators (TOPP) programme. Figure from Block et al., 2011.

According to Mantatrust.org  :

Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it. 

....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.

Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts.  People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.

If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish.  Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.


SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS

IN THE END,

WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT

Dreaming big, reaching for the stars.

Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific.  They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences.  Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:

I wanted a catamaran that could sail upwind, and for my indiscretions, they let me have one.
Sailing Upwind
The destiny we desire—a burden and a curse. Oscar Wilde said it well: ‘When the gods wish to punish us, they answer our prayers.’ But the one who said it best was my father. After he bought me some fancy wheels, he looked at me and said, ‘Hai voluto la bicicletta? Ora pedala.’ ‘Did you want a bicycle? Now pedal.’
Simple, undeniable truth: when the genie grants a wish, it comes with a no-return policy. Deal with the consequences fool—even if it means struggling uphill, cursing every minute of that ride.
Every sailor knows, sailing upwind is a punishment. The ocean couldn’t care less about Wanderlust’s sleek hulls, her spectacular bow buoyancy, or her shiny new gear fitted at great expense. This is what I asked for: a boat that could slice into the wind, lift its stems, and fight forward. And my wishes were granted.
Upwind, the spray lashes like a whip, bodies braced against the bounce, old bones learning a new rhythm, thrumming with each slap against the steep swell. Trust the boat, we say, when everything’s a question mark. Will she hold? Will we hold together? She groans, fighting to remember she was made for this—steel and resin, no heart, no fear, no feelings. But were we made for this? For moving forward when our fragility says to turn back, or at least be anywhere else?
Graceful, it is not. We asked for upwind, and we got upwind—it came with bruises, salt crusts, deep-set exhaustion, and a queasy stomach. Maybe we should have been more precise with the genie about the amount of upwind.
And in the end, when all the wishing is done and the seas have settled, this is the truth we face and the story we tell.
SV WANDERLUST crossing blue to bluer

SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600

 

THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!


DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

DISCOVERING MAKATEA 🇵🇫 THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND

Outer Fringing Reef of Makatea

The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia.  The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon.  Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide.  Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon.  The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day.  The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small.  On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.

SV WHIRLWIND on anchor in the lagoon of Rangiroa

While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift.  40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea.  This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited.  Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level.  Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level.  While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs.  The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.

Sunrise at Makatea

Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa.  It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt.  We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.

On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor.  The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain.  Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available.  With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef.  We marveled at the scene.  While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea.  WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore.  It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore.  Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring.  (Thank you Captain!).

The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores.  A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region.  A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens.  A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.

Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea.  The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks.   There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.

Makatea Harbor today

It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits.  Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s.  The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s.  Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea.  The mining industry was quickly established.  Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site.  Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island.  According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory.   At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”

Early 1900s after phosphate extraction began large ships would moor offshore awaiting loads of ore
Makatea harbor in the mid 1900's

The phosphate ore was all hand dug and men were paid by the wheelbarrow load
Eventually, rail lines were laid and rail cars were used to transport material to the harbor

And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of  weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind.  During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated.  An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts.  People came and people went.  Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were.  The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart.  Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.

A jungle vine growing up a concrete wall
The extrated phosphate was in the form of dust that sat in these limestone 'holes'

A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment.  The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished.  One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.

While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat.  It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast.  Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination.  Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special.  There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking.  The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.

Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade.  This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018.  The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet.  We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line.  We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim  and deeply refreshing cooldown.   I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.

Looking across the zipline out to the Ocean from a bridge along the Via Ferrata
Walking along the Via Ferrata
Snorkel Masks make exploring the deep, clear water cave even more amazing!

The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea.  His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well.  He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era.   Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit.  I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.

The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018.  Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in.  The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future.  May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island.  So far, it looks good!

Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.

SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'

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PASSAGE REPORT: SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND

SV VIVA SHARES PASSAGE REPORT:

SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND

SV VIVA sailed across the Pacific Ocean earlier in 2024, cruised through French Polynesia, and are continuing west to Fiji before Cyclone season begins in November.  While they are getting closer to their destination, the journey to their destination most recently includes visiting Samoa and sailing onward to Wallis Island.
Pierre and Marie raise the Samoan courtesy flag.
Beach bungalows are called Fale in Samoa.  Fale is the Samoan word for house of any size. Traditionally, a Samoan fale is an oval or circular shape, has a domed, thatched roof held up with wooden poles and has no permanent walls. Roll-down blinds, called pola, surrounded the structure.
Family in Fare on the beach selling coconut products
The Samoan beaches are beautiful.
Marie with local Parish leader
Here SV VIVA shares about their time in Samoa:
Samoa, what a Gem!
Arrived Apia Tue 1 Oct, By 11am we were checked-in!
Samoa, (known until 1997 as Western Samoa), is a country with a population of 207,000 consisting of two main islands Upolu and Savaii.
We spent 6 days driving around on the left side of the road and experiencing Samoa’s rich culture. We crossed to Savaii island (quite the ferry ride) where we spent a night in a beach fale and met cool Australians.  Back on Upolu, we experienced a fire dance show, snorkeled with giant clams, swam at the sea trench, hiked at O Le Pupu National park. Enjoyed seeing Samoa preparing for a major upcoming Commonwealth event (CHOGM) (King Charles is coming!)
On Sunday we decided to experience a Samoan church service, and were invited to their parish afternoon celebration. The experience and people we met were memorable: singing, dancing, eating and our first Kava ceremony! We felt like their special guests for the day.
Unique facts we want to remember about Samoa:
-For cruisers, not much anchorage hopping to be done but lots to see and experience on land.
- Communities are clean, well maintained and well decorated.
- Communities are alive with people, children, animals- dogs, pigs, cows.
- People are friendly, look happy, generous and proud of their environment.
- Schools everywhere, mostly primary
- Churches everywhere, primarily catholic but yet several denominations
- Religion plays a big part in their lives
- Witnessed a traditional Funeral mourning ceremony (thanks Douglas for welcoming us!)
- Witnessed People working on houses, roads, fales - painting, fixing, cleaning- not much sitting around waiting for time to pass
- People do lots with not much - painting rocks and coconut mounds, sculpting painted tree trunk, decorating tires, putting up flags
- No appearance of any danger, crime or corruption, no homeless nor begging
- Did not observe a culture of music playing (vs other Polynesian islands)
- Food tasted good but really fattening- lots of fried stuff, chicken, pork, sausage, curries, chow mein…
Next port - Wallis and Futuna 260 nm away.
SV VIVA just sailed 60 hours from Samoa to the remote island of Wallis Island.
Upon their arrival into the lagoon of Wallis Island SV VIVA shares their passage report from Samoa to Wallis Island:
We’re glad this passage is almost over, 270 nautical miles from Samoa to Wallis island, we had great wind 18-24 kts for 48 hrs so no motoring! But rough sea, 3-4m swells 9sec period which meant we were pinned down to our seats. Difficult to standup, move or do anything… basically pulling g’s for 2 days!
One last hurdle before setting the anchor is going through this small pass to get inside Wallis, we timed it right with the tide slack but…we can’t get in!!! There is a very strong squall hitting us right now and we can’t see ahead of us more than 100 yards, so let’s do the safe thing and wait…
Wallis is a very small island and a French protectorate….we’re already dreaming of baguettes!!  Two weeks to go before we haul out and store Viva in Fiji for the cyclone season.
Marie enjoys a warm beverage on their overnight passage.
At the entrance to the lagoon another screen shows the chart view split with a satellite view of the entrance. Entering the lagoon at slack tide is the safest way in. VIva timed their entrance for slack but had no way to hold off the storm. Instead, they just circled slowly for 30 minutes waiting for squall to pass, in front of Wallis pass.
Redundancy in charts and electronics is important on SV VIVA. Shown here is a split screen with Navionics charts and their radar. Ideally the two display the same contours!
After a rather rocky passage, Pierre is happy to be in the remote and calm lagoon.


POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS

POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS

☎️ Free Weekly live calls on Mondays via dedicated LINE.me group

The Ocean Posse has weekly, live, in-season calls dedicated to five different regions where posse members are cruising:

  1. The Pacific Americas Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  2. The Caribbean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  3. The Atlantic Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  4. The Mediterranean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  5. The South Pacific Route (In process now ending November 4th)
an example of in season Line call schedule

During the Weekly calls members join in to:

  1. Share any emergency or emergency relay needed
  2. update one another on location, any issues they may be having, or fun stuff they are doing
  3. Receive weather report from Captain Dietmar
  4. Questions people have for one another.

This weekly communication is a a little bit like a net and fulfills all the same functions.


SAILING NOTES FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR OCEAN VOYAGERS

Sailing Notes from the South Pacific for Ocean Voyagers

Geologically young and dramatically, steep, mountainous Marquesan islands jut skyward out of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Tikis and coconut palms look out to sea.
The Ocean Posse is working to bring three posses together: the Atlantic posse, the Panama posse and the Pacific Posse so that we will have better overlap to share information and benefits across the oceans that we sail.  Some have crossed oceans that others are considering crossing.  Here, I will share notes from the South Pacific for people considering sailing to the South Pacific, or for those that just want to vicariously enjoy the cerulean blues, coconut palms, island communities spread throughout the South Pacific.
Presently, SV WHILRWND is underway in the Tuamotus, the second of five island groups in French Polynesian that we have visited since making landfall from Panama in May 2024. The Tuamotus, are sometimes referred to as ‘the dangerous islands’ for all the low lying fringing coral reefs boats can and have run aground on which require careful navigation.  So far, with a person on bow watch, the charts on Navionics, and multiple satellite overlays in OPEN CPN navigating the Tuamotus has been very fun.  There is a timing element one must consider when entering and exiting the atolls, between atolls we are sailing in the open ocean with ocean swell instantly, and within the atolls we are sailing in lagoons with little to no waves navigating coral bommies looking for a calm spot in the sand to drop our anchor.
So many different shades of blue in the Tuamotus atoll lagoons.
Slivers of fringing reef encircle blue lagoons studded with coral heads called "bommies"
Over the past two months, We have had the good fortune to see an abundance of coral and undersea life, more blue hues than I knew existed, and a few of the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales that come annually to the oceanic islands of the South Pacific to breed and calf.  According to a cruising marine biologist friend the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales will be turning back towards their summer feeding grounds off Antarctica in the next few weeks. There is a singular raised atoll in the NW part of the Tuamotus called Makatea where, in settled conditions, one can anchor outside the atoll on the leeward side and possibly see whales this time of year.  Looking at the weather with this possibility in mind we saw a sweet weather window that looked perfect for an adventure: two days of downwind sailing from Fakarava to Makatea in time for the wind to die off for three calm days anchored in the lee of the island, followed by wind from the south to carry us north to Tikihau where there is a manta ray feeding station, and on Rangiroa the second larges atoll in the world.  We have friends coming in on October 11th and as all cruisers know this hard stop commitment presents an added element into every sailing schedule.  Guests visiting the Tuamotus fly into Tahiti and then take an inner island flight to the Tuamotus. Interestingly, many atolls have airports: Fakarava and Rangiroa being the two largest atolls have airports that are more frequented than others. So, (Option 1) we could stay in and around Fakarava until our guests come (very relaxing) or (Option 2) we could go on a little atoll tour and make our way to Rangiroa to meet them (an adventure). We decided that the weather window looked good for an adventure and the plan was sound.
Our 'plan' was to sail from Fakarava for two days, spend a few days on the leeward side of Makatea, then sail to Tikihau for a few days and around to Rangiroa to pick up our friends.
Downwind sailing with the mainsail, mizzen, and spinnaker
We weighed anchor in time to catch the high water slack and sail through the exit in the southern pass.  After exiting the atoll, one is in the ocean immediately and we noted a long slow 1m southerly swell. The conditions were great and we set our kite for a smooth downwind sail.  A few hours in our buddies received an email from a French weather service sending out an alert to all mariners of a significant southern swell developing and moving north into the Tuamotus. We pulled up the weather and, sure enough, although the wind was still forecast to be settled in a few days around Makatea the swell was going to be too big to comfortably anchor on the outside of the atoll much less enter through the pass of an atoll.  We decided to reroute to Tikihau and save Makatea for another time.
There is a 'plan' and then there is the reality that unfolds when new information comes to light, conditions change, and the route must change as well.
We arrived outside Tikihau in the night, hove to outside the entrance, and waited for the low slack at first light. Upon arriving in Tikihau the weather forecast changed multiple times over the course of the day. In the southern hemisphere winter has just turned to spring and now this northern hemisphere sailor can say the spring weather down here is as fickle as one might expect in the spring: changing so often it’s hard to hang you hat on much beyond the immediate conditions. There are significant blows coming in and out of the forecast and still a large swell coming with mixed forecasts on how long it will affect this part of the Tuamotus. Based on these changing forecasts and the expected conditions in the passes when the swell arrives we have now determined that today, seems to be the best day in the next ten (when our friends are to arrive) to make our way from Tikihau to Rangiroa, so we are underway once more.
No matter the ocean, the weather calls the shots.  So far, sailing in the South Pacific has been nothing short of a dynamic adventure demanding that we constantly keep an eye on the weather and a sharp lookout over the bow.  While on lookout this morning we saw manta rays entering the Pass into Tihihau and dolphins surfing our bow as we set out into the ocean to Rangiroa...and we still could see a whale.
Sailing to Rangiroa: the second largest atoll in the world.
For cruisers looking to the South Pacific for adventure; crossing the ocean to get here is an epic adventure in and of itself.  Most people set sail for the South Pacific from points west in the late winter/early spring.  Presently, many cruisers are beginning to rub their palms together, eyeing up routes and weather patterns, running through their inventory of parts and spares, making lists, reading about storm tactics and high sea debacles, and/or taking care of a host or pre-departure maintenance or upgrades.  Shaking down our fears can also be a big part of mentally preparing for a ocean voyage.  Some, like my friend, may be wondering, "What were your scariest moments on the passage (to French Polynesia)?"
Taking a panoramic shot aboard SV WHIRLWIND out at sea while rocking and rolling.  Fear can feel like this: exaggerated and out of control.
In jest, my husband and our captain said, "the day we realized we didn't bring enough rum."  That was more sad really, but nothing we can't get over.
More sincerely, he said, "The day the autohelm and went a little wacky and (he) had visions of the rudder breaking loose."  Terrifying!  Indeed, one of our worst nightmares.  That 'wackiness' was rectified at sea with no major drama.  And we installed a back up autohelm before leaving Panama Bay.
In my most sincere and more lengthy response, I shared:  We spent 30 days at sea: they were both utterly glorious and unexpectedly difficult at times. A huge realization for me was that the infamous Coconut Milk Run starts west of French Polynesia….or maybe in French Polynesia…or maybe to the east...it’s the Eden out there somewhere, the Fair Winds and the Following Seas of every sailors dreams.  As we set out to cross the Pacific we actually thought we were on the Coconut Milk Run from Panama to the Marquesas.  So when we got out there and spent far longer in confused seas than we ever imagined could be part of a 'Coconut Milk Run' we joked, desperately at times while tossing chaotically in a confusion of seas and open sky, saying “this is coconut milk!? I imagined something sweet and smooth not a frothy mess" Or, "If this is coconut milk, I’ll stick to beer (or rum)!” Crossing the ocean can easily be romanticized…in my experience it is with the adventure ahead of me or behind me that I can romanticize really well about it.  When I am in it, it is usually....well...a Whirlwind of calm joy, uncertainty, chaos, thrill, or somehwere in between.
In preparation, I tried hard to be realistic, to plan for the worst and hope for the best, to be ready for the voyage and not simply long for the destination, to pack the boat full of provisions and spares, to check everything twice sometime thrice.  While the dream to cross the Pacific was years in the making for us and I had years to consider the magnitude of this voyage, still he scariest moment for me was somewhere SW of the Galapagos when I realized how far offshore we were, how much further we had to go, and that there would be no real rest until we were in French Polynesia.  It was nighttime and I woke out of a sleep to my husband, Mike, and our 13 year old son, Russell, reefing the main in sloppy seas and having a heck of a time.  I hopped up to help and the sky was SO big and SO black, spotted more stars than I had ever seen.  I could not immediately see Mike or Russell but somehow the wavetops were illuminated, so swift and heaving.  I was struck with a desperate feeling knowing there was no turning back, still so far to go, and only us to make that happen.  In that moment reefing the main felt goliath, possibly insurmountable, and I had to have a serious talk with myself!  I had to take the task at hand for just the task at hand, not the hundreds of miles we had come or the thousands of miles to go.  I had to just focus and reef the main.  'Stay calm.  Stay Steady.  We got this,' I reminded myself.  Finally, we prevailed.  For whatever reasons, reefing was more than difficult that night and with some mighty cursing and some steady determination we did it.  And then we just moved right along.  The boat settled nicely due to the reef, mind you the seas did not miraculously settle, but the motion certainly improved.  The boys went back on watch, and I to easily slipped back into bed.  For whatever reason, that was my scariest moment.  Basically, when the breadth of what we had set out to do actually hit me like it never quite had before - we were in the middle of the ocean and I felt like an absolute imbecile for only then realizing what I had gotten myself and my family into?!  I thought I had thought it through but in that moment I did not think I had.  I felt enormously overwhelmed by how easily we could get swallowed up.  I also felt that there was no turning back.  (Now in hindsight I know that is not entirely true, but it was certainly how I felt and continuing west was certainly the best option.)  Still, I felt I was stuck and incomprehensibly vulnerable which was truly scary.  The other side of these completely humbling feelings was how absolutely beautiful the stars, the ocean, and the sky were.  Steering away from the overwhelm of fear I definitely made a point to take comfort in the grandeur and holdfast.  It is wild when terrifying can also be infinitely impressive.  There is no doubt the ocean is mighty!  The colors and the expansiveness are nothing short of awe-inspiring making the trials of the adventures worth it....especially when I am on the other side of that particular part of this adventure and can romanticize all about it.
Romantic and Real: Tuamotu sunset.
Lagoon sailing can be exceptionally pleasant.

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

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ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE

SV VIVA'S ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE

Scootering in the South Pacific Sunshine

SV VIVA is in French Polynesia in the South Pacific.  Their recent report shares a few different ways to explore the islands of Moorea and Tahiti:

We rented a scooter and toured the island of Moorea yesterday and did a 9-mile hike up to Belvedere and back on the 3-cocotier trail a few days ago...found many amazing views. Today, we took the ferry across to Tahiti at 7 am, rented a scooter and toured the whole island with several beautiful stops along the way.  We sprinkled this tour with some provisioning that we could fit in backpacks and boxes on our rented scooter.

Great Views of Mountains.
The home of the scooter
Great views of cerulean water

VIVASweet bike lane!

SV VIVA 🇺🇸 Pierre & Marie - Amel 52'

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Adventurous and Practical!  Thank you for sharing VIVA!


WHEN THE HALYARD SKIES OFFSHORE...WHAT DO YOU DO?

WHEN THE HALYARD SKIES OFFSHORE...WHAT DO YOU DO?

On every passage there are sail changes and shifts that go smoothly or even better than expected...and then there are the surprises.  Some surprises are more or less demanding than others.  Our most recent surprise underway gave Captain Mike the opportunity to go up the mast in the middle of the ocean under clear blue skies over gentle 2 meter seas.

His thought was, "I'd rather see what it's like now under these conditions in case I have to consider going up the mast in anything else."  

Here's what happened:

Last week, we sailed from the Marquesas to the Tuamotus.  Conditions were excellent; we decided to go dead downwind and fly our Main and Jib wing and wing.  We poled out the jib, adjusted our course, set the main, and put a preventer on it.  The boat felt rock solid sliding down waves and sailing at 9-10 knots.

SV WHIRLWIND sailing wing and wing

The wind slacked, we shook out the reef and sailed for maybe 5 more minutes before we heard a "floosh" sound and SURPRISE our mainsail lay a limp pile on the boom.

One moment we are sailing 10.6knots...the next we lost over half our sail area and over half our speed.

After minimal discussion, Mike went up the mast to retrieve the halyard.  He used his ascenders on one of our spinnaker halyards and we backed it up with our second headsail halyard.  At the second spreaders we swapped and he was raised the rest of the way on the headsail halyard and the spinnaker halyard was his backup.  Now with all these halyards, where is the backup main halyard?  THAT and a backup mizzen halyard are now on our list.  Had we had a backup main halyard we could have waited to ascend the mast on anchor instead of underway.  Hindsight is indeed 20:20!

NOTE: While the hull was rocking in 2 meter seas, the top of the mast was swaying maybe 20' or more from side to side.  Good thing he loves a wild ride because at the top he had to hang on with all his might.

Once down with the skied halyard, we found that the shackle had opened, the main twisted out, and bent the shackle arms open.  We fixed that, reattached the halyard to the sail, raised the main.

Mike's Take-away:

"It was about what I expected.  The hardest thing was staying on the mast.  I would definitely not want to go up in anything more than that without more in place to make it easier...like maybe some mast steps or a better climbing set-up."

SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajuela 48

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THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES UNDERWAY

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