Legend and Inspiration Found in the Boatyard
Legend and Inspiration Found
in the Boatyard
Raitea, French Polynesia
By Mike Descheemaeker of SV WHIRLWIND
A lot has changed since yachtsmen and women or personages de yachtie set out to sail the globe in the 1960s. Back then boats were built heavier and running rigging did not always involve winches to facilitate the hauling. Additionally, there were a lot more classic boats still active at that time which meant blocks and tackle, natural fiber lines and sails, full keels, belaying pins and sextants for offshore navigation.
Fast forward to 2024 and we are able to sail the globe more easily with a plethora of go-gadgets and fingle fangits that have made navigating and living onboard more accessible to a broad range of people. Modern yachts are equipped with lithium battery banks, mppt charge controllers, gps, chart plotters, ais transponders and receivers, blue tooth this and blue tooth. While rely on many of these new technologies aboard, I often question how safe it is to depend on them entirely. Furthermore, I also have a passion for classic sailing traditions which compels me to keep an eye on the older ways of doing things because when the gadgets throw a fit and need a good sorting out we need to have a solid backup plan. I practice with the sextant to be able to closely fix our position wherever we are. I love to read about famous sailors of old and how they navigated the high seas. I have long taken inspiration from the use of time tested techniques to the requisite resourcefulness of many sailors before me which is why I got a excited when I saw Bernard Moitessier's last boat, Tamata, at the boatyard recently.
For the last two and a half weeks SV WHIRLWIND has been on the hard at Chantier Naval de Iles Sous le Vent, or CNI, or Leeward Islands Boatyard in Raiatea, French Polynesia doing, among other things, a bottom job. Everyday, there were roosters next door to thank for sounding the alarm at first light to snap to and work the day away. ...And everyday there was SV TAMATA to reminding me of the classic resourcefulness and the spirit of adventure that makes for a truly self sufficient sailor and has inspired me for many years.
One of the first things I saw after the telltale red steel hull were cable clamps on the eyes of the standing rigging: Mechanical fittings, yes indeed, but not yachtsmen fittings. These cable clamps are industrial or agricultural hardware readily available right here in town beside the beer and produce at the magasins (french for 'general store'). Resourceful, practical, locally available, and affordable. Now, I am not suggesting that we replace our fancy yachtsmen rigs with farm hardware, or that cable clamps be recognized as a marine rigging hardware, but I take note that people have gone far in crazy conditions with this type of rigging and made themselves legends in the process. The beauty is in its simplicity and ability to be purchased locally which is something we seem to be able to lose sight of all too easily as modern sailors. With improved shipping times, costs, and import agents readily available to bring in almost anything, anywhere for a fee...self reliance seems to be slipping away. And yet, looking at TAMATA I am reminded of a truly self-reliant sailor and his boat before me.
Moitessier's story is held in awe by all sailors I have raced with. Along the racecourse we often make jokes about going around again because in the first of its kind 1968 nonstop Golden Globe circumnavigation race he made the remarkable decision to bypass the finish line and simply continue sailing nearly 2/3 of the way around again before stopping!?
"I continue without stopovers towards the Pacific islands, because I am happy at sea and perhaps also to save my soul."
It is not only his sailing that has given him legend status in my eyes. He is also known as a minimalist, a sailing mystic, and a pacifist/environmentalist even though he spent time in the French navy during the Indo-Chinese war in Vietnam. His biography, Tamata and the Alliance, tells the tale of a man torn between family, country, and friends in the depths of war. It goes on thru his whole life after leaving Indochina on a leaky Marie-Thérèse in 1952 and crossing the Indian Ocean during monsoon season. This voyage unfortunately came to a abrupt halt on a reef near Mauritius and loss of his boat. He got a job on a freighter and headed back to France to start over. He worked at a medical supply company and wrote his first book (Vagabond des Mers du Sud) about his sailing journeys. With the proceeds from this book he and his wife built a famous ketch, Joshua, named after Slocum. They sailed Joshua from France into the South Pacific hoping to circumnavigate the globe. With time and money running out they turned back east around Cape Horn towards France. Sailing non stop from Tahiti back to France they logged the longest non stop yachting record at that time. The legendary Golden Globe Race during which he continued around the world another 2/3 lap brought him back in Tahiti. Here he became part of a group of locals and sailors resisting atomic tests in the Tuamotus. After battling to windward from the Societies a group of yachts and their crews placed themselves and their boats in the target area to try and halt the French bomb testing. A disruption occurred but a halt was not achieved. Moittesier also tried to minimize development along the Papeete waterfront.
It has been over 50 years since the Golden Globe race brought competitive non-stop solo circumnavigation into focus. It has been over 50 years since Robert Knox Johnson won the race after sailing 312 days nonstop and Bernard Moitessier dodged the finishline to keep on sailing. New races are underway testing new sailors, new vessels, and new technologies. Currently, the Vendee Globe race is underway from Brittany around the southern ocean and back to France. With amazingly modern foiling mono hulls matched with Uber modern electronics, oh so sweet sails and furlers solo sailors are blasting thru the ocean at speeds well over 20 kts for days and weeks on end doing the rounding in 80 or 90 days not 312. After starting in the early morning hours from Vendee after experiencing the massive crowds cheering each sailor as they get underway and head for the start line the sailors say 'adieu' and take off on there very own trip. The brave sailors of the Vendee Globe race are right now pushing themselves and their boats to the limit seeking glory on the main stage but more importantly something inside themselves separate from the podium or press.
What is that something? Something that pushes them. Something that inspires them. Something that humbles them. Something that give them the chance to prevail. Something that gives them a chance to connect with the legendary sailors, adventurers, and explorers that came before them and the ocean all around them. Whether part of a race or not, it takes a leap of faith to believe in yourself, your vessel, and your crew, a whole lot of courage, and a little bit of crazy to hop across an ocean, to watch the land slip below the horizon and not come up ahead for many days. And it takes self reliance to rock on anchor in paradise, to chase our dreams, to push our limits. While so much has changed some things at the core really just have not.
Side Note: I have to say that hauling at CNI was an incredibly pleasant boat yard experience. As in many places in French Polynesia there are free range fowl and they are a crack of dawn wakening force. The rooster alarm clock system is top notch and I’m rarely asleep after 0530 which is great because nothing happens on the bottom of my boat from the rack. From the topsides on the stands I have both mountain and reef surf sunset views that are incredible! There is a Mediterranean food truck in walking distance that dishes up the most incredible gyros this side of Gibraltar! Taputu, Punuarii, Ioane, Jacques and Nathalie went beyond and above to make my time on the hard prosperous for Whirlwind. Having a bunch of French sailors around really raises the bar on standards of workmanship especially in the sailing department. Couple that with the traditional boat building skills and general care of the local folks being honed into modern materials and techniques and you have a very solid platform for taking care of your boat. It’s amazing how many boat fabrication operations there are scattered around the area. CNI uses a hydraulic trailer which always gives me a bit of pause but, even with a 6.7’ draft, I had no issues and never felt concerned. Their jack stands and blocking materials are first class. With a huge array of Lagoons and Outremers in storage or being worked on the front yard looks like a showroom for French catamaran. There is a huge knowledge base for these types of boats here. If you need to haul out and store, get work done, or diy I would not hesitate to give CNI a shout.
contact@cnislv.com
SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’
ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND PART 1
ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND
PART 1: ISLA TABOGA
Cruisers visiting Panama find adventures on land and out on the water. Over the years Posse members have collectively seen so much of what the country has to offer. There are so many great adventures to chose from. A quick list includes: Isla Taboga, the mountain towns of Boquette and El Valle, the Canal Museum in Casco Viejo, the sloth sanctuary in the Gamboa Reserve, cruising the Coiba group, cruising the Perlas Islands, walking up Ancon hill overlooking Panama City, touring the Miraflores Lochs....and many many more. Part 1 of ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND will explore the interesting history and adventure opportunities at Isla Taboga, Panama.
Rich in historical significance and boasting a relaxed getaway charm, Isla Taboga is an excellent place to visit near Panama City. The island is so close to the city that there are multiple daily 30 minute ferries that bring people to and from the island for $17 round trip. People visit to enjoy the beach, restaurants, hotels, multiple hiking trails, and the history.
Isla Taboga was discovered in 1513 by the Spanish explorer Vasco Nunez de Balboa. Many subsequent explorers who crossed the Atlantic from Seville, Spain would disembark in what is now Portobello on the Caribbean coast of Panama, cross the isthmus of Panama on foot or by horseback until they reached Panama City. They would then board canoes to the galleons anchored off Taboga. Deep waters with good holding surround the island and made it an excellent place for large vessels to find safe harbor from which to explore and conquer new lands near and far.
Like the ships of old the same anchorage is used today by modern transporters awaiting passage through the Panama Canal.
Going back 500 years again: By 1524 Father Hernando de Luque founded a church in the center of town and christened the town San Pedro. The Church, while noted for being one of the oldest churches in the Western Hemisphere, is still standing and well cared for.
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In the late 1500’s the island was renamed Taboga. “Aboga” means “abundant fish” in the indigenous language of Taboga’s early inhabitants. In the 1500’s many of Taboga’s inhabitants on record were slaves from Venezuela and Nicaragua. The first Catholic saint of the Americas is said to have been born on the Island. There is a cross in her honor on a hilltop with a beautiful view. Today many people think of Taboga as the ”Island of Flowers” for all the flowers cascading over walls (from the most well maintained to the ancient, crumbling ones) and growing in the jungle. The island is 12 square km; town itself, like many on the nearby islands, is quite densely packed and surrounded by wild jungle.
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Today, one can travel along all the residential footpaths or in golf carts on the narrow streets in an afternoon and could spend days and days meandering through the jungle in search of treasure, wildlife, or relics of the past. |
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Treasure: Early prosperity turned Taboga into a target for piracy. In the 1600’s pirates became a formidable force in the area and Taboga was no stranger to their presence and pillaging. Infamous Pirate Henry Morgan among others is said to have sacked the island and used it as a base while attempting to sack Panama City and other nearby islands. Legend has it that there are ashes of pirates inside the walls of the church and treasures buried on the island. One can walk to a monument called Los Tres Cruzes to see the three graves of pirates that attempted to disturb the peace on Taboga. They lost their lives in the fight and have remained as a symbol to all who visit. Taboga is not to be sacked ever again. Wildlife: Taboga is a volcanic Island that rises above the sea with a dense and healthy tropical forest. While hiking through the forest we were treated to many (74) poison dart frog sightings, the smell of flowers, the sound of rain paddling the canopy overhead, the refreshing cool of mist hanging in the air slowly dripping down to the dark brown forest floor. On the highest peak we enjoyed being at eye level with the largest and smallest of birds, from the black headed vultures to bright green teeny-tiny hummingbirds. Relics of the past: In the 1840’s the Pacific Mail and Steamship Company set up a shipping company on Taboga thinking they would move mail and produce throughout the region. They ended up moving gold and gold diggers to and from California during the Gold Rush. There are remnants of their shipyard operation on Isla Morro which is connected to Taboga by a sand spit. In 1885 a medical center was built on the island while the French were making their attempt at the Panama Canal construction. Many workers would take ill and go to Tabogo for care and quarantine. While convalescing on Taboga, French painter Paul Gauguin, painted a scene of the bay that is appreciated to this day. Additionally, the US military build a base on the island during WWII. A bunker was built on the highest point with a 360 degree view that today offers a welcome breeze and incredible views of Taboga Bay, Panama City, the perlas Islands, and ships awaiting Canal transit. |
