BARRA DE NAVIDAD HISTORY
HISTORY OF BARRA DE NAVIDAD
The village of Barra de Navidad has been known by many names over the years. Originally it was known by the names of Puerto Santo, Puerto de Cihuatlán, Puerto de Juan Gallego, Puerto de la Purificación, Puerto de Xalisco, and Puerto de la Natividad. It was a Viceroy from Spain who named it Puerto de la Navidad because Spanish explorers made landfall in this port on a Christmas day. Captain Juan Fernández de Híjar —founder of Villa Purificación, found Puerto de la Navidad around the year 1535, “in a time of great need,” as he himself said. In time, a village and many ships were built on the shores of this Port. The village was built on a sandbar and the name was later changed to Barra de la Navidad for the bar of sand she sits on. The ships were built to support Spanish expeditions further west.
60 years ago, In 1964 the governments and people of Mexico and the Philippines celebrated the “Year of the Mexican-Filipino Friendship”. This celebration commemorated the joint agreement reached by Presidents López Mateos and Macapagal four centuries after a historic nautical expedition left from the Pacific Coast of Mexico and went to the Philippine Islands in search of gold. This nautical expedition fleet set forth by King Phillips II was made of 5 ships and about 350 men. All of Western Mexico had to be mobilized to support the undertaking of this expedition. Roads were built to bring ship building supplies from as far away as what is now Guadalajara. To this day, the main road between Guadalajara and Barra is known as Philippine Way. They left in the early morning of November 21, 1564 from what came to be known as Barra de la Navidad. The Spanish-Mexican expedition set out, under the command of the governor Miguel López de Legazpi and the Augustinian friar Andrés de Urdaneta. * The expedition crossed the Pacific in 93 days and made their first landfall in Isla de los Ladrones, which they identify by the type of sails on their boats and canoes that they saw. This island we now know of as Guam. From there they set sail for the islands now known as the Philippines.Legazpi did not tell the crew their final destination when they set sail and when they arrived in the Philippines he stayed. He put is 17 year old grandson at the helm to get the expedition fleet back to Mexico. This was return trip was both arduous and triumphant as supposedly no one had ever gone back to Mexico up until this point.
*Many historians have spent years pouring over historic documents to determine the exact location from which the expedition set sail from Mexico. Some have contended that the further south from Barra de Navidad perhaps in Manzanillo or further still off the State of Colima. However more have determined that there is not the slightest doubt that the expedition of López de Legazpi and Urdaneta to the Philippine Islands left from Puerto de la Navidad which certainly adds to the significant history of Barra de Navidad.
Just as Barra de Navidad was the jumping off point for many early sailing expeditions, Barra de Navidad is also home to the Ocean Posse Annual Kick-off Event. Posse events, seminars and gatherings occur on a small island across the lagoon from the town of Barra de Nadivad on Isla de la Navidad. Many sailors have and continue to set sail from this port for the adventure of their lives.
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The history of Barra de Navidad, located on the western coast of Mexico in the state of Jalisco, can be traced back to its key role in maritime activities during the 16th and 17th centuries, particularly in connection to Spanish expeditions across the Pacific. Although it’s not directly a part of Spanish territory, its history is deeply intertwined with Spanish colonization and maritime exploration during that period.
Origins of Barra de Navidad
The town's name, "Barra de Navidad," is derived from the fact that it was first recorded by the Spanish explorer Antonio de Mendoza on Christmas Day (Navidad) in 1540 during one of his expeditions. Its name—“Barra” referring to the sandbar and “Navidad” meaning Christmas—pays homage to the holiday on which it was discovered.
In the following years, Barra de Navidad became significant as a shipbuilding center and as a departure point for many expeditions across the Pacific, most notably the expedition of Miguel López de Legazpi and Andrés de Urdaneta in 1564, which successfully led to the Spanish colonization of the Philippines.
Importance in the Spanish Empire (1600–1700s)
During the 1600s, Barra de Navidad was vital in Spain’s Pacific exploration. Spanish galleons would set sail from Mexico's western coast, particularly from this area, carrying goods and supplies for expeditions to the Philippines and other parts of Asia.
However, as larger ports like Acapulco grew more prominent for trans-Pacific trade and shipbuilding, Barra de Navidad's significance as a major port diminished, especially after the Manila Galleon trade was fully established between Acapulco and Manila. Still, throughout the 17th century, the town remained important to Spanish maritime activities and was used as a stopover for vessels moving along Mexico’s Pacific coast.
Decline and Local Development
By the late 1600s and into the 18th century, Barra de Navidad transitioned from being a major player in trans-Pacific expeditions to a more localized port serving regional trade. The town and its surroundings continued to develop as a fishing village and as a harbor that supported local economies.
The town’s fortifications and shipyards slowly declined, and over time, it became less of a hub for Spanish colonial ambitions and more of a peaceful settlement.
Modern History
By the 19th and 20th centuries, Barra de Navidad had transformed into a quaint fishing village with its early significance as a Spanish port largely forgotten. It wasn’t until the latter half of the 20th century that the town became more popular as a tourist destination, known for its beaches, fishing, and tranquil atmosphere. The historical remnants of its Spanish colonial past, though not as visible as in other Mexican port towns, still linger in the area's name and its early connections to significant maritime history.
If you're looking for a more detailed investigation into archival records or reports related to the Spanish influence on this town, this would involve diving into specific colonial maritime documents that reference the town's use as a port, such as logs from early expeditions or shipbuilding records from the 16th and 17th centuries.
The Spanish archives contain an extensive collection of documents, manuscripts, and maps related to Spain's exploration, colonization, and administration of its overseas territories, including places like Barra de Navidad during the colonial period. Here's a breakdown of some of the key archives and what you could expect to find in relation to Barra de Navidad and Spanish maritime history:
1. Archivo General de Indias (AGI) – Seville, Spain
The Archivo General de Indias holds the most comprehensive collection of documents related to Spain’s colonial administration in the Americas and the Philippines. These records are essential for studying the maritime and colonial history of places like Barra de Navidad.
- Shipbuilding records: Information on shipyards in New Spain (Mexico) and the construction of galleons used for expeditions, including those that departed from Barra de Navidad.
- Expedition logs: Detailed records of Spanish expeditions from ports on the Pacific coast of Mexico to the Philippines, most notably the Legazpi-Urdaneta expedition in 1564. These logs may contain references to Barra de Navidad as a launch point.
- Trade and navigation records: Documentation of the Manila Galleon trade route, which would have indirectly affected Barra de Navidad, including port stopovers, cargo manifests, and maritime routes used during the 16th to 18th centuries.
- Royal correspondence: Communications between Spanish officials in New Spain and the Spanish Crown regarding exploration and trade expeditions, including requests for provisions, supplies, or ship repairs in ports like Barra de Navidad.
2. Archivo General de la Marina Álvaro de Bazán – Viso del Marqués, Spain
This archive focuses on Spain’s naval history and could contain:
- Maritime maps and charts: Cartographic documents showing Pacific trade routes and coastal settlements, including Barra de Navidad, during the height of the Manila Galleon trade.
- Naval dispatches and orders: Military and administrative orders concerning the defense of ports, the construction of ships, and the deployment of naval forces from western Mexico.
3. Archivo Histórico Nacional (AHN) – Madrid, Spain
The Archivo Histórico Nacional contains a vast collection of historical documents related to Spain's governance and colonial activities, including:
- Colonial administration documents: Records from Spanish officials in New Spain who may have referenced activities in Barra de Navidad in their reports on shipbuilding, defense, and trade.
- Missionary reports: Accounts from missionaries traveling through coastal areas of Mexico, including possible references to religious activity or conversions in Barra de Navidad and surrounding regions.
4. Real Academia de la Historia – Madrid, Spain
This institution maintains records on Spanish exploration and colonial history, including:
- Expedition narratives: Historical accounts written by explorers, missionaries, or naval officers about their journeys to and from Spanish colonies, which may mention Barra de Navidad during the 16th and 17th centuries.
- Diaries and letters: Personal writings from naval officers, captains, or explorers who may have stopped in Barra de Navidad during trans-Pacific voyages.
5. Biblioteca Nacional de España (BNE) – Madrid, Spain
The National Library of Spain holds manuscripts and rare books related to Spanish history, including:
- Historical books on the conquest and colonization of New Spain: Many early Spanish chroniclers wrote about the ports and towns on Mexico's Pacific coast, including Barra de Navidad. These writings might provide context on the town’s importance during colonial times.
- Illustrated manuscripts and maps: Early drawings and maps showing Spanish settlements, trade routes, and naval infrastructure in Mexico, which could include references to Barra de Navidad.
Potential Documents in the Spanish Archives Related to Barra de Navidad
- 16th-17th-century maritime logs: These may detail departures from Barra de Navidad, noting its role in major expeditions.
- Correspondence between the Spanish Crown and colonial governors: Information about shipbuilding activities or the defense of the Pacific coast, possibly mentioning Barra de Navidad.
- Maps of the western Mexican coast: Showing Barra de Navidad in relation to other important maritime hubs in New Spain.
- Royal decrees and orders: Issued to support naval expeditions from Mexican ports, including instructions on supplies, repairs, and ship construction.
- Trade records: Mentioning the role of Barra de Navidad as a provisioning stop for ships headed across the Pacific to the Philippines.
Researching These Archives
Access to the documents within these archives typically requires specialized knowledge of historical research, as many of the records are written in early modern Spanish. However, these archives are actively digitizing materials, and many records can now be accessed online or through special research requests.
The Archivo General de Indias and other archives may also offer curated collections or exhibit records related to Spanish maritime exploration, which could contain references to Barra de Navidad’s role in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest: Hazards and Resources
Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest:
Hazards and Resources
By Rob and Debra Murray from SV AVANT as previously published in Currents Magazine
About the Hazards
As you set out on your sail to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest, there are numerous hazards you will encounter. For most, the only defense is a good watch.
Fishing Boats
Most vessels inshore are commercial fishing boats, and many do not use AIS, so other fishermen don’t know where they are fishing. At night, they usually light up like stadiums hosting a World Cup game and are easy to spot. They tend to congregate on offshore banks or directly offshore from ports on the coast. Some fishermen have begun using AIS beacons on fishing gear, which is a bonus.
Debris
Floating debris, especially logs, can be an issue, particularly during or immediately following heavy rains or large tides, and especially off of larger rivers or inlets.
Crab Pots
Crab pots are endemic. While there has been an effort to create a crab pot free zone down the coast, its observance is marginal and equipment drifts into the the lanes anyways. The consortium that manages the lanes hasn’t met to update the agreement since 2017. Note that in areas subject to strong current, commercial crabbers will generally use two buoys, one to hold the line up and a second on a further 10 feet or so of line that will still be visible and retrievable, even when the first buoy has been pulled under by the current. It’s easier to tangle a buoy in your prop if the current is slack and both buoys are lying idle on the surface.
Bars
Of course, everyone worries about the dreaded ‘bar crossings’ that may be encountered. After all, they do call the Columbia Bar the ‘Graveyard of the Pacific’, right? But if you’re crossing at a slack or flood in weather that isn’t horrible, none of the bar crossings are difficult. In Avant’s passage down the coast, we entered Astoria (the aforementioned ‘graveyard of the Pacific’), Coos Bay and Humboldt Bay/Eureka (widely considered the second worst bar crossing), and had no trouble at all. Our timing had us arriving at each bar on or near slack water, with a slight edge to the flood tide. Many mariners recommend using the last of the flood tide as the optimum time for a bar crossing, when the water is deepest. Waves at each entrance were under two feet, and the period was long, as predicted by the forecasts we sailed under. Charting was universally excellent.
Each harbour with a bar has a coast guard station that can offer advice, an up-to-the-minute bar report, and will even send out a cutter or other boat to guide you in if conditions warrant (we availed ourselves of this at Coos Bay when visibility dropped to under 200’). If you get caught out by a closed bar, you just have to gut it out until the bar reopens, but with modern weather forecasts and a modicum of planning,
this is highly unlikely. (Note that the coast guard definition of a ‘small craft’ in bar closing advisories is a vessel under 65’ in length.)
Available Resources
The following resources can make this specific passage more pleasant and perhaps less challenging:
Weather Information
No doubt you have attended courses, read books, downloaded software, studied weather patterns, learned how to download a variety of GRIBs, receive weather faxes, decode 500mb charts, toss chicken bones and generally worked really hard to prepare for cruising by becoming your own expert weather forecaster. Well, on this trip, those skills can be used for entertainment value or simply allowed to rest. (Don’t worry, you will use those skills south of the USA/Mexico border).
The NOAA forecasters are as good as it gets, and there are dedicated teams in each of Washington, Oregon and Northern California working around the clock to deliver the most accurate weather forecast possible. These forecasts are available via VHF on the usual WX channels to a considerable range offshore (usually at least 50 miles, often 100+). The forecast zones extend to 250 miles offshore in discrete steps, and the forecast zones are quite small. In addition to the forecast, each weather office provides a ‘discussion’, which underscores the reasons for the forecast offered, how the models informed (or did not inform) the forecasts, what’s likely to follow the forecast period, and any other juicy tidbits the forecaster(s) think might be interesting. You can find the discussion by going to the forecasting office’s webpage and looking for the ‘discussion’ button.
If you want to ‘play along’ with the forecaster, you can download the GRIBs (GFS and NDFD editions) and see if you get the same conclusions.
Live and near live weather observations are also available from the national weather service by finding the ‘observations’ button on the left side of the forecast page. These vary in frequency from every few hours to live, depending on location and observation station type. There are dozens of these between Neah Bay and San Francisco.
Enjoy the weather forecasts. They end at the Mexico USA border and it becomes far more basic there.
Wave Patterns
Waves offshore contribute substantially to the (dis)comfort the crew experience on the passage. Aboard Avant, we have found waves change character at depths of about 60m/200’. When the depths we sail in are under 60m, the waves seem to have a different character, a more insistent vertical component, than they do in greater depths. We always aim to be in depths greater than 60m/200’ whenever possible. When closing the coast, expect waves to ‘feel’ stronger, even if they are not visibly any bigger. Also when closing the coast, watch for secondary wave trains from reflections off shorelines where the shores are steep to, or a change in wave direction where a wave train may wrap a point or headland. And there are also outliers such as this one.
Generally, wave height has very little to do with discomfort aboard; it is the ratio of wave height to period that creates difficulty. When waves are ‘square’ (wave height in feet = wave period in seconds), no one will have any fun aboard, whether the waves are 3’ or 8’ high. We choose not to sail in square waves. When the period extends to 1.5x the wave height, conditions become much more tolerable. When the period is 2x or greater wave height, the gentle rise and fall is barely noticeable after a while.
When traveling with the wave train, the apparent period will be longer, and when traveling against the wave train the apparent period will be shorter. Take this into account when evaluating wave predictions.
Guidebooks
The NOAA Coast Pilot 7 is a free download and covers the coast from Neah Bay to the Mexican border. You will want to read chapter three, and use chapters seven to thirteen in reverse order as you transit south. This volume, over 700 pages, is a comprehensive mariners guide to the coast, its character, and its hazards. It is updated weekly, so make sure you have the latest edition downloaded.
There are commercial cruising guides available for the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, but we found they added little to what the Coast Pilot provided for free.
The USCG has produced a general bar crossing guide with lots of relevant information. Individual bar crossing guides are available as well, and some can be found on this list. The following bar crossing guides (in pdf format) provide specific information about hazards for each bar crossing:
- Quillayute Bar Hazards
- Grays Harbour Bar Hazards
- Rogue River Bar Hazards
- Tillamook Bay Bar Hazards
- Yaquina Bay Bar Hazards
- Umpqua River Bar Hazards
- Depoe Bay Bar Hazards
- Columbia River Bar Hazards
- Coquille River Bar Hazards
- Chetco Bar Hazards
US Coast Guard
The US Coast Guard is a highly professional military search and rescue operation, and operates multiple stations up and down the coast. From late May through Labor Day, they also operate a number of seasonal stations, some located on the jetties surrounding bar crossings. They can be reached by VHF or by telephone (numbers are in the Coast Pilot, or on their website. Note them down before you go). Their VHF coverage is typically at least 25-50 miles offshore, and we found cell coverage was passable at 8-10 miles offshore and excellent at 5. It is ALWAYS worth calling by VHF or cell phone to get a bar forecast before committing to crossing any bar on the coast.
Charts
NOAA charts (both raster and vector) are free downloads and can be used in navigation programs like OpenCPN. They are frequently updated, and OpenCPN has a chart downloader that will automatically update your electronic charts directly from NOAA. Proprietary e-chart sets like C-Map or Navionics are also updated, but not as frequently. Like milk, bread and beer, charts are best fresh, so do use the free resources to ensure you have the most up to date information aboard. Paper charts for backup can be purchased individually, or you can get a ‘chart book’ that covers large sections of the coast. We elected to do the latter, buying two MAPTECH Chartbooks that covered the coast from the Canadian border to the Mexican border.
SY AVANT 🇨🇦 Rob & Debra – Beneteau 43.5
ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA'S ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA is in French Polynesia in the South Pacific. Their recent report shares a few different ways to explore the islands of Moorea and Tahiti:
We rented a scooter and toured the island of Moorea yesterday and did a 9-mile hike up to Belvedere and back on the 3-cocotier trail a few days ago...found many amazing views. Today, we took the ferry across to Tahiti at 7 am, rented a scooter and toured the whole island with several beautiful stops along the way. We sprinkled this tour with some provisioning that we could fit in backpacks and boxes on our rented scooter.
VIVASweet bike lane!
SV VIVA 
Pierre & Marie - Amel 52'
Adventurous and Practical! Thank you for sharing VIVA!
HISTORY OF BLACKBIRDING REMEMBERED
Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day
August 25, 2024
Blackbirding: A Dark Piece of History Remembered
Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day is significant as it recognizes the the arrival of the first South Sea Islanders to Queensland, Australia and a distinct cultural group that has become a part of the fabric of Australia's population and heritage. The arrival of the first South Sea Islanders was part of the practice of "blackbirding", or slave-trading, that went on in the mid to late 1800s in the South Pacific. Blackbirding refers to the recruitment, trickery, and outright stealing of people from their native lands forced to labor in distant lands. Labor conditions and pay were notoriously poor to inhumane.
This period of South Pacific history tangles with American history here: the US Civil War was dragging on and dramatically impacting worldwide supplies of sugar and cotton. Furthermore, as the US Civil War came to a close and it was apparent that the South would never be the same again, people from the Confederacy that had the means to escape found their way to the new places to practice their old ways: whether it be cash crops or slave trading. In response, new areas of production were opening up in new parts of the world like Australia, Fiji, and Hawaii. The new areas of production needed cheap laborers. Pacific Islanders, primarily from 80 different islands in Melanesia and Polynesia, were blackbirded and forced to work on new sugar and cotton plantations.
Tens of thousands of Pacific Island laborers were brought to Australia from neighboring Melanesian and Polynesian islands. In particular, Queensland, during the late 19th century, used these indentured laborers for work on sugarcane plantations. Estimates suggest around 60,000 to 80,000 humans were involved.
Fiji was another major destination and saw a significant influx of blackbirded laborers, with estimates ranging from 60,000 to 70,000 individuals. The sugarcane industry in Fiji heavily relied on coerced labor.
In Australia and other colonial powers involved in black birding, legislative measures were introduced to regulate and eventually restrict the recruitment of labor from Pacific Island nations. These measures aimed to improve labor conditions and protect the rights of indigenous populations. The practices associated with blackbirding were increasingly criticized by humanitarian and human rights advocates internationally. Reports of abuse, mistreatment, and exploitation of laborers led to growing pressure on countries involved in the practice to address these concerns. In various regions, including Australia and Fiji, labor reforms were introduced to address the unethical practices associated with blackbirding. The goal was to ensure fair treatment, appropriate wages, and better working conditions for laborers. Indigenous communities in affected regions began advocating for their rights and raising awareness about the mistreatment and exploitation they faced due to blackbirding. Their efforts contributed to increased attention on the issue and the need for change. As economies evolved and industries changed, the demand for labor through blackbirding diminished. Economic factors, coupled with increased awareness of ethical concerns, contributed to the decline of the practice. By the early 20th century, blackbirding had largely faded as a widespread practice due to a combination of the factors mentioned above. Many countries introduced laws and reforms to prevent the recruitment of labor through coercion and deception.
Formal Deportations of South Sea Island Laborers began in 1906 and continued until 1908. More than 7,500 South Sea Islanders were returned to their home country, though some had arrived in Australia at such a young age they would have had no memory of their exact origin. Indenture ceased in Fiji in 1911.
The official Australian South Sea Islander flag initially designed in consultation with the ASSI community. The flag was formally adopted in 1998. The color scheme incorporates colors resonant to people with forebears of which the three quarters of the trade were taken from the 83 islands of Vanuatu and are represented through colors green, gold and black, a third of the trade was from the Solomon Islands represented with blue, white, green. The overall flag is inclusive other parts of the South Pacific affected by Blackbirding as we are connected through the ocean blue and white stars.
While the formal abolition of blackbirding marked an important step in ending the exploitative practices, it's important to recognize that the legacy of blackbirding continues to impact affected communities to this day. The efforts to remember this history, address its consequences, and promote awareness of human rights and social justice continue in the affected regions.
THOR HEYERDAHL'S KON-TIKI EXPEDITION
UNSOLVED MYSTERIES:
SOLUTIONS WRITTEN IN THE SAND AT LOW TIDE
In spite of living in the age of information, there are many unsolved mysteries in the world yet. These are mysteries that may not ever be solved. Nonetheless, there have always been and will always be people unsettled with not knowing, asking questions, seeking answers, inventing theories, proposing possible solutions, and testing ideas. The question of human migration is one such mystery shrouded in many theories that do not all agree thereby leaving the definitive explanation as elusive as sailors plans written in the sand at low tide.
Luc & Viviane – Fountaine Pajot 42′ The story of Thor Heyerdahl can be found in books, museums, and in movies. He was born in Norway in 1914 and grew into an inquisitive and adventurous archeologist, geologist, ethnographer. He is most known for proposing, testing, and potentially proving his theory of human migration from South America to Polynesia. He surmised that Polynesia was actually populated from the east by Indigenous South Americans who drifted aboard balsawood rafts across the ocean. He sought to prove his theory by building a balsawood raft, which he named Kon-Tiki, lashing it together with natural materials as it may have been, setting out to sea, and drifting to Polynesia. However, in the spring of 1947, Kon-Tiki, Thor, and her crew put out to sea in search of ocean current that runs west from South America to Polynesia. After 101 days alone at sea, Heyerdahl completed his so-called Kon-Tiki expedition, leaving the world in awe. Kon-Tiki and her crew crashed into the eastern side of the Raroai Atoll in the Tuamotus in French Polynesia. Thor met few scholars who supported this theory of Polynesian settlement stemming from South America then or even now. However, his drift theory has been looked to by some as a testament to oceans as conduits for cultural transmission.
Set among a million shades of blue, a beautiful anchorage and a small monument to the Kon-Tiki expedition can be found on the inside of the Raroia Atoll in the Tuamotus.
WHEN THE HALYARD SKIES OFFSHORE...WHAT DO YOU DO?
WHEN THE HALYARD SKIES OFFSHORE...WHAT DO YOU DO?
On every passage there are sail changes and shifts that go smoothly or even better than expected...and then there are the surprises. Some surprises are more or less demanding than others. Our most recent surprise underway gave Captain Mike the opportunity to go up the mast in the middle of the ocean under clear blue skies over gentle 2 meter seas.
His thought was, "I'd rather see what it's like now under these conditions in case I have to consider going up the mast in anything else."
Here's what happened:
Last week, we sailed from the Marquesas to the Tuamotus. Conditions were excellent; we decided to go dead downwind and fly our Main and Jib wing and wing. We poled out the jib, adjusted our course, set the main, and put a preventer on it. The boat felt rock solid sliding down waves and sailing at 9-10 knots.
The wind slacked, we shook out the reef and sailed for maybe 5 more minutes before we heard a "floosh" sound and SURPRISE our mainsail lay a limp pile on the boom.
After minimal discussion, Mike went up the mast to retrieve the halyard. He used his ascenders on one of our spinnaker halyards and we backed it up with our second headsail halyard. At the second spreaders we swapped and he was raised the rest of the way on the headsail halyard and the spinnaker halyard was his backup. Now with all these halyards, where is the backup main halyard? THAT and a backup mizzen halyard are now on our list. Had we had a backup main halyard we could have waited to ascend the mast on anchor instead of underway. Hindsight is indeed 20:20!
Once down with the skied halyard, we found that the shackle had opened, the main twisted out, and bent the shackle arms open. We fixed that, reattached the halyard to the sail, raised the main.
Mike's Take-away:
"It was about what I expected. The hardest thing was staying on the mast. I would definitely not want to go up in anything more than that without more in place to make it easier...like maybe some mast steps or a better climbing set-up."
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajuela 48
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES UNDERWAY
Send our editor your story to editor@oceanposse.com
Marquesas named UNESCO World Heritage Site
Marquesas named
UNESCO World Heritage Site
According to the World Heritage Convention, The Marquesan Islands were recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its "exceptional testimony to the territorial occupation of the Marquesas archipelago by a human civilization that arrived by sea around the year 1000 CE and developed on these isolated islands between the 10th and the 19th centuries. It is also a hotspot of biodiversity that combines irreplaceable and exceptionally well conserved marine and terrestrial ecosystems. Marked by sharp ridges, impressive peaks and cliffs rising abruptly above the ocean, the landscapes of the archipelago are unparalleled in these tropical latitudes. The archipelago is a major centre of endemism, home to rare and diverse flora, a diversity of emblematic marine species, and one of the most diverse seabird assemblages in the South Pacific. Virtually free from human exploitation, Marquesan waters are among the world’s last marine wilderness areas. The property also includes archaeological sites ranging from monumental dry-stone structures to lithic sculptures and engravings." https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1707
The ancient Marquesan anthropomorphic sculptures or tiki have received wide attention since they were first noted in 1595. Oral stories of their significance are difficult to come by as many have been lost. The Marquesan language has been all but lost to French in the islands although, presently there are many people trying to study it, use it, and keep it alive. Beginning in 1980's, there have been academic efforts to trace the history of Marquesan language, spirituality, and stone structures. Stylistically the Marquesan stone tiki followed certain social rules with similar characteristics to tattoos and material objects.
SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE HUMPBACK WHALES MOVE TO THEIR BREEDING GROUNDS
SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE HUMPBACK WHALES
MOVE TO THEIR BREEDING GROUNDS
It is the austral winter in the Southern Hemisphere right now which means that the Southern Hemisphere humpback whale populations have moved from their feeding grounds along the Antarctic coast to their more northerly breeding grounds. In the South Pacific, that means that humpbacks can be seen and heard in their low latitude breeding grounds where they will mate and calve. Humpback Whales breed around oceanic islands, offshore seamounts, and reef systems.
Where to find Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales this time of year:
- Oceania in the South Pacific islands of French Polynesia, Samoa, Vanuatu, Fiji, Niue, Cook Islands, New Caledonia, Tonga, and Norfolk Island.
- The Pacific coasts of Central and South America as far north as northern Costa Rica to Ecuador including the Galapagos, and the Pacific Panamanian Islands.
- The Atlantic coastal waters off Brazil around 23 (degrees) S
- Southwestern and Southeastern Africa
- Northwestern and Northeastern Australia
According to Mark Carwardine’s HANDBOOK OF WHALES, DOLPHINS, AND PORPOISES OF THE WORLD: “Humpbacks that feed in widely separated regions in the summer gather together and mix in the same breeding grounds (increasing the chances of finding each other and promoting genetic diversity).” Like sea turtles there is a strong loyalty to natal breeding grounds. Mother -Calf pairs generally stay close to one another and prefer shallower water. They may or may not have another whale with them. Other groups of whales are usually made up of a female whale and a dominant ‘escort’ and perhaps other hopeful ‘escort - contenders’.
The demonstrative behaviors of humpback whales make are very distinct. Both males and females of all ages breech, dive, tail waggle and smack, and flipper wave and slap. They can be seen doing this on their own or in larger groups. Both males and females can vocalize for communications and the Singing Humpbacks are usually lone males. Their songs can travel great distances (tens of Kilometers) in the ocean to be heard underwater and through the hull of vessels. The songs are shared among large groups of whales and evolve. They have been described as everything from haunting to beautiful.
Up until the mid-1950’s the humpback whale as a species was depleted by 95% in the whaling days and today, their biggest threat is entanglement in fishing gear. Other threats include noise pollution, ship strikes, oil and gas development, and coastal habitat disturbance/destruction. Thankfully, global humpback whale populations have recovered significantly with the ending of commercial whaling and despite current threats this majestic whale is thriving.
MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI
MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI 
THE ORIGINAL GUNKHOLES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC
Levuka is a town on the eastern coast of the Fijian Island of Ovalau. Up until 1877, it was the capital of Fiji. Currently, this strangely haunted town has a population of about 5,000. It is the economic hub of the largest of 24 settlements on the Island. Levuka was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2013, in recognition of the port town's exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific Ocean.
The modern town of Levuka was founded around 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands. Levuka quickly became an important port and trading post in the Pacific. A disparate band of settlers made up Levuka's population- traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, vagabonds, and even respectable businessmen. Much of Levuka’s unique heritage is in its wooden architecture (highly vulnerable to fire).
The South Pacific's first Masonic Lodge was built in 1913 and housed the Freemasons that were established in Levuka by Alexander Barrack in 1875. There is much controversy about the Masonic fraternity in Fiji. The dominant traditional Christian faiths consider the Masons to be devil-worshippers. The Masonic Lodge was burned down in the 2000 Fiji coup d'etat. The Lodge contained priceless historical artifacts and records of Levuka's history dating back to 1875. The arsonists have yet to be identified and prosecuted.
GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE
GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE
Nuku Hiva, Marquesas
8°54.8555'S, 140°13.4389'W
Baie Marquesienne is on the western facing side of the island of Nuku Hiva. The Trade Winds generally blow from the East or SE; the swell is similar so this anchorage is generally in the lee of the island making the anchorage very calm and surprisingly dry. Since the water is calm, the clarity is pretty good too and there is a nice spot to snorkel on the N side of the anchorage. I saw sharks, dolphins, and lots of very colorful fish among large boulders and small bits of coral here and there. The bay is surrounded by rocky hillsides that appear to be dry with patches of green vegetation where wild goats roam and bleat all day long. A valley winds up into a steep canyon.
The head of the bay is a rather steep too so landing is not really an option. We have four people onboard and were fortunate to have two that wanted to stay onboard and two that wanted to explore. So, we got dropped off on the beach, brought a radio, some water, and headed off into the wild. There is no marked trail to follow but there are waterways (some dry, some running, some rushing) that we followed up and up and up...until we could not go up any more. As we travelled up the valley we found an oasis and a waterfall, wild pigs and goats, many different flowering trees and plenty of shade to stay cool.
https://goodnautical.com/french-polynesia/anchorage/anse-uea-bai-marquisienne
