MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

in 2017 UNESCO named Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia a world heritage site for its outstanding universal value, exceptional testimony to 1,000 years of pre-colonial mā'ohi civilization, and central location in the 'Polynesian Triangle'.  The 'points' on the Polynesian triangle are New Zealand, Hawaii, and Rapa Nui.  Taputapuātea is in the very center of this triangle of oceanic islands.  Both the cultural landscape and seascape on Ra’iātea make this a unique and remarkable place one must see.  Taputapuātea is an area that goes from the mountains through forested valleys spanning across a portion of lagoon and coral reef and a strip of open ocean.  In the center is the Marae of Taputapuātea.

The dark rectangular stone space is part of the Taputapuātea Marae complex: a political, ceremonial and funerary center on the edge of the lagoon surrounding the island. photo credit: P.F. Amar

The Marae of Taputapuātea is considered to be the most sacred pre-colonial Polynesian archeological sites in French Polynesia. UNESCO describes this site as:

"dedicated to the god ‘Oro and the place where the world of the living (Te Ao) intersects the world of the ancestors and gods (Te Po). It also expresses political power and relationships. The rise in the importance of Taputapuātea among the marae on Raiatea and in the wider region is linked to the line of Tamatoa ari’i (chiefs) and the expansion of their power. Taputapuātea was the centre of a political alliance that brought together two widespread regions encompassing most of Polynesia. The alliance was maintained by regular gatherings of chiefs, warriors and priests who came from the other islands to meet at Taputapuātea. The building of outrigger canoes and ocean navigation were key skills in maintaining this network.

A traditional landscape surrounds both sides of the Taputapuātea marae complex. The marae complex looks out to Te Ava Mo'a, a sacred pass in the reef that bounds the lagoon. Atāra motu is an islet in the reef and a habitat for seabirds. Ocean-going arrivals waited here before being led through the sacred pass and formally welcomed at Taputapuātea. On the landward side, ’Ōpo’a and Hotopu’u are forested valleys ringed by ridges and the sacred mountain of Tea’etapu. The upland portions of the valleys feature older marae, such as marae Vaeāra’i and marae Taumariari, agricultural terraces, archaeological traces of habitations and named features related to traditions of gods and ancestors. Vegetation in the valleys is a mix of species, some endemic to Raiatea, some common to other Polynesian islands and some imported food species brought by ancient Polynesians for cultivation. Together, the attributes of the property form an outstanding relict and associative cultural landscape and seascape."

Throughout Polynesia the Marae are communal or sacred sites in village life. In order to build a marae in another location, it is said that one must start with a stone from Taputapuātea.  The marae are places with different functions.   They are places where the world of the living intersected with the world of village ancestors and Polynesian gods.  They are places where people gather for ceremony, dance, connecting with the past and with community.

People gather in the Taputapuatea marae for ceremony.  photo credit GIE Tourisme

This video is a product of the cumulative effort of cultural and historical groups presenting the significance of Taputapuātea in the past, the present, and for the future.

https://youtu.be/wXbJXHR8-3g?t=391

People navigated to and from Taputapuatea in the past and continue today.  photo credit GIE Tourisme
Fishing in the waters of Taputapuatea is a part of traditional life.  photo credit: A. Wickel
Marine biodiverity in Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama
Coral shelf surrounding Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama

 

Mountains of Taputapuatea photo credit: P.F. Amar

FIJIAN CULTURE AND THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

FIJI: THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

In traditional villages in Fiji Sevusevu is and has been the central component of all life-cycle rituals, social gatherings, healing ceremonies and community meetings.  Significant and ancient in Fiji, the “sevusevu” also marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village.

In more formal settings, Sevusevu includes a complete performance where each male from the village has a specific role to play. Traditional attire is worn with pride, collected rain water is poured from bamboo shafts, pounded kava is strained through hibiscus bark and each bilo (drinking bowl from the half-shell of a coconut) is delivered deliberately and seriously in absolute silence (aside from the sound of deep ‘Cobo’ claps in acceptance and thanks of each ‘bilo’)

Every Sevusevu is not as formal as pictured above however there is a distinct and courteous process visitors must follow.  Further, understanding the significance of Sevusevu, respecting, and adhering to the tradition of this process helps to keep this aspect of Fijian Culture strong.

Longtime Ocean Posse member Chris on SV SEAGLUB has been living in Fiji for several years.   He shares the following about his experience with the Sevesevu:

In Fiji, when visiting smaller settlements, a visitor must seek out the village chief and present him with a small token or gift as a sign of respect and to ask permission to visit. This not only gives visitors permission to interact with the villagers but also to stay in the town and to visit any local scenery (such as beaches, waterfalls etc). Not doing so shows disrespect for their culture, but is also the equivalent of trespassing – for example pitching a tent in someone's backyard without permission.

‘Sevusevu’ is the name given to the actual gift or token that visitors present the chief with, most commonly a half-kilo bumdle of waka (kava root).  When arriving in the village, visitors should ask for the Turaga ni Koro (pronounced as too-ranga nee koro) or the village headman, as they usually have good English skills and will help with the translations. The headman will take visitors to the chief’s house for introduction. Remember no hats are to be worn once in the village and you should take your shoes off at the door before entering houses. Sitting cross legged on the floor, the kava root is then presented to the chief.

To ensure you are respectful of this important tradition, there are a few points of etiquette to follow. Firstly, everyone at the ceremony should dress in a sulu, which is a Fijian skirt regarded as their national dress. Women should also cover their shoulders. Men should sit cross-legged, ensuring that their sulu covers their knees, and women should sit with knees and feet together. Do not take photographs or videos throughout the ceremony, until the Turaga ni Koro lets you know that it’s okay to do so. Silence during the ceremony itself is crucial.

The ceremony itself is poignant. Afterwards you'll be welcomed as nothing less than family.

SV SEAGLUB 🇺🇸 Chris -Hylas 46'

 

Anchorage in Fulaga, Fiji

 


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