SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT
SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT
with help from Russell Descheemaeker age 14
Polynesia covers a vast stretch of Pacific Ocean Islands that has a longstanding history of distinctly self-sufficient island people who spoke their own unique language that had a rich seafaring life in common.ย What is known as modern day surfing once went by many different names from โHลrueโ (Tahitian for gliding on the waves) to heสปe naluโฏ(Hawaiian for wave sliding).ย While the word for the activity varied by dialect, early water sliding and gliding dates as far back as the 12th century in Polynesia.ย Many believe that this water activity had religious significance and was seen as an important part of ancient Polynesian life and culture before making tis way to Hawaii where it developed and grew substantially. ย Formally, surfing was recorded byโฏJoseph Banksโฏaboard theโฏEndeavourโฏduring the first journey ofโฏ the famous Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1769.ย ย
Joseph banks wrote in Captain Cook's journal
...their chief [sic] amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out as far as the outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness. Sometimes they were carried almost ashore...โ
In Tahiti and Samoa, surfing was a popular activity that was often used as part of warriors' training.ย Said warriors would often be seen by early Europeans paddling to surf breaks spending many hours bravely paddling head-on into large surf and riding waves.ย Canoes often went with surfing parties and the men would often swap between canoeing and paddling boards.ย ย
In the late 1700's missionaryโs spread the word of God through Polynesia.ย Much native culture, language, and spirituality was suppressed as a direct result of contact with early missionaries.ย (Side Note: The Shark God by Charles Montgomery is an interesting story tracing the history of missionaries in Polynesia)ย Wave sliding was deemed a form of Devil worship and was thereby among the suppressed native activities.ย However, the sport was so widespread across the Pacific Ocean that it was not fully stamped it out.ย In Hawai'i, surfing had become ingrained into the very fabric of Hawaii'an religion and culture that it managed to withstand many tests through time, conflict, and diseases brought by early Europeans.ย Some estimates speculate that the native population of the Hawaiian islands was about 800,000 people before European germ contact dessimated the native population to 40,000.ย There were surfers among the survivors and the sport continued to entertain, interest, and connect people to the water.ย In 1890, a man named Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was born.ย In his lifetime, he changed the sport, restoring its popularity and fanfare.ย Duke was a two time gold mettle Olympic swimmer and he loved the water.ย His love was contagious. ย
Duke died at the age of 77 on January 22, 1968.ย The sport continued to grow and his memory and influence live on. Fast forward to the present and surfing is enjoyed by enthusiasts both recreationally as a relaxed water activity and by olympic athletes as a modern and extreme sport.
France is currently hosting the 2024 Surfing Olympics on the South side of the island of Tahiti, an island in western French Polynesia.ย The world famous blue barrel wave called Teahupo'u was so big on Thursday July 29, that the surfing games are on hold until Saturday, Aug 3rd.
A very interesting graphic and description of the wave and how it is uniquely formed by off the mountainous reef fringed reef is here:
https://www.reuters.com/graphics/OLYMPICS-2024/SURFING/akpeoxnyopr/
MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG - Erick & Jenny
MEET THE FLEET: SVย WINDSONG
Erick & Jenny
It was a lifelong dream of mine to sail my own boat to beautiful remote places in search of perfect, empty surf breaks, enjoying fishing and other adventures along the way. Around 2007, after my first few years of office work after college, I decided to chase the dream and see if I could make it a reality. Having no prior experience, I took a few sailing lessons to see if it was something I would enjoy and was immediately hooked. Instead of taking a sensible route towards boat ownership, I dove headfirst into buying a derelict project boat and spent the next 10 years fully rebuilding Windsong, a 1975 Downeaster 38 Cutter, into a practically brand new (yet still old) boat.ย Having little to no relevant skills, I had to learn everything as I went, which in the end gave me a great set of knowledge and experience concerning the ins and outs of the boat.
Once Windsong was as complete as she could be in late 2019, my partner Jenny and I got married, and within a month we moved aboard and set sail for our honeymoon.ย Leaving from our home port, St. Augustine, FL, and bounced our way down the Florida intercoastal waterway to get a feel for life on the move and at anchor. We started our journey with our senior boxer dog, Koda, who took to cruising life with great happiness as she was able to spend all day, every day with us.ย After a month or so of Florida coastal cruising, we crossed over to the Bahamas and island hopped for the next few months until Covid shut most of the country down.ย We sailed back to the US and spent the next summer between South Carolina and Florida. Unfortunately, Koda was not long for the world at this time, so she was put to rest. While it was a devastating moment for us, it did free us up to sail greater distances.ย We went back to the Bahamas and spent a full season sailing from the Abacos all the way down to Great Inagua. From there we crossed directly to Panama on our first long passage across the Caribbean Sea.
We spent almost two years in Panama, mostly in Bocas Del Toro on the Caribbean side. With great surfing, protected anchorages, affordable living, and fantastic people; it was hard to not stay forever. However, we decided our sailing days were not done, and wanted to cross the Pacific and experience the remote South Pacific tropics. We geared the boat up a bit more, and once all was ready, we first crossed the Panama Canal and set sail to the Galapagos.ย We applied for and received a 1-year visa for French Polynesia, so after 24 days at sea from the Galapagos we arrived in the Marquesas and then took our time going through the French Polynesian islands, savoring each bit along the way.ย One year later, we set sail from French Polynesia and with some stops along the way we are now in Fiji, where we will spend the rest of the 2024 cruising season.ย ย We do not know where the winds will take us next, but we are looking forward to exploring these lovely islands for as long as they captivate us.
SVย WINDSONG Erick & Jenny - Downeaster Cutter 38โฒ
BOATWORK IN PARADISE: RE-SPLICING HALYARDS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF NUKU HIVA
RE-SPLICING HALYARDS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF NUKU HIVA
Following through after our June 9th article:
Chafe: Find It, Fix it, Get Ahead of it
(LINK????)
Cruising offers so many takes on life.ย Among them "Boatwork in beautiful places" rings true time and time again aboard SV WHIRLWIND.ย Granted this 'grind' is part of the fun of raising our sails, putting miles beneath our keel, watching dolphins surf our bow, sharing sundowners, and sailing for days and days to distant shores.
This week Captain Mike set about to re-splice the portside Spinnaker halyard that had chafed on our Pacific Crossing in May. Once we found the trades en route to French Polynesia we had the opportunity to fly the spinnaker for days on end before the conditions changed and a new sail was required.ย ย It was on one of these sail changes that we noticed that the head of the halyard had been chafing on something at the top of the mast.ย While the cover was shot, the core was fine and we had to put that halyard to rest until now.
(Side note: Redundancy to the rescue!ย Thankfully, when the conditions called for a spinnaker again, we were still able to raise ours as we have a starboard spinnaker halyard that carried us the rest of the way.)
Getting geared up to Re-splice the halyard where it was damaged, Mike took the opportunity to do a few upgrades that had been on hisย 'list for sometime'.ย We hadn't had a shackle in at the head of the line.ย We had been attaching the halyard with a bowline.ย Additionally, he put a new eye splice in the bitter end.ย See photos below for Re-splicing inspiration.
SY WHIRLWIND ๐บ๐ธ Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea โ Alajuela 48โ
GOOD NAUTICAL: Makogai Island Dalice Village, FIJI
GOOD NAUTICAL:
Makogai Island Dalice Village, FIJI
17ยฐ 26.4200' S, 178ยฐ 57.9100' E
Makogai is located in the heart of the Lomaiviti Group in Fji.ย Makogai is not only abundant with biodiversity and beauty, but brimming with South Pacific history. Like many Islands in the South Pacific, approaching the island and navigating to the anchorage requires careful study, preparation, and planning.ย Ideally, once the anchor is set gently in the sand paradise it found.
Recently, Pacific Posse member asked the group whether anyone had a track for entering Makogai.ย Chris on SeaGlub quickly responded:
Haven't been myself but this is a shot from trusted friends:
*NOTE: these tracks are shared friend to friend...a POSSE PERK...verification and a sharp lookout still required.
To read more about Makogai click on this link:
https://www.fijimarinas.com/anchorage-at-makogai-a-significant-south-pacific-treasure/
Makogai Island, located in Fiji's Lomaiviti Group, offers a unique experience for sailors, blending natural beauty with rich historical significance. The island is best known for its past as a leprosy colony from 1911 to 1969, and today, remnants of this history can still be explored, including the old leper colony ruins and a graveyard. The island now serves as a mariculture center focused on the conservation and breeding of giant clams, an effort crucial for maintaining marine biodiversityโ (Two At Sea)โโ (Levuka Town)โ.
For sailors, anchoring at Makogai Island, particularly in Dalice Bay, presents a serene and picturesque spot. The anchorage is protected by surrounding reefs and small islets, offering a calm and enclosed environment. The approach to Dalice Bay can be navigated through two main passes, with the north entrance often preferred for its ease. Once anchored, sailors can engage with the island's caretaker, who also acts as an informal chief, by participating in a traditional sevusevu ceremony, where kava is presented as a gift. In return, the caretaker provides a tour of the island, including the leper colony ruins and the giant clam farmโ (Two At Sea)โโ (Wikipedia)โ.
Makogai Island is also home to a significant marine research station, focusing on the conservation of giant clams and trochus clams. This initiative began in the 1980s and has since played a vital role in repopulating Fiji's reefs with these important species. The island's ecosystem, featuring verdant hills, palm-covered flatlands, and clear teal waters, adds to the allure for visiting sailorsโ (Wikipedia)โโ (Diver Bliss)โ.
MEET THE FLEET: KEKADA II Don & Anja
MEET THE FLEET: KEKADA II
Don & Anja
We are Anja and Don on mv Kekada II, a Leopard 53 power catamaran. Don started sailing over 50 years ago and convinced Anja to undertake a circumnavigation with our children from 1998 - 2003. We have been cruising off and on since then. This is our third pacific crossing, albeit, our first in a power boat. We took delivery in Cape Town in 2022 and decided to take the "short" way home to Australia crossing the south atlantic the same year before joining the Panama Posse in 2023/24 for our cruise up to Mexico. Currently enjoying the unspoilt island of Wallis in the south pacific before continuing our voyage to Fiji and beyond.
(We published in a) recent leopard blog (and) discussed our current voyage in more detail. https://blog.leopardcatamarans.com/circumnavigating-in-a-power-catamaran?utm_campaign=Leopard%20Catamarans%20Blog%20Subscription%20Notification&utm_medium=email&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-94z0hvSgiS7IqZp090TKR40FV8x6UlS9IaSWl0g_ypaqf68Ed31wSZXI-vMZ8lR9kFcOsKfgpZ3QvexqFMEpB1pUxvKQ&_hsmi=316495289&utm_content=316495289&utm_source=hs_email
SAFETY ALERT: RAINY SEASON IS DENGUE SEASON
About Dengue:
Mosquitoes Spread Dengue.ย Dengue is caused by any one of four related viruses (dengue virus 1, 2, 3, and 4). The same type of mosquitoes can also spread chikungunya, Zika, and other viruses.ย If a person is infected with different dengue viruses during their life, it increases the chance of severe disease.ย Dengue viruses are spread to people through the bite of an infected Aedes species mosquito. Mosquitoes come out to feed around sunrise and sunset, but people can be bitten by an infected mosquito at any time.ย Aedes mosquitoes often like to rest in closets or other indoor locations near humans.ย Aedes mosquitoes typically lay eggs in containers with standing water, like buckets, bowls, animal dishes, flowerpots, and vases.ย During the rainy season mosquitoes have many many places to lay eggs and reproduce which is why Rainy season often sees a higher incidence of Dengue.ย Presently, all members in locations experiencing the rainy season are wise to be aware and cautious.ย Avoid mosquito bites by whatever means works for you.
Avoiding Dengue:
- Wear repellent to reduce mosquito bites. Repellents with DEET or picaridin give the longest protection, but there are many less toxic and non toxic effective options available.
- Mosquitos are most active in the morning and in the afternoon/early evening when the sun is on the horizon.ย Be more vigilant during these hours.
- Remove standing water where mosquitos may lay eggs, such as tires, buckets, planters, toys, pools, birdbaths, flowerpot saucers, or trash containers. Check indoors items that hold water, such as vases or flowerpot saucers.
- Close windows and doors or install screens. Consider using an indoor insecticide if you have mosquitoes in your home.
Dengue Symptoms and Warning Signs
- Infection with dengue virus can result in no symptoms, mild, or severe illness. Severe dengue can be life-threatening within a few hours and requires care at a hospital although this is very rare.
- The most common symptom of dengue is fever with any of the following: nausea, vomiting, rash, aches, and pains (including muscle, joint, or bone pain or eye pain, typically behind the eyes).ย There is no specific medicine to treat dengue virus infection.
- About one in 20 people who get sick with dengue will develop severe dengue. Severe dengue can result in shock, internal bleeding, and even death.ย If you have had dengue in the past, you are more likely to develop severe dengue when re-infected with a different serotype, though severe disease can also occur on the first infection.ย Infants and pregnant women are at higher risk of developing severe dengue.
- Watch for signs and symptoms of severe dengue. Warning signs usually begin in the 24-48 hours after your fever has gone away.ย Immediately seek medical evaluation if you have any of the following symptoms:ย belly pain or tenderness, vomiting (at least three times in 24 hours), bleeding from the nose or gums, vomiting blood, blood in your stool, or feeling tired, restless, or irritable. Do not delay seeking medical attention.
FOR MORE INFORMATION SEE THIS LINK:ย
https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/dengue-and-severe-dengue
MEET THE FLEET: SV BETHANIA Wolfgang & Paulina
SV Bethania coming through the Panama Canal flying their Chilean Flag
We are Wolfgang Schulze & Paulina Troncoso.
Wolfgang began sailing when he was 12-13 years old.ย 5 years later we met and I soon started to sail with him.ย We had our first sailboat after we married: an old wooden 32 ft.ย Our second boat was a Morgan 38ft sloop.ย We sailed from Florida to Chilean Patagonia. We sailed 15 years along the Chilean coast.ย Then we decided to sail out of Chile and started from Valparaiso to Galapagos, through de Canal, Cartagena de Indias, San Andres, Providencia, Roatan, Rio dulce, Riviera Maya Mexico, Guatemala, USA, Bahamas Turcs and Caicos, Dominican Republic and BVI.ย We loved this boat and all the places we went.ย Unfortunately our lovely boat sank in hurricane Irma in St Maarten on 2017.ย We began our new adventure rebuilding a Irwin 54 ft monohull sloop for 18 months in St Peterburg, Florida.
We named this vessel Bethania.
Aboard Bethania, we recently crossed the Panama Canal with our friend, Marco.ย We went out the the Perlas Archipelago to prepare for our ocean Crossing.ย The journey from Isla Contadora to Hiva Oa, in the Marquesan islands of French Polynesia took us 32 days without any problems. We really enjoyed every day; every day was different. The wind , the sea, the sky were different. Not one of us wanted to get to the islands; we were so happy and relaxed.ย We had sailed long before, but never such a long distance.
left to right: Marco, Pauline, & Wolfgang: Their Chilean flag signed and their Pacific Crossing Complete.
FLEET UPDATE 2024-05-01
|
|
|
Entering and Exiting Atolls in the South Pacific
Entering and Exiting Atolls in the South Pacific
1) enter during daylight hours
2) go in a slack tide or near slack tide – use interpolation to calculate slack tide – interploation and other tools are NOT perfect – be prepared to enter with ripples coming through
3) many times the atoll will still “empty out like a teacup” even though you are near slack tide as trade winds continuously fill the atoll due to elevated trade winds / big swell braking over the S / SE portion of the atolls
4) the most dangerous part are standing waves if you see those do NOT enter and wait
5) when entering with and out-flowing atoll your steering is enhanced as there is more water flowing over your rudders so in many case going in is easier than going out.
6) use satellite charts in addition to sonar charts to validate where shoaling and coral heads are as you enter the atoll.
7) if you can avoid entering during a squall, during low visibility and do no enter at night
8) The bigger the Atoll and the fewer the openings ( outflows ) the more ripping the current will be and the later the entry will be from slack tide
THE LONG OF IT
Where tide is of interest is around the atolls, explicitly when you are attempting to enter or leave one. Each pass is a flowing gateway.ย . The thing that matters is the passes here are undeniably more impacted by wind and wave impacts.
In the wake of visiting our third atoll and paying attention to the day to day dramatizations of othersย , we areย examinging out when that subtle leeway will happen includes as much art as seamanship.
A few different rules for individual passes, again corresponding to a decent time from an essential port. Different tidal forecast distributions have a similar issue. They need to give you direction yet are restricted by the way that any direction they really do give is probably going to be erroneous.
There are not many essential ports here and the distance between where you are attempting to sort out your tides and where the essential is can rush to many miles. The two nearest to usย Rangiroa (160miles away) and
Tahanea (around 100 miles), neither precisely close. Not an issue, I hear you say.
The enormous issue with the Tuamotos is that there are extra factors that can essentially modify the hour of slack waterย Despite the fact that tides are little, seldom north of one meter even at springs, the base outward momentum speed at passes in times of clear, actually weather conditions runs somewhere in the range of 4 and 6kts, subject to the atoll. With gigantic measures of water hustling all through the frequently restricted passes with reef tight either side, races, bubbles, standing waves and overfalls are normal external the brief time of slack, importance travel during slack remaining parts ideal. Nonetheless, the key proclamation that you should comprehend is that the active momentum speed is affected by climate and can, anytime of the tide, be essentially higher a speed than the approaching flowing stream.
Wind over tide is a significant thought ย In the Tuamotus, Atolls for the most part run SE to NW in locations. Most atolls are comprised of motus (the more modest islands making up the atoll’s edge) on the E side, where millennia of the ordinary tradesย ย have kept sand and ruin within the reef to shape them. The safeguarded W side is undeniably more infertile and most frequently comprises basically of reef with a couple of little segregated motus as it were. The S and N finishes of atolls will regularly have a motus because of the wave wash over impact of the ocean.
A few atolls (Makemo for example) have not many extremely lengthy motus on its E side which gives brilliant security to the tidal pond. Be that as it may, the more prominent the quantity of motus making up the E side of an atoll (Raroia has parts),
When the water is in the tidal pond, it necessities to get away and most atolls have yet a couple of fundamental passes where the water can escape from. Restricted measures of water will stream back out through the holes between the motus or back over the reef.
The course a pass faces is an element. One that faces E, into the Exchanges, will constantly have a breeze over tide impact during an active stream, keeping down and dialing the outward stream back
A decent wide, profound channel permits more water to drop of the tidal pond.
Also he size of the atoll thus the size of the catch region for water streaming in to the tidal pond. The most grounded of flowing races is at Hao, an exceptionally huge atoll. More than 30 miles in length it has a solitary pass confronting N. With such a lot of water coming into the tidal pond tossed over the reef, the race can work out positively past 10kts on an outward stream.
Thus, how much water in the tidal pond attempting to escape through the pass anytime of tide is the amount of what the weather conditions has unloaded across the reef and the typical tide. The more water there is in the tidal pond, the more prominent the momentum strength and speed of the active stream. This then, at that point, impacts a contrast among determined and genuine pants times. Furthermore, assuming that the tidal pond is exceptionally high after a time of terrible climate, you might find that the outward stream refutes the approaching tide, meaning no leeway period by any stretch of the imagination.
The Well known Guestimator gives the accompanying augmentations to current outward stream speeds:
1. Add 1 kt for each day the breeze has been blowing north of 20 kts from a S or W part
2. Add 0.5 kt for each day the breeze has been blowing more than 15 kts from a S or W part
3. Add 0.5 kt for each 1/2 meter augmentation of southerly swell over 1.5 meters (ie 3 meter grow = +1.5 kt)
4. Cap the Breeze Wave factor at 1.5 times the Typical Max Current
5. Take away 0.5 kt for wide/profound passes and for every additional pass that an atoll has