POSSE PERK: 🗺️ Free aid to navigation 150 Gb OpenCPN satellite charts (mac/pc/android)

POSSE PERK: 🗺️ Free aid to navigation

150 Gb OpenCPN satellite charts (mac/pc/android)

PLUS vetted tracks to safe anchorages

Ocean Posse member SV Whirlwind's navigation station prepping to enter Raroia, Tuamotus.  Three data sets: Radar (top left), Navionics with satellite overlan (bottom left), & OpenCPN (Bottom right) with vetted tracks overlayed on satellite chart to follow safe route through the Raroia Atoll in the Tuamotus.

Open CPN is a chartplotter navigation software that allows mariners to upload multiple charts and satellites images that can be overlayed on one another to confirm what one sees (or does not see) with the chart.  It is a huge departure from the days of early explorers that navigated by compass, distant accounts, clouds, and stars.  Open CPN takes navigating to a whole different level filled with information.  Ocean Posse members have access to relavent Open CPN Charts and Files that aid navigation and keep vessels and crews safer on the water.  SV Whirlwind used Open CPN above to navigate an entrance through a passage in a reef into an atoll.

They went from this:

Outside the Atoll the open Ocean

To This:

 

Mike setting floats on our anchor chain in Raroia, Tuomotus
Bliss

Ocean Posse members have access to Open CPN Charts, tracks, and How to Seminars

STAY SAFE AND NAVIGATE WITH CONFIDENCE

*IMPORTANT OpenCPN Version 5.10.0 was released August 10, 2024*

5.10.0 is a service/maintenance version to 5.8.4.

OpenCPN 5.10.0 series contains some new features and improvements "under the hood". Many of these changes make OpenCPN work even better.
.

Among them are:

- Grib plugin adds direct GRIB file download capability from multiple online resources.
- Enhanced native NMEA2000 network interface capability from numerous third party gateway devices.
- Update core wxWidgets support to wx3.25.
- Full support for Flatpak on virtually all linux distributions, for both x86 and Arm64 architectures.
- Native support for generic Debian linux distributions, particularly plugin system.
- Improved OpenGL graphics support and performance on all platforms.
- Incorporated extensive user feedback to resolve various UI flaws and functional errors.
- Improved embedded User Manual, mirroring evolving online Wiki presentation.
- Improved reliability and stability across all platforms.

It can be downloaded at https://opencpn.org/OpenCPN/info/downloadopencpn.html

 


Marquesas named UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Marquesan Flag

Marquesas named

UNESCO World Heritage Site

 

 

The Marquesan Islands are the most isolated island group on the planet in the northern reaches of French Polynesia.  They have abundant fresh water, fertile soil, many valleys, and an year round growing season.  They were once the home of tens of thousands of Polynesians.  Now the 12 islands are home to under 10,000 people.

According to the World Heritage Convention, The Marquesan Islands were recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its "exceptional testimony to the territorial occupation of the Marquesas archipelago by a human civilization that arrived by sea around the year 1000 CE and developed on these isolated islands between the 10th and the 19th centuries. It is also a hotspot of biodiversity that combines irreplaceable and exceptionally well conserved marine and terrestrial ecosystems. Marked by sharp ridges, impressive peaks and cliffs rising abruptly above the ocean, the landscapes of the archipelago are unparalleled in these tropical latitudes. The archipelago is a major centre of endemism, home to rare and diverse flora, a diversity of emblematic marine species, and one of the most diverse seabird assemblages in the South Pacific. Virtually free from human exploitation, Marquesan waters are among the world’s last marine wilderness areas. The property also includes archaeological sites ranging from monumental dry-stone structures to lithic sculptures and engravings." https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1707

The ancient Marquesan anthropomorphic sculptures or tiki have received wide attention since they were first noted in 1595.  Oral stories of their significance are difficult to come by as many have been lost.  The Marquesan language has been all but lost to French in the islands although, presently there are many people trying to study it, use it, and keep it alive.  Beginning in 1980's, there have been academic efforts to trace the history of Marquesan language, spirituality, and stone structures. Stylistically the Marquesan stone tiki followed certain social rules with similar characteristics to tattoos and material objects.

Copra, drying on the left, is a very common economy for local Marquesans
There are huge basalt pinnacles on Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas

 


SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE HUMPBACK WHALES MOVE TO THEIR BREEDING GROUNDS

SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE HUMPBACK WHALES

MOVE TO THEIR BREEDING GROUNDS

 

Humpback Mother and Calf

It is the austral winter in the Southern Hemisphere right now which means that the Southern Hemisphere humpback whale populations have moved from their feeding grounds along the Antarctic coast to their more northerly breeding grounds.  In the South Pacific, that means that humpbacks can be seen and heard in their low latitude breeding grounds where they will mate and calve.  Humpback Whales breed around oceanic islands, offshore seamounts, and reef systems.

Where to find Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales this time of year:

  • Oceania in the South Pacific islands of French Polynesia, Samoa, Vanuatu, Fiji, Niue, Cook Islands, New Caledonia, Tonga, and Norfolk Island.
  • The Pacific coasts of Central and South America as far north as northern Costa Rica to Ecuador including the Galapagos, and the Pacific Panamanian Islands.
  • The Atlantic coastal waters off Brazil around 23 (degrees) S
  • Southwestern and Southeastern Africa
  • Northwestern and Northeastern Australia

According to Mark Carwardine’s HANDBOOK OF WHALES, DOLPHINS, AND PORPOISES OF THE WORLD: “Humpbacks that feed in widely separated regions in the summer gather together and mix in the same breeding grounds (increasing the chances of finding each other and promoting genetic diversity).”  Like sea turtles there is a strong loyalty to natal breeding grounds.  Mother -Calf pairs generally stay close to one another and prefer shallower water.  They may or may not have another whale with them.  Other groups of whales are usually made up of a female whale and a dominant ‘escort’ and perhaps other hopeful ‘escort - contenders’.

The demonstrative behaviors of humpback whales make are very distinct.  Both males and females of all ages breech, dive, tail waggle and smack, and flipper wave and slap. They can be seen doing this on their own or in larger groups.  Both males and females can vocalize for communications and the Singing Humpbacks are usually lone males.  Their songs can travel great distances (tens of Kilometers) in the ocean to be heard underwater and through the hull of vessels.  The songs are shared among large groups of whales and evolve.  They have been described as everything from haunting to beautiful.

Photo Credit: SV PRIYA

Up until the mid-1950’s the humpback whale as a species was depleted by 95% in the whaling days and today, their biggest threat is entanglement in fishing gear.  Other threats include noise pollution, ship strikes, oil and gas development, and coastal habitat disturbance/destruction.  Thankfully, global humpback whale populations have recovered significantly with the ending of commercial whaling and despite current threats this majestic whale is thriving.


MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE

MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE

Kevin & Carla

SV GARGOYLE on anchor

From the moment Kevin and Carla departed Vancouver BC on May 31, 2019, their first “real” goal was to be in Barra de Navidad in time for the 2019 Panama Posse kickoff meeting at the end of November. That first five months and 4,000 + NM set the tone for the crew of SV Gargoyle, a 2011 Beneteau Oceanis 50. Kevin, Carla, along with their two cats, Sam and Dean, have been sailing proudly under a Posse banner of one flavor or another ever since.

Posse in Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua...on COVID lockdown

2020 highlights included being locked down in Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua with a number of other posse members. Once they were allowed to leave, Gargoyle beat upwind for nine days to the Galapagos to be one of the first yachts post-COVID to be allowed into these magical islands. After two months in paradise with the islands to themselves, it was time to head East for their first Panama Canal transit and a planned May 2021 Atlantic transit. Insert the Omnicom variant into the story and with Portugal telling them they wouldn’t be allowed into the Azores; they made a 180 degree turn back to Panama for canal transit number two. The decision was now to go the other way to the Med, via the Pacific!

Departing from Marina Papagayo in March 2022 with Dietmar wishing us fair winds from the dock, Gargoyle made a 30-day passage to Nuku Hiva, followed by a season cruising French Polynesia and Fiji. Spending cyclone season in New Zealand, they experienced not one but two cyclones. Leary of the Red Sea they decided to ship Gargoyle with Posse Partner Sevenstar Yacht Transport from Auckland to Cork Ireland in May 2023.

SV GARGOYLE on the Transport through the Panama Canal for the third time.

After Gargoyle made her 3rd Panama Canal transit, albeit without her crew, what followed was a magical summer in Ireland and Scotland before a late summer run to Spain, Portugal and then the Med. A winter in Tunisia followed by this season’s cruising in Malta, Sicily, Italy, up to Venice, Greece and now where they sit anchored off Bodrum, Turkey. 24 countries, 40,000NM and yes, Sam and Dean are still rocking it with their human crew.

Carla and Sam in the cockpit.
Dean's got it made in the shade.

Follow us on....

Instagram  https://www.instagram.com/sv_gargoyle/

Facebook   https://www.facebook.com/svgargoyle50

YouTube     https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOihVJ744XS4CoB71HixcFw/

Kevin and Carla are always available as well for a call or email exchange with their fellow cruisers. sailinggargoyle@gmail.com

SV GARGOYLE 🇨🇦 Kevin & Carla - Beneteau Oceanis 50

 

THANK YOU KEVIN & CARLA FOR BEING A PART OF THE POSSE FOR SO MANY YEARS!


BOCAS DEL TORO BEACH CLEAN UP

BOCAS DEL TORO BEACH CLEAN UP

Beach clean up crew in Bocas del Torro, Panama
Stewardship in action: So much plastic we find on the beaches we visit is floating in from somewhere else. Local people appreciate all the help we can give to keep their beaches clean.

Report from Maison de Sante:

We had a nice group of Posse boats and local residents here in Bocas Del Toro, Panama who came out this morning for clean up on Red Frog beach. Many pounds of plastic garbage was collected 😊. The strangest items collected included a bicycle mud flap, a scuba purge valve, and a diaper🤢. Some people had to leave early so not everyone is pictured. Stay tuned for a future date where we can ALL participate in beach clean up wherever you are located!

SY BISOU 🇦🇺 Robin and Tad - Fountaine Pajot 44′ & SY MAISON DE SANTÉ 🇺🇸 Nicole & Keenan -  Cal 46'

THANK YOU FOR BEING STEWARDS OF OUR ENVIRONMENT!


MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI

MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI 🇫🇯

THE ORIGINAL GUNKHOLES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Levuka Signpost and town entrance
Levuka was once the capitol of Fijji

Levuka is a town on the eastern coast of the Fijian Island of Ovalau.  Up until 1877, it was the capital of Fiji.  Currently, this strangely haunted town has a population of about 5,000.  It is the economic hub of the largest of 24 settlements on the Island.  Levuka was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2013, in recognition of the port town's exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific Ocean.

Old image of Levuka

The modern town of Levuka was founded around 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands.  Levuka quickly became an important port and trading post in the Pacific.  A disparate band of settlers made up Levuka's population- traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, vagabonds, and even respectable businessmen.  Much of Levuka’s unique heritage is in its wooden architecture (highly vulnerable to fire).

The South Pacific’s first Masonic Lodge is Levuka’s only Romanesque building.

The South Pacific's first Masonic Lodge was built in 1913 and housed the Freemasons that were established in Levuka by Alexander Barrack in 1875.  There is much controversy about the Masonic fraternity in Fiji.  The dominant traditional Christian faiths consider the Masons to be devil-worshippers.   The Masonic Lodge was burned down in the 2000 Fiji coup d'etat.  The Lodge contained priceless historical artifacts and records of Levuka's history dating back to 1875.  The arsonists have yet to be identified and prosecuted.

A stunning anchorage behind the reef

GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE

GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE

Nuku Hiva, Marquesas

8°54.8555'S, 140°13.4389'W

At Anchor
SV WHIRLWIND in Baie Marquesienne: Looks like we are anchored in a desert!

Baie Marquesienne is on the western facing side of the island of Nuku Hiva.  The Trade Winds generally blow from the East or SE; the swell is similar so this anchorage is generally in the lee of the island making the anchorage very calm and surprisingly dry.  Since the water is calm, the clarity is pretty good too and there is a nice spot to snorkel on the N side of the anchorage.  I saw sharks, dolphins, and lots of very colorful fish among large boulders and small bits of coral here and there.  The bay is surrounded by rocky hillsides that appear to be dry with patches of green vegetation where wild goats roam and bleat all day long.  A valley winds up into a steep canyon.

The head of the bay is a rather steep too so landing is not really an option.  We have four people onboard and were fortunate to have two that wanted to stay onboard and two that wanted to explore.  So, we got dropped off on the beach, brought a radio, some water, and headed off into the wild.  There is no marked trail to follow but there are waterways (some dry, some running, some rushing) that we followed up and up and up...until we could not go up any more.  As we travelled up the valley we found an oasis and a waterfall, wild pigs and goats, many different flowering trees and plenty of shade to stay cool.

The head of the Bay is like a steep and rocky dam separating a small (this time of year) estuary from the bay
The vegetation along the dry creek bed getting greener as we go into the valley.
Exploring up the valley from the Bay we found an oasis.
Palm Tree reaching for the sun in the steep and deep desert like canyon.
A small but mighty waterfall found. The picture does not do justice to the fact that we could not go any further up from here.
The explorers: Mike and Maurisa enjoying the Polynesian Paradise and the Desert Oasis
The sunsetting on the rocky outcropping lining the dry creek bed we followed up and down from the Bay.

https://goodnautical.com/french-polynesia/anchorage/anse-uea-bai-marquisienne


SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT

SURFING IN POLYNESIA PAST TO PRESENT

with help from Russell Descheemaeker age 14

Polynesia covers a vast stretch of Pacific Ocean Islands that has a longstanding history of distinctly self-sufficient island people who spoke their own unique language that had a rich seafaring life in common.  What is known as modern day surfing once went by many different names from “Hōrue” (Tahitian for gliding on the waves) to heʻe nalu (Hawaiian for wave sliding)While the word for the activity varied by dialect, early water sliding and gliding dates as far back as the 12th century in Polynesia.  Many believe that this water activity had religious significance and was seen as an important part of ancient Polynesian life and culture before making tis way to Hawaii where it developed and grew substantially.  Formally, surfing was recorded by Joseph Banks aboard the Endeavour during the first journey of  the famous Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1769.  

Joseph banks wrote in Captain Cook's journal

...their chief [sic] amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out as far as the outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness. Sometimes they were carried almost ashore...”

early sufing photo from Hawaii

In Tahiti and Samoa, surfing was a popular activity that was often used as part of warriors' training.  Said warriors would often be seen by early Europeans paddling to surf breaks spending many hours bravely paddling head-on into large surf and riding waves.  Canoes often went with surfing parties and the men would often swap between canoeing and paddling boards.  

In the late 1700's missionary’s spread the word of God through Polynesia.  Much native culture, language, and spirituality was suppressed as a direct result of contact with early missionaries.  (Side Note: The Shark God by Charles Montgomery is an interesting story tracing the history of missionaries in Polynesia)  Wave sliding was deemed a form of Devil worship and was thereby among the suppressed native activities.  However, the sport was so widespread across the Pacific Ocean that it was not fully stamped it out.  In Hawai'i, surfing had become ingrained into the very fabric of Hawaii'an religion and culture that it managed to withstand many tests through time, conflict, and diseases brought by early Europeans.  Some estimates speculate that the native population of the Hawaiian islands was about 800,000 people before European germ contact dessimated the native population to 40,000.  There were surfers among the survivors and the sport continued to entertain, interest, and connect people to the water.  In 1890, a man named Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku was born.  In his lifetime, he changed the sport, restoring its popularity and fanfare.  Duke was a two time gold mettle Olympic swimmer and he loved the water.  His love was contagious.  

Duke is considered one of the Fathers of Surfing.
Duke on a visit to new Zealand to promote surfing and play.

Duke died at the age of 77 on January 22, 1968.  The sport continued to grow and his memory and influence live on. Fast forward to the present and surfing is enjoyed by enthusiasts both recreationally as a relaxed water activity and by olympic athletes as a modern and extreme sport.

France is currently hosting the 2024 Surfing Olympics on the South side of the island of Tahiti, an island in western French Polynesia.  The world famous blue barrel wave called Teahupo'u was so big on Thursday July 29, that the surfing games are on hold until Saturday, Aug 3rd.

A very interesting graphic and description of the wave and how it is uniquely formed by off the mountainous reef fringed reef is here:

https://www.reuters.com/graphics/OLYMPICS-2024/SURFING/akpeoxnyopr/

Looking out from the Teahupu'u Barrel to the mountains of Tahiti

MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG - Erick & Jenny

MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG

Erick & Jenny

Turning a dream into reality, Erick and Jenny are sailing through the South Pacific.

It was a lifelong dream of mine to sail my own boat to beautiful remote places in search of perfect, empty surf breaks, enjoying fishing and other adventures along the way. Around 2007, after my first few years of office work after college, I decided to chase the dream and see if I could make it a reality. Having no prior experience, I took a few sailing lessons to see if it was something I would enjoy and was immediately hooked. Instead of taking a sensible route towards boat ownership, I dove headfirst into buying a derelict project boat and spent the next 10 years fully rebuilding Windsong, a 1975 Downeaster 38 Cutter, into a practically brand new (yet still old) boat.  Having little to no relevant skills, I had to learn everything as I went, which in the end gave me a great set of knowledge and experience concerning the ins and outs of the boat.

Once Windsong was as complete as she could be in late 2019, my partner Jenny and I got married, and within a month we moved aboard and set sail for our honeymoon.  Leaving from our home port, St. Augustine, FL, and bounced our way down the Florida intercoastal waterway to get a feel for life on the move and at anchor. We started our journey with our senior boxer dog, Koda, who took to cruising life with great happiness as she was able to spend all day, every day with us.  After a month or so of Florida coastal cruising, we crossed over to the Bahamas and island hopped for the next few months until Covid shut most of the country down.  We sailed back to the US and spent the next summer between South Carolina and Florida. Unfortunately, Koda was not long for the world at this time, so she was put to rest. While it was a devastating moment for us, it did free us up to sail greater distances.  We went back to the Bahamas and spent a full season sailing from the Abacos all the way down to Great Inagua. From there we crossed directly to Panama on our first long passage across the Caribbean Sea.

WINDSONG setting out to sea.

We spent almost two years in Panama, mostly in Bocas Del Toro on the Caribbean side. With great surfing, protected anchorages, affordable living, and fantastic people; it was hard to not stay forever. However, we decided our sailing days were not done, and wanted to cross the Pacific and experience the remote South Pacific tropics. We geared the boat up a bit more, and once all was ready, we first crossed the Panama Canal and set sail to the Galapagos.  We applied for and received a 1-year visa for French Polynesia, so after 24 days at sea from the Galapagos we arrived in the Marquesas and then took our time going through the French Polynesian islands, savoring each bit along the way.  One year later, we set sail from French Polynesia and with some stops along the way we are now in Fiji, where we will spend the rest of the 2024 cruising season.   We do not know where the winds will take us next, but we are looking forward to exploring these lovely islands for as long as they captivate us.

Erick loves to surf and looks for it where they sail
Jenny with a view

SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸Erick & Jenny - Downeaster Cutter 38′

Erick - WindsongJenny - Windsong


BOATWORK IN PARADISE: RE-SPLICING HALYARDS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF NUKU HIVA

RE-SPLICING HALYARDS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF NUKU HIVA

The offended halyard and splicing tools are all laid out and ready for action.

Following through after our June 9th article:

Chafe: Find It, Fix it, Get Ahead of it

(LINK????)

Cruising offers so many takes on life.  Among them "Boatwork in beautiful places" rings true time and time again aboard SV WHIRLWIND.  Granted this 'grind' is part of the fun of raising our sails, putting miles beneath our keel, watching dolphins surf our bow, sharing sundowners, and sailing for days and days to distant shores.

This week Captain Mike set about to re-splice the portside Spinnaker halyard that had chafed on our Pacific Crossing in May. Once we found the trades en route to French Polynesia we had the opportunity to fly the spinnaker for days on end before the conditions changed and a new sail was required.   It was on one of these sail changes that we noticed that the head of the halyard had been chafing on something at the top of the mast.  While the cover was shot, the core was fine and we had to put that halyard to rest until now.

(Side note: Redundancy to the rescue!  Thankfully, when the conditions called for a spinnaker again, we were still able to raise ours as we have a starboard spinnaker halyard that carried us the rest of the way.)

Getting geared up to Re-splice the halyard where it was damaged, Mike took the opportunity to do a few upgrades that had been on his  'list for sometime'.  We hadn't had a shackle in at the head of the line.  We had been attaching the halyard with a bowline.  Additionally, he put a new eye splice in the bitter end.  See photos below for Re-splicing inspiration.

The cover to the spinnaker halyard chafed through. The inner core is still fine...phew!
The core is removed from the cover.
Splice in progress
A luggage tag on the bitter end for pulling up a new tag line to reeve a new halyard in the future.
Whipping the luggage tag
Et VOILA! As they say in French. Splice is finished and halyard is snapped in place on the foredeck.

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’