Legend and Inspiration Found in the Boatyard
Legend and Inspiration Found
in the Boatyard
Raitea, French Polynesia
By Mike Descheemaeker of SV WHIRLWIND
A lot has changed since yachtsmen and women or personages de yachtie set out to sail the globe in the 1960s. Back then boats were built heavier and running rigging did not always involve winches to facilitate the hauling. Additionally, there were a lot more classic boats still active at that time which meant blocks and tackle, natural fiber lines and sails, full keels, belaying pins and sextants for offshore navigation.
Fast forward to 2024 and we are able to sail the globe more easily with a plethora of go-gadgets and fingle fangits that have made navigating and living onboard more accessible to a broad range of people. Modern yachts are equipped with lithium battery banks, mppt charge controllers, gps, chart plotters, ais transponders and receivers, blue tooth this and blue tooth. While rely on many of these new technologies aboard, I often question how safe it is to depend on them entirely. Furthermore, I also have a passion for classic sailing traditions which compels me to keep an eye on the older ways of doing things because when the gadgets throw a fit and need a good sorting out we need to have a solid backup plan. I practice with the sextant to be able to closely fix our position wherever we are. I love to read about famous sailors of old and how they navigated the high seas. I have long taken inspiration from the use of time tested techniques to the requisite resourcefulness of many sailors before me which is why I got a excited when I saw Bernard Moitessier's last boat, Tamata, at the boatyard recently.
For the last two and a half weeks SV WHIRLWIND has been on the hard at Chantier Naval de Iles Sous le Vent, or CNI, or Leeward Islands Boatyard in Raiatea, French Polynesia doing, among other things, a bottom job. Everyday, there were roosters next door to thank for sounding the alarm at first light to snap to and work the day away. ...And everyday there was SV TAMATA to reminding me of the classic resourcefulness and the spirit of adventure that makes for a truly self sufficient sailor and has inspired me for many years.
One of the first things I saw after the telltale red steel hull were cable clamps on the eyes of the standing rigging: Mechanical fittings, yes indeed, but not yachtsmen fittings. These cable clamps are industrial or agricultural hardware readily available right here in town beside the beer and produce at the magasins (french for 'general store'). Resourceful, practical, locally available, and affordable. Now, I am not suggesting that we replace our fancy yachtsmen rigs with farm hardware, or that cable clamps be recognized as a marine rigging hardware, but I take note that people have gone far in crazy conditions with this type of rigging and made themselves legends in the process. The beauty is in its simplicity and ability to be purchased locally which is something we seem to be able to lose sight of all too easily as modern sailors. With improved shipping times, costs, and import agents readily available to bring in almost anything, anywhere for a fee...self reliance seems to be slipping away. And yet, looking at TAMATA I am reminded of a truly self-reliant sailor and his boat before me.
Moitessier's story is held in awe by all sailors I have raced with. Along the racecourse we often make jokes about going around again because in the first of its kind 1968 nonstop Golden Globe circumnavigation race he made the remarkable decision to bypass the finish line and simply continue sailing nearly 2/3 of the way around again before stopping!?
"I continue without stopovers towards the Pacific islands, because I am happy at sea and perhaps also to save my soul."
It is not only his sailing that has given him legend status in my eyes. He is also known as a minimalist, a sailing mystic, and a pacifist/environmentalist even though he spent time in the French navy during the Indo-Chinese war in Vietnam. His biography, Tamata and the Alliance, tells the tale of a man torn between family, country, and friends in the depths of war. It goes on thru his whole life after leaving Indochina on a leaky Marie-Thérèse in 1952 and crossing the Indian Ocean during monsoon season. This voyage unfortunately came to a abrupt halt on a reef near Mauritius and loss of his boat. He got a job on a freighter and headed back to France to start over. He worked at a medical supply company and wrote his first book (Vagabond des Mers du Sud) about his sailing journeys. With the proceeds from this book he and his wife built a famous ketch, Joshua, named after Slocum. They sailed Joshua from France into the South Pacific hoping to circumnavigate the globe. With time and money running out they turned back east around Cape Horn towards France. Sailing non stop from Tahiti back to France they logged the longest non stop yachting record at that time. The legendary Golden Globe Race during which he continued around the world another 2/3 lap brought him back in Tahiti. Here he became part of a group of locals and sailors resisting atomic tests in the Tuamotus. After battling to windward from the Societies a group of yachts and their crews placed themselves and their boats in the target area to try and halt the French bomb testing. A disruption occurred but a halt was not achieved. Moittesier also tried to minimize development along the Papeete waterfront.
It has been over 50 years since the Golden Globe race brought competitive non-stop solo circumnavigation into focus. It has been over 50 years since Robert Knox Johnson won the race after sailing 312 days nonstop and Bernard Moitessier dodged the finishline to keep on sailing. New races are underway testing new sailors, new vessels, and new technologies. Currently, the Vendee Globe race is underway from Brittany around the southern ocean and back to France. With amazingly modern foiling mono hulls matched with Uber modern electronics, oh so sweet sails and furlers solo sailors are blasting thru the ocean at speeds well over 20 kts for days and weeks on end doing the rounding in 80 or 90 days not 312. After starting in the early morning hours from Vendee after experiencing the massive crowds cheering each sailor as they get underway and head for the start line the sailors say 'adieu' and take off on there very own trip. The brave sailors of the Vendee Globe race are right now pushing themselves and their boats to the limit seeking glory on the main stage but more importantly something inside themselves separate from the podium or press.
What is that something? Something that pushes them. Something that inspires them. Something that humbles them. Something that give them the chance to prevail. Something that gives them a chance to connect with the legendary sailors, adventurers, and explorers that came before them and the ocean all around them. Whether part of a race or not, it takes a leap of faith to believe in yourself, your vessel, and your crew, a whole lot of courage, and a little bit of crazy to hop across an ocean, to watch the land slip below the horizon and not come up ahead for many days. And it takes self reliance to rock on anchor in paradise, to chase our dreams, to push our limits. While so much has changed some things at the core really just have not.
Side Note: I have to say that hauling at CNI was an incredibly pleasant boat yard experience. As in many places in French Polynesia there are free range fowl and they are a crack of dawn wakening force. The rooster alarm clock system is top notch and I’m rarely asleep after 0530 which is great because nothing happens on the bottom of my boat from the rack. From the topsides on the stands I have both mountain and reef surf sunset views that are incredible! There is a Mediterranean food truck in walking distance that dishes up the most incredible gyros this side of Gibraltar! Taputu, Punuarii, Ioane, Jacques and Nathalie went beyond and above to make my time on the hard prosperous for Whirlwind. Having a bunch of French sailors around really raises the bar on standards of workmanship especially in the sailing department. Couple that with the traditional boat building skills and general care of the local folks being honed into modern materials and techniques and you have a very solid platform for taking care of your boat. It’s amazing how many boat fabrication operations there are scattered around the area. CNI uses a hydraulic trailer which always gives me a bit of pause but, even with a 6.7’ draft, I had no issues and never felt concerned. Their jack stands and blocking materials are first class. With a huge array of Lagoons and Outremers in storage or being worked on the front yard looks like a showroom for French catamaran. There is a huge knowledge base for these types of boats here. If you need to haul out and store, get work done, or diy I would not hesitate to give CNI a shout.
contact@cnislv.com
SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’
LAYERS OF LIFE IN THE OCEAN
LAYERS OF LIFE IN THE DEEP SEA
From the Mediterranean to the Caribbean to the Galapagos to the Sea of Cortez to the expansive South Pacific Ocean Posse members have the opportunity to see, and in some cases, swim with a wide range of marine animals. Most marine life is seen at or near the surface in the upper reaches of what is termed the Sunlights Zone or the Epipelagic Zone. Interestingly, though what we see is in the merely upper reaches of the ocean's truly astounding depth. The ocean is unfathomably deep. The ocean is divided into various depth zones, each with its own unique environment, ecosystem, and community of creatures.
For those of us that want to enjoy some rather Zen armchair deep diving check out this video to see just how deep various creatures live and travel.
For those of us that are interested in a more technical deep dive below is a a breakdown of the major depth zones and the creatures that live there:
1. Epipelagic Zone (0 - 200 meters / 0 - 656 feet)
- Also known as: The sunlight zone, because this is where sunlight can penetrate.
- Key features: The warmest of all ocean depth zones, most biodiverse zone, supporting a wide variety of marine life.
- Creatures:
- Fish: Tuna, sharks, sardines, and anchovies.
- Mammals: Dolphins, whales, and seals.
- Invertebrates: Jellyfish, squid, and shrimp.
- Plankton: Phytoplankton (plant-like) and zooplankton (animal-like).
- Coral reefs thrive here, supporting thousands of species of fish, crustaceans, and other organisms.
At the bottom of the Epipelagic Zone starts the thermocline. In this transitional region, the water temperature decreases rapidly with increasing depth. The depth and temperature of the thermocline vary between seasons and years.
2. Mesopelagic Zone (200 - 1000 meters / 656 - 3280 feet)
- Also known as Mid-water zone and The twilight zone, where light begins to fade, but some faint light from the surface still exists.
- Key features: Light is scarce, and pressure increases as depth increases. Due to lack of light, it is from this zone that bioluminescence begins to appear from living creatures.
- Creatures:
- Fish: Lanternfish (known for their bioluminescence), bristle mouth, and hatchetfish.
- Invertebrates: Squid, some types of jellyfish, and deep-sea shrimp.
- Adaptations: Many creatures have bioluminescence to attract prey or mates. They also have large eyes to detect faint light.
Despite bursting with aquatic life, this layer has remained relatively untouched from commercial fishing. Plants do not grow in this zone, so creatures either feed by filtering the water or hunting other creatures. Humans can dive to this layer but need to wear protective suits due to high pressure and lack of heat.
3. Bathypelagic Zone (1000 - 4000 meters / 3280 - 13,123 feet)
- Also known as: The midnight zone, where no natural light penetrates.
- Key features: Total darkness, high pressure, and near-freezing temperatures. This zone makes up 90% of the ocean
- Creatures:
- Fish: Deep-sea fish like the anglerfish, gulper eel, and viperfish.
- Invertebrates: Giant squid, deep-sea jellyfish, and sea cucumbers.
- Mammals: Sperm whales are found to dive down this level in search of food.
- Adaptations: Many animals here are bioluminescent, and have specialized feeding mechanisms to catch scarce prey. Some creatures also have large mouths and extendable stomachs to capture food efficiently.
The pressure in this zone is extreme. For example 4,000 meters (13,100 feet) down, there is over 5850 pounds per square inch.
4. Abyssopelagic Zone (4000 - 6000 meters / 13,123 - 19,685 feet)
- Also known as: The abyss, this zone is one of the deepest, darkest, most remote areas of the ocean.
- Key features: Constant darkness, near-freezing temperatures, immense pressure, and very little food.
- Creatures:
- Fish: Abyssal fish like the abyssal grenadiers.
- Invertebrates: Sea cucumbers, brittle stars, and various types of shrimp.
- Adaptations: Animals here have adapted to survive with minimal energy, some feed on detritus that falls from the upper layers. Many creatures are slow-moving and have a specialized metabolism. Most are transparent and blind.
Both the Bathypelagic Zone and the Abyssopelagic Zone are home to Hydrothermal Vents (2000 - 5000 meters / 6562 - 16,404 feet). These are unique ecosystems powered by the heat from underwater volcanic activity. Many Creatures are uniquely adapted to thrive in, around, and near hydrothermal vents. These creatures include: Tube worms, giant clams, and vent crabs, all rely on chemosynthesis (instead of photosynthesis) to produce energy from the chemicals in the vent water, rather than sunlight.
5. Hadalpelagic Zone (6000 meters to the deepest parts of the ocean, about 11,000 meters / 19,685 - 36,089 feet) is the Mariana Trench off Japan in the Pacific Ocean
The regions that exceed roughly 3.5 miles, or 20,000 feet, are known as the hadal zone. This zone includes the Mariana Trench which is so deep that even Mount Everest would be wholly submerged if placed at its bottom.
- Also known as: The hadal zone, named after the Greek god of the underworld, Hades. named after Hades, Greek god of the underworld. Fitting right, given their abyss-like nature and mystery?
- Key features: Found in deep ocean trenches and the deepest parts of the ocean. Extreme pressure, cold temperatures, and complete darkness.
- Creatures:
- Fish: Few species, such as hadal amphipods, and fish found in the deepest trenches (like the snailfish).
- Invertebrates: Hadel benthic organisms like deep-sea polychaete worms and giant tube worms.
- Adaptations: Creatures here have evolved to withstand extreme pressures and cold. They often have specialized features, like high resistance to pressure, to survive at these depths.
The Mariana Trench was formed by a process known as subduction, where the Pacific Plate is being subducted under the smaller Mariana Plate. The Mariana Trench is about 2,550 kilometers (1,580 miles) long and averages 69 kilometers (43 miles) in width. The trench forms a crescent-shaped scar in the Earth's crust. The deepest diving submarine ever built, the DSV Limiting Factor, can reach a depth of 10,928 meters (36,037 feet). Few humans have in fact touched the bottom of the ocean. In 1960, the Trieste, a bathyscaphe, descended to a depth of 35,800 feet in the Mariana Trench.
Each of these zones has highly specialized creatures that have adapted to the extreme conditions, from the lack of light to the crushing pressures. The deeper you go, the less food and energy are available, so organisms often evolve ways to survive on little, or have unique features to cope with darkness and cold.
TO STOP OR NOT TO STOP IN THE GALAPAGOS?
TO STOP OR NOT TO STOP
IN THE GALAPAGOS?
The Galapagos is undeniably on many a cruisers bucket list. However, depending on ones drive, timeline, and/or cruising budget, the in's and outs of navigating the entry requirements and fees can be anywhere from reasonable and attainable to impractical and impossible. Every year Ocean Posse boats are crossing the Pacific Ocean. Some boats plan a stop in the Galapagos, some boats make an emergency stop, while others still pass by en route to the Southern Pacific Islands further west. Erick and Jennifer from SV WINDSONG are among the fleet that planned their stop, made it happen, and adventured through the Galapagos. Here they share their experience getting the approval to stop, the real fees they incurred, and their adventures during their stay. Please Note: regulations and requirements change often so the exact requirements today may be slightly different. Resources are provided to get up to date information.
ERICK REPORTS:
As sailors begin to prepare their journey from the Americas to the South Pacific, the decision on whether or not to stop at the Galapagos islands looms for many. For most cruisers, the choice boils down to three factors: the activities and attractions in the islands, the cost of entry, and the hassle for cruisers to prepare and visit the islands. When my wife and I began our sail to the South Pacific from Panama in early 2023, we were enticed by the Galapagos and had ultimately decided to make the stop. We had no regrets, in fact, it was one of our favorite places we have ever been to. I hope this article gives readers a better understanding about the positives and negatives concerning the Galapagos stop, or at least give the readers better insight before making their decision.
Ocean Posse members work with Yacht Agents Galapagos: (/yachtagentsgalapagos.com) to handle all of the clearance and entry requirements. Agents are required for visiting yachts, and we were very happy working with Javier and his crew. For details and specific information regarding many of the requirements, costs, activities, restrictions and opportunities for cruising yachts, visit their website.
The very first factor cruisers should consider is why they should or shouldn’t stop in the Galapagos at all. For us, the islands hosted a wide array of incredible experiences that we couldn’t pass up. We were always enticed by the natural wonders of the islands, mostly as animal lovers and the opportunity to come face-to-face with unique and intense creatures. From the very moment you arrive at San Cristobal to clear in, you are greeted by the sea lions frolicking around the anchorage, audible with their distinctive barks. Many will be seen sleeping alone or in groups on unattended local boats, or even on some unprepared cruising yachts. We found them hilarious and endlessly entertaining. Other boats found them to be loud, stinky, obnoxious and more of a hassle. Aside from the sea lions, the islands offer wild experiences encountering sea turtles, giant land tortoises, a variety of unique birds, penguins and more! Our first warning here is: if you are not at all interested in animal encounters, you may not want to consider the Galapagos.
The islands offer a wide array of activities for many different interests and budgets. Many will enjoy world class scuba diving with abundant sea life that is rarely rivaled in the world; others will want to experience as much of the diverse landscapes such as the various volcanoes through hikes and tours, along with the intimate animal encounters wherever you go. A little known secret of the Galapagos islands is the world class surfing to be had for all ability levels. The exceptional and uncrowded surf breaks were the icing on the cake for us and our visit. While cruising between islands in the Galapagos, we experienced the most consistent and exciting offshore fishing on our entire cruise between Florida and Fiji. We had more tuna and mahi mahi than we knew what to do with, and made some life-long friends on other boats by sharing our catch.
When considering the long passage from the Americas to French Polynesia, the Galapagos islands seem like a nice stop along the way, particularly after the often frustrating slog through the doldrums. However, if the activities and abundant wildlife do not sound like something you are seriously interested in discovering, then I would suggest possibly skipping the Galapagos. Many cruisers we have heard of who chose to enter just for a convenient stop, rest and refuel are often the ones who will speak poorly of the experience. Many do not appreciate the frisky sea lions trying to board their vessel, find the cost of entry too much for just a convenient stop, and the entry requirements an extreme hassle.
If the wildlife and activities sound like a great idea to you, the next consideration would be the cost of entry. We knew this was a bucket-list item for us, and we would forever regret sailing past the islands. However, we are a low-budget boat, so we saved and trimmed other expenses to specifically afford the trip to the Galapagos. The fully loaded cost for entry for our vessel with 2 people was $2,277.60, including the Pacific Posse discount. The details of each cost are shown in the invoice image below. Certain costs scale by the amount of people on each boat, and the type of permit you seek for cruising. Please be mindful these costs were for our visit in March 2023, prices are subject to change.
Beyond the cost of entry, the cost of staying in the islands should be considered. We spent our full 30 day stay included in our fees, maximizing our time and value for the cost. By being able to stay on our own boat, we ultimately saved money for a comparable month-long stay by flying in and paying for lodging, food without our own kitchen, travel between islands, etc. Once in the islands, cost of living is not expensive especially compared to places down the line such as French Polynesia. Budget eating is easily accomplished, with delicious $5 USD Ecuadorian lunch specials that typically include a hearty stew, filling entree and fresh juice. Combined with the decently priced fresh produce, one can eat well on a budget with the boat’s galley available. There are also restaurants and bars for every other budget, including some great fine dining.
While in the islands, your activities can be tailored to your budget. We aimed to avoid costly tours as much as we could; opting to entertain ourselves with self-guided hikes, snorkeling from shore, walking to or taking cheap taxis (land and water) to different surf breaks, renting bikes to get around instead of cars, etc. Scuba diving and many of the more extensive tours will cost extra, as well as trips to the remote islands where cruising yachts do not have access.
The final consideration for stopping in the Galapagos for many cruising yachts is the hassle of entry. The requirements for entry are described on Yacht Agents Galapagos’ website, and their agents made the process easy to follow with checklists and frequent communication every step of the way. We can only speak of our experience preparing for the trip from Panama, where not only did Yacht Agents Galapagos make our lives easy, but also Ocean Posse Panama Canal agent Erick Galvez from Centenario Consulting. Erick offered extremely valuable services by arranging for many of the pre-trip requirements including the required bottom cleaning and fumigation certificates, as well as full service exit clearance help with the customs and immigration in Panama City. We had the benefit of beginning preparation many weeks ahead of our departure. If your schedule is very tight from transiting Panama or other ports to the Galapagos, then the hassle of preparation might be too much.
Beyond the preparation, the arrival procedures for the Galapagos islands can seem overwhelming, another potential turn-off for some cruisers. We first arrived at San Cristobal, the traditional check-in port for cruisers, and were greeted by a boat with divers who inspected our hull bottom before we anchored. We had stopped one day out from arrival in calm seas to give our hull one last cleaning, which we found necessary as some small barnacles had grown on our passage from Panama. If the boat bottom has growth, the officials will require you to sail far offshore and have a professional clean your boat before arriving. The divers found our work to be satisfactory, and had us proceed into the anchorage to await the clearance formalities.
After a brief wait at anchor, a boat arrived with an impressive amount of people from various sectors of the government, including our agent’s crew to aid with the process. We have a smallish boat, and have never hosted large gatherings before. The 10 people who came to our boat represented the most people we have ever had on our boat at one time! While overwhelming, we found the process was not overburdensome nor too intrusive. We were well prepared for the process and what would be inspected thanks to the checklists and instructions provided by the yacht agents, and after about 30 minutes we had all of our clearances and were prepared to enjoy the islands.
In summary, each yacht has different aims in what they want from their cruising adventure. If the unique natural environment, animals and world class activities available in the islands appeal to you; consider the cost and potential hassle of entry. If each consideration passes your muster, begin preparation as soon as possible by contacting Yacht Agents Galapagos and get the ball rolling. Like us, you may find that this stop becomes one of the most amazing parts of your entire cruise and an unforgettable experience.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE!
SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸 Erick & Jennifer - Downeaster Cutter 38′
EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS
Emergency Communications
By Rob Murray on SV AVANT
Cruisers spend big dollars on emergency communications, and in most cases never use them. What are some of the options, their pros and cons, and use cases aboard?
EPIRB
EPIRBs (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon(s)) are the gold standard in reliability and durability. Designed by an international consortium of search and rescue agencies in the 1980s, these use the SARSAT (Search And Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) system of satellites (a combination of government operated LEOSAR, GEOSAR, and MEOSAR satellites) combined with a network of 29 MCCs (Mission Control Centers) which communicate with national RCCs (Rescue Coordination Centers).
When you activate your EPIRB, a SARSAT satellite will pick up the signal within minutes and relay it to the MCC nearest the satellite via their Local User Terminal. The MCC will relay the transmission to the national authority’s RCC you have registered your EPIRB with (typically your flag country). Then ‘your’ RCC will relay the information to the RCC responsible for the area you are in and reach out to the emergency contacts registered with your beacon, and the RCC local to your location will begin a rescue operation. This is typically done in less than an hour.
COSPAS-SARSAT System Overview
The downside of EPIRBs is they are one-way communicators – they simply relay your call for help, and do not indicate if it’s a fire, sinking, or medical emergency.
Once purchased, EPIRBs are free to operate (no subscription fee), and the only ongoing cost is periodic replacement of the batteries (depends on unit specifications). Most units are water activated, so they should be stored where rain or spray won’t set them off inadvertently. They are specified to operate for a minimum of 48 hours, but typically will operate for much longer.
EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.
PLB
PLBs (Personal Locator Beacon(s)) are basically EPIRBs in short pants. Smaller and lighter than EPIRBs, they are typically less expensive as well. The broadcast at the same power as EPIRBs (5.0 watts) but have half the battery life (24 hours minimum vs 48 hours with an EPIRB). As with EPIRBs, they will typically operate much longer than the minimum specified.
Similar to EPIRBs, they must be registered with a national authority and have no operating cost beyond periodic battery replacement.
PLBs, like EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.
SEND
SENDs (Satellite Emergency Notification Device(s)) are devices like the InReach, InReach Mini, Garmin InReach Messenger, Zoleo, Spot, Spot X, Yellowbrick, ACR Bivy Stick, Motorola Defy Satellite Link and so on.
These use various commercial satellites or commercial satellite constellations and allow emergency ‘send help’ communications, typically with a dedicated SOS button. They also typically allow two-way communications, like a text or SMS on your phone (some allow this in a self-contained method, some require tethering with a smartphone or tablet). Most operate on the Iridium Satellite Network, which is generally considered to be of the highest quality and offers global coverage. Some use other networks like Globalstar, which does not offer global coverage. They typically operate at about 1.5 watts of transmit power.
Most use the IERCC (International Emergency Response Coordination Center) as their emergency response partner ( WWW.IERCC.COM ). Spot uses Overwatch Rescue ( WWW.OVERWATCHXRESCUE.COM ).
When you press ‘SOS’ on the device, it sends a message via the satellite or satellite constellation to the emergency response partner and they act in a way like the EPIRB response mechanism above, but they call/text you back (if your device allows) as well as calling your emergency contacts.
If the device allows you to send and receive messages you can also initiate a two-way conversation with a shoreside contact for a serious but not life-threatening situation, such as an engine or medical problem.
Most SENDs also support the sending of ‘breadcrumb’ trails while cruising. This is useful to allow shoreside contacts to follow you and leaves a record of your journey should you ‘go dark’ in an emergency that incapacitates you and your crew such that you are unable to activate any of your devices, giving search and rescue teams a starting place to look for you.
Each of these devices, being commercial, requires a subscription. Costs vary.
SENDs are rechargeable and can be used again and again. Battery life varies between units.
There is a good comparative review of many units at ( https://www.treelinereview.com/gearreviews/best-personal-locator-beacons )
DSC Distress Calls
Marine radios (VHF and MF/SSB) can send a DSC (Digital Selective Calling) alert, usually by pressing a red button on the radio. The button usually must be held down for more than 3 seconds to activate it (this to limit the chance of false alerts). This sends a GPS position if your radio contains or is connected to a GPS, plus your MMSI (Marine Mobile Service Identity).
VHF is monitored for these alerts worldwide (withing coverage limits), but coverage via MF/SSB is spotty. (There are propagation issues, and some rescue authorities no longer monitor the frequency. The USCG stopped monitoring the 2182Hz rescue frequency in 2013.)
VHF DSC alerts will be picked up by other vessels within radio range.
This is cost-free.
How do you contact Search and Rescue directly wherever you are?
Each country has SEARCH AND RESCUE NUMBERS. These can be found on the Ocean Posse website for each area we operate in:
https://oceanposse.com/aruba/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/azores/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/bahamas/#emergencies
etc
https://oceanposse.com/italy/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/mexico/#emergencies
Ocean Posse members can substitute the country you are in to get to the right numbers
What about Cell Phone Satellite Communications?
Some newer cell phones from Apple or Google/Pixel have limited SOS satellite connectivity, and Samsung has announced forthcoming satellite capability. Somewhat klugey, they require manual alignment of the device and use the GlobalStar network. Not all devices have the feature, and some are limited by the carrier. The geographic coverage is quite limited. These should be considered back-ups until the technology becomes more mature.
What should you do to get ready for an emergency?
Select and install your chosen devices and set them up appropriately.
For EPIRBs and PLBs, that means registering them with the appropriate national authorities and mounting their storage brackets in suitable locations. Each device has a testing schedule and protocol, so add reminders to your calendar to ensure you keep up with the schedule.
For SEND devices, ensure you have the appropriate subscription in place and the emergency contacts are registered, and the appropriate contacts are in the device’s address book or contact list. If the device tethers with a smart phone or other device, ensure the appropriate software is installed and up to date, and the tethering connection(s) have been tested. Having the tethering connection enabled on multiple devices adds redundancy. Most send devices get firmware updates from the manufacturer, so find out how your device updates and schedule a check every 90 days or so to ensure you’re up to date. Ensure you have a charging/battery replacement protocol in place so that the device is always charged up or, if it has replaceable batteries, you have spares on hand.
For DSC Alerts, make sure your radio(s) have your MMSI programmed in and have access to a reliable GPS signal, and that the radio(s) have a first-class antenna connection (testing with an SWR meter is the best way to ensure this).
Once the hardware and software are established, train your crew in the use of these devices and make sure they know how and when to use them. Preparing a ‘Cheat Sheet’ of simple instructions that can be posted in a handy spot ensures they are not falling back on memory in an emergency.
You have an emergency, what should you do?
If you are faced with a life-threatening situation or there is an imminent threat of danger such as loss of life, potential loss of life, loss of the vessel, potential loss of the vessel, sinking, fire, loss of the rig, or other serious emergency you should activate all of your emergency communications all at once. If you have all three, use the EPIRB, SEND and DSC alert all at the same time.
- The EPIRB will get SAR resources mobilized rapidly on a nation-to-nation basis. It is hands down the most reliable distress signaling mechanism.
- The SEND will typically allow two-way communication on the nature of the emergency and what aid is required.
- The VHF DSC Alert will summon any nearby vessels to your aid.
If you are faced with a potential life-threatening situation or there is the potential for an imminent threat of danger to develop, you should initiate a two-way communication with a shoreside contact to seek advice and/or advise them of the situation (ideally with one of the emergency contacts for your EPIRB or SEND). This could be via any means available, Cell Phone, Starlink (email, teleconference, etc.), SEND, or whatever works. Nearby vessels should be alerted via a normal VHF radio call. This allows them to be aware of what’s going on and be ready to scale up response appropriately as the situation demands.
Posse Perk
Ocean Posse members have access to additional help from other Posse members who may be nearby and from Posse HQ. Members can send a message on the Posse line Ap to reach out for nearby vessels. The Posse Team has assisted in rescue coordination and has connections in many regions with search and rescue and other resources to assist if required. Contact Dietmar at dietmar@oceanposse.com or text him at ( +1 (702) 861-9823 ) to set the team in motion!
MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS
MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious
Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world. Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents. Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe. Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.
There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris). No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales. The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons. Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells. The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'. Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.
As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras. The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy. Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned. In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies. One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned. It's a win-win! Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.
Manta rays live up to 50 years. The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age. Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!). Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years. Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.
Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world. In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom. In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon. In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune. Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.
Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways. Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.). In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine. It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.
Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them. Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them. However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.
According to Mantatrust.org :
Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it.
....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.
Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts. People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.
If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish. Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.
SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS
IN THE END,
WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT
Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific. They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences. Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:
SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600
THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!
NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES
⚠️ NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES ⚠️
Captains and crew aboard cruising vessels are wise to be on constant alert day or night. Night Passages are inherently more dangerous than daytime passages due to a distinct change in how we see and what we do and do not see in the darkness. Passages made between sunset and sunrise have a particular set of best practices that are important to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Please review the following list and consider what you can do to make every night passage safe and thereby fun.
- Before the onset of darkness prep topsides. Make sure everything is well stowed or tied down. If sailing, choose a comfortable and prudent sail configuration.
- Consult all navigational charts along your planned course. Be sure to zoom in to look for any rocks or obstructions that may only be visible on a closer look. Additionally, navigating coastal and offshore waters along the Ocean Posse routes outside of US Waterways mariners will find places where the charts do not match up with the actual contour of the land and sea. Being aware of this as a fact is imperative to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Charts are not always GPS accurate. Use multiple sources of information like radar, OpenCPN, and Sat charts as an additional aid to navigation.
- Set a watch schedule and make sure that everyone on watch understands how to use navigational and safety equipment including AIS.
- If entering or leaving an anchorage, harbor, or port be sure to give a wide berth to headlands.
- Run radar, throughout the night. If possible overlay your radar image over your electronic chart to verify both with one another. If there is a discrepancy, trust the radar over the electronic chart. The radar is also great for looking for squalls.
- Check for other marine traffic. If your vessel is equipped with and AIS make sure everyone on watch knows how to use it to see other vessels that may be in your range or on your course. Note: Not every vessel on the ocean is equipped with AIS so this equipment, while an exceptional safety advancement, does not take the place of visually scanning the area for lights or shapes on the water.
- Know how to read navigational and ship lights at night. There are international rules on light color and placement aboard vessels of different sizes carrying different loads. The lights will show what part of the vessel is in view and the direction of travel.
- Objects at night have come up a lot faster.
Be aware, be cautious, be vigilant, and, most importantly,
be safe so you can enjoy all your sunrises and sunsets out at sea.
by Maurisa Descheemaeker, Ocean Posse editor
DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
DISCOVERING MAKATEA 
THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND
The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon. Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide. Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon. The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day. The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small. On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.
While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift. 40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea. This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited. Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level. Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level. While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs. The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.
Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa. It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt. We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.
On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor. The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain. Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available. With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef. We marveled at the scene. While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea. WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore. It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore. Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring. (Thank you Captain!).
The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores. A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region. A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens. A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.
Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea. The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks. There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.
It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits. Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s. The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s. Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea. The mining industry was quickly established. Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site. Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island. According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory. At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”
And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind. During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated. An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts. People came and people went. Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were. The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart. Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.
A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment. The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished. One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.
While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat. It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast. Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination. Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special. There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking. The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.
Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade. This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018. The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet. We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line. We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim and deeply refreshing cooldown. I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.
The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea. His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well. He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era. Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit. I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.
The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018. Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in. The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future. May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island. So far, it looks good!
Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'
PASSAGE REPORT: SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
SV VIVA SHARES PASSAGE REPORT:
SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON OUTLOOK
SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON
NOVEMBER 1-APRIL 30
NEW OUTLOOK RELEASED
Tropical cyclones, like hurricanes, are known for their powerful winds, heavy rains, and potential to cause significant destruction. Tropical cyclones frequently affect the southern Pacific and can pose serious threats to both public health and infrastructure. All vessels are advised to have a plan of action for the cyclone season.
According to New Zealand's National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) and Metservice, the South Pacific may see either fewer or a normal number of tropical cyclones this season. The cyclone season in the South Pacific starts November 1 and runs until the April 30, with the typical 'peak' of the season being January - March. The outlook that has recently been released, "Southwest Pacific Tropical Cyclone Outlook - October 2024" describes a slower start to the Cyclone season, potentially less cyclone risk overall in the eastern region while potentially elevated risk in the western region. According to the NIWA Outlook, "As of early October 2024, sea surface temperatures across the eastern and central equatorial Pacific Ocean are below average and close to La Niña thresholds." Forecasters are observing more La Niña-like characteristics that tend to reduce risk in the east and elevate risk in the west where warmer water may 'stack up' later in the season. As with many weather outlooks of late there continues to be caution that while there may be less risk in the frequency of tropical storms this season, there is still a risk that those that come may intensify more rapidly or simply be very intense.
For cruisers in French Polynesia South Pacific Posse member Scott on Tartaruga shares:
What is critical to following storms in FP is the location of the MJO. Madden Julien Oscillation. You can research that but when that is over French Poly that is when the highest probability of big storms occur. Per some local Tahiti sailors they almost never have any cyclonic storms outside of MJO events. This last season Fiji announced the MJO forecast and when it would be over FP and boom the storms came. Also note that Fiji is the official metrological organization for these storms. Another important data point is they name their storms very early, mean the wind scale starts at a much lower number....NOAA tracks (the MJO) closely as well. I would educate yourself on how to read the graph. It is a bit strange.
Fiji Meteorological Service Regional Specialized Meteorological Centre Nadi-Tropical Cyclone Centre also just released a forecast on the upcoming tropical Cyclone season. Their predictions are similar.
Stay alert on great weather sites including:
- https://www.met.gov.fj/index.php?page=tcoutlook
- https://niwa.co.nz/climate-and-weather/southwest-pacific-tropical-cyclone-outlook/southwest-pacific-tropical-cyclone-outlook-october-2024