EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS

Emergency Communications

By Rob Murray on SV AVANT

Cruisers spend big dollars on emergency communications, and in most cases never use them. What are some of the options, their pros and cons, and use cases aboard?

EPIRB

EPIRBs (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon(s)) are the gold standard in reliability and durability. Designed by an international consortium of search and rescue agencies in the 1980s, these use the SARSAT (Search And Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) system of satellites (a combination of government operated LEOSAR, GEOSAR, and MEOSAR satellites) combined with a network of 29 MCCs (Mission Control Centers) which communicate with national RCCs (Rescue Coordination Centers).

When you activate your EPIRB, a SARSAT satellite will pick up the signal within minutes and relay it to the MCC nearest the satellite via their Local User Terminal. The MCC will relay the transmission to the national authority’s RCC you have registered your EPIRB with (typically your flag country). Then ‘your’ RCC will relay the information to the RCC responsible for the area you are in and reach out to the emergency contacts registered with your beacon, and the RCC local to your location will begin a rescue operation. This is typically done in less than an hour.

COSPAS-SARSAT System Overview

The downside of EPIRBs is they are one-way communicators – they simply relay your call for help, and do not indicate if it’s a fire, sinking, or medical emergency.

Once purchased, EPIRBs are free to operate (no subscription fee), and the only ongoing cost is periodic replacement of the batteries (depends on unit specifications). Most units are water activated, so they should be stored where rain or spray won’t set them off inadvertently. They are specified to operate for a minimum of 48 hours, but typically will operate for much longer.

EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.

PLB

PLBs (Personal Locator Beacon(s)) are basically EPIRBs in short pants. Smaller and lighter than EPIRBs, they are typically less expensive as well. The broadcast at the same power as EPIRBs (5.0 watts) but have half the battery life (24 hours minimum vs 48 hours with an EPIRB). As with EPIRBs, they will typically operate much longer than the minimum specified.

Similar to EPIRBs, they must be registered with a national authority and have no operating cost beyond periodic battery replacement.

PLBs, like EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.

SEND

SENDs (Satellite Emergency Notification Device(s)) are devices like the InReach, InReach Mini, Garmin InReach Messenger, Zoleo, Spot, Spot X, Yellowbrick, ACR Bivy Stick, Motorola Defy Satellite Link and so on.

These use various commercial satellites or commercial satellite constellations and allow emergency ‘send help’ communications, typically with a dedicated SOS button. They also typically allow two-way communications, like a text or SMS on your phone (some allow this in a self-contained method, some require tethering with a smartphone or tablet). Most operate on the Iridium Satellite Network, which is generally considered to be of the highest quality and offers global coverage. Some use other networks like Globalstar, which does not offer global coverage. They typically operate at about 1.5 watts of transmit power.

Most use the IERCC (International Emergency Response Coordination Center) as their emergency response partner ( WWW.IERCC.COM ). Spot uses Overwatch Rescue ( WWW.OVERWATCHXRESCUE.COM ).

When you press ‘SOS’ on the device, it sends a message via the satellite or satellite constellation to the emergency response partner and they act in a way like the EPIRB response mechanism above, but they call/text you back (if your device allows) as well as calling your emergency contacts.

If the device allows you to send and receive messages you can also initiate a two-way conversation with a shoreside contact for a serious but not life-threatening situation, such as an engine or medical problem.

Most SENDs also support the sending of ‘breadcrumb’ trails while cruising. This is useful to allow shoreside contacts to follow you and leaves a record of your journey should you ‘go dark’ in an emergency that incapacitates you and your crew such that you are unable to activate any of your devices, giving search and rescue teams a starting place to look for you.

Each of these devices, being commercial, requires a subscription. Costs vary.

SENDs are rechargeable and can be used again and again. Battery life varies between units.

There is a good comparative review of many units at ( https://www.treelinereview.com/gearreviews/best-personal-locator-beacons )

DSC Distress Calls

Marine radios (VHF and MF/SSB) can send a DSC (Digital Selective Calling) alert, usually by pressing a red button on the radio. The button usually must be held down for more than 3 seconds to activate it (this to limit the chance of false alerts). This sends a GPS position if your radio contains or is connected to a GPS, plus your MMSI (Marine Mobile Service Identity).

VHF is monitored for these alerts worldwide (withing coverage limits), but coverage via MF/SSB is spotty. (There are propagation issues, and some rescue authorities no longer monitor the frequency. The USCG stopped monitoring the 2182Hz rescue frequency in 2013.)

VHF DSC alerts will be picked up by other vessels within radio range.

This is cost-free.

How do you contact Search and Rescue directly wherever you are?

Each country has SEARCH AND RESCUE NUMBERS.  These can be found on the Ocean Posse website for each area we operate in:

https://oceanposse.com/aruba/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/azores/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/bahamas/#emergencies

etc

https://oceanposse.com/italy/#emergencies

https://oceanposse.com/mexico/#emergencies

Ocean Posse members can substitute the country you are in to get to the right numbers

What about Cell Phone Satellite Communications?

Some newer cell phones from Apple or Google/Pixel have limited SOS satellite connectivity, and Samsung has announced forthcoming satellite capability. Somewhat klugey, they require manual alignment of the device and use the GlobalStar network. Not all devices have the feature, and some are limited by the carrier. The geographic coverage is quite limited. These should be considered back-ups until the technology becomes more mature.

What should you do to get ready for an emergency?

Select and install your chosen devices and set them up appropriately.

For EPIRBs and PLBs, that means registering them with the appropriate national authorities and mounting their storage brackets in suitable locations. Each device has a testing schedule and protocol, so add reminders to your calendar to ensure you keep up with the schedule.

For SEND devices, ensure you have the appropriate subscription in place and the emergency contacts are registered, and the appropriate contacts are in the device’s address book or contact list. If the device tethers with a smart phone or other device, ensure the appropriate software is installed and up to date, and the tethering connection(s) have been tested. Having the tethering connection enabled on multiple devices adds redundancy. Most send devices get firmware updates from the manufacturer, so find out how your device updates and schedule a check every 90 days or so to ensure you’re up to date. Ensure you have a charging/battery replacement protocol in place so that the device is always charged up or, if it has replaceable batteries, you have spares on hand.

For DSC Alerts, make sure your radio(s) have your MMSI programmed in and have access to a reliable GPS signal, and that the radio(s) have a first-class antenna connection (testing with an SWR meter is the best way to ensure this).

Once the hardware and software are established, train your crew in the use of these devices and make sure they know how and when to use them. Preparing a ‘Cheat Sheet’ of simple instructions that can be posted in a handy spot ensures they are not falling back on memory in an emergency.

You have an emergency, what should you do?

If you are faced with a life-threatening situation or there is an imminent threat of danger such as loss of life, potential loss of life, loss of the vessel, potential loss of the vessel, sinking, fire, loss of the rig, or other serious emergency you should activate all of your emergency communications all at once. If you have all three, use the EPIRB, SEND and DSC alert all at the same time.

  1. The EPIRB will get SAR resources mobilized rapidly on a nation-to-nation basis. It is hands down the most reliable distress signaling mechanism.
  2. The SEND will typically allow two-way communication on the nature of the emergency and what aid is required.
  3. The VHF DSC Alert will summon any nearby vessels to your aid.

If you are faced with a potential life-threatening situation or there is the potential for an imminent threat of danger to develop, you should initiate a two-way communication with a shoreside contact to seek advice and/or advise them of the situation (ideally with one of the emergency contacts for your EPIRB or SEND). This could be via any means available, Cell Phone, Starlink (email, teleconference, etc.), SEND, or whatever works. Nearby vessels should be alerted via a normal VHF radio call. This allows them to be aware of what’s going on and be ready to scale up response appropriately as the situation demands.

Posse Perk

Ocean Posse members have access to additional help from other Posse members who may be nearby and from Posse HQ.  Members can send a message on the Posse line Ap to reach out for nearby vessels.  The Posse Team has assisted in rescue coordination and has connections in many regions with search and rescue and other resources to assist if required. Contact Dietmar at  dietmar@oceanposse.com or text him at ( +1 (702) 861-9823 ) to set the team in motion!


MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS

MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious

Each Manta ray can be identified by their unique markings on their underside.  Photo Credit: SV WANDERLUST

Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world.  Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents.   Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe.  Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.

There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris).  No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales.  The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons.  Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells.  The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'.  Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.

Manta in the pass to Tikihau Atoll, French Polynesia. Photo Credit: Planet Ocean

As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras.  The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy.  Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned.  In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies.  One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned.  It's a win-win!  Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.

Manta rays live up to 50 years.  The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age.  Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!).  Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years.  Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.

The manta ray can be seen in Polynesian art and design

Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world.  In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom.  In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon.   In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune.  Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.

Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways.  Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.).  In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine.   It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.

Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them.  Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them.  However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.

Satellite telemetry (tagging) has been used on dozens of marine species. This map highlights the diversity of species tagged in just one study; the Tagging of Pelagic Predators (TOPP) programme. Figure from Block et al., 2011.

According to Mantatrust.org  :

Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it. 

....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.

Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts.  People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.

If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish.  Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.


SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS

IN THE END,

WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT

Dreaming big, reaching for the stars.

Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific.  They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences.  Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:

I wanted a catamaran that could sail upwind, and for my indiscretions, they let me have one.
Sailing Upwind
The destiny we desire—a burden and a curse. Oscar Wilde said it well: ‘When the gods wish to punish us, they answer our prayers.’ But the one who said it best was my father. After he bought me some fancy wheels, he looked at me and said, ‘Hai voluto la bicicletta? Ora pedala.’ ‘Did you want a bicycle? Now pedal.’
Simple, undeniable truth: when the genie grants a wish, it comes with a no-return policy. Deal with the consequences fool—even if it means struggling uphill, cursing every minute of that ride.
Every sailor knows, sailing upwind is a punishment. The ocean couldn’t care less about Wanderlust’s sleek hulls, her spectacular bow buoyancy, or her shiny new gear fitted at great expense. This is what I asked for: a boat that could slice into the wind, lift its stems, and fight forward. And my wishes were granted.
Upwind, the spray lashes like a whip, bodies braced against the bounce, old bones learning a new rhythm, thrumming with each slap against the steep swell. Trust the boat, we say, when everything’s a question mark. Will she hold? Will we hold together? She groans, fighting to remember she was made for this—steel and resin, no heart, no fear, no feelings. But were we made for this? For moving forward when our fragility says to turn back, or at least be anywhere else?
Graceful, it is not. We asked for upwind, and we got upwind—it came with bruises, salt crusts, deep-set exhaustion, and a queasy stomach. Maybe we should have been more precise with the genie about the amount of upwind.
And in the end, when all the wishing is done and the seas have settled, this is the truth we face and the story we tell.
SV WANDERLUST crossing blue to bluer

SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600

 

THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!


NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES

⚠️ NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES ⚠️

SV ARROW Night sailing off the coast of Pacific Mexico.

Captains and crew aboard cruising vessels are wise to be on constant alert day or night.  Night Passages are inherently more dangerous than daytime passages due to a distinct change in how we see and what we do and do not see in the darkness.  Passages made between sunset and sunrise have a particular set of best practices that are important to the safety of ones vessel and crew.  Please review the following list and consider what you can do to make every night passage safe and thereby fun.

  • Before the onset of darkness prep topsides.  Make sure everything is well stowed or tied down.  If sailing, choose a comfortable and prudent sail configuration.
  • Consult all navigational charts along your planned course.  Be sure to zoom in to look for any rocks or obstructions that may only be visible on a closer look.  Additionally, navigating coastal and offshore waters along the Ocean Posse routes outside of US Waterways mariners will find places where the charts  do not match up with the actual contour of the land and sea.  Being aware of this as a fact is imperative to the safety of ones vessel and crew.  Charts are not always GPS accurate. Use multiple sources of information like radar, OpenCPN, and Sat charts as an additional aid to navigation.
  • Set  a watch schedule and make sure that everyone on watch understands how to use navigational and safety equipment including AIS.
  • If entering or leaving an anchorage, harbor, or port be sure to give a wide berth to headlands.  
  • Run radar, throughout the night.  If possible overlay your radar image over your electronic chart to verify both with one another.  If there is a discrepancy, trust the radar over the electronic chart.  The radar is also great for looking for squalls.
  • Check for other marine traffic.  If your vessel is equipped with and AIS make sure everyone on watch knows how to use it to see other vessels that may be in  your range or on your course.  Note: Not every vessel on the ocean is equipped with AIS so this equipment, while an exceptional safety advancement, does not take the place of visually scanning the area for lights or shapes on the water.
  • Know how to read navigational and ship lights at night.  There are international rules on light color and placement aboard vessels of different sizes carrying different loads.  The lights will show what part of the vessel is in view and the direction of travel.
  • Objects at night have come up a lot faster. 
Navigation lights.  Credits: qld.gov.au

 

Be aware, be cautious, be vigilant, and, most importantly,

be safe so you can enjoy all your sunrises and sunsets out at sea. 

 

Sunset at sea off the coast of Mexico

by Maurisa Descheemaeker, Ocean Posse editor


DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

DISCOVERING MAKATEA 🇵🇫 THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL

By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND

Outer Fringing Reef of Makatea

The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia.  The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon.  Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide.  Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon.  The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day.  The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small.  On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.

SV WHIRLWIND on anchor in the lagoon of Rangiroa

While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift.  40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea.  This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited.  Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level.  Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level.  While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs.  The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.

Sunrise at Makatea

Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa.  It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt.  We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.

On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor.  The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain.  Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available.  With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef.  We marveled at the scene.  While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea.  WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore.  It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore.  Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring.  (Thank you Captain!).

The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores.  A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region.  A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens.  A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.

Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea.  The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks.   There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.

Makatea Harbor today

It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits.  Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s.  The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s.  Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea.  The mining industry was quickly established.  Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site.  Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island.  According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory.   At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”

Early 1900s after phosphate extraction began large ships would moor offshore awaiting loads of ore
Makatea harbor in the mid 1900's

The phosphate ore was all hand dug and men were paid by the wheelbarrow load
Eventually, rail lines were laid and rail cars were used to transport material to the harbor

And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of  weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind.  During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated.  An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts.  People came and people went.  Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were.  The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart.  Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.

A jungle vine growing up a concrete wall
The extrated phosphate was in the form of dust that sat in these limestone 'holes'

A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment.  The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished.  One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.

While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat.  It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast.  Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination.  Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special.  There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking.  The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.

Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade.  This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018.  The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet.  We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line.  We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim  and deeply refreshing cooldown.   I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.

Looking across the zipline out to the Ocean from a bridge along the Via Ferrata
Walking along the Via Ferrata
Snorkel Masks make exploring the deep, clear water cave even more amazing!

The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea.  His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well.  He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era.   Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit.  I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.

The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018.  Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in.  The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future.  May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island.  So far, it looks good!

Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.

SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND


PASSAGE REPORT: SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND

SV VIVA SHARES PASSAGE REPORT:

SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND

SV VIVA sailed across the Pacific Ocean earlier in 2024, cruised through French Polynesia, and are continuing west to Fiji before Cyclone season begins in November.  While they are getting closer to their destination, the journey to their destination most recently includes visiting Samoa and sailing onward to Wallis Island.
Pierre and Marie raise the Samoan courtesy flag.
Beach bungalows are called Fale in Samoa.  Fale is the Samoan word for house of any size. Traditionally, a Samoan fale is an oval or circular shape, has a domed, thatched roof held up with wooden poles and has no permanent walls. Roll-down blinds, called pola, surrounded the structure.
Family in Fare on the beach selling coconut products
The Samoan beaches are beautiful.
Marie with local Parish leader
Here SV VIVA shares about their time in Samoa:
Samoa, what a Gem!
Arrived Apia Tue 1 Oct, By 11am we were checked-in!
Samoa, (known until 1997 as Western Samoa), is a country with a population of 207,000 consisting of two main islands Upolu and Savaii.
We spent 6 days driving around on the left side of the road and experiencing Samoa’s rich culture. We crossed to Savaii island (quite the ferry ride) where we spent a night in a beach fale and met cool Australians.  Back on Upolu, we experienced a fire dance show, snorkeled with giant clams, swam at the sea trench, hiked at O Le Pupu National park. Enjoyed seeing Samoa preparing for a major upcoming Commonwealth event (CHOGM) (King Charles is coming!)
On Sunday we decided to experience a Samoan church service, and were invited to their parish afternoon celebration. The experience and people we met were memorable: singing, dancing, eating and our first Kava ceremony! We felt like their special guests for the day.
Unique facts we want to remember about Samoa:
-For cruisers, not much anchorage hopping to be done but lots to see and experience on land.
- Communities are clean, well maintained and well decorated.
- Communities are alive with people, children, animals- dogs, pigs, cows.
- People are friendly, look happy, generous and proud of their environment.
- Schools everywhere, mostly primary
- Churches everywhere, primarily catholic but yet several denominations
- Religion plays a big part in their lives
- Witnessed a traditional Funeral mourning ceremony (thanks Douglas for welcoming us!)
- Witnessed People working on houses, roads, fales - painting, fixing, cleaning- not much sitting around waiting for time to pass
- People do lots with not much - painting rocks and coconut mounds, sculpting painted tree trunk, decorating tires, putting up flags
- No appearance of any danger, crime or corruption, no homeless nor begging
- Did not observe a culture of music playing (vs other Polynesian islands)
- Food tasted good but really fattening- lots of fried stuff, chicken, pork, sausage, curries, chow mein…
Next port - Wallis and Futuna 260 nm away.
SV VIVA just sailed 60 hours from Samoa to the remote island of Wallis Island.
Upon their arrival into the lagoon of Wallis Island SV VIVA shares their passage report from Samoa to Wallis Island:
We’re glad this passage is almost over, 270 nautical miles from Samoa to Wallis island, we had great wind 18-24 kts for 48 hrs so no motoring! But rough sea, 3-4m swells 9sec period which meant we were pinned down to our seats. Difficult to standup, move or do anything… basically pulling g’s for 2 days!
One last hurdle before setting the anchor is going through this small pass to get inside Wallis, we timed it right with the tide slack but…we can’t get in!!! There is a very strong squall hitting us right now and we can’t see ahead of us more than 100 yards, so let’s do the safe thing and wait…
Wallis is a very small island and a French protectorate….we’re already dreaming of baguettes!!  Two weeks to go before we haul out and store Viva in Fiji for the cyclone season.
Marie enjoys a warm beverage on their overnight passage.
At the entrance to the lagoon another screen shows the chart view split with a satellite view of the entrance. Entering the lagoon at slack tide is the safest way in. VIva timed their entrance for slack but had no way to hold off the storm. Instead, they just circled slowly for 30 minutes waiting for squall to pass, in front of Wallis pass.
Redundancy in charts and electronics is important on SV VIVA. Shown here is a split screen with Navionics charts and their radar. Ideally the two display the same contours!
After a rather rocky passage, Pierre is happy to be in the remote and calm lagoon.


SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON OUTLOOK

SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON

NOVEMBER 1-APRIL 30

NEW OUTLOOK RELEASED

Tropical cyclones, like hurricanes, are known for their powerful winds, heavy rains, and potential to cause significant destruction.  Tropical cyclones frequently affect the southern Pacific and can pose serious threats to both public health and infrastructure.  All vessels are advised to have a plan of action for the cyclone season.

Tropical cyclone risk for the 2024-25 season

According to New Zealand's National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) and Metservice, the South Pacific may see either fewer or a normal number of tropical cyclones this season.  The cyclone season in the South Pacific starts November 1 and runs until the April 30, with the typical 'peak' of the season being January - March.   The outlook that has recently been released, "Southwest Pacific Tropical Cyclone Outlook - October 2024" describes a slower start to the Cyclone season, potentially less cyclone risk overall in the eastern region while potentially elevated risk in the western region.  According to the NIWA Outlook, "As of early October 2024, sea surface temperatures across the eastern and central equatorial Pacific Ocean are below average and close to La Niña thresholds."  Forecasters are observing more La Niña-like characteristics that tend to reduce risk in the east and elevate risk in the west where warmer water may 'stack up' later in the season.  As with many weather outlooks of late there continues to be caution that while there may be less risk in the frequency of tropical storms this season, there is still a risk that those that come may intensify more rapidly or simply be very intense.

Number of predicted named tropical cyclones interacting with an island group for the 2024-25 season

For cruisers in French Polynesia South Pacific Posse member Scott on Tartaruga shares:

What is critical to following storms in FP is the location of the MJO. Madden Julien Oscillation. You can research that but when that is over French Poly that is when the highest probability of big storms occur. Per some local Tahiti sailors they almost never have any cyclonic storms outside of MJO events. This last season Fiji announced the MJO forecast and when it would be over FP and boom the storms came. Also note that Fiji is the official metrological organization for these storms. Another important data point is they name their storms very early, mean the wind scale starts at a much lower number....NOAA tracks (the MJO) closely as well. I would educate yourself on how to read the graph. It is a bit strange.

Fiji Meteorological Service Regional Specialized Meteorological Centre Nadi-Tropical Cyclone Centre also just released a forecast on the upcoming tropical Cyclone season.  Their predictions are similar.

Total number of TCs forecasted for the RSMC Nadi-TCC AoR.

Stay alert on great weather sites including:


POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS

POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS

☎️ Free Weekly live calls on Mondays via dedicated LINE.me group

The Ocean Posse has weekly, live, in-season calls dedicated to five different regions where posse members are cruising:

  1. The Pacific Americas Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  2. The Caribbean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  3. The Atlantic Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  4. The Mediterranean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  5. The South Pacific Route (In process now ending November 4th)
an example of in season Line call schedule

During the Weekly calls members join in to:

  1. Share any emergency or emergency relay needed
  2. update one another on location, any issues they may be having, or fun stuff they are doing
  3. Receive weather report from Captain Dietmar
  4. Questions people have for one another.

This weekly communication is a a little bit like a net and fulfills all the same functions.


KEKADA II SAILS INTO NEW ZEALAND FOR THE SUMMER

SV KEKADA II CLEARS INTO NEW ZEALAND 🇳🇿

FOR THE SUMMER

Recently, SV KEKADA II and her crew just finished their third Pacific Crossing and cleared into New Zealand.  I asked Don and Anja if they would share a bit of their experience as there are many members of the Ocean Posse that do not have three Pacific Crossings under their keel...and just might some day.  So what's it take?  Read on to find out.

Kekada II Wallis Island South pacific

Don shared:

We cleared into New Zealand at Opua.  Very quick.  Had done the notice of arrival and inward passenger cards online prior.  Customs entailed answering a few basic questions while they completed the TIE (Temporary Import Entry) (very handy for GST free boat stuff).  They also gave me a biosecurity master's declaration form which I could have also finished prior to arrival but simply forgot to.  Two minute inspection and all finished.  We can work, stay as long as we like, no visas, etc.  Biosecurity was a few minutes later and I had time to finish the declaration.  He checked the fridge but we really did not have anything left.  We showed him some shell necklaces we had been given, all good.  Basically, he accepted our word for everything else.  Our last stop had been Norfolk Island 🇦🇺 (Australia) which probably helped.    

This is our third Pacific crossing so after French Polynesia we did the Samoa, Wallis, Fiji, New Caledonia route for a change.  Previously, we have done the Rarotonga, Niue, Tonga, Fiji, New Caledonia route.  The boat will spend summer in New Zealand.  We will have some home time in Adelaide.  

(Preparing for our passages) I check as many sources as I can re: weather but do my own passage planning.  Since French Polynesia the coffee machine has not had to be moved from the bench top.  (There were) a couple of days where it came close but basically a milk run.  If this is your first time then I suggest Tonga, Minerva Reef, New Zealand even if you backtrack to Tonga from Fiji.  The passages are shorter to one has a better chance of accurate weather predictions than Fiji to New Zealand.

Best advice: Be patient and wait for weather windows.  NO SCHEDULES

SV KEKADA II 🇦🇺 Don & Anja – Leopard 53’


SAILING NOTES FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR OCEAN VOYAGERS

Sailing Notes from the South Pacific for Ocean Voyagers

Geologically young and dramatically, steep, mountainous Marquesan islands jut skyward out of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Tikis and coconut palms look out to sea.
The Ocean Posse is working to bring three posses together: the Atlantic posse, the Panama posse and the Pacific Posse so that we will have better overlap to share information and benefits across the oceans that we sail.  Some have crossed oceans that others are considering crossing.  Here, I will share notes from the South Pacific for people considering sailing to the South Pacific, or for those that just want to vicariously enjoy the cerulean blues, coconut palms, island communities spread throughout the South Pacific.
Presently, SV WHILRWND is underway in the Tuamotus, the second of five island groups in French Polynesian that we have visited since making landfall from Panama in May 2024. The Tuamotus, are sometimes referred to as ‘the dangerous islands’ for all the low lying fringing coral reefs boats can and have run aground on which require careful navigation.  So far, with a person on bow watch, the charts on Navionics, and multiple satellite overlays in OPEN CPN navigating the Tuamotus has been very fun.  There is a timing element one must consider when entering and exiting the atolls, between atolls we are sailing in the open ocean with ocean swell instantly, and within the atolls we are sailing in lagoons with little to no waves navigating coral bommies looking for a calm spot in the sand to drop our anchor.
So many different shades of blue in the Tuamotus atoll lagoons.
Slivers of fringing reef encircle blue lagoons studded with coral heads called "bommies"
Over the past two months, We have had the good fortune to see an abundance of coral and undersea life, more blue hues than I knew existed, and a few of the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales that come annually to the oceanic islands of the South Pacific to breed and calf.  According to a cruising marine biologist friend the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales will be turning back towards their summer feeding grounds off Antarctica in the next few weeks. There is a singular raised atoll in the NW part of the Tuamotus called Makatea where, in settled conditions, one can anchor outside the atoll on the leeward side and possibly see whales this time of year.  Looking at the weather with this possibility in mind we saw a sweet weather window that looked perfect for an adventure: two days of downwind sailing from Fakarava to Makatea in time for the wind to die off for three calm days anchored in the lee of the island, followed by wind from the south to carry us north to Tikihau where there is a manta ray feeding station, and on Rangiroa the second larges atoll in the world.  We have friends coming in on October 11th and as all cruisers know this hard stop commitment presents an added element into every sailing schedule.  Guests visiting the Tuamotus fly into Tahiti and then take an inner island flight to the Tuamotus. Interestingly, many atolls have airports: Fakarava and Rangiroa being the two largest atolls have airports that are more frequented than others. So, (Option 1) we could stay in and around Fakarava until our guests come (very relaxing) or (Option 2) we could go on a little atoll tour and make our way to Rangiroa to meet them (an adventure). We decided that the weather window looked good for an adventure and the plan was sound.
Our 'plan' was to sail from Fakarava for two days, spend a few days on the leeward side of Makatea, then sail to Tikihau for a few days and around to Rangiroa to pick up our friends.
Downwind sailing with the mainsail, mizzen, and spinnaker
We weighed anchor in time to catch the high water slack and sail through the exit in the southern pass.  After exiting the atoll, one is in the ocean immediately and we noted a long slow 1m southerly swell. The conditions were great and we set our kite for a smooth downwind sail.  A few hours in our buddies received an email from a French weather service sending out an alert to all mariners of a significant southern swell developing and moving north into the Tuamotus. We pulled up the weather and, sure enough, although the wind was still forecast to be settled in a few days around Makatea the swell was going to be too big to comfortably anchor on the outside of the atoll much less enter through the pass of an atoll.  We decided to reroute to Tikihau and save Makatea for another time.
There is a 'plan' and then there is the reality that unfolds when new information comes to light, conditions change, and the route must change as well.
We arrived outside Tikihau in the night, hove to outside the entrance, and waited for the low slack at first light. Upon arriving in Tikihau the weather forecast changed multiple times over the course of the day. In the southern hemisphere winter has just turned to spring and now this northern hemisphere sailor can say the spring weather down here is as fickle as one might expect in the spring: changing so often it’s hard to hang you hat on much beyond the immediate conditions. There are significant blows coming in and out of the forecast and still a large swell coming with mixed forecasts on how long it will affect this part of the Tuamotus. Based on these changing forecasts and the expected conditions in the passes when the swell arrives we have now determined that today, seems to be the best day in the next ten (when our friends are to arrive) to make our way from Tikihau to Rangiroa, so we are underway once more.
No matter the ocean, the weather calls the shots.  So far, sailing in the South Pacific has been nothing short of a dynamic adventure demanding that we constantly keep an eye on the weather and a sharp lookout over the bow.  While on lookout this morning we saw manta rays entering the Pass into Tihihau and dolphins surfing our bow as we set out into the ocean to Rangiroa...and we still could see a whale.
Sailing to Rangiroa: the second largest atoll in the world.
For cruisers looking to the South Pacific for adventure; crossing the ocean to get here is an epic adventure in and of itself.  Most people set sail for the South Pacific from points west in the late winter/early spring.  Presently, many cruisers are beginning to rub their palms together, eyeing up routes and weather patterns, running through their inventory of parts and spares, making lists, reading about storm tactics and high sea debacles, and/or taking care of a host or pre-departure maintenance or upgrades.  Shaking down our fears can also be a big part of mentally preparing for a ocean voyage.  Some, like my friend, may be wondering, "What were your scariest moments on the passage (to French Polynesia)?"
Taking a panoramic shot aboard SV WHIRLWIND out at sea while rocking and rolling.  Fear can feel like this: exaggerated and out of control.
In jest, my husband and our captain said, "the day we realized we didn't bring enough rum."  That was more sad really, but nothing we can't get over.
More sincerely, he said, "The day the autohelm and went a little wacky and (he) had visions of the rudder breaking loose."  Terrifying!  Indeed, one of our worst nightmares.  That 'wackiness' was rectified at sea with no major drama.  And we installed a back up autohelm before leaving Panama Bay.
In my most sincere and more lengthy response, I shared:  We spent 30 days at sea: they were both utterly glorious and unexpectedly difficult at times. A huge realization for me was that the infamous Coconut Milk Run starts west of French Polynesia….or maybe in French Polynesia…or maybe to the east...it’s the Eden out there somewhere, the Fair Winds and the Following Seas of every sailors dreams.  As we set out to cross the Pacific we actually thought we were on the Coconut Milk Run from Panama to the Marquesas.  So when we got out there and spent far longer in confused seas than we ever imagined could be part of a 'Coconut Milk Run' we joked, desperately at times while tossing chaotically in a confusion of seas and open sky, saying “this is coconut milk!? I imagined something sweet and smooth not a frothy mess" Or, "If this is coconut milk, I’ll stick to beer (or rum)!” Crossing the ocean can easily be romanticized…in my experience it is with the adventure ahead of me or behind me that I can romanticize really well about it.  When I am in it, it is usually....well...a Whirlwind of calm joy, uncertainty, chaos, thrill, or somehwere in between.
In preparation, I tried hard to be realistic, to plan for the worst and hope for the best, to be ready for the voyage and not simply long for the destination, to pack the boat full of provisions and spares, to check everything twice sometime thrice.  While the dream to cross the Pacific was years in the making for us and I had years to consider the magnitude of this voyage, still he scariest moment for me was somewhere SW of the Galapagos when I realized how far offshore we were, how much further we had to go, and that there would be no real rest until we were in French Polynesia.  It was nighttime and I woke out of a sleep to my husband, Mike, and our 13 year old son, Russell, reefing the main in sloppy seas and having a heck of a time.  I hopped up to help and the sky was SO big and SO black, spotted more stars than I had ever seen.  I could not immediately see Mike or Russell but somehow the wavetops were illuminated, so swift and heaving.  I was struck with a desperate feeling knowing there was no turning back, still so far to go, and only us to make that happen.  In that moment reefing the main felt goliath, possibly insurmountable, and I had to have a serious talk with myself!  I had to take the task at hand for just the task at hand, not the hundreds of miles we had come or the thousands of miles to go.  I had to just focus and reef the main.  'Stay calm.  Stay Steady.  We got this,' I reminded myself.  Finally, we prevailed.  For whatever reasons, reefing was more than difficult that night and with some mighty cursing and some steady determination we did it.  And then we just moved right along.  The boat settled nicely due to the reef, mind you the seas did not miraculously settle, but the motion certainly improved.  The boys went back on watch, and I to easily slipped back into bed.  For whatever reason, that was my scariest moment.  Basically, when the breadth of what we had set out to do actually hit me like it never quite had before - we were in the middle of the ocean and I felt like an absolute imbecile for only then realizing what I had gotten myself and my family into?!  I thought I had thought it through but in that moment I did not think I had.  I felt enormously overwhelmed by how easily we could get swallowed up.  I also felt that there was no turning back.  (Now in hindsight I know that is not entirely true, but it was certainly how I felt and continuing west was certainly the best option.)  Still, I felt I was stuck and incomprehensibly vulnerable which was truly scary.  The other side of these completely humbling feelings was how absolutely beautiful the stars, the ocean, and the sky were.  Steering away from the overwhelm of fear I definitely made a point to take comfort in the grandeur and holdfast.  It is wild when terrifying can also be infinitely impressive.  There is no doubt the ocean is mighty!  The colors and the expansiveness are nothing short of awe-inspiring making the trials of the adventures worth it....especially when I am on the other side of that particular part of this adventure and can romanticize all about it.
Romantic and Real: Tuamotu sunset.
Lagoon sailing can be exceptionally pleasant.

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND