Legend and Inspiration Found in the Boatyard

Legend and Inspiration Found

in the Boatyard

Raitea, French Polynesia

By Mike Descheemaeker of SV WHIRLWIND

A lot has changed since yachtsmen and women or personages de yachtie set out to sail the globe in the 1960s. Back then boats were built heavier and running rigging did not always involve winches to facilitate the hauling.  Additionally, there were a lot more classic boats still active at that time which meant blocks and tackle, natural fiber lines and sails, full keels, belaying pins and sextants for offshore navigation.
Fast forward to 2024 and we are able to sail the globe more easily with a plethora of go-gadgets and fingle fangits that have made navigating and living onboard more accessible to a broad range of people.  Modern yachts are equipped with lithium battery banks, mppt charge controllers, gps, chart plotters, ais transponders and receivers, blue tooth this and blue tooth.  While rely on many of these new technologies aboard, I often question how safe it is to depend on them entirely.  Furthermore, I also have a passion for classic sailing traditions which compels me to keep an eye on the older ways of doing things because when the gadgets throw a fit and need a good sorting out we need to have a solid backup plan.  I practice with the sextant to be able to closely fix our position wherever we are.  I love to read about famous sailors of old and how they navigated the high seas. I have long taken inspiration from the use of time tested techniques to the requisite resourcefulness of many sailors before me which is why I got a excited when I saw Bernard Moitessier's last boat, Tamata, at the boatyard recently.

For the last two and a half weeks SV WHIRLWIND has been on the hard at Chantier Naval de Iles Sous le Vent, or CNI, or Leeward Islands Boatyard in Raiatea, French Polynesia doing, among other things, a bottom job.  Everyday, there were roosters next door to thank for sounding the alarm at first light to snap to and work the day away.  ...And everyday there was SV TAMATA to reminding me of the classic resourcefulness and the spirit of adventure that makes for a truly self sufficient sailor and has inspired me for many years.

Bernard Moitessier's boat, SV TAMATA, on the hard at CNI Boatyard in Raitea, French Polynesia.

One of the first things I saw after the telltale red steel hull were cable clamps on the eyes of the standing rigging: Mechanical fittings, yes indeed, but not yachtsmen fittings.  These cable clamps are industrial or agricultural hardware readily available right here in town beside the beer and produce at the magasins (french for 'general store').  Resourceful, practical, locally available, and affordable.  Now, I am not suggesting that we replace our fancy yachtsmen rigs with farm hardware, or that cable clamps be recognized as a marine rigging hardware, but I take note that people  have gone far in crazy conditions with this type of rigging and made themselves legends in the process. The beauty is in its simplicity and ability to be purchased locally which is something we seem to be able to lose sight of all too easily as modern sailors.  With improved shipping times, costs, and import agents readily available to bring in almost anything, anywhere for a fee...self reliance seems to be slipping away.  And yet, looking at TAMATA I am reminded of a truly self-reliant sailor and his boat before me.

Moitessier's story is held in awe by all sailors I have raced with.  Along the racecourse we often make jokes about going around again because in the first of its kind 1968 nonstop Golden Globe circumnavigation race he made the remarkable decision to bypass the finish line and simply continue sailing nearly 2/3 of the way around again before stopping!?

"I continue without stopovers towards the Pacific islands, because I am happy at sea and perhaps also to save my soul."

The Long Route on Joshua.

It is not only his sailing that has given him legend status in my eyes.  He is also known as a minimalist, a sailing mystic, and a pacifist/environmentalist even though he spent time in the French navy during the Indo-Chinese war in Vietnam.  His biography, Tamata and the Alliance, tells the tale of a man torn between family, country, and friends in the depths of war.  It goes on thru his whole life after leaving Indochina on a leaky Marie-Thérèse in 1952 and crossing the Indian Ocean during monsoon season.  This voyage unfortunately came to a abrupt halt on a reef near Mauritius and loss of his boat. He got a job on a freighter and headed back to France to start over.  He worked at a medical supply company and wrote his first book (Vagabond des Mers du Sud) about his sailing journeys. With the proceeds from this book he and his wife built a famous ketch, Joshua, named after Slocum. They sailed Joshua from France into the South Pacific hoping to circumnavigate the globe.  With time and money running out they turned back east around Cape Horn towards France.  Sailing non stop from Tahiti back to France they logged the longest non stop yachting record at that time.  The legendary Golden Globe Race during which he continued around the world  another 2/3 lap brought him back in Tahiti.  Here he became part of a group of locals and sailors resisting atomic tests in the Tuamotus.  After battling to windward from the Societies a group of yachts and their crews placed themselves and their boats in the target area to try and halt the French bomb testing.  A disruption occurred but a halt was not achieved.  Moittesier also tried to minimize development along the Papeete waterfront.

It has been over 50 years since the Golden Globe race brought competitive non-stop solo circumnavigation into focus.  It has been over 50 years since Robert Knox Johnson won the race after sailing 312 days nonstop and Bernard Moitessier dodged the finishline to keep on sailing.  New races are underway testing new sailors, new vessels, and new technologies.  Currently, the Vendee Globe race is underway from Brittany around the southern ocean and back to France.  With amazingly modern foiling mono hulls matched with Uber modern electronics, oh so sweet sails and furlers solo sailors are blasting thru the ocean at speeds well over 20 kts for days and weeks on end doing the rounding in 80 or 90 days not 312.  After starting in the early morning hours from Vendee after experiencing the massive crowds cheering each sailor as they get underway and head for the start line the sailors say 'adieu' and take off on there very own trip.  The brave sailors of the Vendee Globe race are right now pushing themselves and their boats to the limit seeking glory on the main stage but more importantly something inside themselves separate from the podium or press.

What is that something?  Something that pushes them.  Something that inspires them.  Something that humbles them.  Something that give them the chance to prevail.  Something that gives them a chance to connect with the legendary  sailors, adventurers, and explorers that came before them and the ocean all around them.  Whether part of a race or not, it takes a leap of faith to believe in yourself, your vessel, and your crew, a whole lot of courage, and a little bit of crazy to hop across an ocean, to watch the land slip below the horizon and not come up ahead for many days.  And it takes self reliance to rock on anchor in paradise, to chase our dreams, to push our limits.  While so much has changed some things at the core really just have not.

Side Note: I have to say that hauling at CNI was an incredibly pleasant boat yard experience.  As in many places in French Polynesia there are free range fowl and they are a crack of dawn wakening force.  The rooster alarm clock system is top notch and I’m rarely asleep after 0530 which is great because nothing happens on the bottom of my boat from the rack.  From the topsides on the stands I have both mountain and reef surf sunset views that are incredible!  There is a Mediterranean food truck in walking distance that dishes up the most incredible gyros this side of Gibraltar!  Taputu, Punuarii, Ioane, Jacques and Nathalie went beyond and above to make my time on the hard prosperous for Whirlwind. Having a bunch of French sailors around really raises the bar on standards of workmanship especially in the sailing department. Couple that with the traditional boat building skills and general care of the local folks being honed into modern materials and techniques and you have a very solid platform for taking care of your boat. It’s amazing how many boat fabrication operations there are scattered around the area. CNI uses a hydraulic trailer which always gives me a bit of pause but, even with a 6.7’ draft, I had no issues and never felt concerned. Their jack stands and blocking materials are first class. With a huge array of Lagoons and Outremers in storage or being worked on the front yard looks like a showroom for French catamaran.  There is a huge knowledge base for these types of boats here. If you need to haul out and store, get work done, or diy I would not hesitate to give CNI a shout.
contact@cnislv.com

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND


ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND PART 1

ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND

PART 1: ISLA TABOGA

Cruisers visiting Panama find adventures on land and out on the water.  Over the years Posse members have collectively seen so much of what the country has to offer.  There are so many great adventures to chose from.  A quick list includes: Isla Taboga, the mountain towns of Boquette and El Valle, the Canal Museum in Casco Viejo, the sloth sanctuary in the Gamboa Reserve, cruising the Coiba group, cruising the Perlas Islands, walking up Ancon hill overlooking Panama City, touring the Miraflores Lochs....and many many more.  Part 1 of ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND will explore the interesting history and adventure opportunities at Isla Taboga, Panama.

image
Town of Taboga as seen from the head of the Ferry Dock.

Rich in historical significance and boasting a relaxed getaway charm, Isla Taboga is an excellent place to visit near Panama City.  The island is so close to the city that there are multiple daily 30 minute ferries that bring people to and from the island for $17 round trip.  People visit to enjoy the beach, restaurants, hotels, multiple hiking trails, and the history.

Panama Posse parrtty HQ
Anchorage can be found on either side of Isla Morro.

Isla Taboga was discovered in 1513 by the Spanish explorer Vasco Nunez de Balboa.  Many subsequent explorers who crossed the Atlantic from Seville, Spain would disembark in what is now Portobello on the Caribbean coast of Panama, cross the isthmus of Panama on foot or by horseback until they reached Panama City.  They would then board canoes to the galleons anchored off Taboga.  Deep waters with good holding surround the island and made it an excellent place for large vessels to find safe harbor from which to explore and conquer new lands near and far.

This painting from 1850 shows Ships of old on Anchor in the deep waters off Taboga.

Like the ships of old the same anchorage is used today by modern transporters awaiting passage through the Panama Canal.

Going back 500 years again: By 1524 Father Hernando de Luque founded a church in the center of town and christened the town San Pedro.  The Church, while noted for being one of the oldest churches in the Western Hemisphere, is still standing and well cared for.

A view inside the church.
The Church faces a small square overlooking the harbor.

In the late 1500’s the island was renamed Taboga.  “Aboga” means “abundant fish” in the indigenous language of Taboga’s early inhabitants.  In the 1500’s many of Taboga’s inhabitants on record were slaves from Venezuela and Nicaragua.  The first Catholic saint of the Americas is said to have been born on the Island.  There is a cross in her honor on a hilltop with a beautiful view.  Today many people think of Taboga as the ”Island of Flowers” for all the flowers cascading over walls (from the most well maintained to the ancient, crumbling ones) and growing in the jungle.  The island is 12 square km; town itself, like many on the nearby islands, is quite densely packed and surrounded by wild jungle.

The island has a network of walking paths.

Today, one can travel along all the residential footpaths or in golf carts on the narrow streets in an afternoon and could spend days and days meandering through the jungle in search of treasure, wildlife, or relics of the past.

Treasure: Early prosperity turned Taboga into a target for piracy.  In the 1600’s pirates became a formidable force in the area and Taboga was no stranger to their presence and pillaging.  Infamous Pirate Henry Morgan among others is said to have sacked the island and used it as a base while attempting to sack Panama City and other nearby islands.  Legend has it that there are ashes of pirates inside the walls of the church and treasures buried on the island.  One can walk to a monument called Los Tres Cruzes to see the three graves of pirates that attempted to disturb the peace on Taboga.  They lost their lives in the fight and have remained as a symbol to all who visit.  Taboga is not to be sacked ever again.

Wildlife: Taboga is a volcanic Island that rises above the sea with a dense and healthy tropical forest.  While hiking through the forest we were treated to many (74) poison dart frog sightings, the smell of flowers, the sound of rain paddling the canopy overhead, the refreshing cool of mist hanging in the air slowly dripping down to the dark brown forest floor.  On the highest peak we enjoyed being at eye level with the largest and smallest of birds, from the black headed vultures to bright green teeny-tiny hummingbirds.

Relics of the past:  In the 1840’s the Pacific Mail and Steamship Company set up a shipping company on Taboga thinking they would move mail and produce throughout the region.  They ended up moving gold and gold diggers to and from California during the Gold Rush.  There are remnants of their shipyard operation on Isla Morro which is connected to Taboga by a sand spit.  In 1885 a medical center was built on the island while the French were making their attempt at the Panama Canal construction.  Many workers would take ill and go to Tabogo for care and quarantine.  While convalescing on Taboga, French painter Paul Gauguin, painted a scene of the bay that is appreciated to this day.  Additionally, the US military build a base on the island during WWII.  A bunker was built on the highest point with a 360 degree view that today offers a welcome breeze and incredible views of Taboga Bay, Panama City, the perlas Islands, and ships awaiting Canal transit.

An large, old anchor sits on Isla Morro with connecting sandspit and Isla Taboga in the background.
Poison Dart Frogs are everywhere in the jungle on Isla Taboga
Colorful mushrooms are also abundant on the forest floor.
So many ships on anchor between Isla Taboga and Panama City.

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE LEGENDS AND HISTORY OF TABOGA SEE THIS LINK: http://cerritotropicalpanama.com/pdf/1Piratetalesandtruths.pdf


Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish Across the Oceans

 Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish

Across the Oceans

People living coastally or on islands are deeply connected to the ocean for their sustenance.  Eating raw fish is common across many cultures around the globe, each with its own unique traditions and methods for preparing and enjoying this delicacy. Here are several different ways raw fish is eaten as a main dish across the Oceans that the Ocean Posse cruises:

1. Ceviche (Latin America)

Peruvian ceviche

Ceviche has it’s roots in the northwestern region of South America that are now
known as Ecuador and Peru.  Overtime the dish has spread throughout Central America with each country, each region, each family adding their own touch of individuality.  Ceviche is the result of fish (often Mahi mahi, snapper, or corvina) and/or other seafood (for example shrimp, conch, or Octopus) being submerged in salt and lime juice.  The chemical process that occurs is similar to fish getting ‘cooked’ in which the flesh turns opaque and gets firm…although the fish is not truly cooked.

The additional ingredients, the presentation, the size, and the accompaniments vary greatly depending on where you are.  For instance, along the Gold Coast in Mexico ceviche is commonly a mix of fish or mixed seafood with tomatoes, onions, jalapenos, and cilantro served on a large platter with a basket overflowing with various large corn disks called tostados.  Further south, in Panama, ceviche is commonly served in small individual servings with diced onions and lots of juice and a small singular packet of crackers.  Further south still to Peru, the birthplace of ceviche, raw fish is marinated in lime juice, as well as thinly sliced onion. The dish is served with sweet potato slices, small portions of toasted corn, and plantain chips.  They are all DELICIOUS ….just different….and sampling ceviche along the route is highly recommended.

2. Poisson Cru (Polynesian and South Pacific Islands)

Poisson Cru

The name poisson cru literally translates to "raw fish" in French.  For many centuries native Polynesians and people of the South Pacific Islands were harvesting reef fish and pelagic fish and coconuts as a mainstay of their diet.  The preparation was once as simple as  pouring fresh squeezed coconut milk over raw fish and has evolved to include lime juice after the Europeans introduced citron (limes).  Poisson Cru has a distinctive flavor and texture that is generally more mild that ceviche. While it is sometimes compared to ceviche due to the use of raw fish and citrus juice, poisson cru has its own unique preparation and cultural significance.  Poisson Cru is often served with or over rice or taro with cucumbers and/or tomatoes.  Seasonal and regional twists include adding fruits like mango or papaya or other vegetables like carrots or avocados.  Salt and Pepper may be added for flavor.

Poisson Cru is made at home, during celebrations, and often served at communal gatherings or feasts.  It is considered a symbol of hospitality and represents a longstanding connection to the sea.  The preparation and sharing of poisson cru are deeply embedded in the social fabric of Polynesian life.

Overall, poisson cru is more mild and creamy while ceviche is more tangy and snappy.  Both are fresh, crunchy, and scrumptious.

3. Poke (Hawaiian Islands)

Hawaiian Poke was once a very simple dish made of locally sources ingredients: fish, salt, and seaweed from the sea, seasoned with roasted tree nuts.

The word 'poke' (like 'okay') was a Hawaiian word that meant 'to cut crosswise into pieces'.  The dish that has taken on the name Poke is one that stems from one of the staple foods of the early Polynesian people of Hawaii.  The early Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands lived off the sea.  It is said they often cut crosswise and salted raw reef fish cutoffs and seasoned this with seaweed and roasted kokui nuts.  Over time, after the arrival of people from the continents to the east and the west, this staple food began to evolve and take on tastes and flavors from both sides of the ocean.  For example in the late 19th century many Japanese workers immigrated to Hawaii as sugar and pineapple plantation laborers.  Instead of using salt and seaweed to season their raw fish they used shoyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil.  They would eat this fish with white rice.  In this way, some say that the Japanese immigrants also introduced the rice base to the modern day Poke.  Westerners are said to have introduces spices, onions, and chili peppers.  Poke of today is a serious fusion of flavor traditions that appeals to the culinary tastes across many cultures.  While the dish has evolved greatly and spread far from Hawaii, Poke is still known as an adaptable delicious Hawaiian dish.  Poke can be savory and sweet, spicy or mild.  The fish is still marinated in a salty medium with seaweed is often served in bowl over rice with an added assortment of fresh, thinly cut colorful vegetables, fruit, and roasted nuts.

4. Pickled Herring (Northern Europe)

Pickled herring has long been a staple food in Northern Europe and people on the Mediterranean Sea

Pickling as a preservation method for fish has been around for over two millennia, and herring, being one of the most abundant fish in European waters, was an ideal candidate for pickling. The process of pickling, which involves immersing fish in a brine or vinegar solution, allowed people to preserve the catch for long periods, particularly in the colder months when fresh fish was scarce.

The earliest records of pickled fish date back to the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks were known to use vinegar and salt to preserve fish, and Roman texts suggest that pickled herring was a common foodstuff. The Romans also had a type of fermented fish sauce called garum, which was made from fish, including herring.  During the medieval period, pickled herring became essential for the European diet, especially in coastal regions and inland areas with limited access to fresh fish. The Hanseatic League, a medieval trade network of merchants in Northern Europe, played a key role in the spread of pickled herring trade, especially from the Netherlands, where herring fishing was a major industry.

Herring fishing and pickling became especially prominent in the Netherlands in the 15th and 16 century during the Dutch Golden Age.  Herring from the North Sea was abundant, and the Dutch perfected the art of preserving it by salting and pickling to export it to cities across Europe.  In the 1400s, Dutch fishermen discovered a method to "cure" herring by packing it in barrels with salt and vinegar, effectively preserving it for long voyages or storage. The Dutch developed the technique of "zout-haring" (salt herring), which involved using the fish's own brine and salt to preserve it.  The "New" Herring: The practice of pickling herring became so widespread that the beginning of each fishing season was marked by the arrival of the new herring, which was considered a delicacy. This was especially true in places like Amsterdam, where herring was not only a common food for the lower classes but also a symbol of prosperity and trade.

Over time, pickled herring became deeply ingrained in the culinary traditions of many Northern European cultures. It was particularly important in the Nordic countries, the Baltic states, and Germany.  In countries like Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, pickled herring (known as sill in Swedish) is a beloved part of the traditional holiday table. It is often served during holidays such as Midsummer, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Swedish pickled herring, or inlagd sill, is often flavored with ingredients like mustard, onions, and dill.  In Germany, herring is often served with onions, apples, and mustard, and in the Netherlands, it is commonly served raw or marinated and eaten with rye bread or on a bun. Dutch herring, also known as "Hollandse Nieuwe," is particularly famous. It is a type of herring that is eaten shortly after being caught, before it has been heavily salted or pickled. It is usually served raw and dipped in onions or eaten straight from the fishmonger's stall.

By the 19th century, with the development of refrigeration and other preservation techniques, the necessity of pickling fish for preservation decreased. However, pickled herring continued to be popular as a flavorful and nostalgic food.  European immigrants, particularly from Scandinavia, Germany, and the Netherlands, brought the tradition of eating pickled herring to America, especially to cities with large immigrant populations like New York. In the U.S., pickled herring became a common dish in Jewish delicatessens and is a part of Eastern European Jewish cuisine (particularly among Ashkenazi Jews), where it is often served as an appetizer with rye bread.  In the 20th century, the canning of pickled herring became widespread, making it more accessible around the world. Canned herring became popular not just as a snack but as a component of many ready-to-eat meals.

Today, pickled herring continues to be enjoyed in many parts of the world, from Scandinavia to Germany, and it remains an important part of traditional meals. Modern variations of pickled herring can be found in many supermarkets and gourmet shops, where it may come in different flavors, including spicy, sweet, or mustard-infused varieties.

Pickled herring has evolved from an essential preservation method to a beloved culinary tradition in many Northern European and Scandinavian cultures. Its history reflects the ingenuity of people in maritime regions, who turned abundant fish into a flavorful and lasting foodstuff. Whether served raw, marinated, or in sauces, pickled herring remains a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, offering a glimpse into the cultural importance of preserving food for long-term enjoyment.

Eating raw fish is a global practice, with each culture putting its unique spin on how the fish is prepared, seasoned, and served. Whether marinated in citrus, salted and dried, or simply sliced fresh, raw fish continues to be an essential and cherished part of culinary traditions worldwide.


SV WANDERLUST MUSINGS

IN THE END,

WE ALL GET WHAT WE WANT

Dreaming big, reaching for the stars.

Ocean Posse members Fabio and Kristin Potenti are sailing on SV WANDERLUST in the South Pacific.  They maintain a Facebook Page: Harbors Unknown, and a youtube channel to document and share their musings and experiences.  Below Fabio shares his most recent musings with the Ocean Posse:

I wanted a catamaran that could sail upwind, and for my indiscretions, they let me have one.
Sailing Upwind
The destiny we desire—a burden and a curse. Oscar Wilde said it well: ‘When the gods wish to punish us, they answer our prayers.’ But the one who said it best was my father. After he bought me some fancy wheels, he looked at me and said, ‘Hai voluto la bicicletta? Ora pedala.’ ‘Did you want a bicycle? Now pedal.’
Simple, undeniable truth: when the genie grants a wish, it comes with a no-return policy. Deal with the consequences fool—even if it means struggling uphill, cursing every minute of that ride.
Every sailor knows, sailing upwind is a punishment. The ocean couldn’t care less about Wanderlust’s sleek hulls, her spectacular bow buoyancy, or her shiny new gear fitted at great expense. This is what I asked for: a boat that could slice into the wind, lift its stems, and fight forward. And my wishes were granted.
Upwind, the spray lashes like a whip, bodies braced against the bounce, old bones learning a new rhythm, thrumming with each slap against the steep swell. Trust the boat, we say, when everything’s a question mark. Will she hold? Will we hold together? She groans, fighting to remember she was made for this—steel and resin, no heart, no fear, no feelings. But were we made for this? For moving forward when our fragility says to turn back, or at least be anywhere else?
Graceful, it is not. We asked for upwind, and we got upwind—it came with bruises, salt crusts, deep-set exhaustion, and a queasy stomach. Maybe we should have been more precise with the genie about the amount of upwind.
And in the end, when all the wishing is done and the seas have settled, this is the truth we face and the story we tell.
SV WANDERLUST crossing blue to bluer

SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda - Seawind 1600

 

THANK YOU KRISTIN & FABIO FOR SHARING YOUR PASSION FOR THIS LIFESTYLE!


SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON OUTLOOK

SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON

NOVEMBER 1-APRIL 30

NEW OUTLOOK RELEASED

Tropical cyclones, like hurricanes, are known for their powerful winds, heavy rains, and potential to cause significant destruction.  Tropical cyclones frequently affect the southern Pacific and can pose serious threats to both public health and infrastructure.  All vessels are advised to have a plan of action for the cyclone season.

Tropical cyclone risk for the 2024-25 season

According to New Zealand's National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) and Metservice, the South Pacific may see either fewer or a normal number of tropical cyclones this season.  The cyclone season in the South Pacific starts November 1 and runs until the April 30, with the typical 'peak' of the season being January - March.   The outlook that has recently been released, "Southwest Pacific Tropical Cyclone Outlook - October 2024" describes a slower start to the Cyclone season, potentially less cyclone risk overall in the eastern region while potentially elevated risk in the western region.  According to the NIWA Outlook, "As of early October 2024, sea surface temperatures across the eastern and central equatorial Pacific Ocean are below average and close to La Niña thresholds."  Forecasters are observing more La Niña-like characteristics that tend to reduce risk in the east and elevate risk in the west where warmer water may 'stack up' later in the season.  As with many weather outlooks of late there continues to be caution that while there may be less risk in the frequency of tropical storms this season, there is still a risk that those that come may intensify more rapidly or simply be very intense.

Number of predicted named tropical cyclones interacting with an island group for the 2024-25 season

For cruisers in French Polynesia South Pacific Posse member Scott on Tartaruga shares:

What is critical to following storms in FP is the location of the MJO. Madden Julien Oscillation. You can research that but when that is over French Poly that is when the highest probability of big storms occur. Per some local Tahiti sailors they almost never have any cyclonic storms outside of MJO events. This last season Fiji announced the MJO forecast and when it would be over FP and boom the storms came. Also note that Fiji is the official metrological organization for these storms. Another important data point is they name their storms very early, mean the wind scale starts at a much lower number....NOAA tracks (the MJO) closely as well. I would educate yourself on how to read the graph. It is a bit strange.

Fiji Meteorological Service Regional Specialized Meteorological Centre Nadi-Tropical Cyclone Centre also just released a forecast on the upcoming tropical Cyclone season.  Their predictions are similar.

Total number of TCs forecasted for the RSMC Nadi-TCC AoR.

Stay alert on great weather sites including:


People'ing in the Americas

THE DISCOVERY OF THE LANDMASS OF THE MODERN AMERICAS did not begin with Christopher Columbus.  The most long-standing and widely held theory has been that people entered the Americas in the north at the tail end of the last ice age some 10-15,000 years ago and began to settle across the land.  This long standing theory holds that homo sapiens came across the Bering Straight on a now extinct land bridge from Asia.  However, recent finding across the Americas are questioning this theory and proposing other theories.   Interestingly, the study of Home Sapien migration through science, archeology, geneology and more continues to uncover more and more clues that cloud the picture of how and when homo sapiens populated the Americas more than they are shedding light on the mystery.    Basically, people came overland by foot or people came by water from the east or the west.  Experts have and continue to piece together the past with new findings and new ideas, yet sometimes the mystery just gets bigger.  Regarding the 'by water theory from the west' according to Megan Gannon from Sapiens.org,

"According to this coastal migration theory, some 16,000 years ago the ice had retreated from the coastlines of the Pacific Northwest, such that seafaring people could take advantage of coastal resources like kelp forests to navigate all the way down the shores of California, eventually reaching sites like Monte Verde in Chile.

Proving the coastal theory is tricky. No wooden boats from that era have been found along the shore. The earliest campsites along the ancient Pacific coastline may be lost for good due to erosion and sea level rise. Yet scholars have some clues that people were living along the Pacific coast, including the footprints at Calvert Island.

Evidence of human habitation from at least 13,000 years ago on the Channel Islands in California suggests that people had the skills to build boats and reach these land masses, which were islands even then. In the last 15 years, archaeologists at Cedros Island off the coast of Baja California in Mexico have found traces of a nearly 13,000-year-old settlement. Some archaeologists, such as Loren Davis of Oregon State University, are turning to methods such as coring—removing of a long column of soil—to search for hints of now-underwater prehistoric sites along the Pacific continental shelf."

*NOTE: Cedros Island is on the southbounders route down the Pacific side of the Baja Peninsula.  Multiple anchorages can be found.  The fall is often a good time to use the southern Anchorage: https://goodnautical.com/mexico-pacific/anchorage/isla-cedros-s

This stone artifact is one of many found on the Channel Islands off the coast of California that suggest mariners have traveled to this site for at least 10,000 years. Photo Credit: National Park Service

Nonetheless, while their daily life was not recorded or documented as ours it today, humans were in the Americas for likely over 10,000 years before the first life-changing contact with Europeans occurred in the end of the 15th century.  A that time the Americas were the home to more than 50 million, perhaps as many as 75 million highly evolved communities of people.  These ancient civilizations had experienced many changes and many catastrophes during their long history in the Americas, yet it seems certain that none of these experiences was as tragically transforming as the arrival of Europeans. In the long term, European settlers came to dominate most areas of the Americas.  But even in the short term—in the first violent years of Spanish and Portuguese exploration and conquest—the impact of the new arrivals was profound.  Battles between Natives and Europeans in the Americas continued but there were also many other interactions through which these very different civilizations shaped one another, learned from one another, and changed each other permanently and profoundly.

An early map of the continents

Europeans were almost entirely unaware of the existence of the Americas before the fifteenth century. A few early wanderers like Leif Eriksson, an eleventh-century Norse seaman, and perhaps others—had glimpsed parts of the New World and had demonstrated that Europeans were capable of crossing the ocean to reach it. But even if their discoveries had become common knowledge (and they had not), there would have been little incentive for others to follow. Europe in the middle ages (roughly 500– 1500 A.D.) was not an adventurous civilization.  Europe was divided into innumerable small duchies and kingdoms, its outlook was overwhelmingly provincial. Subsistence agriculture predominated, and commerce was limited; few merchants looked beyond the boundaries of their own regions.  The Roman Catholic Church exercised a measure of spiritual authority over most of the continent, and the Holy Roman Empire provided at least a nominal political center.  Even so, real power was for the most part widely dispersed; only rarely could a single leader launch a great venture.  Gradually, however, conditions in Europe changed so that by the late fifteenth century, interest in overseas exploration had grown.

15th Century: WHY EUROPEANS LOOKED WESTWARD

Two important and related changes provided the first incentive for Europeans to look toward new lands. One was a result of the significant population growth in fifteenth-century Europe following the Black Death.  The Black death was a catastrophic epidemic of the bubonic plague that began in Constantinople in 1347, which had decimated Europe, killing (according to some estimates) more than a third of the people of the continent and debilitating its already limited economy.  By the early 1500's the population had rebounded.  With that growth came a rise in land values, a re-awakening of commerce, and a general increase in prosperity.  Affluent landlords became eager to purchase goods from distant regions, and a new merchant class emerged to meet their demand. As trade increased, and as advances in navigation and shipbuilding made long-distance sea travel more feasible, interest in developing new markets, finding new products, and opening new trade routes rapidly increased. Paralleling this rise of commerce in Europe, and in part responsible for it, was the rise of new governments that were more united and powerful than the feeble political entities of the feudal past. In the western areas of Europe, the authority of the distant pope and the even more distant Holy Roman Emperor was necessarily weak.  As a result, strong new monarchs emerged there and created centralized nation-states, with national courts, national armies, and—perhaps most important—national tax systems. As these ambitious kings and queens consolidated their power and increased their wealth, they became eager to enhance the commercial growth of their nations. Ever since the early fourteenth century, when Marco Polo and other adventurers had returned from Asia bearingexotic goods (spices, fabrics, dyes) and even more exotic tales, Europeans who hoped for commercial glory had dreamed, above all, of trade with the East. For two centuries, that trade had been limited by the difficulties of the long, arduous overland journey to the Asian courts. But in the fourteenth century, as the maritime capabilities of several western European societies increased and as Muslim societies seized control of the eastern routes to Asia, there began to be serious talk of finding a faster, safer sea route to Asia. Such dreams gradually found a receptive audience in the courts of the new monarchs. By the late fifteenth century, some of them were ready to finance daring voyages of exploration. The first to do so were the Portuguese. They were the preeminent maritime power in the fifteenth century, in large part because of the work of one man, Prince Henry the Navigator. Henry’s own principal interest was not in finding a sea route to Asia, but in exploring the western coast of Africa. He dreamed of establishing a Christian empire there to aid in his country’s wars against the Moors of northern Africa; and he hoped to find new stores of gold.

Duke of Viseu (4 March 1394 – 13 November 1460), better known as Prince Henry the Navigator
The ships of Prince Henry the Navigator's day

The explorations Prince Henry began did not fulfill his own hopes and yet, they ultimately led farther than he had dreamed.  Some of Henry’s mariners went as far south as Cape Verde, on Africa’s west coast. In 1486 (six years after Henry’s death), Bartholomeu Dias rounded the southern tip of Africa (the Cape of Good Hope); and in 1497–1498 Vasco da Gama of Portugal proceeded all the way around the cape to India. In 1500, the next fleet bound for India, under the command of Pedro Cabral, was blown westward off its southerly course and happened upon the coast of Brazil.

 

Map made by Juan de la Cosa in 1500, first representation of the New World

But by then another man, in the service of another country, who had already encountered the New World. Christopher Columbus, who was born and reared in Genoa, Italy, obtained most of his early seafaring experience in the service of the Portuguese.  As a young man, he became intrigued with the possibility, already under discussion in many seafaring circles, of reaching Asia by going not east but west. Columbus’s hopes rested on several basic misconceptions. He believed that the world was far smaller than it actually is. He also believed that the Asian continent extended farther eastward than it actually does. He assumed, therefore, that the Atlantic was narrow enough to be crossed on a relatively brief voyage. It did not occur to him that anything lay to the west between Europe and Asia. Columbus failed to win support for his plan in Portugal, so he turned to Spain. The Spaniards were not yet as advanced a maritime people as the Portuguese, but they were at least as energetic and ambitious. In the fifteenth century, the marriage of Spain’s two most powerful regional rulers, Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile, had produced the strongest monarchy in Europe. Like other young monarchies, it soon grew eager to demonstrate its strength by sponsoring new commercial ventures. Columbus appealed to Queen Isabella for support for his proposed westward voyage. In 1492, having consolidated the monarchy’s position within Spain itself, Isabella agreed to Columbus’s request. Commanding ninety men and three ships—the Niña, the Pinta, and the Santa María — Columbus left Spain in August 1492 and sailed west into the Atlantic on what he thought was a straight course for Japan. Ten weeks later, he sighted land and assumed he had reached his target. In fact, he had landed on an island in the Bahamas. When he pushed on and encountered Cuba, he assumed he had reached China. He returned to Spain in triumph, bringing with him several captured natives as evidence of his achievement.

Replica ship of the Santa Maria, one of 3 ships captained by Christopher Columbus in 1492

(He called the people he found in what was to him The New World' "Indians" because he believed they were from the East Indies in the Pacific.) But Columbus had not, of course, encountered the court of the great khan in China or the fabled wealth of the Indies.  A year later, therefore, he tried again, this time with a much larger expedition. As before, he headed into the Caribbean, discovering several other islands and leaving a small and short-lived colony on Hispaniola. On a third voyage, in 1498, he finally reached the mainland and cruised along the northern coast of South America. When he passed the mouth of the Orinoco River (in present-day Venezuela), he concluded for the first time that what he had discovered was not in fact an island off the coast of China, as he had assumed, but a separate continent; such a large freshwater stream, he realized, could emerge only from a large body of land. Still, he remained convinced that Asia was only a short distance away. And although he failed in his efforts to sail around the northeastern coast of South America to the Indies (he was blocked by the Isthmus of Panama), he returned to Spain believing that he had explored at least the fringes of the Far East. He continued to believe that until he died. Columbus’s celebrated accomplishments made him a popular hero for a time, but he ended his life in obscurity.  When Europeans at last gave a name to the New World, they ignored him. The distinction went instead to a Florentine merchant, Amerigo Vespucci, a member of a later Portuguese expedition to the New World who wrote a series of vivid descriptions of the lands he visited and who recognized the Americas as new continents. Columbus has been celebrated for centuries as the “Admiral of the Ocean Sea” (a title he struggled to have officially bestowed on him during his lifetime) and as a representative of the new, secular, scientific impulses of Renaissance Europe.  Columbus was also a deeply religious man, even something of a mystic  His voyages were inspired as much by his conviction that he was fulfilling a divine mission as by his interest in geography and trade. A strong believer in biblical prophecies, he came to see himself as a man destined to advance the coming of the millennium. “God made me the messenger of the new heaven and the new earth,” he wrote near the end of his life, “and he showed me the spot where to find it.”

A map showing areas the Portuguese and Spanish came to and claimed for their crown as they explored the ocean westward from Europe.

A similar combination of worldly and religious passions lay behind many subsequent efforts at exploration and settlement of the New World. Partly as a result of Columbus’s initiative, Spain began to devote greater resources and energy to maritime exploration and gradually replaced Portugal as the leading seafaring nation. The Spaniard Vasco de Balboa fought his way across the Isthmus of Panama in 1513 and became the first known European to gaze westward upon the great ocean that separated America from China and the Indies. Seeking access to that ocean, Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese in the employ of the Spanish, found the strait that now bears his name at the southern end of South America, struggled through the stormy narrows and into the ocean (so calm by contrast that he christened it the “Pacific”), then proceeded to the Philippines. There Magellan died in a conflict with the natives, but his expedition went on to complete the first known circumnavigation of the globe (1519–1522). By 1550, Spaniards had explored the coasts of North America as far north as Oregon in the west and Labrador in the east, as well as some of the interior regions of the continent.

While Humans as a species have been in the Americas for well over ten thousand years, the effect of European explorers upon their arrival in the late 1400's to the mid 1500's was staggering and swift.  While Christopher Columbus was not the first person to come to the Americas, he and his compatriots put a proverbial stake in the ground and claimed their discovery for their crown, their nation and the world.  Prior to this, the world outside of people's immediate environment had previously been so obscure.  European explorers came from their distant land, charting the ocean along the way, and encountered both lands and people they did not know existed and yet as a species humans, homo sapiens had existed on this round planet for hundreds of thousands of years.  How had they spread out so far and wide? How had they become so isolated from one another?  How had their stories been shared and lost?

Piecing together the past through the lens of today, available historic records, and scientific findings is no easy task.  In fact, it leads one to the Paradox of Knowledge that Albert Einsein described with “The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don’t know.” 


SAILING NOTES FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR OCEAN VOYAGERS

Sailing Notes from the South Pacific for Ocean Voyagers

Geologically young and dramatically, steep, mountainous Marquesan islands jut skyward out of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Tikis and coconut palms look out to sea.
The Ocean Posse is working to bring three posses together: the Atlantic posse, the Panama posse and the Pacific Posse so that we will have better overlap to share information and benefits across the oceans that we sail.  Some have crossed oceans that others are considering crossing.  Here, I will share notes from the South Pacific for people considering sailing to the South Pacific, or for those that just want to vicariously enjoy the cerulean blues, coconut palms, island communities spread throughout the South Pacific.
Presently, SV WHILRWND is underway in the Tuamotus, the second of five island groups in French Polynesian that we have visited since making landfall from Panama in May 2024. The Tuamotus, are sometimes referred to as ‘the dangerous islands’ for all the low lying fringing coral reefs boats can and have run aground on which require careful navigation.  So far, with a person on bow watch, the charts on Navionics, and multiple satellite overlays in OPEN CPN navigating the Tuamotus has been very fun.  There is a timing element one must consider when entering and exiting the atolls, between atolls we are sailing in the open ocean with ocean swell instantly, and within the atolls we are sailing in lagoons with little to no waves navigating coral bommies looking for a calm spot in the sand to drop our anchor.
So many different shades of blue in the Tuamotus atoll lagoons.
Slivers of fringing reef encircle blue lagoons studded with coral heads called "bommies"
Over the past two months, We have had the good fortune to see an abundance of coral and undersea life, more blue hues than I knew existed, and a few of the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales that come annually to the oceanic islands of the South Pacific to breed and calf.  According to a cruising marine biologist friend the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales will be turning back towards their summer feeding grounds off Antarctica in the next few weeks. There is a singular raised atoll in the NW part of the Tuamotus called Makatea where, in settled conditions, one can anchor outside the atoll on the leeward side and possibly see whales this time of year.  Looking at the weather with this possibility in mind we saw a sweet weather window that looked perfect for an adventure: two days of downwind sailing from Fakarava to Makatea in time for the wind to die off for three calm days anchored in the lee of the island, followed by wind from the south to carry us north to Tikihau where there is a manta ray feeding station, and on Rangiroa the second larges atoll in the world.  We have friends coming in on October 11th and as all cruisers know this hard stop commitment presents an added element into every sailing schedule.  Guests visiting the Tuamotus fly into Tahiti and then take an inner island flight to the Tuamotus. Interestingly, many atolls have airports: Fakarava and Rangiroa being the two largest atolls have airports that are more frequented than others. So, (Option 1) we could stay in and around Fakarava until our guests come (very relaxing) or (Option 2) we could go on a little atoll tour and make our way to Rangiroa to meet them (an adventure). We decided that the weather window looked good for an adventure and the plan was sound.
Our 'plan' was to sail from Fakarava for two days, spend a few days on the leeward side of Makatea, then sail to Tikihau for a few days and around to Rangiroa to pick up our friends.
Downwind sailing with the mainsail, mizzen, and spinnaker
We weighed anchor in time to catch the high water slack and sail through the exit in the southern pass.  After exiting the atoll, one is in the ocean immediately and we noted a long slow 1m southerly swell. The conditions were great and we set our kite for a smooth downwind sail.  A few hours in our buddies received an email from a French weather service sending out an alert to all mariners of a significant southern swell developing and moving north into the Tuamotus. We pulled up the weather and, sure enough, although the wind was still forecast to be settled in a few days around Makatea the swell was going to be too big to comfortably anchor on the outside of the atoll much less enter through the pass of an atoll.  We decided to reroute to Tikihau and save Makatea for another time.
There is a 'plan' and then there is the reality that unfolds when new information comes to light, conditions change, and the route must change as well.
We arrived outside Tikihau in the night, hove to outside the entrance, and waited for the low slack at first light. Upon arriving in Tikihau the weather forecast changed multiple times over the course of the day. In the southern hemisphere winter has just turned to spring and now this northern hemisphere sailor can say the spring weather down here is as fickle as one might expect in the spring: changing so often it’s hard to hang you hat on much beyond the immediate conditions. There are significant blows coming in and out of the forecast and still a large swell coming with mixed forecasts on how long it will affect this part of the Tuamotus. Based on these changing forecasts and the expected conditions in the passes when the swell arrives we have now determined that today, seems to be the best day in the next ten (when our friends are to arrive) to make our way from Tikihau to Rangiroa, so we are underway once more.
No matter the ocean, the weather calls the shots.  So far, sailing in the South Pacific has been nothing short of a dynamic adventure demanding that we constantly keep an eye on the weather and a sharp lookout over the bow.  While on lookout this morning we saw manta rays entering the Pass into Tihihau and dolphins surfing our bow as we set out into the ocean to Rangiroa...and we still could see a whale.
Sailing to Rangiroa: the second largest atoll in the world.
For cruisers looking to the South Pacific for adventure; crossing the ocean to get here is an epic adventure in and of itself.  Most people set sail for the South Pacific from points west in the late winter/early spring.  Presently, many cruisers are beginning to rub their palms together, eyeing up routes and weather patterns, running through their inventory of parts and spares, making lists, reading about storm tactics and high sea debacles, and/or taking care of a host or pre-departure maintenance or upgrades.  Shaking down our fears can also be a big part of mentally preparing for a ocean voyage.  Some, like my friend, may be wondering, "What were your scariest moments on the passage (to French Polynesia)?"
Taking a panoramic shot aboard SV WHIRLWIND out at sea while rocking and rolling.  Fear can feel like this: exaggerated and out of control.
In jest, my husband and our captain said, "the day we realized we didn't bring enough rum."  That was more sad really, but nothing we can't get over.
More sincerely, he said, "The day the autohelm and went a little wacky and (he) had visions of the rudder breaking loose."  Terrifying!  Indeed, one of our worst nightmares.  That 'wackiness' was rectified at sea with no major drama.  And we installed a back up autohelm before leaving Panama Bay.
In my most sincere and more lengthy response, I shared:  We spent 30 days at sea: they were both utterly glorious and unexpectedly difficult at times. A huge realization for me was that the infamous Coconut Milk Run starts west of French Polynesia….or maybe in French Polynesia…or maybe to the east...it’s the Eden out there somewhere, the Fair Winds and the Following Seas of every sailors dreams.  As we set out to cross the Pacific we actually thought we were on the Coconut Milk Run from Panama to the Marquesas.  So when we got out there and spent far longer in confused seas than we ever imagined could be part of a 'Coconut Milk Run' we joked, desperately at times while tossing chaotically in a confusion of seas and open sky, saying “this is coconut milk!? I imagined something sweet and smooth not a frothy mess" Or, "If this is coconut milk, I’ll stick to beer (or rum)!” Crossing the ocean can easily be romanticized…in my experience it is with the adventure ahead of me or behind me that I can romanticize really well about it.  When I am in it, it is usually....well...a Whirlwind of calm joy, uncertainty, chaos, thrill, or somehwere in between.
In preparation, I tried hard to be realistic, to plan for the worst and hope for the best, to be ready for the voyage and not simply long for the destination, to pack the boat full of provisions and spares, to check everything twice sometime thrice.  While the dream to cross the Pacific was years in the making for us and I had years to consider the magnitude of this voyage, still he scariest moment for me was somewhere SW of the Galapagos when I realized how far offshore we were, how much further we had to go, and that there would be no real rest until we were in French Polynesia.  It was nighttime and I woke out of a sleep to my husband, Mike, and our 13 year old son, Russell, reefing the main in sloppy seas and having a heck of a time.  I hopped up to help and the sky was SO big and SO black, spotted more stars than I had ever seen.  I could not immediately see Mike or Russell but somehow the wavetops were illuminated, so swift and heaving.  I was struck with a desperate feeling knowing there was no turning back, still so far to go, and only us to make that happen.  In that moment reefing the main felt goliath, possibly insurmountable, and I had to have a serious talk with myself!  I had to take the task at hand for just the task at hand, not the hundreds of miles we had come or the thousands of miles to go.  I had to just focus and reef the main.  'Stay calm.  Stay Steady.  We got this,' I reminded myself.  Finally, we prevailed.  For whatever reasons, reefing was more than difficult that night and with some mighty cursing and some steady determination we did it.  And then we just moved right along.  The boat settled nicely due to the reef, mind you the seas did not miraculously settle, but the motion certainly improved.  The boys went back on watch, and I to easily slipped back into bed.  For whatever reason, that was my scariest moment.  Basically, when the breadth of what we had set out to do actually hit me like it never quite had before - we were in the middle of the ocean and I felt like an absolute imbecile for only then realizing what I had gotten myself and my family into?!  I thought I had thought it through but in that moment I did not think I had.  I felt enormously overwhelmed by how easily we could get swallowed up.  I also felt that there was no turning back.  (Now in hindsight I know that is not entirely true, but it was certainly how I felt and continuing west was certainly the best option.)  Still, I felt I was stuck and incomprehensibly vulnerable which was truly scary.  The other side of these completely humbling feelings was how absolutely beautiful the stars, the ocean, and the sky were.  Steering away from the overwhelm of fear I definitely made a point to take comfort in the grandeur and holdfast.  It is wild when terrifying can also be infinitely impressive.  There is no doubt the ocean is mighty!  The colors and the expansiveness are nothing short of awe-inspiring making the trials of the adventures worth it....especially when I am on the other side of that particular part of this adventure and can romanticize all about it.
Romantic and Real: Tuamotu sunset.
Lagoon sailing can be exceptionally pleasant.

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND


MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

in 2017 UNESCO named Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia a world heritage site for its outstanding universal value, exceptional testimony to 1,000 years of pre-colonial mā'ohi civilization, and central location in the 'Polynesian Triangle'.  The 'points' on the Polynesian triangle are New Zealand, Hawaii, and Rapa Nui.  Taputapuātea is in the very center of this triangle of oceanic islands.  Both the cultural landscape and seascape on Ra’iātea make this a unique and remarkable place one must see.  Taputapuātea is an area that goes from the mountains through forested valleys spanning across a portion of lagoon and coral reef and a strip of open ocean.  In the center is the Marae of Taputapuātea.

The dark rectangular stone space is part of the Taputapuātea Marae complex: a political, ceremonial and funerary center on the edge of the lagoon surrounding the island. photo credit: P.F. Amar

The Marae of Taputapuātea is considered to be the most sacred pre-colonial Polynesian archeological sites in French Polynesia. UNESCO describes this site as:

"dedicated to the god ‘Oro and the place where the world of the living (Te Ao) intersects the world of the ancestors and gods (Te Po). It also expresses political power and relationships. The rise in the importance of Taputapuātea among the marae on Raiatea and in the wider region is linked to the line of Tamatoa ari’i (chiefs) and the expansion of their power. Taputapuātea was the centre of a political alliance that brought together two widespread regions encompassing most of Polynesia. The alliance was maintained by regular gatherings of chiefs, warriors and priests who came from the other islands to meet at Taputapuātea. The building of outrigger canoes and ocean navigation were key skills in maintaining this network.

A traditional landscape surrounds both sides of the Taputapuātea marae complex. The marae complex looks out to Te Ava Mo'a, a sacred pass in the reef that bounds the lagoon. Atāra motu is an islet in the reef and a habitat for seabirds. Ocean-going arrivals waited here before being led through the sacred pass and formally welcomed at Taputapuātea. On the landward side, ’Ōpo’a and Hotopu’u are forested valleys ringed by ridges and the sacred mountain of Tea’etapu. The upland portions of the valleys feature older marae, such as marae Vaeāra’i and marae Taumariari, agricultural terraces, archaeological traces of habitations and named features related to traditions of gods and ancestors. Vegetation in the valleys is a mix of species, some endemic to Raiatea, some common to other Polynesian islands and some imported food species brought by ancient Polynesians for cultivation. Together, the attributes of the property form an outstanding relict and associative cultural landscape and seascape."

Throughout Polynesia the Marae are communal or sacred sites in village life. In order to build a marae in another location, it is said that one must start with a stone from Taputapuātea.  The marae are places with different functions.   They are places where the world of the living intersected with the world of village ancestors and Polynesian gods.  They are places where people gather for ceremony, dance, connecting with the past and with community.

People gather in the Taputapuatea marae for ceremony.  photo credit GIE Tourisme

This video is a product of the cumulative effort of cultural and historical groups presenting the significance of Taputapuātea in the past, the present, and for the future.

https://youtu.be/wXbJXHR8-3g?t=391

People navigated to and from Taputapuatea in the past and continue today.  photo credit GIE Tourisme
Fishing in the waters of Taputapuatea is a part of traditional life.  photo credit: A. Wickel
Marine biodiverity in Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama
Coral shelf surrounding Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama

 

Mountains of Taputapuatea photo credit: P.F. Amar

FIJIAN CULTURE AND THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

FIJI: THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

In traditional villages in Fiji Sevusevu is and has been the central component of all life-cycle rituals, social gatherings, healing ceremonies and community meetings.  Significant and ancient in Fiji, the “sevusevu” also marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village.

In more formal settings, Sevusevu includes a complete performance where each male from the village has a specific role to play. Traditional attire is worn with pride, collected rain water is poured from bamboo shafts, pounded kava is strained through hibiscus bark and each bilo (drinking bowl from the half-shell of a coconut) is delivered deliberately and seriously in absolute silence (aside from the sound of deep ‘Cobo’ claps in acceptance and thanks of each ‘bilo’)

Every Sevusevu is not as formal as pictured above however there is a distinct and courteous process visitors must follow.  Further, understanding the significance of Sevusevu, respecting, and adhering to the tradition of this process helps to keep this aspect of Fijian Culture strong.

Longtime Ocean Posse member Chris on SV SEAGLUB has been living in Fiji for several years.   He shares the following about his experience with the Sevesevu:

In Fiji, when visiting smaller settlements, a visitor must seek out the village chief and present him with a small token or gift as a sign of respect and to ask permission to visit. This not only gives visitors permission to interact with the villagers but also to stay in the town and to visit any local scenery (such as beaches, waterfalls etc). Not doing so shows disrespect for their culture, but is also the equivalent of trespassing – for example pitching a tent in someone's backyard without permission.

‘Sevusevu’ is the name given to the actual gift or token that visitors present the chief with, most commonly a half-kilo bumdle of waka (kava root).  When arriving in the village, visitors should ask for the Turaga ni Koro (pronounced as too-ranga nee koro) or the village headman, as they usually have good English skills and will help with the translations. The headman will take visitors to the chief’s house for introduction. Remember no hats are to be worn once in the village and you should take your shoes off at the door before entering houses. Sitting cross legged on the floor, the kava root is then presented to the chief.

To ensure you are respectful of this important tradition, there are a few points of etiquette to follow. Firstly, everyone at the ceremony should dress in a sulu, which is a Fijian skirt regarded as their national dress. Women should also cover their shoulders. Men should sit cross-legged, ensuring that their sulu covers their knees, and women should sit with knees and feet together. Do not take photographs or videos throughout the ceremony, until the Turaga ni Koro lets you know that it’s okay to do so. Silence during the ceremony itself is crucial.

The ceremony itself is poignant. Afterwards you'll be welcomed as nothing less than family.

SV SEAGLUB 🇺🇸 Chris -Hylas 46'

 

Anchorage in Fulaga, Fiji

 


NAWI ISLAND POSSE PARTY WRAP UP

SOUTH PACIFIC POSSE PARTY WRAP UP

When the Posse throws a party there is rum, a pig roast, people come and have fun...

It's that simple and it happens every time.

Last weekend the Ocean Posse and Posse sponsor Nawi Island Marina hosted a party at Nawi Island Marina in Savusavu, Fiji. The South Pacific Islands are distinctly different and yet there are many similarities among the peoples ways of celebrating.  One such similarity is that celebratory feasting often involves the roasting (wither on a spit or more traditionally wrapped in banana leaves underground in a earthen pit) an entire animal....often a pig.  In Fiji, a traditional pig feast is called 'Lovo' (which refers to the earthen oven) and is often the meal that brings large groups of people together for celebrating births, funerals, marriages, welcoming or bidding farewell to visitors, and holidays such as Easter or Christmas.  Traditionally, women prepare the meat, men tend the earthen oven or fire, children play, and people are welcome to spend the time visiting and playing while the meal slowly cooks.  This method of gathering, cooking slowly, and feasting has been passed down from generation to generation as a living legacy of bonding the importance of relationships within a community.  Often other foods like seafoods, other meats, or vegetables are also cooked either in or near the earthen oven similarly wrapped in banana leaves to steam cook slowly.  The flavors become distinctly rich and flavorful.  When everything is unearthed or done cooking over coals, foods that were wrapped are unwrapped and are traditionally placed on banana leaves and presented buffet style accompanied by fresh squeezed coconut cream and other sauces.

SV WHIMSICAL IV shared their photos from the event:

Roast pig on a spit
Roast pig presented on banana leaves for the Feast.

Our Host: Nawi Island Marina
Traditional Dancing and Singing

Posse Members at the South Pacific Party in Nawi Island last week

SV WHIMSICAL IV 🇺🇸 Randy & Joanne - Catalina 470

The feast was wonderful.  There were about 80 people in attendance that enjoyed a night of good food, drinks, meeting new friends and deepening relationships.