STORIES FROM DISTANCE SHORES

STORIES FROM DISTANT SHORES

Full sails down heading out for a new adventure

Steve, from SV Wine N Down, has had many sailing adventures.  He did a loop from Fort Lauderdale to the Caribbean, the Leeward / Windward Islands, Grenada and back.  Then he sailed to Mexico, Belize, Panama to the San Francisco Bay.   Now he is off anew on another voyage.  Here he shares about their new adventure:

We are happy to be back out to sea.  Our current trip so far: Right now, my three buddies and I are on a fishing adventure. Our lady friends/wife’s are flying in and meeting us at different locations throughout our planned four trips.

  • Trip one will include our departure from SF on September 1 and ending in Long Beach. I need to return to Sonoma temporarily for grape and olive harvest time.
  • Trip two will take us to La Paz, Mexico, with lots of fishing planned.
  • Trip three will take us across the Sea of Cortez, with many stops along the way.
  • Trip four should put us in for a stop in Puerto Vallarta and with a final home base in Barra de Navidad by around February 1st.

The adventure continues.

Fishing is off to a great start off the coast of California

Here’s to Great Fishing!

Happy Captain

Pelicans on the Jetty in Half Moon Bay.

Steve says, “It’s all about taking our time and enjoying everything about cruising and enjoying our beautiful planet.”

SV WINE N DOWN  🇺🇸  Steve & Crew – Leopard 58′

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR JOY STEVE!

Ocean Posse Members, please share your stories by sending them to editor@oceanposse.com.

Maurisa, the editor, is always happy to receive your stories and share them out.  Together we can inspire one another!

 


LOGISTICAL PREPARATIONS

LOGISTICAL PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING HOME WATERS AND ENTERING NEW COUNTRIES

Certain Papers are required for entering and exiting new countries. Be Prepared.
Roatan Port Captains' office.

Leaving ones home waters and entering a new country is certainly a big change and there are many essential details not to forget.  Checklists are handy tools for preparing for Entry and Exit Requirements.  Beyond the obvious boat essentials like checking your systems, having safety equipment onboard, topping your fluids, and changing your zincs, please see the checklist below for details not to be forgotten when setting out on a long distance voyage with the Ocean Posse.

  • If an EPIRB is onboard a US flagged vessel, register it with the NOAA.  Before leaving confirm that all information is current.  This includes vessel name, your primary phone number, emergency contact name/s and address/es: https://beaconregistration.noaa.gov/RGDB/registrationRequirements
  • A Ship Stations License is required by the FCC for travelling in international territories: https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/maritime-mobile/ship-radio-stations/ship-radio-stations
  • Make sure the MMSI number of your vessel is registered in your name: https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/maritime-mobile/ship-radio-stations/maritime-mobile
  • Have your boat documentation or registration up to date and in order.  NOTE: most countries (and the Panama Canal Authorities) are requiring international navigation documentation indicating nationality and ownership over state registration.  Check with your destination country.
  • If the boat is documented or registered in the name of someone not present or the name of a business or organization: a letter notarized by the documented vessel owner authorizing the captain and crew to be operating the vessel is required to enter other countries (and transit the Panama Canal).  It is imperative to have both the original and copies of all notarized documents.
  • Depending on the country you enter you will buy a Temporary Import Permit which allows the vessel to enter the country.  This is an important document to keep with the vessel the entire time in the country of entry.  This document is also required upon exiting many countries.
  • Current passport for everyone onboard ideally good for the duration of your stay abroad.
  • Many countries require a Crew List upon entry which states everyone onboard, their Date of Birth, their rank on the vessel and their passport number.
  • If navigating into Mexico, Mexican Liability Insurance is required to Navigate in Mexican waters.
  • If navigating in Mexico, the captain is required to show a boaters education card, ASA certification, or a captains license upon exiting the country.
  • Outside of the United States, when exiting one country and entering another you will need an authorized document of exit (called a zarpe throughout Central America) from one country in order to enter the next country.
  • Wherever you go along the route, be prepared for entry and exit requirements and seasonal changes.

It is not entirely uncommon for requirements to vary port to port.  The best practice is to be prepared with everything and not be asked for them than to be asked for something you do not have.

Adventure calls.

 


POSSE PERK: 📹 Free Video EDUCATIONAL Seminars

POSSE PERK: 📹 Free Live & Video

EDUCATIONAL

Navigation Software Open CPN Seminars

opencpn

A huge Posse Perk is access to both live and recorded seminars on a variety of relevant cruising topics.  Of particular relevance are the navigational seminars related to using OPEN CPN for navigation.   Open CPN allows you access to multiple views (from different satellite views to different charts) of one location in one location.  One can plan routes and load in weather files among other capabilities.  There is a lot to learn in order to use Open CPN to it's potential which is why the Ocean Posse offers educational seminars.

LIVE Navigational Cruising Seminars coming up in San Diego:

  1. Open CPN - installation and integration (PC + MAC )
  2. Weather Weather Weather – planning – routing – underway
  3. Open CPN – Satellite Charts – Use Cases and Satellite Chart creation
  4. Chart Accuracy, Navigation Trips and Tricks & Tracking

Navigational seminars currently available to Ocean Posse members online:

  1. OPEN CPN MAKE CHARTS
  2. CREATE .MBTILES WITH SASPLANET
  3. OPEN CPN WITH ROB FROM AVANT OCT 23
  4. ADVANCED SAT2CHART: MAKE GOOGLE EARTH CHART OVERLAYS WITH PAUL HIGGINS
  5. OPEN CPN USE CASE

Posse members can click on this link to log into the site to view all these and more.

In Open CPN one can plan routes, record tracks, export and import tracks.

DINGHY SAFETY AND SECURITY

DINGHY SAFETY AND SECURITY

Exploring by dinghy is one of our favorite things to do.

Sailing down the Pacific coast of the United States from the Puget Sound in 2018 on SV ARROW, I quickly learned the importance of dinghy safety and security.

FIRST: Timing landings and take off's is KEY.

From the beginning, almost every take off and landing of the tender to and from the shore was affected by ocean swell until well north in the Sea of Cortez or tucked deeply into a very calm corner of a bay.  I think it is a safe bet that every cruiser has a tale of a dinghy landing or more that went wrong.  Maybe it involves flipping their dinghy, turning sidelong to the wave at a terrible moment, not having enough motor power to push through the waves, getting swamped on the take off just before passing clear of the breakers, etc.

I guarantee these are not moments worth repeating so it is imminently importantly is to know how to land and take off safely.  The first step requires patient study of the waves and the beach:

  • Where is the calmest area of the beach with a good landing zone.
  • Where are the waves breaking?
  • How many waves are in a set and how big are they?
  • How much time is there between sets?

For us, watching the 'pangueros' in every country from Mexico to Panama pilot their pangas on and off the beach was incredibly instructive.  They have local knowledge of where to land and time tested patience watching, waiting, and taking the gap in the swell for the smoothest ride in and out.  At best one rides in on the back of the last wave in a set, glides to the beach, pops out and pulls the dinghy to higher ground swiftly based on the size of the waves.  At best on takes off by entering the water, walking the dinghy in past the break zone after the last wave in a set, hops in, starts the motor, and zips out of the crash zone before the next set comes in.

Our dinghy parked alongside professionals on an easy to land beach in the Perlas Islands, Panama

SECOND: The dinghy motor is well balanced to the size of the tender and their crew

When we first left the Puget Sound we had a super sweet rowboat that we made years earlier.  No motor and two of our four person crew were growing by the minute.  In San Diego, we bought an inflatable tender and motor that allowed us to get on and off shore with more speed when we needed it and more space so we were not over loading our small craft.  Lots of people cover their motor in an old XL t-shirt, stickers, or scratches, or a canvas motor cover to camouflage and/or protect it.

Throwback: Such a sweet time when we could all enjoy the rowboat.

THIRD: Dry bags keep important items safe...and dry.

No matter how calm the conditions, once in the dinghy one is closer to the water than they were on the mothership.  Everything (from one's clothes to one's camera or wallet) in the dinghy is at risk of getting wet either from spray while moving or a wave while landing or taking off.  Accidents can and do happen.  Using dry bags or dry boxes keeps the losses to a minimum.

FOURTH: Good dinghy wheels are AWESOME.

Reliable and stout dinghy wheels are the most efficient way to move the dinghy to higher ground.  Our favorite wheels (and our third set to date) are Beach Masters out of New Zealand.  They have a smooth action to put them up and down and they are stout so they can roll over uneven rocks when necessary.

Beachmaster Dinghy wheels installed and ready for their maiden voyage landing.

FIFTH: Even the tender needs a reliable anchor.

If the landing is untenable or you want to snorkel near a reef and the dinghy must be anchored out, ideally one has a dinghy anchor, a little chain and some rode that can be securely attached to the dinghy.

SIXTH: A secure combination Brass U Lock will withstand years of salt and exposure and is an excellent baby-sitter

Dinghy locks keep discourage theft and give us piece of mind when going to sleep or going ashore to explore or provision.  We keep the motor locked at all times although my captain would prefer a lock that covers up the motor clamps.  We also and have a second setup that includes a long bicycle cable and Brass U Lock.  We use the cable to lock the dinghy to something secure ashore.  Additionally, in 99% of all places we have anchored up and down the Pacific Coast of North and Central America, we always raise the dinghy up at night to discourage theft and be sure that we are not relying on a knot to keep our dinghy close.

Voila! SY MAISON DE SANTÉ's dinghy and crew are safely ashore.

COMING SOON TO SV WHIRLWIND: A Small Dinghy Survival kit with a few essentials.

While we have been using our tender to come and go from our vessel for six years now we always bring a handheld vhf radio with us and often grab a few extra things here and there depending on where we are going, the time of day, and/or the occasion.  In the coming weeks we are determined to make a small dinghy survival kit that will just live in our dink, MV TUMBLEWEED.

We plan to include:

  • a small first aid kit
  • a signal mirror
  • a flashlight
  • fire starter
  • a flare
  • a pocket knife
  • sunscreen
  • a corkscreen/bottle opener

We may make a canvas bag, re-dedicate a drybag, or integrate a pocket into our chaps to house this kit.  Stay tuned.

SV WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajuela 48

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND 


FIJI REGATTA WEEK 2024

UPCOMING EVENT : FIJI REGATTA WEEK

 11-15 September, 2024

in beautiful Musket Cove

Annual Musket Cove Regatta.

Registration for the 2024 40th Anniversary Regatta is now open. Please book early! 

This link will take you to the Regatta Registration form.

Please note this form is for Regatta Registrations only. For all Marina Berth and Mooring bookings, please email Patrick directly at: mcyc@musketcovefiji.com. Please book early as there are limited Marina Berths available.

https://pacificposse.com/musket-cove-marina

MUSKET COVE MARINA 🇫🇯

SPONSORS THE PANAMA POSSE

We welcome any of the South Pacific Posse to Musket Cove at any time.

We’re pleased to offer a Free Berthing Day for 5 Paid Days to all of your Posse Members.

Wayne Deed

Director of Sales & Marketing

Musket Cove Island Resort & Marina

Malolo Lailai Island

Fiji Islands

m| +64 21 824266

P |  +679 666 2215

www.musketcovefiji.com


MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park, Dominica

MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park,

Dominica 🇩🇲

Location of Morne Trois Pitons

Morne Trois Pitons National Park is on the Island of Dominica in the southeastern Caribbean Sea.  The volcanic island is quite heavily forested and mountainous, rich in water and fertile soil, and still has a number of (rarely) active volcanoes, volcanic vents, bubbling mud ponds, and hot springs.  The National Park was established by the Dominican government in 1975 and made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 for its uniquely stunning geologic (volcanic) formations, its biodiversity, and its huge stores of water.  Nearly all the headwaters of the streams and rivers that hydrate and power the southern half of the Island begin in Morne Trois Pitons National Park.

Waterfall into Emerald Pool in Morne Trois Pitons National Park
Boiling Lake is steaming HOT!

The National Park encompasses a lake called Boiling Lake, so named for the gasses that bubble from beneath it and keep the water temperature to over 95 degrees Celsius.  The mountainous landscape is punctuated by three main peaks (hence Trois Pitons) that are steep and rugged with waterfalls, freshwater lakes, and a huge variety of flaura and fauna, several endemic to Dominica.

blue headed hummingbird pollinates rain or shine.
Dense tropical flora boast rare Caribbean habitats including elfin/cloud forest
The Mountain Chicken frog of Dominica is capable of reaching up to 1kg in weight.

Preserving Wildlife is important to this Island nation that considers nature prime importance to their survival and food security.  In addition to abundant fruit, The Mountain Chicken frog was once considered the nation's unofficial national dish.  A decline in their numbers led to conservation efforts including hunting season regulations and scientific attention.  However, no amount of regulations can hold back mother nature and both a soil borne fungus and a volcanic eruption resulted in significant reduction in many amphibious animals including the Mountain Chicken.  Therefore, in spite of conservation efforts, their species numbers have continued to decline and they are on the brink of extinction.  As of November 2023 scientists believe there were 30 known Mountain Chicken Frogs left.

There is hope in that Dominica has actually made tremendous strides that offer hope to the survival of the species identifying genes of resiliency that can be treated to eliminate the fungus illness in the frogs.  Time will tell.

 


EXPLORING INLAND TO BELGIUM

AFTER CROSSING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN

SV QUESO GRANDE II GOES INLAND TO BELGIUM

We took a guided river tour.  It was a great way to see the sights of Bruges.

Standing in front of the Provincial Palace in Bruges, Belgium

Belfry of Bruges is a midieval bell tower in the city center.

The Church of Our Lady, catholic church towers prominently in the city from many different places.

SV QUESO GRANDE II 🇺🇸 Lance & Sherri – Seawind 1260 41′

 

Looks like your sea legs are taking you far; Thanks for sharing!

: The Venice of the North

Nestled in the northwest of Belgium, Bruges is a city that seems to have been plucked straight out of a fairy tale. With its picturesque canals, medieval architecture, and cobbled streets, it is no wonder that Bruges is often referred to as the “Venice of the North.” This enchanting city has preserved its medieval charm, making it one of Europe’s most beloved destinations.

A Historical Tapestry

Bruges’ history dates back to the 9th century when it was founded by the Vikings. By the 12th century, Bruges had become a bustling trading hub, thanks to its strategic location and access to the North Sea. The city’s prosperity peaked in the 14th century when it was one of the leading cities of the Hanseatic League, a powerful commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe.

The wealth generated by trade is still evident today in Bruges’ stunning architecture. The city is a treasure trove of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings, many of which have been meticulously preserved. The Belfry of Bruges, a medieval bell tower in the city’s heart, is one of its most iconic landmarks. Climbing the 366 steps to the top offers panoramic views of the city and is well worth the effort.

The Canals of Bruges

Bruges is famous for its network of canals, which wind their way through the city and have earned it the nickname “Venice of the North.” These waterways were once vital for trade, allowing goods to be transported easily throughout the city. Today, they provide a scenic way to explore Bruges. A boat tour along the canals offers a unique perspective of the city’s stunning architecture and charming bridges.

Art and Culture

Art lovers will find plenty to admire in Bruges. The city is home to several world-class museums, including the Groeningemuseum, which houses an impressive collection of Flemish Primitive art. Works by masters such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling can be found here, offering a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of the region.

In addition to its museums, Bruges is famous for its lace-making tradition. Lace has been made in Bruges for centuries, and visitors can learn about this delicate craft at the Lace Center, where demonstrations are held regularly.

Culinary Delights

No visit to Bruges would be complete without indulging in its culinary offerings. Belgian chocolate is renowned worldwide, and Bruges is home to some of the country’s best chocolatiers. A stroll through the city’s streets will reveal numerous chocolate shops, each offering a tempting array of pralines, truffles, and other sweet treats.

Bruges is also a great place to sample traditional Belgian cuisine. Mussels and fries, known as “moules-frites,” are a must-try dish, as is the hearty Flemish beef stew, “carbonade flamande.” Of course, no meal in Belgium is complete without a glass of locally brewed beer. Bruges has several breweries, each producing unique and flavorful beers that are sure to delight any connoisseur.

A Timeless Charm

What makes Bruges truly special is its ability to transport visitors back in time. The city’s medieval architecture, cobbled streets, and tranquil canals create an atmosphere that is both romantic and timeless. Whether you’re exploring the historic Markt square, visiting the Basilica of the Holy Blood, or simply enjoying a leisurely boat ride, Bruges offers an experience unlike any other.

Bruges is more than just a city; it is a journey through history, art, and culture. Its charm lies in its ability to blend the old with the new, offering visitors a glimpse into the past while still being a vibrant and lively place to explore. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a romantic getaway, Bruges has something to offer everyone.

Bruges

ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE

SV VIVA'S ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE

Scootering in the South Pacific Sunshine

SV VIVA is in French Polynesia in the South Pacific.  Their recent report shares a few different ways to explore the islands of Moorea and Tahiti:

We rented a scooter and toured the island of Moorea yesterday and did a 9-mile hike up to Belvedere and back on the 3-cocotier trail a few days ago...found many amazing views. Today, we took the ferry across to Tahiti at 7 am, rented a scooter and toured the whole island with several beautiful stops along the way.  We sprinkled this tour with some provisioning that we could fit in backpacks and boxes on our rented scooter.

Great Views of Mountains.
The home of the scooter
Great views of cerulean water

VIVASweet bike lane!

SV VIVA 🇺🇸 Pierre & Marie - Amel 52'

VIVAVIVA

Adventurous and Practical!  Thank you for sharing VIVA!


HISTORY OF BLACKBIRDING REMEMBERED

Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day

August 25, 2024

Blackbirding: A Dark Piece of History Remembered

Kanaka workers in a sugar cane plantation in Queensland, late 19th century.
Kanaka (or South Sea Islander) workers in a sugar cane plantation in Queensland, late 19th century.

Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day is significant as it recognizes the the arrival of the first South Sea Islanders to Queensland, Australia and a distinct cultural group that has become a part of the fabric of Australia's population and heritage.  The arrival of the first South Sea Islanders was part of the practice of "blackbirding", or slave-trading, that went on in the mid to late 1800s in the South Pacific.  Blackbirding refers to the recruitment, trickery, and outright stealing of people from their native lands forced to labor in distant lands.  Labor conditions and pay were notoriously poor to inhumane.

This period of South Pacific history tangles with American history here: the US Civil War was dragging on and dramatically impacting worldwide supplies of sugar and cotton.  Furthermore, as the US Civil War came to a close and it was apparent that the South would never be the same again, people from the Confederacy that had the means to escape found their way to the new places to practice their old ways: whether it be cash crops or slave trading.  In response, new areas of production were opening up in new parts of the world like Australia, Fiji, and Hawaii.  The new areas of production needed cheap laborers.  Pacific Islanders, primarily from 80 different islands in Melanesia and Polynesia, were blackbirded and forced to work on new sugar and cotton plantations.

Para (ship) South Sea Islanders, recruited for the Queensland cane fields, being carried in boats to the Para. (Descriptions supplied with photograph). The English artist who produced this drawing, William Twizell Wawn, captained ships between 1875 and 1891.
Para (ship) South Sea Islanders, recruited for the Queensland cane fields, being carried in boats to the Para. (Descriptions supplied with photograph). The English artist who produced this drawing, William Twizell Wawn, captained ships between 1875 and 1891.
SUGRA PRICE HISTORY.
200+ years of sugar pricing
these exploitative labour market practices in the sugar industry started in 1863 – almost 60 years after Britain and the United States had made slave trading illegal.
Exploitative labor market practices in the sugar industry started in 1863 – almost 60 years after Britain and the United States had made slave trading illegal.

Tens of thousands of Pacific Island laborers were brought to Australia from neighboring Melanesian and Polynesian islands.  In particular, Queensland, during the late 19th century, used these indentured laborers for work on sugarcane plantations. Estimates suggest around 60,000 to 80,000 humans were involved.

Fiji was another major destination and saw a significant influx of blackbirded laborers, with estimates ranging from 60,000 to 70,000 individuals. The sugarcane industry in Fiji heavily relied on coerced labor.

The deportations began in 1906 and continued until 1908. More than 7500 South Sea Islanders were returned to their home country, though some had arrived in Australia at such a young age they would have had no memory of it. About 2500 Pacific Islanders stayed in Australia.

In Australia and other colonial powers involved in black birding, legislative measures were introduced to regulate and eventually restrict the recruitment of labor from Pacific Island nations. These measures aimed to improve labor conditions and protect the rights of indigenous populations. The practices associated with blackbirding were increasingly criticized by humanitarian and human rights advocates internationally. Reports of abuse, mistreatment, and exploitation of laborers led to growing pressure on countries involved in the practice to address these concerns. In various regions, including Australia and Fiji, labor reforms were introduced to address the unethical practices associated with blackbirding. The goal was to ensure fair treatment, appropriate wages, and better working conditions for laborers. Indigenous communities in affected regions began advocating for their rights and raising awareness about the mistreatment and exploitation they faced due to blackbirding. Their efforts contributed to increased attention on the issue and the need for change. As economies evolved and industries changed, the demand for labor through blackbirding diminished. Economic factors, coupled with increased awareness of ethical concerns, contributed to the decline of the practice. By the early 20th century, blackbirding had largely faded as a widespread practice due to a combination of the factors mentioned above. Many countries introduced laws and reforms to prevent the recruitment of labor through coercion and deception.

bundaberg 1895

Formal Deportations of South Sea Island Laborers  began in 1906 and continued until 1908.  More than 7,500 South Sea Islanders were returned to their home country, though some had arrived in Australia at such a young age they would have had no memory of their exact origin.  Indenture ceased in Fiji in 1911.

The official Australian South Sea Islander flag initially designed in consultation with the ASSI community. The flag was formally adopted in 1998 by ASSIUC. The colour scheme incorporates colours resonant to people with forebears of which the three quarters of the trade were taken from the 83 islands of Vanuatu and are represented through colours green, gold and black, a third of the trade was from the Solomon Islands represented with blue, white, green. The overall flag is inclusive other parts of the South Pacific affected by Blackbirding as we are connected through the ocean blue and white stars.

The official Australian South Sea Islander flag initially designed in consultation with the ASSI community. The flag was formally adopted in 1998. The color scheme incorporates colors resonant to people with forebears of which the three quarters of the trade were taken from the 83 islands of Vanuatu and are represented through colors green, gold and black, a third of the trade was from the Solomon Islands represented with blue, white, green. The overall flag is inclusive other parts of the South Pacific affected by Blackbirding as we are connected through the ocean blue and white stars.

While the formal abolition of blackbirding marked an important step in ending the exploitative practices, it's important to recognize that the legacy of blackbirding continues to impact affected communities to this day. The efforts to remember this history, address its consequences, and promote awareness of human rights and social justice continue in the affected regions.


Getting Ready to GO Cruising!

Getting Ready to GO!

by Ocean Posse member Rob Murray on SV AVANT

Wind and Wave data for mariners

What do you do to get ready for a cruising season? What resources do you rely on? How can you assess the weather and potential passages months in advance? The following is a list of some of the steps we take and resources we rely on aboard Avant to get ready for a major passage that’s a few months down the line, or to get ready for a season of sailing.

First, we have a look at Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Routes, a staple reference guide for cruisers. While a great resource, this book is a, “comprehensive guide to over 1,000 routes covering all the oceans of the world from the tropical South Seas to the high-latitudes of the Arctic and Antarctic” – all in some 600-odd pages. While it provides breadth, it is somewhat lacking in depth. It suffers to some degree from the source of data, which is a mix of pilot charts and books overlaid heavily with the personal experience of many seasoned cruisers. Since some areas are not frequented by cruisers for various reasons, they are often omitted (for example, the 1987 edition omitted Colombia, since it was so dangerous it seemed no one cruised there). Also, since Cornell’s other endeavors (such as founding the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers [ARC]) have been long distance and circumnavigation focused, it often misses out on more coastal routes. Nonetheless, it is always our first stop for a broad overview.

Cornell does focus on the passage part of the planning and has virtually no information on local conditions to expect when you have arrived.

Regarding our plan to leave Panama, Cornell says, “Eastbound Passages from Panama can be extremely difficult at all times of the year, because of the prevailing direction of the winds and current” and that “better and more comfortable passages have been made in late spring or early summer”. Good to know.

Before Cornell wrote his guides, sailors relied on Ocean Passages for the World, publication NP136 from the British Admiralty. I think the 3rd edition of 1973 was the last to feature separate routing advice for sailing ships and power vessels (newer editions omit advice for sailing ships). It builds on the 1895, 1923 and 1960 editions and is the last Admiralty guide written for professional world sailors (the iron men in wooden ships). PDF versions can be found online and make interesting and instructive reading. While the sailing directions are directed for full rigged tall ships, they suit modern sailors because, although we may be able to sail upwind, none of us much like it. While I enjoy referring to it, I should note that its precision and brevity make Cornell look positively loquacious.

Next, we go shopping at the NGA store (National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency) is a support agency of the United States Department of Defense with the primary mission of collecting, analyzing, and distributing geospatial intelligence (GEOINT)). If the US Navy gave you command of a destroyer and said ‘go there’, the NGA would provide the travel guidebooks. The NGA annual budget is classified, but was estimated to be at least $4.9 billion in 2013. It is nice to be able to add that kind of horsepower to your cruising budget.

We get the Sailing Directions (Enroute) for our area (these include:

“detailed coastal and port approach information, supplementing the largest scale chart of the area). Each publication is subdivided into geographic regions, called sectors, which contain information about the coastal weather, currents, ice, dangers, features and ports, as well as graphic keys to standard [MIMA/DMA] nautical charts available for the area.”

They have some photos, and some sketch charts. While mainly designed for much larger vessels, they are very handy. After the introductory chapter, the detailed description of the region begins. A map/chart precedes each chapter and outlines the nautical charts used in the area to be discussed. In these chapters, as much as possible, the coastal description is in geographic sequence and gazettes the coastline, ports, anchorages, navigation aids and hazards. These are fairly current: it is unusual to find one that hasn’t been updated in the last six months or so. For example, the 2017 Publication 148 was corrected (updated) through 26 September 2020 when I downloaded it in December 2020. Similar ADMIRALTY Sailing Directions are available from the UK Hydrographic Office, but they are priced at Hardback Paper Publication: £63.50, Electronic version (AENP): £38.70 per volume, so we don’t use those.

Both publications have some information on local conditions along the coast and note currents and weather systems with much more detail than other readily available sources.

For the western Caribbean, where Avant is now, the Sailing Directions (Enroute) tell us:

“The prevailing winds are the NE trades, which frequently assume a N or E direction, also a gusty character close inshore. These winds flow strongly from December to March”

and

“During the dry season [December to March], the winds are stronger”

and

“During the dry season, the wind may freshen to a velocity of 15 knots in the vicinity of the Panama Canal, but frequently exceeds 20 knots for a period of 24 hours or more. During the wet season in the same locality, the average wind velocity is about 8 knots, but greater velocities are experienced during passing local rain squalls.”

Hmmm. We are not fans of sailing to weather in strong or gusty winds; spring sounds much better.

We also get the Sailing Directions (Planning Guides) (these include, “relevant physical, political, industrial, navigational and regulatory information about the countries adjacent to a particular ocean basin in a single volume”). The information on each country is contained in a page or two. These are not hugely useful, but they do list national holidays and Search and Rescue (SAR) contact information for each country. You generally do not want to arrive on a holiday with the attendant overtime port fees, and while you don’t want to have to call SAR, if you do need to, it’s nice to have the number.

While you are in the NGA shop, you may as well get some other e-books that may be handy – the latest American Practical Navigator (Bowditch), the latest International Code of Signals (revised 2020 – you do have the new edition aboard, don’t you?), etc.
We want to review the Pilot Charts which:

“depict averages in prevailing winds and currents, air and sea temperatures, wave heights, ice limits, visibility, barometric pressure, and weather conditions at different times of the year. The information used to compile these averages was obtained from oceanographic and meteorologic observations over many decades during the late 18th and 19th centuries. The Atlas of Pilot Charts set is comprised of five volumes, each covering a specific geographic region. Each volume is an atlas of twelve pilot charts, each depicting the observed conditions for a particular month of any given year. The charts are intended to aid the navigator in selecting the fastest and safest routes with regards to the expected weather and ocean conditions.”

There are three main ways to get these, by:

  1. Buying paper copies at a chart dealer or online. (This is expensive and inconvenient, and a set is heavy to carry around for the use they get. They are rarely updated, however, so they will be current for many years). They are about $45.00 US per volume, plus shipping.
  2. Downloading the free PDF versions at the NGA. These are big PDF files, and some computers have difficulty managing them well. They are faithful copies of the paper charts and contain all the data.
  3. Downloading the free versions converted to *.BSB files for use within OpenCPN. The Chart Groups feature in OpenCPN is ideally suited for viewing and organizing Pilot Charts, but its often difficult to see the chart and the explanatory text or notes at the same time.

The downside of pilot charts is that they have been developed over many years and use data reaching back at least 100 years. Since a lot of the data is from pre-satellite times, they are primarily based on data derived from shipboard observations: since ships try to avoid areas of inclement weather, the observations tend to under-report gales and high waves, and the data quality for rarely travelled routes is poorer. The upside is that they combine a huge amount of data (tens of thousands of data points, if not millions combined in a very comprehensible format: wind, waves, currents, storm tracks, and more on a single page).

Here’s a view of the Pilot Chart for the western Caribbean in January:

Where the red arrow is (just North of Santa Marta Colombia) is the region with the strongest average winds, about 23 knots. Because the data is digital, we can move our cursor around to see the average winds are almost exactly 20 knots throughout the region, which makes a bit of a difference from the 17-21 in the pilot charts. Remember, if the average wind is 20 knots, about ½ the time it is stronger than that and about ½ the time it is less.

We also like to root around a bit in satellite data sets. You can review years of data for many satellites with disparate data sets at the NOAA portal. I don’t know what the combined budget is for this satellite array, but it’s a nice data set to have access to for free.

For example, if we want to know what the waves were like in the western Caribbean, January 2020 mid-month we go to this data set and can extract wave height data:

Hmmm . . . up to about 20-22’. That puts the fun meter pretty deep in the red, we should probably look at another month for that passage.

We can also go to this data set and extract the satellite wind data for the same date:

Positively sporty, that is. I’m not liking January for voyaging in the Western Caribbean.

We also try to find cruising guides. Cruising guides for different areas in the world vary tremendously in quality, and many are out of date. For some areas, they’re just not available. We have also found errors in waypoints and just plain bad advice in some, so do check the data and be careful. As Ronald Reagan said, “trust, but verify”. Sometimes you can find cruisers going ‘the other way’ that you can trade guidebooks and check guidebook reviews with.

I spend the time to find or make satellite charts for the cruising area to use in conjunction with OpenCPN, and download satellite views to the OvitalMap application on our tablets and in SASPlanet on our PC for reference. We get at least large-scale paper charts to carry aboard (which we have never used but carry ‘just in case’). Last time I checked, the best deal was at Frugal Navigator, at about $16.00 per chart for DMA charts. For some more travelled areas, chart books are available and make a cost-effective alternative.

We also look for rallies and races in our area of interest as their websites often have good local intel (fleet briefing documents, weather synopses, lists of marine facilities, etc.). We join rallies if their interests coincide with ours, but generally avoid those that have a ‘fleet’ approach with all vessels sailing in ‘convoy’ with set departure dates, since we like to pick our own weather windows. So, sailing down the coast we looked at the website for the Baja Haha and didn’t join up, but we did join the Panama Posse since it seemed useful. In the Pacific, the Single Handed Transpac, the Pac Cup, and the Vic-Maui are good sources; in the Atlantic, the ARC (westbound) and ARC Europe (eastbound) have some useful bits. These rallies and races give you a means to meet cruisers in the area and get up-to-the-minute local knowledge from people in the area, and often offer discounts at marinas and similar places of interest.

We round out our research by looking for cruising blogs on the internet, seeking out Facebook groups for specific cruising areas, and looking at the Center for Disease Control website for health information, and UK and USA consular sites for information on safety. While some of the safety advice seems histrionic, it can be useful to have a relative gauge of what to expect in each area. The Canadian consular sites are usually not as good or up to date simply because we have fewer diplomats abroad.

To prepare for time ashore we may look at general travel guides such as the Barefoot guides or the Lonely Planet guides (printed or online), trip advisor, reviews in google maps, etc. We also download offline accessible street maps to our phones and tablets in Google Maps or another app (like Maps.me) for navigation in our land-based adventures.

Generally, gathering all this research takes an afternoon or perhaps a day (except for making the satellite charts, which can take a lot longer), then reviewing and sorting our ideas on when and where we want to move can be done at our leisure.

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ROUTE PLANNING STRATEGIES!