FIJIAN CULTURE AND THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

FIJI: THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

In traditional villages in Fiji Sevusevu is and has been the central component of all life-cycle rituals, social gatherings, healing ceremonies and community meetings. Significant and ancient in Fiji, the “sevusevu” also marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village.

In more formal settings, Sevusevu includes a complete performance where each male from the village has a specific role to play. Traditional attire is worn with pride, collected rain water is poured from bamboo shafts, pounded kava is strained through hibiscus bark and each bilo (drinking bowl from the half-shell of a coconut) is delivered deliberately and seriously in absolute silence (aside from the sound of deep ‘Cobo’ claps in acceptance and thanks of each ‘bilo’)

Every Sevusevu is not as formal as pictured above however there is a distinct and courteous process visitors must follow. Further, understanding the significance of Sevusevu, respecting, and adhering to the tradition of this process helps to keep this aspect of Fijian Culture strong.

Longtime Ocean Posse member Chris on SV SEAGLUB has been living in Fiji for several years. He shares the following about his experience with the Sevesevu:

In Fiji, when visiting smaller settlements, a visitor must seek out the village chief and present him with a small token or gift as a sign of respect and to ask permission to visit. This not only gives visitors permission to interact with the villagers but also to stay in the town and to visit any local scenery (such as beaches, waterfalls etc). Not doing so shows disrespect for their culture, but is also the equivalent of trespassing – for example pitching a tent in someone's backyard without permission.

‘Sevusevu’ is the name given to the actual gift or token that visitors present the chief with, most commonly a half-kilo bumdle of waka (kava root). When arriving in the village, visitors should ask for the Turaga ni Koro (pronounced as too-ranga nee koro) or the village headman, as they usually have good English skills and will help with the translations. The headman will take visitors to the chief’s house for introduction. Remember no hats are to be worn once in the village and you should take your shoes off at the door before entering houses. Sitting cross legged on the floor, the kava root is then presented to the chief.

To ensure you are respectful of this important tradition, there are a few points of etiquette to follow. Firstly, everyone at the ceremony should dress in a sulu, which is a Fijian skirt regarded as their national dress. Women should also cover their shoulders. Men should sit cross-legged, ensuring that their sulu covers their knees, and women should sit with knees and feet together. Do not take photographs or videos throughout the ceremony, until the Turaga ni Koro lets you know that it’s okay to do so. Silence during the ceremony itself is crucial.

The ceremony itself is poignant. Afterwards you'll be welcomed as nothing less than family.

SV SEAGLUB 🇺🇸 Chris -Hylas 46'

by EDITOR

PASSAGE REPORT TO PANAMA FROM COLUMBIA

PASSAGE REPORT TO PANAMA FROM COLUMBIA:

with Check-In Procedure at El Porvenir

After sailing for 2 days from Columbia, SV ATARAXIA is ready to drop the hook and listen to the wind in the palm fronds.

Recently, SV ATARAXIA sailed from northern Columbia to Panama. They wanted to visit a very unique and special part of Panama: the Guna Yala Archipelago, also known as the San Blas Islands before. The Archipelago is in northeastern Panamanian waters and is home to the Guna (or Kuna) Yala people, the largest Panamanian indigenous group. The archipelago is known for being a jewel of Panama with palm covered islands amid clear turquoise water.

SV ATARAXIA wanted to visit this archipelago upon entering Panamanian waters pushing on to the more formal and bustling city of Colon on Panama's mainland, at the northern end of the Panama Canal. Below Skipper Ludwig shares from his passage notes their experience entering Panama through El Porvenir:

Well, we were right : you should have come. Guna Yala is really beautiful.

We left Cartagena de Indias, Colombia 2 days ago and last night was a pretty calm night. We sailed under main alone and we still were making good enough speed that we had to turn a circle at sea before entering El Porvenir, allowing us to come in during daylight.

We anchored and went ashore to ask where immigration was. El Porvenir is in fact just 1 airstrip for small planes and that explains why there is immigration. But first you need to visit the Comarca Guna Yala congresso office to pay to the indigenous people that own these islands for a ‘cruising permit’, something like an entry fee for paradise. Then it is on to the immigration office. Given there are only 2 buildings or rather structures, it wasn’t all that difficult to find even if you hadn’t slept much the previous night.

When it was finally our turn to be cleared in, all we needed was some extra photocopies (conveniently available at the congresso for 50 cts) and we got our immigration stamps. What about customs? “Go and do that in Colon” we were told. OK, nothing can be perfect not even in paradise.

Noonsite says that you can clear immigration in El Porvenir, and indeed they do. They stamp both your passport and your exit zarpe from Colombia. It looks like a stamp is the only thing they have, so they do not produce any paper, they just....stamp. We had our agent, Erick Galvez request a cruising permit for us beforehand. In fact, we set that in motion a month before arriving in Panama. It still wasn't ready when we got to El Porvenir, an unusual slow process that has since (we were there early June 2024) been sped up. Either way, we were assured by every instance be it official or non-official that our immigration stamps were really the critical ones and we had those! We received our cruising permit while we were back in the USA and our boat on the hard. While this sounds 'different' from other places, to the Panamanians it seemed pretty obvious. And every single official was friendly, ...and so were we.

While we were anchoring at first light, 2 canoes with Guna women were paddling towards us. We had some trouble finding the right spot to anchor and so these ladies had their rowing workout cut out for them, chasing ATARAXIA.

It is not my preferred thing to do, bartering over molas or other stuff after being awake for half a night, but it was clear these ladies were not going to give up, so we have some very nice molas already to fly home with us.

Molas are typically hand sewn, fabric, works of art that are worn by Guna Yala women and represent protective connection with the spirit world. Selling molas to tourists has become big part of their economy.

Then we moved the boat to Lemon Cays, one of these smaller archipelagoes where all the islands end in ‘dup’ (Bandup, Nuriandup or some other tongue twister). Upon arrival we were greeted by a canoe with 3 fishermen who held up a lobster in the international language of trade. We signaled to hold off a bit so that we could anchor but once that was out of the way, we bought 4 lobster for 5USD per piece. We didn’t even try to get a lower price. With that, you know what Louis, our crew-chef is working on right now.

Time for the restless to go and explore the underwater world and they came back with all the wonderful things they saw including a shark (a real one, not a nurse shark). While they were doing that, I stayed back to defend the fort, hey someone got to do it, and sure enough we were invaded by a clever bird that flew into the cabin, picked open the plastic packaging of a baguette and decided those baguettes are really good. I agreed and therefore I chased him away. We want to eat that baguette (at least the other part of it).

We intend to stay 2 nights here in this anchorage as there is a lot more to explore.

SV ATARAXIA Ludwig – Etap Yachting 46’

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE LUDWIG!

by EDITOR