NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES
⚠️ NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES ⚠️
Captains and crew aboard cruising vessels are wise to be on constant alert day or night. Night Passages are inherently more dangerous than daytime passages due to a distinct change in how we see and what we do and do not see in the darkness. Passages made between sunset and sunrise have a particular set of best practices that are important to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Please review the following list and consider what you can do to make every night passage safe and thereby fun.
- Before the onset of darkness prep topsides. Make sure everything is well stowed or tied down. If sailing, choose a comfortable and prudent sail configuration.
- Consult all navigational charts along your planned course. Be sure to zoom in to look for any rocks or obstructions that may only be visible on a closer look. Additionally, navigating coastal and offshore waters along the Ocean Posse routes outside of US Waterways mariners will find places where the charts do not match up with the actual contour of the land and sea. Being aware of this as a fact is imperative to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Charts are not always GPS accurate. Use multiple sources of information like radar, OpenCPN, and Sat charts as an additional aid to navigation.
- Set a watch schedule and make sure that everyone on watch understands how to use navigational and safety equipment including AIS.
- If entering or leaving an anchorage, harbor, or port be sure to give a wide berth to headlands.
- Run radar, throughout the night. If possible overlay your radar image over your electronic chart to verify both with one another. If there is a discrepancy, trust the radar over the electronic chart. The radar is also great for looking for squalls.
- Check for other marine traffic. If your vessel is equipped with and AIS make sure everyone on watch knows how to use it to see other vessels that may be in your range or on your course. Note: Not every vessel on the ocean is equipped with AIS so this equipment, while an exceptional safety advancement, does not take the place of visually scanning the area for lights or shapes on the water.
- Know how to read navigational and ship lights at night. There are international rules on light color and placement aboard vessels of different sizes carrying different loads. The lights will show what part of the vessel is in view and the direction of travel.
- Objects at night have come up a lot faster.
Be aware, be cautious, be vigilant, and, most importantly,
be safe so you can enjoy all your sunrises and sunsets out at sea.
by Maurisa Descheemaeker, Ocean Posse editor
AZORES CREATES LARGEST MARINE PROTECTED AREA IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AZORES 
CREATES LARGEST
MARINE PROTECTED AREA
Cruising the Azores Just Got Better
The Azores, an archipelago situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, is a sailor’s paradise. Comprised of nine volcanic islands, underwater mountain ranges, and rich biodiversity on land and in the surrounding sea this autonomous region of Portuguese territory offers a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, rich culture, and ideal sailing conditions. For yachts and sailboats, cruising the Azores provides an opportunity to explore unspoiled nature, vibrant communities, and a wide array of maritime experiences. The islands are about 900 nautical miles west of mainland Portugal, making them accessible from both Europe and North America. Navigation in the Azores is generally straightforward, thanks to well-marked channels and reliable nautical charts. However, sailors should be prepared for variable weather conditions and the occasional challenge posed by the archipelago’s volcanic topography. The nine islands are divided into three groups: the Eastern Group (São Miguel and Santa Maria), the Central Group (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico, and Faial), and the Western Group (Flores and Corvo). Each group offers distinct attractions and cruising experiences.
Last year a global pact was adopted by the United Nations to protect 30% of the Earth's land and sea by 2030. This month, the a regional assembly of Portugal's Azures Islands took the leading step towards this goal by designating expansive marine protection which now represents the largest Marine Protected Area in the North Atlantic. The protection creates two areas: a fully protected area of sea marking it as a safe haven for biodiversity and natural resources, and a highly protected area of sea surrounding the islands. The distinction being that in the latter selective and light fishing is permitted.
World leaders are gathered this week in Columbia for the UN Biodiversity Conference COP16 and this recent announcement by the Azures will hopefully be an inspiration to other nations to make strides to protect their 30% of the earth's land and sea that they can to preserve the world's biodiversity. According to Oceanographic Magazine, "Marine Protected Areas are widely recognized as the most effective tool in the global effort to reverse biodiversity loss and build ocean resilience against climate change. The Azores leadership has been earmarked by commentators as ‘particularly inspiring’ given that only 2.8% of the world’s oceans are currently fully or highly protected.
A report issued by Greenpeace International earlier this week warns that at the current rate of development in ocean protection, the United Nations stands to miss its critical 2030 target by a full eight decades. This means the ambitions of the 30×30 target – at the current pace of success – won’t be realized until 2107."
José Manuel Bolieiro, president of the Regional Government of the Azores said, “The Azores has long been known for its unique ocean nature, and with this decision, we are driving the way forward to a productive, vibrant ocean. The sea is an integral part of our collective identity, being vital socially, culturally, and economically. We are committed to protect and recover our ocean to support a healthy blue economy. Our decision through a science-based and participatory process leading to the protection of 30% of our seas serves as an example that other regions must follow now to ensure the future health of the planet.”
The process by which the Regional Government of Azores achieved this protection may also be an example to other nations. This decision was not made by an authoritarian ruler at the expense of livelihoods and local sustainability. Rather the decision to create the largest marine protection area in North America was reached through "an extensive participatory process". This process included over 40 meetings with representatives from various sectors, including those within fishing, maritime transport, maritime tourism, and environmental non-governmental organizations.
“The result was the collaborative design of a network of marine protected areas that benefits people, nature, and the economy, based on the best available science in the region,” said representatives of the Azores.
Cruising the Azores with the new Marine Protected Area offers an unparalleled yachting and sailing adventure. The archipelago’s diverse landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and excellent sailing conditions make it a premier destination for sailors. Whether exploring the historical streets of Angra do Heroísmo, hiking the volcanic trails of Pico, or enjoying the serene beauty of Graciosa, the Azores provide a wealth of experiences for every sailor. Navigating these enchanting islands requires preparation and respect for the natural environment, but the rewards are well worth the effort. The Azores’ unique blend of maritime tradition, natural beauty, and welcoming communities ensure that every cruise is a memorable journey.
DISCOVERING MAKATEA THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
DISCOVERING MAKATEA 
THE WORLD'S TALLEST ATOLL
By Maurisa Descheemaeker of. SV WHIRLWIND
The Tuamotus are 1 of the 5 archipelagos that make up French Polynesia. The Tuamotus are typically characterized by low lying fringing reefs surrounding a lagoon. Typically, the fringing reef is made up of a relatively narrow run of sand, limestone (ancient coral reef), living and dead coral reef, coconut palms, Oyster farms, small huas (or shallow channels) where the ocean may flow in and out with the tide. Many of the Tuamotus have small villages with declining populations spread out on a broad stretch of the reef. Most of the Tuamotus have at least one main Pass (or break in the reef) where vessels enter and exit the lagoon. The passes and huas are natural channels through the reef where nutrients flood in and out twice a day. The water is typically exceptionally clear in the passes and a favorite ‘pass-time’ on SV WHIRLWIND is drifting on the incoming tide with mask and snorkel from the outer edge into the atoll admiring coral and tropical fish big and small. On the outside the ocean glows deep infinity blue and on the inside the lagoon glimmers unbelievably with a turquoise rainbow of aquamarine cerulean blues.
While all this is pretty typical of the Tuamotus, the atolls are far from commonplace and we have enjoyed their uniqueness anew with each island and each drift. 40 nm to the west of the rest of the archipelago we recently discovered the most unique outlying island among the Tuamotus: Makatea. This atoll is nothing like any of the other Tuamotus we visited. Granted it was like the other Tuamotus…millions of years ago… before it floated over shifting plates in the ocean and was thrust above sea level. Makatea notably stands as the world tallest atoll rising in some places up to 320 feet above sea level. While there is no calm turquoise lagoon on the inside, there is a broad depression on the interior of the island (where there once was a lagoon?!) and there is a dramatic fringing reef of sand, limestone, coral, and coconut palms set at the base of dramatic, vertical, limestone cliffs. The water surrounding the island is incredibly clear and the visibility is tremendous.
Makatea came into view as the sun rose after a night of sailing from Rangiroa. It was rather romantic from the start: a dark mass looming out of he ocean, the smell of earth, not just flowers and fruit, but the smell of actual earthen dirt. We watched a mother and baby pair of Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales moving along the coast across our bow in the sunrise.
On the northwest side, in the lee of the island and the regions typical SE trade winds, there are anywhere from 2-6 moorings anchored 25-50 meters deep near the entrance to the small harbor. The moorings are difficult to find, examine, and maintain. Although they are cared for by the joint efforts of passing cruisers and locals, they require specialized, deep water materials, tools, and techniques that are not always readily available. With the help of some friends, we caught a mooring and sat, our mouths agape as we took in the precarious balance of floating between a mooring an a reef. We marveled at the scene. While both the wind and swell were greatly diminished in the lee of the island there was still a decent swell rolling onto the shores of Makatea. WHIRLWIND would go up and down, to and fro with the swell without moving into the break or crashing onshore. It was a bit surreal to get used to being simultaneously so close to shore and sitting so steadily just off the shore. Mike did not leave the boat for two days gaining confidence in the motion on the mooring. (Thank you Captain!).
The moorings are anchored 50-70 meters from the shore on a steeply sloping reef in an assortment of old anchor tackle from a time that has come and gone from these shores. A time when Makatea was the wealthiest and most modern island in the region. A time when the people of Makatea had electricity and microwave ovens while the people of Tahiti were still cooking in earthen ovens. A time when Makatea had over 3000 residents, a stark contrast to today’s population somewhere between 60&80.
Looking ashore we could not help but wonder over the time, life, and industry that has come and gone from Makatea. The cliffs from sea level to the top of the plateau are impressively steep and exposed with interesting cave-like openings and deep cracks. There are iron canons and anchors set along the outer edge of the reef, there are concrete forms large and small, some stout, others beat and battered in neat rows with twists and turns, and there are rusty metal roofs poking out of the thick green cliffs over the Port area, vestiges of big industry.
It turns out that among Makatea’s unique geology was a subsoil that contained rich and especially pure phosphate deposits. Supposedly, there were rumors of the phosphate on Makatea in the late 1800’s. The phosphate was analyzed and identified as some of the purest phosphate in the world in the early 1900’s. Shortly thereafter a company, Compaignie Francaise des Phosphates de l’Oceanie (CFPO) was set up and won the monopolistic concessions for phosphate extraction in Makatea. The mining industry was quickly established. Mechanization of the extraction was not possible so for 60 years the phosphate was hand dug and moved by wheel barrows away from the extraction site. Mechanization was employed in the moving of the ore around and off the island. According to Ivan Sache, “For more than 15 years, phosphate was the main export product of French Polynesia bringing more than 75% of the amount of foreign currency received by the territory. At it’s peak the Makatea operation represented nearly 30% of the salaries in the private sector in French Polynesia: taxes paid by CFPO represented 25% of the territory’s income.”
And then in 1966 phosphate extraction stopped, the company pulled off the island in a matter of weeks, and left all their equipment and materials behind. During the 60 years of mining one third of the island was excavated. An industrial village spawned and turned to ghosts. People came and people went. Everything from machinery to sheds to railways were left where they were. The jungle got to work: vines split roofs from rafters, roots worked foundations apart. Nature was free to begin the steady process of concealing the past from the present.
A real intriguing mystery is what lays deeper in the layers of natures concealment. The rich soil of Makatea is host to a heathy lot of flora and fauna now and yet people say that before the mining Makatea had huge trees, large bird populations, a healthy coral reef teaming with fish, and archeological sites from pre-European times that have all but vanished. One Marae is said to be preserved but we did not get to see it to so firm or deny this.
While a lot changed on Makatea in it’s mining heyday, there was never an airport and you can still only get to Makatea by boat. It’s isolation lends itself to peace and quiet like very few places on earth can truly boast. Over the last 20 years, locals have begun to envision Makatea anew as a sustainable eco-tourist destination. Locals are making strides to recreate prosperity in new ways by developing tours and outdoor opportunities for visitors to enjoy the unique natural features that make Makatea so special. There are several people who offer different tours featuring climbing, caving, swimming, hiking, snorkeling, fishing, biking. The goal is to develop tourism and nurture the islands natural and cultural heritage.
Without knowing too much about it, the crew of SV WHIRLWIND went on a climbing and caving tour one day with Tapu from Makatea Escalade. This excursion is hereby on a unanimous short list of favorite adventures we have been on since setting out on this voyage in 2018. The day was set to his light and lively Polynesian music as he took us to his storage shop to suit up with well kept climbing shoes, harness, clips and helmet. We went to two Via Ferratas with multiple bridges, incredible views, and a zip-line. We top rope rock climbed and hike to a large cave with Chrystal clear sweet water for a swim and deeply refreshing cooldown. I was amazed by the relaxed vibe, the grand beauty, and the friendly pace of the day that was well suited to our group of 6 ages 11-50.
The climbing scene on Makatea is pretty exciting because is is lead by Tapu who grew up on Makatea. His parents grew up on the island, and his parents parents before them as well. He says that Makatea has been home to Polynesians since 800AD, well before European exploration of the South Pacific and the 60 year phosphate mining era. Now that the mining is over it Tapu and others are striving to bring life back to the island while also giving unforgettable life experiences to the people that visit. I felt it: the beauty and the energy , it was life giving.
The idea to develop climbing to the cliffs on Makatea was hatched in 2018. Over the next few years, grants were made and awarded, several world-class climbers came out, well respected companies in the industry like Petzl and ArcTeryx donated gear, and the first routes were put in. The climbing dream is still being realized and I wish Tapu and his fellow Makateans the best as they forge this new path into the future. May their path be sustainable while benefiting the community and the island. So far, it looks good!
Check out Makatea Escalades Facebook page for contact, event, and tour info.
SV WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea - Alajeula 48'
POSSE PERK: FREE PRINTABLE REFERENCE CHARTS
POSSE PERK: 🗺️ FREE PRINTABLE REFERENCE CHARTS
*Emergency Backup To Your Electronics*
Paper charts are an excellent navigational aid ESPECIALLY if electronics fail. An Ocean Posse Perk gives members access to printable charts along the main routes of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.
Printable Charts are also available in the Atlantic and many European countries.
IN THE OCEAN POSSE YOU CAN SAIL YOUR OWN SCHEDULE
WITH HARD COPY CHARTS
AVAILABLE FOR PRINT TO ALL MEMBERS
ROOTS OF THE DAY OF THE DEAD TODAY
ROOTS OF THE DIA DE LOS MUERTOS:
DAY OF THE DEAD CELEBRATION TODAY
Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead is a Mexican holiday celebrated throughout Mexico (particularly in Central and Southern Mexico) over a two day period: November 1st (Dia de los Angelitos dedicated to deceased children) and 2nd (Dia de los Muertos dedicated to deceased adults). Today, Dia day Los Muertos is celebrated by people of Mexican heritage elsewhere throughout the world as well. The multi-day holiday involves family and friends gathering to pray for, remember, and honor friends and family members who have died. Today, traditions connected with the holiday include building altars called ofrendas. Oferendas are build in people's homes or in public spaces. During this time people also visit cemeteries to clean the gravesite or headstone of a deceased loved one and decorate their grave with gifts such as calaveras (skulls), calacas (skulls), strings of marigolds, the favorite foods and beverages of the departed. Visitors also leave possessions of the deceased at the graves. In some regions there are parades and women dress as Catrinas in lavish gowns, their faces painted. The parades include music and performance dancing. Today, Dia De Los Muertos is a time for those in the mortal realm to help support the spiritual journey of the dead. In Mexican culture, death is viewed as a natural part of the human cycle. Mexicans view this holiday not as a day of sadness, but as a day of celebration.
The Dia De Los Muertos holiday of today is a product of the different faiths and traditions of both indigenous people of Mexico (dating back thousands of years), Roman Catholicisim (dating back hundreds of years), and modern culture mixing over time. In the case of celebrating life and death in today's Dia de los Muertos, the roots of these indigenous and traditional beliefs go back thousands of years to indigenous Aztec people of what is now central and southern Mexico. The Aztecs did not see death as the end of one's existence, rather, another stage of one's life. One can not live without death and one cannot die without living. It is thought that they believed that the realm of the living world, the divine, and the spirit world all exist. Originally, Día de los Muertos was the entire ninth month of the Aztec calendar. The Aztecs dedicated the month to honoring both the people that would reincarnate as well as the god that allowed humans to reincarnate. In particular, they honored the god Mictlantecuhtli. The festivities celebrating it were known as Miccailhuitontli or Huey Micailhuitl, which translates to ‘The Great Feast of the Dead’.
According to the Great Nahuatl Dictionary, Mictlán means underworld. Others translate MICTLÁN as “place of the dead.” Different legends, visual representations and ancient codices define Mictlán as an unknown, dangerous and dark place, which has nine levels. In this worldview, the Earth was considered a being that devoured the flesh of the deceased. At the time of death, the deceased was thought to be paying off their debt with the Earth, since when they died, they gave continuity to the cycle of the universe. These nine levels are related to rot, fetid, cold, damp, watery, darkness, and night. The animals related to the Mictlán were owls, bats, worms and centipedes, which were in the service of Mictlantecuhtli and his consort Mictecacíhuatl.
The Nine Levels:
1. Itzcuintlan
Place of the dogs
2. Tepectli monamictlan
Place of the hills that come together
3. Iztepetl
Hills of the very sharp flints
4. Itzehecayan
Place of the obsidian wind
5. Paniecatacoyan
Place where people fly like flags
6. Timiminaloayan
Place where people are smitten
7. Teocoyohuehualoyan
Where the jaguars eat your heart
8. Izmictlan Apochcalolca
Smoke water lagoon
9. Chicunamictla
The nine waters.
Death was seen in the underworld of the Aztec world view where much transpires. Over thousands of years this worldview has maintained life in the spirituality if indigenous people of Mexico. 500 years ago, when the Spanish empire colonized what is now Mexico they brought with them Catholicism and made a devout effort to introduce and convert indigenous people to this faith and view of the world. Churches were built and people were brought into the Catholic religion. Catholicism celebrates All Saints’ Day (November 1) and All Souls’ Day (November 2), both of which also commemorate those who have passed. These celebrations commemorating those that have passed is an area in which the Catholic faith and the indigenous faith found common ground. It's a syncretism, where indigenous religious practices have merged with the Christian belief systems introduced, or opposed, by the Spanish during the colonial era. There are actually many examples of syncretism throughout Mexico, most notably found at the main church in San Juan de Chamula in Chiapas. While the details and beliefs around death and the afterlife diverge greatly the people of Mexico today have a celebration in Dia de los Muertos that has roots spanning thousands of years of indigenous spirituality, hundreds of years or Catholic religious influence, and the modern constant of cultural expression.
PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
MV HO’OKIPA is cruising in the Baltic Sea. They keep record of their voyage and have shared with the Ocean Posse a part of their recent journey from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel Germany with many stops along the way. Thank you Ho’okipa for this window into cruising in the Baltic Sea: the beauty, the oops'ies, the lessons and the realities along the way. Below is a screenshot of their track. To zoom in on their various spots follow this link.
MV HO’OKIPA writes:
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN TO KIEL, GERMANY
Sunday September 1st, 2024 From Stockholm we headed back out to the archipelago the way we came in and headed to an anchorage, Soviken. It’s 52 nm. It takes us 7 hrs. 10 min at 7.25 knots average speed. Location: 58 47 .603N 017 51.050E It’s a secluded anchorage with protection from the no. winds. The chart was confusing, and we almost went into an area thinking that was the anchorage. It was a shallow area and had we kept going it would have been terrible, rocks everywhere. Luckily, our instincts told us to drop anchor where we were in 24 ft. When in doubt don’t do it.
The next morning cruise forty miles to Harstena Flisjarden. Instead of going down the coast we are going to go across the bay (about 3.5 hours) where Norrkoping is and directly to these islands east of Valdemarsvik. Per usual, as we have come to learn, we must pass through a narrow shallow cut to get to the deeper bay and anchorage. 58 15 .659N 017 09. 491E Stunning place. In the summer, this place will have 50 boats. Thankfully, there are just 3 others now. It’s a big enough bay that we all have room and privacy. It felt like being on a lake in the Sierras with the pine trees and rock outcrops. We did notice jelly fish surrounding our boat, just like the previous anchorage. They appear to be ones that do not sting. Of course, with the cold-water temperature I am not going swimming in any case.
Choppy today with 2-3 ft swell. Had to find a protected anchorage. We opt for Mjödö around some islands along the mainland. Requires following the buoy system through the shallow waters. 40 nm takes 6 hrs. 34 min. average speed 6.13kts. 57 46.809N 016 41.586E It’s empty of course as the season is over. But clearly a summer camp area. We normally would spend more time at these anchorages and meander more. However, the season has ended and although the weather has been unusually nice, we must be in Malmö, Sweden Sept 19th where we have an appointment with Swedish Immigration to apply for a temporary resident permit. Plus, we need the transformer work done and the European rep must meet us and do the work before September 28th.
In the morning, we continued south about 40 nm to an anchorage in Tillingeo. It’s near a port and lies off a quaint suburban area. We anchor i20 feet in a small cove. 57 16 .833N 016 29 463E
Depart early to head south but the anchor caught on a buried cable. Had to spin the boat 360 degrees to detach. Was a little unnerving. Could have been a big problem. Of course, had we looked at the chart carefully we would have seen the symbol for a cable running right under where we anchored. Good lesson. That’s what that means. Don’t anchor near a cable as you may hook your anchor around it. Doink!
Heading to Kalmar, an old historic walled town on the coast. It’s 42.8 nm, 6 hours at 7kts. 56 39.614N 016 21.907E We get a slip for 2 nights (660 SEK. Or $33 a night) alongside the dock at the small marina near the center of old town with its cobblestone streets. It’s a quaint town, and the castle with its moat are walking distance from the marina.
We learn that the marina in Copenhagen cannot import the transformer and ensure that the VAT is waived. The European rep suggests we have the work done in Germany, where he’s from, and that we will not have to pay the VAT in Germany. On his advice we have the transformer shipped to Kiel, Germany and we will now head there for the installation.
Saturday September 7, 2024, We leave Kalmar. We decide to go all the way to Utklippan, a tiny island off Sweden. About 51nm. Tomorrow, we think we will head to Bornholm Island which is part of Denmark and stay there until the rough weather heading this way passes. Then we will press on to the German coast. Utklippan is just a rock posing as an islet. You can walk around it in minutes except when the tiny harbor is in the way. There is a very narrow walled entrance (100ft wide) to the outer small harbor and then a slit into the inner harbor which is even smaller. Very intimidating. We must tie up along the cement dock which is high. The cleats are big bollards. It’s windy but sheltered. 55 57 .284N 015 42.218E
Weather is moving in so in the morning we make straight for Borlholm Island and the town of Hasle on the west coast. 55 11.211N 014 42.209E It’s 60.58nm and takes 9 hr. 4 min. at 6.68 kts average speed. This Danish island is in the Baltic Sea southeast of Sweden north of Germany. There is a small marina at Hasle, a fishing town that was once famous for its smoked fish houses. We can pay for the slip using a credit card at the machine by the Kiosk. $62 a night. There are a few other boats and a sauna across from the marina. We can easily walk to town. We stayed 4 nights to wait for a mild weather window to do the overnight passage to Kiel. The island is beautiful countryside with a few small towns. We get the motorcycle down and explore. Tour a small glass blowing factory and artisan studio, dine at a traditional old fish smoke house, visit the main town of Ronne, and walked around its old cobblestone streets, and admire the old Lutheran Church with a stain glass window over the alter featuring a fishing boat.
Thursday Sept 12, 2024. The forecast was for 3-foot seas and winds to 14 knots with gusts 18. The problem was swell wind was on our nose. And the swell period was 3-4 seconds. Not great at all. Changed course to get a smoother ride and it was a 2-hour delay. The entire day was like this. I felt like we were not making headway. in the early afternoon, the autopilot went off. “Drive Stopped” error. Not good. While I was steering the boat, C went to trouble shoot and checked all the connections. Nothing. We have Starlink SAT connection so checked online and on a Raymarine Forum a tech said sometimes you can tap on the device with a mallet and get the sensor (?) brushes unstuck. Charles tried it and it worked!!! Lots of cargo ships, tankers and cruise liners are out. This is a major throughfare. Wind farms dot the coasts too. When it’s dark lights are everywhere from various ships, buoys, lighthouses. Took two-hour shifts at the helm. We had calm seas all night for which we were grateful.
We reached the start of the passage that takes us between Fehmarn Island and the main coast of Germany. Still not light enough to see but the Flir infrared camera helps, and the chart is spot on. We slow down to let the morning light pick up. Perfect timing. After passing the first set of buoys we could start to see the outlines of the green and red buoys that were not lit. The buoys are only spaced 350 feet apart. No other vessels. Going under bridges is fun. As soon as we got out of the gap the wind and swell picked up. Nice and choppy again but at least it’s not right on the nose. Spend the next couple of hours getting to the outskirts of Kiel and our Marina Rajhe. But first we had to avoid the German military area. I just happened to zoom in on the chart to see what all the dotted lines meant. It’s a danger zone with active military shooting exercises. We had to circle around it instead of a straight shot across the bay to the inlet that leads to the canal and the city of Kiel. Took an extra hour or so. Lots of sailboats and ships coming and going. Marina Rajhe is a mile west of the canal entrance which is a mile west of Kiel. We made it into the marina at 1300. 54 23.124N 010 09.979E
MV HO'OKIPA 🇺🇸 Lisa & Chuck - Selene 43'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES ON THE WATER IN THE BALTIC SEA!!
PASSAGE REPORT: SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
SV VIVA SHARES PASSAGE REPORT:
SAMOA TO WALLIS ISLAND
VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART ON CRUISING SEASON ON THE PACIFIC COAST
VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART
ON CRUISING SEASON IN MEXICO, COSTA RICA, & PANAMA
SY PERCEPTION 🇺🇸 Jim & Melinda & Grace - Lagoon 42'
SV ZORBA 
Tomer & Limor – Tayana 48’
FAIR WINDS
ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO
ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO
Hurricane Otis was the result of a tropical storm that rapidly intensified off the coast of Acapulco in October 2023. No one expected it and everyone was caught off-guard. In the dark of night three 20 foot waves came through the bay and destroyed everything. In one fell swoop the entire Acapulco Yacht Club was thrown on land. Four marinas were obliterated. Boats got swamped and sunk rapidly. 650 boats were destroyed or sunk. Some people escaped with their lives, others did not.
A longtime friend of the Posse, Vincente, who lived in the bay and managed several mooring buoys experienced a horrific tragedy. He and his wife, son, and grandson were sleeping aboard their boat the night Otis hit. His boat was among those quickly destroyed and sunk. He was the only one aboard who survived. The city was an absolute mess immediately following the Hurricane. Power, water, and cell towers were out and it took weeks to discover that Vincente had survived. Many Posse members pooled donations to help him and he was very grateful. The memorial for his loved ones is this weekend;
In the aftermath of Otis's devastation, the Mexican government sent in assistance to help lift the boats out of the bay and get the city out from under the rubble. It has been a long road and true to many Mexican coastal towns the spirit of recovery has gotten them far and, by the sounds of it, the people of Acapulco are still working to get their Port town back. We reached out to Vincente to see how he is doing and what he could share for Posse members cruising to Acapulco this season.
Vincente shares:
Buenas noches Capitán envío las respuestas a sus cuestionamientos que me fueron enviados:
A un año del huracan Otis le puedo decir que nos estamos recuperando lentamente en todos los aspectos y confiamos en que muy pronto tendremos el Acapulco de antes del Huracán Otis.
El turismo no a dejado de visitarnos tanto nacional como internacional poco pero siempre tenemos turismo en el Puerto.
La costa actualmente está bien dentro de lo que cabe.
La bahía en este momento puede recibir a todos los visitantes que vienen navegando y tenemos ya listas las bollas de amarre para darles un excelente servicio cuando sean requeridos.
Informo a usted que no fueron recuperados ninguno de los barcos porque el gobierno los retiró como chatarra.
Los amarres en la bahía se siguen gestionando a la hora que sean requeridos.
Informo a usted también que seguimos desembarcando en el mismo lugar de siempre.
Reafirmó a usted que quedó a sus órdenes para cualquier servicio o acciones en las cuales podamos apoyarlos anexo mi tarjeta y quedó a sus órdenes saludos
(TRANSLATION)
Good evening Captain, I am sending the answers to your questions that were sent to me:
A year after Hurricane Otis I can tell you that we are slowly recovering in all aspects and we trust that very soon we will have the Acapulco that we had before Hurricane Otis.
Tourism has not stopped visiting us, both nationally and internationally, but we always have tourism in the Port.
The coast is currently doing well within what is possible.
The bay can currently receive all the visitors who come sailing and we already have the mooring bollards ready to give them an excellent service when they are required.
I inform you that none of the boats were recovered because the government removed them as scrap.
The moorings in the bay are still being managed at the time they are required.
I also inform you that we continue to land in the same place as always.
I reaffirm to you that I remain at your service for any service or actions in which we can support you. I enclose my card and I remain at your service. Regards.
The financial toll of the storm is estimated to be between $12 billion and $16 billion, making it one of the most costly tropical cyclones in Mexico's history. The storm devastated the region, destroying over 51,000 homes, damaging more than 250,000 others, and displacing over 34,000 households. Additionally, around 80% of Acapulco’s hotels were affected, severely disrupting the local tourism industry, which is crucial to the region’s economy. Hurricane Otis caused significant damage to vessels, especially in Acapulco. The storm destroyed 480+ public tourist boats, and at least 33 vessels sank in Acapulco Bay. Additionally, some boats were rescued near Playa Manzanillo, and others were found in the bay of Puerto Marqués.
SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON OUTLOOK
SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON
NOVEMBER 1-APRIL 30
NEW OUTLOOK RELEASED
Tropical cyclones, like hurricanes, are known for their powerful winds, heavy rains, and potential to cause significant destruction. Tropical cyclones frequently affect the southern Pacific and can pose serious threats to both public health and infrastructure. All vessels are advised to have a plan of action for the cyclone season.
According to New Zealand's National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) and Metservice, the South Pacific may see either fewer or a normal number of tropical cyclones this season. The cyclone season in the South Pacific starts November 1 and runs until the April 30, with the typical 'peak' of the season being January - March. The outlook that has recently been released, "Southwest Pacific Tropical Cyclone Outlook - October 2024" describes a slower start to the Cyclone season, potentially less cyclone risk overall in the eastern region while potentially elevated risk in the western region. According to the NIWA Outlook, "As of early October 2024, sea surface temperatures across the eastern and central equatorial Pacific Ocean are below average and close to La Niña thresholds." Forecasters are observing more La Niña-like characteristics that tend to reduce risk in the east and elevate risk in the west where warmer water may 'stack up' later in the season. As with many weather outlooks of late there continues to be caution that while there may be less risk in the frequency of tropical storms this season, there is still a risk that those that come may intensify more rapidly or simply be very intense.
For cruisers in French Polynesia South Pacific Posse member Scott on Tartaruga shares:
What is critical to following storms in FP is the location of the MJO. Madden Julien Oscillation. You can research that but when that is over French Poly that is when the highest probability of big storms occur. Per some local Tahiti sailors they almost never have any cyclonic storms outside of MJO events. This last season Fiji announced the MJO forecast and when it would be over FP and boom the storms came. Also note that Fiji is the official metrological organization for these storms. Another important data point is they name their storms very early, mean the wind scale starts at a much lower number....NOAA tracks (the MJO) closely as well. I would educate yourself on how to read the graph. It is a bit strange.
Fiji Meteorological Service Regional Specialized Meteorological Centre Nadi-Tropical Cyclone Centre also just released a forecast on the upcoming tropical Cyclone season. Their predictions are similar.
Stay alert on great weather sites including:
- https://www.met.gov.fj/index.php?page=tcoutlook
- https://niwa.co.nz/climate-and-weather/southwest-pacific-tropical-cyclone-outlook/southwest-pacific-tropical-cyclone-outlook-october-2024