MUST SEE: CIUDAD PERDIDA (LOST CITY) COLUMBIA 🇨🇴

MUST SEE: CIUDAD PERDIDA

(LOST CITY) COLUMBIA 🇨🇴

Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a net of tiled roads and several small circular plazas.

Hidden deep in the jungle of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains in northern Colombia sits an archeological site called Ciudad Perdida, the “Lost City”.  Built by the Tairona people in 800AD predating Machu Pichu by over 600 years.  The Ciudad Perdida archaeological site only became an attraction after it was uncovered in the 1970s.

Los Sepúlveda was a small family of looters in Colombia; their story leads to the beginning of one of the greatest archaeological discoveries in modern times. The family went hunting in the forests of Colombia when they shot down a wild turkey. Upon retrieving the turkey, they noticed it had fallen on a piece of an exposed staircase. This staircase would lead them to find La Ciudad Perdida. For years after its discovery by the looters, “Treasures from the site, including gold figures and ceramics, soon began to appear on the black market”  Archeologists were alerted to these black market treasures and managed to, with the help of indigenous people who protect their ancestral site, trace themselves to the area in 1976.  The area was researched and reconstructed over the next 6 years.

Although La Ciudad Perdida is one of the most impressive sites, it’s not alone, only about 30-40% of the sites in the Sierra Nevada region have actually been explored. Thanks to recent widespread access, more and more of these sites are being discovered, and the search for new lost cities has just begun.

1,200 stone steps built by the Tairona.

Ciudad Perdida was probably the region’s political and manufacturing center on the Buritaca River and may have housed 2,000–8,000 people.

Named Teyuna by the Tairona but dubbed Ciudad Perdida upon rediscovery, the ancient wonder is perched on hillsides and tucked into a dense rainforest.

Lost deep in the mountains
Juan from SY Ay Caramaba ! PP2019-2020 in the – Lost City / Ciudad Perdida

MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

MUST SEE: 🇵🇫 Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia

in 2017 UNESCO named Taputapuātea on Ra’iātea Island, French Polynesia a world heritage site for its outstanding universal value, exceptional testimony to 1,000 years of pre-colonial mā'ohi civilization, and central location in the 'Polynesian Triangle'.  The 'points' on the Polynesian triangle are New Zealand, Hawaii, and Rapa Nui.  Taputapuātea is in the very center of this triangle of oceanic islands.  Both the cultural landscape and seascape on Ra’iātea make this a unique and remarkable place one must see.  Taputapuātea is an area that goes from the mountains through forested valleys spanning across a portion of lagoon and coral reef and a strip of open ocean.  In the center is the Marae of Taputapuātea.

The dark rectangular stone space is part of the Taputapuātea Marae complex: a political, ceremonial and funerary center on the edge of the lagoon surrounding the island. photo credit: P.F. Amar

The Marae of Taputapuātea is considered to be the most sacred pre-colonial Polynesian archeological sites in French Polynesia. UNESCO describes this site as:

"dedicated to the god ‘Oro and the place where the world of the living (Te Ao) intersects the world of the ancestors and gods (Te Po). It also expresses political power and relationships. The rise in the importance of Taputapuātea among the marae on Raiatea and in the wider region is linked to the line of Tamatoa ari’i (chiefs) and the expansion of their power. Taputapuātea was the centre of a political alliance that brought together two widespread regions encompassing most of Polynesia. The alliance was maintained by regular gatherings of chiefs, warriors and priests who came from the other islands to meet at Taputapuātea. The building of outrigger canoes and ocean navigation were key skills in maintaining this network.

A traditional landscape surrounds both sides of the Taputapuātea marae complex. The marae complex looks out to Te Ava Mo'a, a sacred pass in the reef that bounds the lagoon. Atāra motu is an islet in the reef and a habitat for seabirds. Ocean-going arrivals waited here before being led through the sacred pass and formally welcomed at Taputapuātea. On the landward side, ’Ōpo’a and Hotopu’u are forested valleys ringed by ridges and the sacred mountain of Tea’etapu. The upland portions of the valleys feature older marae, such as marae Vaeāra’i and marae Taumariari, agricultural terraces, archaeological traces of habitations and named features related to traditions of gods and ancestors. Vegetation in the valleys is a mix of species, some endemic to Raiatea, some common to other Polynesian islands and some imported food species brought by ancient Polynesians for cultivation. Together, the attributes of the property form an outstanding relict and associative cultural landscape and seascape."

Throughout Polynesia the Marae are communal or sacred sites in village life. In order to build a marae in another location, it is said that one must start with a stone from Taputapuātea.  The marae are places with different functions.   They are places where the world of the living intersected with the world of village ancestors and Polynesian gods.  They are places where people gather for ceremony, dance, connecting with the past and with community.

People gather in the Taputapuatea marae for ceremony.  photo credit GIE Tourisme

This video is a product of the cumulative effort of cultural and historical groups presenting the significance of Taputapuātea in the past, the present, and for the future.

https://youtu.be/wXbJXHR8-3g?t=391

People navigated to and from Taputapuatea in the past and continue today.  photo credit GIE Tourisme
Fishing in the waters of Taputapuatea is a part of traditional life.  photo credit: A. Wickel
Marine biodiverity in Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama
Coral shelf surrounding Taputapuatea photo credit: D. Hazama

 

Mountains of Taputapuatea photo credit: P.F. Amar

MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park, Dominica

MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park,

Dominica 🇩🇲

Location of Morne Trois Pitons

Morne Trois Pitons National Park is on the Island of Dominica in the southeastern Caribbean Sea.  The volcanic island is quite heavily forested and mountainous, rich in water and fertile soil, and still has a number of (rarely) active volcanoes, volcanic vents, bubbling mud ponds, and hot springs.  The National Park was established by the Dominican government in 1975 and made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 for its uniquely stunning geologic (volcanic) formations, its biodiversity, and its huge stores of water.  Nearly all the headwaters of the streams and rivers that hydrate and power the southern half of the Island begin in Morne Trois Pitons National Park.

Waterfall into Emerald Pool in Morne Trois Pitons National Park
Boiling Lake is steaming HOT!

The National Park encompasses a lake called Boiling Lake, so named for the gasses that bubble from beneath it and keep the water temperature to over 95 degrees Celsius.  The mountainous landscape is punctuated by three main peaks (hence Trois Pitons) that are steep and rugged with waterfalls, freshwater lakes, and a huge variety of flaura and fauna, several endemic to Dominica.

blue headed hummingbird pollinates rain or shine.
Dense tropical flora boast rare Caribbean habitats including elfin/cloud forest
The Mountain Chicken frog of Dominica is capable of reaching up to 1kg in weight.

Preserving Wildlife is important to this Island nation that considers nature prime importance to their survival and food security.  In addition to abundant fruit, The Mountain Chicken frog was once considered the nation's unofficial national dish.  A decline in their numbers led to conservation efforts including hunting season regulations and scientific attention.  However, no amount of regulations can hold back mother nature and both a soil borne fungus and a volcanic eruption resulted in significant reduction in many amphibious animals including the Mountain Chicken.  Therefore, in spite of conservation efforts, their species numbers have continued to decline and they are on the brink of extinction.  As of November 2023 scientists believe there were 30 known Mountain Chicken Frogs left.

There is hope in that Dominica has actually made tremendous strides that offer hope to the survival of the species identifying genes of resiliency that can be treated to eliminate the fungus illness in the frogs.  Time will tell.

 


SAILORS HAVE BEEN USING THE GULF STREAM FOR CENTURIES

The Gulf Stream is part of a global conveyor belt of ocean current that mixes global ocean waters (salinity density and temperature) around the globe.  Like creatures of the sea, sailors have been using different currents in this conveyor belt for centuries.  A very important current in the Atlantic Ocean is the Gulf Stream. Basically, SE trade winds blow and drive warm surface water from the mid/south Atlantic between Western Africa and Northeastern South America northwest through the Caribbean to the Gulf of Mexico.  The turning of the earth and the west winds then drive this current north east up eastern North America.  As the gulf stream gets more north it splits in a few different directions towards Europe and the North Atlantic.

The Gulf Stream is very important for the European climate as it brings warm air to the continent that would otherwise be quite cool.  The Gulf Stream is 10,000 km long and moves at 2m/sec making it the largest and fastest of all the ocean currents on earth.  Some people liken it to a river of water in the ocean.  The Gulf Stream was discovered by early Spanish explorers over 500 years ago and was used to both colonize the West and bring wealth and fortune back to Spain.  For this reason the Gulf Stream has had a huge impact on the history and culture of the Caribbean, the Americas and Europe.

Movement of early Spanish ships using the Gulf Stream to go From Spain and back to Spain with strategic stops for trading along the way.

Consider Christopher Columbus’s final transatlantic voyage, when conquistadors carved out a vast and wealthy overseas empire for Spain, first in the Caribbean as far north as what is now Florida and then on the mainlands of Mexico, Central America, Colombia, Venezuela, and Peru: these early ships used the Gulf Stream.  Products of these tropical and mountainous territories brought high prices on the Continent, and Spanish galleons sailed home laden with exotic dyes, sugar, tobacco, chocolate, pearls, hardwoods, and silver and gold. These so-called “treasure fleets” made Spain the most powerful and envied nation in Renaissance Europe. Thanks to the travels of Ponce de Leon in 1513, Spanish navigators knew that the best return route from Spain’s rich Caribbean possessions was along the Gulf Stream, through the Bahama Channel, and past the shores of Florida. The Spanish knew they must defend this peninsula to prevent enemies from using its harbors as havens from which to raid the passing treasure fleets.  The Spanish built Forts to defend their positions in the New World.  One such Fort was built on the East Coast of modern day Florida:

🇺🇸 CASTILLO SAN MARCOS, St Augustine Florida

Spanish erect and protect Castillo San Marcos in the 16th century
Today the Fort can be viewed and visited from the anchorage.

See https://oceanposse.com/castillo-san-marcos/ to learn more about the Spanish Must See Fort along the Ocean Posse route in San Augustine, Florida.

In 1513 Spain claimed Florida through the expedition of Ponce de Leon

For Ocean Posse vessels looking to cross the Atlantic Ocean the Gulf Stream has been and continues to be very important voyage planning consideration.  Two big challenges are the higher amount of large vessel traffic in the Gulf Stream and the warmer water in the Gulf Stream which translates to thunderstorms or worse. For these two reasons many mariners cross the Gulf Stream as quickly as possible relative to their destination.


MUST SEE: KASTOMS IN VANUATU

KASTOMS IN VANUATU

Mount Yasur is a volcano on Tanna Island, Vanuatu, 1,184 ft high above sea level. It has been erupting nearly continuously for several hundred years.  Although it can usually be approached safely, its eruptions often occur several times an hour.

The glow of the volcano was apparently what attracted Captain James Cook on the first European journey to the island in 1774. Today, the mountain is a sacred area for the John Frum cargo cult. Members of the cult revere John Frum, a deified messenger who foretold the bringing of wealth to the island by American forces, and believe he resides in Mount Yasur with his countrymen.

Kastom is a pidgin word (Bislama/English) used to refer to traditional culture, including religion, economics, art and magic in Melanesia.

The word derives from the Australian English pronunciation of custom. Kastom is mostly not written only passed down through teachings and stories. It is concentrated through:

• Kastom House - sites where objects and rituals are stored.

• Kastom stories - myths, legends and communal histories.

• Kastom tabu - objects of special power, significance and symbolism.

There are designated Kastom villages in Vanuatu which are open to tourists, dedicated to preserving Kastom.

Languages in Vanuatu

Vanuatu boasts 113 distinct languages and innumerable dialects. Out of the three official languages, Bislama is the most spoken in Vanuatu, followed by English, and lastly French. Symbols and items used day to day especially in the outer islands which highlight the kastom way of life:

• nakamal / men's house or meeting ground

• namele leave /signs for taboo

• pigs tusk, red mat / signs of chiefly hood

• Naghol / land Diver first step from child hood to become man

• Circomsion / During the time of circumcise it is taboo to go near the place custom believes

• Navenue leave / someone holding a navenue leave working through into the village on which she or he left long ago the message is to say that he / she belongs to the place / that village

• Bamboo leave / when someone gives you a bamboo leave it means you belong to the tribe

• Basket with a bush knife holding in hand / going to the garden

• A women in a village with a tattoo sign or a broken front tooth / the girl is engaged

• Tattoos in the village/ symbol customary origin eg: spider, sharks, turtle, etc…

• Also a coconut leave or navele palm leaf across a beach / taboo sign

• Sand Drawing/ passing of messages and stories through kastom art on sand and song

Sailing into the islands of Vanuatu, a yachtsman is immediately struck by the contrast between the modern world and the deeply rooted traditions that define these remote communities. As the anchor drops and the sounds of the sea give way to the distant echo of drums, the realization dawns that this is not just a tropical paradise, but a land where ancient customs, known as "kastoms," are still very much alive.

A Glimpse into Kastom

Kastom is the term used by the Ni-Vanuatu to describe their traditional customs, beliefs, and practices. For the visiting yachtsman, kastom is more than just a cultural curiosity; it is the heartbeat of the islands, influencing every aspect of life from social structures to land ownership and spiritual beliefs.

As you step ashore, you may notice that each village has its own version of kastom, which can vary significantly from island to island. These differences are a reflection of the diverse histories, languages, and environments of Vanuatu's many islands. However, despite these variations, the core principles of respect for elders, communal living, and a deep connection to the land and sea remain constant.

Welcoming Ceremonies and the Role of Chiefs

One of the first encounters with kastom that a yachtsman might experience is the welcoming ceremony. In many villages, visitors are required to participate in a formal greeting ceremony before they can explore the area or engage with the local community. This ceremony is not just a formality; it is an important kastom practice that shows respect for the local chief and the community's traditions.

The chief, or "big man," plays a central role in village life. His authority is derived from kastom, and his decisions are respected by all. As a visitor, it is essential to show deference to the chief, as his approval is crucial for gaining access to the village and its resources. The welcoming ceremony often involves the presentation of a small gift, known as a "sevu-sevu," which is typically a bundle of kava roots or other locally valued items. This gesture symbolizes the visitor's respect for the local culture and their willingness to abide by its rules.

Land and Sea: The Foundations of Kastom

For the Ni-Vanuatu, the land and sea are not just resources to be exploited; they are sacred entities that are deeply intertwined with kastom. Land is communally owned and is passed down through generations according to traditional rules. As a yachtsman, it is important to understand that access to land and certain marine areas may be restricted or require permission from the local chief. Trespassing on these areas without proper authorization can be seen as a serious violation of kastom.

The sea is equally revered, and many kastom practices are centered around the ocean. Traditional fishing methods, such as the use of stone fish traps or communal fishing expeditions, are still practiced in many areas. These methods are not just about catching fish; they are rituals that reinforce community bonds and respect for the ocean's bounty. Yachtsmen who wish to fish or dive in these waters should always seek guidance from the locals to ensure they are not infringing on sacred or restricted areas.

Kastom and Spiritual Beliefs

Kastom is also deeply connected to the spiritual beliefs of the Ni-Vanuatu. Ancestor worship and the belief in spirits, or "tambu," are central to many communities. Sacred sites, known as "nasara," are places where rituals are performed to honor the spirits and maintain harmony with the natural world. These sites are often off-limits to outsiders, and it is important for yachtsmen to respect these boundaries.

In some villages, traditional dances and ceremonies are performed to communicate with the spirits or to mark important events. These performances are not just for entertainment; they are powerful expressions of kastom and are often accompanied by the beating of slit drums and the chanting of ancient songs. As a visitor, witnessing such a ceremony can be a profound experience, but it is important to approach it with the appropriate reverence.

Challenges to Kastom in the Modern World

While kastom remains a vital part of life in Vanuatu, it is not without its challenges. The encroachment of modernity, tourism, and external influences has put pressure on traditional practices. For yachtsmen, it is important to be aware of these dynamics and to approach the islands with sensitivity.

Respecting kastom means more than just following the rules; it involves understanding the context in which these traditions exist and the challenges they face. Engaging with the local community in a respectful and meaningful way can help to support the preservation of kastom and ensure that these ancient practices continue to thrive in the face of change.

Practical Tips for Visiting Yachtsmen

  • Seek Permission: Always seek permission from the local chief before venturing into a village or engaging in activities such as fishing or diving. This shows respect for kastom and ensures that you do not inadvertently violate any sacred or restricted areas.
  • Participate in Ceremonies: If invited, participate in welcoming ceremonies or other kastom rituals. These experiences can provide valuable insights into the local culture and are a way to show respect for the community.
  • Be Mindful of Dress and Behavior: In many villages, modest dress is expected, and certain behaviors, such as public displays of affection, may be frowned upon. Observing these customs shows respect for the local culture.
  • Respect Sacred Sites: Avoid entering nasara or other sacred sites without explicit permission. These areas are often of great spiritual significance and should be treated with the utmost respect.
  • Support Local Communities: Consider contributing to the local economy by purchasing handmade crafts, hiring local guides, or participating in community-led tours. This not only supports the community but also helps to preserve kastom practices.

 

Sand Drawings

Sand drawings are one of the most remarkable and visually captivating expressions of Vanuatu's kastom. These intricate designs are created by tracing patterns in the sand with a single continuous line, often using just one finger. The drawings are more than just artistic expressions; they are a form of communication, storytelling, and knowledge transfer. Each design carries specific meanings, representing everything from navigation routes and genealogies to myths, legends, and natural elements.

For visiting yachtsmen, witnessing a sand drawing is like watching a living document come to life. These drawings are often accompanied by explanations or stories told by the artist, who may be an elder or a respected member of the community. The designs themselves are ephemeral, easily erased by the wind or tide, which emphasizes their spiritual and transient nature. This practice serves as a reminder of the importance of oral traditions in preserving knowledge and cultural heritage in Vanuatu.

Water Music

Water music is another unique and enchanting aspect of Vanuatu's kastom. Practiced primarily by the women of the northern islands, particularly on Gaua and Ambae, water music involves creating rhythms and melodies by slapping, scooping, and splashing water with their hands. The women stand waist-deep in water and perform intricate, synchronized movements that produce a variety of sounds, from deep bass notes to high-pitched splashes.

For yachtsmen, witnessing a water music performance is a mesmerizing experience. The music, which often accompanies rituals or celebrations, is deeply connected to the natural environment. The sounds mimic the rhythms of the ocean, the rainfall, and the wind, reflecting the close relationship the Ni-Vanuatu have with their surroundings. Water music is not just entertainment; it is a form of expression that conveys the harmony between the people and the elements of nature.

Rom Dance

The Rom dance is one of the most iconic and powerful kastom ceremonies in Vanuatu, particularly on the island of Ambrym. This dance is performed during important rituals, such as initiations, harvest celebrations, and other significant communal events. The dancers wear elaborate costumes made from banana leaves, masks carved from wood, and headdresses adorned with feathers and shells. The Rom masks are particularly significant, often representing ancestral spirits or deities.

As a visiting yachtsman, witnessing a Rom dance is an unforgettable experience. The dance is a dramatic and solemn affair, with deep, resonant drumbeats setting the rhythm. The dancers move in unison, their steps echoing the ancient traditions that have been passed down through generations. The Rom dance is more than just a performance; it is a spiritual act that connects the dancers and the audience to the ancestors and the natural world. It is a vivid reminder of the living presence of kastom in Vanuatu.

Wood Carving

Wood carving is a highly respected art form in Vanuatu, with each island and community having its own distinctive style and motifs. The carvings often depict ancestral figures, animals, and symbols that are deeply embedded in kastom beliefs. These carvings are not only used in rituals and ceremonies but also serve as everyday objects, such as bowls, canoes, and tools.

For yachtsmen visiting the islands, wood carvings offer a tangible connection to the cultural heritage of the Ni-Vanuatu. Purchasing a carved figure or other wooden object is not just buying a souvenir; it is acquiring a piece of the local culture, imbued with spiritual significance. The carvings often tell stories or represent aspects of the natural world, and they are made with great skill and care, reflecting the deep respect the carvers have for their craft and the traditions they uphold.

Witch Doctors

The role of the witch doctor, or "clever man," is another fascinating aspect of kastom in Vanuatu. Witch doctors are highly respected figures within their communities, possessing knowledge of traditional medicine, spiritual practices, and the ability to communicate with the spirit world. They are often called upon to heal the sick, protect the village from harm, and perform rituals that ensure the community's well-being.

For a yachtsman, encountering a witch doctor can be both intriguing and mysterious. These individuals hold a unique place in Ni-Vanuatu society, blending the roles of healer, spiritual guide, and mediator between the physical and spiritual realms. Witch doctors may use a variety of tools and substances in their practices, including herbs, charms, and talismans. Their knowledge is passed down through generations, and their authority is derived from both their skill and their connection to the ancestral spirits.

While the idea of witch doctors might seem exotic or even eerie to outsiders, it is important for visitors to approach these practices with respect and an open mind. The belief in the power of witch doctors is deeply rooted in kastom and plays a crucial role in maintaining the social and spiritual fabric of the community.

Land Diving (Naghol): The Precursor to Modern Bungee Jumping

Land diving, known locally as "Naghol," is one of Vanuatu's most spectacular and culturally significant traditions. Taking place on Pentecost Island, this ritual is an ancient form of bungee jumping, but without the modern safety equipment. Instead, participants leap from tall wooden towers with only vines tied to their ankles. This incredible tradition is deeply rooted in the kastom of the island and is believed to ensure a good yam harvest, as well as to prove the strength and bravery of the men who participate.

The Significance of Land Diving

For the Ni-Vanuatu people, land diving is more than just a daring feat; it is a sacred ritual with profound cultural and spiritual meaning. The origins of land diving are steeped in legend, with one popular story recounting how a woman named Tamalie escaped from her abusive husband by climbing a tree and tying vines to her ankles before jumping. When her husband followed her and jumped after her, he did not tie the vines properly and fell to his death. The men of the village then began performing the jump themselves to ensure their own safety and to honor the woman's courage.

Today, the land dive is performed annually during the yam harvest season, usually between April and June. The ritual is believed to bless the soil and guarantee a bountiful harvest. It is also a rite of passage for young men, who prove their manhood by participating in the dive. The higher the platform from which a man dives, the greater his bravery is considered.

The Construction of the Tower

The preparation for a land dive is as impressive as the dive itself. A massive tower, sometimes reaching heights of 20 to 30 meters (65 to 100 feet), is constructed using only materials from the surrounding forest. The tower is a masterpiece of traditional engineering, built by the villagers using ropes made from vines and wood lashed together. The platforms from which the men dive are placed at different heights, with the highest reserved for the most experienced and daring divers.

The vines used for the dive are carefully selected based on their elasticity and strength. They must be just the right length to ensure that the diver's head or shoulders lightly brush the ground at the end of the fall, symbolizing the blessing of the earth. The selection of the vines is a critical part of the preparation, as a miscalculation could result in serious injury or death.

The Dive: A Test of Courage

On the day of the land dive, the atmosphere is charged with anticipation. The divers, clad only in traditional nambas (penis sheaths) and decorated with body paint, climb the rickety tower to their designated platforms. The villagers gather below, singing, dancing, and chanting to encourage the divers and to invoke the spirits for protection.

Each diver stands on the edge of the platform, gripping the vine attached to his ankles. The moment of the dive is a powerful one, filled with tension and ritual significance. With a final breath and a prayer to the ancestors, the diver leaps from the platform, plummeting towards the earth. The crowd erupts in cheers and chants as the diver's fall is arrested by the vines, just as his head or shoulders graze the ground. The diver is then quickly helped up, often dazed but unharmed, to the adulation of the onlookers.

For the diver, completing the land dive is a deeply spiritual experience, reaffirming his connection to the earth, his ancestors, and the community. It is a test of courage, faith, and physical endurance that few outsiders can truly comprehend.

 

 

 


MUST SEE: 🇧🇲 Town of St George and Related Fortifications, Bermuda

MUST SEE: 🇧🇲 Town of St George & Related Fortifications, Bermuda

The Town of St George, once the Capital of Bermuda, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  In 1609, a British ship, the Sea Venture, was bound for Jamestown, Virginia when they encountered a storm which set them on a reef.  Following the 1609 shipwreck, the surviving crew built two new ships, Deliverance and Patience, and most continued their voyage to Jamestown, Virginia.  Supposedly three of the Sea Venture crew were left on the island to mingle with Spanish and Portugese New World explorers who had also 'found' the reef in previous ocean voyages.  Three years later, in 1612, the English trading company, the Virginia Company, returned and laid claim to the island.  In 1612, the Town of St. George was founded by the Brits courtesy of the Virginia Company.  Today, Bermuda is an Overseas Territory of Great Britain and the Town of St. George stands as an prime example of the earliest English urban settlement in the New World.  According to UNESCO: "Its associated fortifications graphically illustrate the development of English military engineering from the 17th to the 20th century, being adapted to take account of the development of artillery over this period."  After the American Revolution Great Britain made St. George its main New World Naval Base.  Their military fortifications have been reconstructed and strengthened over and over again over the last four centuries.

The architecture in Town is unique and has changed little since the 17th century so it appears frozen in time.  Bermuda is fringed by coral reefs and sits in the North Atlantic so the buildings in St. George are generally less than two stories and constructed to withstand hurricanes.  They are white-washed soft limestone that are designed with gentle pitched roofs and gutters to collect water in cisterns as water sources are scarce on the island.  40% of the structures in Town were built before 1800 lending the Town a very historic feel.

FUN FACTS: In 1806 the Town of Hamilton was named the new capital of Bermuda.

This is when St. George was no longer the capital and some say time stopped in St George.

Goslings Black Seal Rum has been distilled on the other end of the island in Hamilton since 1806.


Marquesas named UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Marquesan Flag

Marquesas named

UNESCO World Heritage Site

 

 

The Marquesan Islands are the most isolated island group on the planet in the northern reaches of French Polynesia.  They have abundant fresh water, fertile soil, many valleys, and an year round growing season.  They were once the home of tens of thousands of Polynesians.  Now the 12 islands are home to under 10,000 people.

According to the World Heritage Convention, The Marquesan Islands were recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its "exceptional testimony to the territorial occupation of the Marquesas archipelago by a human civilization that arrived by sea around the year 1000 CE and developed on these isolated islands between the 10th and the 19th centuries. It is also a hotspot of biodiversity that combines irreplaceable and exceptionally well conserved marine and terrestrial ecosystems. Marked by sharp ridges, impressive peaks and cliffs rising abruptly above the ocean, the landscapes of the archipelago are unparalleled in these tropical latitudes. The archipelago is a major centre of endemism, home to rare and diverse flora, a diversity of emblematic marine species, and one of the most diverse seabird assemblages in the South Pacific. Virtually free from human exploitation, Marquesan waters are among the world’s last marine wilderness areas. The property also includes archaeological sites ranging from monumental dry-stone structures to lithic sculptures and engravings." https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1707

The ancient Marquesan anthropomorphic sculptures or tiki have received wide attention since they were first noted in 1595.  Oral stories of their significance are difficult to come by as many have been lost.  The Marquesan language has been all but lost to French in the islands although, presently there are many people trying to study it, use it, and keep it alive.  Beginning in 1980's, there have been academic efforts to trace the history of Marquesan language, spirituality, and stone structures. Stylistically the Marquesan stone tiki followed certain social rules with similar characteristics to tattoos and material objects.

Copra, drying on the left, is a very common economy for local Marquesans
There are huge basalt pinnacles on Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas

 


MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI

MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI 🇫🇯

THE ORIGINAL GUNKHOLES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Levuka Signpost and town entrance
Levuka was once the capitol of Fijji

Levuka is a town on the eastern coast of the Fijian Island of Ovalau.  Up until 1877, it was the capital of Fiji.  Currently, this strangely haunted town has a population of about 5,000.  It is the economic hub of the largest of 24 settlements on the Island.  Levuka was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2013, in recognition of the port town's exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific Ocean.

Old image of Levuka

The modern town of Levuka was founded around 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands.  Levuka quickly became an important port and trading post in the Pacific.  A disparate band of settlers made up Levuka's population- traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, vagabonds, and even respectable businessmen.  Much of Levuka’s unique heritage is in its wooden architecture (highly vulnerable to fire).

The South Pacific’s first Masonic Lodge is Levuka’s only Romanesque building.

The South Pacific's first Masonic Lodge was built in 1913 and housed the Freemasons that were established in Levuka by Alexander Barrack in 1875.  There is much controversy about the Masonic fraternity in Fiji.  The dominant traditional Christian faiths consider the Masons to be devil-worshippers.   The Masonic Lodge was burned down in the 2000 Fiji coup d'etat.  The Lodge contained priceless historical artifacts and records of Levuka's history dating back to 1875.  The arsonists have yet to be identified and prosecuted.

A stunning anchorage behind the reef

MUST SEE: LAUREL FOREST IN SAO VICENTE, MADEIRA 🇵🇹 PORTUGAL

MUST SEE: LAUREL FOREST IN SAO VICENTE,

MADEIRA 🇵🇹 PORTUGAL

Portugal's Madeira Island is an island in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa.  Madeira itself is a sight to behold.  The volcanic island erupted in the Ocean during the Miocene Epoch about twenty million years ago.  After the lava cooled and erosion shaped the island.

The highest point on the island stands at 1,862 metres (6,109 feet) and the distance to Madeira’s submerged base at the bottom of the Atlantic is just over 6,000 metres (about 20,000 feet).

Madeira is a volcanic island of basalt rock, perpendicular cliffs reaching out of the ocean, and an east-west backbone of sheer mountains.

The spectacular landscape of the Laurisilva Forest is a strongly scented, integral part of Madeira  Island's landscape.  Its lush vegetation hides the fascinating indigenous laurel forest, recognized by UNESCO in 1999 as Natural Heritage of Humanity. The Laurisilva of Madeira is an outstanding relic of a previously widespread laurel forest type.  Historians believe that forty million years ago up until the last Ice Age there were great swaths of Laurisilva forest covering much of southern Europe.  However, today this ecosystem is mostly confined to the three Atlantic archipelagos of Madeira, Azores, and the Canaries.

Healthy Laurel Tree shrouded in the mist, teaming with life, and history.

The Laurisilva Forest of Madeira is the largest surviving area of laurel forest and is believed to be 90% primary forest meaning the trees in this forest have never been cut down.  This forest area dates back to the dinosaurs and has somehow survived almost six hundred years of human habitation. The forest contains a unique suite of plants and animals, including many endemic species such as the Madeiran long-toed pigeon. Madeira is … World Heritage

The Laurisilva Forest is not only a UNESCO site preserved for it's unique beauty and as an example of primary forest; this forest is also it is a precious mass of fertile forest that plays an increasingly important role in maintaining the island’s hydrological balance and biological diversity.

The Laurisilva Forest of Madeira has long played and important role to the islanders. Much of the forest is criss-crossed by a network of irrigation channels known as Ievadas which carry water from the fertile north to the more arid regions on the south side of the island.

Laboriously cut from the sturdy mountain rock to transport water to the island’s plantations and hydro-electric power stations, the levadas date right back to the island’s very first settlers in the early 15th century.

Today, the the levadas still play an essential role in the cultivation of a variety of crops, including bananas, grapes (used for making Madeira wine), sugar cane and passion fruit, that grow in abundance all over the island.

Levada carrying water out of the forest. Photo credit: Visit Madeira

Interested in learning more of the history of this special place, click this link:

https://viajealpatrimonio.com/listing/laurisilva-de-madeira/


SAMOA

MUST SEE: SAMOA 🇼🇸 APIA

SAMOA 🇼🇸 APIA

Samoan dances in Apia 🇼🇸 Samoa Samoan cultural dancing is a vibrant and integral part of Samoan heritage, particularly in Apia, the capital city of Samoa. Traditional dances in Samoa are deeply rooted in the cultural and social fabric of the island, reflecting its history, values, and communal lifestyle. One of the most prominent dances is the Siva. This graceful dance, often performed by young women, tells stories through slow, fluid movements, symbolizing the beauty and harmony of Samoan life. The Fa'ataupati, or slap dance, contrasts with its energetic and rhythmic style, typically performed by men, showcasing strength and coordination
The Fa'ataupati, or slap dance, contrasts with its energetic and rhythmic style, typically performed by men, showcasing strength and coordination.
The Fa'ataupati, or slap dance, contrasts with its energetic and rhythmic style, typically performed by men, showcasing strength and coordination.

 

The ancient art of fire (sword) dancing originated  in Polynesia.  Taking his inspiration from the Samoan warrior, a  fire knife dancer takes center stage twirling, tossing, catching and throwing a flaming machete at high speeds.
Fire Dance rThe ancient art of fire (sword) dancing originated  in Polynesia.  Taking his inspiration from the Samoan warrior, a  fire knife dancer takes center stage twirling, tossing, catching and throwing a flaming machete at high speeds. The history of Samoan fire twirling, or fire knife dancing, is rich and fascinating. The practice, known as Siva Afi or Ailao Afi, originated from the traditional Samoan knife dance called Ailao, which was performed by warriors to demonstrate their battle prowess and psych themselves up before combat. The dance involved twirling and tossing a war club called a nifo oti, which was later adapted to include fire​ (Wikipedia)​​ (Old Lāhainā Lū’au)​. The incorporation of fire into the dance is credited to Uluao "Freddie" Letuli, a Samoan-American performer. In 1946, inspired by a Hindu fire eater and a baton twirler with lighted batons he saw at a Shriners Convention in San Francisco, Letuli decided to add fire to his knife dance routine. This innovation dramatically increased the skill and danger involved, making the dance even more captivating. Letuli's new version of the dance quickly gained popularity and became a staple in Polynesian shows and luaus​ (Maui Luau Review)​​ (Discover Hawaii)​. Fire knife dancing has since become a celebrated part of Samoan culture and is showcased in various cultural events, including the annual World Fire Knife Dance Competition held at the Polynesian Cultural Center in Hawaii. This competition attracts performers from around the world and highlights the skill, strength, and artistry involved in this dynamic dance​ (Aloha Hawaii)​. For a deeper dive into the history and cultural significance of Samoan fire twirling, you can explore resources such as "Flaming Sword of Samoa" by Letuli, which provides an in-depth look at the origins and evolution of this mesmerizing dance​ (Aloha Hawaii)​​ (Discover Hawaii)​.

 

Samoan Knife
A theory on Human migration from Indonesia into Micronesia, Melanesia and Polynesia. Samoa is a sovereign nation 40 miles northwest of American Samoa, a US Territory.  While geographically quite close, Samoa and American Samoa are separated by 24 time difference.  Samoa being more closely connected with Australia and New Zealand as primary trade partners and American Samoa with the United States. Samoa consists of the islands of Upolu, Savai’i, Apolima and Manono.  During Colonial times these islands were a German protectorate from 1900 until the takeover by New Zealand forces during World War 1 in 1914.  The takeover of Samoa was New Zealand’s first military action in World War I. In late August 1914 with landings by the Samoa Expeditionary Force from New Zealand on behalf of King George V.  Samoan independence came in 1962.

 

Early image of Samoa
National beer Vailima: a German-style lager brewed in Samoa here are two versions to choose from, the normal 4.9% strength and the the export-only 6.7%.