ROOTS OF THE DAY OF THE DEAD TODAY

ROOTS OF THE DIA DE LOS MUERTOS:

DAY OF THE DEAD CELEBRATION TODAY 

Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead is a Mexican holiday celebrated throughout Mexico (particularly in Central and Southern Mexico) over a two day period: November 1st (Dia de los Angelitos dedicated to deceased children) and 2nd (Dia de los Muertos dedicated to deceased adults).  Today, Dia day Los Muertos is celebrated by people of Mexican heritage elsewhere throughout the world as well. The multi-day holiday involves family and friends gathering to pray for, remember, and honor friends and family members who have died.  Today, traditions connected with the holiday include building altars called ofrendas.  Oferendas are build in people's homes or in public spaces.  During this time people also visit cemeteries to clean the gravesite or headstone of a deceased loved one and decorate their grave with gifts such as calaveras (skulls), calacas (skulls), strings of marigolds, the favorite foods and beverages of the departed.  Visitors also leave possessions of the deceased at the graves.  In some regions there are parades and women dress as Catrinas in lavish gowns, their faces painted.  The parades include music and performance dancing.  Today, Dia De Los Muertos is a time for those in the mortal realm to help support the spiritual journey of the dead.  In Mexican culture, death is viewed as a natural part of the human cycle.  Mexicans view this holiday not as a day of sadness, but as a day of celebration.

Gravesites are often seen adorned with strings of marigolds this time of year.

The Dia De Los Muertos holiday of today is a product of the different faiths and traditions of both indigenous people of Mexico (dating back thousands of years), Roman Catholicisim (dating back hundreds of years), and modern culture mixing over time.  In the case of celebrating life and death in today's Dia de los Muertos, the roots of these indigenous and traditional beliefs go back thousands of years to indigenous Aztec people of what is now central and southern Mexico.  The Aztecs did not see death as the end of one's existence, rather, another stage of one's life.  One can not live without death and one cannot die without living.  It is thought that they believed that the realm of the living world, the divine, and the spirit world all exist.  Originally, Día de los Muertos was the entire ninth month of the Aztec calendar. The Aztecs dedicated the month to honoring both the people that would reincarnate as well as the god that allowed humans to reincarnate. In particular, they honored the god Mictlantecuhtli. The festivities celebrating it were known as Miccailhuitontli or Huey Micailhuitl, which translates to ‘The Great Feast of the Dead’.

Mictlantecuhtli, the God of Death, and his wife, Mictecacihuatl, the Goddess of Death, or Lady of Death and ruler of Mictlān in Aztec Mythology

According to the Great Nahuatl Dictionary, Mictlán means underworld.  Others translate MICTLÁN as “place of the dead.”  Different legends, visual representations and ancient codices define Mictlán as an unknown, dangerous and dark place, which has nine levels. In this worldview, the Earth was considered a being that devoured the flesh of the deceased.  At the time of death, the deceased was thought to be paying off their debt with the Earth, since when they died, they gave continuity to the cycle of the universe.  These nine levels are related to rot, fetid, cold, damp, watery, darkness, and night. The animals related to the Mictlán were owls, bats, worms and centipedes, which were in the service of Mictlantecuhtli and his consort Mictecacíhuatl.​

The Nine Levels:

1. Itzcuintlan

    Place of the dogs

2. Tepectli monamictlan

    Place of the hills that come together

 3. Iztepetl

      Hills of the very sharp flints

4. Itzehecayan

      Place of the obsidian wind

5. Paniecatacoyan

      Place where people fly like flags

6. Timiminaloayan

      Place where people are smitten

7. Teocoyohuehualoyan

     Where the jaguars eat your heart

8. Izmictlan Apochcalolca

      Smoke water lagoon

9. Chicunamictla

     The nine waters.

Part of Codex mendoz which depicts Aztec beliefs, spirituality, and dress.

Death was seen in the underworld of the Aztec world view where much transpires.  Over thousands of years this worldview has maintained life in the spirituality if indigenous people of Mexico.  500 years ago, when the Spanish empire colonized what is now Mexico they brought with them Catholicism and made a devout effort to introduce and convert indigenous people to this faith and view of the world.  Churches were built and people were brought into the Catholic religion.   Catholicism celebrates All Saints’ Day (November 1) and All Souls’ Day (November 2), both of which also commemorate those who have passed.  These celebrations commemorating those that have passed is an area in which the Catholic faith and the indigenous faith found common ground.  It's a syncretism, where indigenous religious practices have merged with the Christian belief systems introduced, or opposed, by the Spanish during the colonial era.  There are actually many examples of syncretism throughout Mexico, most notably found at the main church in San Juan de Chamula in Chiapas.  While the details and beliefs around death and the afterlife diverge greatly the people of Mexico today have a celebration in Dia de los Muertos that has roots spanning thousands of years of indigenous spirituality, hundreds of years or Catholic religious influence, and the modern constant of cultural expression.


INFINITY YACHTS BOAT FOR SALE IN MEXICO

INFINITY YACHTS BOAT FOR SALE IN MEXICO

1986 Custom Pinta Exception 52 Trimaran for sale - YachtWorld

Infinity Yachts is also highlighting: 1990 Sceptre 43 | 43ft  

FOR SALE in La Cruz Mexico. Asking $149,000.

 

AND: 1996 Beneteau First 42s7 | 42ft

FOR SALE in La Cruz Mexico. Asking 95k USD

VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART ON CRUISING SEASON ON THE PACIFIC COAST

VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART

ON CRUISING SEASON IN MEXICO, COSTA RICA, & PANAMA

 

The crew of SV PERCEPTION is happy to be on the move again. Sunset at anchor off Tamarindo Costa Rica.

SY PERCEPTION 🇺🇸 Jim & Melinda & Grace - Lagoon 42'

 

Let the Adventure begin! SV ZORBA is leaving Bocas del Torro for the San Blass Islands of Panama

SV ZORBA 🇲🇭 Tomer & Limor – Tayana 48’

 

 

It’s go time for SV OKISOLLO! Ready to be heading south again! Adios Puerto Penasco.  See you soon in Barra de Navidad!

 

FAIR WINDS


ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO

ONE YEAR AFTER HURRICANE OTIS STRUCK ACAPULCO

Hurricane Otis devastated and destroyed much of the Port of Acapulco in October 2023. Today the City is still recovering and once again welcoming people by land, air, and sea.

Hurricane Otis was the result of a tropical storm that rapidly intensified off the coast of Acapulco in October 2023.  No one expected it and everyone was caught off-guard.  In the dark of night three 20 foot waves came through the bay and destroyed everything.  In one fell swoop the entire Acapulco Yacht Club was thrown on land.  Four marinas were obliterated.  Boats got swamped and sunk rapidly.  650 boats were destroyed or sunk.  Some people escaped with their lives, others did not.

A longtime friend of the Posse, Vincente, who lived in the bay and managed several mooring buoys experienced a horrific tragedy.  He and his wife, son, and grandson were sleeping aboard their boat the night Otis hit.  His boat was among those quickly destroyed and sunk.  He was the only one aboard who survived.  The city was an absolute mess immediately following the Hurricane.  Power, water, and cell towers were out and it took weeks to discover that Vincente had survived.  Many Posse members pooled donations to help him and he was very grateful.  The memorial for his loved ones is this weekend;

Vincente's family memorial announcement

In the aftermath of Otis's devastation, the Mexican government sent in assistance to help lift the boats out of the bay and get the city out from under the rubble.  It has been a long road and true to many Mexican coastal towns the spirit of recovery has gotten them far and, by the sounds of it, the people of Acapulco are still working to get their Port town back.  We reached out to Vincente to see how he is doing and what he could share for Posse members cruising to Acapulco this season.

Vincente shares:

Buenas noches Capitán envío las respuestas a sus cuestionamientos que me fueron enviados:
A un año del huracan Otis le puedo decir que nos estamos recuperando lentamente en todos los aspectos y confiamos en que muy pronto tendremos el Acapulco de antes del Huracán Otis.
El turismo no a dejado de visitarnos tanto nacional como internacional poco pero siempre tenemos turismo en el Puerto.
La costa actualmente está bien dentro de lo que cabe.
La bahía en este momento puede recibir a todos los visitantes que vienen navegando y tenemos ya listas las bollas de amarre para darles un excelente servicio cuando sean requeridos.
Informo a usted que no fueron recuperados ninguno de los barcos porque el gobierno los retiró como chatarra.
Los amarres en la bahía se siguen gestionando a la hora que sean requeridos.
Informo a usted también que seguimos desembarcando en el mismo lugar de siempre.
Reafirmó a usted que quedó a sus órdenes para cualquier servicio o acciones en las cuales podamos apoyarlos anexo mi tarjeta y quedó a sus órdenes saludos

(TRANSLATION)

Good evening Captain, I am sending the answers to your questions that were sent to me:
A year after Hurricane Otis I can tell you that we are slowly recovering in all aspects and we trust that very soon we will have the Acapulco that we had before Hurricane Otis.
Tourism has not stopped visiting us, both nationally and internationally, but we always have tourism in the Port.
The coast is currently doing well within what is possible.
The bay can currently receive all the visitors who come sailing and we already have the mooring bollards ready to give them an excellent service when they are required.
I inform you that none of the boats were recovered because the government removed them as scrap.
The moorings in the bay are still being managed at the time they are required.
I also inform you that we continue to land in the same place as always.
I reaffirm to you that I remain at your service for any service or actions in which we can support you. I enclose my card and I remain at your service. Regards.

Vincente comes by with a smile to offer assistance to cruisers on his mooring balls

Contact him here >>>

OTIS 2023

The financial toll of the storm is estimated to be between $12 billion and $16 billion, making it one of the most costly tropical cyclones in Mexico's history. The storm devastated the region, destroying over 51,000 homes, damaging more than 250,000 others, and displacing over 34,000 households. Additionally, around 80% of Acapulco’s hotels were affected, severely disrupting the local tourism industry, which is crucial to the region’s economy. Hurricane Otis caused significant damage to vessels, especially in Acapulco. The storm destroyed 480+ public tourist boats, and at least 33 vessels sank in Acapulco Bay. Additionally, some boats were rescued near Playa Manzanillo, and others were found in the bay of Puerto Marqués.


MEXICO ENTRY AND EXIT REQUIREMENTS

MEXICO ENTRY AND EXIT REQUIREMENTS

FOR FOREIGN FLAGGED VESSELS

New guide for private boats visiting Mexico is very helpful.
Knowing entry and exit requirements for the countries you plan to visit will make the impending procedure so much easier.  Quick internet searches will often guide you right to the government website that will lay out requirements which include paperwork and fees.  Many countries have been upgrading and modernizing their systems. Mexico’s system has been changing over the last few years and unfortunately made many waves forcing some cruisers to abandon their cruising plans or turn their bow a completely different direction last year.  Mexico now has many of their entry and exit procedures available online.  The online resources do not eliminate the need to visit government offices upon entry or exit; rather, they hasten the process of getting information into the 'system' that ultimately keeps track of who and what is coming and going across their boarders.  Knowing the recent pitfalls and the newest procedures available will save a lot of time and avoid potential mishaps.
The VISITING MEXICO BY PRIVATE BOAT Quick Guide put out by the tourism board is a succinct introduction to private vessel and crew entry requirements.  The guide has detailed and simplified Mexican check in procedures. The key take away is that there are two main requirements foreign flagged vessels and crew must fulfill in order to properly clear into Mexico. The wonderful news is that both procedures can be started online now.
  1. Paperwork and fees for the people (and animals) onboard the vessel.
    • This involves getting tourist visas through Immigration and going through customs.  Visitors need to provide their passport, crew list, and vessel documentation.
  2. Paperwork and fees for the Vessel to obtain a TIP.
    • TIP’s are temporary Import Permits that boat owners apply for and pay for upon entry into Mexico. Captains present vessel and ownership documentation for permit.  The TIP is on the vessel and the ownership of the vessel is unimportant. The fee is less than $100 and yet the paperwork associated with it is the vessel’s Golden ticket into Mexico.  TIP’s for foreign flagged vessels are valid for ten years in Mexican waters. Foreign vessels are meant to cancel their TIP upon exiting Mexican waters.

When a vessel leaves Mexico without cancelling their TIP and this same vessel tries to enter Mexico complications arise.  In recent years, one of the biggest challenges cruisers entering Mexico have faced is discovering that their vessel has an uncanceled TIP.  If a vessel is found in Mexico without their ‘Golden Ticket’. The vessel can be impounded immediately.  Only fees, paperwork and stress build in this scenario.

The Mexican Government has been upgrading and computerizing their TIP database that catalogs what vessels have TIPS.  There are a variety of complications that have arisen from computerizing TIPs.  In the process of creating a formal and universal database some vessels came up as having more than one TIP issued to it.  Some vessels that had a TIP and left did so without cancelling their TIP.
Most recently new complications have arisen for TIPs issued before 2005 through the Mexican government agency called Aduana. This branch of the government has since been disbanded in the past few years.  In turn, last year all TIPS issued and uncanceled through Aduana prior to 2005 were completely frozen. These TIPs could not be cancelled or re-issued. These are the vessels who were forced to completely change their plans.  As of THIS WEEK, vessels with TIPS that fall into this category HAVE NEW HOPE!
The details of this recent turn of events can be found here in an article just released October 18th, 2024 in which a couple went to Ensenada with the sole intention to cancel two pre-2005 TIPs.  Their success is offering a beacon of hope and potentially a path forward for Mexican authorities to assist vessels seeking cruising clearance into Mexico this season.
Ideally vessels with TIPs issued before 2005 will now fall into yet a new category: vessels with TIP complications that are challenging AND solvable.  Like most places sometimes a little more paperwork and fees goes a long way!  Fortunately, there are people and companies that specialize in assisting people with their TIPs. That said, If a boat owner choses to use a representative to help obtain or cancel a TIP it is very important to be certain that others before you have used their services successfully.  Last year there was an issue in Mexico's Northwesternmost port, Ensenada, whereby someone was accepting money for the service of obtaining TIPs for vessels. These vessels cruised Mexico only to discover upon exiting the country that their TIPs were not valid. In fact, they were fake and had never been properly issued. This created huge problems. The Ocean Posse has a vetted company that helps with TIP challenges.
NOTE: The majority of boats do not have TIP issues but those that do have long convoluted yarns.  
For all vessels and crew entering and exiting Mexico from the north or the south know that the system of entry and exit is improving and one can get the process rolling on the new online system available.  The online system has not replaced office visits, inspections, or the issuance of official papers with even more official stamps.  Be very sure to keep all stamped paperwork and receipts from the Entry and Exit Processes.  The same actually holds true when flying or driving in or out of Mexico: keep entry and exit receipts and paperwork.  Entry Papers are required upon exiting Mexico and, most of the time, the subsequent country of entry requires the exit papers from the last country visited.  Follow the procedures properly and clearance will ideally be smooth and easy.

MUST SEE: LA RUTA DEL CAFE in CHIAPAS MEXICO

MUST SEE: LA RUTA DEL CAFE  🇲🇽 CHIAPAS MEXICO 

FINCA HAMBURGO >> The sun rises over the Chiapas mountains around the Tacaná volcano

One cold January morning in the late 1800's, Arthur Erich Edelmann, his wife Doris, and seven other colleagues set sail from Hamburg, Germany, all from Perleberg, a small town an hour and a half from Berlin. Erich had a coffee machinery factory in his hometown, owned by his family, which was facing financial problems when they received and invitation from the Mexican government to bring their machinery and their expertise to the fertile region of Chiapas, Mexico.  It would be amazing to know what they felt when they read that letter of invitation?  That is a story that we do not know and perhaps we never will.  What would you have thought to go from the deeply familiar to a place that seemed like a different world.  Would you take a risk, abandon your business, your city, your people, your country, your language to start from scratch in a place so far away, so different in culture, language, nature and climate?

Erich traveled for three weeks across the Atlantic until he arrived at the Port of Veracruz, where he took a horse-driven cart with his people to go to Soconusco, Chiapas to the wild and untouched lands that he and his family would soon call home.

Before arriving in Mexico, we suppose that Erich had to have read all the information available about Chiapas, about Mexico and its culture, its people, language, nature, its history. However, there was nothing that could have prepared him for the intensity of his new life.

Erich, Doris and their people arrived in Huixtla, a small village with some houses built in adobe and palm trees, inhabited by friendly indigenous families who gave them the mules and human capital necessary to reach their final destination.  From there, it took them another 8 hours to be able to transport along the newly created dirt roads, which looked like tunnels through the dense jungle. On their way they could observe the Tacaná, a volcano whose eruptions transformed the land around it into a fertile paradise.

With the help of workers from San Cristóbal, San Juan Chamula and Guatemala, Erich and his team of architects and engineers began to harmonize the land, build the first houses for the workers, the mill, roads. Erich and Doris lived for 11 years in one of these simple houses, couldn’t afford a bigger house, not yet. The priority was to prepare the land, build all the necessary infrastructure to work, keep people working, provide money and work, houses and food. The priority was its people and the priority was coffee.

They put a lot of work into investing in this long-term project so far from home, a lot of determination and hope, a great risk and a gamble. All that work, all those years, until finally: the first harvest and the start of Finca Hamburgo.

Finca Argovia

This exemplary coffee Resort Located in the Sierra Madre of Chiapas with More than 130 years of history and culminates  as a cultural and extremely worthwhile experience

Argovia is a partner and initiator of the Coffee route in Chiapas, with  cabins, outdoor pool, Spa, Yoga area, Restaurant,  Bar, Event areas and tours.

Chiapas is the southernmost state in Mexico, and it borders the states of Oaxaca to the west, Veracruz to the northwest, and Tabasco to the north, and borders Guatemala to the east and southeast. Chiapas has a significant coastline on the Pacific Ocean.

The lowland, tall perennial rainforest has been almost completely cleared to allow agriculture and ranching. Rainfall decreases moving towards the Pacific Ocean, but it is still abundant enough to allow the farming of bananas, coffee and many other tropical crops near Tapachula. On the several parallel sierras or mountain ranges running along the center of Chiapas, the climate can be quite moderate and foggy, allowing the development of cloud forests like those of Reserva de la Biosfera El Triunfo, home to a handful of horned guans, resplendent quetzals, and azure-rumped tanagers.

Chiapas is home to the ancient Mayan ruins of Palenque, Yaxchilán, Bonampak, Chinkultic and Toniná.

How to get Argovia?

To get to the Finca you have to take 8th Street north (reference: intersection with 17th Street west) located on the border of the city, which will take you north, right at the end will become Road to New Germany. 40 minutes of road without changing your way to find the 39km, you´ll find a signal that says “Argovia 5 minutes” turn your way to the right. You will continue by Finca Eduviges paved road better known as New Germany and only 5 minutes more you’ll be in Argovia. We guarantee that any vehicle from compact to mini sedans can access our Finca with no trouble.

Or sit back and relax on this day trip leave early from marina Chiapas with Miguel Angel of Discovery Tours +52 962 133 6820 toursdiscoverchiapas@hotmail.com

Miguel and Tony lead fabulous, custom tours from Marina Chiapas.


CENTRAL AMERICA CELEBRATES INDEPENDENCE FROM SPANISH RULE

MEXICO, GUATEMALA, NICARAGUA, HONDURAS, EL SALVADOR, AND COSTA RICA CELEBRATE INDEPENDENCE FROM SPANISH RULE

SEPTEMBER 15TH, 1821

Mexico celebrates their independence from Spain with parades, flags, fireworks, music, and dancing.

September 15, 1821 honors Mexican Independence and the signing of the Act of Independence of Central America, also known as the Act of Independence of Guatemala in which all these nations declared their independence from the Spanish Empire.  (Panama gained their independence separately later in 1821.)  This landmark day is celebrated as Independence Day in all of these countries today.  Festivities Include flags flying, parades, fireworks, and traditional food, music, and dancing.

Parade in Nicaragua celebrating Independence Day
Here, Costa Rica announces their annual Independence celebration.  Even though the exact date was not shared by each Central American country, the timeframe was similar and the effort was generally collective.  Today, they each celebrates their independence from Spanish rule on September 15, 1821

Hernan Cortez, arguably had the most dramatic impact of all the Spanish explorers especially in Mexico and Central America.  Born to an impoverished noble family, he sought a life of adventure and riches in the New World.  He trained as a notary before sailing to Hispaniola (modern day Haiti and Dominican Republic) as a colonist in 1504.  After becoming the colony’s notary, he played a key role in the conquest of Cuba in 1511.  In 1518 he was elected captain of the third expedition to what is now Mexico.  He had some bad relations with the governor of Cuba who upon Cortes' departure attempted to recall the expedition.  Cortes ignored this and embarked on the voyage with 500 men, weapons, and horses to conquer Mexico.  Upon arrival, he befriended some natives, made enemy's of others, and sired his first born with a native woman named Dona Maria who also served him as an interpreter.

The Spanish Galleons made landfall at Tabasco in March 1519.
Spaniard Hernando Cortes (1485-1547) led the Spanish Empire ashore in Mexico

And so it was that in 1519, Spanish conquistador and expedition leader, Hernan Cortés, made landfall with men and horses on the shores of what is now Tabasco, Mexico.  He and his forces saw to the demise of the Aztec Empire, made their way inland to Mexico City, and seized power.  While the indigenous people resisted mightily, the Spanish were relentless.  The diseases and weaponry they brought overtook indigenous populations from Mexico south.  Cortés thereby brought a large portion of what is now Mexico, and soon the rest of what is now Central America, under the rule of King Castile.  Thus began the first phase of Spanish colonization of the Americas.  Cortes' second in command, Pedro de Alvarado was commissioned to settle lands further to the south.  One by one, Alvarado colonized the areas that are now known as Guatemala (in 1523), Nicaragua & Costa Rica (in 1524), El Salvador (in 1528), and Honduras (in 1528).  These countries, including what is now the state of Chiapas (in 1609) became known as the Captaincy General of Guatemala for which Spain's King Philip III held dominion.

Spanish and Portuguese Empires 1581-1640: The Spanish and Portuguese went out to the New World to expand their empire, trade, acquire riches, spread Catholicism and bring back wealth.  This worked for them for over 300 years.

 

After just over 300 years of Spanish rule, in the early 19th century global changes began to unsettle Spanish power making way for leaders in what is now Central America to declare their independence from Spain.  In Europe, Spain was engaged in the Napoleanic wars with took their attention away from their colonies across the Atlantic.  Further, with inspiration from Enlightenment thinkers, Mexico's fight for independence from Spain, and the American colonies' independence from England, and the French Revolution, José Cecilio del Valle, a Honduran lawyer, wrote The Act of Independence document bringing together a delegation of leaders from what is now  Guatemala, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, El Salvador, and Honduras.  They gathered in Guatemala city to create and sign the Act of Independence of Guatemala and to achieve sovereignty from Spain.

Soon after this declaration of independence these countries were briefly annexed by the newly independent Mexico.  In 1823 delegates gathered again to form a federal republic- the United Provinces of Central America.  The delegates drew up a constitution that provided leadership and regional autonomy.  Overtime, conflicts arose between the separate nations; the United Provinces of Central America eventually fell apart and the leaders of each distinct nation once more declared their independence.

National celebrations today have grown and can begin before September 15th and go through the month celebrating national pride, independence, culture and heritage.

In Guatemala, in addition to parades, people may carry torches from village to village.
Independence day celebration at a primary school in El Salvador
Honduras celebrates their independence: "Honduras, My Land Live Your Independence"

To read more on this subject this article covers quite a lot: https://shunoutdoor.com/article/why-does-central-america-celebrate-independence-day

This article is for the visual learners among us: https://studylib.net/doc/10144677/independence-movement-latin-america


BARRA DE NAVIDAD HISTORY

HISTORY OF BARRA DE NAVIDAD

World class Barra de Navidad sunset behind the entrance to the Lagoon de Navidad
The village of Barra de Navidad sits just off the Pacific Ocean between a broad sweeping bay and a supremely protected lagoon.  The sweet seaside town is surrounded by productive farmland and has a rich maritime history.

The village of Barra de Navidad has been known by many names over the years.  Originally it was known by the names of Puerto Santo, Puerto de Cihuatlán, Puerto de Juan Gallego, Puerto de la Purificación, Puerto de Xalisco, and Puerto de la Natividad.  It was a Viceroy from Spain who named it Puerto de la Navidad because Spanish explorers made landfall in this port on a Christmas day.  Captain Juan Fernández de Híjar —founder of Villa Purificación, found Puerto de la Navidad around the year 1535, “in a time of great need,” as he himself said.  In time, a village and many ships were built on the shores of this Port.  The village was built on a sandbar and the name was later changed to Barra de la Navidad for the bar of sand she sits on.  The ships were built to support Spanish expeditions further west.

COsta alegre
Itinerary followed by the expedition of Miguel López de Legazpi in the Philippine archipelago.

60 years ago, In 1964 the governments and people of Mexico and the Philippines celebrated the “Year of the Mexican-Filipino Friendship”.  This celebration commemorated the joint agreement reached by Presidents López Mateos and Macapagal four centuries after a historic nautical expedition left from the Pacific Coast of Mexico and went to the Philippine Islands in search of gold. This nautical expedition fleet set forth by King Phillips II was made of 5 ships and about 350 men.  All of Western Mexico had to be mobilized to support the undertaking of this expedition.  Roads were built to bring ship building supplies from as far away as what is now Guadalajara.  To this day, the main road between Guadalajara and Barra is known as Philippine Way.  They left in the early morning of November 21, 1564 from what came to be known as Barra de la Navidad.   The Spanish-Mexican expedition set out, under the command of the governor Miguel López de Legazpi and the Augustinian friar Andrés de Urdaneta. *  The expedition crossed the Pacific in 93 days and made their first landfall in Isla de los Ladrones, which they identify by the type of sails on their boats and canoes that they saw.  This island we now know of as Guam.  From there they set sail for the islands now known as the Philippines.Legazpi did not tell the crew their final destination when they set sail and when they arrived in the Philippines he stayed.  He put is 17 year old grandson at the helm to get the expedition fleet back to Mexico.  This was return trip was both arduous and triumphant as supposedly no one had ever gone back to Mexico up until this point.

*Many historians have spent years pouring over historic documents to determine the exact location from which the expedition set sail from Mexico.  Some have contended that the further south from Barra de Navidad perhaps in Manzanillo or further still off the State of Colima.  However more have determined that there is not the slightest doubt that the expedition of López de Legazpi and Urdaneta to the Philippine Islands left from Puerto de la Navidad which certainly adds to the significant history of Barra de Navidad.

Itinerary followed by the expedition of Miguel López de Legazpi in the Philippine archipelago.

 

Today, Mexico and the Phillipines share the same currency: the peso and a small monument to Legazpi stands in Barra's main plaza commemorating his expeditions.  For Mariners anchored in the Lagoon or moored at the marina, the town of today is easily reached by water taxi or by dinghy.  The water taxi terminal sits at the foot of the Malecon.  Strolling down the Malecon, one will find the small monument to Legazpi.  Looking out to sea from the Malecon, one can watch people Surf, Sup-surf, and boogieboard the town wave at all hours of the day.  Strolling into the town one can find churches, hotels, markets, shops, restaurants, and street vendors.  The vibe of town is very relaxed, colorful, friendly, and safe.

Small Monument commemorating the relationship between Mexico and the Philippines
Town sign stands on the Malecon with the town wave in the background

Just as Barra de Navidad was the jumping off point for many early sailing expeditions, Barra de Navidad is also home to the Ocean Posse Annual Kick-off Event.  Posse events, seminars and gatherings occur on a small island across the lagoon from the town of Barra de Nadivad on Isla de la Navidad.  Many sailors have and continue to set sail from this port for the adventure of their lives.

MORE

The history of Barra de Navidad, located on the western coast of Mexico in the state of Jalisco, can be traced back to its key role in maritime activities during the 16th and 17th centuries, particularly in connection to Spanish expeditions across the Pacific. Although it’s not directly a part of Spanish territory, its history is deeply intertwined with Spanish colonization and maritime exploration during that period.

Origins of Barra de Navidad

The town's name, "Barra de Navidad," is derived from the fact that it was first recorded by the Spanish explorer Antonio de Mendoza on Christmas Day (Navidad) in 1540 during one of his expeditions. Its name—“Barra” referring to the sandbar and “Navidad” meaning Christmas—pays homage to the holiday on which it was discovered.

In the following years, Barra de Navidad became significant as a shipbuilding center and as a departure point for many expeditions across the Pacific, most notably the expedition of Miguel López de Legazpi and Andrés de Urdaneta in 1564, which successfully led to the Spanish colonization of the Philippines.

Importance in the Spanish Empire (1600–1700s)

During the 1600s, Barra de Navidad was vital in Spain’s Pacific exploration. Spanish galleons would set sail from Mexico's western coast, particularly from this area, carrying goods and supplies for expeditions to the Philippines and other parts of Asia.

However, as larger ports like Acapulco grew more prominent for trans-Pacific trade and shipbuilding, Barra de Navidad's significance as a major port diminished, especially after the Manila Galleon trade was fully established between Acapulco and Manila. Still, throughout the 17th century, the town remained important to Spanish maritime activities and was used as a stopover for vessels moving along Mexico’s Pacific coast.

Decline and Local Development

By the late 1600s and into the 18th century, Barra de Navidad transitioned from being a major player in trans-Pacific expeditions to a more localized port serving regional trade. The town and its surroundings continued to develop as a fishing village and as a harbor that supported local economies.

The town’s fortifications and shipyards slowly declined, and over time, it became less of a hub for Spanish colonial ambitions and more of a peaceful settlement.

Modern History

By the 19th and 20th centuries, Barra de Navidad had transformed into a quaint fishing village with its early significance as a Spanish port largely forgotten. It wasn’t until the latter half of the 20th century that the town became more popular as a tourist destination, known for its beaches, fishing, and tranquil atmosphere. The historical remnants of its Spanish colonial past, though not as visible as in other Mexican port towns, still linger in the area's name and its early connections to significant maritime history.

If you're looking for a more detailed investigation into archival records or reports related to the Spanish influence on this town, this would involve diving into specific colonial maritime documents that reference the town's use as a port, such as logs from early expeditions or shipbuilding records from the 16th and 17th centuries.

 

The Spanish archives contain an extensive collection of documents, manuscripts, and maps related to Spain's exploration, colonization, and administration of its overseas territories, including places like Barra de Navidad during the colonial period. Here's a breakdown of some of the key archives and what you could expect to find in relation to Barra de Navidad and Spanish maritime history:

1. Archivo General de Indias (AGI) – Seville, Spain

The Archivo General de Indias holds the most comprehensive collection of documents related to Spain’s colonial administration in the Americas and the Philippines. These records are essential for studying the maritime and colonial history of places like Barra de Navidad.

  • Shipbuilding records: Information on shipyards in New Spain (Mexico) and the construction of galleons used for expeditions, including those that departed from Barra de Navidad.
  • Expedition logs: Detailed records of Spanish expeditions from ports on the Pacific coast of Mexico to the Philippines, most notably the Legazpi-Urdaneta expedition in 1564. These logs may contain references to Barra de Navidad as a launch point.
  • Trade and navigation records: Documentation of the Manila Galleon trade route, which would have indirectly affected Barra de Navidad, including port stopovers, cargo manifests, and maritime routes used during the 16th to 18th centuries.
  • Royal correspondence: Communications between Spanish officials in New Spain and the Spanish Crown regarding exploration and trade expeditions, including requests for provisions, supplies, or ship repairs in ports like Barra de Navidad.

2. Archivo General de la Marina Álvaro de Bazán – Viso del Marqués, Spain

This archive focuses on Spain’s naval history and could contain:

  • Maritime maps and charts: Cartographic documents showing Pacific trade routes and coastal settlements, including Barra de Navidad, during the height of the Manila Galleon trade.
  • Naval dispatches and orders: Military and administrative orders concerning the defense of ports, the construction of ships, and the deployment of naval forces from western Mexico.

3. Archivo Histórico Nacional (AHN) – Madrid, Spain

The Archivo Histórico Nacional contains a vast collection of historical documents related to Spain's governance and colonial activities, including:

  • Colonial administration documents: Records from Spanish officials in New Spain who may have referenced activities in Barra de Navidad in their reports on shipbuilding, defense, and trade.
  • Missionary reports: Accounts from missionaries traveling through coastal areas of Mexico, including possible references to religious activity or conversions in Barra de Navidad and surrounding regions.

4. Real Academia de la Historia – Madrid, Spain

This institution maintains records on Spanish exploration and colonial history, including:

  • Expedition narratives: Historical accounts written by explorers, missionaries, or naval officers about their journeys to and from Spanish colonies, which may mention Barra de Navidad during the 16th and 17th centuries.
  • Diaries and letters: Personal writings from naval officers, captains, or explorers who may have stopped in Barra de Navidad during trans-Pacific voyages.

5. Biblioteca Nacional de España (BNE) – Madrid, Spain

The National Library of Spain holds manuscripts and rare books related to Spanish history, including:

  • Historical books on the conquest and colonization of New Spain: Many early Spanish chroniclers wrote about the ports and towns on Mexico's Pacific coast, including Barra de Navidad. These writings might provide context on the town’s importance during colonial times.
  • Illustrated manuscripts and maps: Early drawings and maps showing Spanish settlements, trade routes, and naval infrastructure in Mexico, which could include references to Barra de Navidad.

Potential Documents in the Spanish Archives Related to Barra de Navidad

  • 16th-17th-century maritime logs: These may detail departures from Barra de Navidad, noting its role in major expeditions.
  • Correspondence between the Spanish Crown and colonial governors: Information about shipbuilding activities or the defense of the Pacific coast, possibly mentioning Barra de Navidad.
  • Maps of the western Mexican coast: Showing Barra de Navidad in relation to other important maritime hubs in New Spain.
  • Royal decrees and orders: Issued to support naval expeditions from Mexican ports, including instructions on supplies, repairs, and ship construction.
  • Trade records: Mentioning the role of Barra de Navidad as a provisioning stop for ships headed across the Pacific to the Philippines.

Researching These Archives

Access to the documents within these archives typically requires specialized knowledge of historical research, as many of the records are written in early modern Spanish. However, these archives are actively digitizing materials, and many records can now be accessed online or through special research requests.

The Archivo General de Indias and other archives may also offer curated collections or exhibit records related to Spanish maritime exploration, which could contain references to Barra de Navidad’s role in the 16th and 17th centuries.

 


THREE GREAT STOPS EN ROUTE TO THE KICK OFF PARTY

THREE WEST COAST DESTINATIONS 
 JUST SOUTH FROM THE WEST COAST OF THE USA

EN ROUTE TO SEASON 8
KICK OFF PARTY IN BARRA

After clearing into Mexico in Ensenada, we raised our courtesy flag and continued south.

The Ocean Posse highly recommends checking into Mexico in Ensenada as opposed to Isla Cedros.  Mainly, if you are looking for a more efficient check-in, Ensenada has localized, reliable office hours and staffing in comparison to Isla Cedros.  Either way, once your vessel and crew are cleared in you are free to begin voyaging the Mexican coast at your leisure.  While making your way to the Season 8 Kick Off Party in Barra De Navidad, Mexico there are many incredible destinations along the way.  3 destinations are highlighted below: Islas San Benito del Oeste, Man of War Cove (or Puerto Magdalena in Bahia Magdalena), and Isla Isabela.

Each incredible.  Each unique.  Each only accessible by boat.

DESTINATION 1: Islas San Benito del Oeste, 🇲🇽 Mexico  

Latitude: 28°18.11N  Longitude: 115° 34.66

isla san benito
View of Isla San Benito del Oeste, MX from the southern anchorage.

The Islas San Benito is a group of three small islets that lie in the Pacific Ocean off the west coast of the Baja Peninsula, about 225nm SE of Ensenada and 55nm NW of Bahia Turtugas.  The islands are surrounded by rocks and patches of algae so careful watch is required. Many birds and marine mammals are on, along, and surrounding these shores.  There is a small community on the island; the 2001 census recorded a population of two people in Benito del Oeste The other islands are not inhabited.  There is a cooperative abalone aquafarm there worked by people from nearby islands.  If you are lucky enough to have the weather window to drop your hook, do not miss the chance.

Neighboring Isla Cedros at Sunrise.

DESTINATION 2: Man of War Cove (or Puerto Magdalena in Bahia Magdalena) 🇲🇽 

Latitude: 24°38.918'N  Longitude: 112°08.013W

Man of War Cove (or Puerto Magdalena) is merely the beginning of the wonder that is Bahia Magdalena.  After spending time on the ocean along the pacific side of the Baja, turning into the expansive and protective bay of Bahia Magdalena is quite a sight.  Bahia Magdalena is all but cut off from the ocean by a varied stretch of long, narrow, tall barrier islands.  Inside the 325 square mile bay there are expansive estuaries, sand dunes, and mangroves that a wide variety of wildlife call home.  Northern Grey Whales migrate there annually from January to April to breed and have their calves.  Bahia Magdalena is their sanctuary and it is a truly special place to enter into.  In the small village of Puerto Magdalena one may find a small tienda with light provisions.  There are multiple options in the larger town of San Carlos further east into the bay.

man of war cove mexico
Big boats are safely anchored off the village of Puerto Magdalena in the background as we dinghy tour up the nearby estuary.
The sand dunes in Magdalena Bay are great for running off your sea legs.

DESTINATION 3: Isla Isabel  🇲🇽 Mexico

21° 50.4960' N, 105° 52.9730' W

isla isabella
Blue footed boobies court, mate, and nest on Isla Isabella.

Crossing ESE from the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula, Isla Isabella is a small island found 15nm off mainland Mexico south of Mazatlan.  This island is a bird sanctuary that some people refer to as the Galapagos of Mexico.  The island is teaming with blue footed boobies, frigate birds, and iguanas.  The near shore waters are frequented by humpback whales and dolphins and home to a myriad of small fish.  The island can be explored on foot on multiple trails, in the water with a snorkel mask, or along the tide line at low tide.  There are three main anchorages each providing protection from a different wind and sea states and yet the island is a small isolated offshore island so getting a weather window to stop and enjoy Isla Isabella is an opportunity to be thankful for.  It is definitely unforgettable.

isla isabella
Frigate birds overlooking tide pools and the southern anchorage on Isla Isabella.
Ilsa Isabella is in Good Nautical
Isla Isabella is on Good Nautical.

https://goodnautical.com/mexico-pacific/anchorage/isla-isabella


Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest: Hazards and Resources

Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest:

Hazards and Resources

By Rob and Debra Murray from SV AVANT as previously published in Currents Magazine


About the Hazards

As you set out on your sail to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest, there are numerous hazards you will encounter. For most, the only defense is a good watch.

Fishing Boats

Most vessels inshore are commercial fishing boats, and many do not use AIS, so other fishermen don’t know where they are fishing. At night, they usually light up like stadiums hosting a World Cup game and are easy to spot. They tend to congregate on offshore banks or directly offshore from ports on the coast. Some fishermen have begun using AIS beacons on fishing gear, which is a bonus.

Debris

Floating debris, especially logs, can be an issue, particularly during or immediately following heavy rains or large tides, and especially off of larger rivers or inlets.

Crab Pots

Crab pots are endemic. While there has been an effort to create a crab pot free zone down the coast, its observance is marginal and equipment drifts into the the lanes anyways. The consortium that manages the lanes hasn’t met to update the agreement since 2017.  Note that in areas subject to strong current, commercial crabbers will generally use two buoys, one to hold the line up and a second on a further 10 feet or so of line that will still be visible and retrievable, even when the first buoy has been pulled under by the current. It’s easier to tangle a buoy in your prop if the current is slack and both buoys are lying idle on the surface.

Bars

Of course, everyone worries about the dreaded ‘bar crossings’ that may be encountered. After all, they do call the Columbia Bar the ‘Graveyard of the Pacific’, right? But if you’re crossing at a slack or flood in weather that isn’t horrible, none of the bar crossings are difficult. In Avant’s passage down the coast, we entered Astoria (the aforementioned ‘graveyard of the Pacific’), Coos Bay and Humboldt Bay/Eureka (widely considered the second worst bar crossing), and had no trouble at all. Our timing had us arriving at each bar on or near slack water, with a slight edge to the flood tide. Many mariners recommend using the last of the flood tide as the optimum time for a bar crossing, when the water is deepest. Waves at each entrance were under two feet, and the period was long, as predicted by the forecasts we sailed under. Charting was universally excellent.

Each harbour with a bar has a coast guard station that can offer advice, an up-to-the-minute bar report, and will even send out a cutter or other boat to guide you in if conditions warrant (we availed ourselves of this at Coos Bay when visibility dropped to under 200’). If you get caught out by a closed bar, you just have to gut it out until the bar reopens, but with modern weather forecasts and a modicum of planning,

 

this is highly unlikely. (Note that the coast guard definition of a ‘small craft’ in bar closing advisories is a vessel under 65’ in length.)

Available Resources

The following resources can make this specific passage more pleasant and perhaps less challenging:

Weather Information

No doubt you have attended courses, read books, downloaded software, studied weather patterns, learned how to download a variety of GRIBs, receive weather faxes, decode 500mb charts, toss chicken bones and generally worked really hard to prepare for cruising by becoming your own expert weather forecaster. Well, on this trip, those skills can be used for entertainment value or simply allowed to rest. (Don’t worry, you will use those skills south of the USA/Mexico border).

weather forecast zones: inshore and offshore

The NOAA forecasters are as good as it gets, and there are dedicated teams in each of Washington, Oregon and Northern California working around the clock to deliver the most accurate weather forecast possible. These forecasts are available via VHF on the usual WX channels to a considerable range offshore (usually at least 50 miles, often 100+). The forecast zones extend to 250 miles offshore in discrete steps, and the forecast zones are quite small. In addition to the forecast, each weather office provides a ‘discussion’, which underscores the reasons for the forecast offered, how the models informed (or did not inform) the forecasts, what’s likely to follow the forecast period, and any other juicy tidbits the forecaster(s) think might be interesting. You can find the discussion by going to the forecasting office’s webpage and looking for the ‘discussion’ button.

If you want to ‘play along’ with the forecaster, you can download the GRIBs (GFS and NDFD editions) and see if you get the same conclusions.

Live and near live weather observations are also available from the national weather service by finding the ‘observations’ button on the left side of the forecast page. These vary in frequency from every few hours to live, depending on location and observation station type. There are dozens of these between Neah Bay and San Francisco.

Enjoy the weather forecasts. They end at the Mexico USA border and it becomes far more basic there.

Wave Patterns

Waves offshore contribute substantially to the (dis)comfort the crew experience on the passage. Aboard Avant, we have found waves change character at depths of about 60m/200’. When the depths we sail in are under 60m, the waves seem to have a different character, a more insistent vertical component, than they do in greater depths. We always aim to be in depths greater than 60m/200’ whenever possible. When closing the coast, expect waves to ‘feel’ stronger, even if they are not visibly any bigger. Also when closing the coast, watch for secondary wave trains from reflections off shorelines where the shores are steep to, or a change in wave direction where a wave train may wrap a point or headland. And there are also outliers such as this one.

Generally, wave height has very little to do with discomfort aboard; it is the ratio of wave height to period that creates difficulty. When waves are ‘square’ (wave height in feet = wave period in seconds), no one will have any fun aboard, whether the waves are 3’ or 8’ high. We choose not to sail in square waves. When the period extends to 1.5x the wave height, conditions become much more tolerable. When the period is 2x or greater wave height, the gentle rise and fall is barely noticeable after a while.

When traveling with the wave train, the apparent period will be longer, and when traveling against the wave train the apparent period will be shorter. Take this into account when evaluating wave predictions.

Guidebooks

The NOAA Coast Pilot 7 is a free download and covers the coast from Neah Bay to the Mexican border. You will want to read chapter three, and use chapters seven to thirteen in reverse order as you transit south. This volume, over 700 pages, is a comprehensive mariners guide to the coast, its character, and its hazards. It is updated weekly, so make sure you have the latest edition downloaded.

There are commercial cruising guides available for the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, but we found they added little to what the Coast Pilot provided for free.

The USCG has produced a general bar crossing guide with lots of relevant information. Individual bar crossing guides are available as well, and some can be found on this list. The following bar crossing guides (in pdf format) provide specific information about hazards for each bar crossing:

US Coast Guard

The US Coast Guard is a highly professional military search and rescue operation, and operates multiple stations up and down the coast. From late May through Labor Day, they also operate a number of seasonal stations, some located on the jetties surrounding bar crossings. They can be reached by VHF or by telephone (numbers are in the Coast Pilot, or on their website. Note them down before you go). Their VHF coverage is typically at least 25-50 miles offshore, and we found cell coverage was passable at 8-10 miles offshore and excellent at 5. It is ALWAYS worth calling by VHF or cell phone to get a bar forecast before committing to crossing any bar on the coast.

Charts

NOAA charts (both raster and vector) are free downloads and can be used in navigation programs like OpenCPN. They are frequently updated, and OpenCPN has a chart downloader that will automatically update your electronic charts directly from NOAA. Proprietary e-chart sets like C-Map or Navionics are also updated, but not as frequently. Like milk, bread and beer, charts are best fresh, so do use the free resources to ensure you have the most up to date information aboard. Paper charts for backup can be purchased individually, or you can get a ‘chart book’ that covers large sections of the coast. We elected to do the latter, buying two MAPTECH Chartbooks that covered the coast from the Canadian border to the Mexican border.

SY AVANT 🇨🇦 Rob & Debra – Beneteau 43.5