MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI

MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI 🇫🇯

THE ORIGINAL GUNKHOLES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Levuka Signpost and town entrance
Levuka was once the capitol of Fijji

Levuka is a town on the eastern coast of the Fijian Island of Ovalau.  Up until 1877, it was the capital of Fiji.  Currently, this strangely haunted town has a population of about 5,000.  It is the economic hub of the largest of 24 settlements on the Island.  Levuka was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2013, in recognition of the port town's exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific Ocean.

Old image of Levuka

The modern town of Levuka was founded around 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands.  Levuka quickly became an important port and trading post in the Pacific.  A disparate band of settlers made up Levuka's population- traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, vagabonds, and even respectable businessmen.  Much of Levuka’s unique heritage is in its wooden architecture (highly vulnerable to fire).

The South Pacific’s first Masonic Lodge is Levuka’s only Romanesque building.

The South Pacific's first Masonic Lodge was built in 1913 and housed the Freemasons that were established in Levuka by Alexander Barrack in 1875.  There is much controversy about the Masonic fraternity in Fiji.  The dominant traditional Christian faiths consider the Masons to be devil-worshippers.   The Masonic Lodge was burned down in the 2000 Fiji coup d'etat.  The Lodge contained priceless historical artifacts and records of Levuka's history dating back to 1875.  The arsonists have yet to be identified and prosecuted.

A stunning anchorage behind the reef

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GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE

GOOD NAUTICAL: BAIE MARQUISIENNE

Nuku Hiva, Marquesas

8°54.8555'S, 140°13.4389'W

At Anchor
SV WHIRLWIND in Baie Marquesienne: Looks like we are anchored in a desert!

Baie Marquesienne is on the western facing side of the island of Nuku Hiva.  The Trade Winds generally blow from the East or SE; the swell is similar so this anchorage is generally in the lee of the island making the anchorage very calm and surprisingly dry.  Since the water is calm, the clarity is pretty good too and there is a nice spot to snorkel on the N side of the anchorage.  I saw sharks, dolphins, and lots of very colorful fish among large boulders and small bits of coral here and there.  The bay is surrounded by rocky hillsides that appear to be dry with patches of green vegetation where wild goats roam and bleat all day long.  A valley winds up into a steep canyon.

The head of the bay is a rather steep too so landing is not really an option.  We have four people onboard and were fortunate to have two that wanted to stay onboard and two that wanted to explore.  So, we got dropped off on the beach, brought a radio, some water, and headed off into the wild.  There is no marked trail to follow but there are waterways (some dry, some running, some rushing) that we followed up and up and up...until we could not go up any more.  As we travelled up the valley we found an oasis and a waterfall, wild pigs and goats, many different flowering trees and plenty of shade to stay cool.

The head of the Bay is like a steep and rocky dam separating a small (this time of year) estuary from the bay
The vegetation along the dry creek bed getting greener as we go into the valley.
Exploring up the valley from the Bay we found an oasis.
Palm Tree reaching for the sun in the steep and deep desert like canyon.
A small but mighty waterfall found. The picture does not do justice to the fact that we could not go any further up from here.
The explorers: Mike and Maurisa enjoying the Polynesian Paradise and the Desert Oasis
The sunsetting on the rocky outcropping lining the dry creek bed we followed up and down from the Bay.

https://goodnautical.com/french-polynesia/anchorage/anse-uea-bai-marquisienne


LAND TRIP: DELTA SWIZZLER BEATS THE MEXICAN HEAT AT 5000'

LAND TRIP: MV DELTA SWIZZLER CREW

BEATS THE MEXICAN HEAT AT 5000'

Mexico is known for so much: rich history, relics of ancient civilizations to modern cities, colorful art, lively music and dancing, and flavorful food to name a few.  Mark and Cindy on MV DELTA SWIZZLER have been members of the Posse since the beginning.  They have travelled down from California through the Panama Canal and back to Mexico over many years.  Currently, they are beating the heat at sea level and enjoying some of Mexico's many and varied communities at higher elevations inland.  Travelling inland is an excellent way to see more of what Mexico has to offer.

Mark and Cindy and friends enjoy a night out at Go Bistro.
Dancers on the Malecon in Jocotopec
Mexican Brassworks are functional art
Whimsical Statue on the Malecon in Jocotepec
Whimsical art featured in art gallery
Mark saddling up next to a happy hippo

MV DELTA SWIZZLER 🇺🇸 Mark & Cindy -  Vantare 58

STAY COOL AND THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES INLAND


SEASON 8 AWARD ENTRIES: PHOTO OF THE YEAR NOMINATION

SEASON 8 AWARDS: PHOTO OF THE YEAR NOMINATION

Shark swimming behind SV WANDERLUST. crystal clear water anchorage in Tahanea, French Polynesia

SY WANDERLUST 🇺🇸 Kristin, Fabio, & dog Yoda – Seawind 1600

WANDERLUST FabioWANDERLUST KristiWANDERLUST Crew

 

Woke up to my 11 year old whispering, “Mom, come here you’ve got to see this! You cannot tell where the sea stops and the sky starts!”

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND

Southern Humbacks migrate to the oceanic islands off the Pacific Coast of Panama. Here: Isla Chapera, Perlas Islands

MV SUMMERBREEZE 🇺🇸 Kurtis – Bestway 46′

Rainbow over Buenadventura Marina, Panama

SV ALICORN 🇺🇸 Devona -Lagoon 44.5

OCEAN POSSE AWARD CATEGORIES:

  • BIGGEST FISH CAUGHT*
  • PICTURE OF THE YEAR
  • YODA OF THE YEAR
  • SPEEDY AWARD – SEVENSTAR AWARD
  • THE CAPTAIN RON AWARD
  • MOST UNWELCOME VISITOR ONBOARD
  • HIGHEST WIND RECORDED
  • SPIRIT OF EXPLORATION
  • GALLEY GOD(ESS)
  • GOOD SAMARITAN OF THE YEAR
  • BOAT YOGA POSE OF THE YEAR
  • COURAGE AWARD

SUBMIT PHOTOS OF ALL NOMINATIONS TO EDITOR@OCEANPOSSE.COM

FLOR DE cANE
Flor de Caña sponsors the OCEAN Posse & awards 1 bottle of 12 year to the winner in each category annually.


POSSE PERK: UP TO DATE AND VERIFIED INFORMATION BY FELLOW YACHTS

POSSE PERK: UP TO DATE &

VERIFIED INFORMATION BY FELLOW YACHTS

Ocean Posse members share a chat group where members ask questions, share informations, and pictures.  Members appreciate the 'Up to Date & Verified Information' shared in the group chats.

Recently, Lyle on MV ALGONQUIN asked:

Hello. For those in the know could we get some information on how far out we should be contacting the agent to schedule our canal transit? Rough plan at this point is late December early January transit west to east.
Currently boat less in Canada Vancouver Island preparing the house for rental and disposing excess land assets in preparation for full time live aboard. Returning to the boat in PE mid September. 

SV MAISON DE SANTE answered from their experience going through the Panama Canal last season:

In Season 7 SV MAISON DE SANTE sailed to Panama, turned North, & went through the Canal

I don’t think any time is too early to connect to an agent because you can reach out and get the list of info they will need like photos and measurements for the boat and just be that much more prepared. South to North didn’t start getting busy until mid January last season so picking a transit date would probably be important to do by November. They don’t like changing dates so try to firm it up when you’re closer and pretty certain on a date.

I’ll reach out to Erick Galvez.

.....After Reaching out to Ocean Posse Canal Agent Erick Galvez.....

🇵🇦PANAMÁ CANAL🇵🇦

You must be near the Panamá Canal with a verified arrival either with AIS validation or a photo of your vessel anchored near the canal or at a nearby marina. If anchored, they will visually look for your vessel.

Last season, you were allowed to request a transit date prior to arriving in Panamá and it created too many issues, according to Erick Galvez.

You are allowed to leave once you have your date confirmed. The furthest out you can request your transit date is 2 months.

The average wait time for the earliest transit date is as follows, according to Erick.

December and prior: 3-4 days
January: 5-10 days
February: 10-20 days
March: 20-30 days

THANK YOU FOR ASKING QUESTIONS,

SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE AND USEFUL INFORMATION


GOOD NAUTICAL ON THE WEST COAST OF THE BAJA: BAHIA SAN QUINTIN

GOOD NAUTICAL ON THE WEST COAST OF THE BAJA:

BAHIA SAN QUINTIN, MEXICO Flag of Mexico

30° 23.7384′ N, 115° 55.5760′ W

Posse members on the West Coast are beginning to set their sights on the southbound journey.  Consider a stopover in Bahia San Quintin on the west cost of the Baja Peninsula.  Whale watching, sport fishing and fantastic seafood bring tourists to San Quintin. Oysters, mussels and abalones are harvested from the crystal clear waters of the bay so please avoid dumping waste of any kind overboard. The lagoon provides great opportunities for dinghy exploration and the remains of an abandoned British colony lie in the shore of the inner bay.

Western Baja has many beautiful beaches like this one in San Quintin

Anchorage

The anchorage on the east side of the bay is open to the SW and feels quite exposed with surf breaking even a mile offshore. Anchor on a sandy bottom in 5-10m just outside the shoal line which is marked by small breakers.

https://goodnautical.com/mexico-pacific/anchorage/bahia-san-quintin

Bahia San Quintin

BAHIA SAN QUINTIN

Bahía San Quintín, located on the Pacific coast of Baja California, Mexico, is a hidden gem for sailors seeking an authentic and tranquil maritime adventure. This natural harbor, about 190 nautical miles south of San Diego, offers a unique blend of pristine beauty, rich marine life, and a glimpse into the unspoiled wilderness of Baja California.

Geography and Navigation

Bahía San Quintín is a broad, sheltered bay framed by volcanic hills and sandy beaches, providing excellent protection from the Pacific’s swells. The bay is about 6 miles wide and 11 miles long, offering ample anchorage space with good holding ground in sand and mud. The entrance to the bay can be tricky, especially for first-time visitors, due to shifting sandbars and shallow areas. It is advisable to enter during daylight with good visibility and to use updated nautical charts. Depth sounders and GPS are essential tools for navigating safely into the bay.

Weather and Climate

The climate in Bahía San Quintín is typically mild and dry, with average temperatures ranging from the mid-50s to the mid-70s Fahrenheit. The area enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with dry summers and mild, wet winters. Fog can be a common occurrence, especially in the mornings, so sailors should be prepared for reduced visibility at times. Winds are predominantly from the northwest, providing favorable sailing conditions for those heading south.

Flora and Fauna

Bahía San Quintín is a haven for nature lovers. The bay and its surrounding areas are home to a diverse array of wildlife. Birdwatchers will be delighted by the presence of numerous bird species, including the endangered black brant, as well as various shorebirds and waterfowl. The bay’s waters teem with marine life, making it a popular spot for fishing and snorkeling. Anglers can expect to catch species such as halibut, sea bass, and yellowtail.

Activities and Attractions

For sailors looking to stretch their legs, the area offers plenty of onshore activities. The surrounding landscape is perfect for hiking, with trails leading through volcanic rock formations and coastal dunes. The nearby fishing village of San Quintín provides a glimpse into the local culture and an opportunity to sample fresh seafood, particularly the region’s renowned oysters and clams. Visiting the local oyster farms can be a fascinating experience, offering insights into the aquaculture practices that sustain the local economy.

Services and Facilities

While Bahía San Quintín is relatively undeveloped compared to more popular tourist destinations, it offers essential services for visiting sailors. There are a few basic facilities, including fuel, provisions, and some repair services available in the village of San Quintín. It is advisable to stock up on necessary supplies before arriving, as options may be limited. For those needing more extensive services, the port of Ensenada, located about 130 nautical miles to the north, provides a wider range of amenities, including marinas, chandleries, and professional repair services.

Conservation and Sustainability

Bahía San Quintín is part of a protected natural area, and visitors are encouraged to respect the environment and practice sustainable boating. Efforts to preserve the bay’s natural beauty and biodiversity are ongoing, and sailors can contribute by following Leave No Trace principles, minimizing waste, and avoiding damage to sensitive habitats such as seagrass beds and bird nesting areas.

Conclusion

Bahía San Quintín offers a serene and rewarding destination for sailors looking to explore the less-traveled waters of Baja California. Its natural beauty, abundant wildlife, and tranquil atmosphere make it an ideal spot for those seeking to experience the unspoiled charm of Mexico’s Pacific coast. Whether anchoring in its calm waters, exploring its diverse ecosystems, or engaging with the local community, sailors will find Bahía San Quintín to be a memorable and enriching part of their maritime journey.

Landing on the Beach in High Surf

Landing on the beach in high surf at Bahía San Quintín can be challenging and requires careful planning and execution. The key to a successful landing is timing and understanding the wave patterns. It is essential to observe the surf for a period to identify any lulls between sets of larger waves. When ready, approach the beach at a 90-degree angle, maintaining enough speed to stay ahead of the breaking waves. As you near the shore, reduce speed and be prepared to jump out and pull the dinghy up the beach swiftly to avoid it being swamped by incoming waves. Ensure all equipment and passengers are secure, and wear appropriate safety gear such as life jackets. Landing in high surf can be risky, so if conditions seem too dangerous, it might be best to wait for calmer seas or find a more sheltered landing spot within the bay.

Bahia San Quintin


MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG - Erick & Jenny

MEET THE FLEET: SV WINDSONG

Erick & Jenny

Turning a dream into reality, Erick and Jenny are sailing through the South Pacific.

It was a lifelong dream of mine to sail my own boat to beautiful remote places in search of perfect, empty surf breaks, enjoying fishing and other adventures along the way. Around 2007, after my first few years of office work after college, I decided to chase the dream and see if I could make it a reality. Having no prior experience, I took a few sailing lessons to see if it was something I would enjoy and was immediately hooked. Instead of taking a sensible route towards boat ownership, I dove headfirst into buying a derelict project boat and spent the next 10 years fully rebuilding Windsong, a 1975 Downeaster 38 Cutter, into a practically brand new (yet still old) boat.  Having little to no relevant skills, I had to learn everything as I went, which in the end gave me a great set of knowledge and experience concerning the ins and outs of the boat.

Once Windsong was as complete as she could be in late 2019, my partner Jenny and I got married, and within a month we moved aboard and set sail for our honeymoon.  Leaving from our home port, St. Augustine, FL, and bounced our way down the Florida intercoastal waterway to get a feel for life on the move and at anchor. We started our journey with our senior boxer dog, Koda, who took to cruising life with great happiness as she was able to spend all day, every day with us.  After a month or so of Florida coastal cruising, we crossed over to the Bahamas and island hopped for the next few months until Covid shut most of the country down.  We sailed back to the US and spent the next summer between South Carolina and Florida. Unfortunately, Koda was not long for the world at this time, so she was put to rest. While it was a devastating moment for us, it did free us up to sail greater distances.  We went back to the Bahamas and spent a full season sailing from the Abacos all the way down to Great Inagua. From there we crossed directly to Panama on our first long passage across the Caribbean Sea.

WINDSONG setting out to sea.

We spent almost two years in Panama, mostly in Bocas Del Toro on the Caribbean side. With great surfing, protected anchorages, affordable living, and fantastic people; it was hard to not stay forever. However, we decided our sailing days were not done, and wanted to cross the Pacific and experience the remote South Pacific tropics. We geared the boat up a bit more, and once all was ready, we first crossed the Panama Canal and set sail to the Galapagos.  We applied for and received a 1-year visa for French Polynesia, so after 24 days at sea from the Galapagos we arrived in the Marquesas and then took our time going through the French Polynesian islands, savoring each bit along the way.  One year later, we set sail from French Polynesia and with some stops along the way we are now in Fiji, where we will spend the rest of the 2024 cruising season.   We do not know where the winds will take us next, but we are looking forward to exploring these lovely islands for as long as they captivate us.

Erick loves to surf and looks for it where they sail
Jenny with a view

SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸Erick & Jenny - Downeaster Cutter 38′

Erick - WindsongJenny - Windsong


SV WINDSONG SAILS FROM FRENCH POLYNESIA TO FIJI

SOUTH PACIFIC PASSAGE REPORT:

French Polynesia to Fiji, with stops in Aitutaki and Vava’u, Tonga.

with Erick & Jenny on SV WINDSONG

Erick and the sea ahead
Jenny at ease in the cockpit

Having cleared out of French Polynesia in Bora Bora, we made way towards French Polynesia’s westernmost settled island of Maupiti to wait for our weather window to sail west towards Tonga, and our ultimate destination of Fiji. We entered Maupiti through the narrow and daunting pass, and dropped anchor in the beautiful lagoon, ready to spend a few days enjoying the last taste of French Polynesia. Those few days ultimately ended up being over three weeks, as the South Pacific weather patterns decided to send system after system of immense swells towards French Polynesia, pinning us into Maupiti.

Maupiti’s one pass faces directly south, as such it receives the dominant southerly swells face on. When swells reach 2 meters and above, it is unsafe to navigate in a small sailboat not only due to the waves nearly closing out the channel, but also the strong current caused by all the water needing to escape the lagoon. The dominant winds oppose the current, causing chaotic standing waves.  While there were a few times where the wind forecast looked good for us to leave towards Tonga, the waves kept us pinned in for all those weeks.

Once the wait was finally over, we had a clear weather window to sail west and the swells died down. We enjoyed one final night in Maupiti experiencing the opening ceremonies of the French Polynesian Heiva festival, a lovely way to send us off to the next adventure.  The next morning, we set sail, having beautiful sunny skies and perfect 15-17 knots downwind.  Only two days into the passage, a trough which was in the forecast but was previously showing to be quick and mild, had now strengthened and pushed more north, right into our path in about 5 days. One more day’s forecast update now showed we would enter a nasty zone of rotating winds as the trough pushed through our path.  We decided to alter course further South to Aitutaki, Cook Islands.

Birds change course and so do boats: SV WINDSONG alters course and favor of better weather.

We spent a lovely 10 days in Aitutaki waiting out the front, which showed some nasty rotating winds as we were at anchor, giving us comfort that we made the right decision to put into port instead of carrying on at sea.  Once conditions settled, we set out to Tonga.  We saw another weak trough coming through on the forecast, so we aimed northwest to get out of the potential zone of thunderstorms or squalls.  The first few days were prefect sailing, and once the trough moved below us we had one day of dead calm wind, which we motored through, before the southeasterlies came back. We escaped the squalls thankfully, and now turned more southeast towards Tonga.

The next few days were among the roughest we have had at sea.  While the winds were steady at 20-25 knots, it was the seas that gave us the most trouble. 3 meters, very short period, coming from multiple directions.  It was the first time in almost 10,000 nm sailed that both of us felt seasick.  We always keep night watches in the cockpit, but waves would regularly break over the boat, soaking us and making for uncomfortable conditions; as such we spent much of our time below.  The next three days passed like this, and we finally made landfall in Vava’u Tonga, happy to have the long part of the “dangerous middle” Pacific past us.

Night sailing full moon love

With a few weeks of time enjoyed in Tonga, we set sail for the last of our long passages to Fiji.  This passage was just about the best sailing we have ever experienced, easy light winds and mellow seas.  Humpback whales breaching here and there, fish on the lines, easy motion, sunny skies and a stunning full moon.  We are now settled into Fiji and look forward to only needing to do short hop sails for the rest of the season.

A tranquil anchorage: a beacon of hope as one's endurance is pressed out at sea

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURE ON THE WATER

SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸 Erick & Jenny - Downeaster Cutter 38′

https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SV-Windsong-2/?useGoogle
fiji

Erick - WindsongJenny - Windsong

 


CRUISING GREECE: AN UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY FROM ATHENS TO CHAKIDA, GREECE

CRUISING GREECE:

AN UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY FROM ATHENS TO CHALKIDA, GREECE

Karen and Darren Simpson aboard SV SMALL WORLD III 🌎 are part of the Atlantic (OCEAN) Posse currently cruising in and around Greece.  This week they left the comforts and pleasure of a marina in Athens to cruise to Chalkida, Greece.  Here they share some of their journey:
Karen & Darren aboard SV SMALL WORLD III
Twin Sails filled sailing to Chalkida, Greece
The Old Bridge of Chalkida spanning the Euripus Strait also known as the bridge between two lands and two seas

 

Chalkida, (is) a city perched amphitheatrically in central Evia.  Chalkida straddles the beguiling Strait of Evripos, bridging the coast of Evia and Boeotian mainland. A modern metropolis pulsating with history, Chalkida embraces its maritime heritage and hospitable spirit. The city's allure lies in its unique dance with nature—the captivating tidal spectacle of the Gulf of Evia.

Anchorage in Chalkida, Greece
clear water to anchor in

The one thing Chalkida is world-famous for is the peculiar tidal currents that flow interchangeably north-to-south and south-to-north through the Euripus Strait between the island and the mainland. It is this phenomenon that has given the city the nickname: Crazy Waters.

Reversing tidal currents are caused by the moon’s gravity and occur in all straits worldwide, but they are mostly imperceptible by the human senses. It is the distinct geography of Chalkida’s strait—its double-funnel shape among other factors—that make the local currents particularly strong.

The flow peaks at an astounding speed of 12 km per hour, which, for context, is comparable to torrents during floods. For most of the month, the current changes direction about every six hours with a clock’s regularity. But for a few days around the half-moons, it loses its pattern altogether, moving back and forth in chaotic ways.

The 38-meters-wide strait is spanned by an 8-meter-tall bridge, which, constructed in 1963, is the latest of a long succession of bridges dating back to antiquity. The bridge is withdrawn usually once every evening to allow for large vessels to traverse the strait. Given the powerful stream with its notorious vortexes, it requires skillful maneuvering to sail through. It is quite an impressive spectacle to behold. Due to the unpredictability of the currents, the bridge’s opening times are not standard. Estimations are stated on a screen on the spot and live views of the bridge can be seen here.

If you’re now thinking that it’d be great fun to jump from the bridge, you are totally right. But it is unfortunately illegal. However, this detail wouldn’t stop us when we were kids… Free-falling for a short distance, we’d then be engulfed and drifted around by the currents, losing every sense of direction within this dark whirlpool of pressing liquid, for up to half a minute. By the time we’d reach the surface, we could be more than 50 meters away from the bridge, laughing and waving at the coastguards who were always a little too late to stop us.

Jan and Karen enjoying the evening in Chalkida
Temple of Aphaia
Temple of Poseiden on the hilltop
Anchored in Paros. Med ties in the foreground
Strong Columns still standing

SV SMALL WORLD III 🇻🇮 Karen & Darren - Bristol 47

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURE