SV REMEDY DOUBLES BACK OVERLAND TO NICARAGUA
SV REMEDY DOUBLES BACK OVERLAND TO NICARAGUA
WARNING: Do not read while hungry or thirsty (for Rum or Adventure)
Karl and Natalie Leibensperger, from SV REMEDY, are currently exploring Nicaragua overland from Costa Rica and shares some details and highlights of their experiences along the way:
Due to time constraints we were not able to visit the Port of Puesta Del Sol in Northern Nicaragua but instead headed directly to Costa Rica. While staying in Marina Papagayo we planned a 10 day trip to Nicaragua with Va Pues Travel. The company organizes custom private tours of Nicaragua. Our trip started with a transfer from Liberia to Peñas Blancas. There are several transfer companies and the prices range from $85 to $120 each way. We used Best Ride Costa Rica, +506 8629 0242 with a rate of $85 each way. The transfer takes about 90 minutes. It is a pretty interesting drive north to the border. The craziest thing is that there is 9km of backed up semi trucks that wait days to get into Nicaragua. We drove most of the 9km on the wrong side of the road swerving in and out of traffic. It made for an eventful ride.
Once at the border the Costa Rican immigration office is within a few steps of where your transfer is able to drive. Our English speaking border agent took our passports, instructed us to pay our exit taxes at a bank machine ($8 US PP) and then once paid he stamped our passports and sent us on our way towards Nicaragua. There is a marked walkway to the border and the entire walk is about 300 meters. Before getting to the Nicaraguan immigration office you must show your passport to an official at a check point. They are looking for your exit stamp from Costa Rica. The Nicaragua immigration office is a huge blue and white building, really impossible to miss. You will need $1 US PP cash to get in the door. Once inside, the immigration official will need your passport, your hotel name, and your profession. The cost is $13 US PP in cash. They will give you two official papers that are needed to exit the country. Once this is completed all luggage is placed through an X-ray machine and then you are on your way. Welcome to Nicaragua!
We had a tour guide waiting for us but there is an Enterprise Car Rental at the Nicaraguan border. I'll add that there is also one on the Costa Rican Border also. Our first stop was Rivas, here we caught a very crowded transport ferry to Ometepe Island.
After the return ferry ride back to Rivas we moved on to the Capital City of Granada. We stayed at the Hotel Plaza Colon, which is a beautifully refurbished colonial house overlooking Granada's Central Park. Bring your bathing suit to cool off in their wonderful center court pool.
On the drive to Granada we stopped in Catarina for a ceramic pottery factory tour. The indigenous population has handed down this artwork to the current generation and it is their main livelihood in this area. The pottery in some of the shops is very detailed and exquisite. We did buy several pieces for our home in Florida.
distance is Lake Nicaragua. The picture was taken from the city of
Catarina, which is famous for their handmade pottery. The pottery is
absolutely beautiful. We purchased quite a few pieces that will be
shipped to the US.
Granada is a Colonial City with a rich history. If you visit Granada I highly recommend having a city tour, as without a guide I would not have learned as much of her History. Since it was so hot we cheated on our walk and hired a horse and carriage for $20. I told Karl it was the best $20 I've spent in a long time. An interesting stop was at a tile factory that has been in business since 1905. They make all of the colorful tile around the city, both in buildings and on the sidewalks. They were kind enough to show us their tile making process during our impromptu stop.
Two suggestions.
After two nights in Granada our trip led us to Estili. It is the location of most of the cigar factories in Nicaragua. Karl's goal was to visit the Padron Cigar Factory but to his disappointment they are extremely private and do not have tours. In fact, they do not sell their cigars in Nicaragua. They are all exported. (So, we found a) cigar factory tour in Estili and (found) some good quality cigars to bring back with us.
(We had) an amazing tour of AJ Fernandez Cigar Factory. Mario was our English speaking guide. After working for AJ Fernandez for 7 years, he has learned and is able to explain the cigar process in detail. His background is that he has an Agriculture Degree, so he can answer specific questions about the process that I don't think you would get in other locations. It takes about 5 years and 300 hands to produce one cigar. The facility is enormous and the process is just as complicated as making wine or whiskey. He used those analogies throughout the tour. I was not aware of the detail that goes into each batch of cigars. The tour lasted about an hour and I would rate this as one of our top factory tours. Technically, purchasing cigars is not possible, but in Nicaragua everything is possible. Estili is a bit out of the tourist zone but completely worth the stop.
This is just one of the rooms that processes the tobacco. This is sorting room for the tobacco that becomes the wrapper.
As of this publication, Karl and Natalie are continuing north to Leon, Nicaragua. Karl and Natalie finish by sharing:
As Posse members we are making our way to Flor de Caña hoping to purchase some well aged rum. (Excellent idea!!)
Southern and middle Nicaragua have been beautiful and I am thankful we are able to spend 10 days touring this wonderful country.
Karl & Natalie Leibensperger - 2019 Leopard 45
THANK YOU SV REMEDY FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURE ALONG THE WAY!
Ocean Posse Members, please share your stories by sending them to editor@oceanposse.com.
Maurisa, the editor, is always happy to receive your stories and share them out. Together we can inspire one another!
POSSE PERK: 🗺️3 DAYS OF LEARNING SEMINARS
POSSE PERK: 🗺️3 DAYS OF LEARNING SEMINARS
INCLUDED WITH OCEAN POSSE SIGN UPS
coming up in Safe Harbor, San Diego
October 23-25, 2024 @ Safe Harbor South Bay, San Diego
https://oceanposse.com/events/san-diego-seminar-series/
Sneak a Peak at the Seminars and Schedule...
WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 23rd, 2024 ● SEMINARS
$ 45 per person x day or FREE
FOR OCEAN ° PANAMA ° SOUTH PACIFIC POSSE PARTICIPANTS
09:00
Cruising down Pacific Mexico
10:00
Water Makers + Plumbing in Paradise
11:30
Diesel Engines & Generators and preventative Maintenance
12:30 LUNCH
Open CPN – installation and integration (PC + MAC )
14:00
Rigging 101 Standing and Running
15:30
Weather Weather Weather – planning – routing – underway
16:30
Crew the good the bad and the ugly
17:00
Destination Costa Rica and Nicaragua
THURSDAY OCTOBER 24th, 2024 ● SEMINARS
09:00
South Pacific – French Polynesia – Cook Islands – Tonga & Fiji
10:00
Safety Security and Emergencies outside the US and what to expect
11:00
Electrical Systems – Batteries, Chargers, Alternators, Solar Panels
12:30 LUNCH
Cruising in Panama + the Panama Canal
14:00
Where and how to repair boats outside the US
15:30
The tropics – Refrigeration, AC, Shading, Airflow + other ways to stay cool
17:00
Destination Colombia, Jamaica & Bay of Islands Honduras
FRIDAY OCTOBER 25th, 2024 ● SEMINARS + PARTY
09:00
Destination Belize & Rio Dulce Guatemala
10:00
Communications onboard, underway and on shore
11:30
The fundamentals of wires, connectors and fuses
12:30 LUNCH
Open CPN – Satellite Charts – Use Cases and Satellite Chart creation
14:00
Chart Accuracy, Navigation Trips and Tricks & Tracking
15:30
Provisioning, Propane and Fuel – where to replenish
17:00 – 21:00 PPPPARTY
FLEET UPDATE 2024-09-16
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EXPLORING INLAND TO BELGIUM
AFTER CROSSING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN
SV QUESO GRANDE II GOES INLAND TO BELGIUM
SV QUESO GRANDE II 🇺🇸 Lance & Sherri – Seawind 1260 41′
Looks like your sea legs are taking you far; Thanks for sharing!
: The Venice of the North
Nestled in the northwest of Belgium, Bruges is a city that seems to have been plucked straight out of a fairy tale. With its picturesque canals, medieval architecture, and cobbled streets, it is no wonder that Bruges is often referred to as the “Venice of the North.” This enchanting city has preserved its medieval charm, making it one of Europe’s most beloved destinations.
A Historical Tapestry
Bruges’ history dates back to the 9th century when it was founded by the Vikings. By the 12th century, Bruges had become a bustling trading hub, thanks to its strategic location and access to the North Sea. The city’s prosperity peaked in the 14th century when it was one of the leading cities of the Hanseatic League, a powerful commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe.
The wealth generated by trade is still evident today in Bruges’ stunning architecture. The city is a treasure trove of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings, many of which have been meticulously preserved. The Belfry of Bruges, a medieval bell tower in the city’s heart, is one of its most iconic landmarks. Climbing the 366 steps to the top offers panoramic views of the city and is well worth the effort.
The Canals of Bruges
Bruges is famous for its network of canals, which wind their way through the city and have earned it the nickname “Venice of the North.” These waterways were once vital for trade, allowing goods to be transported easily throughout the city. Today, they provide a scenic way to explore Bruges. A boat tour along the canals offers a unique perspective of the city’s stunning architecture and charming bridges.
Art and Culture
Art lovers will find plenty to admire in Bruges. The city is home to several world-class museums, including the Groeningemuseum, which houses an impressive collection of Flemish Primitive art. Works by masters such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling can be found here, offering a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of the region.
In addition to its museums, Bruges is famous for its lace-making tradition. Lace has been made in Bruges for centuries, and visitors can learn about this delicate craft at the Lace Center, where demonstrations are held regularly.
Culinary Delights
No visit to Bruges would be complete without indulging in its culinary offerings. Belgian chocolate is renowned worldwide, and Bruges is home to some of the country’s best chocolatiers. A stroll through the city’s streets will reveal numerous chocolate shops, each offering a tempting array of pralines, truffles, and other sweet treats.
Bruges is also a great place to sample traditional Belgian cuisine. Mussels and fries, known as “moules-frites,” are a must-try dish, as is the hearty Flemish beef stew, “carbonade flamande.” Of course, no meal in Belgium is complete without a glass of locally brewed beer. Bruges has several breweries, each producing unique and flavorful beers that are sure to delight any connoisseur.
A Timeless Charm
What makes Bruges truly special is its ability to transport visitors back in time. The city’s medieval architecture, cobbled streets, and tranquil canals create an atmosphere that is both romantic and timeless. Whether you’re exploring the historic Markt square, visiting the Basilica of the Holy Blood, or simply enjoying a leisurely boat ride, Bruges offers an experience unlike any other.
Bruges is more than just a city; it is a journey through history, art, and culture. Its charm lies in its ability to blend the old with the new, offering visitors a glimpse into the past while still being a vibrant and lively place to explore. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a romantic getaway, Bruges has something to offer everyone.
ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA'S ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA is in French Polynesia in the South Pacific. Their recent report shares a few different ways to explore the islands of Moorea and Tahiti:
We rented a scooter and toured the island of Moorea yesterday and did a 9-mile hike up to Belvedere and back on the 3-cocotier trail a few days ago...found many amazing views. Today, we took the ferry across to Tahiti at 7 am, rented a scooter and toured the whole island with several beautiful stops along the way. We sprinkled this tour with some provisioning that we could fit in backpacks and boxes on our rented scooter.
VIVASweet bike lane!
SV VIVA Pierre & Marie - Amel 52'
Adventurous and Practical! Thank you for sharing VIVA!
FLEET UPDATE 2024-08-25
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![Hurricane Beryl (/ˈbɛr.əl/) was a deadly and destructive Category 5 Atlantic hurricane that impacted parts of the Caribbean, the Yucatán Peninsula, and the Gulf Coast of the United States in late June and early July 2024. It was the earliest-forming Category 5 hurricane on record and the second such storm in the month of July, the other being 2005's Hurricane Emily. Beryl was also the strongest hurricane to develop within the Main Development Region (MDR) of the Atlantic before the month of July. The second named storm, first hurricane, and first major hurricane[nb 1] of the 2024 Atlantic hurricane season, Beryl broke many meteorological records for the months of June and July, primarily for its unusual location, intensity, and longevity.]( https://oceanposse.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/25/content_036.jpg)
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BIRDS NESTING ABOARD IN COSTA RICA
BIRDS NESTING ABOARD IN COSTA RICA
SV FIREFLY, currently moored at Marina Papagayo in Costa Rica, recently had the opportunity to have some visitors aboard that made themselves right at home....and then up and left. No harm, no foul, and enjoyed being witness to such a precious time in a birds life.
Brenda shares the story:
.
. I did witness the Oriole enter into one of the displaced nests so all must have been good.
SV FIREFLY Brenda & Ted - Catalina 47
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THE SIGHTS WHERE YOU ARE!
GUNKHOLING FROM SAN DIEGO TO BARRA DE NAVIDAD
GUNKHOLE *
FROM SAN DIEGO TO
BARRA DE NAVIDAD 
MX
* to make a series of short pleasure trips by boat, as from bay to bay
⓪ San Diego Police Dock 32° 42.537′ N 117° 14.10543′ W – ⛽💧
① Ensenada Cruiseport Village Marina 31° 51.2766′ N 116° 37.2433′ W 60 nm ⛽💧
② Punta Santo Tomas 31° 33.1589 N 116° 40.6879 W 18 nm
③ Bahia Colonet Bight 30° 57.9028 N 116° 17.0747 W 40 nm
④ Isla San Martin North Bay 30° 29.178 N 116° 6.1356 W 30 nm
⑤ Bahia San Quintin 30° 22.5924′ N 115° 59.0887′ W 9 nm
⑥ Isla San Gernomio 29° 47.3276′ N 115° 47.4296′ W 37 nm
⑦ Fondadero San Carlos 29° 37.3596′ N 115° 28.565′ W 19 nm
⑧ Isla Cedros N 28° 20.212′ N 115° 11.434′ W 79 nm
⑨ Turtle Bay / Bahia Tortugas 27° 41.2544′ N 114° 53.2545′ W 42 nm⛽💧
⑩ Bahia Asuncion 27° 08.1355′ N 114° 17.4206′ W 46 nm⛽ 💧
⑪ Bahia San Hipolito 26° 59.3362′ N 113° 57.6966′ W 20 nm
⑫ Bahia Ballenas 26° 46.0426′ N 113° 30.0266′ W 28 nm
⑬ San Juanico / Scorpion Bay 26° 14.7986′ N 112° 28.333′ W 64 nm
⑭ Bahia Santa Maria 24° 46.133′ N 112° 15.441′ W 90 nm
⑮ Cabo San Lucas East 22° 53.304′ N 109° 53.844′ W *172 nm ⛽💧
⑯ Los Frailes 23° 22.836′ N 109° 25.297′ W 40 nm
⑰ Isla de Pajaros 23° 15.2645′ N 106° 28.3305′ W *163 nm ⛽💧
⑱ Isla Isabella Anchorage South 21° 50.5266′ N 105° 52.907′ W 91 nm
⑲ San Blas Outer Anchorage 21° 31.043′ N 105° 14.566′ W 41 nm ⛽💧
⑳ Punta de Mita 20° 45.764′ N 105° 31.15′ W 48 nm ⛽💧
㉑ Punta Ipala 20° 14.2306′ N 105° 34.4255′ W 32 nm
㉒ Chamela – N 19° 35.0404′ N 105° 7.8663′ W 47 nm
㉓ Isla Paraiso – E 19° 28.6194′ N 105° 3.7637′ W 8 nm
㉔ Tenacatita – Inner Bay 19° 17.9207′ N 104° 50.1528′ W 17 nm
㉕ Marina Puerto Navidad 19° 11.7294′ N 104° 40.8748′ W 11 nm ⛽💧
*overnight
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SAFETY ALERT: A SAILBOAT HITS A REEF IN FIJI: LESSONS LEARNED
SAFETY ALERT: A SAILBOAT HITS A REEF IN FIJI
*LESSONS LEARNED*
Some people say that sailing in Fiji is so difficult that the longer one sails there hitting a reef at some point is unavoidable. And then, some people say that with careful planning, constant vigilance, sticking to vetted tracks on Open CPN, and a conservative eye on the weather, one can safely navigate in Fiji. AND, Anywhere on this continuum accidents can and do happen.
Last week a singlehanded sailor hit a reef in Fiji. Below we will be careful to only look at the facts for lessons to be learned and avoid armchair judgements. As mariners we want to know what went wrong and what lessons can be learned so that we can all be safer in the future.
Here is what we know happened:
- A single-handed sailor planned to sail from a marina in Fiji to an atoll. This requires entering the atoll through a clear passage in the reef. There is current to contend with and timing through the pass is very important.
- The route was pre-planned, and the timing was taken into consideration.
- Open CPN was up to date with a vetted track loaded to follow.
- A GPS dongle is used as a locating device for Open CPN on the computer.
- Navionics onboard as well.
- The morning of departure was cloudy and rainy so the computer with Open CPN had to be kept down below.
- A few miles out of the marina, the GPS was not tracking & Open CPN showed the boat still in the slip in the marina
- Sailor decides to use and follow waypoints on Navionics and continue as planned.
(NOTE: the waypoints used are unknown)
- When the sailor approached the reef, the weather was bad and there were whitecaps everywhere.
- The sailor could not see the reef in the whitecaps under the cloudy sky.
- The boat hit the reef outside entrance channel and off planned course to entrance.
Tracks showing routes entering pass and boat (red) off course pinned on a reef
Thankfully, with local help, the boat was freed of the reef, the boat is still afloat, and the captain is safe.
Take Aways from SV MONSOON:
- The boat is an old, stout, and thick fiberglass vessel: The Thickness of the hull was probably a saving grace.
- If the day dawns cloudy or stormy, consider waiting for better weather.
- Travelling through passages in reefs are best done under clear sunny skies mid-day for best visibility.
- Open CPN with up to date satellite charts and previously use tracks by similar boats are the best navigational aides in FIJI.
- If the GPS is not tracking, trouble shoot before continuing.
- No matter how many miles one has sailed, there is no room for complacency in Fiji.
Additional take away from SV AVANT
- Patience is often a mariners second best friend (with luck always being the first and best).
