VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART ON CRUISING SEASON ON THE PACIFIC COAST

VESSELS ARE GETTING A JUMPSTART

ON CRUISING SEASON IN MEXICO, COSTA RICA, & PANAMA

 

The crew of SV PERCEPTION is happy to be on the move again. Sunset at anchor off Tamarindo Costa Rica.

SY PERCEPTION 🇺🇸 Jim & Melinda & Grace - Lagoon 42'

 

Let the Adventure begin! SV ZORBA is leaving Bocas del Torro for the San Blass Islands of Panama

SV ZORBA 🇲🇭 Tomer & Limor – Tayana 48’

 

 

It’s go time for SV OKISOLLO! Ready to be heading south again! Adios Puerto Penasco.  See you soon in Barra de Navidad!

 

FAIR WINDS

by EDITOR

SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON OUTLOOK

SOUTH PACIFIC TROPICAL CYCLONE SEASON

NOVEMBER 1-APRIL 30

NEW OUTLOOK RELEASED

Tropical cyclones, like hurricanes, are known for their powerful winds, heavy rains, and potential to cause significant destruction.  Tropical cyclones frequently affect the southern Pacific and can pose serious threats to both public health and infrastructure.  All vessels are advised to have a plan of action for the cyclone season.

Tropical cyclone risk for the 2024-25 season

According to New Zealand's National Institute of Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) and Metservice, the South Pacific may see either fewer or a normal number of tropical cyclones this season.  The cyclone season in the South Pacific starts November 1 and runs until the April 30, with the typical 'peak' of the season being January - March.   The outlook that has recently been released, "Southwest Pacific Tropical Cyclone Outlook - October 2024" describes a slower start to the Cyclone season, potentially less cyclone risk overall in the eastern region while potentially elevated risk in the western region.  According to the NIWA Outlook, "As of early October 2024, sea surface temperatures across the eastern and central equatorial Pacific Ocean are below average and close to La Niña thresholds."  Forecasters are observing more La Niña-like characteristics that tend to reduce risk in the east and elevate risk in the west where warmer water may 'stack up' later in the season.  As with many weather outlooks of late there continues to be caution that while there may be less risk in the frequency of tropical storms this season, there is still a risk that those that come may intensify more rapidly or simply be very intense.

Number of predicted named tropical cyclones interacting with an island group for the 2024-25 season

For cruisers in French Polynesia South Pacific Posse member Scott on Tartaruga shares:

What is critical to following storms in FP is the location of the MJO. Madden Julien Oscillation. You can research that but when that is over French Poly that is when the highest probability of big storms occur. Per some local Tahiti sailors they almost never have any cyclonic storms outside of MJO events. This last season Fiji announced the MJO forecast and when it would be over FP and boom the storms came. Also note that Fiji is the official metrological organization for these storms. Another important data point is they name their storms very early, mean the wind scale starts at a much lower number....NOAA tracks (the MJO) closely as well. I would educate yourself on how to read the graph. It is a bit strange.

Fiji Meteorological Service Regional Specialized Meteorological Centre Nadi-Tropical Cyclone Centre also just released a forecast on the upcoming tropical Cyclone season.  Their predictions are similar.

Total number of TCs forecasted for the RSMC Nadi-TCC AoR.

Stay alert on great weather sites including:

by EDITOR

MEXICO ENTRY AND EXIT REQUIREMENTS

MEXICO ENTRY AND EXIT REQUIREMENTS

FOR FOREIGN FLAGGED VESSELS

New guide for private boats visiting Mexico is very helpful.
Knowing entry and exit requirements for the countries you plan to visit will make the impending procedure so much easier.  Quick internet searches will often guide you right to the government website that will lay out requirements which include paperwork and fees.  Many countries have been upgrading and modernizing their systems. Mexico’s system has been changing over the last few years and unfortunately made many waves forcing some cruisers to abandon their cruising plans or turn their bow a completely different direction last year.  Mexico now has many of their entry and exit procedures available online.  The online resources do not eliminate the need to visit government offices upon entry or exit; rather, they hasten the process of getting information into the 'system' that ultimately keeps track of who and what is coming and going across their boarders.  Knowing the recent pitfalls and the newest procedures available will save a lot of time and avoid potential mishaps.
The VISITING MEXICO BY PRIVATE BOAT Quick Guide put out by the tourism board is a succinct introduction to private vessel and crew entry requirements.  The guide has detailed and simplified Mexican check in procedures. The key take away is that there are two main requirements foreign flagged vessels and crew must fulfill in order to properly clear into Mexico. The wonderful news is that both procedures can be started online now.
  1. Paperwork and fees for the people (and animals) onboard the vessel.
    • This involves getting tourist visas through Immigration and going through customs.  Visitors need to provide their passport, crew list, and vessel documentation.
  2. Paperwork and fees for the Vessel to obtain a TIP.
    • TIP’s are temporary Import Permits that boat owners apply for and pay for upon entry into Mexico. Captains present vessel and ownership documentation for permit.  The TIP is on the vessel and the ownership of the vessel is unimportant. The fee is less than $100 and yet the paperwork associated with it is the vessel’s Golden ticket into Mexico.  TIP’s for foreign flagged vessels are valid for ten years in Mexican waters. Foreign vessels are meant to cancel their TIP upon exiting Mexican waters.

When a vessel leaves Mexico without cancelling their TIP and this same vessel tries to enter Mexico complications arise.  In recent years, one of the biggest challenges cruisers entering Mexico have faced is discovering that their vessel has an uncanceled TIP.  If a vessel is found in Mexico without their ‘Golden Ticket’. The vessel can be impounded immediately.  Only fees, paperwork and stress build in this scenario.

The Mexican Government has been upgrading and computerizing their TIP database that catalogs what vessels have TIPS.  There are a variety of complications that have arisen from computerizing TIPs.  In the process of creating a formal and universal database some vessels came up as having more than one TIP issued to it.  Some vessels that had a TIP and left did so without cancelling their TIP.
Most recently new complications have arisen for TIPs issued before 2005 through the Mexican government agency called Aduana. This branch of the government has since been disbanded in the past few years.  In turn, last year all TIPS issued and uncanceled through Aduana prior to 2005 were completely frozen. These TIPs could not be cancelled or re-issued. These are the vessels who were forced to completely change their plans.  As of THIS WEEK, vessels with TIPS that fall into this category HAVE NEW HOPE!
The details of this recent turn of events can be found here in an article just released October 18th, 2024 in which a couple went to Ensenada with the sole intention to cancel two pre-2005 TIPs.  Their success is offering a beacon of hope and potentially a path forward for Mexican authorities to assist vessels seeking cruising clearance into Mexico this season.
Ideally vessels with TIPs issued before 2005 will now fall into yet a new category: vessels with TIP complications that are challenging AND solvable.  Like most places sometimes a little more paperwork and fees goes a long way!  Fortunately, there are people and companies that specialize in assisting people with their TIPs. That said, If a boat owner choses to use a representative to help obtain or cancel a TIP it is very important to be certain that others before you have used their services successfully.  Last year there was an issue in Mexico's Northwesternmost port, Ensenada, whereby someone was accepting money for the service of obtaining TIPs for vessels. These vessels cruised Mexico only to discover upon exiting the country that their TIPs were not valid. In fact, they were fake and had never been properly issued. This created huge problems. The Ocean Posse has a vetted company that helps with TIP challenges.
NOTE: The majority of boats do not have TIP issues but those that do have long convoluted yarns.  
For all vessels and crew entering and exiting Mexico from the north or the south know that the system of entry and exit is improving and one can get the process rolling on the new online system available.  The online system has not replaced office visits, inspections, or the issuance of official papers with even more official stamps.  Be very sure to keep all stamped paperwork and receipts from the Entry and Exit Processes.  The same actually holds true when flying or driving in or out of Mexico: keep entry and exit receipts and paperwork.  Entry Papers are required upon exiting Mexico and, most of the time, the subsequent country of entry requires the exit papers from the last country visited.  Follow the procedures properly and clearance will ideally be smooth and easy.

by EDITOR

POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS

POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS

☎️ Free Weekly live calls on Mondays via dedicated LINE.me group

The Ocean Posse has weekly, live, in-season calls dedicated to five different regions where posse members are cruising:

  1. The Pacific Americas Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  2. The Caribbean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  3. The Atlantic Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  4. The Mediterranean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
  5. The South Pacific Route (In process now ending November 4th)
an example of in season Line call schedule

During the Weekly calls members join in to:

  1. Share any emergency or emergency relay needed
  2. update one another on location, any issues they may be having, or fun stuff they are doing
  3. Receive weather report from Captain Dietmar
  4. Questions people have for one another.

This weekly communication is a a little bit like a net and fulfills all the same functions.

by EDITOR

OCEAN POSSE REPRESENTS AT ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW 2024

OCEAN POSSE REPRESENTS AT ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW 2024

Vessel 200 signed up at the Annapolis Boat Show this week!

by EDITOR

SAILING NOTES FROM THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR OCEAN VOYAGERS

Sailing Notes from the South Pacific for Ocean Voyagers

Geologically young and dramatically, steep, mountainous Marquesan islands jut skyward out of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Tikis and coconut palms look out to sea.
The Ocean Posse is working to bring three posses together: the Atlantic posse, the Panama posse and the Pacific Posse so that we will have better overlap to share information and benefits across the oceans that we sail.  Some have crossed oceans that others are considering crossing.  Here, I will share notes from the South Pacific for people considering sailing to the South Pacific, or for those that just want to vicariously enjoy the cerulean blues, coconut palms, island communities spread throughout the South Pacific.
Presently, SV WHILRWND is underway in the Tuamotus, the second of five island groups in French Polynesian that we have visited since making landfall from Panama in May 2024. The Tuamotus, are sometimes referred to as ‘the dangerous islands’ for all the low lying fringing coral reefs boats can and have run aground on which require careful navigation.  So far, with a person on bow watch, the charts on Navionics, and multiple satellite overlays in OPEN CPN navigating the Tuamotus has been very fun.  There is a timing element one must consider when entering and exiting the atolls, between atolls we are sailing in the open ocean with ocean swell instantly, and within the atolls we are sailing in lagoons with little to no waves navigating coral bommies looking for a calm spot in the sand to drop our anchor.
So many different shades of blue in the Tuamotus atoll lagoons.
Slivers of fringing reef encircle blue lagoons studded with coral heads called "bommies"
Over the past two months, We have had the good fortune to see an abundance of coral and undersea life, more blue hues than I knew existed, and a few of the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales that come annually to the oceanic islands of the South Pacific to breed and calf.  According to a cruising marine biologist friend the Southern Hemisphere Humpback whales will be turning back towards their summer feeding grounds off Antarctica in the next few weeks. There is a singular raised atoll in the NW part of the Tuamotus called Makatea where, in settled conditions, one can anchor outside the atoll on the leeward side and possibly see whales this time of year.  Looking at the weather with this possibility in mind we saw a sweet weather window that looked perfect for an adventure: two days of downwind sailing from Fakarava to Makatea in time for the wind to die off for three calm days anchored in the lee of the island, followed by wind from the south to carry us north to Tikihau where there is a manta ray feeding station, and on Rangiroa the second larges atoll in the world.  We have friends coming in on October 11th and as all cruisers know this hard stop commitment presents an added element into every sailing schedule.  Guests visiting the Tuamotus fly into Tahiti and then take an inner island flight to the Tuamotus. Interestingly, many atolls have airports: Fakarava and Rangiroa being the two largest atolls have airports that are more frequented than others. So, (Option 1) we could stay in and around Fakarava until our guests come (very relaxing) or (Option 2) we could go on a little atoll tour and make our way to Rangiroa to meet them (an adventure). We decided that the weather window looked good for an adventure and the plan was sound.
Our 'plan' was to sail from Fakarava for two days, spend a few days on the leeward side of Makatea, then sail to Tikihau for a few days and around to Rangiroa to pick up our friends.
Downwind sailing with the mainsail, mizzen, and spinnaker
We weighed anchor in time to catch the high water slack and sail through the exit in the southern pass.  After exiting the atoll, one is in the ocean immediately and we noted a long slow 1m southerly swell. The conditions were great and we set our kite for a smooth downwind sail.  A few hours in our buddies received an email from a French weather service sending out an alert to all mariners of a significant southern swell developing and moving north into the Tuamotus. We pulled up the weather and, sure enough, although the wind was still forecast to be settled in a few days around Makatea the swell was going to be too big to comfortably anchor on the outside of the atoll much less enter through the pass of an atoll.  We decided to reroute to Tikihau and save Makatea for another time.
There is a 'plan' and then there is the reality that unfolds when new information comes to light, conditions change, and the route must change as well.
We arrived outside Tikihau in the night, hove to outside the entrance, and waited for the low slack at first light. Upon arriving in Tikihau the weather forecast changed multiple times over the course of the day. In the southern hemisphere winter has just turned to spring and now this northern hemisphere sailor can say the spring weather down here is as fickle as one might expect in the spring: changing so often it’s hard to hang you hat on much beyond the immediate conditions. There are significant blows coming in and out of the forecast and still a large swell coming with mixed forecasts on how long it will affect this part of the Tuamotus. Based on these changing forecasts and the expected conditions in the passes when the swell arrives we have now determined that today, seems to be the best day in the next ten (when our friends are to arrive) to make our way from Tikihau to Rangiroa, so we are underway once more.
No matter the ocean, the weather calls the shots.  So far, sailing in the South Pacific has been nothing short of a dynamic adventure demanding that we constantly keep an eye on the weather and a sharp lookout over the bow.  While on lookout this morning we saw manta rays entering the Pass into Tihihau and dolphins surfing our bow as we set out into the ocean to Rangiroa...and we still could see a whale.
Sailing to Rangiroa: the second largest atoll in the world.
For cruisers looking to the South Pacific for adventure; crossing the ocean to get here is an epic adventure in and of itself.  Most people set sail for the South Pacific from points west in the late winter/early spring.  Presently, many cruisers are beginning to rub their palms together, eyeing up routes and weather patterns, running through their inventory of parts and spares, making lists, reading about storm tactics and high sea debacles, and/or taking care of a host or pre-departure maintenance or upgrades.  Shaking down our fears can also be a big part of mentally preparing for a ocean voyage.  Some, like my friend, may be wondering, "What were your scariest moments on the passage (to French Polynesia)?"
Taking a panoramic shot aboard SV WHIRLWIND out at sea while rocking and rolling.  Fear can feel like this: exaggerated and out of control.
In jest, my husband and our captain said, "the day we realized we didn't bring enough rum."  That was more sad really, but nothing we can't get over.
More sincerely, he said, "The day the autohelm and went a little wacky and (he) had visions of the rudder breaking loose."  Terrifying!  Indeed, one of our worst nightmares.  That 'wackiness' was rectified at sea with no major drama.  And we installed a back up autohelm before leaving Panama Bay.
In my most sincere and more lengthy response, I shared:  We spent 30 days at sea: they were both utterly glorious and unexpectedly difficult at times. A huge realization for me was that the infamous Coconut Milk Run starts west of French Polynesia….or maybe in French Polynesia…or maybe to the east...it’s the Eden out there somewhere, the Fair Winds and the Following Seas of every sailors dreams.  As we set out to cross the Pacific we actually thought we were on the Coconut Milk Run from Panama to the Marquesas.  So when we got out there and spent far longer in confused seas than we ever imagined could be part of a 'Coconut Milk Run' we joked, desperately at times while tossing chaotically in a confusion of seas and open sky, saying “this is coconut milk!? I imagined something sweet and smooth not a frothy mess" Or, "If this is coconut milk, I’ll stick to beer (or rum)!” Crossing the ocean can easily be romanticized…in my experience it is with the adventure ahead of me or behind me that I can romanticize really well about it.  When I am in it, it is usually....well...a Whirlwind of calm joy, uncertainty, chaos, thrill, or somehwere in between.
In preparation, I tried hard to be realistic, to plan for the worst and hope for the best, to be ready for the voyage and not simply long for the destination, to pack the boat full of provisions and spares, to check everything twice sometime thrice.  While the dream to cross the Pacific was years in the making for us and I had years to consider the magnitude of this voyage, still he scariest moment for me was somewhere SW of the Galapagos when I realized how far offshore we were, how much further we had to go, and that there would be no real rest until we were in French Polynesia.  It was nighttime and I woke out of a sleep to my husband, Mike, and our 13 year old son, Russell, reefing the main in sloppy seas and having a heck of a time.  I hopped up to help and the sky was SO big and SO black, spotted more stars than I had ever seen.  I could not immediately see Mike or Russell but somehow the wavetops were illuminated, so swift and heaving.  I was struck with a desperate feeling knowing there was no turning back, still so far to go, and only us to make that happen.  In that moment reefing the main felt goliath, possibly insurmountable, and I had to have a serious talk with myself!  I had to take the task at hand for just the task at hand, not the hundreds of miles we had come or the thousands of miles to go.  I had to just focus and reef the main.  'Stay calm.  Stay Steady.  We got this,' I reminded myself.  Finally, we prevailed.  For whatever reasons, reefing was more than difficult that night and with some mighty cursing and some steady determination we did it.  And then we just moved right along.  The boat settled nicely due to the reef, mind you the seas did not miraculously settle, but the motion certainly improved.  The boys went back on watch, and I to easily slipped back into bed.  For whatever reason, that was my scariest moment.  Basically, when the breadth of what we had set out to do actually hit me like it never quite had before - we were in the middle of the ocean and I felt like an absolute imbecile for only then realizing what I had gotten myself and my family into?!  I thought I had thought it through but in that moment I did not think I had.  I felt enormously overwhelmed by how easily we could get swallowed up.  I also felt that there was no turning back.  (Now in hindsight I know that is not entirely true, but it was certainly how I felt and continuing west was certainly the best option.)  Still, I felt I was stuck and incomprehensibly vulnerable which was truly scary.  The other side of these completely humbling feelings was how absolutely beautiful the stars, the ocean, and the sky were.  Steering away from the overwhelm of fear I definitely made a point to take comfort in the grandeur and holdfast.  It is wild when terrifying can also be infinitely impressive.  There is no doubt the ocean is mighty!  The colors and the expansiveness are nothing short of awe-inspiring making the trials of the adventures worth it....especially when I am on the other side of that particular part of this adventure and can romanticize all about it.
Romantic and Real: Tuamotu sunset.
Lagoon sailing can be exceptionally pleasant.

SY WHIRLWIND 🇺🇸 Maurisa, Mike, Russell & Josea – Alajuela 48’

WHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWINDWHIRLWIND

by EDITOR

EXPANDING POSSE PERKS: YACHT PORT CARTAGENA, SPAIN💰 Save real money at Marinas with discounts

ANNOUNCING: NEW MARINAS SIGNING ON WITH THE OCEAN POSSE

EXPANDING POSSE PERK:💰 Save real money at Marinas with discounts

Ocean Posse's new cruiser friendly and liveaboard friendly sponsorship marina in Cartagena Spain 🇪🇸
Dietmar tending bar. Thanks Flor de Cana! The 12 year old rum was a hit!!!

SV QUESO GRANDE II and Captain Dietmar kicked off the first Ocean Posse event in Yacht Port Cartagena, Spain!

Dietmar says: Thank you Sherri for all the event support and promotion to the international cruisers who came! AND THANK YOU LANCE FOR SOME SUCCULENT RIBS !!!

Sherri from SV QUESO GRANDE II says: Great fun, great cruisers, and great grilled meat by my darling husband Lance.  

Thank you for securing the Cartagena, Spain marina. We loved it so much, SV PATHFINDER

Currently, the Ocean Posse has ????some number of marinas in ????some number of countries bla bla bla.  This represents great savings bla bla bla

 

by EDITOR

TRIP REPORT: COLUMBIA INLAND

TRIP REPORT: COLUMBIA INLAND

WITH MV NEXT CHAPTER

MV NEXT CHAPTER sailed from Shelter Bay Marina in August to Cartagena, Colombia.  They explored the city and then travelled inland off the boat.  Their photos and enthusiastic report of their time so far in Colombia follows:

After leaving Panama it is time to raise the Colombian flag

Colombia exceeded our expectations in every way! We weren’t 100% sure what to expect but what we found was incredible people, safe walkable cities, delicious food and affordable prices for work and goods.

Cartagena, Colombia
That's Right.
Fruit Vendor on the street in Cartagena, Colombia
Taking a horse drawn carriage ride through the narrow streets of Cartagena, Colombia.

We stayed at Club de Pesca (they are a posse sponsor and a great marina) if you message their WhatsApp, Maricela Speaks great English and can help with your reservations) book very early as their marina is small and space fills up quickly.

Also at Club de Pesca is phenomenal workers! We had our bright work completely redone, some small fiberglass repairs, a wash and wax. Javier and his team were the best we have ever worked with! If you are stopping there and want his contact info I would be happy to pass it along

We also took side trips (it’s super affordable to fly within Colombia) to Medellín and Bogota. Both cities were incredible, rich culture so much to see and do!

Checking into the city/country was also pretty easy- Jose our agent was $300 and handled all of our paperwork and brought the officials to our boat, applied for our cruising permit and TIP.  You have to check into and out of every major port in Colombia but it’s pretty quick and easy.

Tram in Medellín, Colombia
Palace of Culture in Medellín, Colombia
Shawna and Lexi loving Colombia.
Fernando Botero's Woman on a Bull in Medellin.

Hope this helps other boaters feel comfortable stopping into Colombia! It’s in my opinion and must see country.

Presently, MV NEXT CHAPTER is underway to Santa Marta, Columbia.

MY NEXT CHAPTER 🇺🇸 Chris & Shawna & crew - Selene 59′

  Fair winds MV NEXT CHAPTER, thank you for sharing your inland adventures!

 SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES  
is the heart and soul of the Ocean Posse 

Please share pictures of your adventures, your award entries, your breathtaking sunsets, and picturesque anchorages on our group communications platform for others to enjoy in real time and/or email Maurisa at editor@oceanposse.com to share in the upcoming newsletter.  Maurisa is a sailor among us.  She is part of the Ocean Posse crew and enjoys writing fun and helpful updates to the Ocean Posse.

by EDITOR

SUN POWERED YACHTS SPONSORS THE OCEAN POSSE

☀️ SUN POWERED YACHTS ☀️  

⛵SPONSORS THE OCEAN POSSE⛵

We are exited and pleased to sponsor the Panama Posse with a special

10% discount off SunPower solar panel bundles.

Just use promocode PANAMAPOSSE at checkout www.sunpoweredyachts.com/shop and start enjoying clean & quiet solar aboard your boat.

 

We also offer free consultations so please email or call and let us help you go solar today.

PRODUCTS

  • SUNPOWER
  • VICTRON
  • MAXEON
  • AERL
  • CABLES CONNECTORS SLEEVES
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Sun Powered Yachts

W: sunpoweredyachts.com

 

T: +1 808 825 2670

 

E:  lyall@sunpoweredyachts.com

E: katie@sunpoweredyachts.com

 

Lyall is from the UK and has travelled to 50 countries backpacking and sailing.  With a background in Hospitality and Event Management he found sailing in 2004 has logged over 55,000 miles and qualified as an RYA Yachtmaster Ocean.

 

Katie is from Maine and has been working in the solar industry in Hawaii for over a decade, most recently for Sunspear Energy.  Her knowledge of solar products and system design will be an asset to your yacht’s system.

Based on our time and experience sailing, on short trips and living at sea, we have created a Power Usage Chart below.  You can see more details on what each system could power on your weekend or live aboard sailing adventure.  Create your own power usage table and see what your power needs are aboard your own yacht then choose the number of solar panels accordingly
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by EDITOR

SV REMEDY DOUBLES BACK OVERLAND TO NICARAGUA

SV REMEDY DOUBLES BACK OVERLAND TO NICARAGUA

WARNING: Do not read while hungry or thirsty (for Rum or Adventure)

Nicaraguan street food at its best. In a banana leaf they place yucca, Chicharrón, topped with a pickled cabbage salad that is sour. We were told Nicaraguans love sour foods so the pickled cabbage is the perfect touch to this dish.

Karl and Natalie Leibensperger, from SV REMEDY, are currently exploring Nicaragua overland from Costa Rica and shares some details and highlights of their experiences along the way:

Due to time constraints we were not able to visit the Port of Puesta Del Sol in Northern Nicaragua but instead headed directly to Costa Rica. While staying in Marina Papagayo we planned a 10 day trip to Nicaragua with Va Pues Travel. The company organizes custom private tours of Nicaragua. Our trip started with a transfer from Liberia to Peñas Blancas. There are several transfer companies and the prices range from $85 to $120 each way. We used Best Ride Costa Rica, +506 8629 0242 with a rate of $85 each way. The transfer takes about 90 minutes.  It is a pretty interesting drive north to the border. The craziest thing is that there is 9km of backed up semi trucks that wait days to get into Nicaragua. We drove most of the 9km on the wrong side of the road swerving in and out of traffic. It made for an eventful ride.

Once at the border the Costa Rican immigration office is within a few steps of where your transfer is able to drive.  Our English speaking border agent took our passports, instructed us to pay our exit taxes at a bank machine ($8 US PP) and then once paid he stamped our passports and sent us on our way towards Nicaragua. There is a marked walkway to the border and the entire walk is about 300 meters. Before getting to the Nicaraguan immigration office you must show your passport to an official at a check point. They are looking for your exit stamp from Costa Rica. The Nicaragua immigration office is a huge blue and white building, really impossible to miss. You will need $1 US PP cash to get in the door. Once inside, the immigration official will need your passport, your hotel name, and your profession. The cost is $13 US PP in cash. They will give you two official papers that are needed to exit the country. Once this is completed all luggage is placed through an X-ray machine and then you are on your way. Welcome to Nicaragua!

We had a tour guide waiting for us but there is an Enterprise Car Rental at the Nicaraguan border. I'll add that there is also one on the Costa Rican Border also.  Our first stop was Rivas, here we caught a very crowded transport ferry to Ometepe Island.

The beautiful Isla Ometepe inside Lake Nicaragua, Central America's largest freshwater lake. Petroglyphs are found throughout Ometepe Island. The Island has two volcanos and less than 30,000 people.
The Island protects this side of Lake Nicaragua therefore the winds are not a huge issue when using the ferry. We spent two nights on Ometepe Island. If you love hiking this is the place to visit. There are volcano hikes, zip lining, rock repelling and much more. As Karl had recently had foot surgery, our trip was not adrenalin filled but still very interesting and fun. We visited the island's private archaeological museum with pre-Columbian artifacts, the historical coffee hacienda Finca Magdalena, which was constructed in 1888, and we opted to do a cooking class with a local family. The cooking class was a wonderful highlight to our trip.
Tamales are a dish made for Nicaraguan celebrations such as Christmas and Birthdays. We had the pleasure of spending time with a local family, Antonio and Rosa who showed us how to make their tamales.
If you visit Ometepe Island I encourage you to stay at Finca San Juan de la Isla which is located lakeside at Santo Domingo Beach. We stayed in a lakeside bungalow which is a must if you choose this hotel as the sounds of the constantly lapping fresh water waves are magical.

After the return ferry ride back to Rivas we moved on to the Capital City of Granada. We stayed at the  Hotel Plaza Colon, which is a beautifully refurbished colonial house overlooking Granada's Central Park. Bring your bathing suit to cool off in their wonderful center court pool.

On the drive to Granada we stopped in Catarina for a ceramic pottery factory tour. The indigenous population has handed down this artwork to the current generation and it is their main livelihood in this area. The pottery in some of the shops is very detailed and exquisite. We did buy several pieces for our home in Florida.

The big body of water is Apoyo Lagoon but if you look into the
distance is Lake Nicaragua. The picture was taken from the city of
Catarina, which is famous for their handmade pottery. The pottery is
absolutely beautiful. We purchased quite a few pieces that will be
shipped to the US.
This is an example of the pottery made in the town of Catarina.

Granada is a Colonial City with a rich history. If you visit Granada I highly recommend having a city tour, as without a guide I would not have learned as much of her History. Since it was so hot we cheated on our walk and hired a horse and carriage for $20. I told Karl it was the best $20 I've spent in a long time. An interesting stop was at a tile factory that has been in business since 1905. They make all of the colorful tile around the city, both in buildings and on the sidewalks. They were kind enough to show us their tile making process during our impromptu stop.

This tile factory was opened in 1905 and has been handed down to each subsequent generation. Now the 4th.
A trip would not be complete without a visit to a local cigar factory. Dona Elba Cigars is a cigar factory in Granada providing tours. They even gift each person with a cigar that you can try while you are there. The building is beautiful and has a great breeze to cool off from the Nicaraguan sun.

Two suggestions. 

One is to eat at NM Culinary Granada. The food was amazing!
And the second is to buy a half bottle or maybe full bottle of Flor de Caña from the bar at Hotel Plaza Colon and smoke your cigar, that you were gifted from the Doña Elba Cigar Factory, while sitting on the patio in front of Granada's central park. You won't be disappointed.

After two nights in Granada our trip led us to Estili. It is the location of most of the cigar factories in Nicaragua. Karl's goal was to visit the Padron Cigar Factory but to his disappointment they are extremely private and do not have tours. In fact, they do not sell their cigars in Nicaragua. They are all exported. (So, we found a) cigar factory tour in Estili and (found) some good quality cigars to bring back with us.

(We had) an amazing tour of AJ Fernandez Cigar Factory. Mario was our English speaking guide. After working for AJ Fernandez for 7 years, he has learned and is able to explain the cigar process in detail. His background is that he has an Agriculture Degree, so he can answer specific questions about the process that I don't think you would get in other locations. It takes about 5 years and 300 hands to produce one cigar. The facility is enormous and the process is just as complicated as making wine or whiskey. He used those analogies throughout the tour. I was not aware of the detail that goes into each batch of cigars. The tour lasted about an hour and I would rate this as one of our top factory tours. Technically, purchasing cigars is not possible, but in Nicaragua everything is possible. Estili is a bit out of the tourist zone but completely worth the stop.

They have over 1 million cigars in this one room.
The tobacco is monitored for 1-3 years during the tobacco's fermentation process.

This is just one of the rooms that processes the tobacco. This is sorting room for the tobacco that becomes the wrapper.

As of this publication, Karl and Natalie are continuing north to Leon, Nicaragua.   Karl and Natalie finish by sharing:

As Posse members we are making our way to Flor de Caña hoping to purchase some well aged rum.  (Excellent idea!!)

Southern and middle Nicaragua have been beautiful and I am thankful we are able to spend 10 days touring this wonderful country.

SV REMEDY 🇺🇸 Karl & Natalie Leibensperger - 2019 Leopard 45

THANK YOU SV REMEDY FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURE ALONG THE WAY!

Ocean Posse Members, please share your stories by sending them to editor@oceanposse.com.

Maurisa, the editor, is always happy to receive your stories and share them out.  Together we can inspire one another!

by EDITOR