Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest: Hazards and Resources
Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest:
Hazards and Resources
By Rob and Debra Murray from SV AVANTย as previously published in Currents Magazine
About the Hazards
As you set out on your sail to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest, there are numerous hazards you will encounter. For most, the only defense is a good watch.
Fishing Boats
Most vessels inshore are commercial fishing boats, and many do not use AIS, so other fishermen donโt know where they are fishing. At night, they usually light up like stadiums hosting a World Cup game and are easy to spot. They tend to congregate on offshore banks or directly offshore from ports on the coast. Some fishermen have begun using AIS beacons on fishing gear, which is a bonus.
Debris
Floating debris, especially logs, can be an issue, particularly during or immediately following heavy rains or large tides, and especially off of larger rivers or inlets.
Crab Pots
Crab pots are endemic. While there has been an effort to create a crab pot free zone down the coast, its observance is marginal and equipment drifts into the the lanes anyways. Theย consortium that manages the lanesย hasnโt met to update the agreement since 2017.ย Note that in areas subject to strong current, commercial crabbers will generally use two buoys, one to hold the line up and a second on a further 10 feet or so of line that will still be visible and retrievable, even when the first buoy has been pulled under by the current. Itโs easier to tangle a buoy in your prop if the current is slack and both buoys are lying idle on the surface.
Bars
Of course, everyone worries about the dreaded โbar crossingsโ that may be encountered. After all, they do call the Columbia Bar the โGraveyard of the Pacificโ, right? But if youโre crossing at a slack or flood in weather that isnโt horrible, none of the bar crossings are difficult. Inย Avantโs passage down the coast, we entered Astoria (the aforementioned โgraveyard of the Pacificโ), Coos Bay and Humboldt Bay/Eureka (widely considered the second worst bar crossing), and had no trouble at all. Our timing had us arriving at each bar on or near slack water, with a slight edge to the flood tide. Many mariners recommend using the last of the flood tide as the optimum time for a bar crossing, when the water is deepest. Waves at each entrance were under two feet, and the period was long, as predicted by the forecasts we sailed under. Charting was universally excellent.
Each harbour with a bar has a coast guard station that can offer advice, an up-to-the-minute bar report, and will even send out a cutter or other boat to guide you in if conditions warrant (we availed ourselves of this at Coos Bay when visibility dropped to under 200โ). If you get caught out by a closed bar, you just have to gut it out until the bar reopens, but with modern weather forecasts and a modicum of planning,
this is highly unlikely. (Note that the coast guard definition of a โsmall craftโ in bar closing advisories is a vessel under 65โ in length.)
Available Resources
The following resources can make this specific passage more pleasant and perhaps less challenging:
Weather Information
No doubt you have attended courses, read books, downloaded software, studied weather patterns, learned how to download a variety of GRIBs, receive weather faxes, decode 500mb charts, toss chicken bones and generally worked really hard to prepare for cruising by becoming your own expert weather forecaster. Well, on this trip, those skills can be used for entertainment value or simply allowed to rest. (Donโt worry, you will use those skills south of the USA/Mexico border).
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The NOAA forecasters are as good as it gets, and there are dedicated teams in each of Washington, Oregon and Northern California working around the clock to deliver the most accurate weather forecast possible. These forecasts are available via VHF on the usual WX channels to a considerable range offshore (usually at least 50 miles, often 100+). The forecast zones extend to 250 miles offshore in discrete steps, and the forecast zones are quite small. In addition to the forecast, each weather office provides a โdiscussionโ, which underscores the reasons for the forecast offered, how the models informed (or did not inform) the forecasts, whatโs likely to follow the forecast period, and any other juicy tidbits the forecaster(s) think might be interesting. You can find the discussion by going to the forecasting officeโs webpage and looking for the โdiscussionโ button.
If you want to โplay alongโ with the forecaster, you can download the GRIBs (GFS and NDFD editions) and see if you get the same conclusions.
Live and near live weather observations are also available from the national weather service by finding the โobservationsโ button on the left side of the forecast page. These vary in frequency from every few hours to live, depending on location and observation station type. There are dozens of these between Neah Bay and San Francisco.
Enjoy the weather forecasts. They end at the Mexico USA border and it becomes far more basic there.
Wave Patterns
Waves offshore contribute substantially to the (dis)comfort the crew experience on the passage. Aboardย Avant, we have found waves change character at depths of about 60m/200โ. When the depths we sail in are under 60m, the waves seem to have a different character, a more insistent vertical component, than they do in greater depths. We always aim to be in depths greater than 60m/200โ whenever possible. When closing the coast, expect waves to โfeelโ stronger, even if they are not visibly any bigger. Also when closing the coast, watch for secondary wave trains from reflections off shorelines where the shores are steep to, or a change in wave direction where a wave train may wrap a point or headland. And there are also outliersย such as this one.
Generally, wave height has very little to do with discomfort aboard; it is the ratio of wave height to period that creates difficulty. When waves are โsquareโ (wave height in feet = wave period in seconds), no one will have any fun aboard, whether the waves are 3โ or 8โ high. We choose not to sail in square waves. When the period extends to 1.5x the wave height, conditions become much more tolerable. When the period is 2x or greater wave height, the gentle rise and fall is barely noticeable after a while.
When traveling with the wave train, the apparent period will be longer, and when traveling against the wave train the apparent period will be shorter. Take this into account when evaluating wave predictions.
Guidebooks
The NOAA Coast Pilot 7 is aย free downloadย and covers the coast from Neah Bay to the Mexican border. You will want to read chapter three, and use chapters seven to thirteen in reverse order as you transit south. This volume, over 700 pages, is a comprehensive mariners guide to the coast, its character, and its hazards. It is updated weekly, so make sure you have the latest edition downloaded.
There are commercial cruising guides available for the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, but we found they added little to what the Coast Pilot provided for free.
The USCG has produced aย general bar crossing guideย with lots of relevant information. Individual bar crossing guides are available as well, and some can be found onย this list. The following bar crossing guides (in pdf format) provide specific information about hazards for each bar crossing:
- Quillayute Bar Hazards
- Grays Harbour Bar Hazards
- Rogue River Bar Hazards
- Tillamook Bay Bar Hazards
- Yaquina Bay Bar Hazards
- Umpqua River Bar Hazards
- Depoe Bay Bar Hazards
- Columbia River Bar Hazards
- Coquille River Bar Hazards
- Chetco Bar Hazards
US Coast Guard
The US Coast Guard is a highly professional military search and rescue operation, and operates multiple stations up and down the coast. From late May through Labor Day, they also operate a number of seasonal stations, some located on the jetties surrounding bar crossings. They can be reached by VHF or by telephone (numbers are in the Coast Pilot, or on their website. Note them down before you go). Their VHF coverage is typically at least 25-50 miles offshore, and we found cell coverage was passable at 8-10 miles offshore and excellent at 5. It is ALWAYS worth calling by VHF or cell phone to get a bar forecast before committing to crossing any bar on the coast.
Charts
NOAA charts (both raster and vector) are free downloads and can be used in navigation programs like OpenCPN. They are frequently updated, and OpenCPN has a chart downloader that will automatically update your electronic charts directly from NOAA. Proprietary e-chart sets like C-Map or Navionics are also updated, but not as frequently. Like milk, bread and beer, charts are best fresh, so do use the free resources to ensure you have the most up to date information aboard. Paper charts for backup can be purchased individually, or you can get a โchart bookโ that covers large sections of the coast. We elected to do the latter, buying two MAPTECH Chartbooks that covered the coast from the Canadian border to the Mexican border.
SYย AVANTย ๐จ๐ฆ Rob & Debra โย Beneteau 43.5
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EXPLORING INLAND TO BELGIUM
AFTER CROSSING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN
SV QUESO GRANDE II GOES INLAND TO BELGIUM
SVย QUESO GRANDE II ๐บ๐ธ Lance & Sherri –ย Seawind 1260 41′
Looks like your sea legs are taking you far; Thanks for sharing!
: The Venice of the North
Nestled in the northwest of Belgium, Bruges is a city that seems to have been plucked straight out of a fairy tale. With its picturesque canals, medieval architecture, and cobbled streets, it is no wonder that Bruges is often referred to as the “Venice of the North.” This enchanting city has preserved its medieval charm, making it one of Europe’s most beloved destinations.
A Historical Tapestry
Bruges’ history dates back to the 9th century when it was founded by the Vikings. By the 12th century, Bruges had become a bustling trading hub, thanks to its strategic location and access to the North Sea. The city’s prosperity peaked in the 14th century when it was one of the leading cities of the Hanseatic League, a powerful commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe.
The wealth generated by trade is still evident today in Bruges’ stunning architecture. The city is a treasure trove of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings, many of which have been meticulously preserved. The Belfry of Bruges, a medieval bell tower in the city’s heart, is one of its most iconic landmarks. Climbing the 366 steps to the top offers panoramic views of the city and is well worth the effort.
The Canals of Bruges
Bruges is famous for its network of canals, which wind their way through the city and have earned it the nickname “Venice of the North.” These waterways were once vital for trade, allowing goods to be transported easily throughout the city. Today, they provide a scenic way to explore Bruges. A boat tour along the canals offers a unique perspective of the city’s stunning architecture and charming bridges.
Art and Culture
Art lovers will find plenty to admire in Bruges. The city is home to several world-class museums, including the Groeningemuseum, which houses an impressive collection of Flemish Primitive art. Works by masters such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling can be found here, offering a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of the region.
In addition to its museums, Bruges is famous for its lace-making tradition. Lace has been made in Bruges for centuries, and visitors can learn about this delicate craft at the Lace Center, where demonstrations are held regularly.
Culinary Delights
No visit to Bruges would be complete without indulging in its culinary offerings. Belgian chocolate is renowned worldwide, and Bruges is home to some of the country’s best chocolatiers. A stroll through the city’s streets will reveal numerous chocolate shops, each offering a tempting array of pralines, truffles, and other sweet treats.
Bruges is also a great place to sample traditional Belgian cuisine. Mussels and fries, known as “moules-frites,” are a must-try dish, as is the hearty Flemish beef stew, “carbonade flamande.” Of course, no meal in Belgium is complete without a glass of locally brewed beer. Bruges has several breweries, each producing unique and flavorful beers that are sure to delight any connoisseur.
A Timeless Charm
What makes Bruges truly special is its ability to transport visitors back in time. The city’s medieval architecture, cobbled streets, and tranquil canals create an atmosphere that is both romantic and timeless. Whether you’re exploring the historic Markt square, visiting the Basilica of the Holy Blood, or simply enjoying a leisurely boat ride, Bruges offers an experience unlike any other.
Bruges is more than just a city; it is a journey through history, art, and culture. Its charm lies in its ability to blend the old with the new, offering visitors a glimpse into the past while still being a vibrant and lively place to explore. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a romantic getaway, Bruges has something to offer everyone.
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ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA'S ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
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SVย VIVAย is in French Polynesia in the South Pacific.ย Their recent report shares a few different ways to explore the islands of Moorea and Tahiti:
We rented a scooter and toured the island of Moorea yesterday and did a 9-mile hike up to Belvedere and back on the 3-cocotier trail a few days ago...found many amazing views. Today, we took the ferry across to Tahiti at 7 am, rented a scooter and toured the whole island with several beautiful stops along the way.ย We sprinkled this tour with some provisioning that we could fit in backpacks and boxes on our rented scooter.
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VIVASweet bike lane!
SV VIVA Pierre & Marie -ย Amel 52'
Adventurous and Practical!ย Thank you for sharingย VIVA!
FLEET UPDATE 2024-08-25
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FLEET UPDATE 2024-08-18
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WHEN THE HALYARD SKIES OFFSHORE...WHAT DO YOU DO?
WHEN THE HALYARD SKIES OFFSHORE...WHAT DO YOU DO?
On every passage there are sail changes and shifts that go smoothly or even better than expected...and then there are the surprises.ย Some surprises are more or less demanding than others.ย Our most recent surprise underway gave Captain Mike the opportunity to go up the mast in the middle of the ocean under clear blue skies over gentle 2 meter seas.
His thought was, "I'd rather see what it's like now under these conditions in case I have to consider going up the mast in anything else."ย ย
Here's what happened:
Last week, we sailed from the Marquesas to the Tuamotus.ย Conditions were excellent; we decided to go dead downwind and fly our Main and Jib wing and wing.ย We poled out the jib, adjusted our course, set the main, and put a preventer on it.ย The boat felt rock solid sliding down waves and sailing at 9-10 knots.
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The wind slacked, we shook out the reef and sailed for maybe 5 more minutes before we heard a "floosh"ย sound and SURPRISE our mainsail lay a limp pile on the boom.
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After minimal discussion, Mike went up the mast to retrieve the halyard.ย He used his ascenders on one of our spinnaker halyards and we backed it up with our second headsail halyard.ย At the second spreaders we swapped and he was raised the rest of the way on the headsail halyard and the spinnaker halyard was his backup.ย Now with all these halyards, where is the backup main halyard?ย THAT and a backup mizzen halyard are now on our list.ย Had we had a backup main halyard we could have waited to ascend the mast on anchor instead of underway.ย Hindsight is indeed 20:20!
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Once down with the skied halyard, we found that the shackle had opened, the main twisted out, and bent the shackle arms open.ย We fixed that, reattached the halyard to the sail, raised the main.
Mike's Take-away:
"It was about what I expected.ย The hardest thing was staying on the mast.ย I would definitely not want to go up in anything more than that without more in place to make it easier...like maybe some mast steps or a better climbing set-up."
SVย WHIRLWIND Mike, Maurisa, Russell, & Josea -ย Alajuela 48
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES UNDERWAY
Send our editor your story to editor@oceanposse.com
FLEET UPDATE 2024-08-11
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MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE
MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE
Kevin & Carla
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From the moment Kevin and Carla departed Vancouver BC on May 31, 2019, their first โrealโ goal was to be in Barra de Navidad in time for the 2019 Panama Posse kickoff meeting at the end of November. That first five months and 4,000 + NM set the tone for the crew of SV Gargoyle, a 2011 Beneteau Oceanis 50. Kevin, Carla, along with their two cats, Sam and Dean, have been sailing proudly under a Posse banner of one flavor or another ever since.
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2020 highlights included being locked down in Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua with a number of other posse members. Once they were allowed to leave, Gargoyle beat upwind for nine days to the Galapagos to be one of the first yachts post-COVID to be allowed into these magical islands. After two months in paradise with the islands to themselves, it was time to head East for their first Panama Canal transit and a planned May 2021 Atlantic transit. Insert the Omnicom variant into the story and with Portugal telling them they wouldnโt be allowed into the Azores; they made a 180 degree turn back to Panama for canal transit number two. The decision was now to go the other way to the Med, via the Pacific!
Departing from Marina Papagayo in March 2022 with Dietmar wishing us fair winds from the dock, Gargoyle made a 30-day passage to Nuku Hiva, followed by a season cruising French Polynesia and Fiji. Spending cyclone season in New Zealand, they experienced not one but two cyclones. Leary of the Red Sea they decided to ship Gargoyle with Posse Partner Sevenstar Yacht Transport from Auckland to Cork Ireland in May 2023.
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After Gargoyle made her 3rd Panama Canal transit, albeit without her crew, what followed was a magical summer in Ireland and Scotland before a late summer run to Spain, Portugal and then the Med. A winter in Tunisia followed by this seasonโs cruising in Malta, Sicily, Italy, up to Venice, Greece and now where they sit anchored off Bodrum, Turkey. 24 countries, 40,000NM and yes, Sam and Dean are still rocking it with their human crew.
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Followย us on....
Instagramย ย https://www.instagram.com/sv_gargoyle/
Facebookย ย https://www.facebook.com/svgargoyle50
YouTubeย ย ย https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOihVJ744XS4CoB71HixcFw/
Kevin and Carla are always available as well for a call or email exchange with their fellow cruisers. sailinggargoyle@gmail.com
SVย GARGOYLE ๐จ๐ฆ Kevin & Carla - Beneteau Oceanis 50
THANK YOU KEVIN & CARLA FOR BEING A PART OF THE POSSE FOR SO MANY YEARS!
BOCAS DEL TORO BEACH CLEAN UP
BOCAS DEL TORO BEACH CLEAN UP
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Report from Maison de Sante:
We had a nice group of Posse boats and local residents here in Bocas Del Toro, Panama who came out this morning for clean up on Red Frog beach. Many pounds of plastic garbage was collected ๐. The strangest items collected included a bicycle mud flap, a scuba purge valve, and a diaper๐คข. Some people had to leave early so not everyone is pictured. Stay tuned for a future date where we can ALL participate in beach clean up wherever you are located!
SY BISOU ๐ฆ๐บ Robin and Tad - Fountaine Pajot 44โฒ & SY MAISON DE SANTร ๐บ๐ธ Nicole & Keenan - ย Cal 46'
THANK YOU FOR BEING STEWARDS OF OUR ENVIRONMENT!
MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI
MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJIย 
THE ORIGINAL GUNKHOLES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC
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Levuka is a town on the eastern coast of the Fijian Island of Ovalau.ย Up until 1877, it was the capital of Fiji.ย Currently, this strangely haunted town has a population of about 5,000.ย It is the economic hub of the largest of 24 settlements on the Island.ย Levuka was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2013, in recognition of the port town's exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific Ocean.
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The modern town of Levuka was founded around 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands.ย Levuka quickly became an important port and trading post in the Pacific.ย A disparate band of settlers made up Levuka's population- traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, vagabonds, and even respectable businessmen.ย Much of Levukaโs unique heritage is in its wooden architecture (highly vulnerable to fire).
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The South Pacific's first Masonic Lodge was built in 1913 and housed the Freemasons that were established in Levuka by Alexander Barrack in 1875.ย There is much controversy about the Masonic fraternity in Fiji.ย The dominant traditional Christian faiths consider the Masons to be devil-worshippers.ย ย The Masonic Lodge was burned down in the 2000 Fiji coup d'etat.ย The Lodge contained priceless historical artifacts and records of Levuka's history dating back to 1875.ย The arsonists have yet to be identified and prosecuted.
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