FIJIAN CULTURE AND THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

FIJI: THE SEVUSEVU PROCESS

In traditional villages in Fiji Sevusevu is and has been the central component of all life-cycle rituals, social gatherings, healing ceremonies and community meetings.  Significant and ancient in Fiji, the “sevusevu” also marks the time and place for visitors to seek acceptance into a Fijian village.

In more formal settings, Sevusevu includes a complete performance where each male from the village has a specific role to play. Traditional attire is worn with pride, collected rain water is poured from bamboo shafts, pounded kava is strained through hibiscus bark and each bilo (drinking bowl from the half-shell of a coconut) is delivered deliberately and seriously in absolute silence (aside from the sound of deep ‘Cobo’ claps in acceptance and thanks of each ‘bilo’)

Every Sevusevu is not as formal as pictured above however there is a distinct and courteous process visitors must follow.  Further, understanding the significance of Sevusevu, respecting, and adhering to the tradition of this process helps to keep this aspect of Fijian Culture strong.

Longtime Ocean Posse member Chris on SV SEAGLUB has been living in Fiji for several years.   He shares the following about his experience with the Sevesevu:

In Fiji, when visiting smaller settlements, a visitor must seek out the village chief and present him with a small token or gift as a sign of respect and to ask permission to visit. This not only gives visitors permission to interact with the villagers but also to stay in the town and to visit any local scenery (such as beaches, waterfalls etc). Not doing so shows disrespect for their culture, but is also the equivalent of trespassing – for example pitching a tent in someone's backyard without permission.

‘Sevusevu’ is the name given to the actual gift or token that visitors present the chief with, most commonly a half-kilo bumdle of waka (kava root).  When arriving in the village, visitors should ask for the Turaga ni Koro (pronounced as too-ranga nee koro) or the village headman, as they usually have good English skills and will help with the translations. The headman will take visitors to the chief’s house for introduction. Remember no hats are to be worn once in the village and you should take your shoes off at the door before entering houses. Sitting cross legged on the floor, the kava root is then presented to the chief.

To ensure you are respectful of this important tradition, there are a few points of etiquette to follow. Firstly, everyone at the ceremony should dress in a sulu, which is a Fijian skirt regarded as their national dress. Women should also cover their shoulders. Men should sit cross-legged, ensuring that their sulu covers their knees, and women should sit with knees and feet together. Do not take photographs or videos throughout the ceremony, until the Turaga ni Koro lets you know that it’s okay to do so. Silence during the ceremony itself is crucial.

The ceremony itself is poignant. Afterwards you'll be welcomed as nothing less than family.

SV SEAGLUB 🇺🇸 Chris -Hylas 46'

 

Anchorage in Fulaga, Fiji

 


NAWI ISLAND POSSE PARTY WRAP UP

SOUTH PACIFIC POSSE PARTY WRAP UP

When the Posse throws a party there is rum, a pig roast, people come and have fun...

It's that simple and it happens every time.

Last weekend the Ocean Posse and Posse sponsor Nawi Island Marina hosted a party at Nawi Island Marina in Savusavu, Fiji. The South Pacific Islands are distinctly different and yet there are many similarities among the peoples ways of celebrating.  One such similarity is that celebratory feasting often involves the roasting (wither on a spit or more traditionally wrapped in banana leaves underground in a earthen pit) an entire animal....often a pig.  In Fiji, a traditional pig feast is called 'Lovo' (which refers to the earthen oven) and is often the meal that brings large groups of people together for celebrating births, funerals, marriages, welcoming or bidding farewell to visitors, and holidays such as Easter or Christmas.  Traditionally, women prepare the meat, men tend the earthen oven or fire, children play, and people are welcome to spend the time visiting and playing while the meal slowly cooks.  This method of gathering, cooking slowly, and feasting has been passed down from generation to generation as a living legacy of bonding the importance of relationships within a community.  Often other foods like seafoods, other meats, or vegetables are also cooked either in or near the earthen oven similarly wrapped in banana leaves to steam cook slowly.  The flavors become distinctly rich and flavorful.  When everything is unearthed or done cooking over coals, foods that were wrapped are unwrapped and are traditionally placed on banana leaves and presented buffet style accompanied by fresh squeezed coconut cream and other sauces.

SV WHIMSICAL IV shared their photos from the event:

Roast pig on a spit
Roast pig presented on banana leaves for the Feast.

Our Host: Nawi Island Marina
Traditional Dancing and Singing

Posse Members at the South Pacific Party in Nawi Island last week

SV WHIMSICAL IV 🇺🇸 Randy & Joanne - Catalina 470

The feast was wonderful.  There were about 80 people in attendance that enjoyed a night of good food, drinks, meeting new friends and deepening relationships.


FIJI REGATTA WEEK 2024

UPCOMING EVENT : FIJI REGATTA WEEK

 11-15 September, 2024

in beautiful Musket Cove

Annual Musket Cove Regatta.

Registration for the 2024 40th Anniversary Regatta is now open. Please book early! 

This link will take you to the Regatta Registration form.

Please note this form is for Regatta Registrations only. For all Marina Berth and Mooring bookings, please email Patrick directly at: mcyc@musketcovefiji.com. Please book early as there are limited Marina Berths available.

https://pacificposse.com/musket-cove-marina

MUSKET COVE MARINA 🇫🇯

SPONSORS THE PANAMA POSSE

We welcome any of the South Pacific Posse to Musket Cove at any time.

We’re pleased to offer a Free Berthing Day for 5 Paid Days to all of your Posse Members.

Wayne Deed

Director of Sales & Marketing

Musket Cove Island Resort & Marina

Malolo Lailai Island

Fiji Islands

m| +64 21 824266

P |  +679 666 2215

www.musketcovefiji.com


HISTORY OF BLACKBIRDING REMEMBERED

Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day

August 25, 2024

Blackbirding: A Dark Piece of History Remembered

Kanaka workers in a sugar cane plantation in Queensland, late 19th century.
Kanaka (or South Sea Islander) workers in a sugar cane plantation in Queensland, late 19th century.

Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day is significant as it recognizes the the arrival of the first South Sea Islanders to Queensland, Australia and a distinct cultural group that has become a part of the fabric of Australia's population and heritage.  The arrival of the first South Sea Islanders was part of the practice of "blackbirding", or slave-trading, that went on in the mid to late 1800s in the South Pacific.  Blackbirding refers to the recruitment, trickery, and outright stealing of people from their native lands forced to labor in distant lands.  Labor conditions and pay were notoriously poor to inhumane.

This period of South Pacific history tangles with American history here: the US Civil War was dragging on and dramatically impacting worldwide supplies of sugar and cotton.  Furthermore, as the US Civil War came to a close and it was apparent that the South would never be the same again, people from the Confederacy that had the means to escape found their way to the new places to practice their old ways: whether it be cash crops or slave trading.  In response, new areas of production were opening up in new parts of the world like Australia, Fiji, and Hawaii.  The new areas of production needed cheap laborers.  Pacific Islanders, primarily from 80 different islands in Melanesia and Polynesia, were blackbirded and forced to work on new sugar and cotton plantations.

Para (ship) South Sea Islanders, recruited for the Queensland cane fields, being carried in boats to the Para. (Descriptions supplied with photograph). The English artist who produced this drawing, William Twizell Wawn, captained ships between 1875 and 1891.
Para (ship) South Sea Islanders, recruited for the Queensland cane fields, being carried in boats to the Para. (Descriptions supplied with photograph). The English artist who produced this drawing, William Twizell Wawn, captained ships between 1875 and 1891.
SUGRA PRICE HISTORY.
200+ years of sugar pricing
these exploitative labour market practices in the sugar industry started in 1863 – almost 60 years after Britain and the United States had made slave trading illegal.
Exploitative labor market practices in the sugar industry started in 1863 – almost 60 years after Britain and the United States had made slave trading illegal.

Tens of thousands of Pacific Island laborers were brought to Australia from neighboring Melanesian and Polynesian islands.  In particular, Queensland, during the late 19th century, used these indentured laborers for work on sugarcane plantations. Estimates suggest around 60,000 to 80,000 humans were involved.

Fiji was another major destination and saw a significant influx of blackbirded laborers, with estimates ranging from 60,000 to 70,000 individuals. The sugarcane industry in Fiji heavily relied on coerced labor.

The deportations began in 1906 and continued until 1908. More than 7500 South Sea Islanders were returned to their home country, though some had arrived in Australia at such a young age they would have had no memory of it. About 2500 Pacific Islanders stayed in Australia.

In Australia and other colonial powers involved in black birding, legislative measures were introduced to regulate and eventually restrict the recruitment of labor from Pacific Island nations. These measures aimed to improve labor conditions and protect the rights of indigenous populations. The practices associated with blackbirding were increasingly criticized by humanitarian and human rights advocates internationally. Reports of abuse, mistreatment, and exploitation of laborers led to growing pressure on countries involved in the practice to address these concerns. In various regions, including Australia and Fiji, labor reforms were introduced to address the unethical practices associated with blackbirding. The goal was to ensure fair treatment, appropriate wages, and better working conditions for laborers. Indigenous communities in affected regions began advocating for their rights and raising awareness about the mistreatment and exploitation they faced due to blackbirding. Their efforts contributed to increased attention on the issue and the need for change. As economies evolved and industries changed, the demand for labor through blackbirding diminished. Economic factors, coupled with increased awareness of ethical concerns, contributed to the decline of the practice. By the early 20th century, blackbirding had largely faded as a widespread practice due to a combination of the factors mentioned above. Many countries introduced laws and reforms to prevent the recruitment of labor through coercion and deception.

bundaberg 1895

Formal Deportations of South Sea Island Laborers  began in 1906 and continued until 1908.  More than 7,500 South Sea Islanders were returned to their home country, though some had arrived in Australia at such a young age they would have had no memory of their exact origin.  Indenture ceased in Fiji in 1911.

The official Australian South Sea Islander flag initially designed in consultation with the ASSI community. The flag was formally adopted in 1998 by ASSIUC. The colour scheme incorporates colours resonant to people with forebears of which the three quarters of the trade were taken from the 83 islands of Vanuatu and are represented through colours green, gold and black, a third of the trade was from the Solomon Islands represented with blue, white, green. The overall flag is inclusive other parts of the South Pacific affected by Blackbirding as we are connected through the ocean blue and white stars.

The official Australian South Sea Islander flag initially designed in consultation with the ASSI community. The flag was formally adopted in 1998. The color scheme incorporates colors resonant to people with forebears of which the three quarters of the trade were taken from the 83 islands of Vanuatu and are represented through colors green, gold and black, a third of the trade was from the Solomon Islands represented with blue, white, green. The overall flag is inclusive other parts of the South Pacific affected by Blackbirding as we are connected through the ocean blue and white stars.

While the formal abolition of blackbirding marked an important step in ending the exploitative practices, it's important to recognize that the legacy of blackbirding continues to impact affected communities to this day. The efforts to remember this history, address its consequences, and promote awareness of human rights and social justice continue in the affected regions.


SAFETY ALERT: A SAILBOAT HITS A REEF IN FIJI: LESSONS LEARNED

SAFETY ALERT: A SAILBOAT HITS A REEF IN FIJI

*LESSONS LEARNED*

Some people say that sailing in Fiji is so difficult that the longer one sails there hitting a reef at some point is unavoidable.  And then, some people say that with careful planning, constant vigilance, sticking to vetted tracks on Open CPN, and a conservative eye on the weather, one can safely navigate in Fiji.  AND, Anywhere on this continuum accidents can and do happen.

Last week a singlehanded sailor hit a reef in Fiji.  Below we will be careful to only look at the facts for lessons to be learned and avoid armchair judgements.  As mariners we want to know what went wrong and what lessons can be learned so that we can all be safer in the future.

Here is what we know happened:

  • A single-handed sailor planned to sail from a marina in Fiji to an atoll. This requires entering the atoll through a clear passage in the reef.  There is current to contend with and timing through the pass is very important.
  • The route was pre-planned, and the timing was taken into consideration.
  • Open CPN was up to date with a vetted track loaded to follow.
  • A GPS dongle is used as a locating device for Open CPN on the computer.
  • Navionics onboard as well.
  • The morning of departure was cloudy and rainy so the computer with Open CPN had to be kept down below.
  • A few miles out of the marina, the GPS was not tracking & Open CPN showed the boat still in the slip in the marina
  • Sailor decides to use and follow waypoints on Navionics and continue as planned.

(NOTE: the waypoints used are unknown)

  • When the sailor approached the reef, the weather was bad and there were whitecaps everywhere.
  • The sailor could not see the reef in the whitecaps under the cloudy sky.
  • The boat hit the reef outside entrance channel and off planned course to entrance.

Tracks showing routes entering pass and boat (red) off course pinned on a reef

Thankfully, with local help, the boat was freed of the reef, the boat is still afloat, and the captain is safe.

Take Aways from SV MONSOON:

  • The boat is an old, stout, and thick fiberglass vessel: The Thickness of the hull was probably a saving grace.
  • If the day dawns cloudy or stormy, consider waiting for better weather.
  • Travelling through passages in reefs are best done under clear sunny skies mid-day for best visibility.
  • Open CPN with up to date satellite charts and previously use tracks by similar boats are the best navigational aides in FIJI.
  • If the GPS is not tracking, trouble shoot before continuing.
  • No matter how many miles one has sailed, there is no room for complacency in Fiji.

Additional take away from SV AVANT

  • Patience is often a mariners second best friend (with luck always being the first and best).
Another Track available to Posse members that is more protected inside the reef

MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI

MUST SEE: LEVUKA, FIJI 🇫🇯

THE ORIGINAL GUNKHOLES OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Levuka Signpost and town entrance
Levuka was once the capitol of Fijji

Levuka is a town on the eastern coast of the Fijian Island of Ovalau.  Up until 1877, it was the capital of Fiji.  Currently, this strangely haunted town has a population of about 5,000.  It is the economic hub of the largest of 24 settlements on the Island.  Levuka was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in June 2013, in recognition of the port town's exceptional testimony to the late colonial port towns in the Pacific Ocean.

Old image of Levuka

The modern town of Levuka was founded around 1820 by European settlers and traders as the first modern town in the Fiji Islands.  Levuka quickly became an important port and trading post in the Pacific.  A disparate band of settlers made up Levuka's population- traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, vagabonds, and even respectable businessmen.  Much of Levuka’s unique heritage is in its wooden architecture (highly vulnerable to fire).

The South Pacific’s first Masonic Lodge is Levuka’s only Romanesque building.

The South Pacific's first Masonic Lodge was built in 1913 and housed the Freemasons that were established in Levuka by Alexander Barrack in 1875.  There is much controversy about the Masonic fraternity in Fiji.  The dominant traditional Christian faiths consider the Masons to be devil-worshippers.   The Masonic Lodge was burned down in the 2000 Fiji coup d'etat.  The Lodge contained priceless historical artifacts and records of Levuka's history dating back to 1875.  The arsonists have yet to be identified and prosecuted.

A stunning anchorage behind the reef

SV WINDSONG SAILS FROM FRENCH POLYNESIA TO FIJI

SOUTH PACIFIC PASSAGE REPORT:

French Polynesia to Fiji, with stops in Aitutaki and Vava’u, Tonga.

with Erick & Jenny on SV WINDSONG

Erick and the sea ahead
Jenny at ease in the cockpit

Having cleared out of French Polynesia in Bora Bora, we made way towards French Polynesia’s westernmost settled island of Maupiti to wait for our weather window to sail west towards Tonga, and our ultimate destination of Fiji. We entered Maupiti through the narrow and daunting pass, and dropped anchor in the beautiful lagoon, ready to spend a few days enjoying the last taste of French Polynesia. Those few days ultimately ended up being over three weeks, as the South Pacific weather patterns decided to send system after system of immense swells towards French Polynesia, pinning us into Maupiti.

Maupiti’s one pass faces directly south, as such it receives the dominant southerly swells face on. When swells reach 2 meters and above, it is unsafe to navigate in a small sailboat not only due to the waves nearly closing out the channel, but also the strong current caused by all the water needing to escape the lagoon. The dominant winds oppose the current, causing chaotic standing waves.  While there were a few times where the wind forecast looked good for us to leave towards Tonga, the waves kept us pinned in for all those weeks.

Once the wait was finally over, we had a clear weather window to sail west and the swells died down. We enjoyed one final night in Maupiti experiencing the opening ceremonies of the French Polynesian Heiva festival, a lovely way to send us off to the next adventure.  The next morning, we set sail, having beautiful sunny skies and perfect 15-17 knots downwind.  Only two days into the passage, a trough which was in the forecast but was previously showing to be quick and mild, had now strengthened and pushed more north, right into our path in about 5 days. One more day’s forecast update now showed we would enter a nasty zone of rotating winds as the trough pushed through our path.  We decided to alter course further South to Aitutaki, Cook Islands.

Birds change course and so do boats: SV WINDSONG alters course and favor of better weather.

We spent a lovely 10 days in Aitutaki waiting out the front, which showed some nasty rotating winds as we were at anchor, giving us comfort that we made the right decision to put into port instead of carrying on at sea.  Once conditions settled, we set out to Tonga.  We saw another weak trough coming through on the forecast, so we aimed northwest to get out of the potential zone of thunderstorms or squalls.  The first few days were prefect sailing, and once the trough moved below us we had one day of dead calm wind, which we motored through, before the southeasterlies came back. We escaped the squalls thankfully, and now turned more southeast towards Tonga.

The next few days were among the roughest we have had at sea.  While the winds were steady at 20-25 knots, it was the seas that gave us the most trouble. 3 meters, very short period, coming from multiple directions.  It was the first time in almost 10,000 nm sailed that both of us felt seasick.  We always keep night watches in the cockpit, but waves would regularly break over the boat, soaking us and making for uncomfortable conditions; as such we spent much of our time below.  The next three days passed like this, and we finally made landfall in Vava’u Tonga, happy to have the long part of the “dangerous middle” Pacific past us.

Night sailing full moon love

With a few weeks of time enjoyed in Tonga, we set sail for the last of our long passages to Fiji.  This passage was just about the best sailing we have ever experienced, easy light winds and mellow seas.  Humpback whales breaching here and there, fish on the lines, easy motion, sunny skies and a stunning full moon.  We are now settled into Fiji and look forward to only needing to do short hop sails for the rest of the season.

A tranquil anchorage: a beacon of hope as one's endurance is pressed out at sea

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURE ON THE WATER

SV WINDSONG 🇺🇸 Erick & Jenny - Downeaster Cutter 38′

https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SV-Windsong-2/?useGoogle
fiji

Erick - WindsongJenny - Windsong

 


GOOD NAUTICAL: Makogai Island Dalice Village, FIJI

GOOD NAUTICAL:

Makogai Island Dalice Village, FIJI

17° 26.4200' S, 178° 57.9100' E

White sand beach and clear turquoise water in Makogai, Fiji

Makogai is located in the heart of the Lomaiviti Group in Fji.  Makogai is not only abundant with biodiversity and beauty, but brimming with South Pacific history. Like many Islands in the South Pacific, approaching the island and navigating to the anchorage requires careful study, preparation, and planning.  Ideally, once the anchor is set gently in the sand paradise it found.

Recently, Pacific Posse member asked the group whether anyone had a track for entering Makogai.  Chris on SeaGlub quickly responded:

Haven't been myself but this is a shot from trusted friends:

Tracks for entering Makogai in Fiji

*NOTE: these tracks are shared friend to friend...a POSSE PERK...verification and a sharp lookout still required.

To read more about Makogai click on this link:

https://goodnautical.com/fiji/anchorage/makogai
https://goodnautical.com/fiji/anchorage/makogai
https://goodnautical.com/fiji/anchorage/makogai
https://goodnautical.com/fiji/anchorage/makogai

https://www.fijimarinas.com/anchorage-at-makogai-a-significant-south-pacific-treasure/

Makogai Island, located in Fiji's Lomaiviti Group, offers a unique experience for sailors, blending natural beauty with rich historical significance. The island is best known for its past as a leprosy colony from 1911 to 1969, and today, remnants of this history can still be explored, including the old leper colony ruins and a graveyard. The island now serves as a mariculture center focused on the conservation and breeding of giant clams, an effort crucial for maintaining marine biodiversity​ (Two At Sea)​​ (Levuka Town)​.

For sailors, anchoring at Makogai Island, particularly in Dalice Bay, presents a serene and picturesque spot. The anchorage is protected by surrounding reefs and small islets, offering a calm and enclosed environment. The approach to Dalice Bay can be navigated through two main passes, with the north entrance often preferred for its ease. Once anchored, sailors can engage with the island's caretaker, who also acts as an informal chief, by participating in a traditional sevusevu ceremony, where kava is presented as a gift. In return, the caretaker provides a tour of the island, including the leper colony ruins and the giant clam farm​ (Two At Sea)​​ (Wikipedia)​.

Makogai Island is also home to a significant marine research station, focusing on the conservation of giant clams and trochus clams. This initiative began in the 1980s and has since played a vital role in repopulating Fiji's reefs with these important species. The island's ecosystem, featuring verdant hills, palm-covered flatlands, and clear teal waters, adds to the allure for visiting sailors​ (Wikipedia)​​ (Diver Bliss)​.