MUST SEE La Lonja de la Seda, Spain

🇪🇸 La Lonja de la Seda, Spain 🇪🇸
39°28'27.7"N 0°22'41.9"W

The UNESCO Silk Exchange BUILDING in Valencia

La Lonja de la Seda de Valencia was built over 500 years ago

Valencia, the “Medina al-Tarab” (City of Sand), is one of the oldest cities in Spain. The city was founded on the banks of the River Turia in 138 BC by the Romans, and began to prosper in the Andulasian period (714 AD-1171 AD). The advent of Islamic culture brought with it a myriad of trading activities related to paper, silk, leather and ceramics and placed Valencia as a commercial hub. After witnessing a brief period of decline, Valencia again revived its importance in the 15th Century, a period which is also referred to as the “Golden Period of Valencia”. They are noteworthy monuments related to the Silk Roads heritage and to the silk industry in the city. La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) in Valencia, Spain, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and an iconic example of Gothic architecture. It's a must-see due to its historical significance, stunning design, and cultural value. Here's why:

La Lonja was built between 1482 and 1548 to serve as the city's silk trading center during the height of Valencia's economic power. Interestingly, this building replaced a previous building which was called the oil exchange and was where the trade of agricultural oil and other business was conducted. The rising prosperity of Valencia in the 15th century led to the building of the Lonja, the current silk exchange. The exchange was a symbol of the city's wealth, where merchants from all over Europe and the Mediterranean came to conduct business. The building showcases stunning Gothic architecture, blending civil and religious influences. The main hall (Sala de Contrataciones or the Contract Hall), with its incredible vaulted ceiling supported by twisted columns, is a masterpiece of design. This is where merchants come to discuss and negotiate contracts. The twisted columns were meant to look like palm trees branching into the sky. The columns themselves were painted brown, the branching up high green, and beyond, blue. While the hall is still stunning today, this painted palm forest was surely a very different look than the bare sandstone of today and must have been very impressive.

The contract hall Photo Credit: Facto Foto.

The patio and the tower are notable parts of La Lonja as well. The Patio, or inner courtyard, has an open-air design that is stunning, offering an insight into the architectural ingenuity of the period. The tower is fortified with defensive features, symbolic of the importance of the building in the city's trade and security. It is said that traders who were found guilty of fraud were imprisoned in the tower. The ornate detailing in the form of carvings and sculptures is another highlight of the building's grandeur.

Intricate gargoyle stands watch near the tower of La Lonja

In 1996, La Lonja was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its exceptional contribution to the architecture of Europe and its importance to Valencia's historical development. It remains one of the best-preserved examples of civil Gothic architecture in Spain. It stands out among this style of architecture as well for it is among the few that was not a church or a cathedral. Inside, visitors can admire a series of frescoes and sculptures, as well as a collection of artworks that showcase the wealth and artistic sophistication of the time. The building also houses exhibitions about its history and the importance of the silk trade in Valencia's rise as a Mediterranean commercial powerhouse.

Far to the west see Valencia on the Silk Road map
Silk loom
Silk thread and woven fabric

Silk fiber production process

Loom in the Requena Silk Museum. / Image provided by Ester Alba

The main activity of the Valencian silk industry from the fifteenth to the end of the seventeenth century was the production of silk fiber, a job that was carried out intensively from March to June. “The production of silk fiber was a very intense activity carried out in a very specific season, but it was vital for the survival of peasant families”, explains Professor Ricardo Franch. It started by warming silkworm eggs through different methods, like using body heat or the warmth of the sun, but not before a ritual that involved bringing the silkworm eggs to the church to bless them. The enormous dedication required by this process was due to the fact that the income was obtained in June, coinciding with the payment of different leases. Thus, silk harvesting was essential to obtain the income needed to meet the economic demands of peasant families. When June arrived and the worms had already finished the cocoon, the silk was spun. This work, carried out mainly by women, was hard and left its mark on the hands of the peasants who pulled the thread after soaking it in hot water.

 

It's easy to visit La Lonja as it is centrally located in Valencia, close to other historic sites, such as the Central Market and Valencia Cathedral. The building is open for tours, and it's often less crowded than other famous sites in Spain, allowing a more relaxed visit. La Lonja de la Seda is a must-see for anyone visiting Valencia due to its stunning architecture, historical significance, and status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It beautifully represents the peak of Valencia's commercial and cultural influence in the Middle Ages, making it a vital part of the city's heritage.

https://oceanposse.com/spain/


MV TIDINGS OF JOY VISITS AN EMBERA VILLAGE

MV TIDINGS OF JOY VISITS AN EMBERA VILLAGE

Highlights visiting an Embera village in Panama; we were welcomed with music
The Embera traditionally cook over an open fire.  We enjoyed fresh caught fish and plaintains.
The Embera live in elevated thatch roofed huts

Tidings of Joy took a guided tour of the native village of the Embera tribe in Panama recently.  Here is their trip report:

Our wonderful guide Goran (+507 6314-0827) picked us up in front of Flamenco Marina and drove for a short, one hour drive outside the city to Chagres National Park. We watched the buildings, traffic and. noise melt into green lush trees, birds and silence. When we arrived at the parking lot, we were met by two native Embera men wearing traditional clothing. Our guide mentioned this isn’t their everyday wears but when there is a celebration, or they want to demonstrate their culture they will wear them. We walked down to a long, narrow wooden boat with single rows of seats that didn’t appear very sturdy at first glance. As we filed in one by one we were careful to walk in the middle to not tip the boat. One native man drove the outboard powered boat from the stern while the second man stood watch on the bow using a homemade wood pole as both a spear and a seat.

The bowman.
Jeff and Joy of MV Tidings of Joy sitting in a single wide vessel en route to the village
A waterfall in the lush jungle near the village

The river was long and somewhat shallow in spots and wrapped in green voluptuous trees. Birds flew overhead as we wound our way down the river. Our first stop was a forest where we walked on a muddy path over rocks and through streams to get to a gorgeous waterfall. Despite the water being a little chilly we all plunged in and swam to the waterfall. It felt freeing and safe and perfect. After we finished gallivanting in the water we made the trek back to our wood boat and carefully piled in. Our next stop was at the Embera village where women in traditional clothes greeted everyone individually shaking our hands and saying “welcome/bienvenido” as we walked up the slight incline towards the village. As we got closer four Embera men were standing in a line playing traditional music welcoming us. We were all seated in one of their two communal kitchens and observed two women frying up fish and plantains in a cauldron full of oil. While we waited for lunch to cook a different native woman stood in front of us and told us about their rich and vast history. We learned that the Embera tribe was not always from this area but used to reside down in the Darian region but because the boat ride full of fresh fruits to sell in the city took 7 days causing all of their food to spoil, they decided to move closer to the city. In this Embera village there are only 25 families. Each one lives in a homemade wooden house elevated 5-6 feet from the ground to prevent flooding and minimalize animal invasion. Children are taken by boat to school in a neighboring village where a teacher from the city teaches them Monday-Friday before returning to the city for the weekend. Presently, tourism is their main source of income. Each day men go out fishing and bring their catches back for the woman to prepare for the days meals. After our education about the Embera tribe we feasted on a lunch of fried fresh tilapia and fried plantains all served in a banana leaf wrapped in the shape of a bowl and a table full of fresh fruits the guides had provided. With full bellies and a lot to think about we were escorted into a large communal hut we were told was used for ceremonies and communal gathering. The locals had tables surrounding the perimeter filled with handmade crafts for sale. They wove baskets and plates and bowls along with jewelry and fabric they had created the designs for. Some of the men had wood carvings for sale of various animals and even wooden knives which Jeff decided he needed to have. After a brief lap around we all sat on wood benches and watched as the native woman performed traditional dances. Several men surrounded them playing instruments while they chanted and moved around. They even encouraged audience participation, and I sat watching as Jeff was escorted around in a circle hand and hand with a native woman teaching him their dance. All of the woman tourists were given homemade flower crowns to wear home. Embera felt like a peaceful eutopia and a wonderful pause from all of the commotion and chaos of everyday life. A tour we would highly recommend.

Women dancing in the communal hut.

THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE!

MY TIDINGS OF JOY 🇺🇸 Jeff & Joy - DeFever 52′


TURNING WASTE INTO OPPORTUNITY AT FINCA HAMBURGO CHIAPAS, MEXICO

TURNING WASTE INTO OPPORTUNITY

FINCA HAMBURGO, CHIAPAS, MEXICO

Re-Creativa Sustentable Finca Hamburgo

At Re-Creativa, we are more than just a recycling project—we are a community of six women from Finca Hamburgo, deeply committed to turning waste into opportunity. What started as a simple idea has grown into a powerful initiative where we transform plastic waste into beautiful, functional products. Not only are we making a positive impact on the environment, but we are also creating economic opportunities for ourselves and other women in rural communities, right here in the heart of Chiapas, Mexico.

6 deeply committed women turning waste into opportunity in Chiapas, Mexico

Our Journey to Sustainability

Living in the lush mountains of Chiapas, surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty, we’ve seen firsthand the challenges posed by plastic waste. There is little infrastructure here for waste management, and much of the plastic ends up in rivers or lands in open dumps, damaging our environment. We knew something had to change.

That’s when we teamed up with In Mocean and Finca Hamburgo, our home. Finca Hamburgo is a historic coffee farm in the heart of Chiapas, and it became the perfect foundation for us to build something meaningful. Together, we began the journey to create a space where we could recycle plastic waste and turn it into useful, sell'able products—helping the planet and creating opportunities for our community.

Education is a imperative component of addressing the plastic pollution.

Transforming Plastic into Creativity

It all started with a workshop. Nike, a passionate sailor and founder of In Mocean, reached out to us and offered to lead an introductory workshop at Finca Hamburgo. We invited women and children from the community to join, and together we learned how to make simple drafts from shredded plastic. Over two days, the idea of Re-Creativa started to take shape. We realized we could turn plastic waste into something more—something creative, useful, and impactful.

From that moment on, we knew we had to build something lasting: a community-led recycling workspace where we could create, learn, and contribute to a cleaner, greener future.

Earrings are just one of the items re-created from plastic waste

Setting Up Our Workspace

With support from In Mocean, the REESE Gruppe, and generous donors, we received the equipment we needed—machines like a shredder and an extruder. Just two weeks after our first workshop, Nike and Maria (co-founder of In Mocean) returned to Finca Hamburgo, and we got to work. We learned how to operate the machines, sort plastics, and use our creativity to make products that would not only help the environment but also generate income.

Our first creations were colorful earrings made from shredded plastic. We quickly began to experiment, crafting bowls and beams using the extruder. But it wasn’t just about making things—it was about learning how to run our new workspace as a small business. We discussed how to generate income, market our products, and sustain this new venture for the long term.

The machine that is used to shred the collected, washed, and sorted plastic.

Early Successes and Growing Together

As we took ownership of Re-Creativa, we named our workspace and even designed our logo. We set up an Instagram account to showcase our creations, and soon, the sales started rolling in. The money we earned helped support our families and fueled our passion for the project. With each new product, we saw our skills grow, and we began working on a new goal: our first prototype for a chair made from recycled beams.

What makes Re-Creativa so special is the sense of community we’ve built together. We are no longer just recycling plastic—we are creating something bigger than ourselves. The bond we share as we work, learn, and grow together is the heart of this project. We’ve even begun hosting workshops in schools and cultural centers in Tapachula, sharing our journey and encouraging others to join the movement.

Re-creativa is creating community on many levels to take waste, beautify their immediate environment, and create a new local economic opportunity.

A Beacon of Sustainable Change

For us, Re-Creativa is more than just a workspace—it’s a beacon of hope. It shows that even small, simple actions can lead to big changes. By turning waste into valuable products, we’re not only helping the environment, but we’re also creating opportunities, building a sense of community, and inspiring others to act.

As we continue to grow, we are more determined than ever to transform waste into creativity, opportunity, and empowerment. We know that this is just the beginning, and we’re excited to see where this journey takes us.

Join Us for a Recycling Workshop and Visit Finca Hamburgo

We’d love for you to come and visit us at Finca Hamburgo. Experience the beauty of our home and see firsthand the work we’re doing at Re-Creativa. Join us for a hands-on recycling workshop, where you’ll learn how we turn plastic waste into creative, functional products. It’s a chance to connect with our community, see the impact of our work, and be part of the positive change we’re building together.

From la Marina in Tapachula Chiapas it’s a 2 hour drive to Finca Hamburgo. For more information about the hotel, restaurant and spa, please contact Ulises: +52 962 153 2916.
Any information about coffee or the recycling workshop, I am happy to help.
Let me know of you need any more information.
Hear from you soon.
Lisa

Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish Across the Oceans

 Different Ways of Eating Raw Fish

Across the Oceans

People living coastally or on islands are deeply connected to the ocean for their sustenance.  Eating raw fish is common across many cultures around the globe, each with its own unique traditions and methods for preparing and enjoying this delicacy. Here are several different ways raw fish is eaten as a main dish across the Oceans that the Ocean Posse cruises:

1. Ceviche (Latin America)

Peruvian ceviche

Ceviche has it’s roots in the northwestern region of South America that are now
known as Ecuador and Peru.  Overtime the dish has spread throughout Central America with each country, each region, each family adding their own touch of individuality.  Ceviche is the result of fish (often Mahi mahi, snapper, or corvina) and/or other seafood (for example shrimp, conch, or Octopus) being submerged in salt and lime juice.  The chemical process that occurs is similar to fish getting ‘cooked’ in which the flesh turns opaque and gets firm…although the fish is not truly cooked.

The additional ingredients, the presentation, the size, and the accompaniments vary greatly depending on where you are.  For instance, along the Gold Coast in Mexico ceviche is commonly a mix of fish or mixed seafood with tomatoes, onions, jalapenos, and cilantro served on a large platter with a basket overflowing with various large corn disks called tostados.  Further south, in Panama, ceviche is commonly served in small individual servings with diced onions and lots of juice and a small singular packet of crackers.  Further south still to Peru, the birthplace of ceviche, raw fish is marinated in lime juice, as well as thinly sliced onion. The dish is served with sweet potato slices, small portions of toasted corn, and plantain chips.  They are all DELICIOUS ….just different….and sampling ceviche along the route is highly recommended.

2. Poisson Cru (Polynesian and South Pacific Islands)

Poisson Cru

The name poisson cru literally translates to "raw fish" in French.  For many centuries native Polynesians and people of the South Pacific Islands were harvesting reef fish and pelagic fish and coconuts as a mainstay of their diet.  The preparation was once as simple as  pouring fresh squeezed coconut milk over raw fish and has evolved to include lime juice after the Europeans introduced citron (limes).  Poisson Cru has a distinctive flavor and texture that is generally more mild that ceviche. While it is sometimes compared to ceviche due to the use of raw fish and citrus juice, poisson cru has its own unique preparation and cultural significance.  Poisson Cru is often served with or over rice or taro with cucumbers and/or tomatoes.  Seasonal and regional twists include adding fruits like mango or papaya or other vegetables like carrots or avocados.  Salt and Pepper may be added for flavor.

Poisson Cru is made at home, during celebrations, and often served at communal gatherings or feasts.  It is considered a symbol of hospitality and represents a longstanding connection to the sea.  The preparation and sharing of poisson cru are deeply embedded in the social fabric of Polynesian life.

Overall, poisson cru is more mild and creamy while ceviche is more tangy and snappy.  Both are fresh, crunchy, and scrumptious.

3. Poke (Hawaiian Islands)

Hawaiian Poke was once a very simple dish made of locally sources ingredients: fish, salt, and seaweed from the sea, seasoned with roasted tree nuts.

The word 'poke' (like 'okay') was a Hawaiian word that meant 'to cut crosswise into pieces'.  The dish that has taken on the name Poke is one that stems from one of the staple foods of the early Polynesian people of Hawaii.  The early Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands lived off the sea.  It is said they often cut crosswise and salted raw reef fish cutoffs and seasoned this with seaweed and roasted kokui nuts.  Over time, after the arrival of people from the continents to the east and the west, this staple food began to evolve and take on tastes and flavors from both sides of the ocean.  For example in the late 19th century many Japanese workers immigrated to Hawaii as sugar and pineapple plantation laborers.  Instead of using salt and seaweed to season their raw fish they used shoyu (soy sauce) and sesame oil.  They would eat this fish with white rice.  In this way, some say that the Japanese immigrants also introduced the rice base to the modern day Poke.  Westerners are said to have introduces spices, onions, and chili peppers.  Poke of today is a serious fusion of flavor traditions that appeals to the culinary tastes across many cultures.  While the dish has evolved greatly and spread far from Hawaii, Poke is still known as an adaptable delicious Hawaiian dish.  Poke can be savory and sweet, spicy or mild.  The fish is still marinated in a salty medium with seaweed is often served in bowl over rice with an added assortment of fresh, thinly cut colorful vegetables, fruit, and roasted nuts.

4. Pickled Herring (Northern Europe)

Pickled herring has long been a staple food in Northern Europe and people on the Mediterranean Sea

Pickling as a preservation method for fish has been around for over two millennia, and herring, being one of the most abundant fish in European waters, was an ideal candidate for pickling. The process of pickling, which involves immersing fish in a brine or vinegar solution, allowed people to preserve the catch for long periods, particularly in the colder months when fresh fish was scarce.

The earliest records of pickled fish date back to the time of the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks were known to use vinegar and salt to preserve fish, and Roman texts suggest that pickled herring was a common foodstuff. The Romans also had a type of fermented fish sauce called garum, which was made from fish, including herring.  During the medieval period, pickled herring became essential for the European diet, especially in coastal regions and inland areas with limited access to fresh fish. The Hanseatic League, a medieval trade network of merchants in Northern Europe, played a key role in the spread of pickled herring trade, especially from the Netherlands, where herring fishing was a major industry.

Herring fishing and pickling became especially prominent in the Netherlands in the 15th and 16 century during the Dutch Golden Age.  Herring from the North Sea was abundant, and the Dutch perfected the art of preserving it by salting and pickling to export it to cities across Europe.  In the 1400s, Dutch fishermen discovered a method to "cure" herring by packing it in barrels with salt and vinegar, effectively preserving it for long voyages or storage. The Dutch developed the technique of "zout-haring" (salt herring), which involved using the fish's own brine and salt to preserve it.  The "New" Herring: The practice of pickling herring became so widespread that the beginning of each fishing season was marked by the arrival of the new herring, which was considered a delicacy. This was especially true in places like Amsterdam, where herring was not only a common food for the lower classes but also a symbol of prosperity and trade.

Over time, pickled herring became deeply ingrained in the culinary traditions of many Northern European cultures. It was particularly important in the Nordic countries, the Baltic states, and Germany.  In countries like Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, pickled herring (known as sill in Swedish) is a beloved part of the traditional holiday table. It is often served during holidays such as Midsummer, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Swedish pickled herring, or inlagd sill, is often flavored with ingredients like mustard, onions, and dill.  In Germany, herring is often served with onions, apples, and mustard, and in the Netherlands, it is commonly served raw or marinated and eaten with rye bread or on a bun. Dutch herring, also known as "Hollandse Nieuwe," is particularly famous. It is a type of herring that is eaten shortly after being caught, before it has been heavily salted or pickled. It is usually served raw and dipped in onions or eaten straight from the fishmonger's stall.

By the 19th century, with the development of refrigeration and other preservation techniques, the necessity of pickling fish for preservation decreased. However, pickled herring continued to be popular as a flavorful and nostalgic food.  European immigrants, particularly from Scandinavia, Germany, and the Netherlands, brought the tradition of eating pickled herring to America, especially to cities with large immigrant populations like New York. In the U.S., pickled herring became a common dish in Jewish delicatessens and is a part of Eastern European Jewish cuisine (particularly among Ashkenazi Jews), where it is often served as an appetizer with rye bread.  In the 20th century, the canning of pickled herring became widespread, making it more accessible around the world. Canned herring became popular not just as a snack but as a component of many ready-to-eat meals.

Today, pickled herring continues to be enjoyed in many parts of the world, from Scandinavia to Germany, and it remains an important part of traditional meals. Modern variations of pickled herring can be found in many supermarkets and gourmet shops, where it may come in different flavors, including spicy, sweet, or mustard-infused varieties.

Pickled herring has evolved from an essential preservation method to a beloved culinary tradition in many Northern European and Scandinavian cultures. Its history reflects the ingenuity of people in maritime regions, who turned abundant fish into a flavorful and lasting foodstuff. Whether served raw, marinated, or in sauces, pickled herring remains a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, offering a glimpse into the cultural importance of preserving food for long-term enjoyment.

Eating raw fish is a global practice, with each culture putting its unique spin on how the fish is prepared, seasoned, and served. Whether marinated in citrus, salted and dried, or simply sliced fresh, raw fish continues to be an essential and cherished part of culinary traditions worldwide.


ROOTS OF THE DAY OF THE DEAD TODAY

ROOTS OF THE DIA DE LOS MUERTOS:

DAY OF THE DEAD CELEBRATION TODAY 

Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead is a Mexican holiday celebrated throughout Mexico (particularly in Central and Southern Mexico) over a two day period: November 1st (Dia de los Angelitos dedicated to deceased children) and 2nd (Dia de los Muertos dedicated to deceased adults).  Today, Dia day Los Muertos is celebrated by people of Mexican heritage elsewhere throughout the world as well. The multi-day holiday involves family and friends gathering to pray for, remember, and honor friends and family members who have died.  Today, traditions connected with the holiday include building altars called ofrendas.  Oferendas are build in people's homes or in public spaces.  During this time people also visit cemeteries to clean the gravesite or headstone of a deceased loved one and decorate their grave with gifts such as calaveras (skulls), calacas (skulls), strings of marigolds, the favorite foods and beverages of the departed.  Visitors also leave possessions of the deceased at the graves.  In some regions there are parades and women dress as Catrinas in lavish gowns, their faces painted.  The parades include music and performance dancing.  Today, Dia De Los Muertos is a time for those in the mortal realm to help support the spiritual journey of the dead.  In Mexican culture, death is viewed as a natural part of the human cycle.  Mexicans view this holiday not as a day of sadness, but as a day of celebration.

Gravesites are often seen adorned with strings of marigolds this time of year.

The Dia De Los Muertos holiday of today is a product of the different faiths and traditions of both indigenous people of Mexico (dating back thousands of years), Roman Catholicisim (dating back hundreds of years), and modern culture mixing over time.  In the case of celebrating life and death in today's Dia de los Muertos, the roots of these indigenous and traditional beliefs go back thousands of years to indigenous Aztec people of what is now central and southern Mexico.  The Aztecs did not see death as the end of one's existence, rather, another stage of one's life.  One can not live without death and one cannot die without living.  It is thought that they believed that the realm of the living world, the divine, and the spirit world all exist.  Originally, Día de los Muertos was the entire ninth month of the Aztec calendar. The Aztecs dedicated the month to honoring both the people that would reincarnate as well as the god that allowed humans to reincarnate. In particular, they honored the god Mictlantecuhtli. The festivities celebrating it were known as Miccailhuitontli or Huey Micailhuitl, which translates to ‘The Great Feast of the Dead’.

Mictlantecuhtli, the God of Death, and his wife, Mictecacihuatl, the Goddess of Death, or Lady of Death and ruler of Mictlān in Aztec Mythology

According to the Great Nahuatl Dictionary, Mictlán means underworld.  Others translate MICTLÁN as “place of the dead.”  Different legends, visual representations and ancient codices define Mictlán as an unknown, dangerous and dark place, which has nine levels. In this worldview, the Earth was considered a being that devoured the flesh of the deceased.  At the time of death, the deceased was thought to be paying off their debt with the Earth, since when they died, they gave continuity to the cycle of the universe.  These nine levels are related to rot, fetid, cold, damp, watery, darkness, and night. The animals related to the Mictlán were owls, bats, worms and centipedes, which were in the service of Mictlantecuhtli and his consort Mictecacíhuatl.​

The Nine Levels:

1. Itzcuintlan

    Place of the dogs

2. Tepectli monamictlan

    Place of the hills that come together

 3. Iztepetl

      Hills of the very sharp flints

4. Itzehecayan

      Place of the obsidian wind

5. Paniecatacoyan

      Place where people fly like flags

6. Timiminaloayan

      Place where people are smitten

7. Teocoyohuehualoyan

     Where the jaguars eat your heart

8. Izmictlan Apochcalolca

      Smoke water lagoon

9. Chicunamictla

     The nine waters.

Part of Codex mendoz which depicts Aztec beliefs, spirituality, and dress.

Death was seen in the underworld of the Aztec world view where much transpires.  Over thousands of years this worldview has maintained life in the spirituality if indigenous people of Mexico.  500 years ago, when the Spanish empire colonized what is now Mexico they brought with them Catholicism and made a devout effort to introduce and convert indigenous people to this faith and view of the world.  Churches were built and people were brought into the Catholic religion.   Catholicism celebrates All Saints’ Day (November 1) and All Souls’ Day (November 2), both of which also commemorate those who have passed.  These celebrations commemorating those that have passed is an area in which the Catholic faith and the indigenous faith found common ground.  It's a syncretism, where indigenous religious practices have merged with the Christian belief systems introduced, or opposed, by the Spanish during the colonial era.  There are actually many examples of syncretism throughout Mexico, most notably found at the main church in San Juan de Chamula in Chiapas.  While the details and beliefs around death and the afterlife diverge greatly the people of Mexico today have a celebration in Dia de los Muertos that has roots spanning thousands of years of indigenous spirituality, hundreds of years or Catholic religious influence, and the modern constant of cultural expression.


THINKING BACK ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY

MARYLAND MY MARYLAND

THINKING BACK ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY

By Mike Descheemaeker, captain aboard the goodship SV WHIRLWIND

I moved to Washington State over 20 years ago and when people ask, "is their anything you miss about back east?" I have one simple answer: the Chesapeake Bay. The Chesapeake Bay was formed by the southern extent of the polar ice cap depressing the ground.  The mighty Susquehanna River and the lesser rivers dredged the rest over a long time.  The Bay has been home to diverse and abundance of flora and fauna and the setting for so many stories in the founding of the United States of America.   I grew up motorboating and sailing on the Bay from the age of nine until I graduated high school. Most of my mucking about was on the Elk River in the northern Bay but a few times a year we would cruise to Baltimore or Annapolis with stops along the way at Worton Creek or Fairlee Creek.  At least once we went all the way down to Crisfield and really got to experience the magic of the Eastern Shore and the Bay.


The Eastern Shore is a place where time seems to stand still and older traditions are still alive.  If you come in by water, especially if you come in by water...the magic is can be found.  Stop and talk with a waterman and try to understand his mix of old English and southern draw combined; their dialect sounds old; it is very unique and difficult to understand if you speak modern day English.  If you are lucky, maybe you can see the last of a working sailing fleet, like a Skipjack, the Maryland State Boat, dredging for oysters.  In the 1800's Chesapeake Bay oysters were considered a white gold and people flocked to the bay to make their riches on this resource.  As with many a gold rush, there was a fever mixed with greed, hard work, and turmoil.  A range of harvesting techniques was followed by substantial depletion and attempts at regulation to preserve the stocks in the Bay.   Maryland made it a law back in the 1900's that oysters could be harvested by dredge under sail or hand tongs.  On a recent trip back to see my dad we stopped at Harris Crab House at the Kent Narrows for crab cakes and hush puppies.  We asked the young waiter about the Skipjack fleet and he looked at me like I was speaking about a ghost he'd never seen.  Fortunately, the old watermen unloading crabs at the dock knew. They said there was only one or two still working from Kent Island but the upkeep cost and lack of crew was making it difficult to operate. It’s not surprising and really amazing that these old sailing oyster dredges are still at it.

The Skipjack is an older fishing boat used to dredge for oysters under sail.

Another piece of bay magic: the Drake Tail work boat.  This narrow, long, open motor boat has a small cuddy cabin and wheel house forward. These boats also date to the early 1900s and were used for going out to the oyster grounds.  One or two guys with long tongs would lean out over the edge of the boat to work the bottom, usually 5-10 feet below, and tong up oysters.  This was back breaking work.  In the summer months lacking the letter 'r' oysters are not in season these same boats were used to run trot lines for the Blue Crab, also a local delicacy.  Even today, looking around the docks up a backwater you can see an old classic workboat tied to the dock or better yet out working an oyster bar or running a trot line.  Trot lines are long lines between two buoys with eel bait tied in with a clove hitch every 4-6 feet.  When the trot line was loaded you dip the crabs with a wire net on a long handle. When it’s happening it’s happening fast and can be a dangerous thrill.  The danger is in the jellyfish, which come up with the net and inevitably get flung about with the dip netting.  When I was a kid, my neighbors ran a trot line and we got to go with them sometimes.  They did not use a classic workboat to run their lines but a 16’ Jon boat trailered down to the middle eastern shore from our elk river home waters. The most memorable day for me was a great day when the crabs were coming fast.  Well, when the crab are coming in fast the jelly fish are getting flung all over the place.  In a quick moment amidst the bumper harvest, my friend, Billy, actually had a jelly fling right into his open mouth!  Billy's day, Bill, ran the boat and always had a cooler of Busch beer and Mountain Dew to fuel the crew.  In this instance, we kids had already drank all the Mountain Dew so Billy got to drink Busch beer for the rest of the day.  Needless to say we were jealous but glad not to have chewed on a jelly.

Restored and active 1925 Draketail workboat

Eventually crabbers moved up to crab pots which called for a bigger boat which gave rise to the now more common dead rise workboat.  These workboats typically have a large cover over the open cockpit. The narrow beam was widened eventually a lot and the elegant drake tail was flattened out the beam carried aft. These boats were first built in wood and some of these are still around.  Time marches on, designs and materials for fabrication have changed.  In the case of old wooden crab boats: many have been replaced with fiberglass and single screws have been doubled which is handy for turning a boat into the slip.  This video offers a glimpse at the history of workboats in the Chesapeake Bay: https://www.soundingsonline.com/news/chesapeake-working-girls

There are lots of fun traditions that live on and commemorate the ways of water life for those that live on the Chesapeake Bay.  For example, the docking competition at Crisfield and Pocomoke city.  If you feel like you are timid coming along side a dock check out a docking competition where captain and a crew member are judged and timed coming in hot turning and backing down into the slip.  The timer stops when four lines are on the pilings. This is a place where paint and piling really get to know one another.  Annual docking competitions happen in Pocomoke City in the end of August or in Crisfield in the beginning of September. A lot of boats, watermen, and water women come together to compete so this a great time to check out different styles of bay boats prideful water people.

A visit to the bottom of the eastern shore of Maryland in the end of summer or the beginning of fall is a great time to explore the tidal tributaries that make the bay so unique.  The Pocomoke River is one of the most northern places where cypress trees grow in the United States. The Pokomoke River Canoe Company rents boats and provides a shuttle service.  The River can be paddled from its headwaters all the way to the mouth at the bay.  The Pokomoke River Canoe Company rents boats and provides a shuttle service for and small boat adventure meandering through a cypress forest lined creek.   Because of it's long life of living in swamps, Cypress is extremely rot resistant and therefore ab important wood for boat and ship builders. The tannins from the trees dye the river waters a dark ice tea hue giving the water a mysterious and haunting look.  This is prime wood duck habitat and their whistles can be heard often before they disappear bending and twisting in flight to screen themselves with the trees.  Again, in my youth, I remember paddling along the lower Pocomoke one spring morning.  I pulled into a wooded inlet and slipped quietly under some over hanging limbs on a point.  Two river otters were playing on the bank a short distance up in the woods.  When they saw me they bolted for the water.  They shot down the bank right at me to dive into the water beside my canoe.  The first one did this in style. The second one ran right into a tree needing a moment to shake off the daze before escaping in the tea colored waters.  As one paddles out of the thick cypress forests the creek slowly widens and shifts from a meandering creek to a tidal river.  The forest gets broken by sections of marsh grasses and reeds.  A low bridge marks the town of Pokomoke City where you may have rented your craft.

Tidal tributaries are what make the Chesapeake Bay so unique.  Rivers that are navigable ,especially with shoal draft vessels, have their starts in beautiful northern hardwood forests.  Sassafras, beech, walnut, oaks, and white pines are some of the trees you might see on these wild waters. The Sassafras, Bohemia, Chester and other rivers on the bay give you an opportunity to see some truly spectacular landscapes slowly changing from forest to marsh.  While draft and bridges will limit river exploration with the big boat, there are many dinghy adventures that can be taken once anchored in a sheltered cove.

Speaking of draft: the Chesapeake has lots of places to experience soft groundings as the Bay is known for it's mud bottom and shallow depths.  It is always best to explore on a rising tide so the tide can assist with refloating. There are definitely some hard sandbars and oyster bars but a lot more mud shoals and shallows. Growing up on the Elk River gives me a different perspective of shallow.  We used to go into some secret spots by running on plane in the Jon boat with the motor set to kick up and skid across mud flats and then drop into deep water on the other side motoring on.  I wouldn’t try that in the big boat!

Mariners who love history will find much to explore.  On the head of Elk in the Scotland Marsh Trojan Yachts were built not far from Fort Defiance.  Fort Defiance is where there was a small gun emplacement visited by George Washington as he escaped from the British and headed south.  The Chesapeake has been used by others to escape as it was a main artery of the Underground Railroad, it’s marshes and wooded tributaries excellent for escaping to the north. Both the Elk River and the Susquehanna flow from the hills of Pennsylvania the Susquehanna actually coming from New York.. This of course was a major route for indigenous communities to move from the north and south trading frequently occurring between the northern woodland tribes and the tidal tribes of the Chesapeake.

As a mariner, an outdoor adventurer, and history enthusiast, the Chesapeake Bay stole my heart at a young age.  I look forward to getting back there someday.  Hopefully, the magic lives on!

 


MUST SEE: MONASTERY OF THE HIERONYMITES AND TOWER OF BELEM LISBON, PORTUGAL

MUST SEE: 🇵🇹 Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém

Lisbon, Portugal 🇵🇹

The Monastery of Hieronymites was built in the 16th century and stands today as an architectural and historical treasure of Portugal

 

 

Nearby the Torre de Belem or Tower of Belém built in the same era guards the entrance to Lisbon Harbor, Portugal

The Monastery of the Hieronymites and the nearby Tower of Belém  are UNESCO world heritage sites that represent the story of the Portuguese Age of Discovery.  Standing along the Tagus River at the entrance to Lisbon harbor, the Monastery of the Hieronymites  and the Tower of Belém . To some the estuary the town of Belem sits on is a perfect metaphor for what the historical landmarks at Belém emphasize – Portuguese influence going out across the ocean and the consequences of all that came back across the sea.

THE MONASTERY OF HIERONYMITES or JERONIMOS

Construction of the Monastery of Hieronymites began in 1501 and culminated 100 years later in 1601.  Today the structure exemplifies Portuguese Gothic Manueline style art at its best.  The Monastery with built near the launch point of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama's first voyage and its construction was funded by a tax on the profits of the yearly Portuguese Indai Armadas.  There was in fact a church in this spot falling into disrepair where it is said that Vasca da Gama and his men stopped to pray before their historic departure to the New World after which he proclaimed the discovery of the sea route to Asia.  In 1880, da Gama's remains and those of the poet Luis de Camoes (who celebrated da Gama's first voyage in his 1572 epic poem, The Lusiad), were moved to new carved tombs in the nave of the monastery's church, only a few meters away from the tombs of the kings Manuel I and John III, whom da Gama had served. The monastery was originally a monastery for the Order of Saint Jerome and was built in such proximity to the Tagus river so that sailors could stop in to pray for protection before setting out to sea.  It became the necropolis of the Portuguese royal dynasty of Aviz in the 16th century and was abandoned in 1833.  In 1983, the Jerónimos Monastery was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the nearby Tower of Belém .

The covered pathways around a grassy quadrangle were unusual in at the time.
The curved archways and intricately carved pillars display symbols tied to religion, royalty, nautical themes and nature.

THE TOWER OF Belém

The nearby Tower of Belém was built between 1514-1520 while the Monastery of Jerome was also under construction with the same stones.  The Tower was built during the reign of King Manuel I as a fortification defending the entry to Lisbon.  Indeed a heavily armed 1,000 ton ship, the Grande Nau, guarded the estuary at the mouth of the Tagus until the fort’s completion.  There are 16 or 17 openings for cannons and ditches around it that were used as dungeons.  The Tower was not a spartan fortification however; the Tower of Belém was also built elaborately as a symbol and a celebration of Portuguese power and triumph in the New World commemorating Vasco da Gama's famous expedition to Asia in the late 1490's.  By the early to mid 1800's the tower’s function changed into a lighthouse and customs house to collect tolls on mariners entering and exiting port.  The Tower is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world.  The Tower of Belém is considered one of the best examples of the architecture of its time, known as the Manueline style, but it also includes distinctive Moorish features such as ornately decorated turrets.  The Tower was adorned with intricate carvings much like the nearby monastery.  All the symbols had a bearing on passersby: some stand too welcome visitors, grant safe passage to explorers, others to protect the shores and people of Portugal while threatening and scaring off invaders.

From the top of the Tower there are sweeping views to the east to the fresh water coming from Portugal and and west to see the salt water coming in from the sea
From the Tower on the the mouth of the Tagus River, Portugal could defend itself from any invading force.
Intricate carvings adorn the Tower of Belém with religious, royal code of arms, and nautical and natural symbols.  

MUST SEE: LA RUTA DEL CAFE in CHIAPAS MEXICO

MUST SEE: LA RUTA DEL CAFE  🇲🇽 CHIAPAS MEXICO 

FINCA HAMBURGO >> The sun rises over the Chiapas mountains around the Tacaná volcano

One cold January morning in the late 1800's, Arthur Erich Edelmann, his wife Doris, and seven other colleagues set sail from Hamburg, Germany, all from Perleberg, a small town an hour and a half from Berlin. Erich had a coffee machinery factory in his hometown, owned by his family, which was facing financial problems when they received and invitation from the Mexican government to bring their machinery and their expertise to the fertile region of Chiapas, Mexico.  It would be amazing to know what they felt when they read that letter of invitation?  That is a story that we do not know and perhaps we never will.  What would you have thought to go from the deeply familiar to a place that seemed like a different world.  Would you take a risk, abandon your business, your city, your people, your country, your language to start from scratch in a place so far away, so different in culture, language, nature and climate?

Erich traveled for three weeks across the Atlantic until he arrived at the Port of Veracruz, where he took a horse-driven cart with his people to go to Soconusco, Chiapas to the wild and untouched lands that he and his family would soon call home.

Before arriving in Mexico, we suppose that Erich had to have read all the information available about Chiapas, about Mexico and its culture, its people, language, nature, its history. However, there was nothing that could have prepared him for the intensity of his new life.

Erich, Doris and their people arrived in Huixtla, a small village with some houses built in adobe and palm trees, inhabited by friendly indigenous families who gave them the mules and human capital necessary to reach their final destination.  From there, it took them another 8 hours to be able to transport along the newly created dirt roads, which looked like tunnels through the dense jungle. On their way they could observe the Tacaná, a volcano whose eruptions transformed the land around it into a fertile paradise.

With the help of workers from San Cristóbal, San Juan Chamula and Guatemala, Erich and his team of architects and engineers began to harmonize the land, build the first houses for the workers, the mill, roads. Erich and Doris lived for 11 years in one of these simple houses, couldn’t afford a bigger house, not yet. The priority was to prepare the land, build all the necessary infrastructure to work, keep people working, provide money and work, houses and food. The priority was its people and the priority was coffee.

They put a lot of work into investing in this long-term project so far from home, a lot of determination and hope, a great risk and a gamble. All that work, all those years, until finally: the first harvest and the start of Finca Hamburgo.

Finca Argovia

This exemplary coffee Resort Located in the Sierra Madre of Chiapas with More than 130 years of history and culminates  as a cultural and extremely worthwhile experience

Argovia is a partner and initiator of the Coffee route in Chiapas, with  cabins, outdoor pool, Spa, Yoga area, Restaurant,  Bar, Event areas and tours.

Chiapas is the southernmost state in Mexico, and it borders the states of Oaxaca to the west, Veracruz to the northwest, and Tabasco to the north, and borders Guatemala to the east and southeast. Chiapas has a significant coastline on the Pacific Ocean.

The lowland, tall perennial rainforest has been almost completely cleared to allow agriculture and ranching. Rainfall decreases moving towards the Pacific Ocean, but it is still abundant enough to allow the farming of bananas, coffee and many other tropical crops near Tapachula. On the several parallel sierras or mountain ranges running along the center of Chiapas, the climate can be quite moderate and foggy, allowing the development of cloud forests like those of Reserva de la Biosfera El Triunfo, home to a handful of horned guans, resplendent quetzals, and azure-rumped tanagers.

Chiapas is home to the ancient Mayan ruins of Palenque, Yaxchilán, Bonampak, Chinkultic and Toniná.

How to get Argovia?

To get to the Finca you have to take 8th Street north (reference: intersection with 17th Street west) located on the border of the city, which will take you north, right at the end will become Road to New Germany. 40 minutes of road without changing your way to find the 39km, you´ll find a signal that says “Argovia 5 minutes” turn your way to the right. You will continue by Finca Eduviges paved road better known as New Germany and only 5 minutes more you’ll be in Argovia. We guarantee that any vehicle from compact to mini sedans can access our Finca with no trouble.

Or sit back and relax on this day trip leave early from marina Chiapas with Miguel Angel of Discovery Tours +52 962 133 6820 toursdiscoverchiapas@hotmail.com

Miguel and Tony lead fabulous, custom tours from Marina Chiapas.


CENTRAL AMERICA CELEBRATES INDEPENDENCE FROM SPANISH RULE

MEXICO, GUATEMALA, NICARAGUA, HONDURAS, EL SALVADOR, AND COSTA RICA CELEBRATE INDEPENDENCE FROM SPANISH RULE

SEPTEMBER 15TH, 1821

Mexico celebrates their independence from Spain with parades, flags, fireworks, music, and dancing.

September 15, 1821 honors Mexican Independence and the signing of the Act of Independence of Central America, also known as the Act of Independence of Guatemala in which all these nations declared their independence from the Spanish Empire.  (Panama gained their independence separately later in 1821.)  This landmark day is celebrated as Independence Day in all of these countries today.  Festivities Include flags flying, parades, fireworks, and traditional food, music, and dancing.

Parade in Nicaragua celebrating Independence Day
Here, Costa Rica announces their annual Independence celebration.  Even though the exact date was not shared by each Central American country, the timeframe was similar and the effort was generally collective.  Today, they each celebrates their independence from Spanish rule on September 15, 1821

Hernan Cortez, arguably had the most dramatic impact of all the Spanish explorers especially in Mexico and Central America.  Born to an impoverished noble family, he sought a life of adventure and riches in the New World.  He trained as a notary before sailing to Hispaniola (modern day Haiti and Dominican Republic) as a colonist in 1504.  After becoming the colony’s notary, he played a key role in the conquest of Cuba in 1511.  In 1518 he was elected captain of the third expedition to what is now Mexico.  He had some bad relations with the governor of Cuba who upon Cortes' departure attempted to recall the expedition.  Cortes ignored this and embarked on the voyage with 500 men, weapons, and horses to conquer Mexico.  Upon arrival, he befriended some natives, made enemy's of others, and sired his first born with a native woman named Dona Maria who also served him as an interpreter.

The Spanish Galleons made landfall at Tabasco in March 1519.
Spaniard Hernando Cortes (1485-1547) led the Spanish Empire ashore in Mexico

And so it was that in 1519, Spanish conquistador and expedition leader, Hernan Cortés, made landfall with men and horses on the shores of what is now Tabasco, Mexico.  He and his forces saw to the demise of the Aztec Empire, made their way inland to Mexico City, and seized power.  While the indigenous people resisted mightily, the Spanish were relentless.  The diseases and weaponry they brought overtook indigenous populations from Mexico south.  Cortés thereby brought a large portion of what is now Mexico, and soon the rest of what is now Central America, under the rule of King Castile.  Thus began the first phase of Spanish colonization of the Americas.  Cortes' second in command, Pedro de Alvarado was commissioned to settle lands further to the south.  One by one, Alvarado colonized the areas that are now known as Guatemala (in 1523), Nicaragua & Costa Rica (in 1524), El Salvador (in 1528), and Honduras (in 1528).  These countries, including what is now the state of Chiapas (in 1609) became known as the Captaincy General of Guatemala for which Spain's King Philip III held dominion.

Spanish and Portuguese Empires 1581-1640: The Spanish and Portuguese went out to the New World to expand their empire, trade, acquire riches, spread Catholicism and bring back wealth.  This worked for them for over 300 years.

 

After just over 300 years of Spanish rule, in the early 19th century global changes began to unsettle Spanish power making way for leaders in what is now Central America to declare their independence from Spain.  In Europe, Spain was engaged in the Napoleanic wars with took their attention away from their colonies across the Atlantic.  Further, with inspiration from Enlightenment thinkers, Mexico's fight for independence from Spain, and the American colonies' independence from England, and the French Revolution, José Cecilio del Valle, a Honduran lawyer, wrote The Act of Independence document bringing together a delegation of leaders from what is now  Guatemala, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, El Salvador, and Honduras.  They gathered in Guatemala city to create and sign the Act of Independence of Guatemala and to achieve sovereignty from Spain.

Soon after this declaration of independence these countries were briefly annexed by the newly independent Mexico.  In 1823 delegates gathered again to form a federal republic- the United Provinces of Central America.  The delegates drew up a constitution that provided leadership and regional autonomy.  Overtime, conflicts arose between the separate nations; the United Provinces of Central America eventually fell apart and the leaders of each distinct nation once more declared their independence.

National celebrations today have grown and can begin before September 15th and go through the month celebrating national pride, independence, culture and heritage.

In Guatemala, in addition to parades, people may carry torches from village to village.
Independence day celebration at a primary school in El Salvador
Honduras celebrates their independence: "Honduras, My Land Live Your Independence"

To read more on this subject this article covers quite a lot: https://shunoutdoor.com/article/why-does-central-america-celebrate-independence-day

This article is for the visual learners among us: https://studylib.net/doc/10144677/independence-movement-latin-america


MUST SEE: CIUDAD PERDIDA (LOST CITY) COLUMBIA 🇨🇴

MUST SEE: CIUDAD PERDIDA

(LOST CITY) COLUMBIA 🇨🇴

Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a net of tiled roads and several small circular plazas.

Hidden deep in the jungle of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains in northern Colombia sits an archeological site called Ciudad Perdida, the “Lost City”.  Built by the Tairona people in 800AD predating Machu Pichu by over 600 years.  The Ciudad Perdida archaeological site only became an attraction after it was uncovered in the 1970s.

Los Sepúlveda was a small family of looters in Colombia; their story leads to the beginning of one of the greatest archaeological discoveries in modern times. The family went hunting in the forests of Colombia when they shot down a wild turkey. Upon retrieving the turkey, they noticed it had fallen on a piece of an exposed staircase. This staircase would lead them to find La Ciudad Perdida. For years after its discovery by the looters, “Treasures from the site, including gold figures and ceramics, soon began to appear on the black market”  Archeologists were alerted to these black market treasures and managed to, with the help of indigenous people who protect their ancestral site, trace themselves to the area in 1976.  The area was researched and reconstructed over the next 6 years.

Although La Ciudad Perdida is one of the most impressive sites, it’s not alone, only about 30-40% of the sites in the Sierra Nevada region have actually been explored. Thanks to recent widespread access, more and more of these sites are being discovered, and the search for new lost cities has just begun.

1,200 stone steps built by the Tairona.

Ciudad Perdida was probably the region’s political and manufacturing center on the Buritaca River and may have housed 2,000–8,000 people.

Named Teyuna by the Tairona but dubbed Ciudad Perdida upon rediscovery, the ancient wonder is perched on hillsides and tucked into a dense rainforest.

Lost deep in the mountains
Juan from SY Ay Caramaba ! PP2019-2020 in the – Lost City / Ciudad Perdida