ANNOUNCING: THREE SHEETS REGATTA IN THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
ANNOUNCING: THREE SHEETS REGATTA
SAILING AND PARTIES COMING UP IN THE VIRGIN ISLANDS
The organizers invite you to join them for some spectacular sailing during the Three Sheets Regatta this December.
The Three Sheets Regatta, officially organized by the Virgin Islands Sailing Association (VISA) with sponsorship from the three island yacht clubs—St. Thomas, St. Croix, and St. John—promises an unforgettable experience on the water.
This year’s regatta will feature two signature races:
- The Three Island Race
- December 6: St. John to Frederiksted, St. Croix
- December 7: Frederiksted to St. Croix Yacht Club
- December 8: St. Croix Yacht Club to St. Thomas Yacht Club
- The Around the Island Challenge
- December 6: St. Croix Yacht Club to Frederiksted
- December 7: Frederiksted to St. Croix Yacht Club
We’re particularly proud to have VISA as the official race organizer, bringing its dedication to promoting sailing in the Virgin Islands. The full support of the three major island yacht clubs adds an extra layer of community and collaboration to this year’s regatta.
You’ll get to experience the stunning Virgin Islands from the water while connecting with a vibrant community of fellow sailors.
For more details, please check out our website: www.threesheetsvi.com. If you have any questions or need assistance with arrangements, feel free to reach out—I’d be thrilled to help.
Hope to see you on the water in December!
Juliet San Martin, President
Virgin Islands Sailing Association
Teamwork makes dreams work.
Ready, Aye, Ready!
Ready, Aye, Ready!
“Ready Aye Ready” is the motto of the Canadian Navy. It implies that the Canadian Navy is always “ready”.
By Rob Murray on SV AVANT
We have been sailing Avant in Mexico and Central America for 11 years now, and one of the most common questions we get is “Do you feel safe?”
Yes, we do. We have not suffered a loss, seen a crime committed, or otherwise been bothered by crime. Ever. We do know of other cruisers that have suffered losses, though:
- Dinghy theft. (Really, it’s outboard motor theft. By far the most common loss suffered by cruisers.)
- Casual theft (thieves sneak aboard, usually when no one is aboard, and grab any valuables they can and dash off. Most common at a dock).
- Pick pockets (in Guaymas, a cruiser had her wallet stolen from her purse in the grocery store – but that could have happened anywhere in the world).
Not to say it doesn’t happen, it does. But the violent crimes that make the news in Canada and the USA do not seem to happen on the coast or where the cruising community congregates. Most if not all of the murders are gang related, and mostly gang on gang events. We take normal 21st Century precautions; we don’t walk in strange neighborhoods at night, we don’t flash wads of cash, we don’t wear expensive jewelry or watches, etc. and we have not had a problem.
There are, however, security concerns and we have taken some simple steps to protect ourselves.
You don’t need to make it impossible to be a victim, you don’t need to make it impossible for someone to steal from you. You just need to make it harder. You just need to make your boat a less inviting target than the one next door. If you have locked your boat and hoisted your dinghy and outboard out of the water, cleared valuables from the cockpit, and a neighboring boat has all their hatches open and their dinghy floating beside their boat tied on with a rope painter, guess who is more likely to be a victim? It’s like the old joke about bears, you don’t need to be able to outrun a bear, you just need to outrun the person you’re with.
The strategy we have employed for our personal security is pretty simple and pretty unobtrusive. It doesn’t impact our day to day lives by much, and we aren’t working hard to stay safe.
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- Lock the boat, and tidy up. Simple. Free. Easy. When we’re away from the boat for a while, whether at the dock or at anchor, we lock the boat. Close and latch the hatches. Even if we haven’t seen another human being for days. We also have the means to lock ourselves in the boat, in the event we feel threatened and think that’s the safest option (boats with the hatches locked by padlocks may not have the means to do this, but it’s pretty easy to add an internal barrel bolt or similar lock). We changed out our lovely louvered wooden companionway boards for a simple sheet of plexiglass, far more resistant to being kicked in or carved open with a knife or chisel. We don’t stow anything within reach of the portlights we usually leave open. We stow winch handles and other deck gear below as appropriate when anchored or at the dock, and don’t leave things sitting around on deck or in the cockpit. We also lock the computer at the navigation station to the boat with a computer cable lock.
- Hide stuff. In the event someone does get aboard, we have some of our valuables and some spare cash hidden. We use a variety of means, including ‘diversion safes’ (food cans, boxes or jars, varnish or paint cans or bottles, hollowed out books, etc., that disguise a secret compartment to stash valuables in). These can be purchased or home made (paint the inside of an old mayonnaise jar white, and there you go!). More than one is a good idea, in various places around the boat. The downside is they can be taken as they are portable. Don’t use a WD-40 can as a diversion safe in your tool bag, as they may take the whole bag!
- Secret compartments/ hidey-holes. False drawer or locker bottoms, behind velcroed-on cabinet fronts or vinyl trim, envelopes taped behind or under drawers, the inside of the paper towel roller, shower curtain rod or toilet paper roller, false electric sockets, the inside of hollow closet rods, and other strategies can be employed.
- Use decoys. We have a ‘muggers wallet’ prepared and left in plain sight on the navigation station, next to the companionway. A muggers wallet is a decoy wallet, an old, used one filled with expired credit cards and identification, receipts and small denomination bills of assorted currencies. The hope is a sneak thief will come aboard, see and seize the wallet and dash off, satisfied they have ‘scored’, while truly valuable goods remain unmolested.
- Have backups. We have backup credit and ATM cards, connected to a separate bank account at a different bank from our primaries, safely stashed aboard. If our primary cards are lost, compromised or stolen, or if our primary bank has a bad hair day in the computer department, we can dig out the backups and be good to go until replacements can be sourced or the accounts reactivated.
- Know what’s there. We take pictures of our passports and the contents of our wallets and the interior of the boat and email them to ourselves so we have a record that we can access from any computer on the internet if they are lost.
- Be ready with active deterrents. In the extremely unlikely event we meet serious thieves intent on a face to face encounter and committing a violent crime against us, we are ready to meet the threat (at least with bravado). We have:
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- Heavy flashlights (3 cell D battery Maglites) mounted in clips next to the companionway and our berth. As well as being handy, blinding flashlights, these make great clubs.
- Fire extinguishers will discharge a large cloud of fine white dust that can disorient and confuse bad guys.
- Machetes. We have a couple of machetes aboard, stored in a locker where they can be reached quickly and waved around to make a show of resistance. Easily seen from a distance, waving machetes is a distinctly unwelcoming gesture in every culture. Machetes are inexpensive and readily available in hardware stores. They can also be used to open coconuts.
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- Baseball bat. We also have a t-ball bat (mini baseball bat), which doubles as a fish bonker.
- Flares. We have a white handheld flare mounted in clips in the companionway. In the event we are intercepted at sea or boarded at anchor, we can light it and toss it in an attacker’s boat. We don’t have a flare gun aboard, but one might be useful. Be aware that the flare shot from a flare gun will not light until the flare has burned for a while (they are designed to light in the air, not as they are discharged). They are not particularly powerful, and the flares with their propellant tend to bounce off what they hit. The muzzle energy of a 12g flare gun is less than that of a 22 caliber rifle and it is unlikely to penetrate just about anything due to its wide nosed projectile. Any damage it may cause will be due to the flare itself burning. Flare guns may also be illegal in certain jurisdictions (and if used in an offensive or defensive manner as a weapon, are considered weapons or firearms under the laws of many countries).
- We have Bear Spray aboard, too (while wasp spray is often suggested as a deterrent, apparently it is largely ineffective).
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- (Note: In most countries south of the USA, Mace, Dog and Bear Sprays are illegal, but we’re living on the edge).
- We keep our VHF on 24/7, and keep a handheld next to our berth, so we can raise an alarm with other cruisers (or heed their call) if we feel unsafe.
All of these strategies are designed around the idea that you don’t have to make it impossible to be attacked, you just have to make it unpleasant for would-be attackers, encouraging them to look elsewhere or take the rest of the day or night off.
Dinghy Outboard Theft
This is, by far, the most common loss suffered by cruisers. An outboard is a very valuable item in a fishing community, and all coastal villages are fishing communities. A simple 8-10 hp outboard can increase a fisherman’s ability to feed his family tenfold by allowing him to get further offshore when fishing. We always hip-hoist our dinghy at night, and do so with a wire cable harness with legs long enough to be far above reach, where they are attached to the halyard snap shackle, even when standing on deck (so a would-be thief can’t simply release the shackle and drop the dinghy). We lock the outboard to the dinghy’s transom with a heavy stainless lock, and use the same lock to lock the motor to the rail mount when it is stored aboard. We employ locals (usually children or the proprietors of beachfront restaurants) as watch keepers whenever possible when leaving the dinghy ashore, and use a long stainless cable to secure the dinghy ashore when it’s in an isolated or unsupervised location.
We don’t really notice that we’re doing these things on a day to day basis, they are just ‘habits or ‘housekeeping’. But we feel that these measures collectively decrease our chance of being victims (and losses if we are), as well as increase our ability to bounce back should we be targeted.
EDITORS NOTE:
Additionally, there is a huge resource in the Caribbean Safety and Security Net available for private cruising vessels. Their website is extensive and their incident reports are kept up to date. Their guidelines for precautions are applicable across all oceans.
https://safetyandsecuritynet.org/regional-piracy-infographics/
https://safetyandsecuritynet.org/piracy-passage-precautions-central-america/
STAY SAFE - STAY ALERT - HAVE FUN
CARIBBEAN LAP REPORT SV JUBEL
SV JUBEL'S CARIBBEAN LAP
SV JUBEL just finished their 1 year lap around the Caribbean. BRAVO ZULU! Here they share their story:
We are currently in progress building an HH44 Catamaran in Cebu, Philippines, which will be completed in January 2026. It's our plan to cross the Pacific to meet the boat so we can move aboard directly from JUBEL. But we didn’t come all this way from Vancouver island to skip the Caribbean. Having crossed the (Panama) Canal in September 2023, we spent some time in Bocas del Toro, the San Blas, Panama, and Cartagena, Columbia. Knowing we wanted to see the Caribbean, we decided to do a speed loop of the Windward and Leeward Islands.
The trip started from Cartagena, Colombia and we set off for Puerto Rico, or maybe the DR, on March 26th, 2024. We didn’t know where we would end up. We had heard this passage was notoriously bad, and that we may have to divert westward. So loaded with 8 extra jerry cans of diesel, we set off, along with our friends on SV VIA, a Caliber 40LRC (that holds 400+ gallons of diesel!) This trip was exactly what they say it was. We motored for 700 miles, into the wind and the waves. At times doing 3 knots. We broke our davits due to the constant slamming into the waves. We also had some flat calm days. Overall, we sailed about 10 hours out of the entire 6 days.
We ended up in Boquerón, Puerto Rico. We spent time cruising Puerto Rico for a month along the southern side of Puerto Rico, and flew home in (to Canada) in May. Our highlights are Isla Caja De Muertos, where you can hike up to the top of an abandoned lighthouse, and Isla Culebra for its snorkeling and coral farms, and of course, Costco in San Juan.
With our boat loaded with a years worth of Costco supplies in Puerto Rico we made our way to the USVI’s where it was a surprise that they drive on the opposite side of the road. We spent a few days in St. Thomas, of course, stopping at the pizza boat where we attended a massive memorial day party hosted on a catamaran while we floated in the water.
A few days on the northern side of St. Johns before making our way to the BVIs. We have a dog on board so this was pretty difficult to sort out, as you have to have a lot of paperwork and health check proofs. We met the vet in Soper’s hole where he had to inspect Ricky, our dog, in person. Once that was dealt with we made our way to pussers for a rum! This was the first island we considered “the Caribbean”, and we made it!
We spent three weeks bouncing around the BVIs including Norman Island (and the infamous Willy Ts, where we floated behind it in our Sunchill, met friends, and had beers thrown into our pool!
Anchoring at the Baths, (where our engine died coming into the anchorage, that turned out to be ricky leaning on the shutoff button!), and spending time in Virgin Gorda was also great. Our favorite anchorages were Savannah bay, and the north side of Prickly Pear Island. Having the Rum Runner bring us blended cocktails right to our boat was (also) a highlight, along with visits to Saba Rock.
From The BVIs we checked out and headed to St. Martin, stopping at the French side first. The beaches here were phenomenal. While a little run down, its very pretty, and the French food supply is amazing. We had FKG rigging come out to the boat by dinghy to give us an estimate for the standing rigging replacement that we needed. They gave us a very, very reasonable estimate and we headed over to their dock on the dutch side to have the work done. A week later, everything was brand new. Highly recommend them! We also had a new generator motor shipped here and replaced that, as our previous one had water ingress due to a manufacturing defect. St. Maarten is an amazing location for boat work and supply, especially since its all tax free. There are also great restaurants here, where we met up with some other Young Cruisers and talked shop, so we will definitely come back at some point. St. Maarten is a hit on our list!
Our next stop was Guadeloupe. It was here that we rode out hurricane Beryl. On the west side of the island behind the mountain, we set out a 10-1 scope in 20 feet of water. Luckily (for us, certainly not the islands south of us) it headed south. We were hit with 35 knots of wind and a ton of rain, but otherwise, unscathed. After the weather cleared, the view was beautiful.
We worked our way down Guadeloupe, and anchored in some very rolly anchorages - There is not much for protection on this side of the island. We stopped in several hot springs and enjoyed the natural hot water that comes out all over the island. After an absolutely brutal sail crossing from Guadeloupe to Terre-de-Haut, a group of small islands south of Guadeloupe, we went to explore and island and old fort. There is a really cute little town (but not much for food available) that you can explore.
From there we made our way to the jewel of the Caribbean, Dominica. I can not say enough about this place. It is, by far, our favourite locale in the caribbean. Absolutely untouched and unspoiled. There were no tourists, the locals were the friendliest people we have ever met, and would do anything for you. The natural beauty of this island is absolutely stunning.Waterfalls, valleys, hot springs, gorges - It has it all.
What it doesn’t have are services, restaurants, fuel docks, or supply shops. You are on your own. So bring what you need, and stay as long as you can. We grabbed a mooring ball in Portsmouth bay for $10 a night, where the PAY (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) will come out to the boat and give you anything you need, and help you check in. We rented a car from a local company (that we had to swap out three times because they were not in great shape - Old cars imported from Japan), they also drive on the British side of the road (in Dominica). Its like driving in the game “crazy taxi”. We drove all over the island over 5 days.
We went to visit Titou gorge where they filmed parts of the Pirates of the Caribbean
Overall, Dominica gets a 10/10 for us. We will be back to this island before our cruising career is over. Its got so much to offer, and so much that we haven’t seen, for a small island. Our provisions were running low so it was time to carry on. We made our way to Martinique from here, where we knew we could provision. And provision we did. Wine, cheese, butter, oh my. The French have food nailed down. We were here during a summer festival and I have never seen so many boats on the move, ever.
Martinique was the busiest place we’d ever been. The bays were full, with hundreds if not thousands of boats. It was way too busy for us. And they’re very not dog friendly. So after we provisioned, we carried on down to Grenada. We skipped St. Lucia for safety concerns, and therefore had to skip St. Vincent and the Grenadines due to our dog and rabies rules. That, and its been hit hard by Beryl at this point.
Grenada became our home for about a month and a half while we waited for hurricane season to subside slightly. The next stop after this was Bonaire, so hurricanes weren’t a big concern. We met up with friends, enjoyed copious wing nights, went snorkeling, and hauled out because we had won a free haul out from Spice Island Marine at the Young Cruisers Association Cruisers Awards. We were here for Carnival which was amazing.
We had tried out all the anchorages and there was a weather window coming. It was September at this point, so it was time to carry on to Bonaire. After a sporty 3 day sail downwind (oh how nice it was to go downwind finally, after beating our way east all the way to Dominica), we arrived in Bonaire. The water clarity blew our minds.
However, the lack of Starlink was frustrating after having it for so long. So back to a cell phone data plan we went, we spent our days snorkeling and swimming. We rented a car and drove around the whole island, stopping to feed the roadside donkeys apples and carrots.
Bonaire was definitely another highlight. The freediving and snorkeling is amazing. Its everything its cracked up to be.
We skipped Curacao and headed to Aruba to meet friends and for my parents to fly in. We loved Aruba - Dove on a shipwreck, swam with turtles, went out to fantastic restaurants, played some slot machines, had some pool days at the Hyatt pool, and even found a Canadian bar that had Poutine and took Canadian money!
Now here we are in Cartagena once again, having crossed our track when we left 8 months ago, so very happy we traveled where we did and saw what we saw. The experiences will stick with us forever, and we hope to go back to some of the islands once again in the future. Now, its time to go back to San Blas one more time before we prepare for our grand adventure across the Pacific!
SY JUBEL 🇨🇦 Leah & Kyle - Gulfstar 44'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR HIGHLIGHTS FROM YOUR 8 MONTH CARIBBEAN LOOP
MUST SEE: La Fortaleza & San Juan National Historic Site, Puerto Rico
MUST SEE: La Fortaleza &
San Juan National Historic Site, Puerto Rico
La Fortaleza and San Juan National Historic Site are significant landmarks in San Juan, Puerto Rico, showcasing the island's rich history and colonial heritage. La Fortaleza & San Juan National Historic Site serve as a reminder of Puerto Rico’s role as one of the earliest and last bastions of Spanish dominance in the Americas. Visiting this MUST SEE UNESCO site by boat is best from San Juan Bay.
San Juan Bay is a significant harbor and anchorage point on the north side of Puerto Rico,, known for its deep waters and natural protection. It serves as a popular spot for both commercial and recreational vessels. The bay is surrounded by historic sites, such as La Fortaleza, El Morro and San Cristóbal forts, and offers beautiful views of the city and surrounding areas.
La Fortaleza
La Fortaleza, also known as the Governor's Palace, is the oldest executive mansion in continuous use in the Americas. Built between 1533 and 1540 by order of the Spanish king, Charles V, it served as a fortress to protect the city from pirates and corsairs. In 1846, La Fortaleza was remodeled to become the official residence of the governor. The remodeling was designed by the Spanish architect Fernando Trueba, and the building was given a neoclassical style.
La Fortaleza has been the official residence of 170 governors of Puerto Rico and now stands as the oldest executive residence in the Western Hemisphere. It is a historical and cultural landmark of great importance to the island. In 1983, it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as part of the “La Fortaleza and San Juan National Historic Site”.
San Juan National Historic Site
This historic site encompasses several key components, including the forts of El Morro and San Cristóbal, which were built to defend the city from maritime attacks.
- Fortifications:
- Castillo San Felipe del Morro: A 16th-century fortress that offers stunning views of the ocean and the city. It played a crucial role in the defense of San Juan.
- Castillo San Cristóbal: Built in the 18th century, this fortification was designed to protect against land attacks and is the largest fort built by the Spanish in the Americas.
Both La Fortaleza and the San Juan National Historic Site reflect the historical significance of Puerto Rico in the context of Spanish colonial rule and military strategy in the Caribbean. They are vital for understanding the island's past and its cultural heritage.
MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS
MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious
Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world. Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents. Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe. Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.
There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris). No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales. The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons. Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells. The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'. Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.
As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras. The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy. Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned. In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies. One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned. It's a win-win! Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.
Manta rays live up to 50 years. The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age. Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!). Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years. Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.
Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world. In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom. In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon. In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune. Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.
Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways. Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.). In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine. It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.
Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them. Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them. However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.
According to Mantatrust.org :
Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it.
....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.
Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts. People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.
If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish. Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.
PASSAGE REPORT TO PANAMA FROM COLUMBIA
PASSAGE REPORT TO PANAMA FROM COLUMBIA:
with Check-In Procedure at El Porvenir
Recently, SV ATARAXIA sailed from northern Columbia to Panama. They wanted to visit a very unique and special part of Panama: the Guna Yala Archipelago, also known as the San Blas Islands before. The Archipelago is in northeastern Panamanian waters and is home to the Guna (or Kuna) Yala people, the largest Panamanian indigenous group. The archipelago is known for being a jewel of Panama with palm covered islands amid clear turquoise water.
SV ATARAXIA wanted to visit this archipelago upon entering Panamanian waters pushing on to the more formal and bustling city of Colon on Panama's mainland, at the northern end of the Panama Canal. Below Skipper Ludwig shares from his passage notes their experience entering Panama through El Porvenir:
Well, we were right : you should have come. Guna Yala is really beautiful.
We left Cartagena de Indias, Colombia 2 days ago and last night was a pretty calm night. We sailed under main alone and we still were making good enough speed that we had to turn a circle at sea before entering El Porvenir, allowing us to come in during daylight.
We anchored and went ashore to ask where immigration was. El Porvenir is in fact just 1 airstrip for small planes and that explains why there is immigration. But first you need to visit the Comarca Guna Yala congresso office to pay to the indigenous people that own these islands for a ‘cruising permit’, something like an entry fee for paradise. Then it is on to the immigration office. Given there are only 2 buildings or rather structures, it wasn’t all that difficult to find even if you hadn’t slept much the previous night.
When it was finally our turn to be cleared in, all we needed was some extra photocopies (conveniently available at the congresso for 50 cts) and we got our immigration stamps. What about customs? “Go and do that in Colon” we were told. OK, nothing can be perfect not even in paradise.
Noonsite says that you can clear immigration in El Porvenir, and indeed they do. They stamp both your passport and your exit zarpe from Colombia. It looks like a stamp is the only thing they have, so they do not produce any paper, they just....stamp. We had our agent, Erick Galvez request a cruising permit for us beforehand. In fact, we set that in motion a month before arriving in Panama. It still wasn't ready when we got to El Porvenir, an unusual slow process that has since (we were there early June 2024) been sped up. Either way, we were assured by every instance be it official or non-official that our immigration stamps were really the critical ones and we had those! We received our cruising permit while we were back in the USA and our boat on the hard. While this sounds 'different' from other places, to the Panamanians it seemed pretty obvious. And every single official was friendly, ...and so were we.
While we were anchoring at first light, 2 canoes with Guna women were paddling towards us. We had some trouble finding the right spot to anchor and so these ladies had their rowing workout cut out for them, chasing ATARAXIA.
It is not my preferred thing to do, bartering over molas or other stuff after being awake for half a night, but it was clear these ladies were not going to give up, so we have some very nice molas already to fly home with us.
Then we moved the boat to Lemon Cays, one of these smaller archipelagoes where all the islands end in ‘dup’ (Bandup, Nuriandup or some other tongue twister). Upon arrival we were greeted by a canoe with 3 fishermen who held up a lobster in the international language of trade. We signaled to hold off a bit so that we could anchor but once that was out of the way, we bought 4 lobster for 5USD per piece. We didn’t even try to get a lower price. With that, you know what Louis, our crew-chef is working on right now.
Time for the restless to go and explore the underwater world and they came back with all the wonderful things they saw including a shark (a real one, not a nurse shark). While they were doing that, I stayed back to defend the fort, hey someone got to do it, and sure enough we were invaded by a clever bird that flew into the cabin, picked open the plastic packaging of a baguette and decided those baguettes are really good. I agreed and therefore I chased him away. We want to eat that baguette (at least the other part of it).
We intend to stay 2 nights here in this anchorage as there is a lot more to explore.
SV ATARAXIA 
Ludwig – Etap Yachting 46’
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE LUDWIG!
MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park, Dominica
MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park,
Dominica 🇩🇲
Morne Trois Pitons National Park is on the Island of Dominica in the southeastern Caribbean Sea. The volcanic island is quite heavily forested and mountainous, rich in water and fertile soil, and still has a number of (rarely) active volcanoes, volcanic vents, bubbling mud ponds, and hot springs. The National Park was established by the Dominican government in 1975 and made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 for its uniquely stunning geologic (volcanic) formations, its biodiversity, and its huge stores of water. Nearly all the headwaters of the streams and rivers that hydrate and power the southern half of the Island begin in Morne Trois Pitons National Park.
The National Park encompasses a lake called Boiling Lake, so named for the gasses that bubble from beneath it and keep the water temperature to over 95 degrees Celsius. The mountainous landscape is punctuated by three main peaks (hence Trois Pitons) that are steep and rugged with waterfalls, freshwater lakes, and a huge variety of flaura and fauna, several endemic to Dominica.
Preserving Wildlife is important to this Island nation that considers nature prime importance to their survival and food security. In addition to abundant fruit, The Mountain Chicken frog was once considered the nation's unofficial national dish. A decline in their numbers led to conservation efforts including hunting season regulations and scientific attention. However, no amount of regulations can hold back mother nature and both a soil borne fungus and a volcanic eruption resulted in significant reduction in many amphibious animals including the Mountain Chicken. Therefore, in spite of conservation efforts, their species numbers have continued to decline and they are on the brink of extinction. As of November 2023 scientists believe there were 30 known Mountain Chicken Frogs left.
There is hope in that Dominica has actually made tremendous strides that offer hope to the survival of the species identifying genes of resiliency that can be treated to eliminate the fungus illness in the frogs. Time will tell.
SABA 🇳🇱 CRUISING THE CARIBBEAN WITH THE OCEAN POSSE
SABA 🇳🇱
Tucked away in the northeastern Caribbean, Saba Island is one of the most remarkable yet lesser-known destinations in this region. As a captain, steering towards this volcanic peak rising from the ocean is an experience that evokes both anticipation and admiration. Saba, often referred to as the “Unspoiled Queen,” is part of the Netherlands Antilles and offers a pristine and authentic Caribbean experience that’s becoming increasingly rare in the region.
Approaching Saba: A Test of Skill
Navigating to Saba requires precision and respect for the island’s unique topography and weather patterns. The island, with its steep cliffs and lack of natural harbors, is not for the faint-hearted or the inexperienced mariner. Approaching from the southeast, you’ll be greeted by the towering Mount Scenery, a dormant volcano that is the highest point in the Netherlands. The island’s coastline is rugged, with waves crashing against sharp rocks and the occasional black sand beach peeking through the cliffs.
Given its small size—just five square miles—Saba is surrounded by deep waters. This means that the approach to Saba requires careful attention to charts, weather conditions, and tidal movements. The island lacks extensive coral reefs or sandbanks that many Caribbean sailors might be used to, which simplifies navigation but requires a cautious approach due to the steep underwater drop-offs close to shore.
Mooring at Saba
The island’s only official point of entry for vessels is Fort Bay, located on the southwestern coast. Fort Bay is a small and practical harbor, home to a few commercial docks and a handful of mooring buoys maintained by the local government. Because of the island’s rugged coastline, anchoring is not allowed, and visitors must use one of these buoys. It’s advisable to contact the harbor in advance to ensure availability, especially during peak season.
Mooring here is a skillful task, given the potential for strong currents and winds funneled between the cliffs. The bay is protected, but not immune to the surge from the open sea, making it imperative to check the weather forecast before arrival. Once securely moored, the first breath you take is a combination of relief and awe—the beauty of Saba lies in its untouched wilderness and the sense of remoteness that permeates the air.
Onshore Experience: A Journey Back in Time
Stepping ashore in Saba feels like entering a different era. The island’s four quaint villages—The Bottom, Windwardside, St. Johns, and Zion’s Hill—are connected by narrow, winding roads that cling to the steep slopes. These roads were constructed by hand by the island’s residents, a testament to their resilience and dedication. For captains and their crews, the exploration of these villages is a must.
The Bottom, the island’s capital, is the most accessible from Fort Bay. It’s a small, picturesque town with red-roofed houses, lush gardens, and friendly locals who greet visitors with a warmth that’s becoming rare in more commercialized parts of the Caribbean. Despite its name, The Bottom sits at an elevation of about 800 feet above sea level, offering panoramic views of the surrounding ocean.
Windwardside, located further up the slopes, is another highlight. This village is the heart of Saba’s tourism, where you’ll find small hotels, charming guesthouses, and a handful of restaurants offering local cuisine. The Saba lacework, a traditional craft passed down through generations, is a unique souvenir that visitors can take home as a reminder of this tranquil island.
Hiking and Exploration: The Crown Jewel of Saba
For those who enjoy the great outdoors, Saba is a paradise. The island’s rugged terrain offers some of the best hiking in the Caribbean. The crown jewel of Saba’s hiking trails is the climb to the summit of Mount Scenery. At 2,910 feet, it’s the highest point in the Dutch Kingdom, and the trail to the top is a challenge that rewards you with breathtaking views. The trail is well-marked but steep, with 1,064 steps leading through dense rainforest to the summit. On a clear day, you can see the neighboring islands of St. Eustatius, St. Kitts, and even St. Barths.
For captains and crew members looking to stretch their legs after days at sea, this hike is a perfect way to immerse yourself in Saba’s natural beauty. The island’s flora and fauna are remarkable, with over 200 species of plants and a rich diversity of birdlife. The trail to Mount Scenery is often shrouded in mist, adding a mystical quality to the journey.
Diving in Saba: A Subaqueous Adventure
Beyond the surface, Saba is renowned for its exceptional diving opportunities. The Saba Marine Park, established in 1987, surrounds the island and offers some of the most pristine dive sites in the Caribbean. The island’s volcanic origins have created a unique underwater landscape of pinnacles, coral gardens, and steep drop-offs.
One of the most famous dive sites is the Pinnacles, a series of underwater mountains that rise dramatically from the ocean floor. These pinnacles are teeming with marine life, from colorful coral formations to large schools of tropical fish, sharks, and rays. For experienced divers, the thrill of exploring these deep-water sites is unparalleled.
As a captain, facilitating a diving excursion for your crew or guests is an opportunity to showcase the hidden wonders of Saba. Local dive shops, such as Sea Saba and Saba Divers, offer guided dives and equipment rentals. It’s important to coordinate with these operators in advance, as diving in Saba requires adherence to strict environmental guidelines to protect the fragile marine ecosystem.
The Allure of Isolation
One of the most striking aspects of Saba is its sense of isolation. Unlike other Caribbean islands, where tourism is a dominant force, Saba has remained largely untouched by mass tourism. There are no large resorts, no bustling beaches, and no shopping malls. Instead, you’ll find an island that moves at its own pace, where the natural environment and the local culture are deeply intertwined.
For captains and sailors, this sense of isolation is both a challenge and a reward. Saba is a place where you can disconnect from the outside world, where the only sounds are the wind in the trees and the waves against the rocks. It’s a place that invites introspection and a deeper connection with the sea.
Practical Considerations for Visiting Captains
While Saba’s charm lies in its remoteness, this also means that certain practical considerations must be taken into account. Provisioning on the island is limited, so it’s essential to stock up on supplies before arrival. Fuel is available at Fort Bay, but it’s recommended to refuel at a larger port before heading to Saba.
Communication can also be a challenge. While the island has decent cellular coverage, internet access can be slow and unreliable. For captains who rely on digital navigation tools and weather updates, it’s wise to download necessary data before approaching the island.
Lastly, it’s important to respect the local regulations, particularly those related to environmental protection. Saba’s government and residents are committed to preserving the island’s natural beauty, and visiting sailors are expected to do their part. This includes proper waste disposal, adherence to mooring guidelines, and respecting the marine park’s no-anchor zones.
Departure: Leaving the Unspoiled Queen
Departing from Saba is a bittersweet experience. As you release the mooring and navigate away from the island’s dramatic coastline, there’s a sense of having discovered a place that few others have. Saba’s rugged beauty, its welcoming communities, and its unspoiled nature leave a lasting impression on those who venture to its shores.
For a captain, Saba is more than just a stopover; it’s a destination that challenges your skills, enriches your journey, and reminds you of the simple, untamed beauty that the Caribbean can still offer. As the island fades into the horizon, there’s a quiet understanding that Saba will remain one of those rare places—a true gem of the sea, cherished by those who have had the privilege to experience it.
In the end, Saba is a testament to the enduring allure of the sea and the islands that rise from it. It’s a place where the spirit of exploration lives on, where the call of the ocean meets the whispers of the wind, and where a captain can find not just a destination, but a profound connection to the world and its wonders.
MARINAS
Saba is a unique destination in the Caribbean due to its rugged terrain and lack of natural harbors, which limits the availability of traditional marinas. The island has only one official point of entry and limited facilities for yachts and boats:
1. Fort Bay Harbor
- Location: 17°37’36.0″N 63°14’13.0″W
- Description: Fort Bay Harbor is the only port and official entry point for vessels on Saba. It is located on the southwestern side of the island. The harbor primarily serves commercial and government vessels but provides limited services for visiting yachts. The harbor is small and can accommodate only a few vessels at a time. Mooring buoys are available in the harbor for visiting boats, as anchoring is not allowed due to the steep underwater drop-offs and to protect the marine environment.
- Facilities: The facilities are minimal, with basic services available, including fuel, water, and customs/immigration clearance. There is a small pier for loading and unloading supplies. However, there are no extensive marina facilities such as repair services or chandlery.
- Contact Information: It’s recommended to contact the harbor authorities in advance to arrange for mooring and entry procedures. Saba’s Marine Park Office also assists with mooring information and regulations.
Key Considerations:
- Mooring: Due to the limited space and facilities, it’s essential to secure a mooring buoy ahead of time, especially during peak seasons. Anchoring is prohibited around the island to protect the coral reefs and marine environment.
- Provisioning: Saba has limited resources, so it’s advisable to provision before arrival. There are a few small grocery stores on the island, but options are limited.
- Fuel: Available at Fort Bay Harbor, but supply can be limited, so plan accordingly.
- Customs and Immigration: All vessels must check in at Fort Bay Harbor, where customs and immigration procedures can be completed.
WEATHER
MAIN LOCAL WEATHER WEBSITE SABA 🇳🇱
SEVERE WEATHER SABA 🇳🇱
PILOT CHARTS
PORTS OF ENTRY
Saba is a unique destination in the Caribbean due to its rugged terrain and lack of natural harbors, which limits the availability of traditional marinas. The island has only one official point of entry and limited facilities for yachts and boats:
1. Fort Bay Harbor
- Location: 17°37’36.0″N 63°14’13.0″W
- Description: Fort Bay Harbor is the only port and official entry point for vessels on Saba. It is located on the southwestern side of the island. The harbor primarily serves commercial and government vessels but provides limited services for visiting yachts. The harbor is small and can accommodate only a few vessels at a time. Mooring buoys are available in the harbor for visiting boats, as anchoring is not allowed due to the steep underwater drop-offs and to protect the marine environment.
- Facilities: The facilities are minimal, with basic services available, including fuel, water, and customs/immigration clearance. There is a small pier for loading and unloading supplies. However, there are no extensive marina facilities such as repair services or chandlery.
- Contact Information: It’s recommended to contact the harbor authorities in advance to arrange for mooring and entry procedures. Saba’s Marine Park Office also assists with mooring information and regulations.
Key Considerations:
- Mooring: Due to the limited space and facilities, it’s essential to secure a mooring buoy ahead of time, especially during peak seasons. Anchoring is prohibited around the island to protect the coral reefs and marine environment.
- Provisioning: Saba has limited resources, so it’s advisable to provision before arrival. There are a few small grocery stores on the island, but options are limited.
- Fuel: Available at Fort Bay Harbor, but supply can be limited, so plan accordingly.
- Customs and Immigration: All vessels must check in at Fort Bay Harbor, where customs and immigration procedures can be completed.
MUST SEE
1. Mount Scenery
- Location: 17°37’31.2″N 63°14’50.4″W
- Description: Mount Scenery, standing at 2,910 feet, is the highest point in the Netherlands and the Caribbean. This dormant volcano offers one of the most rewarding hikes in the region. The trail leading to the summit starts in Windwardside and takes you through lush rainforests filled with exotic flora and fauna. As you ascend the 1,064 steps, you’ll be enveloped in a mystical cloud forest. The summit, often shrouded in mist, offers breathtaking views on clear days, with sights extending to neighboring islands like St. Eustatius and St. Kitts. This hike is a must for any nature lover or adventurer visiting Saba.
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to hike Mount Scenery is during the dry season, from December to April, when the trail is less slippery, and the weather is cooler.
2. Saba Marine Park
- Location: 17°37’24.0″N 63°14’06.0″W
- Description: Established in 1987, the Saba Marine Park surrounds the entire island and is a sanctuary for marine life. The park is renowned for its pristine dive sites, including the famous Pinnacles, underwater mountains that rise from the deep ocean floor. The park’s clear waters, healthy coral reefs, and abundant marine species make it a diver’s paradise. Whether you’re diving or snorkeling, you’ll encounter vibrant coral gardens, tropical fish, sea turtles, and even sharks. The park is meticulously maintained, with strict regulations to preserve its beauty for future generations.
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Saba Marine Park is from December to May, when sea conditions are calm, and visibility is at its best.
3. The Bottom
- Location: 17°37’45.6″N 63°14’49.2″W
- Description: The Bottom is the quaint capital of Saba, nestled in a valley surrounded by steep hills. This village is the administrative heart of the island and home to Saba University School of Medicine. Its charming red-roofed houses, manicured gardens, and friendly locals give The Bottom a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Key sites include the historic Dutch Reformed Church, built in 1919, and the Saba Archaeological Center, which offers insights into the island’s rich history. The Bottom is a perfect place to start your exploration of Saba and to experience the island’s unique culture and community.
- Best Time to Visit: The Bottom can be visited year-round, but the dry season from December to April offers more comfortable weather for exploring the village.
4. Windwardside
- Location: 17°37’54.0″N 63°13’59.4″W
- Description: Windwardside is one of the most picturesque villages on Saba, perched high on the slopes of Mount Scenery. This vibrant village is the heart of Saba’s tourism, with charming guesthouses, restaurants, and shops selling local crafts such as Saba lace. Windwardside offers stunning views of the surrounding hills and ocean, and it’s the starting point for many of the island’s hiking trails. Notable sites include the Saba Museum, which showcases the island’s cultural heritage, and the trailhead for the Mount Scenery hike. Windwardside is the perfect base for exploring the natural and cultural treasures of Saba.
- Best Time to Visit: Visit Windwardside from December to April, when the weather is cooler, and the skies are clear, offering the best views.
5. Tide Pools at Flat Point
- Location: 17°38’06.0″N 63°14’10.8″W
- Description: The Tide Pools at Flat Point offer a unique opportunity to explore Saba’s volcanic coastline. These natural pools are formed by the ocean’s waves crashing into the rocky shore, creating isolated pools filled with marine life. Exploring the tide pools is a fascinating experience, especially during low tide when the pools are more accessible. The pools are teeming with small fish, crabs, and other sea creatures, making it a great spot for nature enthusiasts and photographers. The dramatic backdrop of the cliffs and the sound of the ocean create a serene, otherworldly atmosphere.
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit the tide pools is during low tide and calm seas, which are most common from December to April.
6. Ladder Bay
- Location: 17°38’15.0″N 63°14’52.8″W
- Description: Ladder Bay is a historic site on Saba’s western coast, where goods and people were once transported to and from the island before Fort Bay Harbor was constructed. The “Ladder” refers to the steep set of stone steps carved into the cliff, leading from the bay to the village above. Although the climb is challenging, the views from the top are spectacular. The bay itself is a popular spot for snorkeling and diving, offering clear waters and an abundance of marine life. Ladder Bay is a place where history and nature converge, providing a glimpse into Saba’s past and its natural beauty.
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit Ladder Bay is from December to April, when the seas are calm, making it easier to explore the bay’s underwater treasures.
7. Troy Hill
- Location: 17°38’30.0″N 63°13’54.0″W
- Description: Troy Hill is a lesser-known but equally captivating spot on Saba. Located near the village of Hell’s Gate, this hill offers panoramic views of the island’s northern coastline and the neighboring island of St. Eustatius. The hike to Troy Hill is moderate, taking you through Saba’s lush, unspoiled landscapes. Along the way, you’ll encounter diverse plant life and may spot some of the island’s resident bird species. At the summit, you’re rewarded with a sense of tranquility and awe as you take in the sweeping views of the Caribbean Sea and the surrounding islands.
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to hike Troy Hill is during the dry season, from December to April, when the trail is in its best condition.
SERVICES & REPAIRS
given its small size and rugged terrain, has limited marine services compared to larger Caribbean islands. However, the island does offer essential services for visiting yachts and boats, particularly in and around Fort Bay Harbor, the main point of entry for vessels. Here’s an overview of the marine services available on Saba:
1. Mooring Buoys
- Location: Fort Bay Harbor, 17°37’36.0″N 63°14’13.0″W
- Description: Due to the steep underwater drop-offs around Saba, anchoring is prohibited. Instead, the island provides several mooring buoys in Fort Bay Harbor for visiting yachts. These moorings are well-maintained and suitable for vessels of varying sizes. It’s advisable to contact the harbor in advance to ensure availability, especially during peak season.
2. Fuel and Water
- Location: Fort Bay Harbor
- Description: Fuel is available at Fort Bay Harbor, though the supply can sometimes be limited, so it’s recommended to refuel before arriving in Saba. Water is also available at the harbor, but visitors should be mindful that water is a precious resource on the island, especially during the dry season.
3. Customs and Immigration Services
- Location: Fort Bay Harbor
- Description: All vessels must check in at Fort Bay Harbor, where customs and immigration services are available. The office is located near the dock, and the process is straightforward, with officials typically available during standard business hours. It’s recommended to have all necessary documentation ready, including passports, vessel registration, and crew lists.
4. Marine Park Regulations and Services
- Location: Saba Marine Park Office, Fort Bay Harbor
- Description: The Saba Marine Park office, located near Fort Bay, provides information and services related to the marine environment. This includes issuing permits for diving and providing guidelines on the use of mooring buoys. The park is highly protected, so all activities must comply with regulations designed to preserve the marine ecosystem.
5. Provisions and Supplies
- Location: Various small shops in The Bottom and Windwardside
- Description: Saba has a few small grocery stores in The Bottom and Windwardside where basic provisions can be purchased. However, given the limited supply, it’s advisable to stock up on essentials before arriving on the island. Specialty items and extensive provisions may not be available.
6. Waste Disposal
- Location: Fort Bay Harbor
- Description: Waste disposal services are available at Fort Bay Harbor, but visitors are expected to follow strict guidelines to protect the island’s environment. Recycling and proper waste management are emphasized, and all visitors are encouraged to minimize their environmental impact.
7. Diving Services
- Location: Windwardside
- Description: Saba is renowned for its diving, and there are a few dive shops, such as Sea Saba and Saba Divers, that offer guided dives, equipment rental, and dive certification courses. While these services are not directly marine services, they are essential for visitors interested in exploring Saba’s underwater attractions.
8. Emergency and Rescue Services
- Location: Fort Bay Harbor
- Description: Saba has a basic emergency response system in place, with services coordinated through the harbor and local authorities. While the island does not have extensive marine rescue facilities, it is part of the regional maritime network, which can be called upon in case of emergency.
EMERGENCIES AND SAR INFO
Saba officials listening to a presentation about the search and rescue boat.
SABA–The public entity of Saba announced on Wednesday that it is slated to receive a search and rescue (SAR) boat in the first half of 2025, which will be used to assist people who need help in Saban waters.
The boat, funded by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management, was highlighted as a local need following research conducted in 2018 and 2019 by Dutch civil servant Marius Sliedrecht.
According to Saba, there will be a budget for the vessel and its maintenance, as well as for professional equipment, annual training for its crew and the establishment of a management organisation. This was based on a plan drafted in 2021 and 2022 by project leader Hans Schreuder.
“The launch of a SAR vessel marks a significant enhancement in the safety for both residents and visitors, fulfilling a long-awaited request from Saba,” Saba said in a press release on Wednesday. “The importance of the vessel cannot be overstated, as in cases of emergencies the reaction time of the Dutch Caribbean Coast Guard may be lengthy and there are currently no formalised SAR operations on Saba, increasing the risk of those in distress while at sea.”
Airport Manager Maegan Hassell said the vessel will ensure Saba fulfils the requirement of the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) that obliges airports close to water to have specialist aquatic rescue services readily available.
The vessel – a Habbeké Fast Rescue Craft 903 – will be a 30-foot boat and, according to the release, will be specifically crafted to handle Caribbean waters, as well as strong winds, high temperature and the salt from the ocean.
It will have the capacity to carry 21 persons in addition to four members of the rescue team. The boat will have two Volvo Penta engines and will be fitted with jets instead of propellers for “safety reasons”, the release said, adding that a similar vessel is currently being used by Curaçao’s civil rescue organisation.
“The boat should take between nine and 12 months to be built, with the goal of being fully operational within the first half of 2025,” according to the press release.
Saba said training in SAR operations will be offered to a crew of four, but the goal is to grow to eight crew members in total. The training will be done in collaboration with volunteer group Royal Dutch Sea Rescue, who will facilitate certified training for Saba and St. Eustatius in their respective local waters.
“Further collaboration between Saba and St. Eustatius will occur through management and sharing technical and maintenance capacity,” according to the release.
Saba Island Governor Jonathan Johnson thanked the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water Management for funding the initiative, and Schreuder for “involving the stakeholders during the process.”
“We realise the local situation and the need to ensure international requirements are met. Through patience and persistence, we will actualise a necessary resource for our island,” said Johnson.
Getting Ready to GO Cruising!
Getting Ready to GO!
by Ocean Posse member Rob Murray on SV AVANT
What do you do to get ready for a cruising season? What resources do you rely on? How can you assess the weather and potential passages months in advance? The following is a list of some of the steps we take and resources we rely on aboard Avant to get ready for a major passage that’s a few months down the line, or to get ready for a season of sailing.
First, we have a look at Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Routes, a staple reference guide for cruisers. While a great resource, this book is a, “comprehensive guide to over 1,000 routes covering all the oceans of the world from the tropical South Seas to the high-latitudes of the Arctic and Antarctic” – all in some 600-odd pages. While it provides breadth, it is somewhat lacking in depth. It suffers to some degree from the source of data, which is a mix of pilot charts and books overlaid heavily with the personal experience of many seasoned cruisers. Since some areas are not frequented by cruisers for various reasons, they are often omitted (for example, the 1987 edition omitted Colombia, since it was so dangerous it seemed no one cruised there). Also, since Cornell’s other endeavors (such as founding the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers [ARC]) have been long distance and circumnavigation focused, it often misses out on more coastal routes. Nonetheless, it is always our first stop for a broad overview.
Cornell does focus on the passage part of the planning and has virtually no information on local conditions to expect when you have arrived.
Regarding our plan to leave Panama, Cornell says, “Eastbound Passages from Panama can be extremely difficult at all times of the year, because of the prevailing direction of the winds and current” and that “better and more comfortable passages have been made in late spring or early summer”. Good to know.
Before Cornell wrote his guides, sailors relied on Ocean Passages for the World, publication NP136 from the British Admiralty. I think the 3rd edition of 1973 was the last to feature separate routing advice for sailing ships and power vessels (newer editions omit advice for sailing ships). It builds on the 1895, 1923 and 1960 editions and is the last Admiralty guide written for professional world sailors (the iron men in wooden ships). PDF versions can be found online and make interesting and instructive reading. While the sailing directions are directed for full rigged tall ships, they suit modern sailors because, although we may be able to sail upwind, none of us much like it. While I enjoy referring to it, I should note that its precision and brevity make Cornell look positively loquacious.
Next, we go shopping at the NGA store (National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency) is a support agency of the United States Department of Defense with the primary mission of collecting, analyzing, and distributing geospatial intelligence (GEOINT)). If the US Navy gave you command of a destroyer and said ‘go there’, the NGA would provide the travel guidebooks. The NGA annual budget is classified, but was estimated to be at least $4.9 billion in 2013. It is nice to be able to add that kind of horsepower to your cruising budget.
We get the Sailing Directions (Enroute) for our area (these include:
“detailed coastal and port approach information, supplementing the largest scale chart of the area). Each publication is subdivided into geographic regions, called sectors, which contain information about the coastal weather, currents, ice, dangers, features and ports, as well as graphic keys to standard [MIMA/DMA] nautical charts available for the area.”
They have some photos, and some sketch charts. While mainly designed for much larger vessels, they are very handy. After the introductory chapter, the detailed description of the region begins. A map/chart precedes each chapter and outlines the nautical charts used in the area to be discussed. In these chapters, as much as possible, the coastal description is in geographic sequence and gazettes the coastline, ports, anchorages, navigation aids and hazards. These are fairly current: it is unusual to find one that hasn’t been updated in the last six months or so. For example, the 2017 Publication 148 was corrected (updated) through 26 September 2020 when I downloaded it in December 2020. Similar ADMIRALTY Sailing Directions are available from the UK Hydrographic Office, but they are priced at Hardback Paper Publication: £63.50, Electronic version (AENP): £38.70 per volume, so we don’t use those.
Both publications have some information on local conditions along the coast and note currents and weather systems with much more detail than other readily available sources.
For the western Caribbean, where Avant is now, the Sailing Directions (Enroute) tell us:
“The prevailing winds are the NE trades, which frequently assume a N or E direction, also a gusty character close inshore. These winds flow strongly from December to March”
and
“During the dry season [December to March], the winds are stronger”
and
“During the dry season, the wind may freshen to a velocity of 15 knots in the vicinity of the Panama Canal, but frequently exceeds 20 knots for a period of 24 hours or more. During the wet season in the same locality, the average wind velocity is about 8 knots, but greater velocities are experienced during passing local rain squalls.”
Hmmm. We are not fans of sailing to weather in strong or gusty winds; spring sounds much better.
We also get the Sailing Directions (Planning Guides) (these include, “relevant physical, political, industrial, navigational and regulatory information about the countries adjacent to a particular ocean basin in a single volume”). The information on each country is contained in a page or two. These are not hugely useful, but they do list national holidays and Search and Rescue (SAR) contact information for each country. You generally do not want to arrive on a holiday with the attendant overtime port fees, and while you don’t want to have to call SAR, if you do need to, it’s nice to have the number.
While you are in the NGA shop, you may as well get some other e-books that may be handy – the latest American Practical Navigator (Bowditch), the latest International Code of Signals (revised 2020 – you do have the new edition aboard, don’t you?), etc.
We want to review the Pilot Charts which:
“depict averages in prevailing winds and currents, air and sea temperatures, wave heights, ice limits, visibility, barometric pressure, and weather conditions at different times of the year. The information used to compile these averages was obtained from oceanographic and meteorologic observations over many decades during the late 18th and 19th centuries. The Atlas of Pilot Charts set is comprised of five volumes, each covering a specific geographic region. Each volume is an atlas of twelve pilot charts, each depicting the observed conditions for a particular month of any given year. The charts are intended to aid the navigator in selecting the fastest and safest routes with regards to the expected weather and ocean conditions.”
There are three main ways to get these, by:
- Buying paper copies at a chart dealer or online. (This is expensive and inconvenient, and a set is heavy to carry around for the use they get. They are rarely updated, however, so they will be current for many years). They are about $45.00 US per volume, plus shipping.
- Downloading the free PDF versions at the NGA. These are big PDF files, and some computers have difficulty managing them well. They are faithful copies of the paper charts and contain all the data.
- Downloading the free versions converted to *.BSB files for use within OpenCPN. The Chart Groups feature in OpenCPN is ideally suited for viewing and organizing Pilot Charts, but its often difficult to see the chart and the explanatory text or notes at the same time.
The downside of pilot charts is that they have been developed over many years and use data reaching back at least 100 years. Since a lot of the data is from pre-satellite times, they are primarily based on data derived from shipboard observations: since ships try to avoid areas of inclement weather, the observations tend to under-report gales and high waves, and the data quality for rarely travelled routes is poorer. The upside is that they combine a huge amount of data (tens of thousands of data points, if not millions combined in a very comprehensible format: wind, waves, currents, storm tracks, and more on a single page).
Here’s a view of the Pilot Chart for the western Caribbean in January:
Where the red arrow is (just North of Santa Marta Colombia) is the region with the strongest average winds, about 23 knots. Because the data is digital, we can move our cursor around to see the average winds are almost exactly 20 knots throughout the region, which makes a bit of a difference from the 17-21 in the pilot charts. Remember, if the average wind is 20 knots, about ½ the time it is stronger than that and about ½ the time it is less.
We also like to root around a bit in satellite data sets. You can review years of data for many satellites with disparate data sets at the NOAA portal. I don’t know what the combined budget is for this satellite array, but it’s a nice data set to have access to for free.
For example, if we want to know what the waves were like in the western Caribbean, January 2020 mid-month we go to this data set and can extract wave height data:
Hmmm . . . up to about 20-22’. That puts the fun meter pretty deep in the red, we should probably look at another month for that passage.
We can also go to this data set and extract the satellite wind data for the same date:
Positively sporty, that is. I’m not liking January for voyaging in the Western Caribbean.
We also try to find cruising guides. Cruising guides for different areas in the world vary tremendously in quality, and many are out of date. For some areas, they’re just not available. We have also found errors in waypoints and just plain bad advice in some, so do check the data and be careful. As Ronald Reagan said, “trust, but verify”. Sometimes you can find cruisers going ‘the other way’ that you can trade guidebooks and check guidebook reviews with.
I spend the time to find or make satellite charts for the cruising area to use in conjunction with OpenCPN, and download satellite views to the OvitalMap application on our tablets and in SASPlanet on our PC for reference. We get at least large-scale paper charts to carry aboard (which we have never used but carry ‘just in case’). Last time I checked, the best deal was at Frugal Navigator, at about $16.00 per chart for DMA charts. For some more travelled areas, chart books are available and make a cost-effective alternative.
We also look for rallies and races in our area of interest as their websites often have good local intel (fleet briefing documents, weather synopses, lists of marine facilities, etc.). We join rallies if their interests coincide with ours, but generally avoid those that have a ‘fleet’ approach with all vessels sailing in ‘convoy’ with set departure dates, since we like to pick our own weather windows. So, sailing down the coast we looked at the website for the Baja Haha and didn’t join up, but we did join the Panama Posse since it seemed useful. In the Pacific, the Single Handed Transpac, the Pac Cup, and the Vic-Maui are good sources; in the Atlantic, the ARC (westbound) and ARC Europe (eastbound) have some useful bits. These rallies and races give you a means to meet cruisers in the area and get up-to-the-minute local knowledge from people in the area, and often offer discounts at marinas and similar places of interest.
We round out our research by looking for cruising blogs on the internet, seeking out Facebook groups for specific cruising areas, and looking at the Center for Disease Control website for health information, and UK and USA consular sites for information on safety. While some of the safety advice seems histrionic, it can be useful to have a relative gauge of what to expect in each area. The Canadian consular sites are usually not as good or up to date simply because we have fewer diplomats abroad.
To prepare for time ashore we may look at general travel guides such as the Barefoot guides or the Lonely Planet guides (printed or online), trip advisor, reviews in google maps, etc. We also download offline accessible street maps to our phones and tablets in Google Maps or another app (like Maps.me) for navigation in our land-based adventures.
Generally, gathering all this research takes an afternoon or perhaps a day (except for making the satellite charts, which can take a lot longer), then reviewing and sorting our ideas on when and where we want to move can be done at our leisure.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ROUTE PLANNING STRATEGIES!
MEET THE FLEET: SV SMALL WORLD III - Darren & Karen
MEET THE FLEET: SV SMALL WORLD III
Darren & Karen
After 30+ years of work in the Seattle area, Darren being a licensed professional civil engineer, and Karen an office manager; a plan was hatched to sell everything they owned, buy a sailing vessel, and travel the world. This afforded them the opportunity to retire 5-years early, planning to return to the USA at the age of 65, when healthcare becomes more affordable. June, 2020 their house of 20-years was put on the market.
June 15, 2020, Darren & Karen departed Washington in a rented motorhome bound for Ventura, California to search for a worthy blue water sailing vessel. Enter Todd Duff, Caribbean Sailor, Author, and Marine Surveyor. Todd had purchased a 1988 47.7 Bristol Cutter Rig in Florida. She was de-masted and he trucked Small World III to Ventura, California where he had worked on an extensive re-fit for an anticipated South Pacific / World Circumnavigation. Due to personal reasons, he sold SV SMALL WORLD III to Karen and Darren.
Karen and Darren departed from San Diego California, November 9, 2020 after finally receiving Certificate of Documentation from the USCG. The marina reservations in Ensenada, MX were in place. Two hours into Mexican waters the marina captain called to say, the previous owner of Small World III, (vessel named Anhinga) had a Temporary Import Permit (TIP) that had not been canceled, and instructed Karen and Darren to return to San Diego. A four hour downwind run immediately turned into a 8 hour upwind beat to return to California. While this wasn’t the beginning of the learning process, it was one of the more painful experiences. Two days later Small World III returned to Mexican waters and the adventure started AGAIN.
While in Mexico, they did some work on SMALL WORLD III and travelled inland. Highlights included, new Bimini and dodger in La Paz, new 50-gallon fuel tank in Mazatlán, and an AstraZeneca shot in small mountain village San Sabastian.
They continued to travel down the pacific coast cruising in El Salvador, Costa Rica, and Panama. Lessons: 1. Don’t runover lobster traps at 0400 hours leaving Turtle Bay, Mexico. 2. Don’t trust an English mechanic in La Paz, that he has fixed a leaking fuel tank. 3. Always be ready to sail your vessel because old fuel tanks cause plugged filters at the worst time. 4. make sure that your secondary anchor is available and ready for use as you sail up to anchor and find that your windlass is not operating and putting your primary anchor out of commission.
The big decision they had to make in November 2021: turn right to the South Pacific, turn left through the Panama Canal? Since French Polynesia, New Zeeland and Australia where still closed due to COVID the left turn was made December, 2021. In Panama, improvements included: new AGM batteries, a new 3.5 Kw NextGen generator, and a trip to San Diego for boat parts.
Once they got through the Canal, they spent three months learning about Caribbean Trade Winds and exploring San Blas, Shelter Bay Marina, Boca de Toro, and many other places. In March 2022, they made an upwind slog to Santa Marta Columbia. The highlight of this slog was hitting the Columbian coast 30 NM south of Cartagena and motoring into a 25 kt wind making 2.5 knots. They made an exceptionally brief stop in Cartagena for four hours to dry out and check weather. Their stay was brief, and Karen had to explain to the Port Captain on the radio that we were promptly leaving his authority and would check in to Santa Marta when we got there.
As promised their next port was Santa Marta. They checked in and then spent three months in Santa Marta, Columbia making land-based trips, to Cartagena, Bogotá, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Peruvian Amazon, Lake Titicaca, and Aramu Muru. At the marina in Santa Marta, they dropped their centerboard to its max depth of 11’ so the boys could clean the barnacles off it. After about 3 weeks in a marina that was only 11’ deep they found the centerboard pin had worked itself out of the hull on the port side. SURPRISE....A 2” diameter by 14” naval bronze pin worked its way out rendering the centerboard nonfunctional. Unfortunately, Santa Marta is not an economical place to haul out: $2,500 was the quote, excluding work, which they would not let the boat owner do. They found a better solution, but they had to work for it. In June, 2022, they commenced a 3-day upwind beat to Aruba, where they could be haul in and out for less than $600. They then took a quick couple months back in the states, returned to Small World III, which had a new centerboard pin and bottom paint. Problem solved! Then they sailed off to Curacao and Bonaire, for the balance of the hurricane season.
November 6, 2022, Karen and Darren crossed 550 nm of the Caribbean Sea from Bonaire to Saint Martin. Our buddy boat a 42-foot catamaran called 2CAN, was fraught with problems, losing their wind instruments on day 2 and engine problems on day 4. SMALL WORLD III provided wind information and weather forecasting every 6 hours for the rest of the passage and kept a close eye on them, as they motor sailed to the French side of Saint Martin.
We then ventured to Saint Kitts, Antiqua, and Guadeloupe. That’s as far as we got towards the windward Caribbean, as our destination was actually Florida to stage for our Atlantic crossing. Back we went to Saint Kitts, and Saint Martin. From there it was the BVIs, USVIs, one month in Puerto Rico, one month in Dominican Republic while Karen recovered from a broken foot. Then on to Turks, Exuma's, Bahamas, then West Palm Beach, Florida..
June 6, 2023, we departed Savannah, Georgia. They spent 21 days making way to the Azores, had an8-day weather delay, and then took 9 days to Tangier Morocco. Gibraltar, Valencia, Spain, Ibiza, Majorca, Minorca, Sardegna, Corse, Italy, Sicilia, and then in November to Tunisia, for the winter. We had checked into the EU in Valencia, and checked out in Messina, Sicily. Three months had flown by way too fast, and we were troubled by the odd looks we got at both check in and check out.
By April 2024 with new bottom and hull paint from Monastir, Tunisia, we departed for Malta. Upon entry, we were delighted to get a crew list stamped rather than our passport. Three weeks later we departed for Venice with 800 AH of new lithium batteries on board. What a game changer! To Sicilia, Italy, Croatia, finally arriving in Venice May 15, 2024. Still no stamp on the passport, yea. In Croatia, we obtained a Navigation Permit with the assistance of an Agent, and our tourist tax was paid online. In Venice, we removed our 00000 Turbo for service and cleaning, a routine item. Unfortunately, the authorized Yanmar dealer was not equipped for maintenance and only offered a new replacement at 2000 euro. We ordered a turbo core from the US. It made it to Tessera Italy in 4 days, and that’s as close as it got, about 15 NM from us. We waited for two more weeks and it was apparent that it was never going to clear customs. We left, the core went back to the US, and by the way, because the turbo was disassembled for the core replacement it ended up getting cleaned and found to be in good operating condition. Just what we wanted anyway.
SMALL WORLD III departed Venice on June 6, 2024 and went back through Croatia. They then, checked into Greece June 15, 2024 with the use of an agent. We now have a Greek Transit Log, paid for four months, thru September 2024. Still no stamp on our passport. They have since visited many islands in the Ionian Sea, and crossed the Corinth Cut on July 5, 2024. More recently, they have cruised around many islands around Athens, then north to the Sporades, followed by cruising to all four major islands, and making our way to Mykonos on a downwind run in the Aegean Sea.
We are currently in Paros, south of Mykonos, with the intent of heading east to Kos and Rhodes. We’ll try to figure out a way to visit Turkey that is economical; their inflation rate in the past five years is so far out of hand that marinas that were once less than 500 euro per month are now 3000 to 4000 euros per month.
We plan to head back to the Caribbean this Winter. From there, we don’t know. Or we could winter in Malta or Tunisia, and do another lap next year. Time will tell.
SV SMALL WORLD III Karen & Darren - Bristol 47.7
THANK YOU FOR THE INTRODUCTION!