Cidade Velha, Historic Centre of Ribeira Grande, Cabo VerdE

Cidade Velha, once known as Ribeira Grande, lies on the southwest coast of Santiago Island in Cape Verde. Coordinates for the anchorage are 14°54.144′ N 23°36.221′ W. This bay was the first European colonial settlement in the tropics and the launching point for Portugal’s Atlantic empire. Founded in 1462, it became a hub for trade, exploration, and the grim realities of the transatlantic slave routes. Today, Cidade Velha is a UNESCO World Heritage site (since 2009) and one of the most atmospheric anchorages in the archipelago.

For sailors, Cidade Velha is not just another stop on the Atlantic run ,  it is a historic roadstead where caravels once prepared for the Guinea coast, where Francis Drake raided in 1585, and where towering walls of Fort Real de São Filipe still look down on the anchorage.

For the Ocean Posse, Cidade Velha offers a mix of anchoring challenges, history, and culture worth exploring. While not a place for long-term marina-style comfort, it rewards those who stop for a day or two on their way to Mindelo, the Caribbean, or Brazil.

Coordinates & Approach
• Cidade Velha Anchorage: 14°54.144′ N 23°36.221′ W
• Depths: 5 to 8 meters in sand patches, but holding can vary.
• Bottom: Mostly sand with rock outcrops. Set the anchor well.
• Distance from Praia: 6 NM west along the coast

Anchorage & Holding
Anchoring at Cidade Velha is best described as “historic but exposed.”
• Depths: 6–8 meters.
• Bottom: Mostly sand with rocky patches. Dig the anchor in hard and consider using two anchors in a V if you expect swell.
• Protection: Open to the south and southwest. The NE trades are usually fine, but wrap-around swell makes it rolly.

Best Practice:
• Treat this as a day stop anchorage. Go ashore, explore the town, and either return to Praia or continue onward.
• Overnighting is possible in settled weather, but crews should stay alert.
Several Ocean Cruising Club and Noonsite reports warn of thefts from yachts at both Praia and Cidade Velha. Lock dinghies, avoid leaving gear out, and consider paying a local boatman to watch your tender.

Weather & Seasonal Considerations
Northeast Trade Winds
The NE trades dominate from November to May. Cidade Velha lies on the lee side of Santiago, so gusts tumble down the ridges. Holding is tested in squalls, but the trades are generally steady.
Harmattan
From December through February, the Harmattan winds carry dust from the Sahara. Visibility drops, skies turn hazy, and instruments may be coated with fine red grit. Solar panels are less effective, and rigging requires rinsing.
Swell
Southwest swell — though rare — can make Cidade Velha untenable. Check forecasts carefully before anchoring. Mindelo or Tarrafal on the north coast are safer alternatives in such conditions.

Local Services & Provisions
Cidade Velha is small, and services are limited compared to Praia or Mindelo. Still, the essentials can be found:
• Dinghy Landing: The best spot is near the old quay at the foot of the town square. Swell may make this wet.
• Shops & Markets: Small groceries sell basics (rice, flour, fish, vegetables when available).
• Fuel & Water: No direct fuel dock. Arrange jerry cans via Praia. Water from Praia as well.
• Restaurants: Several small restaurants and cafés line the seafront. Fresh grilled fish is the highlight.
• Security: Do not leave dinghies unattended. Hire a boat boy if possible.

History & Cultural Significance
Cidade Velha is the cradle of Cape Verde’s history. Every stone seems to carry echoes of caravels, merchants, and sailors from centuries past.
• Founded: 1462, as Ribeira Grande.
• UNESCO World Heritage (2009): Recognized for its preserved colonial layout and role in Atlantic history.
• Slave Trade: Cidade Velha was one of the first and largest slave markets in the tropics. Thousands of enslaved Africans passed through before being shipped to Europe and the Americas.
• Francis Drake’s Raid: In 1585, English privateer Drake attacked and plundered the settlement.
• Decline: With time, Ribeira Grande was abandoned in favor of Praia.
Today, the town’s cobbled streets, ruined convents, and fortress stand as reminders of both glory and tragedy.

Key Sites to Visit

1 Fort Real de São Filipe
◦ Built in 1590 after Drake’s raid, this massive hilltop fort dominates the bay. Its bastions, walls, and cisterns are largely intact. The view across the anchorage is superb.

2 Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário
◦ One of the oldest colonial churches in the tropics, built in 1495. Its Manueline doorway is a rare architectural jewel.

3 Pelourinho (Pillory)
◦ The stone column in the main square where slaves were once punished and displayed. A sobering reminder of Cidade Velha’s role in the slave trade.

4 Rua Banana
◦ Said to be the first European-style street built in the tropics. Lined with small pastel-colored houses.

5 Monastery of São Francisco
◦ Ruins of a Franciscan convent overlooking the town.

6 Town Square
◦ The center of Cidade Velha life, with cafés and locals gathering in the shade.

Culture & Daily Life
Cape Verde’s Creole culture is alive in Cidade Velha. Portuguese colonial influence is blended with African roots. Music drifts from bars — morna and coladeira rhythms that Cesária Évora made world famous.
• Language: Portuguese (official) and Kriolu (widely spoken).
• Hospitality: Warm but cautious. Visitors should respect local customs.
• Cuisine: Fresh fish, cachupa (slow-cooked stew), and grogue (sugarcane rum).

Security & Cautions
Yacht security is a recurring theme in reports from Santiago:
• Praia: Known for dinghy thefts and occasional boardings.
• Cidade Velha: Safer, but still lock up. One report mentions a French yacht robbed while anchored here.

Advice for Captains:
• Lock dinghies and outboards.
• Do not leave valuables visible.
• Stay aboard overnight or organize a watch.
• Consider safer long-term anchorages (Mindelo, Tarrafal).

Passage Planning
Cidade Velha is most often used as:
• A day stop on the way from Praia to Tarrafal or Mindelo.
• A historical excursion for crews transiting the Atlantic.
• A weather waiting point for yachts heading west to the Caribbean or south to Brazil.

Routing Options:
• To Mindelo (São Vicente): ~130 NM NW.
• To Tarrafal (Santiago N): ~35 NM along the coast.
• To Caribbean (Barbados): ~2,000 NM W.
• To Brazil (Recife): ~1,600 NM SW.