MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park, Dominica
MUST SEE: 🇩🇲 Morne Trois Pitons National Park,
Dominica 🇩🇲
Morne Trois Pitons National Park is on the Island of Dominica in the southeastern Caribbean Sea. The volcanic island is quite heavily forested and mountainous, rich in water and fertile soil, and still has a number of (rarely) active volcanoes, volcanic vents, bubbling mud ponds, and hot springs. The National Park was established by the Dominican government in 1975 and made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 for its uniquely stunning geologic (volcanic) formations, its biodiversity, and its huge stores of water. Nearly all the headwaters of the streams and rivers that hydrate and power the southern half of the Island begin in Morne Trois Pitons National Park.
The National Park encompasses a lake called Boiling Lake, so named for the gasses that bubble from beneath it and keep the water temperature to over 95 degrees Celsius. The mountainous landscape is punctuated by three main peaks (hence Trois Pitons) that are steep and rugged with waterfalls, freshwater lakes, and a huge variety of flaura and fauna, several endemic to Dominica.
Preserving Wildlife is important to this Island nation that considers nature prime importance to their survival and food security. In addition to abundant fruit, The Mountain Chicken frog was once considered the nation's unofficial national dish. A decline in their numbers led to conservation efforts including hunting season regulations and scientific attention. However, no amount of regulations can hold back mother nature and both a soil borne fungus and a volcanic eruption resulted in significant reduction in many amphibious animals including the Mountain Chicken. Therefore, in spite of conservation efforts, their species numbers have continued to decline and they are on the brink of extinction. As of November 2023 scientists believe there were 30 known Mountain Chicken Frogs left.
There is hope in that Dominica has actually made tremendous strides that offer hope to the survival of the species identifying genes of resiliency that can be treated to eliminate the fungus illness in the frogs. Time will tell.
Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest: Hazards and Resources
Sailing to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest:
Hazards and Resources
By Rob and Debra Murray from SV AVANT as previously published in Currents Magazine
About the Hazards
As you set out on your sail to Mexico from the Pacific Northwest, there are numerous hazards you will encounter. For most, the only defense is a good watch.
Fishing Boats
Most vessels inshore are commercial fishing boats, and many do not use AIS, so other fishermen don’t know where they are fishing. At night, they usually light up like stadiums hosting a World Cup game and are easy to spot. They tend to congregate on offshore banks or directly offshore from ports on the coast. Some fishermen have begun using AIS beacons on fishing gear, which is a bonus.
Debris
Floating debris, especially logs, can be an issue, particularly during or immediately following heavy rains or large tides, and especially off of larger rivers or inlets.
Crab Pots
Crab pots are endemic. While there has been an effort to create a crab pot free zone down the coast, its observance is marginal and equipment drifts into the the lanes anyways. The consortium that manages the lanes hasn’t met to update the agreement since 2017. Note that in areas subject to strong current, commercial crabbers will generally use two buoys, one to hold the line up and a second on a further 10 feet or so of line that will still be visible and retrievable, even when the first buoy has been pulled under by the current. It’s easier to tangle a buoy in your prop if the current is slack and both buoys are lying idle on the surface.
Bars
Of course, everyone worries about the dreaded ‘bar crossings’ that may be encountered. After all, they do call the Columbia Bar the ‘Graveyard of the Pacific’, right? But if you’re crossing at a slack or flood in weather that isn’t horrible, none of the bar crossings are difficult. In Avant’s passage down the coast, we entered Astoria (the aforementioned ‘graveyard of the Pacific’), Coos Bay and Humboldt Bay/Eureka (widely considered the second worst bar crossing), and had no trouble at all. Our timing had us arriving at each bar on or near slack water, with a slight edge to the flood tide. Many mariners recommend using the last of the flood tide as the optimum time for a bar crossing, when the water is deepest. Waves at each entrance were under two feet, and the period was long, as predicted by the forecasts we sailed under. Charting was universally excellent.
Each harbour with a bar has a coast guard station that can offer advice, an up-to-the-minute bar report, and will even send out a cutter or other boat to guide you in if conditions warrant (we availed ourselves of this at Coos Bay when visibility dropped to under 200’). If you get caught out by a closed bar, you just have to gut it out until the bar reopens, but with modern weather forecasts and a modicum of planning,
this is highly unlikely. (Note that the coast guard definition of a ‘small craft’ in bar closing advisories is a vessel under 65’ in length.)
Available Resources
The following resources can make this specific passage more pleasant and perhaps less challenging:
Weather Information
No doubt you have attended courses, read books, downloaded software, studied weather patterns, learned how to download a variety of GRIBs, receive weather faxes, decode 500mb charts, toss chicken bones and generally worked really hard to prepare for cruising by becoming your own expert weather forecaster. Well, on this trip, those skills can be used for entertainment value or simply allowed to rest. (Don’t worry, you will use those skills south of the USA/Mexico border).
The NOAA forecasters are as good as it gets, and there are dedicated teams in each of Washington, Oregon and Northern California working around the clock to deliver the most accurate weather forecast possible. These forecasts are available via VHF on the usual WX channels to a considerable range offshore (usually at least 50 miles, often 100+). The forecast zones extend to 250 miles offshore in discrete steps, and the forecast zones are quite small. In addition to the forecast, each weather office provides a ‘discussion’, which underscores the reasons for the forecast offered, how the models informed (or did not inform) the forecasts, what’s likely to follow the forecast period, and any other juicy tidbits the forecaster(s) think might be interesting. You can find the discussion by going to the forecasting office’s webpage and looking for the ‘discussion’ button.
If you want to ‘play along’ with the forecaster, you can download the GRIBs (GFS and NDFD editions) and see if you get the same conclusions.
Live and near live weather observations are also available from the national weather service by finding the ‘observations’ button on the left side of the forecast page. These vary in frequency from every few hours to live, depending on location and observation station type. There are dozens of these between Neah Bay and San Francisco.
Enjoy the weather forecasts. They end at the Mexico USA border and it becomes far more basic there.
Wave Patterns
Waves offshore contribute substantially to the (dis)comfort the crew experience on the passage. Aboard Avant, we have found waves change character at depths of about 60m/200’. When the depths we sail in are under 60m, the waves seem to have a different character, a more insistent vertical component, than they do in greater depths. We always aim to be in depths greater than 60m/200’ whenever possible. When closing the coast, expect waves to ‘feel’ stronger, even if they are not visibly any bigger. Also when closing the coast, watch for secondary wave trains from reflections off shorelines where the shores are steep to, or a change in wave direction where a wave train may wrap a point or headland. And there are also outliers such as this one.
Generally, wave height has very little to do with discomfort aboard; it is the ratio of wave height to period that creates difficulty. When waves are ‘square’ (wave height in feet = wave period in seconds), no one will have any fun aboard, whether the waves are 3’ or 8’ high. We choose not to sail in square waves. When the period extends to 1.5x the wave height, conditions become much more tolerable. When the period is 2x or greater wave height, the gentle rise and fall is barely noticeable after a while.
When traveling with the wave train, the apparent period will be longer, and when traveling against the wave train the apparent period will be shorter. Take this into account when evaluating wave predictions.
Guidebooks
The NOAA Coast Pilot 7 is a free download and covers the coast from Neah Bay to the Mexican border. You will want to read chapter three, and use chapters seven to thirteen in reverse order as you transit south. This volume, over 700 pages, is a comprehensive mariners guide to the coast, its character, and its hazards. It is updated weekly, so make sure you have the latest edition downloaded.
There are commercial cruising guides available for the Columbia River and San Francisco Bay, but we found they added little to what the Coast Pilot provided for free.
The USCG has produced a general bar crossing guide with lots of relevant information. Individual bar crossing guides are available as well, and some can be found on this list. The following bar crossing guides (in pdf format) provide specific information about hazards for each bar crossing:
- Quillayute Bar Hazards
- Grays Harbour Bar Hazards
- Rogue River Bar Hazards
- Tillamook Bay Bar Hazards
- Yaquina Bay Bar Hazards
- Umpqua River Bar Hazards
- Depoe Bay Bar Hazards
- Columbia River Bar Hazards
- Coquille River Bar Hazards
- Chetco Bar Hazards
US Coast Guard
The US Coast Guard is a highly professional military search and rescue operation, and operates multiple stations up and down the coast. From late May through Labor Day, they also operate a number of seasonal stations, some located on the jetties surrounding bar crossings. They can be reached by VHF or by telephone (numbers are in the Coast Pilot, or on their website. Note them down before you go). Their VHF coverage is typically at least 25-50 miles offshore, and we found cell coverage was passable at 8-10 miles offshore and excellent at 5. It is ALWAYS worth calling by VHF or cell phone to get a bar forecast before committing to crossing any bar on the coast.
Charts
NOAA charts (both raster and vector) are free downloads and can be used in navigation programs like OpenCPN. They are frequently updated, and OpenCPN has a chart downloader that will automatically update your electronic charts directly from NOAA. Proprietary e-chart sets like C-Map or Navionics are also updated, but not as frequently. Like milk, bread and beer, charts are best fresh, so do use the free resources to ensure you have the most up to date information aboard. Paper charts for backup can be purchased individually, or you can get a ‘chart book’ that covers large sections of the coast. We elected to do the latter, buying two MAPTECH Chartbooks that covered the coast from the Canadian border to the Mexican border.
SY AVANT 🇨🇦 Rob & Debra – Beneteau 43.5
EXPLORING INLAND TO BELGIUM
AFTER CROSSING THE ATLANTIC OCEAN
SV QUESO GRANDE II GOES INLAND TO BELGIUM
SV QUESO GRANDE II 🇺🇸 Lance & Sherri – Seawind 1260 41′
Looks like your sea legs are taking you far; Thanks for sharing!
: The Venice of the North
Nestled in the northwest of Belgium, Bruges is a city that seems to have been plucked straight out of a fairy tale. With its picturesque canals, medieval architecture, and cobbled streets, it is no wonder that Bruges is often referred to as the “Venice of the North.” This enchanting city has preserved its medieval charm, making it one of Europe’s most beloved destinations.
A Historical Tapestry
Bruges’ history dates back to the 9th century when it was founded by the Vikings. By the 12th century, Bruges had become a bustling trading hub, thanks to its strategic location and access to the North Sea. The city’s prosperity peaked in the 14th century when it was one of the leading cities of the Hanseatic League, a powerful commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe.
The wealth generated by trade is still evident today in Bruges’ stunning architecture. The city is a treasure trove of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings, many of which have been meticulously preserved. The Belfry of Bruges, a medieval bell tower in the city’s heart, is one of its most iconic landmarks. Climbing the 366 steps to the top offers panoramic views of the city and is well worth the effort.
The Canals of Bruges
Bruges is famous for its network of canals, which wind their way through the city and have earned it the nickname “Venice of the North.” These waterways were once vital for trade, allowing goods to be transported easily throughout the city. Today, they provide a scenic way to explore Bruges. A boat tour along the canals offers a unique perspective of the city’s stunning architecture and charming bridges.
Art and Culture
Art lovers will find plenty to admire in Bruges. The city is home to several world-class museums, including the Groeningemuseum, which houses an impressive collection of Flemish Primitive art. Works by masters such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling can be found here, offering a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of the region.
In addition to its museums, Bruges is famous for its lace-making tradition. Lace has been made in Bruges for centuries, and visitors can learn about this delicate craft at the Lace Center, where demonstrations are held regularly.
Culinary Delights
No visit to Bruges would be complete without indulging in its culinary offerings. Belgian chocolate is renowned worldwide, and Bruges is home to some of the country’s best chocolatiers. A stroll through the city’s streets will reveal numerous chocolate shops, each offering a tempting array of pralines, truffles, and other sweet treats.
Bruges is also a great place to sample traditional Belgian cuisine. Mussels and fries, known as “moules-frites,” are a must-try dish, as is the hearty Flemish beef stew, “carbonade flamande.” Of course, no meal in Belgium is complete without a glass of locally brewed beer. Bruges has several breweries, each producing unique and flavorful beers that are sure to delight any connoisseur.
A Timeless Charm
What makes Bruges truly special is its ability to transport visitors back in time. The city’s medieval architecture, cobbled streets, and tranquil canals create an atmosphere that is both romantic and timeless. Whether you’re exploring the historic Markt square, visiting the Basilica of the Holy Blood, or simply enjoying a leisurely boat ride, Bruges offers an experience unlike any other.
Bruges is more than just a city; it is a journey through history, art, and culture. Its charm lies in its ability to blend the old with the new, offering visitors a glimpse into the past while still being a vibrant and lively place to explore. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a romantic getaway, Bruges has something to offer everyone.
ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA'S ISLAND ADVENTURES ASHORE
SV VIVA is in French Polynesia in the South Pacific. Their recent report shares a few different ways to explore the islands of Moorea and Tahiti:
We rented a scooter and toured the island of Moorea yesterday and did a 9-mile hike up to Belvedere and back on the 3-cocotier trail a few days ago...found many amazing views. Today, we took the ferry across to Tahiti at 7 am, rented a scooter and toured the whole island with several beautiful stops along the way. We sprinkled this tour with some provisioning that we could fit in backpacks and boxes on our rented scooter.
VIVASweet bike lane!
SV VIVA 
Pierre & Marie - Amel 52'
Adventurous and Practical! Thank you for sharing VIVA!
HISTORY OF BLACKBIRDING REMEMBERED
Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day
August 25, 2024
Blackbirding: A Dark Piece of History Remembered
Australian South Sea Islander National Recognition Day is significant as it recognizes the the arrival of the first South Sea Islanders to Queensland, Australia and a distinct cultural group that has become a part of the fabric of Australia's population and heritage. The arrival of the first South Sea Islanders was part of the practice of "blackbirding", or slave-trading, that went on in the mid to late 1800s in the South Pacific. Blackbirding refers to the recruitment, trickery, and outright stealing of people from their native lands forced to labor in distant lands. Labor conditions and pay were notoriously poor to inhumane.
This period of South Pacific history tangles with American history here: the US Civil War was dragging on and dramatically impacting worldwide supplies of sugar and cotton. Furthermore, as the US Civil War came to a close and it was apparent that the South would never be the same again, people from the Confederacy that had the means to escape found their way to the new places to practice their old ways: whether it be cash crops or slave trading. In response, new areas of production were opening up in new parts of the world like Australia, Fiji, and Hawaii. The new areas of production needed cheap laborers. Pacific Islanders, primarily from 80 different islands in Melanesia and Polynesia, were blackbirded and forced to work on new sugar and cotton plantations.
Tens of thousands of Pacific Island laborers were brought to Australia from neighboring Melanesian and Polynesian islands. In particular, Queensland, during the late 19th century, used these indentured laborers for work on sugarcane plantations. Estimates suggest around 60,000 to 80,000 humans were involved.
Fiji was another major destination and saw a significant influx of blackbirded laborers, with estimates ranging from 60,000 to 70,000 individuals. The sugarcane industry in Fiji heavily relied on coerced labor.
In Australia and other colonial powers involved in black birding, legislative measures were introduced to regulate and eventually restrict the recruitment of labor from Pacific Island nations. These measures aimed to improve labor conditions and protect the rights of indigenous populations. The practices associated with blackbirding were increasingly criticized by humanitarian and human rights advocates internationally. Reports of abuse, mistreatment, and exploitation of laborers led to growing pressure on countries involved in the practice to address these concerns. In various regions, including Australia and Fiji, labor reforms were introduced to address the unethical practices associated with blackbirding. The goal was to ensure fair treatment, appropriate wages, and better working conditions for laborers. Indigenous communities in affected regions began advocating for their rights and raising awareness about the mistreatment and exploitation they faced due to blackbirding. Their efforts contributed to increased attention on the issue and the need for change. As economies evolved and industries changed, the demand for labor through blackbirding diminished. Economic factors, coupled with increased awareness of ethical concerns, contributed to the decline of the practice. By the early 20th century, blackbirding had largely faded as a widespread practice due to a combination of the factors mentioned above. Many countries introduced laws and reforms to prevent the recruitment of labor through coercion and deception.
Formal Deportations of South Sea Island Laborers began in 1906 and continued until 1908. More than 7,500 South Sea Islanders were returned to their home country, though some had arrived in Australia at such a young age they would have had no memory of their exact origin. Indenture ceased in Fiji in 1911.
The official Australian South Sea Islander flag initially designed in consultation with the ASSI community. The flag was formally adopted in 1998. The color scheme incorporates colors resonant to people with forebears of which the three quarters of the trade were taken from the 83 islands of Vanuatu and are represented through colors green, gold and black, a third of the trade was from the Solomon Islands represented with blue, white, green. The overall flag is inclusive other parts of the South Pacific affected by Blackbirding as we are connected through the ocean blue and white stars.
While the formal abolition of blackbirding marked an important step in ending the exploitative practices, it's important to recognize that the legacy of blackbirding continues to impact affected communities to this day. The efforts to remember this history, address its consequences, and promote awareness of human rights and social justice continue in the affected regions.
BIRDS NESTING ABOARD IN COSTA RICA
BIRDS NESTING ABOARD IN COSTA RICA
SV FIREFLY, currently moored at Marina Papagayo in Costa Rica, recently had the opportunity to have some visitors aboard that made themselves right at home....and then up and left. No harm, no foul, and enjoyed being witness to such a precious time in a birds life.
Brenda shares the story:
.
. I did witness the Oriole enter into one of the displaced nests so all must have been good.
SV FIREFLY Brenda & Ted - Catalina 47
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THE SIGHTS WHERE YOU ARE!
MUST HAVE'S FOR CRUISING TO MEXICO
WHEN STORAGE SPACE IS LIMITTED...
MUST HAVE'S FOR CRUISING TO MEXICO
FOOD
First off, a love of tacos will serve every traveler to Mexico well. Tacos throughout Mexico are tasty, available everywhere every day of the week, affordable, and generally delicious!
Second, know that most markets big and small are very well stocked in Mexico.
Third, some items will be beautifully presented in bulk in covered market spaces.
Over the years more and more people are cruising to Mexico from the north and the south and finding that provisioning in Mexico is overall excellent particularly in larger towns. In most larger coastal towns like Ensenada, Cabo, La Paz, Loreto, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, etc... there are multiple large competing supermarkets (like Chedraui, Soriana, Walmart, Sam's Club, La Comer...etc), plus many smaller, local markets, and produce stands. In fact, excluding certain specialty foods that you may love in a certain brand (i.e. Jiffy Peanut Butter), most larger towns now have broad specialty provisioning possibilities. That said, as one visits smaller and smaller communities the selection may lessen and in an eye opening way so it is wise to provision well in large communities.
Nonetheless, one can depend on finding food provisions easily throughout Mexico and does not need to arrive in Mexico with their vessel stocked to the gills with a full pantry. Nowadays, some people are filling their hard to reach storage spots with special treats that bring them joy or could be fun gifts to bring others the taste of their homeport. For example, a buddy boat from the Pacific Northwest packed several cases of homepacked salmon to enjoy and give away. With this in mind, people are finding that they are fine to fill their stores with enough food for their passage to their next big port (plus a little) whether it is Ensenada or Chiapas, and save the rest of their storage for other items less easily acquired in Mexico.
BOAT SPARES AND PARTS
Often boats and boat owners are pretty brand and/or quality specific. These types of items may or may not be found easily and locally in Mexico. Often specialty and/or brand specific marine parts need to be ordered in which adds cost and time. For example, our boat has a fair bit of brightwork which we choose to keep up on. That being said, while we have tried many different varnishes and techniques over the years we always load up on the particular material we are using when and where we can because we stick to one product at a time. Mind you, there is Varnish for sale in Mexico, it just may not be the brand you (or we) are loyal to and, if imported, it may be twice as much. For this reason, many people load their vessel up with spares and boat maintenance materials that they are particularly loyal to.
Additionally, many people head to Mexico with boat projects in mind as labor and yard costs are more affordable in Mexico than in the neighboring USA. For this reason, some people will sail to Mexico with parts they plan to use in a project. Use Storage Space for these specialty parts and products that would otherwise need to be imported. Additionally, as engines and generators are very part specific, many people fill their stores with basic spares and filters for your engine and/or generator.
Equally important to note: Mexico is the land of 'Fix it' not 'Replace it'. To this day I wish I took a picture of a plastic chair we found on an empty beach under the shade of a beautiful tree. The chair was old, battered, AND laced together with fishing twine continuing to serve its purpose to any and all who pass by. Similarly, things like alternators and starter motors are often torn down, rebuilt, and reimstalled rather than torn out, thrown away, and replaced. The key to success here is a willingness to ask locals and look for the local specialist for whatever repair one needs. Mexico is full of smart, resourceful, and talented people that make and fix things. Understanding and speaking Spanish, and at the very least trying ones best, is a very important tool in ones toolbox when travelling in Mexico.
PERSONAL/HEALTH CARE
Pharmacies are well stocked and widely distributed in Mexico. Many medicines that are controlled in the USA can be bought without prescription in Mexico. Our first aid kit has been easily maintained and readily built up in Mexico.
CRUISING FOR THE SEASON IS NOT JUST ABOUT WHERE TO GO BUT WHEN
CRUISING FOR THE SEASON IS NOT JUST ABOUT WHERE TO GO BUT WHEN
Some cruisers just go when and where the wind blows, some cruisers study historic weather patterns, ocean currents and pilot charts to loosely plan their season in advance to get from Point A to Point B in a given amount of time, and some cruisers look at the time they have, where they want to go in that time and create a schedule. Many cruisers plan their voyages somewhere in between a mix of all these methods.
Recently, members of the Ocean Posse LineApp group had a discussion that highlights different variables and considerations when cruising, how to think ahead and be prepared to be flexible once a voyage begins. Cruising is not just about where we go, but when as well. Concepts discussed are the seasonality of historic weather patterns, probability of weather windows, prevailing winds, and the fun/comfort factor that a vessel and her crew are after.
This conversation was beneficial and highlights a Perk of the Ocean Posse: 🌊 Benefit from the latest information and prior experience participants
Member A (first season in Panama):
Cruising plans for next cruising season.
Go through the canal in early December.
Early January to Roatan then cruise from there to Rio Dulce and Belize until end of April.
Beginning of May back down to Panama and cruise San Blas to Cartagena for May and June.
Next summer in Cartagena.
Does this seem like a reasonable itinerary?
If so we’d love a buddy boat to cruise from Panama at least to Roatan. If anyone is even slightly interested in that please reach out to us. We are a power boat and cruise at 7-8 knots.
Member B (11th season cruising along Pacific Central American coast through to Caribbean Side of Panama):
Passage from Panama to Roatan can be pretty sporty in mid January. Plan to be sensitive to weather windows. The Christmas winds are usually full blown about then.
Member A :
If we get a window to get up there how will the cruising conditions be during those months?
Member B:
Have a look at the sources referenced in this article. Wave heights can be in the 8’ range near roatan mid January, which puts (our) fun meter pretty deep in the red. YMMV.
Getting out of Panama is hard in the months you mention (December-March), other than getting to Cartagena Colombia (which can be done with reasonable ease any time of year). So maybe a Bocas del toro/ san blas islands/ trip to Cartagena would suit the time frame you mention. Optionally returning to Panama if you like, or staging from Cartagena for next season.
Member A :
Thanks for the feedback. Doesn’t sound like the best itinerary.
The conversation went on with a few other members chiming in about their experiences (either their own or that of others they have know) cruising this stretch of coast previous seasons. These added considerations led Member A to propose and alternate route/schedule for the upcoming season to which again Member B responded.
With a bit of back and forth everyone privy to the conversation had the opportunity to truly consider the importance of looking to the prevailing weather and the seasonality of cruising routes that have been used to the sailors advantage for centuries to plan for safety, comfort, and fun along the way.
SY AVANT 🇨🇦 Rob & Debra – Beneteau 43.5 & MY TIDINGS OF JOY 🇺🇸 Jeff & Joy - DeFever 52′ & SY MAISON DE SANTÉ 🇺🇸 Nicole & Keenan - Cal 46'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR IDEAS ON CRUISING PLANNING!
Getting Ready to GO Cruising!
Getting Ready to GO!
by Ocean Posse member Rob Murray on SV AVANT
What do you do to get ready for a cruising season? What resources do you rely on? How can you assess the weather and potential passages months in advance? The following is a list of some of the steps we take and resources we rely on aboard Avant to get ready for a major passage that’s a few months down the line, or to get ready for a season of sailing.
First, we have a look at Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Routes, a staple reference guide for cruisers. While a great resource, this book is a, “comprehensive guide to over 1,000 routes covering all the oceans of the world from the tropical South Seas to the high-latitudes of the Arctic and Antarctic” – all in some 600-odd pages. While it provides breadth, it is somewhat lacking in depth. It suffers to some degree from the source of data, which is a mix of pilot charts and books overlaid heavily with the personal experience of many seasoned cruisers. Since some areas are not frequented by cruisers for various reasons, they are often omitted (for example, the 1987 edition omitted Colombia, since it was so dangerous it seemed no one cruised there). Also, since Cornell’s other endeavors (such as founding the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers [ARC]) have been long distance and circumnavigation focused, it often misses out on more coastal routes. Nonetheless, it is always our first stop for a broad overview.
Cornell does focus on the passage part of the planning and has virtually no information on local conditions to expect when you have arrived.
Regarding our plan to leave Panama, Cornell says, “Eastbound Passages from Panama can be extremely difficult at all times of the year, because of the prevailing direction of the winds and current” and that “better and more comfortable passages have been made in late spring or early summer”. Good to know.
Before Cornell wrote his guides, sailors relied on Ocean Passages for the World, publication NP136 from the British Admiralty. I think the 3rd edition of 1973 was the last to feature separate routing advice for sailing ships and power vessels (newer editions omit advice for sailing ships). It builds on the 1895, 1923 and 1960 editions and is the last Admiralty guide written for professional world sailors (the iron men in wooden ships). PDF versions can be found online and make interesting and instructive reading. While the sailing directions are directed for full rigged tall ships, they suit modern sailors because, although we may be able to sail upwind, none of us much like it. While I enjoy referring to it, I should note that its precision and brevity make Cornell look positively loquacious.
Next, we go shopping at the NGA store (National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency) is a support agency of the United States Department of Defense with the primary mission of collecting, analyzing, and distributing geospatial intelligence (GEOINT)). If the US Navy gave you command of a destroyer and said ‘go there’, the NGA would provide the travel guidebooks. The NGA annual budget is classified, but was estimated to be at least $4.9 billion in 2013. It is nice to be able to add that kind of horsepower to your cruising budget.
We get the Sailing Directions (Enroute) for our area (these include:
“detailed coastal and port approach information, supplementing the largest scale chart of the area). Each publication is subdivided into geographic regions, called sectors, which contain information about the coastal weather, currents, ice, dangers, features and ports, as well as graphic keys to standard [MIMA/DMA] nautical charts available for the area.”
They have some photos, and some sketch charts. While mainly designed for much larger vessels, they are very handy. After the introductory chapter, the detailed description of the region begins. A map/chart precedes each chapter and outlines the nautical charts used in the area to be discussed. In these chapters, as much as possible, the coastal description is in geographic sequence and gazettes the coastline, ports, anchorages, navigation aids and hazards. These are fairly current: it is unusual to find one that hasn’t been updated in the last six months or so. For example, the 2017 Publication 148 was corrected (updated) through 26 September 2020 when I downloaded it in December 2020. Similar ADMIRALTY Sailing Directions are available from the UK Hydrographic Office, but they are priced at Hardback Paper Publication: £63.50, Electronic version (AENP): £38.70 per volume, so we don’t use those.
Both publications have some information on local conditions along the coast and note currents and weather systems with much more detail than other readily available sources.
For the western Caribbean, where Avant is now, the Sailing Directions (Enroute) tell us:
“The prevailing winds are the NE trades, which frequently assume a N or E direction, also a gusty character close inshore. These winds flow strongly from December to March”
and
“During the dry season [December to March], the winds are stronger”
and
“During the dry season, the wind may freshen to a velocity of 15 knots in the vicinity of the Panama Canal, but frequently exceeds 20 knots for a period of 24 hours or more. During the wet season in the same locality, the average wind velocity is about 8 knots, but greater velocities are experienced during passing local rain squalls.”
Hmmm. We are not fans of sailing to weather in strong or gusty winds; spring sounds much better.
We also get the Sailing Directions (Planning Guides) (these include, “relevant physical, political, industrial, navigational and regulatory information about the countries adjacent to a particular ocean basin in a single volume”). The information on each country is contained in a page or two. These are not hugely useful, but they do list national holidays and Search and Rescue (SAR) contact information for each country. You generally do not want to arrive on a holiday with the attendant overtime port fees, and while you don’t want to have to call SAR, if you do need to, it’s nice to have the number.
While you are in the NGA shop, you may as well get some other e-books that may be handy – the latest American Practical Navigator (Bowditch), the latest International Code of Signals (revised 2020 – you do have the new edition aboard, don’t you?), etc.
We want to review the Pilot Charts which:
“depict averages in prevailing winds and currents, air and sea temperatures, wave heights, ice limits, visibility, barometric pressure, and weather conditions at different times of the year. The information used to compile these averages was obtained from oceanographic and meteorologic observations over many decades during the late 18th and 19th centuries. The Atlas of Pilot Charts set is comprised of five volumes, each covering a specific geographic region. Each volume is an atlas of twelve pilot charts, each depicting the observed conditions for a particular month of any given year. The charts are intended to aid the navigator in selecting the fastest and safest routes with regards to the expected weather and ocean conditions.”
There are three main ways to get these, by:
- Buying paper copies at a chart dealer or online. (This is expensive and inconvenient, and a set is heavy to carry around for the use they get. They are rarely updated, however, so they will be current for many years). They are about $45.00 US per volume, plus shipping.
- Downloading the free PDF versions at the NGA. These are big PDF files, and some computers have difficulty managing them well. They are faithful copies of the paper charts and contain all the data.
- Downloading the free versions converted to *.BSB files for use within OpenCPN. The Chart Groups feature in OpenCPN is ideally suited for viewing and organizing Pilot Charts, but its often difficult to see the chart and the explanatory text or notes at the same time.
The downside of pilot charts is that they have been developed over many years and use data reaching back at least 100 years. Since a lot of the data is from pre-satellite times, they are primarily based on data derived from shipboard observations: since ships try to avoid areas of inclement weather, the observations tend to under-report gales and high waves, and the data quality for rarely travelled routes is poorer. The upside is that they combine a huge amount of data (tens of thousands of data points, if not millions combined in a very comprehensible format: wind, waves, currents, storm tracks, and more on a single page).
Here’s a view of the Pilot Chart for the western Caribbean in January:
Where the red arrow is (just North of Santa Marta Colombia) is the region with the strongest average winds, about 23 knots. Because the data is digital, we can move our cursor around to see the average winds are almost exactly 20 knots throughout the region, which makes a bit of a difference from the 17-21 in the pilot charts. Remember, if the average wind is 20 knots, about ½ the time it is stronger than that and about ½ the time it is less.
We also like to root around a bit in satellite data sets. You can review years of data for many satellites with disparate data sets at the NOAA portal. I don’t know what the combined budget is for this satellite array, but it’s a nice data set to have access to for free.
For example, if we want to know what the waves were like in the western Caribbean, January 2020 mid-month we go to this data set and can extract wave height data:
Hmmm . . . up to about 20-22’. That puts the fun meter pretty deep in the red, we should probably look at another month for that passage.
We can also go to this data set and extract the satellite wind data for the same date:
Positively sporty, that is. I’m not liking January for voyaging in the Western Caribbean.
We also try to find cruising guides. Cruising guides for different areas in the world vary tremendously in quality, and many are out of date. For some areas, they’re just not available. We have also found errors in waypoints and just plain bad advice in some, so do check the data and be careful. As Ronald Reagan said, “trust, but verify”. Sometimes you can find cruisers going ‘the other way’ that you can trade guidebooks and check guidebook reviews with.
I spend the time to find or make satellite charts for the cruising area to use in conjunction with OpenCPN, and download satellite views to the OvitalMap application on our tablets and in SASPlanet on our PC for reference. We get at least large-scale paper charts to carry aboard (which we have never used but carry ‘just in case’). Last time I checked, the best deal was at Frugal Navigator, at about $16.00 per chart for DMA charts. For some more travelled areas, chart books are available and make a cost-effective alternative.
We also look for rallies and races in our area of interest as their websites often have good local intel (fleet briefing documents, weather synopses, lists of marine facilities, etc.). We join rallies if their interests coincide with ours, but generally avoid those that have a ‘fleet’ approach with all vessels sailing in ‘convoy’ with set departure dates, since we like to pick our own weather windows. So, sailing down the coast we looked at the website for the Baja Haha and didn’t join up, but we did join the Panama Posse since it seemed useful. In the Pacific, the Single Handed Transpac, the Pac Cup, and the Vic-Maui are good sources; in the Atlantic, the ARC (westbound) and ARC Europe (eastbound) have some useful bits. These rallies and races give you a means to meet cruisers in the area and get up-to-the-minute local knowledge from people in the area, and often offer discounts at marinas and similar places of interest.
We round out our research by looking for cruising blogs on the internet, seeking out Facebook groups for specific cruising areas, and looking at the Center for Disease Control website for health information, and UK and USA consular sites for information on safety. While some of the safety advice seems histrionic, it can be useful to have a relative gauge of what to expect in each area. The Canadian consular sites are usually not as good or up to date simply because we have fewer diplomats abroad.
To prepare for time ashore we may look at general travel guides such as the Barefoot guides or the Lonely Planet guides (printed or online), trip advisor, reviews in google maps, etc. We also download offline accessible street maps to our phones and tablets in Google Maps or another app (like Maps.me) for navigation in our land-based adventures.
Generally, gathering all this research takes an afternoon or perhaps a day (except for making the satellite charts, which can take a lot longer), then reviewing and sorting our ideas on when and where we want to move can be done at our leisure.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ROUTE PLANNING STRATEGIES!
SAILORS HAVE BEEN USING THE GULF STREAM FOR CENTURIES
The Gulf Stream is part of a global conveyor belt of ocean current that mixes global ocean waters (salinity density and temperature) around the globe. Like creatures of the sea, sailors have been using different currents in this conveyor belt for centuries. A very important current in the Atlantic Ocean is the Gulf Stream. Basically, SE trade winds blow and drive warm surface water from the mid/south Atlantic between Western Africa and Northeastern South America northwest through the Caribbean to the Gulf of Mexico. The turning of the earth and the west winds then drive this current north east up eastern North America. As the gulf stream gets more north it splits in a few different directions towards Europe and the North Atlantic.
The Gulf Stream is very important for the European climate as it brings warm air to the continent that would otherwise be quite cool. The Gulf Stream is 10,000 km long and moves at 2m/sec making it the largest and fastest of all the ocean currents on earth. Some people liken it to a river of water in the ocean. The Gulf Stream was discovered by early Spanish explorers over 500 years ago and was used to both colonize the West and bring wealth and fortune back to Spain. For this reason the Gulf Stream has had a huge impact on the history and culture of the Caribbean, the Americas and Europe.
Consider Christopher Columbus’s final transatlantic voyage, when conquistadors carved out a vast and wealthy overseas empire for Spain, first in the Caribbean as far north as what is now Florida and then on the mainlands of Mexico, Central America, Colombia, Venezuela, and Peru: these early ships used the Gulf Stream. Products of these tropical and mountainous territories brought high prices on the Continent, and Spanish galleons sailed home laden with exotic dyes, sugar, tobacco, chocolate, pearls, hardwoods, and silver and gold. These so-called “treasure fleets” made Spain the most powerful and envied nation in Renaissance Europe. Thanks to the travels of Ponce de Leon in 1513, Spanish navigators knew that the best return route from Spain’s rich Caribbean possessions was along the Gulf Stream, through the Bahama Channel, and past the shores of Florida. The Spanish knew they must defend this peninsula to prevent enemies from using its harbors as havens from which to raid the passing treasure fleets. The Spanish built Forts to defend their positions in the New World. One such Fort was built on the East Coast of modern day Florida:
CASTILLO SAN MARCOS, St Augustine Florida
See https://oceanposse.com/castillo-san-marcos/ to learn more about the Spanish Must See Fort along the Ocean Posse route in San Augustine, Florida.
For Ocean Posse vessels looking to cross the Atlantic Ocean the Gulf Stream has been and continues to be very important voyage planning consideration. Two big challenges are the higher amount of large vessel traffic in the Gulf Stream and the warmer water in the Gulf Stream which translates to thunderstorms or worse. For these two reasons many mariners cross the Gulf Stream as quickly as possible relative to their destination.