SV REMEDY DOUBLES BACK OVERLAND TO NICARAGUA

WARNING: Do not read while hungry or thirsty (for Rum or Adventure)

Nicaraguan street food at its best. In a banana leaf they place yucca, Chicharrรณn, topped with a pickled cabbage salad that is sour. We were told Nicaraguans love sour foods so the pickled cabbage is the perfect touch to this dish.

Karl and Natalie Leibensperger, from SV REMEDY, are currently exploring Nicaragua overland from Costa Rica and shares some details and highlights of their experiences along the way:

Due to time constraints we were not able to visit the Port of Puesta Del Sol in Northern Nicaragua but instead headed directly to Costa Rica. While staying in Marina Papagayo we planned a 10 day trip to Nicaragua with Va Pues Travel. The company organizes custom private tours of Nicaragua. Our trip started with a transfer from Liberia to Peรฑas Blancas. There are several transfer companies and the prices range from $85 to $120 each way. We used Best Ride Costa Rica, +506 8629 0242 with a rate of $85 each way. The transfer takes about 90 minutes.ย  It is a pretty interesting drive north to the border. The craziest thing is that there is 9km of backed up semi trucks that wait days to get into Nicaragua. We drove most of the 9km on the wrong side of the road swerving in and out of traffic. It made for an eventful ride.

Once at the border the Costa Rican immigration office is within a few steps of where your transfer is able to drive.ย  Our English speaking border agent took our passports, instructed us to pay our exit taxes at a bank machine ($8 US PP) and then once paid he stamped our passports and sent us on our way towards Nicaragua. There is a marked walkway to the border and the entire walk is about 300 meters. Before getting to the Nicaraguan immigration office you must show your passport to an official at a check point. They are looking for your exit stamp from Costa Rica. The Nicaragua immigration office is a huge blue and white building, really impossible to miss. You will need $1 US PP cash to get in the door. Once inside, the immigration official will need your passport, your hotel name, and your profession. The cost is $13 US PP in cash. They will give you two official papers that are needed to exit the country. Once this is completed all luggage is placed through an X-ray machine and then you are on your way. Welcome to Nicaragua!

We had a tour guide waiting for us but there is an Enterprise Car Rental at the Nicaraguan border. I’ll add that there is also one on the Costa Rican Border also.ย  Our first stop was Rivas, here we caught a very crowded transport ferry to Ometepe Island.

The beautiful Isla Ometepe inside Lake Nicaragua, Central America’s largest freshwater lake. Petroglyphs are found throughout Ometepe Island. The Island has two volcanos and less than 30,000 people.
The Island protects this side of Lake Nicaragua therefore the winds are not a huge issue when using the ferry. We spent two nights on Ometepe Island. If you love hiking this is the place to visit. There are volcano hikes, zip lining, rock repelling and much more. As Karl had recently had foot surgery, our trip was not adrenalin filled but still very interesting and fun. We visited the island’s private archaeological museum with pre-Columbian artifacts, the historical coffee hacienda Finca Magdalena, which was constructed in 1888, and we opted to do a cooking class with a local family. The cooking class was a wonderful highlight to our trip.
Tamales are a dish made for Nicaraguan celebrations such as Christmas and Birthdays. We had the pleasure of spending time with a local family, Antonio and Rosa who showed us how to make their tamales.
If you visit Ometepe Island I encourage you to stay at Finca San Juan de la Isla which is located lakeside at Santo Domingo Beach. We stayed in a lakeside bungalow which is a must if you choose this hotel as the sounds of the constantly lapping fresh water waves are magical.

After the return ferry ride back to Rivas we moved on to the Capital City of Granada. We stayed at theย  Hotel Plaza Colon, which is a beautifully refurbished colonial house overlooking Granada’s Central Park. Bring your bathing suit to cool off in their wonderful center court pool.

On the drive to Granada we stopped in Catarina for a ceramic pottery factory tour. The indigenous population has handed down this artwork to the current generation and it is their main livelihood in this area. The pottery in some of the shops is very detailed and exquisite. We did buy several pieces for our home in Florida.

The big body of water is Apoyo Lagoon but if you look into the
distance is Lake Nicaragua. The picture was taken from the city of
Catarina, which is famous for their handmade pottery. The pottery is
absolutely beautiful. We purchased quite a few pieces that will be
shipped to the US.
This is an example of the pottery made in the town of Catarina.

Granada is a Colonial City with a rich history. If you visit Granada I highly recommend having a city tour, as without a guide I would not have learned as much of her History. Since it was so hot we cheated on our walk and hired a horse and carriage for $20. I told Karl it was the best $20 I’ve spent in a long time. An interesting stop was at a tile factory that has been in business since 1905. They make all of the colorful tile around the city, both in buildings and on the sidewalks. They were kind enough to show us their tile making process during our impromptu stop.

This tile factory was opened in 1905 and has been handed down to each subsequent generation. Now the 4th.
A trip would not be complete without a visit to a local cigar factory. Dona Elba Cigars is a cigar factory in Granada providing tours. They even gift each person with a cigar that you can try while you are there. The building is beautiful and has a great breeze to cool off from the Nicaraguan sun.

Two suggestions.ย 

One is to eat at NM Culinary Granada. The food was amazing!
And the second is to buy a half bottle or maybe full bottle of Flor de Caรฑa from the bar at Hotel Plaza Colon and smoke your cigar, that you were gifted from the Doรฑa Elba Cigar Factory, while sitting on the patio in front of Granada’s central park. You won’t be disappointed.

After two nights in Granada our trip led us to Estili. It is the location of most of the cigar factories in Nicaragua. Karl’s goal was to visit the Padron Cigar Factory but to his disappointment they are extremely private and do not have tours. In fact, they do not sell their cigars in Nicaragua. They are all exported. (So, we found a) cigar factory tour in Estili and (found) some good quality cigars to bring back with us.

(We had) an amazing tour of AJ Fernandez Cigar Factory. Mario was our English speaking guide. After working for AJ Fernandez for 7 years, he has learned and is able to explain the cigar process in detail. His background is that he has an Agriculture Degree, so he can answer specific questions about the process that I don’t think you would get in other locations. It takes about 5 years and 300 hands to produce one cigar. The facility is enormous and the process is just as complicated as making wine or whiskey. He used those analogies throughout the tour. I was not aware of the detail that goes into each batch of cigars. The tour lasted about an hour and I would rate this as one of our top factory tours. Technically, purchasing cigars is not possible, but in Nicaragua everything is possible. Estili is a bit out of the tourist zone but completely worth the stop.

They have over 1 million cigars in this one room.
The tobacco is monitored for 1-3 years during the tobacco’s fermentation process.

This is just one of the rooms that processes the tobacco. This is sorting room for the tobacco that becomes the wrapper.

As of this publication, Karl and Natalie are continuing north to Leon, Nicaragua.ย  ย Karl and Natalie finish by sharing:

As Posse members we are making our way to Flor de Caรฑa hoping to purchase some well aged rum.ย ย (Excellent idea!!)

Southern and middle Nicaragua have been beautiful and I am thankful we are able to spend 10 days touring this wonderful country.

SV REMEDY ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ Karl & Natalie Leibensperger – 2019 Leopard 45

THANK YOU SV REMEDY FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURE ALONG THE WAY!

Ocean Posse Members, please share your stories by sending them toย editor@oceanposse.com.

Maurisa, the editor, is always happy to receive your stories and share them out.ย  Together we can inspire one another!