FRANCE 🇫🇷 CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN & CORSICA WITH THE OCEAN POSSE
Cruising the French Mediterranean coast is an unforgettable experience, offering yacht owners an enticing blend of cultural heritage, natural beauty, and opulent coastal lifestyle. Here, I’ll break down key regions and destinations along the coast, each rich in history, flavor, and experiences tailored to adventurous yachtsmen. From the border of Italy to the allure of the French Riviera and westward toward the Camargue, this stretch of coast embodies the timeless appeal of Mediterranean sailing.
1. Introduction to the French Mediterranean Coast
The French Mediterranean coast, also known as the Côte d’Azur, stretches approximately 550 kilometers from the Italian border near Menton to the western shores of the Camargue region, famed for its salt marshes and wildlife. This region has long been a favorite for cruisers worldwide, celebrated for its scenic beauty, luxurious coastal cities, and charming fishing villages. The coast presents a variety of experiences, from the glitzy glamour of Saint-Tropez and Cannes to the more rustic, windswept shores of the Camargue. Each destination invites exploration, providing anchorage options suitable for all sizes of vessels and the amenities needed by modern cruisers.
2. The Riviera: Glitz, Glamour, and Tranquil Anchorages
Monaco and Menton
Starting near the Italian border, Monaco is an iconic yachting hub. The Port Hercule in Monaco offers one of the most famous harbors, surrounded by the city’s stunning skyline and opulent lifestyle. While the berths here are in high demand, it’s a worthwhile visit, especially for those who want to experience Monaco’s dining, shopping, and cultural attractions, such as the Oceanographic Museum and the Prince’s Palace.
Nearby, the town of Menton offers a quieter, more laid-back experience with picturesque old-town streets, colorful Mediterranean houses, and vibrant gardens. The town is known for its unique blend of French and Italian influences, offering cruisers a taste of both cultures.
Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer
As you continue westward, Nice is a must-stop for its beautiful Promenade des Anglais and vibrant old town. Nice’s Port Lympia is a central hub with access to fantastic restaurants, bars, and the region’s best art museums, including the Matisse Museum and the Marc Chagall National Museum.
Villefranche-sur-Mer, just around the corner from Nice, is one of the most picturesque bays along the French Riviera. Its deep, natural harbor makes it ideal for anchoring larger vessels, and the town itself is charming, with medieval streets and a strong artistic legacy. Cruisers here can explore the 16th-century Citadel and enjoy the turquoise waters surrounding Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, a peninsula dotted with luxurious villas.
Antibes and Cannes
Antibes is a yachting paradise with Port Vauban, Europe’s largest marina, and home to impressive yachts from around the world. The old town offers a more authentic feel, with vibrant markets, the Picasso Museum, and a labyrinth of narrow streets. For yacht owners looking to refuel or resupply, Antibes has numerous services and one of the best reputations for yacht facilities on the French coast.
Continuing westward, Cannes is synonymous with glamour. Famous for its international film festival, Cannes is lively and luxurious, with upscale boutiques, gourmet dining, and beautiful beaches. The old port offers anchorage options for yachts, but for those looking for tranquility, the nearby Lérins Islands offer pristine waters and quiet anchorages. Île Sainte-Marguerite and Île Saint-Honorat are perfect for day trips, with opportunities to swim, snorkel, and explore the islands’ trails.
Saint-Tropez and Port Grimaud
Saint-Tropez needs no introduction, as it is emblematic of the French Riviera’s glamour. Though bustling with tourists, the charm of its old fishing village roots remains. Saint-Tropez Harbor is a highlight for cruisers, though anchoring spots can be hard to secure in peak season. Those looking for a quieter stay can head to nearby anchorages such as Baie de Canoubiers or the picturesque Pampelonne Beach, ideal for sunbathing and enjoying the region’s laid-back, beach-chic lifestyle.
Close to Saint-Tropez, Port Grimaud, known as the “Venice of Provence,” is a unique town built along canals and is accessible only by boat. Its pastel-colored buildings and tranquil waterways create a romantic atmosphere, perfect for a peaceful overnight stay.
3. The Var and Provence: From Cassis to the Calanques
Cassis
As you head westward from the French Riviera, you’ll encounter Cassis, a gem known for its dramatic cliffs and vineyards. The port here is charming but relatively small, so early reservations are recommended. Cassis is famous for its white wine, so it’s worth spending time ashore to enjoy a tasting.
The Calanques National Park
One of the highlights of cruising the Provence coast is the Calanques National Park, a series of rugged inlets with steep cliffs plunging into turquoise waters. Stretching from Cassis to Marseille, the Calanques are best explored by boat, as they offer secluded anchorages and are accessible only by sea. Popular calanques like En-Vau, Port-Miou, and Sormiou are ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and hiking ashore.
Yacht owners should note that anchoring in the Calanques is regulated to protect the fragile environment, so checking local guidelines is essential. The beauty of this area makes it well worth the effort, with opportunities to anchor in crystal-clear waters beneath limestone cliffs.
4. Marseille and the Îles du Frioul
As France’s second-largest city and a historical port, Marseille has much to offer. The Vieux-Port (Old Port) is steeped in history and provides easy access to the city’s cultural landmarks, including the Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica and the historic Le Panier district.
Just offshore from Marseille are the Frioul Islands, a group of four islands with sandy beaches and calm waters. These islands are a favorite for Marseille locals and are a great spot to anchor, especially for those looking to escape the city’s bustling pace. The Îles du Frioul also offer fascinating history, including the Château d’If, the island fortress made famous by Alexandre Dumas’s The Count of Monte Cristo.
5. The Camargue and the Rhône Delta
Moving west, the coast transforms as you enter the Camargue, a wild and scenic delta region where the Rhône River meets the Mediterranean. The Camargue is famous for its unique landscape of salt flats, marshes, and grasslands, home to white horses, pink flamingos, and traditional French cowboys known as gardians.
Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhône is one of the main harbors, and though it doesn’t have the same luxury appeal as the Riviera, it offers a different side of French cruising. The town is a gateway to the Camargue’s natural wonders and is also an access point for the Rhône River, allowing cruisers to journey inland toward Avignon and other Provençal towns.
6. Practical Tips for Cruising the French Mediterranean Coast
Best Time to Visit
The Mediterranean cruising season peaks from May to September, with July and August being the busiest months. During these months, reservations at popular harbors are essential. The shoulder seasons—April to early June and September to October—offer milder weather and fewer crowds, making them ideal for a quieter cruising experience.
Weather and Sea Conditions
The Mistral wind is a significant factor along the French coast, especially in the Provence and Camargue regions. This powerful, cold wind can appear suddenly, so it’s essential to monitor weather forecasts closely and plan anchorages accordingly. The coast’s topography also creates sheltered spots, particularly along the Riviera and the Calanques.
Customs and Etiquette
The French Mediterranean coast welcomes yachtsmen with a blend of formality and friendliness. When approaching smaller ports or anchorages, courtesy calls to harbormasters are appreciated, as many popular spots fill quickly. Additionally, respecting local regulations, particularly in protected areas like the Calanques, ensures the preservation of these beautiful locations for future cruisers
Corsica boasts an impressive variety of terrains, from lush forests and rugged mountains to pristine beaches and hidden coves. This 3000-word guide will cover Corsica’s main regions for cruising, essential information on anchorages and marinas, the local culture, practical tips, and must-visit destinations to enhance the journey.
1. An Introduction to Corsica
Corsica lies in the Mediterranean, to the southeast of mainland France and north of the Italian island of Sardinia. While politically part of France, the island has a distinct cultural heritage, with a history shaped by various influences, including Italian, Genoese, and French. This unique blend of cultures is reflected in Corsica’s architecture, cuisine, and even language, as many locals still speak Corsican alongside French. The island’s allure is amplified by its dramatic natural scenery, and its diverse coastline spans over 1,000 kilometers, offering endless opportunities for exploration by sea.
Corsica is divided into several cruising regions, each offering its own set of attractions and points of interest:
- The Cap Corse Peninsula in the north
- The West Coast, with rugged cliffs and the Gulf of Porto
- The South, including the Gulf of Ajaccio, Bonifacio, and the Lavezzi Islands
- The East Coast, featuring long, sandy beaches and calmer waters
2. Planning Your Journey and the Best Time to Cruise
The Mediterranean climate provides warm and dry summers, with peak cruising season from May through September. However, late spring and early autumn are also favorable, with milder temperatures and fewer crowds. Corsica’s position makes it accessible from mainland France, Italy, and the neighboring island of Sardinia. Winds can be variable around Corsica, with the Mistral from the northwest sometimes bringing strong gusts, so checking weather forecasts and wind patterns is crucial when planning to sail around the island’s coast.
Corsica offers both well-equipped marinas and secluded anchorages, allowing for a blend of luxury and isolation. Many towns along the coast have marinas with full services, but there are also quieter bays ideal for anchoring overnight.
3. Key Cruising Regions in Corsica
Cap Corse – The Wild North
Cap Corse, a narrow peninsula at Corsica’s northern tip, is known for its rugged beauty and undeveloped landscapes. The winds here can be strong, making it ideal for experienced sailors. Highlights in this area include:
- Macinaggio: The largest marina on Cap Corse, Macinaggio offers good shelter and facilities for yachts, making it an ideal starting point to explore the peninsula. The town is quaint and traditional, with nearby beaches and walking trails.
- Centuri: A small fishing village on the western coast of Cap Corse, Centuri is famed for its lobster and seafood cuisine. The port is picturesque, though smaller, suitable for a short visit to enjoy the village’s charm.
- Erbalunga: Located south of Macinaggio, Erbalunga is known for its old Genoese tower and scenic setting. This small harbor allows for anchorage nearby, and the town’s beauty has made it popular among artists and photographers.
The Gulf of Saint-Florent and Desert des Agriates
Southwest of Cap Corse lies the Gulf of Saint-Florent, a popular destination for sailors due to its mix of vibrant nightlife, clear waters, and proximity to the Desert des Agriates, an area of stunning, untouched natural beauty. Key spots include:
- Saint-Florent: Often referred to as “Little Saint-Tropez,” Saint-Florent’s marina is well-equipped and close to a lively town center. Known for its restaurants, cafes, and vineyards, the town has a festive atmosphere in summer, and its nearby beaches, like Saleccia and Loto, are famous for their white sands.
- Desert des Agriates: For those looking for a more isolated experience, the Desert des Agriates offers rugged landscapes and remote beaches. Plage de Saleccia is accessible only by boat or by an off-road vehicle, making it an excellent spot for a peaceful anchorage.
The Gulf of Calvi and the West Coast
The western coast of Corsica is known for its dramatic cliffs, red granite rock formations, and UNESCO-listed landscapes. Some highlights along the west coast include:
- Calvi: The Gulf of Calvi, with its picturesque Citadel overlooking the town, is one of Corsica’s most iconic destinations. Calvi’s marina offers excellent facilities, and the town itself has a vibrant atmosphere with restaurants, bars, and historical sites. The nearby Scandola Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is accessible by boat and is renowned for its volcanic rock formations, caves, and rich marine life.
- Girolata: South of Calvi lies the tiny fishing village of Girolata, accessible only by boat or foot. Girolata is set within the Scandola Nature Reserve, making it a fantastic destination for nature lovers. Mooring buoys are provided to protect the underwater ecosystem, allowing cruisers to explore the reserve’s waters without damaging the environment.
Ajaccio and the Gulf of Sagone
Further south, the Gulf of Ajaccio and surrounding areas offer a mix of historical interest and natural beauty.
- Ajaccio: Corsica’s capital and birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, Ajaccio is a lively city with a bustling port, marinas, and ample services for yachts. The town has a unique blend of French and Italian influences, with museums, markets, and cafes offering a rich cultural experience. Ajaccio also provides an ideal starting point for exploring the nearby Îles Sanguinaires, a small archipelago with remarkable sunsets and protected wildlife.
- Sagone and Cargèse: Further north along the coast, these two towns offer quieter anchorages. Cargèse is especially interesting, known for its dual churches—one Greek Orthodox and one Catholic—a reminder of the town’s Greek heritage. The surrounding beaches and the Gulf of Sagone are perfect for swimming and relaxing.
Bonifacio and the Southern Coast
The southern coast of Corsica is a highlight for many cruisers, with its crystal-clear waters, marine life, and proximity to the Lavezzi Islands.
- Bonifacio: Known for its dramatic limestone cliffs and medieval old town, Bonifacio is one of Corsica’s most famous destinations. The port is set in a narrow fjord-like inlet, surrounded by high cliffs, providing a unique and sheltered anchorage. The old town, perched atop the cliffs, offers panoramic views, and exploring its winding streets feels like stepping back in time. Bonifacio is also a short sail away from the Lavezzi Islands, a protected marine reserve with stunning underwater biodiversity.
- Lavezzi Islands: A popular destination for snorkeling and diving, the Lavezzi Islands are known for their clear waters and granite rock formations. This protected area has several bays suitable for anchoring, but sailors should be mindful of regulations designed to protect the ecosystem. The islands are also near the Strait of Bonifacio, which separates Corsica from Sardinia.
The East Coast – Tranquil Beaches and Family-Friendly Destinations
The east coast of Corsica is relatively flat compared to the rugged west, and it features long sandy beaches and more sheltered waters. This area is ideal for families and those looking for calm anchorages.
- Porto-Vecchio: Known for its beautiful beaches like Palombaggia and Santa Giulia, Porto-Vecchio is one of Corsica’s most famous resort areas. The marina in Porto-Vecchio is well-equipped, and the town has a lively atmosphere with shops, cafes, and a charming old quarter. The beaches near Porto-Vecchio are known for their shallow, clear waters and fine sand, making them ideal for families.
- Solenzara: A quieter alternative to Porto-Vecchio, Solenzara has a marina and is located near the Bavella mountain range. The town is a good base for both coastal and inland excursions, with nearby river swimming spots and scenic trails.
4. Practical Tips for Cruising in Corsica
Anchorages and Marinas
While Corsica offers numerous anchorages, many of its protected areas, like the Scandola Reserve and the Lavezzi Islands, have mooring buoys to minimize environmental impact. It’s essential to be aware of local regulations, as anchoring in certain marine reserves is restricted. The larger marinas in towns like Ajaccio, Calvi, and Porto-Vecchio have full services, but it’s advisable to book ahead during the peak season, as berths fill quickly.
Weather Considerations
Corsica’s weather is generally stable in summer, but the island’s mountainous interior can create localized weather patterns. The west coast is more exposed to winds, particularly the Mistral, while the east coast tends to be calmer. Regularly checking weather forecasts is essential, especially if planning to explore more exposed areas or the Cap Corse peninsula.
Supplies and Provisioning
Major ports like Ajaccio, Bastia, and Calvi offer supermarkets and shops for provisioning. However, smaller towns and remote areas may have limited options, so it’s wise to stock up on essentials in larger towns. Corsica is known for its local products, including cheeses, wines, and charcuterie, making provisioning an enjoyable part of the journey.
Respecting Local Culture and Environment
Corsicans are proud of their island’s natural beauty and cultural heritage. Respecting local customs, especially in more traditional towns and rural areas, is appreciated. Additionally, adhering to regulations in marine reserves helps protect Corsica’s unique ecosystems, ensuring that future generations of sailors can enjoy these pristine waters.
MARINAS
CORSICA
WEATHER
Swell
PILOT CHARTS
Mediterranean Pilot Charts provide historic points and aggregated information of wind flows, air and ocean temperatures, wave heights, rain, barometric weight, and climate conditions at various seasons. This data was acquired from oceanographic and meteorologic perceptions over hundreds of years starting in the late eighteenth century. These diagrams are planned to help mariners choose routes around and approaching Cuba with respect to the normal climate and sea conditions using prevailing seasonal wind information.
PORTS OF ENTRY
DOCUMENTS
MUST SEE
SOUTH OF FRANCE
- Pont du Gard (Vers-Pont-du-Gard): An ancient Roman aqueduct bridge renowned for its architectural ingenuity.
- Historic Fortified City of Carcassonne (Carcassonne): A medieval citadel with impressive ramparts and a storied history.
- Canal du Midi: A 17th-century canal connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, celebrated for its engineering excellence.
- Avignon’s Historic Centre (Avignon): Home to the Papal Palace, a testament to the city’s ecclesiastical significance.
- Arles, Roman and Romanesque Monuments (Arles): Features well-preserved Roman structures, including an amphitheatre and baths.
- Episcopal City of Albi (Albi): Dominated by the Sainte-Cécile Cathedral, showcasing southern Gothic architecture.
- Decorated Grotto of Pont d’Arc (Chauvet Cave) (Vallon-Pont-d’Arc): Contains prehistoric cave paintings dating back over 30,000 years.
- The Loire Valley between Sully-sur-Loire and Chalonnes: Known as the “Garden of France,” this area is dotted with historic towns and châteaux.
- Bordeaux, Port of the Moon (Bordeaux): Celebrated for its classical and neoclassical architecture along the Garonne River.
- Cirque de Gavarnie (Gavarnie): A natural amphitheatre in the Pyrenees, offering breathtaking landscapes.
- Saint-Émilion Jurisdiction (Saint-Émilion): A medieval town renowned for its vineyards and monolithic church.
- Gulf of Porto: Calanche of Piana, Gulf of Girolata, Scandola Reserve (Corsica): A coastal area noted for its dramatic cliffs and marine biodiversity.
- Orange’s Roman Theatre and Triumphal Arch (Orange): Exemplary Roman monuments reflecting the city’s ancient heritage.
- Mont Perdu (Pyrenees): A mountain massif straddling France and Spain, featuring deep canyons and diverse flora.
- Cité Radieuse by Le Corbusier (Marseille): A pioneering example of modernist architecture.
- Gordes (Gordes): A picturesque hilltop village known for its stone buildings and narrow streets.
- Sénanque Abbey (Gordes): A 12th-century Cistercian abbey surrounded by lavender fields.
- Nîmes Arena (Nîmes): One of the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres, still in use today.
- Camargue Natural Park (Camargue): A vast wetland area famous for its wild horses, flamingos, and unique ecosystem.
- Verdon Gorge (Provence): Often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Europe,” ideal for hiking and kayaking.
- Eze Village (Èze): A medieval village perched on a hilltop, offering panoramic views of the Mediterranean.
- Saint-Paul-de-Vence (Saint-Paul-de-Vence): An art lover’s haven, this fortified village has inspired numerous artists.
- Calanques National Park (Marseille to Cassis): A series of limestone cliffs and turquoise coves along the Mediterranean coast.
- Lascaux Cave (Montignac): Famous for its Paleolithic cave paintings, though the original is closed, a replica is open to visitors.
CORSICA
- Scandola Nature Reserve: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this reserve is known for its red cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and biodiversity. It’s best explored by boat.
- Calanche of Piana: Located near Porto, these striking red granite cliffs and rock formations are carved into unusual shapes by erosion, offering dramatic views over the Gulf of Porto.
- Gulf of Porto: Part of the UNESCO World Heritage area, this gulf features rugged coastlines, vibrant marine life, and stunning sunset views over the Mediterranean.
- Bonifacio: A medieval town perched on limestone cliffs, Bonifacio is famous for its citadel, charming old town, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean, with views stretching to Sardinia on clear days.
- Ajaccio: Corsica’s capital and the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. Key sites include Napoleon’s childhood home, the Ajaccio Cathedral, and the bustling marina.
- Bavella Needles (Aiguilles de Bavella): This mountainous region is known for its jagged peaks and pine forests, perfect for hiking and climbing.
- Cap Corse: Known as “the finger of Corsica,” this peninsula offers a scenic drive, with coastal villages, vineyards, and beaches, such as the picturesque town of Centuri.
- Corte: The historic heart of Corsica, Corte is home to the island’s only university, a dramatic citadel, and the Museum of Corsica, highlighting the island’s culture and history.
- Filitosa: This archaeological site features prehistoric stone carvings, including menhirs (standing stones) that are believed to date back to 6,000 BC, revealing insights into Corsica’s ancient past.
- Restonica Valley: Famous for its mountainous scenery and glacial lakes, such as Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello, this area offers some of Corsica’s best hiking trails.
- La Balagne Region: Known for olive groves, vineyards, and picturesque villages like Sant’Antonino and Pigna, which offer panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and coastlines.
- Nonza Beach: A unique black pebble beach on the west coast of Cap Corse, known for its dramatic appearance and crystal-clear waters.
- Saint-Florent: Often called the “Saint-Tropez of Corsica,” this coastal town offers a charming old harbor, sandy beaches, and access to the stunning Saleccia and Lotu beaches.
- Lavezzi Islands: Located south of Corsica near Bonifacio, these small, protected islands offer pristine beaches, turquoise waters, and excellent snorkeling opportunities.
- The Genoese Towers: Built by the Genoese in the 16th century to defend Corsica’s coastline, these towers dot the island’s landscape, with notable ones in Erbalunga, Porto, and Nonza.
- Cargèse: A coastal town known for its Greek and Latin churches, reflecting its dual heritage, with views over stunning beaches and rugged coastlines.
- Plage de Palombaggia: Considered one of Corsica’s most beautiful beaches, Palombaggia boasts fine white sand, turquoise waters, and picturesque pines.
- Valinco Gulf: This gulf is known for its serene beaches, and the town of Propriano, which offers water sports, coastal hikes, and archaeological sites.
- Sartène: Known as the “most Corsican of Corsican towns,” Sartène is a charming medieval town with cobbled streets, historical architecture, and lively festivals.
- Gorges de la Spelunca: Located between Porto and Evisa, these dramatic gorges offer scenic hiking trails through granite landscapes, including ancient Genoese bridges.
- Fesch Museum (Ajaccio): Named after Napoleon’s uncle, Cardinal Fesch, this museum houses an impressive collection of Italian paintings and Corsican artifacts.
- Aléria: Once the ancient capital of Corsica, Aléria is an important archaeological site featuring Roman ruins and a museum showcasing artifacts from the Roman Empire.
- Ile Rousse: A seaside town with beaches, lively markets, and a historic old town known for its unique red granite rock formations.
- Réserve Naturelle des Bouches de Bonifacio: A marine reserve between Corsica and Sardinia that includes islands, coves, and underwater landscapes, ideal for divers and snorkelers.
REPAIRS AND SERVICE PROVIDERS
The South of France is home to several reputable maritime service providers offering a range of services to meet the needs of seafarers and maritime businesses. Here are some notable companies:
1. MARITIME KUHN
- Services: Ship agency services across all commercial ports in France, managing docking periods, and coordinating the transport of merchandise.
- Location: Marseille
- Website: maritimekuhn.com
2. Caruso Marine Service
- Services: Comprehensive maritime services including engineering solutions, project support, and consulting for shipyards, ferry fleet owners, and operators.
- Location: Milan, Italy (serving the South of France)
- Website: carusomarine.com
3. CMA CGM
- Services: Global shipping and logistics, including container shipping, terminal operations, and supply chain management.
- Location: Marseille
- Website: cma-cgm.com
4. La Méridionale
- Services: Passenger and freight ferry services connecting Marseille with Corsica and Sardinia.
- Location: Marseille
- Website: lameridionale.fr
5. Corsica Linea
- Services: Passenger, vehicle, and cargo ferry services in the Mediterranean Sea, connecting Marseille with Corsica, Algeria, and Tunisia.
- Location: Marseille
- Website: corsicalinea.com
6. FRS World
- Services: Maritime consultancy, including feasibility studies, development and implementation of logistics concepts, and operation of high-speed catamarans on international ferry routes.
- Location: Flensburg, Germany (serving the South of France)
- Website: frs.world
7. Port de Marseille Fos
- Services: Port authority offering a range of maritime services including cargo handling, logistics, and port operations.
- Location: Marseille
- Website: marseille-port.fr
8. Port Vauban
- Services: Marina services including berthing, maintenance, and yacht management.
- Location: Antibes
- Website: portvauban.com
9. Monaco Marine
- Services: Yacht refit and maintenance services, offering a range of technical services for yachts.
- Location: La Ciotat
- Website: monacomarine.com
10. Sud Marine Shipyard
- Services: Ship repair and maintenance services, including dry docking, mechanical repairs, and painting.
- Location: Marseille
- Website: sudmarineshipyard.com
EMERGENCIES AND SAR INFO