CANAL CROSSING NOTES
CANAL CROSSING NOTES
Many Ocean Posse members cross the Panama Canal at some point on their journey. When this time comes people often wonder about the actual logistics of the transit, what food and beverages make for an easy day and happy line handlers, etc...
SV BRIGADOON III recently crossed the Panama Canal and is sharing the notes they shared of their experience to "give some friends a feel for what to expect and see it from my perspective".
The night before the transit, the four line-handlers arrived with the fenders and lines. One of the line-handlers was (Posse Sponsor and Canal Agent) Erick (Galvarez)’s son, Juan and another was Juan’s uncle “Junior”. Junior seemed to be the head line handler and gave the others direction. They slept one on each salon sofa, one in the aft quarter berth and Junior slept in the cockpit because, as he said, he snores.
The line-handlers arrived on time, as planned, at 6:30 pm and we had dinner ready for them -Spanish style meatballs in a roasted pepper sauce on Orzo, bean-corn salad and grapes for dessert. They devoured everything and all wanted to know what orzo was. They also drank water and Coke. I had read that they like Coke; regular not diet.
We had dinner before they arrived to simplify things. After dinner, they took off and Junior stayed and went to bed. Doug and I also went to bed and didn’t hear a peep from anyone.
We got up at 2:30 am and left the marina at 3:15 am to travel to a point between markers 2 and 4 to pick up our advisor. This area is just outside of Playita Marina. It took a while for Carlos, our advisor, to show up in the big pilot boat but eventually did and readied himself in the rocky seas for a very heroic leap to our boat. Once the advisor was aboard, all the line-handlers, except uncle Junior, went back to bed and we travelled in the dark under the Bridge of the Americas to the first lock which is about 7.5 miles from where we had picked up Carlos at about 4:15 am.
It was just getting light when we entered the first lock. The advisor gave us instructions and explanations for everything we needed to know as we went along, such as what to expect in the lock and that it takes 8 minutes for the water to fill the lock. He also explained how and when we would raft up to the other sailboat we were travelling with.
Because we were up-locking, we would travel behind the commercial ship. At the other end we would be down-locking and would be in front of the commercial ship.
We cleared the third lock at about 8 am so I got the coffee on and had oranges and muffins for everyone to tide them over while I made breakfast - rice and beans, eggs, avocado and salsa plus orange juice and more oranges. They love rice and beans.
As expected, the three younger line handlers went below to bed or rest and we carried on through Gatun Lake passing huge freighters going the opposite way.
At 12 noon and before we got to the Gatun locks, I made lunch - Chicken Chorizo Paella, grapes and watermelon. They also had water, coke and orange juice. Again, they gobbled it all up and helped with the dishes. Phew, no more dinners. We continued through the Gatun locks and about 20 minutes later the pilot boat showed up for Carlos the advisor. The three line-handlers continued on with us to Shelter Bay and Erick was waiting for them to transport them back home.
I want to add a comment on the line-handlers. Generally, when they are not needed, they are happy to hang out inside the boat. They were professional, tidy and kept their bags away and out of sight. They seemed to have a sixth sense of when they were needed as they would appear topsides, ready to work, out of nowhere. I suspect Erick has coached them because they were quiet, pleasant and thanked me for every meal. As for food, they liked the rice dishes and fruit. They had seconds of these dishes and they can pack away the food. They were not too interested in sweets such as muffins but did eat a bit of the chocolate that I had. According to Erick, they also like pasta. Remember, lunch is their main meal of the day. They appreciate water and Coke and enjoyed the orange juice I had.
SV SUMMERBREEZE followed in the wake of SV BRIGADOON III and found the notes super helpful.
SY BRIGADOON III Doug & Patty – Saga 43’ & MV SUMMERBREEZE 🇺🇸 Sam & Kurtis - Bestway 46'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR NOTES AND YOUR COMMUNITY SPIRIT WITH ONE ANOTHER!
ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND PART 1
ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND
PART 1: ISLA TABOGA
Cruisers visiting Panama find adventures on land and out on the water. Over the years Posse members have collectively seen so much of what the country has to offer. There are so many great adventures to chose from. A quick list includes: Isla Taboga, the mountain towns of Boquette and El Valle, the Canal Museum in Casco Viejo, the sloth sanctuary in the Gamboa Reserve, cruising the Coiba group, cruising the Perlas Islands, walking up Ancon hill overlooking Panama City, touring the Miraflores Lochs....and many many more. Part 1 of ADVENTURES IN PANAMA ABOUND will explore the interesting history and adventure opportunities at Isla Taboga, Panama.
Rich in historical significance and boasting a relaxed getaway charm, Isla Taboga is an excellent place to visit near Panama City. The island is so close to the city that there are multiple daily 30 minute ferries that bring people to and from the island for $17 round trip. People visit to enjoy the beach, restaurants, hotels, multiple hiking trails, and the history.
Isla Taboga was discovered in 1513 by the Spanish explorer Vasco Nunez de Balboa. Many subsequent explorers who crossed the Atlantic from Seville, Spain would disembark in what is now Portobello on the Caribbean coast of Panama, cross the isthmus of Panama on foot or by horseback until they reached Panama City. They would then board canoes to the galleons anchored off Taboga. Deep waters with good holding surround the island and made it an excellent place for large vessels to find safe harbor from which to explore and conquer new lands near and far.
Like the ships of old the same anchorage is used today by modern transporters awaiting passage through the Panama Canal.
Going back 500 years again: By 1524 Father Hernando de Luque founded a church in the center of town and christened the town San Pedro. The Church, while noted for being one of the oldest churches in the Western Hemisphere, is still standing and well cared for.
|
|
In the late 1500’s the island was renamed Taboga. “Aboga” means “abundant fish” in the indigenous language of Taboga’s early inhabitants. In the 1500’s many of Taboga’s inhabitants on record were slaves from Venezuela and Nicaragua. The first Catholic saint of the Americas is said to have been born on the Island. There is a cross in her honor on a hilltop with a beautiful view. Today many people think of Taboga as the ”Island of Flowers” for all the flowers cascading over walls (from the most well maintained to the ancient, crumbling ones) and growing in the jungle. The island is 12 square km; town itself, like many on the nearby islands, is quite densely packed and surrounded by wild jungle.
|
Today, one can travel along all the residential footpaths or in golf carts on the narrow streets in an afternoon and could spend days and days meandering through the jungle in search of treasure, wildlife, or relics of the past. |
|
Treasure: Early prosperity turned Taboga into a target for piracy. In the 1600’s pirates became a formidable force in the area and Taboga was no stranger to their presence and pillaging. Infamous Pirate Henry Morgan among others is said to have sacked the island and used it as a base while attempting to sack Panama City and other nearby islands. Legend has it that there are ashes of pirates inside the walls of the church and treasures buried on the island. One can walk to a monument called Los Tres Cruzes to see the three graves of pirates that attempted to disturb the peace on Taboga. They lost their lives in the fight and have remained as a symbol to all who visit. Taboga is not to be sacked ever again. Wildlife: Taboga is a volcanic Island that rises above the sea with a dense and healthy tropical forest. While hiking through the forest we were treated to many (74) poison dart frog sightings, the smell of flowers, the sound of rain paddling the canopy overhead, the refreshing cool of mist hanging in the air slowly dripping down to the dark brown forest floor. On the highest peak we enjoyed being at eye level with the largest and smallest of birds, from the black headed vultures to bright green teeny-tiny hummingbirds. Relics of the past: In the 1840’s the Pacific Mail and Steamship Company set up a shipping company on Taboga thinking they would move mail and produce throughout the region. They ended up moving gold and gold diggers to and from California during the Gold Rush. There are remnants of their shipyard operation on Isla Morro which is connected to Taboga by a sand spit. In 1885 a medical center was built on the island while the French were making their attempt at the Panama Canal construction. Many workers would take ill and go to Tabogo for care and quarantine. While convalescing on Taboga, French painter Paul Gauguin, painted a scene of the bay that is appreciated to this day. Additionally, the US military build a base on the island during WWII. A bunker was built on the highest point with a 360 degree view that today offers a welcome breeze and incredible views of Taboga Bay, Panama City, the perlas Islands, and ships awaiting Canal transit. |
CARIBBEAN LAP REPORT SV JUBEL
SV JUBEL'S CARIBBEAN LAP
SV JUBEL just finished their 1 year lap around the Caribbean. BRAVO ZULU! Here they share their story:
We are currently in progress building an HH44 Catamaran in Cebu, Philippines, which will be completed in January 2026. It's our plan to cross the Pacific to meet the boat so we can move aboard directly from JUBEL. But we didn’t come all this way from Vancouver island to skip the Caribbean. Having crossed the (Panama) Canal in September 2023, we spent some time in Bocas del Toro, the San Blas, Panama, and Cartagena, Columbia. Knowing we wanted to see the Caribbean, we decided to do a speed loop of the Windward and Leeward Islands.
The trip started from Cartagena, Colombia and we set off for Puerto Rico, or maybe the DR, on March 26th, 2024. We didn’t know where we would end up. We had heard this passage was notoriously bad, and that we may have to divert westward. So loaded with 8 extra jerry cans of diesel, we set off, along with our friends on SV VIA, a Caliber 40LRC (that holds 400+ gallons of diesel!) This trip was exactly what they say it was. We motored for 700 miles, into the wind and the waves. At times doing 3 knots. We broke our davits due to the constant slamming into the waves. We also had some flat calm days. Overall, we sailed about 10 hours out of the entire 6 days.
We ended up in Boquerón, Puerto Rico. We spent time cruising Puerto Rico for a month along the southern side of Puerto Rico, and flew home in (to Canada) in May. Our highlights are Isla Caja De Muertos, where you can hike up to the top of an abandoned lighthouse, and Isla Culebra for its snorkeling and coral farms, and of course, Costco in San Juan.
With our boat loaded with a years worth of Costco supplies in Puerto Rico we made our way to the USVI’s where it was a surprise that they drive on the opposite side of the road. We spent a few days in St. Thomas, of course, stopping at the pizza boat where we attended a massive memorial day party hosted on a catamaran while we floated in the water.
A few days on the northern side of St. Johns before making our way to the BVIs. We have a dog on board so this was pretty difficult to sort out, as you have to have a lot of paperwork and health check proofs. We met the vet in Soper’s hole where he had to inspect Ricky, our dog, in person. Once that was dealt with we made our way to pussers for a rum! This was the first island we considered “the Caribbean”, and we made it!
We spent three weeks bouncing around the BVIs including Norman Island (and the infamous Willy Ts, where we floated behind it in our Sunchill, met friends, and had beers thrown into our pool!
Anchoring at the Baths, (where our engine died coming into the anchorage, that turned out to be ricky leaning on the shutoff button!), and spending time in Virgin Gorda was also great. Our favorite anchorages were Savannah bay, and the north side of Prickly Pear Island. Having the Rum Runner bring us blended cocktails right to our boat was (also) a highlight, along with visits to Saba Rock.
From The BVIs we checked out and headed to St. Martin, stopping at the French side first. The beaches here were phenomenal. While a little run down, its very pretty, and the French food supply is amazing. We had FKG rigging come out to the boat by dinghy to give us an estimate for the standing rigging replacement that we needed. They gave us a very, very reasonable estimate and we headed over to their dock on the dutch side to have the work done. A week later, everything was brand new. Highly recommend them! We also had a new generator motor shipped here and replaced that, as our previous one had water ingress due to a manufacturing defect. St. Maarten is an amazing location for boat work and supply, especially since its all tax free. There are also great restaurants here, where we met up with some other Young Cruisers and talked shop, so we will definitely come back at some point. St. Maarten is a hit on our list!
Our next stop was Guadeloupe. It was here that we rode out hurricane Beryl. On the west side of the island behind the mountain, we set out a 10-1 scope in 20 feet of water. Luckily (for us, certainly not the islands south of us) it headed south. We were hit with 35 knots of wind and a ton of rain, but otherwise, unscathed. After the weather cleared, the view was beautiful.
We worked our way down Guadeloupe, and anchored in some very rolly anchorages - There is not much for protection on this side of the island. We stopped in several hot springs and enjoyed the natural hot water that comes out all over the island. After an absolutely brutal sail crossing from Guadeloupe to Terre-de-Haut, a group of small islands south of Guadeloupe, we went to explore and island and old fort. There is a really cute little town (but not much for food available) that you can explore.
From there we made our way to the jewel of the Caribbean, Dominica. I can not say enough about this place. It is, by far, our favourite locale in the caribbean. Absolutely untouched and unspoiled. There were no tourists, the locals were the friendliest people we have ever met, and would do anything for you. The natural beauty of this island is absolutely stunning.Waterfalls, valleys, hot springs, gorges - It has it all.
What it doesn’t have are services, restaurants, fuel docks, or supply shops. You are on your own. So bring what you need, and stay as long as you can. We grabbed a mooring ball in Portsmouth bay for $10 a night, where the PAY (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) will come out to the boat and give you anything you need, and help you check in. We rented a car from a local company (that we had to swap out three times because they were not in great shape - Old cars imported from Japan), they also drive on the British side of the road (in Dominica). Its like driving in the game “crazy taxi”. We drove all over the island over 5 days.
We went to visit Titou gorge where they filmed parts of the Pirates of the Caribbean
Overall, Dominica gets a 10/10 for us. We will be back to this island before our cruising career is over. Its got so much to offer, and so much that we haven’t seen, for a small island. Our provisions were running low so it was time to carry on. We made our way to Martinique from here, where we knew we could provision. And provision we did. Wine, cheese, butter, oh my. The French have food nailed down. We were here during a summer festival and I have never seen so many boats on the move, ever.
Martinique was the busiest place we’d ever been. The bays were full, with hundreds if not thousands of boats. It was way too busy for us. And they’re very not dog friendly. So after we provisioned, we carried on down to Grenada. We skipped St. Lucia for safety concerns, and therefore had to skip St. Vincent and the Grenadines due to our dog and rabies rules. That, and its been hit hard by Beryl at this point.
Grenada became our home for about a month and a half while we waited for hurricane season to subside slightly. The next stop after this was Bonaire, so hurricanes weren’t a big concern. We met up with friends, enjoyed copious wing nights, went snorkeling, and hauled out because we had won a free haul out from Spice Island Marine at the Young Cruisers Association Cruisers Awards. We were here for Carnival which was amazing.
We had tried out all the anchorages and there was a weather window coming. It was September at this point, so it was time to carry on to Bonaire. After a sporty 3 day sail downwind (oh how nice it was to go downwind finally, after beating our way east all the way to Dominica), we arrived in Bonaire. The water clarity blew our minds.
However, the lack of Starlink was frustrating after having it for so long. So back to a cell phone data plan we went, we spent our days snorkeling and swimming. We rented a car and drove around the whole island, stopping to feed the roadside donkeys apples and carrots.
Bonaire was definitely another highlight. The freediving and snorkeling is amazing. Its everything its cracked up to be.
We skipped Curacao and headed to Aruba to meet friends and for my parents to fly in. We loved Aruba - Dove on a shipwreck, swam with turtles, went out to fantastic restaurants, played some slot machines, had some pool days at the Hyatt pool, and even found a Canadian bar that had Poutine and took Canadian money!
Now here we are in Cartagena once again, having crossed our track when we left 8 months ago, so very happy we traveled where we did and saw what we saw. The experiences will stick with us forever, and we hope to go back to some of the islands once again in the future. Now, its time to go back to San Blas one more time before we prepare for our grand adventure across the Pacific!
SY JUBEL 🇨🇦 Leah & Kyle - Gulfstar 44'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR HIGHLIGHTS FROM YOUR 8 MONTH CARIBBEAN LOOP
MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE
MEET THE FLEET: SV GARGOYLE
Kevin & Carla
From the moment Kevin and Carla departed Vancouver BC on May 31, 2019, their first “real” goal was to be in Barra de Navidad in time for the 2019 Panama Posse kickoff meeting at the end of November. That first five months and 4,000 + NM set the tone for the crew of SV Gargoyle, a 2011 Beneteau Oceanis 50. Kevin, Carla, along with their two cats, Sam and Dean, have been sailing proudly under a Posse banner of one flavor or another ever since.
2020 highlights included being locked down in Puesta del Sol, Nicaragua with a number of other posse members. Once they were allowed to leave, Gargoyle beat upwind for nine days to the Galapagos to be one of the first yachts post-COVID to be allowed into these magical islands. After two months in paradise with the islands to themselves, it was time to head East for their first Panama Canal transit and a planned May 2021 Atlantic transit. Insert the Omnicom variant into the story and with Portugal telling them they wouldn’t be allowed into the Azores; they made a 180 degree turn back to Panama for canal transit number two. The decision was now to go the other way to the Med, via the Pacific!
Departing from Marina Papagayo in March 2022 with Dietmar wishing us fair winds from the dock, Gargoyle made a 30-day passage to Nuku Hiva, followed by a season cruising French Polynesia and Fiji. Spending cyclone season in New Zealand, they experienced not one but two cyclones. Leary of the Red Sea they decided to ship Gargoyle with Posse Partner Sevenstar Yacht Transport from Auckland to Cork Ireland in May 2023.
After Gargoyle made her 3rd Panama Canal transit, albeit without her crew, what followed was a magical summer in Ireland and Scotland before a late summer run to Spain, Portugal and then the Med. A winter in Tunisia followed by this season’s cruising in Malta, Sicily, Italy, up to Venice, Greece and now where they sit anchored off Bodrum, Turkey. 24 countries, 40,000NM and yes, Sam and Dean are still rocking it with their human crew.
Follow us on....
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sv_gargoyle/
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/svgargoyle50
YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOihVJ744XS4CoB71HixcFw/
Kevin and Carla are always available as well for a call or email exchange with their fellow cruisers. sailinggargoyle@gmail.com
SV GARGOYLE 🇨🇦 Kevin & Carla - Beneteau Oceanis 50
THANK YOU KEVIN & CARLA FOR BEING A PART OF THE POSSE FOR SO MANY YEARS!
POSSE PERK: UP TO DATE AND VERIFIED INFORMATION BY FELLOW YACHTS
POSSE PERK: UP TO DATE &
VERIFIED INFORMATION BY FELLOW YACHTS
Ocean Posse members share a chat group where members ask questions, share informations, and pictures. Members appreciate the 'Up to Date & Verified Information' shared in the group chats.
Recently, Lyle on MV ALGONQUIN asked:
Hello. For those in the know could we get some information on how far out we should be contacting the agent to schedule our canal transit? Rough plan at this point is late December early January transit west to east.
Currently boat less in Canada Vancouver Island preparing the house for rental and disposing excess land assets in preparation for full time live aboard. Returning to the boat in PE mid September.
SV MAISON DE SANTE answered from their experience going through the Panama Canal last season:
I don’t think any time is too early to connect to an agent because you can reach out and get the list of info they will need like photos and measurements for the boat and just be that much more prepared. South to North didn’t start getting busy until mid January last season so picking a transit date would probably be important to do by November. They don’t like changing dates so try to firm it up when you’re closer and pretty certain on a date.
I’ll reach out to Erick Galvez.
.....After Reaching out to Ocean Posse Canal Agent Erick Galvez.....
🇵🇦PANAMÁ CANAL🇵🇦
You must be near the Panamá Canal with a verified arrival either with AIS validation or a photo of your vessel anchored near the canal or at a nearby marina. If anchored, they will visually look for your vessel.
Last season, you were allowed to request a transit date prior to arriving in Panamá and it created too many issues, according to Erick Galvez.
You are allowed to leave once you have your date confirmed. The furthest out you can request your transit date is 2 months.
The average wait time for the earliest transit date is as follows, according to Erick.
December and prior: 3-4 days
January: 5-10 days
February: 10-20 days
March: 20-30 days
THANK YOU FOR ASKING QUESTIONS,
SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCE AND USEFUL INFORMATION
IN THE NEWS ALONG THE ROUTE: PANAMA CANAL TO EXPAND WATER RESERVOIR TO MANAGE TRANSITS RELIABLY
IN THE NEWS ALONG THE ROUTE: PANAMA CANAL TO EXPAND
WATER RESERVOIR TO MANAGE TRANSITS RELIABLY INTO THE FUTURE
Over the years the Panama Canal has had to restrict transits in times of drought and struggled to maintain steady flow of commercial and recreational traffic across the isthmus. While 2023 did not see a decrease in revenue, This decrease in overall daily transits is particularly worrisome for the prospect of maintaining the canal's vital role in global trade and Panama's economy. The stinking point is all about fresh water. The lochs depend upon freshwater and in times of draught as the amount of water available to flush through the lochs decreases, so too must the number of boats moving though decrease. Recently, however, Panamanian authorities approved a watershed expansion project that experts say will "Solve its Water Woes". The expansion project has been under consideration for over two decades. While it is massive in scale, capitol requirements, and repercussions Panamanian authorities believe it is the best path forward.
THE PLAN:
- Dam the Indio River and add a new reservoir that will divert freshwater to Lake Gatun and provide freshwater for human consumption.
THE TIMEFRAME:
- Current assessment: 6 years
THE CAPITAL INVESTMET
- $1.2-$2 billion including $400million relocation and in investments in neighboring communities
THE GOAL:
- According to canal administrator, Ricaurte Vasquez, the project "would provide a little more certainty to maintain 36 transits per day, a higher level of reliability for the route."
Read more about the recent watershed expansion approval here
