CARIBBEAN LAP REPORT SV JUBEL
SV JUBEL'S CARIBBEAN LAP
SV JUBEL just finished their 1 year lap around the Caribbean. BRAVO ZULU! Here they share their story:
We are currently in progress building an HH44 Catamaran in Cebu, Philippines, which will be completed in January 2026. It's our plan to cross the Pacific to meet the boat so we can move aboard directly from JUBEL. But we didn’t come all this way from Vancouver island to skip the Caribbean. Having crossed the (Panama) Canal in September 2023, we spent some time in Bocas del Toro, the San Blas, Panama, and Cartagena, Columbia. Knowing we wanted to see the Caribbean, we decided to do a speed loop of the Windward and Leeward Islands.
The trip started from Cartagena, Colombia and we set off for Puerto Rico, or maybe the DR, on March 26th, 2024. We didn’t know where we would end up. We had heard this passage was notoriously bad, and that we may have to divert westward. So loaded with 8 extra jerry cans of diesel, we set off, along with our friends on SV VIA, a Caliber 40LRC (that holds 400+ gallons of diesel!) This trip was exactly what they say it was. We motored for 700 miles, into the wind and the waves. At times doing 3 knots. We broke our davits due to the constant slamming into the waves. We also had some flat calm days. Overall, we sailed about 10 hours out of the entire 6 days.
We ended up in Boquerón, Puerto Rico. We spent time cruising Puerto Rico for a month along the southern side of Puerto Rico, and flew home in (to Canada) in May. Our highlights are Isla Caja De Muertos, where you can hike up to the top of an abandoned lighthouse, and Isla Culebra for its snorkeling and coral farms, and of course, Costco in San Juan.
With our boat loaded with a years worth of Costco supplies in Puerto Rico we made our way to the USVI’s where it was a surprise that they drive on the opposite side of the road. We spent a few days in St. Thomas, of course, stopping at the pizza boat where we attended a massive memorial day party hosted on a catamaran while we floated in the water.
A few days on the northern side of St. Johns before making our way to the BVIs. We have a dog on board so this was pretty difficult to sort out, as you have to have a lot of paperwork and health check proofs. We met the vet in Soper’s hole where he had to inspect Ricky, our dog, in person. Once that was dealt with we made our way to pussers for a rum! This was the first island we considered “the Caribbean”, and we made it!
We spent three weeks bouncing around the BVIs including Norman Island (and the infamous Willy Ts, where we floated behind it in our Sunchill, met friends, and had beers thrown into our pool!
Anchoring at the Baths, (where our engine died coming into the anchorage, that turned out to be ricky leaning on the shutoff button!), and spending time in Virgin Gorda was also great. Our favorite anchorages were Savannah bay, and the north side of Prickly Pear Island. Having the Rum Runner bring us blended cocktails right to our boat was (also) a highlight, along with visits to Saba Rock.
From The BVIs we checked out and headed to St. Martin, stopping at the French side first. The beaches here were phenomenal. While a little run down, its very pretty, and the French food supply is amazing. We had FKG rigging come out to the boat by dinghy to give us an estimate for the standing rigging replacement that we needed. They gave us a very, very reasonable estimate and we headed over to their dock on the dutch side to have the work done. A week later, everything was brand new. Highly recommend them! We also had a new generator motor shipped here and replaced that, as our previous one had water ingress due to a manufacturing defect. St. Maarten is an amazing location for boat work and supply, especially since its all tax free. There are also great restaurants here, where we met up with some other Young Cruisers and talked shop, so we will definitely come back at some point. St. Maarten is a hit on our list!
Our next stop was Guadeloupe. It was here that we rode out hurricane Beryl. On the west side of the island behind the mountain, we set out a 10-1 scope in 20 feet of water. Luckily (for us, certainly not the islands south of us) it headed south. We were hit with 35 knots of wind and a ton of rain, but otherwise, unscathed. After the weather cleared, the view was beautiful.
We worked our way down Guadeloupe, and anchored in some very rolly anchorages - There is not much for protection on this side of the island. We stopped in several hot springs and enjoyed the natural hot water that comes out all over the island. After an absolutely brutal sail crossing from Guadeloupe to Terre-de-Haut, a group of small islands south of Guadeloupe, we went to explore and island and old fort. There is a really cute little town (but not much for food available) that you can explore.
From there we made our way to the jewel of the Caribbean, Dominica. I can not say enough about this place. It is, by far, our favourite locale in the caribbean. Absolutely untouched and unspoiled. There were no tourists, the locals were the friendliest people we have ever met, and would do anything for you. The natural beauty of this island is absolutely stunning.Waterfalls, valleys, hot springs, gorges - It has it all.
What it doesn’t have are services, restaurants, fuel docks, or supply shops. You are on your own. So bring what you need, and stay as long as you can. We grabbed a mooring ball in Portsmouth bay for $10 a night, where the PAY (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) will come out to the boat and give you anything you need, and help you check in. We rented a car from a local company (that we had to swap out three times because they were not in great shape - Old cars imported from Japan), they also drive on the British side of the road (in Dominica). Its like driving in the game “crazy taxi”. We drove all over the island over 5 days.
We went to visit Titou gorge where they filmed parts of the Pirates of the Caribbean
Overall, Dominica gets a 10/10 for us. We will be back to this island before our cruising career is over. Its got so much to offer, and so much that we haven’t seen, for a small island. Our provisions were running low so it was time to carry on. We made our way to Martinique from here, where we knew we could provision. And provision we did. Wine, cheese, butter, oh my. The French have food nailed down. We were here during a summer festival and I have never seen so many boats on the move, ever.
Martinique was the busiest place we’d ever been. The bays were full, with hundreds if not thousands of boats. It was way too busy for us. And they’re very not dog friendly. So after we provisioned, we carried on down to Grenada. We skipped St. Lucia for safety concerns, and therefore had to skip St. Vincent and the Grenadines due to our dog and rabies rules. That, and its been hit hard by Beryl at this point.
Grenada became our home for about a month and a half while we waited for hurricane season to subside slightly. The next stop after this was Bonaire, so hurricanes weren’t a big concern. We met up with friends, enjoyed copious wing nights, went snorkeling, and hauled out because we had won a free haul out from Spice Island Marine at the Young Cruisers Association Cruisers Awards. We were here for Carnival which was amazing.
We had tried out all the anchorages and there was a weather window coming. It was September at this point, so it was time to carry on to Bonaire. After a sporty 3 day sail downwind (oh how nice it was to go downwind finally, after beating our way east all the way to Dominica), we arrived in Bonaire. The water clarity blew our minds.
However, the lack of Starlink was frustrating after having it for so long. So back to a cell phone data plan we went, we spent our days snorkeling and swimming. We rented a car and drove around the whole island, stopping to feed the roadside donkeys apples and carrots.
Bonaire was definitely another highlight. The freediving and snorkeling is amazing. Its everything its cracked up to be.
We skipped Curacao and headed to Aruba to meet friends and for my parents to fly in. We loved Aruba - Dove on a shipwreck, swam with turtles, went out to fantastic restaurants, played some slot machines, had some pool days at the Hyatt pool, and even found a Canadian bar that had Poutine and took Canadian money!
Now here we are in Cartagena once again, having crossed our track when we left 8 months ago, so very happy we traveled where we did and saw what we saw. The experiences will stick with us forever, and we hope to go back to some of the islands once again in the future. Now, its time to go back to San Blas one more time before we prepare for our grand adventure across the Pacific!
SY JUBEL 🇨🇦 Leah & Kyle - Gulfstar 44'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR HIGHLIGHTS FROM YOUR 8 MONTH CARIBBEAN LOOP
MUST SEE: La Fortaleza & San Juan National Historic Site, Puerto Rico
MUST SEE: La Fortaleza &
San Juan National Historic Site, Puerto Rico
La Fortaleza and San Juan National Historic Site are significant landmarks in San Juan, Puerto Rico, showcasing the island's rich history and colonial heritage. La Fortaleza & San Juan National Historic Site serve as a reminder of Puerto Rico’s role as one of the earliest and last bastions of Spanish dominance in the Americas. Visiting this MUST SEE UNESCO site by boat is best from San Juan Bay.
San Juan Bay is a significant harbor and anchorage point on the north side of Puerto Rico,, known for its deep waters and natural protection. It serves as a popular spot for both commercial and recreational vessels. The bay is surrounded by historic sites, such as La Fortaleza, El Morro and San Cristóbal forts, and offers beautiful views of the city and surrounding areas.
La Fortaleza
La Fortaleza, also known as the Governor's Palace, is the oldest executive mansion in continuous use in the Americas. Built between 1533 and 1540 by order of the Spanish king, Charles V, it served as a fortress to protect the city from pirates and corsairs. In 1846, La Fortaleza was remodeled to become the official residence of the governor. The remodeling was designed by the Spanish architect Fernando Trueba, and the building was given a neoclassical style.
La Fortaleza has been the official residence of 170 governors of Puerto Rico and now stands as the oldest executive residence in the Western Hemisphere. It is a historical and cultural landmark of great importance to the island. In 1983, it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as part of the “La Fortaleza and San Juan National Historic Site”.
San Juan National Historic Site
This historic site encompasses several key components, including the forts of El Morro and San Cristóbal, which were built to defend the city from maritime attacks.
- Fortifications:
- Castillo San Felipe del Morro: A 16th-century fortress that offers stunning views of the ocean and the city. It played a crucial role in the defense of San Juan.
- Castillo San Cristóbal: Built in the 18th century, this fortification was designed to protect against land attacks and is the largest fort built by the Spanish in the Americas.
Both La Fortaleza and the San Juan National Historic Site reflect the historical significance of Puerto Rico in the context of Spanish colonial rule and military strategy in the Caribbean. They are vital for understanding the island's past and its cultural heritage.
EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS
Emergency Communications
By Rob Murray on SV AVANT
Cruisers spend big dollars on emergency communications, and in most cases never use them. What are some of the options, their pros and cons, and use cases aboard?
EPIRB
EPIRBs (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon(s)) are the gold standard in reliability and durability. Designed by an international consortium of search and rescue agencies in the 1980s, these use the SARSAT (Search And Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) system of satellites (a combination of government operated LEOSAR, GEOSAR, and MEOSAR satellites) combined with a network of 29 MCCs (Mission Control Centers) which communicate with national RCCs (Rescue Coordination Centers).
When you activate your EPIRB, a SARSAT satellite will pick up the signal within minutes and relay it to the MCC nearest the satellite via their Local User Terminal. The MCC will relay the transmission to the national authority’s RCC you have registered your EPIRB with (typically your flag country). Then ‘your’ RCC will relay the information to the RCC responsible for the area you are in and reach out to the emergency contacts registered with your beacon, and the RCC local to your location will begin a rescue operation. This is typically done in less than an hour.
COSPAS-SARSAT System Overview
The downside of EPIRBs is they are one-way communicators – they simply relay your call for help, and do not indicate if it’s a fire, sinking, or medical emergency.
Once purchased, EPIRBs are free to operate (no subscription fee), and the only ongoing cost is periodic replacement of the batteries (depends on unit specifications). Most units are water activated, so they should be stored where rain or spray won’t set them off inadvertently. They are specified to operate for a minimum of 48 hours, but typically will operate for much longer.
EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.
PLB
PLBs (Personal Locator Beacon(s)) are basically EPIRBs in short pants. Smaller and lighter than EPIRBs, they are typically less expensive as well. The broadcast at the same power as EPIRBs (5.0 watts) but have half the battery life (24 hours minimum vs 48 hours with an EPIRB). As with EPIRBs, they will typically operate much longer than the minimum specified.
Similar to EPIRBs, they must be registered with a national authority and have no operating cost beyond periodic battery replacement.
PLBs, like EPIRBs must have the battery replaced after use, they are good for a single activation per battery.
SEND
SENDs (Satellite Emergency Notification Device(s)) are devices like the InReach, InReach Mini, Garmin InReach Messenger, Zoleo, Spot, Spot X, Yellowbrick, ACR Bivy Stick, Motorola Defy Satellite Link and so on.
These use various commercial satellites or commercial satellite constellations and allow emergency ‘send help’ communications, typically with a dedicated SOS button. They also typically allow two-way communications, like a text or SMS on your phone (some allow this in a self-contained method, some require tethering with a smartphone or tablet). Most operate on the Iridium Satellite Network, which is generally considered to be of the highest quality and offers global coverage. Some use other networks like Globalstar, which does not offer global coverage. They typically operate at about 1.5 watts of transmit power.
Most use the IERCC (International Emergency Response Coordination Center) as their emergency response partner ( WWW.IERCC.COM ). Spot uses Overwatch Rescue ( WWW.OVERWATCHXRESCUE.COM ).
When you press ‘SOS’ on the device, it sends a message via the satellite or satellite constellation to the emergency response partner and they act in a way like the EPIRB response mechanism above, but they call/text you back (if your device allows) as well as calling your emergency contacts.
If the device allows you to send and receive messages you can also initiate a two-way conversation with a shoreside contact for a serious but not life-threatening situation, such as an engine or medical problem.
Most SENDs also support the sending of ‘breadcrumb’ trails while cruising. This is useful to allow shoreside contacts to follow you and leaves a record of your journey should you ‘go dark’ in an emergency that incapacitates you and your crew such that you are unable to activate any of your devices, giving search and rescue teams a starting place to look for you.
Each of these devices, being commercial, requires a subscription. Costs vary.
SENDs are rechargeable and can be used again and again. Battery life varies between units.
There is a good comparative review of many units at ( https://www.treelinereview.com/gearreviews/best-personal-locator-beacons )
DSC Distress Calls
Marine radios (VHF and MF/SSB) can send a DSC (Digital Selective Calling) alert, usually by pressing a red button on the radio. The button usually must be held down for more than 3 seconds to activate it (this to limit the chance of false alerts). This sends a GPS position if your radio contains or is connected to a GPS, plus your MMSI (Marine Mobile Service Identity).
VHF is monitored for these alerts worldwide (withing coverage limits), but coverage via MF/SSB is spotty. (There are propagation issues, and some rescue authorities no longer monitor the frequency. The USCG stopped monitoring the 2182Hz rescue frequency in 2013.)
VHF DSC alerts will be picked up by other vessels within radio range.
This is cost-free.
How do you contact Search and Rescue directly wherever you are?
Each country has SEARCH AND RESCUE NUMBERS. These can be found on the Ocean Posse website for each area we operate in:
https://oceanposse.com/aruba/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/azores/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/bahamas/#emergencies
etc
https://oceanposse.com/italy/#emergencies
https://oceanposse.com/mexico/#emergencies
Ocean Posse members can substitute the country you are in to get to the right numbers
What about Cell Phone Satellite Communications?
Some newer cell phones from Apple or Google/Pixel have limited SOS satellite connectivity, and Samsung has announced forthcoming satellite capability. Somewhat klugey, they require manual alignment of the device and use the GlobalStar network. Not all devices have the feature, and some are limited by the carrier. The geographic coverage is quite limited. These should be considered back-ups until the technology becomes more mature.
What should you do to get ready for an emergency?
Select and install your chosen devices and set them up appropriately.
For EPIRBs and PLBs, that means registering them with the appropriate national authorities and mounting their storage brackets in suitable locations. Each device has a testing schedule and protocol, so add reminders to your calendar to ensure you keep up with the schedule.
For SEND devices, ensure you have the appropriate subscription in place and the emergency contacts are registered, and the appropriate contacts are in the device’s address book or contact list. If the device tethers with a smart phone or other device, ensure the appropriate software is installed and up to date, and the tethering connection(s) have been tested. Having the tethering connection enabled on multiple devices adds redundancy. Most send devices get firmware updates from the manufacturer, so find out how your device updates and schedule a check every 90 days or so to ensure you’re up to date. Ensure you have a charging/battery replacement protocol in place so that the device is always charged up or, if it has replaceable batteries, you have spares on hand.
For DSC Alerts, make sure your radio(s) have your MMSI programmed in and have access to a reliable GPS signal, and that the radio(s) have a first-class antenna connection (testing with an SWR meter is the best way to ensure this).
Once the hardware and software are established, train your crew in the use of these devices and make sure they know how and when to use them. Preparing a ‘Cheat Sheet’ of simple instructions that can be posted in a handy spot ensures they are not falling back on memory in an emergency.
You have an emergency, what should you do?
If you are faced with a life-threatening situation or there is an imminent threat of danger such as loss of life, potential loss of life, loss of the vessel, potential loss of the vessel, sinking, fire, loss of the rig, or other serious emergency you should activate all of your emergency communications all at once. If you have all three, use the EPIRB, SEND and DSC alert all at the same time.
- The EPIRB will get SAR resources mobilized rapidly on a nation-to-nation basis. It is hands down the most reliable distress signaling mechanism.
- The SEND will typically allow two-way communication on the nature of the emergency and what aid is required.
- The VHF DSC Alert will summon any nearby vessels to your aid.
If you are faced with a potential life-threatening situation or there is the potential for an imminent threat of danger to develop, you should initiate a two-way communication with a shoreside contact to seek advice and/or advise them of the situation (ideally with one of the emergency contacts for your EPIRB or SEND). This could be via any means available, Cell Phone, Starlink (email, teleconference, etc.), SEND, or whatever works. Nearby vessels should be alerted via a normal VHF radio call. This allows them to be aware of what’s going on and be ready to scale up response appropriately as the situation demands.
Posse Perk
Ocean Posse members have access to additional help from other Posse members who may be nearby and from Posse HQ. Members can send a message on the Posse line Ap to reach out for nearby vessels. The Posse Team has assisted in rescue coordination and has connections in many regions with search and rescue and other resources to assist if required. Contact Dietmar at dietmar@oceanposse.com or text him at ( +1 (702) 861-9823 ) to set the team in motion!
MANTA RAYS MAJESTIC & MYSTERIOUS
MANTA RAYS : Majestic and Mysterious
Manta Rays are among the most majestic gentle giants in tropical and sub tropical oceans of the world. Seeing them swim under water is a magical sight to behold; with their mouths wide open, manta rays silently move through the water in a slow, effortless, gliding motion, feeding on the smallest of living creatures, plankton, that drift in the ocean currents. Like many species of sharks, mantas are in constant motion to keep water flowing over their gills to breathe. Additionally, mantas are cartilaginous fish meaning their skeleton is made of cartilage like our ears and noses.
There are two species of Manta Rays: the Reef Manta (Mobula alfredi) and the Oceanic Manta (Mobula birostris). No matter the species of manta, With their wings outstretched they dwarf all but large sharks or whales. The reef mantas wings span up to 5 meters while the oceanic mantas wings span up to 7 meters and can weigh up to 2 tons. Manta Rays have the largest brain to body ratio of all living fish and are known to display high levels of intelligence, have long-term memory, and are able to map their environment using sights and smells. The markings on their underside are their unique 'fingerprint'. Much like the marking on the underside of a humpbacks tail, the star-like pattern of whale sharks, and the whisker spots of lions, there are no two exactly alike and these creatures can be identified by their markings that make them unique.
As seen in this photo above there is a mutualism, or mutually beneficial relationship, between mantas and various small hitchhiker fish like remoras. The Remora clings onto the Manta Ray for protection, transportation and scraps from the Manta Rays meals. The Remora benefits the Manta Ray by cleaning it’s skin of bacteria and parasites keeping Mantas healthy. Manta Rays can also be found at 'Cleaning Stations' (or healthy coral patches) sometimes circling close by for up to an hour before moving in for a cleaning and then staying on for hours getting cleaned. In this case the mantas have a symbiotic relationship with cleaner fish (like the cleaner wrasse fish and the scarlet cleaner shrimp). These small fish and crustaceans swim around the larger animals and inside their mouths to eat the parasites, bacteria, and dead skin cells from their bodies. One animal is getting fed while the other is getting cleaned. It's a win-win! Manta Rays will often return to cleaning stations they 'know'.
Manta rays live up to 50 years. The female manta becomes sexually mature a bit later than the male: round 8-10 years of age. Manta rays are ovoviviparous meaning that after fertilization the offspring grows inside an egg (like a bird...but WAIT...there's more)...which the female manta carries inside of her during the pregnancy and give birth to a live fully independent manta ray (live birth like a mammal?!). Mantas give birth to 1-2 manta every 2-5 years. Many details are still a mystery as no one has ever documented seeing a live birth in the wild.
Perhaps because of their size, their grace, their omnipresence in the oceans Manta Rays, and many other characteristics, manta rays have found their way into the art and mythology of many cultures around the world. In Polynesian mythology, for instance, the manta ray is believed to be the guardian of the ocean and a symbol of knowledge and wisdom. In ancient Greek mythology, they were believed to be messengers of the sea god, Poseidon. In ancient Hindu mythology, manta rays are believed to be the manifestation of Lord Vishnu, the creator of the universe. In Japan, manta rays are often associated with the god of the sea, believed to protect sailors and fishermen from danger and provide them good fortune. Interestingly, they are universally seen as protectors and not aggressors, creators not destroyers.
Sadly, as much as manta rays are widely admired to revered their existence is threatened in various ways. Being pelagic, they cross 'borders' constantly and live in a warming ocean that is thereby struggling with habitat loss and teaming with industrialized fishing techniques that do not take care to avoid them (mantas are often 'bycatch' and can die due to suffocation as a result of entanglement.). In some places mantas are specifically sought out for food and bait (for instance in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico) and in the western south Pacific mantas are harvested for their gill plates that are used in Asian Medicine. It is worth noting that in Indonesia, Peru, and the Philippines there now national laws in place to protect manta rays.
Still, in order to protect animals, we need to understand them. Efforts are being made to understand manta distribution, mating, and ecology better to help them. However, Scientific efforts to understand Mantas formally began rather recently around 2008.
According to Mantatrust.org :
Manta rays often undertake seasonal migrations, travelling tens, hundreds, and sometimes thousands of kilometers. This means that their habitat can encompass large areas, sometimes crossing national boundaries, where conservation management is often more challenging. Therefore, to effectively protect these animals, we must first understand what habitats they are using, when they are there, and what they are doing within it.
....It is often a sad fact of human nature that the more endangered a wild animal becomes, the greater our desire to possess or consume it. Diminishing stocks drive a lucrative trade (often illegal) to hunt down, trade in, and consume the dwindling populations of these endangered species.
Interestingly, again there is still so much mystery around mantas that citizen scientists are helping with these efforts. People can communicate directly with the scientists at Manta Trust to help supply information (pictures) to create a 'mantabase' about specific manta individuals to share where they are and begin to help map their health, habitats, and seasonal routes.
If you are a mariner, look out for this incredible species of fish. Maybe you can appreciate their majesty while unlocking some of their mystery.
NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES
⚠️ NIGHT PASSAGES AND BEST PRACTICES ⚠️
Captains and crew aboard cruising vessels are wise to be on constant alert day or night. Night Passages are inherently more dangerous than daytime passages due to a distinct change in how we see and what we do and do not see in the darkness. Passages made between sunset and sunrise have a particular set of best practices that are important to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Please review the following list and consider what you can do to make every night passage safe and thereby fun.
- Before the onset of darkness prep topsides. Make sure everything is well stowed or tied down. If sailing, choose a comfortable and prudent sail configuration.
- Consult all navigational charts along your planned course. Be sure to zoom in to look for any rocks or obstructions that may only be visible on a closer look. Additionally, navigating coastal and offshore waters along the Ocean Posse routes outside of US Waterways mariners will find places where the charts do not match up with the actual contour of the land and sea. Being aware of this as a fact is imperative to the safety of ones vessel and crew. Charts are not always GPS accurate. Use multiple sources of information like radar, OpenCPN, and Sat charts as an additional aid to navigation.
- Set a watch schedule and make sure that everyone on watch understands how to use navigational and safety equipment including AIS.
- If entering or leaving an anchorage, harbor, or port be sure to give a wide berth to headlands.
- Run radar, throughout the night. If possible overlay your radar image over your electronic chart to verify both with one another. If there is a discrepancy, trust the radar over the electronic chart. The radar is also great for looking for squalls.
- Check for other marine traffic. If your vessel is equipped with and AIS make sure everyone on watch knows how to use it to see other vessels that may be in your range or on your course. Note: Not every vessel on the ocean is equipped with AIS so this equipment, while an exceptional safety advancement, does not take the place of visually scanning the area for lights or shapes on the water.
- Know how to read navigational and ship lights at night. There are international rules on light color and placement aboard vessels of different sizes carrying different loads. The lights will show what part of the vessel is in view and the direction of travel.
- Objects at night have come up a lot faster.
Be aware, be cautious, be vigilant, and, most importantly,
be safe so you can enjoy all your sunrises and sunsets out at sea.
by Maurisa Descheemaeker, Ocean Posse editor
AZORES CREATES LARGEST MARINE PROTECTED AREA IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC
AZORES CREATES LARGEST
MARINE PROTECTED AREA
Cruising the Azores Just Got Better
The Azores, an archipelago situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, is a sailor’s paradise. Comprised of nine volcanic islands, underwater mountain ranges, and rich biodiversity on land and in the surrounding sea this autonomous region of Portuguese territory offers a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, rich culture, and ideal sailing conditions. For yachts and sailboats, cruising the Azores provides an opportunity to explore unspoiled nature, vibrant communities, and a wide array of maritime experiences. The islands are about 900 nautical miles west of mainland Portugal, making them accessible from both Europe and North America. Navigation in the Azores is generally straightforward, thanks to well-marked channels and reliable nautical charts. However, sailors should be prepared for variable weather conditions and the occasional challenge posed by the archipelago’s volcanic topography. The nine islands are divided into three groups: the Eastern Group (São Miguel and Santa Maria), the Central Group (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico, and Faial), and the Western Group (Flores and Corvo). Each group offers distinct attractions and cruising experiences.
Last year a global pact was adopted by the United Nations to protect 30% of the Earth's land and sea by 2030. This month, the a regional assembly of Portugal's Azures Islands took the leading step towards this goal by designating expansive marine protection which now represents the largest Marine Protected Area in the North Atlantic. The protection creates two areas: a fully protected area of sea marking it as a safe haven for biodiversity and natural resources, and a highly protected area of sea surrounding the islands. The distinction being that in the latter selective and light fishing is permitted.
World leaders are gathered this week in Columbia for the UN Biodiversity Conference COP16 and this recent announcement by the Azures will hopefully be an inspiration to other nations to make strides to protect their 30% of the earth's land and sea that they can to preserve the world's biodiversity. According to Oceanographic Magazine, "Marine Protected Areas are widely recognized as the most effective tool in the global effort to reverse biodiversity loss and build ocean resilience against climate change. The Azores leadership has been earmarked by commentators as ‘particularly inspiring’ given that only 2.8% of the world’s oceans are currently fully or highly protected.
A report issued by Greenpeace International earlier this week warns that at the current rate of development in ocean protection, the United Nations stands to miss its critical 2030 target by a full eight decades. This means the ambitions of the 30×30 target – at the current pace of success – won’t be realized until 2107."
José Manuel Bolieiro, president of the Regional Government of the Azores said, “The Azores has long been known for its unique ocean nature, and with this decision, we are driving the way forward to a productive, vibrant ocean. The sea is an integral part of our collective identity, being vital socially, culturally, and economically. We are committed to protect and recover our ocean to support a healthy blue economy. Our decision through a science-based and participatory process leading to the protection of 30% of our seas serves as an example that other regions must follow now to ensure the future health of the planet.”
The process by which the Regional Government of Azores achieved this protection may also be an example to other nations. This decision was not made by an authoritarian ruler at the expense of livelihoods and local sustainability. Rather the decision to create the largest marine protection area in North America was reached through "an extensive participatory process". This process included over 40 meetings with representatives from various sectors, including those within fishing, maritime transport, maritime tourism, and environmental non-governmental organizations.
“The result was the collaborative design of a network of marine protected areas that benefits people, nature, and the economy, based on the best available science in the region,” said representatives of the Azores.
Cruising the Azores with the new Marine Protected Area offers an unparalleled yachting and sailing adventure. The archipelago’s diverse landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and excellent sailing conditions make it a premier destination for sailors. Whether exploring the historical streets of Angra do Heroísmo, hiking the volcanic trails of Pico, or enjoying the serene beauty of Graciosa, the Azores provide a wealth of experiences for every sailor. Navigating these enchanting islands requires preparation and respect for the natural environment, but the rewards are well worth the effort. The Azores’ unique blend of maritime tradition, natural beauty, and welcoming communities ensure that every cruise is a memorable journey.
POSSE PERK: FREE PRINTABLE REFERENCE CHARTS
POSSE PERK: 🗺️ FREE PRINTABLE REFERENCE CHARTS
*Emergency Backup To Your Electronics*
Paper charts are an excellent navigational aid ESPECIALLY if electronics fail. An Ocean Posse Perk gives members access to printable charts along the main routes of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans.
Printable Charts are also available in the Atlantic and many European countries.
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PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
PASSAGE REPORT: MV HO'OKIPA IN THE BALTIC SEA
MV HO’OKIPA is cruising in the Baltic Sea. They keep record of their voyage and have shared with the Ocean Posse a part of their recent journey from Stockholm, Sweden to Kiel Germany with many stops along the way. Thank you Ho’okipa for this window into cruising in the Baltic Sea: the beauty, the oops'ies, the lessons and the realities along the way. Below is a screenshot of their track. To zoom in on their various spots follow this link.
MV HO’OKIPA writes:
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN TO KIEL, GERMANY
Sunday September 1st, 2024 From Stockholm we headed back out to the archipelago the way we came in and headed to an anchorage, Soviken. It’s 52 nm. It takes us 7 hrs. 10 min at 7.25 knots average speed. Location: 58 47 .603N 017 51.050E It’s a secluded anchorage with protection from the no. winds. The chart was confusing, and we almost went into an area thinking that was the anchorage. It was a shallow area and had we kept going it would have been terrible, rocks everywhere. Luckily, our instincts told us to drop anchor where we were in 24 ft. When in doubt don’t do it.
The next morning cruise forty miles to Harstena Flisjarden. Instead of going down the coast we are going to go across the bay (about 3.5 hours) where Norrkoping is and directly to these islands east of Valdemarsvik. Per usual, as we have come to learn, we must pass through a narrow shallow cut to get to the deeper bay and anchorage. 58 15 .659N 017 09. 491E Stunning place. In the summer, this place will have 50 boats. Thankfully, there are just 3 others now. It’s a big enough bay that we all have room and privacy. It felt like being on a lake in the Sierras with the pine trees and rock outcrops. We did notice jelly fish surrounding our boat, just like the previous anchorage. They appear to be ones that do not sting. Of course, with the cold-water temperature I am not going swimming in any case.
Choppy today with 2-3 ft swell. Had to find a protected anchorage. We opt for Mjödö around some islands along the mainland. Requires following the buoy system through the shallow waters. 40 nm takes 6 hrs. 34 min. average speed 6.13kts. 57 46.809N 016 41.586E It’s empty of course as the season is over. But clearly a summer camp area. We normally would spend more time at these anchorages and meander more. However, the season has ended and although the weather has been unusually nice, we must be in Malmö, Sweden Sept 19th where we have an appointment with Swedish Immigration to apply for a temporary resident permit. Plus, we need the transformer work done and the European rep must meet us and do the work before September 28th.
In the morning, we continued south about 40 nm to an anchorage in Tillingeo. It’s near a port and lies off a quaint suburban area. We anchor i20 feet in a small cove. 57 16 .833N 016 29 463E
Depart early to head south but the anchor caught on a buried cable. Had to spin the boat 360 degrees to detach. Was a little unnerving. Could have been a big problem. Of course, had we looked at the chart carefully we would have seen the symbol for a cable running right under where we anchored. Good lesson. That’s what that means. Don’t anchor near a cable as you may hook your anchor around it. Doink!
Heading to Kalmar, an old historic walled town on the coast. It’s 42.8 nm, 6 hours at 7kts. 56 39.614N 016 21.907E We get a slip for 2 nights (660 SEK. Or $33 a night) alongside the dock at the small marina near the center of old town with its cobblestone streets. It’s a quaint town, and the castle with its moat are walking distance from the marina.
We learn that the marina in Copenhagen cannot import the transformer and ensure that the VAT is waived. The European rep suggests we have the work done in Germany, where he’s from, and that we will not have to pay the VAT in Germany. On his advice we have the transformer shipped to Kiel, Germany and we will now head there for the installation.
Saturday September 7, 2024, We leave Kalmar. We decide to go all the way to Utklippan, a tiny island off Sweden. About 51nm. Tomorrow, we think we will head to Bornholm Island which is part of Denmark and stay there until the rough weather heading this way passes. Then we will press on to the German coast. Utklippan is just a rock posing as an islet. You can walk around it in minutes except when the tiny harbor is in the way. There is a very narrow walled entrance (100ft wide) to the outer small harbor and then a slit into the inner harbor which is even smaller. Very intimidating. We must tie up along the cement dock which is high. The cleats are big bollards. It’s windy but sheltered. 55 57 .284N 015 42.218E
Weather is moving in so in the morning we make straight for Borlholm Island and the town of Hasle on the west coast. 55 11.211N 014 42.209E It’s 60.58nm and takes 9 hr. 4 min. at 6.68 kts average speed. This Danish island is in the Baltic Sea southeast of Sweden north of Germany. There is a small marina at Hasle, a fishing town that was once famous for its smoked fish houses. We can pay for the slip using a credit card at the machine by the Kiosk. $62 a night. There are a few other boats and a sauna across from the marina. We can easily walk to town. We stayed 4 nights to wait for a mild weather window to do the overnight passage to Kiel. The island is beautiful countryside with a few small towns. We get the motorcycle down and explore. Tour a small glass blowing factory and artisan studio, dine at a traditional old fish smoke house, visit the main town of Ronne, and walked around its old cobblestone streets, and admire the old Lutheran Church with a stain glass window over the alter featuring a fishing boat.
Thursday Sept 12, 2024. The forecast was for 3-foot seas and winds to 14 knots with gusts 18. The problem was swell wind was on our nose. And the swell period was 3-4 seconds. Not great at all. Changed course to get a smoother ride and it was a 2-hour delay. The entire day was like this. I felt like we were not making headway. in the early afternoon, the autopilot went off. “Drive Stopped” error. Not good. While I was steering the boat, C went to trouble shoot and checked all the connections. Nothing. We have Starlink SAT connection so checked online and on a Raymarine Forum a tech said sometimes you can tap on the device with a mallet and get the sensor (?) brushes unstuck. Charles tried it and it worked!!! Lots of cargo ships, tankers and cruise liners are out. This is a major throughfare. Wind farms dot the coasts too. When it’s dark lights are everywhere from various ships, buoys, lighthouses. Took two-hour shifts at the helm. We had calm seas all night for which we were grateful.
We reached the start of the passage that takes us between Fehmarn Island and the main coast of Germany. Still not light enough to see but the Flir infrared camera helps, and the chart is spot on. We slow down to let the morning light pick up. Perfect timing. After passing the first set of buoys we could start to see the outlines of the green and red buoys that were not lit. The buoys are only spaced 350 feet apart. No other vessels. Going under bridges is fun. As soon as we got out of the gap the wind and swell picked up. Nice and choppy again but at least it’s not right on the nose. Spend the next couple of hours getting to the outskirts of Kiel and our Marina Rajhe. But first we had to avoid the German military area. I just happened to zoom in on the chart to see what all the dotted lines meant. It’s a danger zone with active military shooting exercises. We had to circle around it instead of a straight shot across the bay to the inlet that leads to the canal and the city of Kiel. Took an extra hour or so. Lots of sailboats and ships coming and going. Marina Rajhe is a mile west of the canal entrance which is a mile west of Kiel. We made it into the marina at 1300. 54 23.124N 010 09.979E
MV HO'OKIPA 🇺🇸 Lisa & Chuck - Selene 43'
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR ADVENTURES ON THE WATER IN THE BALTIC SEA!!
POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS
POSSE PERK: WEEKLY LIVE CALLS WITH LOCAL WEATHER REPORTS
☎️ Free Weekly live calls on Mondays via dedicated LINE.me group
The Ocean Posse has weekly, live, in-season calls dedicated to five different regions where posse members are cruising:
- The Pacific Americas Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The Caribbean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The Atlantic Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The Mediterranean Route (Beginning October 28 through June)
- The South Pacific Route (In process now ending November 4th)
During the Weekly calls members join in to:
- Share any emergency or emergency relay needed
- update one another on location, any issues they may be having, or fun stuff they are doing
- Receive weather report from Captain Dietmar
- Questions people have for one another.
This weekly communication is a a little bit like a net and fulfills all the same functions.
THINKING BACK ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY
MARYLAND MY MARYLAND
THINKING BACK ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY
By Mike Descheemaeker, captain aboard the goodship SV WHIRLWIND
I moved to Washington State over 20 years ago and when people ask, "is their anything you miss about back east?" I have one simple answer: the Chesapeake Bay. The Chesapeake Bay was formed by the southern extent of the polar ice cap depressing the ground. The mighty Susquehanna River and the lesser rivers dredged the rest over a long time. The Bay has been home to diverse and abundance of flora and fauna and the setting for so many stories in the founding of the United States of America. I grew up motorboating and sailing on the Bay from the age of nine until I graduated high school. Most of my mucking about was on the Elk River in the northern Bay but a few times a year we would cruise to Baltimore or Annapolis with stops along the way at Worton Creek or Fairlee Creek. At least once we went all the way down to Crisfield and really got to experience the magic of the Eastern Shore and the Bay.
The Eastern Shore is a place where time seems to stand still and older traditions are still alive. If you come in by water, especially if you come in by water...the magic is can be found. Stop and talk with a waterman and try to understand his mix of old English and southern draw combined; their dialect sounds old; it is very unique and difficult to understand if you speak modern day English. If you are lucky, maybe you can see the last of a working sailing fleet, like a Skipjack, the Maryland State Boat, dredging for oysters. In the 1800's Chesapeake Bay oysters were considered a white gold and people flocked to the bay to make their riches on this resource. As with many a gold rush, there was a fever mixed with greed, hard work, and turmoil. A range of harvesting techniques was followed by substantial depletion and attempts at regulation to preserve the stocks in the Bay. Maryland made it a law back in the 1900's that oysters could be harvested by dredge under sail or hand tongs. On a recent trip back to see my dad we stopped at Harris Crab House at the Kent Narrows for crab cakes and hush puppies. We asked the young waiter about the Skipjack fleet and he looked at me like I was speaking about a ghost he'd never seen. Fortunately, the old watermen unloading crabs at the dock knew. They said there was only one or two still working from Kent Island but the upkeep cost and lack of crew was making it difficult to operate. It’s not surprising and really amazing that these old sailing oyster dredges are still at it.
Another piece of bay magic: the Drake Tail work boat. This narrow, long, open motor boat has a small cuddy cabin and wheel house forward. These boats also date to the early 1900s and were used for going out to the oyster grounds. One or two guys with long tongs would lean out over the edge of the boat to work the bottom, usually 5-10 feet below, and tong up oysters. This was back breaking work. In the summer months lacking the letter 'r' oysters are not in season these same boats were used to run trot lines for the Blue Crab, also a local delicacy. Even today, looking around the docks up a backwater you can see an old classic workboat tied to the dock or better yet out working an oyster bar or running a trot line. Trot lines are long lines between two buoys with eel bait tied in with a clove hitch every 4-6 feet. When the trot line was loaded you dip the crabs with a wire net on a long handle. When it’s happening it’s happening fast and can be a dangerous thrill. The danger is in the jellyfish, which come up with the net and inevitably get flung about with the dip netting. When I was a kid, my neighbors ran a trot line and we got to go with them sometimes. They did not use a classic workboat to run their lines but a 16’ Jon boat trailered down to the middle eastern shore from our elk river home waters. The most memorable day for me was a great day when the crabs were coming fast. Well, when the crab are coming in fast the jelly fish are getting flung all over the place. In a quick moment amidst the bumper harvest, my friend, Billy, actually had a jelly fling right into his open mouth! Billy's day, Bill, ran the boat and always had a cooler of Busch beer and Mountain Dew to fuel the crew. In this instance, we kids had already drank all the Mountain Dew so Billy got to drink Busch beer for the rest of the day. Needless to say we were jealous but glad not to have chewed on a jelly.
Eventually crabbers moved up to crab pots which called for a bigger boat which gave rise to the now more common dead rise workboat. These workboats typically have a large cover over the open cockpit. The narrow beam was widened eventually a lot and the elegant drake tail was flattened out the beam carried aft. These boats were first built in wood and some of these are still around. Time marches on, designs and materials for fabrication have changed. In the case of old wooden crab boats: many have been replaced with fiberglass and single screws have been doubled which is handy for turning a boat into the slip. This video offers a glimpse at the history of workboats in the Chesapeake Bay: https://www.soundingsonline.com/news/chesapeake-working-girls
There are lots of fun traditions that live on and commemorate the ways of water life for those that live on the Chesapeake Bay. For example, the docking competition at Crisfield and Pocomoke city. If you feel like you are timid coming along side a dock check out a docking competition where captain and a crew member are judged and timed coming in hot turning and backing down into the slip. The timer stops when four lines are on the pilings. This is a place where paint and piling really get to know one another. Annual docking competitions happen in Pocomoke City in the end of August or in Crisfield in the beginning of September. A lot of boats, watermen, and water women come together to compete so this a great time to check out different styles of bay boats prideful water people.
A visit to the bottom of the eastern shore of Maryland in the end of summer or the beginning of fall is a great time to explore the tidal tributaries that make the bay so unique. The Pocomoke River is one of the most northern places where cypress trees grow in the United States. The Pokomoke River Canoe Company rents boats and provides a shuttle service. The River can be paddled from its headwaters all the way to the mouth at the bay. The Pokomoke River Canoe Company rents boats and provides a shuttle service for and small boat adventure meandering through a cypress forest lined creek. Because of it's long life of living in swamps, Cypress is extremely rot resistant and therefore ab important wood for boat and ship builders. The tannins from the trees dye the river waters a dark ice tea hue giving the water a mysterious and haunting look. This is prime wood duck habitat and their whistles can be heard often before they disappear bending and twisting in flight to screen themselves with the trees. Again, in my youth, I remember paddling along the lower Pocomoke one spring morning. I pulled into a wooded inlet and slipped quietly under some over hanging limbs on a point. Two river otters were playing on the bank a short distance up in the woods. When they saw me they bolted for the water. They shot down the bank right at me to dive into the water beside my canoe. The first one did this in style. The second one ran right into a tree needing a moment to shake off the daze before escaping in the tea colored waters. As one paddles out of the thick cypress forests the creek slowly widens and shifts from a meandering creek to a tidal river. The forest gets broken by sections of marsh grasses and reeds. A low bridge marks the town of Pokomoke City where you may have rented your craft.
Tidal tributaries are what make the Chesapeake Bay so unique. Rivers that are navigable ,especially with shoal draft vessels, have their starts in beautiful northern hardwood forests. Sassafras, beech, walnut, oaks, and white pines are some of the trees you might see on these wild waters. The Sassafras, Bohemia, Chester and other rivers on the bay give you an opportunity to see some truly spectacular landscapes slowly changing from forest to marsh. While draft and bridges will limit river exploration with the big boat, there are many dinghy adventures that can be taken once anchored in a sheltered cove.
Speaking of draft: the Chesapeake has lots of places to experience soft groundings as the Bay is known for it's mud bottom and shallow depths. It is always best to explore on a rising tide so the tide can assist with refloating. There are definitely some hard sandbars and oyster bars but a lot more mud shoals and shallows. Growing up on the Elk River gives me a different perspective of shallow. We used to go into some secret spots by running on plane in the Jon boat with the motor set to kick up and skid across mud flats and then drop into deep water on the other side motoring on. I wouldn’t try that in the big boat!
Mariners who love history will find much to explore. On the head of Elk in the Scotland Marsh Trojan Yachts were built not far from Fort Defiance. Fort Defiance is where there was a small gun emplacement visited by George Washington as he escaped from the British and headed south. The Chesapeake has been used by others to escape as it was a main artery of the Underground Railroad, it’s marshes and wooded tributaries excellent for escaping to the north. Both the Elk River and the Susquehanna flow from the hills of Pennsylvania the Susquehanna actually coming from New York.. This of course was a major route for indigenous communities to move from the north and south trading frequently occurring between the northern woodland tribes and the tidal tribes of the Chesapeake.
As a mariner, an outdoor adventurer, and history enthusiast, the Chesapeake Bay stole my heart at a young age. I look forward to getting back there someday. Hopefully, the magic lives on!